DIY catalyst repair opel zafira

A catalyst is built into the exhaust system to purify the exhaust gases from the engine. When passing through catalysts, it purifies gases so that their harmful effects on the environment are less. But after a certain run of the car, it falls into disrepair and does not cope with its task. Then the catalyst needs to be diagnosed, after which it needs to be either repaired or replaced.

On the malfunction of this part on the Opel Zafira, you will be informed by a lit "Check Engine" light.

Typically, the catalyst works properly from 100 to 200 thousand km. But factors such as low-quality gasoline or high-quality, but with a lower octane number, accelerate the clogging of the honeycomb.

Therefore, when your "Check" lights up, there is no need to worry about the exorbitant replacement price. First you need to find out how much the catalyst is clogged. Most likely it can be cleaned.

The active surface of the catalyst is susceptible to the settling of soot and burnt oil, which creates deposits and build-ups, clogging it. But it can be removed with special means.

If the honeycomb is clogged, then the car will react to it like this:

1. The maximum speed of the vehicle will gradually begin to drop.

This process is stepwise. When you buy a new car, it accelerates to the maximum speed stated by the manufacturer. He usually does it quite easily. But after runs of 50, 100, 150 thousand km, the upper speed limit of your car decreases. This drop becomes very noticeable, especially on highways. This means that gases clog the honeycomb in the filter section.

It turns out a hard-to-pass plug of soot, into which the exhaust gases abut. They cannot exit through the muffler immediately and create increased pressure in the exhaust system, which interferes with the normal operation of the engine. Due to the already accumulated gases, new ones cannot completely leave the combustion chambers, and get into the work of the next piston cycles. This has a negative effect on the dynamic performance of the vehicle. When a problem with high pressure overtakes your car, the sensor installed in front of the catalytic converter signals the problem with the "Check Engine" light.

The car does not accelerate immediately. When you press the gas, the car starts to accelerate only after a few seconds. This is the second manifestation of a clogged filter in the catalyst. Higher pressure in the exhaust system also negatively affects the instant acceleration of the car, which is bad for maneuverability in the city.

1. Fuel consumption has increased.

When the filter section becomes clogged, it not only chokes the engine, lowering the vehicle's top speed and acceleration, but also increases fuel consumption. When the engine is running, a mixture of air and gasoline is “prepared” in each cylinder. If exhaust gas from previous cycles remains in the piston, then it mixes with air and gasoline, creating an ineffective mixture. It burns worse, and the engine produces less power. To maintain the dynamics of the car, you press on the gas harder. This increases the fuel consumption of the vehicle.

In addition to the problems already listed, the following may be added:

1. Walking idle engine speed. This may not be very noticeable at first, or it can even be attributed to something else. But finding out the reason for the walking speed, they find it in the catalyst.
2. Increased harshness of odor and soot deposits on the inner surface of the exhaust pipe. Usually, you can stand next to the exhaust and not feel any acrid smoke. You will not find soot on the pipe either.If you notice that the smoke coming out of the chimney has become visible, a pungent smell and soot deposits have appeared, then it's time to devote time to the catalyst.
3. The engine is not working properly. The computer corrects the supply of gasoline and air to the combustion chamber according to the readings of the sensors. Due to the fact that the catalyst is clogged, incorrect data is obtained, for which the computer cannot adjust the stable operation of the engine with maximum efficiency.

If you notice these problems, then it's time to go to the service station and do diagnostics. At the service station for the Opel Zafira catalyst, the following diagnostic options are possible:

• The catalyst will be removed to see what is wrong with it. If it clogs up, it will be cleaned or replaced. It all depends on the state of the honeycomb.
• If the honeycomb of the catalyst has melted and crumbled, then there is no point in restoring it. In this case, it is only changed.
• Checking the force of the exhaust gas pressure in the exhaust system. First, unscrew the sensor in front of the catalyst. Instead, a pressure gauge is inserted hermetically, which records the pressure. The engine is started, the exhaust gases fill the exhaust pipe. With a clogged catalyst, they create more pressure before moving on. This increased pressure is recorded by a pressure gauge. The mark on the manometer scale determines how much the catalyst is clogged and when it will have to be replaced.

For Opel Zafira, catalyst replacement should be carried out by professionals at specialized service stations.

There are several reasons to choose a car service over a “home” replacement:

• To do this, you will need a grinder and a welding machine, as well as skills in working with this equipment.
• It is necessary to cut off the old catalyst evenly and weld on the new one correctly. If the cut is uneven, then the new catalyst will not be able to expose and weld without gaps, due to which the catalyst will not work effectively.
• Need a car lift or a pit for repairs.

The replacement of the catalyst begins with the removal of its protection. Then the car is driven onto a lift.

In this position, the catalyst is cut with part of the exhaust system.

Next, a solid metal bracket is welded to the edges of the exhaust. It fixes different parts of the exhaust system in one position.

They do this so that the exhaust with a new welded-on catalyst has the same bends as before welding. Otherwise, the exhaust system will not be able to be installed on the standard mountings.

After that, the old filtering part is cut off with the help of a grinder, a new one is tried on in its place.

First, they fix it by grabbing it in several places. Then the joints are welded with a continuous seam.

Having welded the catalyst, the fixing bracket is cut off. They clean the metal at the welding points and apply a layer of paint so that the metal does not corrode.

If there was a diagnostics that showed that the catalyst was clogged and the resistance to the passage of exhaust gases increased significantly, then the catalyst needs to be flushed. If flushing is not possible (in case of mechanical damage), then the catalyst will have to be replaced, if the replacement of the catalyst is not economically feasible, the catalyst will have to be removed.

Most modern cars are equipped with two converters: primary and preliminary.

Theoretically, catalytic converters are harmful for the engine, since the resistance of the exhaust tract increases significantly, moreover, in order to maintain the required catalyst temperature in some modes, it becomes necessary to enrich the mixture.

As a result, this leads to a noticeable decrease in the characteristics of the engine in terms of fuel consumption and power. But sometimes, simply removing the catalyst can make matters worse, as the exhaust aftertreatment system on most vehicles is tightly coupled to the engine management system. There is a possibility that the engine will work in emergency mode (CHECK ENGINE), which will undoubtedly lead to power limitation, as well as increased fuel consumption.

In the event that you nevertheless decide to remove the catalyst, then you first need to find out about the likely consequences and methods that will help to get around them. It is advisable to talk with the owners of the same cars (there are a huge number of clubs of car lovers of a certain brand on the Internet).

In general, in the case indicated in the diagram, the first oxygen sensor does not monitor the state of the catalysts, the removal of the latter will not affect its readings, the second temperature sensor will have to be deceived, for this we install a screwdriver under the sensor, we do this in order for the sensor readings without catalyst were equal or approximate to those with the installed catalyst. If the second sensor is also a lambda, you need to be more careful, since after removing the catalyst, it will most likely require a flashing of the engine control unit (in some cases, a correction can be made).

In the case shown in the diagram, the readings of the sensors are influenced by the state of the pre-catalyst. Thus, it would be more correct to remove the main catalyst and rinse the preliminary one. As a result, we get the minimum resistance of the exhaust tract, these changes will not have any effect on the engine management system, but when the screw is screwed in, the readings of the exhaust gas temperature sensor will be erroneous and this is not good. But this is all theory, but in practice it is necessary to take into account the state of the catalyst honeycomb.

We draw up a work plan - we flush the preliminary catalyst and remove the main one, so you can start.

First you need to remove the exhaust manifold, the pre-catalytic converter is integrated in it:

Honeycombs are long, but rather thin channels, so we diagnose their condition carefully in the light, it is advisable to use a small but bright enough light source, the voltage of which does not exceed 12V (we observe safety rules).

The condition of the cells is almost ideal for a run of 200 thousand km.

When checked for light, a small defect was found, it does not pose any danger and harm:

Flushing is carried out in the event that there is no mechanical damage (these include subsidence, burnout, etc.), the presence of deposits that significantly reduce the flow area. The honeycomb must be thoroughly blown with a spray for carburetors.

If there are a lot of deposits, then after purging with a spray, the catalyst can be soaked overnight in a container with diesel fuel. Then repeat the purge. Do not forget about the exhaust gas recirculation channel (another pod of environmentalists):

If you nevertheless removed the pre-catalyst, then the channel will have to be thoroughly rinsed, since the crumb formed during removal can get into the inlet, and from there into the cylinders (it is easy to guess that the cylinder mirror will not be slightly damaged).

All operations that are carried out with the main catalyst are similar to those described for the pre-catalyst.

Next, we begin the assembly, you need to assemble in the reverse order, the gaskets should be new or very well cleaned old ones, we assemble carefully, do not forget anything.

In my case, it was enough to unscrew the two nuts securing the discharge pipe, as well as bend the route after the neutralizer to the side.

Surprisingly, the Japanese catalyst, after 200 thousand kilometers, is still full of strength.

Of course, a pitifully expensive catalyst, but it needs to be pierced, so we will make the engine breathe easier. It is very easy to punch the honeycomb of the catalyst with a hammer drill with a 23 mm winder drill.

I did not completely remove the catalyst honeycomb, I punched two holes, the excess was removed.

The purpose of only partial removal of the catalyst is simple - the honeycombs that remain around the walls will reduce resonance vibrations, and the punched hole will be enough to get rid of the increased resistance to the passage of exhaust gases in the area of ​​the catalyst.

After removing the honeycombs, we remove their debris from the catalyst barrel.To do this, you need to start the car and gas well until the dust from the ceramics stops flowing. Then we put the exhaust pipe in place and enjoy the result.

The advantages of partial removal of the catalyst are that the level of mind is similar to the stock one, and by the same token I got rid of the rattling in the area of ​​the catalyst barrel.

That's all, as you noticed, removing the catalyst will not present any difficulty. In the service, they tried to dissolve me into cutting the catalyst, cleaning and welding the body back. Accordingly, they would pay the price for "such a complicated" one, and besides, they would have bent down the corresponding useless work.

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• decrease in engine power (deterioration of acceleration dynamics, decrease in maximum speed), coupled with increased fuel consumption
• Difficulty starting the internal combustion engine (it began to start longer)
• pungent poisonous odor from the exhaust system
• extraneous noises are heard from the catalyst (ringing, rattling)
• shows diagnostics with corresponding errors indicating ineffective operation

If there is any suspicion of improper work - come, we will conduct a free diagnosis. We will make the necessary repairs if necessary.

We offer the most reliable option - replacing the catalyst with a high-quality factory-made flame arrester (see figures) made of two-layer stainless steel with the installation of a controller for adjusting the readings of the lambda probe (blende) of our own production.

Rice. one

Rice. 2

Rice. 3

There is a misconception that after removing the catalyst and replacing it with a flame arrester, Zafira will work louder, no matter what flame arrester is installed. Flame arresters of the latest generation work as quietly as catalysts, and sometimes even quieter if two or three reflective, cooling and noise-absorbing chambers are made inside, and 2-3 types of packing are used to extinguish noise, temperature and pressure. The highest quality stuffing is made of stainless wire and Kevlar: it is not afraid of high temperatures and due to its strength it is not blown out. It absorbs noise three times better than basalt (the most common). Products with such a packing cool exhaust gases better than their counterparts, and serve 10 times longer.

Comment. We are not replacing universal catalysts for Opel Zafira due to their unsuitability for our gasoline, coupled with low quality performance by manufacturers for the sake of a low price (mainly China).

Z16YNG X16XEL Z16XE X18XE1 Z18XE Z20LET Z20LER Z20LET Z22SE Z16XEP Z16XE1 Z16XER Z16XNT A16XNT Z18XER A18XER Z20LEL Z20LER Z20LEH Z22YH A14NEL A14NETXEL A16XNT A18

All of the above operations are performed for all generations of the model and versions intended for any country:

and subsequent (unless an exception is specified).

1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 - year of birth

Message Anton64sar »06 Feb 2016 10:38

Message Bullgaren 06 Feb 2016 11:04

Message poldrona »06 Feb 2016 11:06

Message Bullgaren »06 Feb 2016 11:06

Message Anton64sar »06 Feb 2016 11:27

Message drem »06 Feb 2016 11:37

Message Anton64sar »06 Feb 2016 11:42

Message Solovei4ik »06 Feb 2016 12:49

Message Bullgaren »06 Feb 2016 14:10

You have a strange approach to this whole business. What's the bulkhead, what's the catalyst. You'd better buy a gazelle for yourself, you can fix it like that.

either put the flamegas and the correct Euro-4 bank, or put a new cut.
Kat comes out cheaper.

You can still not put anything, ride with a fart pipe and calm down quickly a resonator with a glushak for 15 shk

Message Anton64sar »06 Feb 2016 14:58

yes, I don't drive for mistakes))) I only drive for banks))

Dispatched after 1 minute 50 seconds:
that's what I wanted to hear. then we put a flame extinguisher. banks are very sorry

Message FDutch »06 Feb 2016 18:14

Message drem 06 Feb 2016 19:24

Message Bullgaren »06 Feb 2016 22:05

Message Solovei4ik »06 Feb 2016 22:32

Message griandrej 06 Feb 2016 23:59

Message Glukan »08 Feb 2016 15:42

Message Dante89 »08 Feb 2016 18:04

Message sergei12126 »08 Feb 2016 20:53

Message Glukan »10 Feb 2016 11:34

Message Dante89 »10 Feb 2016 15:04

Message Glukan »16 Feb 2016 11:13

Message GeMult »21 Feb 2016 17:18

Message poldrona »21 Feb 2016 21:30

Message Bullgaren »22 Feb 2016 09:11

Message GeMult »22 Feb 2016 10:09

On any car model with a diesel engine, a catalyst and a particulate filter are installed in the exhaust system.

The latter is designed to retain particles of soot and other toxic compounds. During the operation of the car, the regeneration process is periodically activated. But like all other components of the car, it has a certain resource.

Particulate filter malfunctions on cars of this model can manifest themselves in different ways:

• uneven engine operation;
• the indicator lights up, indicating an error of the coarse filter malfunction;
• the consumption of oil and fuel is noticeably increased.

1. Poor fuel quality is one of the main reasons. When it burns, a large amount of soot is released, which clogs the holes in the ceramic filter insert.
2. Incomplete regeneration cycles. This happens during long-term operation of the car in urban conditions, when it is not possible to carry out a full-fledged filter regeneration cycle. Frequent attempts to burn through, on an insufficiently warmed up car, only exacerbate the problem.
3. Defective engine. Excess unburned fuel, together with exhaust gases, enter the filter and burn out in it, contributing to overheating or even causing a small explosion, which completely renders the ceramic insert of the filter unusable.
4. Malfunctions in the exhaust system. Incorrect operation of the oxygen sensor can cause this malfunction.
5. Short term car trips. In this case, incomplete self-healing cycles occur and the filter becomes clogged even more.

A diesel particulate filter that has failed can be replaced with a new one, but its cost is very high. In some cases, the DPF is flushed. This operation is only advisable if the inner insert is not melted or destroyed. But one cannot speak with certainty about the operating time of the coarse filter after washing, because due to the use of chemical additives, during filter cleaning, a violation of the chemical composition of the catalytic alloy covering the surface of the ceramic honeycomb occurs. The operating mode of the coarse filter is violated.

1. Increasing the power characteristics of the engine.
2. Reduced fuel consumption.
3. The problem with soot and other sensors will disappear.
4. The cost of completely removing a particulate filter is significantly lower than buying a new one.

The catalytic chamber on a gasoline-powered car will need to be replaced when it reaches its end of life.

There are several options for replacing the neutralization chamber.

It can be replaced with a new original exhaust system assembly or a universal catalytic converter can be installed that is suitable for this car model. But such repairs are very expensive. That is why, more often than not, car owners resort to installing a flame arrester in the standard place of the catalyst.

There are also such car owners who install a piece of pipe in the exhaust gas outlet system in place of the catalyst, it provides a forward flow of exhaust gases.

Experienced car service workers say that the installation of a new catalytic unit will not take much time, because its technology is not very complicated. Based on this, some car owners take on this work on their own, but this often leads to mistakes, because not everyone knows how the exhaust system works.

A flame arrester instead of a catalyst

Among a huge number of motorists, today it is popular to install a flame arrester in place of a faulty catalyst.

A flame arrester is installed instead of a faulty catalytic unit. Today you can buy flame arresters from well-known manufacturers who give a guarantee for their products.

Or you can make an individual flame arrester by ordering it from a car repair shop.

If your vehicle's engine starts to work somehow sluggishly, a burning smell appears in the cabin, gasoline consumption has increased significantly - this indicates a failure of the neutralization chamber. An urgent need to carry out computer diagnostics, it will refute or confirm the presence of a catalyst malfunction.

Environmental standards in Russia are significantly lower than in Europe. Therefore, cars without catalysts are allowed on the territory of our country. But completely removing the catalyst is not an easy task. To do this, you need not only to remove the converter, but also to install the oxygen sensor trick and reinstall the car ECU program.

Having completely removed the neutralizer chamber, a direct-flow system or direct-flow can be installed in its place. With such a solution to the problem with a faulty catalyst, it is necessary to install an oxygen controller trick and flashing the ECU.

The specialists of the auto repair shop will be able to make and install the forward flow.

Repairing a faulty unit means replacing a catalyst with an Opel Zafira B with a universal part or a flame arrester. The scope of repair work to replace the catalytic chamber includes the installation of a blende. They are electronic, universal and mechanical.

Installing a universal catalyst is much cheaper than installing an original part.

The pros are as follows:

• air pollution occurs to a lesser extent;
• the exhaust system is operating normally;
• no thick smoke comes out of the exhaust pipe.

The disadvantages are as follows:

• sensitivity to fuel quality;
• malfunctions in the ignition system may cause a malfunction.
• much more expensive than installing a flame arrester.

Installing a flame arrester is a common option among motorists. Significantly cheaper replacement option compared to installing an original or universal part.

The pros include the following:

• economic attractiveness of repair works.
• a noticeable increase in the power of the car's engine;
• you can pour gasoline of any quality.

• reducing the level of environmental friendliness of the car;
• the likelihood of smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe.