In detail: do-it-yourself catalyst repair kia seed from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
The cost of removing catalysts on the Kia Ceed 1.6i:
with mechanical trompe l'oeil - 8500 rubles.
with software shutdown - 10,500 rubles.
Time at work - 5:00.
For all questions and to make an appointment for repairs: +7 495 9759163
We were contacted by the owner of a gasoline Kia Ceed with a 1.6 liter engine with a suspicion of a catalyst malfunction. Diagnostics confirmed the fears and revealed the P0420 code - catalyst ineffective operation.
What is a catalyst on a car.
The catalytic converter is a ceramic or metal honeycomb with a special coating that reduces the level of toxicity of emissions. Hazardous emissions that have not been burned out in the engine fall on the hot spraying on the catalyst and burn out.
How and for what reason catalysts on the Kia Ceed 1.6i can fail.
There are two options for catalyst breakdown:
– Catalyst efficiency decreases due to the gradual and eventually complete burnout of the special spraying. This can happen from long-term operation of the car (high mileage), from poor-quality fuel and from engine malfunction (wrong mixture that burns out the deposition in the catalyst)
– Physical destruction of the catalyst. Poor quality fuel, faulty engine, increased oil consumption.
What are the possible symptoms of a catalyst breakdown on Kia Ceed 1,6i.
– increased fuel consumption
– error indication on the dashboard (check engine, breakdown message)
– loss of power
Like most of the car owners who came to us to repair the catalysts, the Kia owner chose to physically remove the catalysts and replace them with flame arresters. At the start of work, the vehicle's mileage was 110,980 km.
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Video (click to play). |
Under the hood is a 1.6-liter gasoline engine.
The catalyst is located as close as possible to the engine at the beginning of the exhaust system in the exhaust manifold. To work on removing the catalyst, it is required to dismantle part of the exhaust from the car. Part of the exhaust system of the Kia Sid 1.6 is removed from the car. The catalyst housing is open.
After removing the ceramic honeycomb of the catalyst on the Kia Ceed 1.6i, we install stainless steel flame arresters. Since the flame arresters have a double wall with perforation and dense metal packing, they will remove heat and sound stress.
After installing flame arresters in the catalytic converter housings, the housings are welded and part of the exhaust system is returned back to the vehicle.
There are two options for eliminating errors when removing the catalyst on the Kia Ceed 1,6i:
- installation of mechanical trompe l'oeil with a mini-catalyst
- software deactivation of catalyst monitoring (deactivation of the oxygen sensor - lambda)
The method with mechanical blende is cheaper, but over time, like the catalyst, the blende can fail. Software shutdown fixes the problem forever. On this car, the oxygen sensor (lambda probe), which is responsible for monitoring the catalyst, has been disabled by software. This operation is sometimes referred to as “Euro2 firmware”.
The control diagnostics of the car and the work on removing the catalysts on the Kia Ceed 1,6i have been completed.
Would you like to solve a problem with a catalytic converter on your car? Contact our company and you will forget about this breakdown forever.
The cost of removing the catalyst with replacement with a flame arrester for Kia Sid 1.6 gasoline:
with mechanical trompe l'oeil - 8500 rubles.
with software shutdown - 10,500 rubles.
Time at work - 5:00.
For all questions and to make an appointment for repairs: +7 495 9759163
If there was a diagnostics that showed that the catalyst was clogged and the resistance to the passage of exhaust gases increased significantly, then the catalyst needs to be flushed. If flushing is not possible (in case of mechanical damage), then the catalyst will have to be replaced, if the replacement of the catalyst is not economically feasible, the catalyst will have to be removed.
Most modern cars are equipped with two converters: primary and preliminary.
Theoretically, catalytic converters are harmful for the engine, since the resistance of the exhaust tract increases significantly, moreover, in order to maintain the required catalyst temperature in some modes, it becomes necessary to enrich the mixture.
As a result, this leads to a noticeable decrease in the characteristics of the engine in terms of fuel consumption and power. But sometimes, simply removing the catalyst can make matters worse, as the exhaust aftertreatment system on most vehicles is tightly coupled to the engine management system. There is a possibility that the engine will work in emergency mode (CHECK ENGINE), which will undoubtedly lead to power limitation, as well as increased fuel consumption.
In the event that you nevertheless decide to remove the catalyst, then you first need to find out about the likely consequences and methods that will help to get around them. It is advisable to talk with the owners of the same cars (there are a huge number of clubs of car lovers of a certain brand on the Internet).
In general, in the case indicated in the diagram, the first oxygen sensor does not monitor the state of the catalysts, the removal of the latter will not affect its readings, the second temperature sensor will have to be deceived, for this we install a screwdriver under the sensor, we do this in order for the sensor readings without catalyst were equal or approximate to those with the installed catalyst. If the second sensor is also a lambda, you need to be more careful, since after removing the catalyst, it will most likely require a flashing of the engine control unit (in some cases, a correction can be made).
In the case shown in the diagram, the readings of the sensors are influenced by the state of the pre-catalyst. Thus, it would be more correct to remove the main catalyst and rinse the preliminary one. As a result, we get the minimum resistance of the exhaust tract, these changes will not have any effect on the engine management system, but when the screw is screwed in, the readings of the exhaust gas temperature sensor will be erroneous and this is not good. But this is all theory, but in practice it is necessary to take into account the state of the catalyst honeycomb.
We draw up a work plan - we flush the preliminary catalyst and remove the main one, so you can start.
First you need to remove the exhaust manifold, the pre-catalytic converter is integrated in it:
Honeycombs are long, but rather thin channels, so we diagnose their condition carefully in the light, it is advisable to use a small but bright enough light source, the voltage of which does not exceed 12V (we observe safety rules).
The condition of the cells is almost ideal for a run of 200 thousand km.
When checked for light, a small defect was found, it does not pose any danger and harm:
Flushing is carried out in the event that there is no mechanical damage (these include subsidence, burnout, etc.), the presence of deposits that significantly reduce the flow area. The honeycomb must be thoroughly blown with a spray for carburetors.
If there are a lot of deposits, then after purging with a spray, the catalyst can be soaked overnight in a container with diesel fuel. Then repeat the purge. Do not forget about the exhaust gas recirculation channel (another pod of environmentalists):
If you nevertheless removed the pre-catalyst, then the channel will have to be thoroughly rinsed, since the crumb formed during removal can get into the inlet, and from there into the cylinders (it is easy to guess that the cylinder mirror will not be slightly damaged).
All operations that are carried out with the main catalyst are similar to those described for the pre-catalyst.
Next, we begin the assembly, you need to assemble in the reverse order, the gaskets should be new or very well cleaned old ones, we assemble carefully, do not forget anything.
In my case, it was enough to unscrew the two nuts securing the discharge pipe, as well as bend the route after the neutralizer to the side.
Surprisingly, the Japanese catalyst, after 200 thousand kilometers, is still full of strength.
Of course, a pitifully expensive catalyst, but it needs to be pierced, so we will make the engine breathe easier. It is very easy to punch the honeycomb of the catalyst with a hammer drill with a 23 mm winder drill.
I did not completely remove the catalyst honeycomb, I punched two holes, the excess was removed.
The purpose of only partial removal of the catalyst is simple - the honeycombs that remain around the walls will reduce resonance vibrations, and the punched hole will be enough to get rid of the increased resistance to the passage of exhaust gases in the area of the catalyst.
After removing the honeycombs, we remove their debris from the catalyst barrel. To do this, you need to start the car and gas well until the dust from the ceramics stops flowing. Then we put the exhaust pipe in place and enjoy the result.
The advantages of partial removal of the catalyst are that the level of mind is similar to the stock one, and by the same token I got rid of the rattling in the area of the catalyst barrel.
That's all, as you noticed, removing the catalyst will not present any difficulty. In the service, they tried to dissolve me into cutting the catalyst, cleaning and welding the body back. Accordingly, they would pay the price for "such a complicated" one, and besides, they would have bent down the corresponding useless work.
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I saw that on the drive and a couple of other forums this topic is periodically discussed (on the drive I have been constantly stumbling upon similar topics), but I climbed here and did not find anything like that, so I decided to make a separate topic and collect the opinions of people who have been driving cee for a long time d JD.
As far as I could understand in cee'd jd there is a certain problem with the catalyst, the warranty for which from the manufacturer is only 1000 km, the problem is that the honeycombs in it crumble, melt or somehow deform and get into the engine, which leads to the death of the carriage and its subsequent costly repair.
As the main option for preventive elimination of the problem, pstitching for Euro 2 (or saw an option with uinstallation of a trick on one of the LZ sensors) and installation flame arrester... As a solution already with a dead carcass - the purchase of a contract engine.
And now why I created this topic, my carriage is 11 months and 1 week, mileage
18700 and it seems that I did not encounter knocks in the engine, loss of power, etc. (pah-pah),
- What are the options other than the above for preventive protection?
- What to do with the filled up gasoline (as I understood the main reason for the breakdown is low-quality fuel)?
- Is it possible to fix and eliminate this problem through the CMR without spending personal funds?
- Installing a flame arrester without firmware for Euro 2 with the installation of a blende:
- How does it affect the operation of engine systems and communication with OD during maintenance?
- Does its setting affect cee'd jd's compliance with EU environmental regulations?
- And what about the exhaust noise?
- How much does the new catalyst cost and are there any “more enhanced” analogs or what?
I ask because I do not understand at all how this can arise, I see posts with such a problem only within the framework of reports on the operation of cee’d jd.I didn’t hear about such problems when I drove a 1998 Mazda with a standard catalyst, I also didn’t hear about such problems from friends who drive other cars of other brands.
Is there such a problem (just such a massive one) on other Kia / Hyundai cars?
A new catalytic converter costs about 50,000 rubles. I do not advise you to put obmak, the car will sometimes be blunt. you only need to sew (CHIP). In addition to the flame, you can put SPIDER 4-2-1 MG RACE.
At the expense of the guarantee in the CMR, then there is fifty fifty. Someone changes everything under warranty, but someone does not. There are no other kataliks, and the concept of "more reinforced" is not appropriate here. The fact is that our catalyst is too close to the engine, therefore, with poor fuel and not quite the right oil, it quickly becomes dirty, burns out and collapses. After that, its particles enter the engine when it is started.
There is already a similar topic -You are welcome Sign in or Register now to see hidden text
... When there is time, I will edit it, collecting all ifna from all forums, groups in VK, drive2, etc.
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ilja1984 20 Nov 2015
This topic is also interesting. Is there such a problem on 1.4 engines? ... On forums and reports I saw only 1.6.
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psionic88 20 Nov 2015
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vazdrich 21 Nov 2015
This means it is caused exclusively by the design feature of the car, hmm, hindsight.
you only need to sew (CHIP). In addition to the flame, you can put SPIDER 4-2-1 MG RACE.
It turns out two options for development:
1. to score, drive, refuel at proven gas stations (well, that is, an official, not a franchise, a brand), fill in AI95 and perhaps sometimes AI95 “improved” and not heat, but judging by the reviews, even 15 thousand and 90 thousand sowing trouble can overtake
2. make a CHIP, put Plamik or Spider 4-2-1
What confuses me in the second option. Immediately I will make a reservation, I am for compliance with the restrictions established by law, and also not a supporter of modifications to the final mechanism, equipment, etc., which has passed the appropriate certification and is approved for use on planet Earth, taking into account various norms, rules, etc., depending on the country of operation.
It turns out that by removing the catalyst, a specific car ceases to comply with the standards established for such devices, including environmental ones, the volume of CO2, etc.
So they won't be allowed to go to Europe on it? When passing the state maintenance, after 3 years from the release, (I do not know whether they measure it or not), it may not comply with Russian standards?
And the CHIP for EURO2 is a deterioration in the tolerance of the fuel for which the engine was originally designed, no? Consequently, its working resource is decreasing, and why under EURO 2? Indeed, at Russian gas stations (at least Moscow and the region, as regions with the largest fuel consumption), such fuel is not sold, at least officially.
Okay, the guarantee for the catalyst is 1000 km, but the engine, in any case, must be repaired / replaced, at the expense of OD, and at the same time they go to failure
Here the idea already comes into play that we undertake to ensure the normal operation of the engine for such a time / mileage, subject to all the rules (which are very difficult to observe and confirm performance), and also the fact that since the warranty has ended for one part, then for its behavior and the manufacturer is not responsible for the influence on another detail of the product - at least this is how I see the logic.
What is embarrassing is that no one really sued Kia (or reached an agreement in a pre-trial order through the CMR) and did not try to prove the initial design miscalculation, which may entail the impossibility of further operation of the sold product, including during the warranty period for other units.
We read the service book more carefully.
By battery - guarantee 6 months.
By audio-video - guarantee 36m / 60 tkm
On the catalyst - "claims are accepted 1000 km"
There is a difference? There is no catalyst warranty limitation. You are not making a claim to him, are you?
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psionic88 23 Nov 2015
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You can sue, as far as I know, someone even won the court, but spend time and nerves the car, and for all this time you will be left without a car. On this forum, there was also a person with such a problem, he promised to keep it up to date, and then disappeared.
Regarding OD, I openly asked them what would happen if I kicked out the wheelchair. They replied that the maximum would be to remove the exhaust system from the warranty, and the warranty on it is far from 5 years, as far as I remember. It is quite simple to determine the knocked-out catalyst even from the outside - the exhaust stinks sho scribe, and I pour gasoline mainly Lukoil AI-95. Smells, of course, “you can't sew it to business”, but if OD disassemble curiosity, it will be enough to unscrew the pipe from the collector and shine a flashlight inside. But in fact, most of our ODs are rare nesses and do not crawl into the bottle without a strong reason, a month ago I repaired a heated steering wheel, and I have cilia attached to the headlight and connected to the standard wiring with twists - they did not say anything, although they obviously climbed under the hood. The wire from the recorder was also ignored, although it is clearly not included in the cigarette lighter, but goes beyond the ceiling.
Yes, my wheelchair was knocked out and the engine was stitched, I did not install a flame arrester, the chip operator said that there was no use in him. The exhaust sound did not grow louder. Yes, now, in theory, they will not be allowed to enter Europe, and our inspection was a fiction before, and now even more so, rarely any insurance company sends a car for a real inspection, more often they just give insurance and that's it. Yes, it was possible not to touch anything, but somehow I didn't want to sit on a powder keg and wait - it would explode or not.
It is rather difficult to assess the state of the catalyst, for this it is necessary to remove it and somehow look inside from the side of the “pants”, because it is from that side that it is destroyed in the first place and it is from there that the ill-fated ceramic dust is sucked into the engine when it is destroyed. I am afraid that our ODs simply do not have such equipment, and the operation of removing and installing the collector is very laborious, they knocked me out for three or four hours, and the actual catalytic converter breaks out in 10 minutes, the rest of the time is installation and dismantling.
I did not quite understand how the Euro-2 firmware will affect the engine resource - this is nothing more than a version of the control program that does not use the second lambda probe, and the engine operation is still evaluated by the first lambda for any firmware. The Euro-2 firmware does not mean at all that now it is possible to fill the 76th gasoline or diesel fuel, the requirements for fuel do not change, if you fill in the frank ###### - the engine will be closed regardless of the firmware version.
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I did not quite understand how the Euro-2 firmware will affect the engine resource - this is nothing more than a version of the control program that does not use the second lambda probe, and the engine operation is still evaluated by the first lambda for any firmware. The Euro-2 firmware does not mean at all that now it is possible to fill the 76th gasoline or diesel fuel, the requirements for fuel do not change, if you fill in the frank ###### - the engine will be closed regardless of the firmware version.
Unfortunately, I am far from the principles of work of car parts as a plowman from programming complex computer programs.
Therefore, I decided to start this topic and find out what and how =)
It was just embarrassing that the car was initially “sharpened” under the requirements of environmental friendliness of EURO-5, it seems, and the removal of one part makes it necessary to flash the “brains” to the end of the EURO-2.
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Sharpening for Euro-5 consists mainly in the presence of a catalyst and in a special adaptation of the control program in order to reduce the amount of harmful emissions. If I'm not mistaken, one of the ways to reduce CO / CH is to make sure that when the gas is released, the speed decreases smoothly, and not abruptly.There are hundreds of such factors, and they are all taken into account by the firmware, and to assess many of these factors, lambda probes are used, in other words, oxygen sensors in the exhaust tract, one before the catalyst, the second after.
After knocking out the catalyst, it is necessary to somehow turn off the second lambda probe, otherwise the “Check engine” light will turn on because the readings of both probes will be the same. There are three options to trick the system:
1.mechanical snag is essentially a mini-catalyst, which is screwed into the place of the second lambda, and she herself is already screwed into this snag. Doesn't work on our machines.
2.Electronic snag - a small microcircuit that is connected to the wiring of the lambda probe and corrects its readings. Many of them do not work on our engines either, we have to select them.
3. Euro-2 firmware. The second lambda is turned off programmatically and, as a rule, the calculated fuel consumption tables are changed for better engine throttle response. Mine, after the firmware, began to pull better on the bottoms, it also became more fun during overtaking, the idle speed really became higher, I don't know why they did this, but it does not interfere with life at all. Gasoline consumption, if increased, is completely imperceptible.
The environment is affected not only by the engine, but also by the fuel. If you fill the Euro-5 engine with Euro-4 gasoline, which is still freely sold, no one will say for sure what will happen at the output. And in our country, Euro-4 and Euro-5 gasoline can easily be poured from one barrel, filled Euro-5 at Lukoil and Euro-4 at PTK, the exhaust stinks equally disgusting, the argument is certainly weak, but still. For the sake of experiment, it will be necessary to fill in the 92nd, there should be less additional chemistry in it.
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Mine, after the firmware, began to pull better on the bottoms, it also became more fun during overtaking, the idle speed really became higher, I don't know why they did this, but it does not interfere with life at all. Gasoline consumption, if increased, is completely imperceptible.
Can you tell me where you did such an operation, probably not yourself, but in some service? And how much did it cost then?
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So your guys from St. Petersburg and chipped, they came to us at the end of the summer.
Here is a positive (in favor of the buyer) judgment on the Katalik. many bukoffs.
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well, then a person's second cut in a row crumbled and fell under the 1000 km warranty plus a month of inactivity one hundred
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psionic88 18 Dec 2015
Yes, if at least 20-30 percent would go to court with this problem, then KIA MOTORS would definitely start a revocable campaign on KIA SID. I'm also wondering how things are with the cut on previous seed models. my friend had a 2008 seed, the cut worked fine, but now he sold it.
Post has been editedpsionic88: 18 December 2015 - 14:33
- decrease in engine power (deterioration of acceleration dynamics, decrease in maximum speed), coupled with increased fuel consumption
- Difficulty starting the internal combustion engine (it began to start longer)
- pungent poisonous odor from the exhaust system
- extraneous noises are heard from the catalyst (ringing, rattling)
- shows diagnostics with corresponding errors indicating ineffective operation
If there is any suspicion of improper work - come, we will conduct a free diagnosis. We will make the necessary repairs if necessary.
We offer the most reliable option - replacing the catalyst with a high-quality factory-made flame arrester (see figures) made of two-layer stainless steel with the installation of a controller for adjusting the readings of the lambda probe (blende) of our own production.
Rice. one
Rice. 2
Rice. 3There is a misconception that after removing the catalyst and replacing it with a flame arrester, the LED will work louder, no matter what flame arrester is installed.Flame arresters of the latest generation work as quietly as catalysts, and sometimes even quieter if two or three reflective, cooling and noise-absorbing chambers are made inside, and 2-3 types of packing are used to extinguish noise, temperature and pressure. The highest quality stuffing is made of stainless wire and Kevlar: it is not afraid of high temperatures and due to its strength it is not blown out. It absorbs noise three times better than basalt (the most common). Products with such a packing cool exhaust gases better than their counterparts, and serve 10 times longer.
Comment. We do not replace universal catalysts for Kia Ceed due to their inability to adapt to our gasoline, coupled with low quality performance by manufacturers for the sake of low prices (mainly China).
All of the above operations are performed for all generations of the model and versions intended for any country:
I: 1.4, 1.6, 2.0
and subsequent (unless an exception is specified).
Replacing the catalyst with a Kia Sid flame arrester with blende is a well-oiled procedure in our car service. Installing a catalyst instead of a flame arrester on a Kia Ceed will only take a couple of hours.
In order to cut out the catalyst on the Kia Sid and install a blended flame arrester instead, the specialists of our car service do the following:
- Diagnostics of the exhaust system of the Kia Ceed and inspection at the stand (especially the corrugations of the muffler and catalysts) (is free)
- Drawing up a list of works and a list of necessary spare parts (is free)
- Removal of Kia Sid catalyst
- Selection of a suitable flame arrester and trompe l'oeil according to the parameters of your Kia Sid (is free)
- Installation of a flame arrester with blende and the necessary elements of the exhaust system (mounts and fillers)
- Kia muffler tuning (optional)
- Firmware or re-flashing of the ECU for Euro-4 (EURO-4)
- Preparation of documents: certificates for spare parts and warranty coupons. Delivery of work.
You can save on the repair and replacement of the Kia catalyst. Read about this in the article:
With prolonged use on the roads of Moscow and the Moscow Region, the Kia exhaust system units can wear out greatly. Kia Ceed catalysts quickly deteriorate (clog and melt). In addition, certain damage to the internal structures of the catalytic converter (catalyst) is caused by driving on bumps, curbs and off-road, leading to the destruction of the ceramic honeycomb of the part.
We do not advise you to repair the catalyst on Kia yourself (with your own hands) without professional equipment.
This can be very dangerous for both you and your car.
- Replacing the Kia Sid catalyst and installing a new one - 2.000 ₽
- Remove the Kia Ceed catalyst and put a flash suppressor with blende - 2.000 ₽
- Flame arrester (spare part) - 2.000 ₽
- Mechanical snag - 1.000 ₽
- Electronic controller - 3.000 ₽
- Firmware and re-flashing (ECU) of the engine control unit - 3.000
Video (click to play). 8.000 ₽
- Repair or replacement of Kia Sid corrugation with spare parts (turnkey) - from 3.000 ₽
- Warranty for all works and spare parts - 3 years. Opening hours 2
In the SVS car service, we can professionally and quickly remove the catalyst on Kia Sid of any mileage and year of manufacture. We carry out complex repairs, diagnostics and maintenance of both Kia sedans:
- Ceed - Sid
- Cerato - Cerate
- Magentis - Magentis
- Optima - Optima
- Rio - Rio: more on the page - Replacing the Kia Rio catalyst with a flame arrester
So also SUVs and crossovers of the Kia brand:
- Sorento - Sorento
- Sportage - Sportage: details in the material Installing a flame arrester instead of a catalyst on the Kia Sportage
And other models. A complete list on the page Replacement and repair of catalysts Kia (Kia)
At your service: experienced auto mechanics and car mechanics, advanced exhaust system equipment and parts, consumables and transparent pricing!
Catalytic converter removal and flame arrestor installation on Kia
in our service it takes 2 - 3 hours.
We give a 3-year guarantee for all work and spare parts!
Do you want to forget about the problems with the dynamics and increased fuel consumption of your Kia Sid forever?
The main activity of our company is repair, installation, tuning and diagnostics of exhaust systems of imported passenger cars (foreign cars). The services of our service can also be used by owners of commercial vehicles - vans, micro - buses and small trucks. The main thing is to fit into the dimensions of our boxes! For example, a Mercedes Sprinter minibus easily passes through the gates of our car service.
The main difference and advantage of the SVS service center from similar companies in Moscow is our narrow specialization, which allows us to focus all efforts on improving the quality of repairs, to study all the nuances and features of the exhaust systems of Kia and cars of other brands.
The SVS car service network works in Moscow seven days a week!
I was the only one confused by 38t mileage ?! 1st body siid ok and where was it before 38t run?)
CAT guarantee - 1000 km of run
Max Karlych, I no longer remember what and why. apparently did not travel much
Tell Bordach to follow the safety precautions. Otherwise it will be the same as the catalyst
Catalyst hysteria among Sidovodov is gaining some truly unhealthy momentum. Only over the past week and only among those to whom I have subscribed, five knocked out a cat. A few more people, one way or another, wrote about it in the spirit that paneka-paneka, it's time to knock out kats, ahhh. eleven
Of the following topics, only in one case was there a hint of the need to replace the catalyst:
Immediately I remembered the Lancer club, where people massively knocked out catalytic blocks from the collectors at a picnic, literally. Yes, it was a glorious time. However, there were reasons for that.
The most adequate materials collected ParboiL in his note Goodbye catalyst and hello new! FAQ, but he's mostly about what to do. I would like to go from the other side: is it necessary to do something at all, why and why this is happening. Partially, the information will overlap with the mentioned article, which is natural. In short, let's go.General diagram of the catalyst device
Catalytic converters (for short, they are called catalysts, but this unit is correctly called that) began to be massively installed on cars about a quarter of a century ago. The device of the block itself has changed little since then: a cylinder made of metal or ceramic and having a honeycomb structure, on which the actual catalysts themselves are deposited - substances that accelerate the decomposition of any harmful substances, but do not participate in it themselves. The neutralizer is effective only when a certain temperature is reached, therefore, for its early warming up, on all modern cars, it is placed directly in the exhaust manifold (which is why this part is now called a catalyst manifold, a catalytic manifold, etc.). This is by no means a design feature of Korean motors, but a property of absolutely all engines from EURO-4 and above.Under ideal conditions, the catalyst block is virtually a perpetual component. its active layer is not wasted during operation. Why, then, did panic arise over these very blocs? The fact is that the neutralizer is quite fragile (especially the ceramic one, which is installed in the Sid outlet). He terribly does not like overheating (it is believed that ceramic blocks are designed for temperatures around 85C, metal - 1100C), sudden temperature changes (dip the heated exhaust into a puddle), shock and combustion of gasoline vapors in it. From such an impact, the neutralizer can crumble or melt. Substances that fall on the honeycomb surface (such as unburned oil, soot or lead from leaded gasoline) disable the catalyst: the active substance is isolated from the exhaust gases. A catalyst clogged with soot or a melted catalyst makes it difficult for the engine to work: the engine does not develop speed, in a peak case it can overheat.And also ceramic grains of scattered catalyst honeycombs can fly into it, which will ruin the surface of the cylinder walls.
Why is this happening? There are two versions. The first is as follows: “Exhaust gases can get into the valve overlap phase. In other words: when the piston has gone down (the inlet valve has just started to open), and the outlet has not closed yet. ” The second idea is closely related to the first, but it contains the idea that a decrease in the throughput of the honeycomb contributes to an increase in back pressure in the exhaust manifold, and this is precisely what "pushes" the ceramic chips into the cylinders.
Thus, there is a chance of catalyst particles entering the cylinders, but it is not too great and increases only with a clogged or melted catalyst.
Do I need to knock out the catalyst?
Now, how can you even understand that something is wrong with the catalyst? If it starts to create an obstacle in the way of the exhaust, the motor loses its dynamics. In critical cases, he also will not be able to gain momentum above, about 3 thousand. Few describe the exact symptoms (which again suggests that fear has large eyes and the problem is greatly exaggerated), however, the error clearly hints at the reduced efficiency of the catalyst p0421 - Warm Up Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1) - the efficiency of catalyst heating is below the threshold. The error can be considered by almost any scanner from ELM 327 to multibrand Delphi DS150e or Autocom. Alternatively, an error may occur P2096 - Post Catalytic Fuel Trim System Too Lean - fuel mixture correction / mixture formation error. Such errors are an alarming symptom, but not a 100% guarantee that the catalyst will die.In addition, you can evaluate the voltage data on the second oxygen sensor behind the catalytic converter. The ideal case is when it is a straight line. To do this, you need a simple scanner such as ELM 327, which costs mere pennies, and any program that can interpret data in the form of a graph. However, it is worth keeping in mind that, in the mind, such diagnostics should be confirmed by checking the exhaust gas with a gas analyzer. Because some engine ECU firmwares perceive an increase in the proportion of oxygen in the exhaust after gasolines with MTBE as a signal of insufficient catalyst efficiency.
In the absence of a gas analyzer, the second reinforced concrete-reliable method (which is somewhat more laborious and costs a little more than the version with ELM 327) is to assess the real state of the catalyst - to examine it with an endoscope by unscrewing the first lambda probe. The exemplary inspection of the catalyst was carried out, for example, richi8588... If everything is in order, it is pointless to knock out a working catalyst.
