DIY dive coil repair

In detail: do-it-yourself dive coil repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Those malfunctions that can occur in fishing reels either completely disable the product, or interfere with the enjoyment of the fishing process, creating discomfort during operation. In this article, we will analyze the question of how to repair fishing reels of different types - inertial and inertial.

Of course, there is an opportunity to contact specialized workshops for help, or you can try to repair fishing reels with your own hands. This will not only save money, but also experience the joy of doing the work yourself.

Choosing this attribute of fishing, each fisherman carefully thinks over the options and conditions for fishing, and only then acquires a product that is suitable in terms of characteristics. And it becomes a pity if suddenly it becomes unusable. Where to start repairing a spinning reel? The answer is unambiguous - from the disassembly of the product.

To begin with, we will study the phased disassembly of the product, and then we will consider the signs and main causes of breakdowns, which necessitate both the repair of the inertia coils and the repair of the inertial coil with our own hands.

Regardless of whether you are about to repair spinning fishing reels or repairing multiplier reels that combine the principle of inertial reels - it is very important to properly prepare and carefully disassemble the product. When disassembling it, lay out each removed element and part in order of priority. This approach afterwards, after you carry out the repair of the spinning reel, will greatly facilitate the assembly procedure.

Video (click to play).

To clean the product, use cotton wool or a cotton pad previously soaked in warm water. If you need to remove dirt in hard-to-reach areas, use either tweezers or cotton swabs. It is strongly not recommended to use aggressive household cleaners to remove dirt. When repairing reels for spinning, it is better to use gasoline or alcohol for cleaning.

Let's take a look at the disassembly of a spinning reel using the example of a Shimano Catana 2500 FB:

To repair a spinning coil with your own hands, you must first disassemble it. And let's start this process by removing the handle.

The next step is to remove the plastic washers and the sprocket under them.

We unscrew the nut by first unscrewing the bolt that holds it.

We unscrew all the mounting bolts and remove the decorative overlay.

To remove the main gear, you must first unscrew the bolt securing the rod. Then you need to pull out the stem, and then remove the gear.

We remove the remaining gears.

Consider the disassembly using the example of ABU GARCIA REVO POWER CRANK 6-L REEL:

We unscrew the lock nut securing the coil handle.

We disassemble the case of the multiplier in order to get the spool. To do this, unscrew the lock nut,

turn the "cheek" of the multiplier and remove it.

We remove the spool from the multiplier body.

To get to the main mechanism of the multiplier, we remove the part from the axis

and gaskets installed underneath.

Remove the axle brake cover.

We unscrew all the fastening bolts that hold the cover that covers the main mechanism and remove it.

We disassemble the main mechanism. The largest gear is the main gear, it contains the clutch pressure discs.

Carefully remove the decorative strip (http://prntscr.com/giaynv) and remove the slider guide.

Remove the worm stopper, unscrew the lid and take out the "tooth", and then remove the "worm".

The product is completely disassembled, rinse it, diagnose the damage and repair the retractable coil.

In order to carry out competent repair of inertial coils with your own hands, as well as inertial coils, you must first determine the cause of the breakdown, and do it correctly. Of course, after disassembling the product, you can clearly see the part that is out of order. However, the manifestation of certain malfunction symptoms will most likely help to identify the failed part before the coil is disassembled.

Types of faults and their manifestation:

Internal noise. If extraneous sounds appear in the product during use, you should immediately stop using it. It is not necessary that the noise is caused by a damaged part; it can also be caused by dirt trapped in the mechanism. However, if the reason is not in the contamination of the product, then most likely the bearings are out of order. Then, in order to repair the fishing reel, it will be enough to replace the worn out parts.
Squeak in the reel. Constant creaking inside the body signals only one thing to the fisherman - it's time to disassemble the reel, clean it of old grease and process it with a new one. Determining which part or assembly is the source of the squeak is quite problematic. Therefore, it is better to carry out a complete maintenance of the product.
The line winds unevenly on the spool. Sometimes the following situation begins to occur - the line is unevenly placed on the spool, forming a front or rear cone. The fix is easy enough. If winding is done with a cone down, then it is necessary to remove one washer from the main shaft of the reel. In case of upward cone formation, the washer must be added.

In order for the product to serve you in the long term, you need to properly and carefully operate it, carry out periodic maintenance and promptly respond to any signs of deviation from normal operation of the coil.

Do not postpone the repair of spinning reels indefinitely - delay will only aggravate the state of affairs and accelerate the destruction of not only damaged parts, but also those that interact with them. This will lead to an increase in the cost of repairs or even failure of the product!

Let's take a look at the video of repairing fishing reels with our own hands with a few tricks:

Experienced fishermen do not advise disassembling and lubricating a high-quality new reel for 1-2 seasons. In the absence of problems, only light lubrication of the rotating parts is permissible to facilitate sliding. Also remember that some breakdowns can be avoided by knowing the rules for operating the reels - for example, after returning home from fishing, do not leave the clutch tightened, loosen it. This will help to avoid deformation and sticking of the friction discs during a long idle spool!

Most of the problems that arise during the operation of the reel and interfere with comfortable fishing, while enjoying fishing, can be quite easily fix it yourself.

Another way out is to trust the professionals by contacting a special workshop. Both the first and second options will allow you to avoid spending on the purchase of a new reel, continuing to fish with the old, familiar and favorite model.

Let's consider how to disassemble a spinning reel, how to assemble, repair spinning reels with our own hands, and also analyze the basic rules for caring for these rather complex devices.

And if you are also interested in finding out the device of the inertial coils or the choice of the baitcasting reel, then read our articles!

Spinning reel selection important point for successful fishing, it becomes a pity if the reel quickly becomes unusable, but do not give up, because in most cases it can be repaired.

Before starting to disassemble the coil, it is better to wipe it with cotton wool soaked in water to clear it of dirt, sand and fish mucus.

When disassembling the coil mechanism, all the details of the mechanisms are worth lay out in order right to left or left to right. This will allow you to assemble the spinning reel without unnecessary problems.
The coil is disassembled in this order:

first of all it is necessary remove the nut friction brake and spool;
then washers and gearslocated under the spool;
the next step is unscrew the handle;
then disassemble the coil mechanism itself: unscrew the clamping nut with pliers or a wrench, remove the rotor;
then remove the shackle of the line and the mechanism that latches it, to disassemble the roller through which the fishing line passes;
unscrew the stopper bolt reverse stroke and remove the switch, unscrew the plug bolt and remove it;
remove the coil wall (as a rule, this requires quite a lot of effort);
removing the wall, you will see a slider and two gears - this is the main mechanism of the coilif everything is in order with them, you should not take them off.

As for the assembly of the coil, it is carried out in the reverse order.

Internal noise can be caused by dirt entering the mechanism or broken bearings or other parts. If there is noise, the use of a freewheel is necessary stop immediatelyso as not to make the problem worse. The coil should be disassembled and, depending on the specific cause of the problem, either cleaned or replaced with new parts.

If, during the reeling of the line, there is a rumble and knock, the mechanism periodically jams, and under load (while playing) the reel wedges, this means that there is serious problems in the final drive mechanism. In this case, the drive and driven gear must be replaced with a new pair.

If the bow of the line guide spontaneously switches from the “cast” position to the “rewind” position, this can lead to various problems - from shooting the bait to rod breakage.

To fix the problem, you first need to tighten the boltswith which the bow is attached. In the event that this was not enough, remove the cover, under which the spring is located, and add elasticity to herby installing a gasket on the rod, or change the spring to a more rigid one.

When this problem occurs, the spool handle can rotate freely both forward and backward even when the backstop is engaged. In modern models, the stopper is made on the basis of an overrunning clutch, and the cause of the problem is dirt and grease thickening. The coupling must be disassembled and lubricated with liquid oil. It should be noted that overrunning clutch repair is a rather complicated procedure, which is better to be entrusted to professionals.

The appearance of dents, scratches and other defects on the side of the spool leads to a decrease in the casting distance. In addition, the line is significantly injured by the unevenness of the spool, and its service life is significantly reduced. How to fix it? When such defects appear, they must be grind thoroughly, and polish the surface of the bobbin collar. At the same time, it is necessary to try not to remove the hard-alloy metal deposition from the side, which is present on good modern reels.

On reels with a front friction brake, the clutch retaining nut is located 1-2 mm above the spool edge... As a result, the line clings to it and falls under the edge, gets tangled and torn. To fix the problem, you should disassemble the mechanism: Remove the retaining nut and clutch washers, then replace the felt spacer with a thin plastic one. This will align the locking nut with the edge of the spool.

If a creak appears, it means that the coil is need to lubricate... At the same time, it can be difficult to determine which specific parts creak, so the best option when this problem appears is to disassemble, clean and lubricate the entire coil. With a certain skill, this will not be a problem and will not take much time.

If the line comes off in a tight spiral during casting, the reason is dirt ingress into the roller mechanism of the line laying machine. The bearing located there rubs, and the line twists. Accordingly, in order to eliminate the malfunction, it is necessary disassemble, clean and lubricate the roller.

If the line winds on the spool unevenly, resulting in a front or rear taper, it is not necessarily a disadvantage... However, you should know that the situation can be easily corrected in the right direction. There are several washers of different thicknesses on the main shaft of the reel. To eliminate line winding taper down, one washer should be removed, and if cone pointing up, the washer must be added.

Self-tightening of the friction clutch when blowing off the line - serious malfunction, which may be present on the reels of not the highest quality. It leads to a line break when playing fish and, in a more severe case, to breakage of the coil itself.
Unfortunately, it is almost impossible to eliminate this defect, the only way out is be careful when fishing.

There are many ways to increase your fish catch, but the most effective units are. Below the editors of the site share with you the 3 most effective ways to increase your catch:

Bite activator. It is a pheromone-based supplement that activates receptors in fish. ATTENTION! The Fishery Inspectorate wants to ban this bait!
Any other bait with flavors is less effective, it is better if they contain pheromones. But the most effective way is to use new for 2016 - DYNAMITE EFFECT!
Learning different fishing techniques. For example, here it is written about spinning wires.

In some cases, such as the overrunning clutch repair mentioned above, the process is complex and painstaking, so it is better to entrust this part to a professional. This will fix the problem. in a short time and with a professional guarantee.

In addition, do not forget that attempts to repair the spinning reel with your own hands can be very difficultMoreover, there is a risk of aggravating the problem.

So, let's take a closer look the advantages of repair by a specialist... Spinning reel repairman:

can make fast and high-quality repair of spinning reels;
has a large assortment of spare parts for spools of any class;
can carry out high-precision adjustment of the main pair;
uses special lubricating oils.

You can find such a master in any major city.

To prevent breakdowns and malfunctions, first of all, you should carefully transport the coil and handle it with sufficient care on the pond in order to avoid shocks that can lead to a breakdown of the mechanism, try not to dip it into water or put it on the sand.

Cleaning... If sand gets into the mechanism, moving parts such as the pinion and pinion can wear out rather quickly. To avoid this problem, you must regularly disassemble the coil and clean it from the inside.

Grease... Dry operation of the mechanism is another reason for its rapid wear... Lubrication must be carried out immediately after cleaning the coil from the sand that has got into it. Which oil to use is not as simple as it might seem at first glance.

If this is not possible, you can use any oil that is suitable in consistency, but you need to be sure that it does not contain unnecessary additives and does not destroy plastic parts that are widely used in the production of modern spinning reels. In other words, an oil designed to soften metal-to-metal friction - not the best option.

Careful handling of the coil and regular maintenance will help to avoid serious problems. All malfunctions manifest themselves in one way or another at an early stage, it is on it that these malfunctions are easiest to eliminate. Timely maintenance and repairs will maximize the life of the reel, and it will delight the angler with flawless performance for years to come.

And if you want to gain knowledge on how to install and set up a spinning reel? Read this article.

At the end of the video - the elimination of the self-discharge of the line laying machine on the spinning reel. Happy viewing!

Fishing gives pleasure with its process - each of us knows about it. But in addition to this, we always want to get the result from fishing - to catch not three perches, but a dozen kilogram pikes - this will be the catch! Each of us dreams of this, but not everyone knows how.A good catch can be achieved (and we both know this) thanks to good bait... It can be made at home or bought at fishermen's shops. But in stores it is expensive, and to prepare groundbait at home, you need to spend a lot of time, and, in all fairness, homemade bait does not always work well.Do you know that disappointment when you bought groundbait or cooked it at home, but caught three or four perches? Of course familiar. So maybe it's time to use a really working product, the effectiveness of which has been proven both scientifically and by practice on the rivers and ponds of Russia?There is such a bait and it's not a myth - TWITCHING LURE... Yes, yes, it was she. Many people know her, many love her, but only a few know how to use it, which is why there are so many angry reviews about her on the Internet. Someone simply does not know how to read the instructions.Of course, it's better to try once than hear a thousand times. Moreover, now is the season! A 50% discount when ordering is a great bonus! Order TWITCHING LURE soon! Image - DIY dive coil repair

The easiest way to fix a breakdown is to find a similar one, for example, exactly this is in ~~reel~~ TEBEN TF 150. Ideal in all respects. The second way is to order in production, which was done, but you should not cover it with anything, because quite often, anti-corrosion coatings applied to a number of springs make them brittle due to the saturation of the metal with hydrogen during etching and during the coating process. This is especially noticeable on springs made of wire or tape of small cross-section. This fragility, called etching or hydrogen, is eliminated by heating the finished springs in oil, glycerin or an oven at 180-200 ° C for 1 to 2 hours.
However, with prolonged etching, the metal is saturated with hydrogen so strongly that the specified temperature does not eliminate the brittleness and the springs must be annealed.

We disassemble the mechanism for dumping the arch of the forestry device. We take out the pusher made of aluminum alloy and process it in any convenient way to the state:

The lid must also be modified by the method of removing excess material. It is worth removing everything that is shown in the photo in red.

After (the places are already greased with grease):

Cut off a piece of stainless wire with a diameter of 2 mm and a length of 40 mm, from which we make a spring-loaded pusher. The upper part of the wire, which will be inserted into the rocker arm of the line guide, should be machined to a diameter of 1.4 mm. An electric drill, sandpaper and a file will help you with this. We rivet the larger diameter of the pusher at the border of the transition 1.4 - 2 mm so that it does not pass into the 2x4x0.25 washer, prepared in advance. We bend the pusher step of a smaller diameter in the same way as the broken spring, but at the same time the put on washer on the pusher should not hide under the rocker arm when it is in the closed state. Cut off the excess on the other side and make a rounding with a radius of 1 mm (this procedure should be performed without fail). See above for what should turn out.

We take a drill and make a hole in the rotor of the line stacker. We screw on the spring with a screw. Lubricate, insert both pushers and lubricate again.

We collect the coil. The lid should fit tightly, if this does not happen, then there is no room for the spring.
Also, during the repair, the new spring can not be screwed on, but rest it against the cover. Only in this case, the assembly of the coil becomes difficult and the lid itself jars.

Such a simple design change will bring your favorite reel back to life completely and completely and allows you to return to using the springs provided by the manufacturer at any time.

Option 4.
As they write on the Internet, this is to find some kind of spring from electrical parts, unwind it and wind it in the desired shape and size. It is possible, it works, but the elastic properties of such a spring will not last for a long time and will "sit down" quickly, and it is also very dreary to wind a springy wire. There is a high probability of breakage during manufacture.
The choice is yours.

In this article I will try to explain in detail how to handle Daiwa reels, what problems arise, tuning, upgrading, etc.
Well let's go!

1.Handle and knob. Diving handles are usually made of aluminum alloy, they are very good, even on inexpensive models they are of high quality. Their only drawback is their heavy weight. Knobs are also very solid. They are made either of rubber or plastic. The quality of workmanship is high. The knob on the top model often rotates on the bushing (s), this is certainly upsetting. But the bushings are of good quality, last a long time. Of course, the bushings are better to replace immediately. on the bearings, so you save the life of the knob axles and the knob itself. Particularly good are solid handles (Luvias 07, Exist, Emeraldas, etc.) .Not happy with the new split knobs, dirt easily gets into them.

2.Spool and winding. With spools everything is in order. On top models there are usually light bobbins. Of course, on some models (Caldia Kix for example) there is a very heavy spool. But this excess weight can be removed. The winding on almost all dives is excellent. This a big plus. Even older models can easily cope with thin braids and lines. I also want to note the excellent work of the friction clutch.

3. Roller line layer. Here this unit is very successful and simple (if, of course, on the bearing). It consists of a washer bearing roller and a plastic sleeve (on newer models it is somewhat different, there is also a bushing for a bearing with an oil seal). The roller itself is made of a powerful the alloy is covered with titanium nitride (the cheap ones are simpler, but still not bad) rather thick and to wipe it over try very hard. In the 04 certification model under consideration, there is a small bearing (3 * 6 * 2.5), this is a minus. Many complain about the whistling video clip. But, what is surprising, the bearing is small, and the load is large. Of course, you can change it to 4 * 7 * 2, but for this you have to buy a whole assembly (bow and roller assembly) or add another 3 * 6 * 2.5. Already in 07 Luvias, the error was corrected - there is a bearing with a size of 4 * 7 * 2. You can put the knot on two bearings by purchasing (exist knot) It will not be superfluous! how people did not service for a long time or overtighten the screw.

4. The reset mechanism! The reset mechanism is simple and reliable! On one side there is a spring with a pusher, on the other, there is a spring with a lever. As a rule, there are no problems with this unit. The spring lasts a long time. On cheap truth (Regal and the like), springs often fly (they are there pin type)

5. Rotor nut. On all dives that I have seen there were locking screws that prevent the nut from unscrewing. This is very cool. On medium-budget dives, we find a bearing in the nut. This is also a big plus. It is very important.

6 Bow! The bow on almost all dives is very good, thick, strong and very hard to deform.

7. Overtaking. This is perhaps the weakest point of the dive. Many dive owners often complain that the overrunning clutch slips. It can slip for many reasons: dirt has accumulated, the wrong lubricant, skewed, a screw has been unscrewed, the end of overtaking has come, etc. . She needs care.
And what is there to be surprised if the overtaking itself is not attached to the body, it is covered with metal washers and covered with a plate, which is then fixed with two or three screws + it is non-separable. Why, Daiva does not want to solve this problem. But it is solved easily: attach the overtaking to the body how it is done in Shimano and that's it. Even in expensive models there are problems with overtaking. If you catch uniformly, light pulls, etc., then problems usually do not happen, but if you actively jig, you will be in trouble. If you notice that you have begun overshoots, then it is better to immediately give the reel to the service, because it harms the mechanics and fishing in general.

8.Rock, Main Steam, etc. Let's talk about the `` signature rumble. '' Well, what is there to be surprised at the teeth are large on many dives, and if there is also steel on bronze, then in general. But I want to say that I have met a lot dives that worked just perfect. So in most cases the rumble indicates that the grease is finished or there is already wear, well, or poor fit. Old dives went with a small tooth and at infinity, so they have a soft ride. Main pairs (starting from caldia ) are very good and powerful, respectively durable, however, like parasites. Although for some reason they put a plastic parasite on the top 13 certification. Yes, the work is softer, but reliability is lost. The fit of the mechanics is usually very good Everything is tough, clearly. Here the engineers tried ...

9. Bearings. On old models there are very good bearings, but on new ones I often find such rubbish that it just gets bad. Apparently we often get a defect. It's hard to say.
10. Case and rotor. If this is an old model, like this 04 Serteate, then there are almost no questions either to the rotor or to the case. Sometimes it's hard to get the bearing out of the housing, and sometimes it's hard to insert it) But if you look at the new models, they already have split rotors from Zaion. It is easy to replace such a rotor, but it costs a lot and it is not always possible to order. Even at 15 Exists there is one like this. I'm just shocked, a lot of money to give for a ‘cardboard reel’ ’. The reel becomes lighter, but reliability is lost
Rotor 04 certificate

11.Magnesium protection (Mag Sealed) What is it? -Magnetic plate with a special magnesium liquid. I can't say that this is something extraordinary. Yes, to some extent it protects, but not particularly. Moreover, on those models where it is installed, the rotor is split and dirt gets there easily. Sometimes this magnesium liquid begins to drain into the overrun , which is not very good. Also this protection was applied on rollers. Old models without this protection work no worse. On the example of 10 Serteite

12. Upgrade and tuning. Of course, it is worth changing the bushings to bearings, if finances allow. By changing the bushings in the spool and under the spool, you will get more correct operation of the clutch. It is good to install a new unit on two bearings in the roller. It is also advisable to replace the knob in the knob (save the life of the knob and the axle You can also lighten the spool if it is heavy. You can drill holes and you can make a sample from the inside
13.Transportation! I would recommend transporting the coil in rigid tubes or covers. Our Ukrainian company Acropolis offers very good things. And many say that Ukraine does not produce anything! Yeah, only this acropolis is taken by the Germans. We can do everything!)

The fault of unintentional "casting without return" is most often the spontaneous closing, or, as they say, "slamming", of the arches of the forestry machine. There can be quite a few reasons for this behavior of such an important “inertia” unit, but there are three main ones: weak fixation of the bow in the open position, a large mass of the bow itself, and too small an angle of travel of the lever of the forest laying roller. Let us consider all these phenomena in more detail using the example of different designs of bow return units for common models of spinning coils.

Fixation of the bow in the extreme positions is carried out through the passage of the "dead center" (photo 3), where the spring force is maximum. Sometimes the return system, that is, the spring and the lever mechanism that controls it, is located in one rotor rack, but often these units are spaced apart: the spring is in one rack, and the lever device is in the other (photo 4). We will consider the advantages and disadvantages of single and spaced systems below, but for now we note that a spiral double-arm spring is as simple as it is short-lived. It is she who, in the entire return system of the arch of the line, experiences constant dynamic loads, the full cycle of which is twice the number of casts.Accordingly, it often fails, that is, it simply breaks down, and at the most inopportune moment, and the coil becomes completely inoperative. It is quite simple to repair it at home - craftsmen have long been using safety pins for such springs, suitable for the size and diameter of the wire. But in the field, it is very useful to have a spare spring with you, made in advance in size.

Conclusion: coils with a return system of this type with a monolithic bow are most prone to spontaneous slamming with all the ensuing consequences. Self-resetting "cure" in such structures is rather troublesome, since the structure is so simple that it does not provide for the possibility of adjustment.

It would be a mistake to believe that the designers and manufacturers of spinning reels are not aware of the problem of "shooting" or have deliberately put it into the design, so that poor spinning reels would often fork out for the purchase of new wobblers, jig heads and any other lures to replace those that were irrevocably gone. The system for fixing the bow was improved along with other units of the "inertia", its design, production and assembly became more complicated, and as a result, the quality and price of the reel increased. In an effort to eliminate "self-resetting" the designers have made the following improvements: - improved the performance of the spring by replacing the spiral two-arm spring with a long spiral spring operating in compression;
- spaced the return and control system over two racks of the coil rotor;
- introduced additional details into the arch return control system;
- reduced the weight of the bow itself to reduce the moment of inertia;
- installed additional spring clips for the roller lever;
- and finally, created a controversial system among anglers for braking the reel rotor with an open bow.

Additional roller arm locks are usually made in the form of a spring-loaded ball (or a cylinder with a spherical running surface) that fits into a recess in the arm sector. Such a device, with a click, rather informs the angler that the bow is open, rather than fundamentally improves its fixation before casting. It is not worth modifying this unit on your own. As for the rotor braking with an open bow, this option is only available on expensive reels, which by themselves have a fairly reliable fixation unit for the open bow. Braking is carried out due to the fact that a small lever on the rotor, after opening the bow, with one of its shoulders rests against the rubber ring put on the coil body under the rotor. It is believed that reels with a very light move can turn under the weight of their own handle, thereby forcing the bow return system to work against the will of the angler. Therefore, if there is such a device on the purchased coil, then let it remain, but if not, this is not a reason for sadness.

Unfortunately, buying a new spinning reel is not all. It doesn't work like this: I liked it, bought it, went fishing and caught it.

Recently, the build quality of the coils, the availability and correct lubrication of the working mechanisms leave much to be desired. Also, on many bezinertsionki already from the factory there are some incomprehensible backlash, noise, and sometimes even metal shavings come across inside the case. If earlier poor quality control was inherent in budget series coils, now even the top models are full of flaws, so when buying the model you need, I strongly recommend asking the seller to put several identical coils on the counter, twist each one and choose the best one from the presented ones.

During the tests, it is necessary to closely examine each model for the presence of extraneous noise, ease of scrolling the handle, also check for the backlash of the main pair, the backlash of the rotor relative to the rod, whether there is any slip of the handle in the opposite direction (operation of the instantaneous backstop).Pay attention to the fact that the spool does not sausage from side to side and it stands motionless relative to the same rod.

On reels equipped with a folding handle, it is necessary to check the button play. All these points are tested - by scrolling, swinging the coil elements relative to the attachment axes and twitching along the axes back and forth, not paying attention to the dissatisfied look of the sales assistant.

With such a meticulous examination of several coils, in 90% of cases there is one most “correct” one. Which, and the move is smoother, and the noise is less, and with backlashes everything is in order. But this is not a guarantee that there is enough lubricant inside or there will not be some kind of joint, which in the near future can spoil the impression of the purchase. Therefore, before using the spinning reel for the first time on a pond, it is better to open it and make sure that the reel does not need lubrication, that there are no foreign objects inside, etc. In general, you need to service the coil.

Consider the disassembly and maintenance of the coil on the example of the budget model Daiwa Regal 2500 XIA, along the way we will eliminate small but very unpleasant backlash, which can “kill” the gear teeth and the worm of the main pair in a season. By the way, it will not be superfluous to note that the Daiwa Procaster 2500 X has absolutely the same internal mechanism, and many other “popular” coils are disassembled in a similar way. The main thing is to maintain consistency.

During the test of the Daiwa Regal 2500 XIA reel, the handle backlash and the rotor backlash relative to the stem were revealed.

We unscrew the clutch nut and put it to the left of us, remove the spool and put it next to it, and then put each removed part next to the previous one from the left to the right: a rubber ring, bearings, washers, etc. The sequence of actions will help a lot when assembling the coil, because you will not need to guess where it all came from.

After releasing the stem, unscrew the locking screw and the shuttle (rotor) fastening nut

Under the rotor we see two screws that hold the washer for fastening the freewheel bearing block. Use a small Phillips screwdriver to unscrew these screws and first take out the block, then the sleeve. Attention. The bearings inside the block should not be abundantly lubricated, the clutch itself must also be dry, otherwise the backstop will not be instantaneous (the handle will slip back). The clutch can slide over the grease and not get stuck in the block.

In principle, if the coil is new and no play is found on the shuttle, then you can not disassemble further, but in my case it is necessary to check the bearing of the worm gear, so we continue.

Under the overrun, there is again a washer on two screws, which holds the worm bearing in the bore. We unscrew the screws, take out the washer. We check what's wrong with the bearing.

Unscrew three screws and halve the coil body. Attention! Between the main gear and the bearing of the housing there is a very thin copper washer, which has the property of miraculously sticking to the bearing, flying off the axis of the gear. If they saw her right away, then there is nothing terrible, you know where she is from and why. Worse if it disappeared during assembly or even shifted along the inside of the case, and then went unnoticed. Laughter, laughter, but I also had to see such a thing that a person did not pay attention to such a trifle, the washer remained under the body, later it came off and fell into the meat grinder of the main pair gears.

So, the puck was not lost, the body was cut in half, now let's look what's inside. Thick, clean grease should be present only on the teeth of the main pair gears and the stem gear. There should not be any separately lying washers, shavings from the internal processing of the coil. The bearings are all greased, but not abundantly and more fluid grease.

Here, probably, many people can calm down, collect everything in the reverse order and enjoy the purchase.

But, firstly, I don’t trust the factory lubricant, and secondly, I hardly believe that there is a sufficient (correct, which is also important) amount of lubricant there.If there is, I remove and grease it again, if not, I wipe the parts from the humus that was poured into there and still do it my own way. It's safer this way.

In order to remove all the soiled parts you cannot understand, it is necessary to disengage the teeth of the gears of the main pair, and first remove the worm from the body, and then the main one. In order to do this, remove the lock washer that holds the pinion axle in the bearing of the housing, pry it off with an awl and carefully remove it from the axle groove.

Press a little on the axle from the side of the removed washer, take out the worm, then the main gear, the stem. and we see this -

Now you need to wash every detail in kerosene or in some other liquid suitable for these purposes.

We take the lubricant recommended for fishing reels, I used thick lithium-

As already mentioned, there is no sense in stuffing a full case with grease, and the excess will eventually fall on the overrunning clutch, and you already know what this is fraught with.

Apply the required amount of lithium to the teeth of the main gear and

onto the worm, and sprinkle the bearings and other rubbing surfaces with liquid silicone grease, having previously shaken the can well. We leave everything and go to smoke for ten minutes. During this time, the silicone grease is converted into the final substance, we remove the excess of it and proceed to the assembly of the coil.

As it turned out, the bearing in the bore is loose. For some microns, the bearing turned out to be less than necessary, and this is quite enough to subsequently break the worm guide nest, which is located next to the main gear, and the coil teeth do not fit snugly, which leads to their rapid wear and a characteristic rumble when the handle is rotated.

What to do with the bearing that dangles in the coil body is an interesting question.

You can try to find or order a good bearing somewhere, since our backlash is most likely due to the fact that it is Chinese (like that down jacket in G. Kharlamov's song), but the price will be approximately half the cost of the entire coil and the question of the expediency of such actions is of great importance.

And you can go this way-

Take the FUM tape, stretch the piece well and evenly so that the tape itself becomes thinner. Wrap it around the bearing and press it into the seat using a tube of a suitable diameter. Note that this is a troublesome business. It is not always possible to do everything right the first time. or even from the third it does not work, but the durability of using the coil as a whole depends on this, so you have to try.

Maybe there is some other way that I didn’t think of, but I didn’t think of it. so I used the one I know.

The second backlash, which was on the handle itself, appears for two reasons, the first of which is the backlash of one or both bearings in the housing bore holes, the second is the loose pressing of the main pair between the housing bearings.

In the first case, you need to do exactly the same as shown above, and pressing the gear can be achieved by placing an additional washer on the axle from the side of the housing cover. The only thing you will have to experiment with the thickness of the washer, since you cannot pinch the gear. It is necessary to ensure that the handle rotates freely and easily, but there was no backlash.

Video (click to play).

How and from what you can make an additional washer, if a spare was not included with the coil, you can see How to remove the backlash on the handle of a spinning coil.

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