DIY spinning reel repair stopper repair

In detail: do-it-yourself spinning reel repair repair of a stopper from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Most of the problems that arise during the operation of the reel and interfere with comfortable fishing, while enjoying fishing, can be quite easily fix it yourself.

Another way out is to trust the professionals by contacting a special workshop. Both the first and second options will allow you to avoid spending on the purchase of a new reel, continuing to fish with the old, familiar and favorite model.

Let's consider how to disassemble a spinning reel, how to assemble, repair spinning reels with our own hands, and also analyze the basic rules for caring for these rather complex devices.

And if you are also interested in finding out the device of the inertial coils or the choice of the baitcasting reel, then read our articles!

Spinning reel selection important point for successful fishing it becomes a pity if the reel quickly becomes unusable, but do not give up, because in most cases it can be repaired.

Before starting to disassemble the coil, it is better to wipe it with cotton wool soaked in water to clear it of dirt, sand and fish mucus.

When disassembling the coil mechanism, all the details of the mechanisms are worth lay out in order right to left or left to right. This will allow you to assemble the spinning reel without unnecessary problems.
The coil is disassembled in this order:

first of all it is necessary remove the nut friction brake and spool;
then washers and gearslocated under the spool;
the next step is unscrew the handle;
then disassemble the coil mechanism itself: unscrew the clamping nut with pliers or a wrench, remove the rotor;
then remove the shackle of the line and the mechanism that latches it, to disassemble the roller through which the fishing line passes;
unscrew the stopper bolt reverse stroke and remove the switch, unscrew the plug bolt and remove it;
remove the coil wall (as a rule, this requires quite a lot of effort);
removing the wall, you will see a slider and two gears - this is the main mechanism of the coilif everything is in order with them, you should not take them off.

Video (click to play).

As for the assembly of the coil, it is carried out in the reverse order.

Internal noise can be caused by dirt entering the mechanism or broken bearings or other parts. If there is noise, the use of a freewheel is necessary stop immediatelyso as not to make the problem worse. The coil should be disassembled and, depending on the specific cause of the problem, either cleaned or replaced with new parts.

If, during the reeling of the line, there is a rumble and knock, the mechanism periodically jams, and under load (while playing) the reel wedges, this means that there is serious problems in the final drive mechanism. In this case, the drive and driven gear must be replaced with a new pair.

If the bow of the line guide spontaneously switches from the “cast” position to the “rewind” position, this can lead to various problems - from shooting the bait to rod breakage.

To fix the problem, you first need to tighten the boltswith which the bow is attached. In the event that this was not enough, remove the cover, under which the spring is located, and add elasticity to herby installing a gasket on the rod, or change the spring to a more rigid one.

When this problem occurs, the spool handle can rotate freely both forward and backward even when the backstop is engaged.In modern models, the stopper is made on the basis of an overrunning clutch, and the cause of the problem is dirt and grease thickening. The coupling must be disassembled and lubricated with liquid oil. It should be noted that overrunning clutch repair is a rather complicated procedure, which is better to be entrusted to professionals.

The appearance of dents, scratches and other defects on the side of the spool leads to a decrease in the casting distance. In addition, the line is significantly injured by the unevenness of the spool, and its service life is significantly reduced. How to fix it? When such defects appear, they must be grind thoroughly, and polish the surface of the bobbin collar. At the same time, it is necessary to try not to remove the hard-alloy metal deposition from the side, which is present on good modern reels.

On reels with a front friction brake, the clutch retaining nut is located 1-2 mm above the spool edge... As a result, the line clings to it and falls under the edge, gets tangled and torn. To fix the problem, you should disassemble the mechanism: Remove the retaining nut and clutch washers, then replace the felt spacer with a thin plastic one. This will align the locking nut with the edge of the spool.

If a creak appears, it means that the coil is need to lubricate... At the same time, it can be difficult to determine which specific parts creak, so the best option when this problem appears is to disassemble, clean and lubricate the entire coil. With a certain skill, this will not be a problem and will not take much time.

If the line comes off in a tight spiral during casting, the reason is dirt ingress into the roller mechanism of the line laying machine. The bearing located there rubs, and the line twists. Accordingly, in order to eliminate the malfunction, it is necessary disassemble, clean and lubricate the roller.

If the line winds on the spool unevenly, resulting in a front or rear taper, it is not necessarily a disadvantage... However, you should know that the situation can be easily corrected in the right direction. There are several washers of different thicknesses on the main shaft of the reel. To eliminate line winding taper down, one washer should be removed, and if cone pointing up, the washer must be added.

Self-tightening of the friction clutch when blowing off the line - serious malfunction, which may be present on the reels of not the highest quality. It leads to a line break when playing fish and, in a more severe case, to breakage of the coil itself.
Unfortunately, it is almost impossible to eliminate this defect, the only way out is be careful when fishing.

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Learning different fishing techniques. For example, here it is written about spinning wires.

In some cases, such as the overrunning clutch repair mentioned above, the process is complex and painstaking, so it is better to entrust this part to a professional. This will fix the problem. in a short time and with a professional guarantee.

In addition, do not forget that attempts to repair the spinning reel with your own hands can be very difficultMoreover, there is a risk of aggravating the problem.

So, let's take a closer look the advantages of repair by a specialist... Spinning reel repairman:

can make fast and high-quality repair of spinning reels;
has a large assortment of spare parts for spools of any class;
can carry out high-precision adjustment of the main pair;
uses special lubricating oils.

You can find such a master in any major city.

To prevent breakdowns and malfunctions, first of all, you should carefully transport the coil and handle it with sufficient care in the pond in order to avoid shocks that can lead to a breakdown of the mechanism, try not to dip it into water or put it on the sand.

Cleaning... If sand gets into the mechanism, moving parts such as the pinion and pinion can wear out rather quickly. To avoid this problem, you need to regularly disassemble the coil and clean it from the inside.

Grease... Dry operation of the mechanism is another reason for its rapid wear... Lubrication must be carried out immediately after cleaning the coil from the sand that has got into it. Which oil to use is not as simple as it might seem at first glance.

If this is not possible, you can use any oil that is suitable in consistency, but you need to be sure that it does not contain unnecessary additives and does not destroy plastic parts that are widely used in the production of modern spinning reels. In other words, an oil designed to soften metal-to-metal friction - not the best option.

Careful handling of the coil and regular maintenance will help to avoid serious problems. All malfunctions manifest themselves in one way or another at an early stage, it is on it that these malfunctions are easiest to eliminate. Timely maintenance and repairs will maximize the life of the reel, and it will delight the angler with flawless performance for years to come.

And if you want to gain knowledge on how to install and set up a spinning reel? Read this article.

At the end of the video - the elimination of the self-discharge of the line laying machine on the spinning reel. Happy viewing!

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During fishing, spinning rods are used in difficult conditions, which leads to their frequent breakdowns. Spinning reels are repaired either by professionals in the workshop or in the field. The cost of professional services is sometimes equivalent to the price of a new part. The cheapest way is to do it yourself.

Tackle failures make fishing uncomfortable and annoying. Let's consider how the spinning reel is disassembled and repaired.

When choosing a tackle, the marking gives complete information about the device. The correct selection of parameters promises good luck in the fishing industry.

Spinning coils are marked with symbols and marks on the device body.It contains information about the characteristics and helps when choosing a tackle. Firms have developed uniform standards and are trying to comply with them.

The main body of information is located on the part itself:

size (indicated in numbers);
the amount of line for winding (forest consumption);
coil gear ratios.

The size of the spool can be graduated from 1 to 4 thousand. The value of the number on the marking is proportional to the size of the spool, power and weight, as well as the capacity for the line.

The forest capacity indicator is displayed in the form of markings, for example, 180 / 0.25. In this case, 180 m of line with a cross section of 0.25 mm can fit on the spool.

The gear ratios show how many times the bobbin will turn if the handle is made one turn. Typically, the marking is displayed like this: 5.0: 1. In this case, with one turn of the handle, the reel with the line stacker will make five turns around the axis.

Extended parameters can also be applied to the part, for example, is there a reverse stop. But this information is considered secondary and does not have a significant impact on success in fishing.

Devices of inertialess type have the following components: body, drive, brake clutch, rotor, reel seat leg, reverse direction switch, spool fixing rod, forestry device with bow, roller, gearwheel with bow.

Repair of a spinning reel at home is carried out in the following sequence:

the nut of the brake system and spool is turned off;
gears and washers placed under the spool are removed;
the handle of the coil is dismantled;
the clamp nut in the mechanism device is unscrewed;
the rotor is disassembled;
the line-laying bow is dismantled;
the latch mechanism of the line guide is dismantled;
the line pulling roller is dismantled;
the bolt of the reverse locking device is unscrewed;
the switch is dismantled;
the cap bolt is unscrewed;
the plug is dismantled;
the wall is dismantled.

The main mechanism, consisting of a pair of gears and a runner, remains not disassembled. Disassembling it is undesirable unless absolutely necessary.

To clean the parts of a spinning reel, wet cotton pads and swabs, fresh warm water, preferably distillate are used. To eliminate contamination in inaccessible nodes, cotton swabs and tweezers are used.

When repairing fishing reels and cleaning them from dirt, sand, it is undesirable to use caustic household cleaning solutions. Replace them with gasoline or ethyl alcohol.

Regardless of the type of tackle, when disassembling mechanisms, parts and parts are placed on a clean surface in the sequence of dismantling. This method will allow you to assemble the structure back several times faster.Before starting the recovery, the spinning reel is disassembled in the following order:

The lock nut is unscrewed, fastening the coil handle.

To remove the spool, the multiplier casing is disassembled. For this purpose, the lock nut is unscrewed, the multiplier "cheek" is turned and removed.

The spool is removed from the multiplier casing.

To reach the main gear of the multiplier, the assembly is removed from the axle and the spacer placed underneath.

The cover on the axle brake is removed.

The bolted connections that fix the cover of the main mechanism are unscrewed and the cover is removed.

The main mechanism is being dismantled. The gear wheel of the maximum size is the main one; the friction discs of the spinning reel are located in it.

The decorative strip is removed, the slider guide is removed.

The stopper of the worm assembly is dismantled, the cover is unscrewed and the "tooth" is taken out, then the "worm" is removed.

After complete disassembly, the product is washed, the coil malfunctions are diagnosed and repaired. For the prevention of malfunctions in the operation of the coil, certain procedures are carried out.From time to time it is necessary to clean the device from dirt and dust, wipe the bobbin board to remove layers.They lead to wear on the cord and deformation of the collar when the reel handle is turned. But the most important thing in self-prophylaxis of part malfunctions is a timely repaired forestry roller.The reasons and frequency of roller prevention can be different. It depends on the individual design features. The slide roller unit must be serviced once from 10 to 20 hours of operating time of the device, that is, every three to four fishing trips. A roller based on a ball bearing is serviced at intervals of 40 to 50 hours. This high frequency is caused by the high rotation speed and constant contact with the cord.

Every real fisherman knows how much time and effort is spent on choosing and buying a suitable spinning rod. Therefore, it is not surprising that with an unforeseen breakdown, the mood is lost. In such situations, the ability to repair the spinning rod with your own hands helps out. The type of repair and the materials used for this depend on the type of spinning rod and the nature of the breakdown.

There are two main types of spinning rods:

Telescopic. One that folds like a spyglass or telescope. His rod will evenly split into knees, inside the structure is empty. That allows it to fold (thin part in a little thicker).
Plug (knee). The knees in the rod, between themselves, are tightly fixed with tubes. Such spinning rods are more convenient and reliable to use.

Broken spinning rod with telescopic rod, easier to repair.

Inertial coils of the "Nevskaya" type. This is the simplest type of coil. Often it does not even have a line braking mechanism. The fisherman has to slow down the drum with the line with his finger.
Professional anglers prefer to use a spinning reel.In such a reel, when casting the bait, the spool (the place where the line is wound) remains motionless. Only the line is unwound. The main condition for using a spool is that it must be completely filled with line.
The newest development of the specialists is the inertial baitcasting reel. It combines the mechanisms of operation of an inertial and a non-inertial coil.

The first two, it is possible to fix it yourself. Multiplier are very difficult, and it is better to leave their repair to specialists. The only breakage with this reel that you can fix yourself is line tangling.

Spinning rods break for two reasons:

Manufacturing defects. This cause of further breakdown can be found upon purchase. The main thing is to choose carefully;
Breakage occurs due to the fault of the fisherman. Due to inept handling of gear and improper transportation. More than 90% of breakdowns occur for this very reason.

Let's consider what rod breakages can be.

The rod (knee) breaks in half.
Breakage of a tulip, the very tip of a spinning rod. It often breaks off at the base.
Top breakage. It often breaks in the middle or beginning of the last section.

There is a gap between the line roller and the arm. The line gets stuck there, and this brings a lot of inconvenience.

Failure of the line guide return spring.
The reel turns hard and binds.
Bow transformation.
Loss of the reducer cap.

In order to carry out a successful repair of a spinning rod, the following materials may be needed:

Suitable tube diameter. It will fit into a broken rod, so the tube should fit snugly without breaking the rod.
Flat thread (nylon) or spinning cord.
Two-component epoxy resin.
Sandpaper.
Scotch.
Carbon fiber.

Now you can start repairing the spinning rod:

The selected tube is sanded, degreased with a solvent and lubricated with epoxy.
One side of the tube is inserted into a broken rod. The broken part of the spinning rod is tightly put on the other side of the tube. Both parts of the rod are connected, the tube is inside.
The fracture point of the spinning rod is wrapped in carbon cloth soaked in epoxy resin and squeezed out.
In order to remove excess resin, tape is tightly wound on the fabric.
For greater strength, a flat nylon thread is wound on the carbon fabric.
Excess resin is removed with a cloth.
The place of repair is dried with a hairdryer for the fastest drying of the epoxy resin.
The repaired rod is placed near the battery for a day.
Scotch tape or nylon thread is unwound and cosmetic repairs are carried out.

If a light spinning rod is being repaired, then the fabric is not used.

sandpaper for stripping;
Super glue;
thread.

The repair of the tip of the spinning rod itself is quite simple and will not take much time. The main thing in this business is attentiveness. We begin to repair:

It is better to take the tip of the rod without rings. If there are rings, they should be carefully removed.
Both parts of the broken rod are trimmed so that the tip can be inserted into the rod (suitable for the volume).
The tip of the rod is inserted into the broken edge.
The place of breakage is tightly wrapped with thread.
The thread is filled with glue.
Dries up.

The disadvantage of this tip repair is that the rod becomes shorter. The tips can be repaired in the same way as rods. This method is described above.

This is the easiest type of repair. It can even be carried out directly on a fishing trip.The first thing that is important is to free the tulip from the rod tip. The tulip is slightly heated and removed with a straightened paper clip.Then the following manipulations are carried out:

The tip is cleaned with sandpaper.

Super glue is used to spread the place of attachment (planting) of the tulip.

The tulip is aligned with the rest of the rings (strictly above them).

Glued to the top of the spinning rod.

A simple tulip repair is completed.

The next step is to remove the plastic washers and the sprocket under them.

We unscrew the nut by first unscrewing the bolt that holds it.

We unscrew all the mounting bolts and remove the decorative overlay.

To remove the main gear, you must first unscrew the bolt securing the rod. Then you need to pull out the stem, and then remove the gear.

We remove the remaining gears.

Consider the disassembly using the example of ABU GARCIA REVO POWER CRANK 6-L REEL:

We unscrew the lock nut securing the coil handle.

We disassemble the case of the multiplier in order to get the spool. To do this, unscrew the lock nut,

turn the "cheek" of the multiplier and remove it.

We remove the spool from the multiplier body.

To get to the main mechanism of the multiplier, we remove the part from the axis

and gaskets installed underneath.

Remove the axle brake cover.

We unscrew all the fastening bolts that hold the cover that covers the main mechanism and remove it.

We disassemble the main mechanism. The largest gear is the main gear, it contains the clutch pressure discs.

Carefully remove the decorative strip (http://prntscr.com/giaynv) and remove the slider guide.

Remove the worm stopper, unscrew the lid and take out the "tooth", and then remove the "worm".

The product is completely disassembled, rinse it, diagnose the damage and repair the inertial coil.

To carry out competent repair of inertial coils with your own hands, as well as inertial coils, you must first determine the cause of the breakdown, and do it correctly. Of course, after disassembling the product, you can clearly see the part that is out of order. However, the manifestation of certain symptoms of problems will most likely help to identify the failed part before the coil is disassembled.

Types of faults and their manifestation:

Internal noise. If extraneous sounds appear in the product during use, you should immediately stop using it. It is not necessary that the noise is caused by a damaged part; it can also be caused by dirt trapped in the mechanism. However, if the reason is not in the contamination of the product, then most likely the bearings are out of order. Then, in order to repair the fishing reel, it will be enough to replace the worn out parts.
Squeak in the reel. Constant creaking inside the body signals only one thing to the fisherman - it's time to disassemble the reel, clean it of old grease and process it with a new one. Determining which part or assembly is the source of the squeak is quite problematic. Therefore, it is better to carry out a complete maintenance of the product.
The line winds unevenly on the spool. Sometimes the following situation begins to occur - the line is unevenly placed on the spool, forming a front or rear cone. The fix is easy enough. If winding is done with a cone down, then it is necessary to remove one washer from the main shaft of the reel. In case of upward cone formation, the washer must be added.

In order for the product to serve you in the long term, you need to properly and carefully operate it, carry out periodic maintenance and promptly respond to any signs of deviation from normal operation of the coil.

Do not postpone the repair of spinning reels indefinitely - delay will only aggravate the state of affairs and accelerate the destruction of not only damaged parts, but also those that interact with them. This will lead to an increase in the cost of repairs or even failure of the product!

Let's take a look at the video of repairing fishing reels with our own hands with a few tricks:

Video (click to play).

Experienced fishermen do not advise disassembling and lubricating a high-quality new reel for 1-2 seasons. In the absence of problems, only light lubrication of the rotating parts is permissible to facilitate sliding. Also remember that some breakdowns can be avoided by knowing the rules for operating the reels - for example, after returning home from fishing, do not leave the clutch tightened, loosen it. This will help to avoid deformation and sticking of the friction discs during a long idle spool!

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