In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the Opel Astra ignition coil from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Repairing the Opel Astra N ignition module is only a temporary measure that a motorist can only do at his own risk, since the device needs to be replaced.
Is repair possible in principle? The Opel Astra H ignition module is a common problem for the owners of this car. You can often find discussions and videos about the malfunction of this node. Obviously, most of those who encountered the problem thought about the possibility of repairing a part. As a rule, repairs are less expensive. Let's figure out the intricacies of the unit and consider the option of returning the spare part to work.
The ignition module is a system that gives off the electrical charge necessary for the spark to appear on the plug. The operation of any ICE without this module is impossible.
The part collects electrical current in the required amount (up to 30,000 V) and transmits voltage to the spark plugs through high-voltage wires. Adaptations are:
- separate - a separate coil is supplied to each spark plug;
- block - the design (one module) is used immediately for a number of cylinders (this is exactly the option in the Opel Astra H).
Many people think that the module and the ignition coil are the same thing. This is partly true, because the ignition module is a consequence of the coil. However, the coil was integrated into earlier vehicles as the main unit. Now, the coil is part of the design of the part.
The module is controlled by sensors and electronic systems. Information from the internal combustion engine operation sensors goes to a special controller, which controls the ignition system.
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Video (click to play). |
Typical and obvious symptoms for which you should think about replacing or repairing the ignition module on the Opel Astra H are:
- Floating speed and engine "triple".
- Illumination of the "Check Engine" indicator on the dashboard.
- Carbon deposits on spark plugs. Appears from a weak spark (insufficient voltage) on the candle. In this case, the spark itself should be dull, bluish in color.
The reasons for the failure of a spare part may be:
- Poor quality fuel.
- Any voltage fluctuation up / down can damage the module.
- Closing the second winding. It is detected by checking the resistance between connectors 1 and 4, as well as 2 and 3 of the module. Deviation of readings from 5.5-5.6 KOhm is the cause of the short circuit.
The most common reason why a module fails on Astra H is a violation of the integrity and tightness of its case. In other words, a breakdown of the case occurs and a through gap (hole) is formed in it. In this case, it is required to restore the tightness of the module, but you need to understand that this is a temporary measure and in the future the part will still have to be replaced.
To dismantle the block, you must:
- Open the hood of the vehicle.
- Disconnect the battery terminals.
- Remove the blanking cover (labeled Ecotec).
- In the exposed space, there are contacts on the right. They are detached with a flat head screwdriver.
- We unscrew the two bolts fixing the module (TORX 40).
- We remove the device with a sharp but neat movement in the "up" direction.
Now you can insert a new unit and assemble everything in the reverse order, or repair the faulty one yourself.
In order to make repairs and restore the tightness of the body of the spare part, you need:
- Find a breakdown on the part body and inspect it carefully.
- Clean out and scrape the hole from carbon deposits with a burmashinka or scalpel.
- Drill deep into the area of the breakdown (preferably to the metal) closer to the candle.
- Clean up the breakdown zone.
- Fill the sample with two-component cold welding (eg Poxipol); epoxy will also work.
Next, the part is put in place, and the assembly takes place in the reverse order described above. The Check Engine will turn off while errors are cleared using the Opcom or EML diagnostic system. The whole process can be seen in detail in the video below.
Restoring the integrity of the module body is only a temporary measure and does not guarantee a repeated relapse. It is advisable to purchase a new node. However, troubleshooting should be known to every Opel Astra owner, since the problem is quite common, and it is not always possible to replace it quickly.
Description: Let's talk about Astra J.
ufo666 » 02.10.2016, 20:58
Well, I repaired the ignition module 
A small photo report. He is the first on this forum, but, I feel, not the last
When I removed the module, I saw this:
After reading the links offered in the next topic, I decided to repair it.
Armed with a drill with a drill, a knife, drilled and cleaned the breakdown to metal.
Then he filled the resulting hole with epoxy. The next day, after hardening, I sanded the protruding part.
With shaking hands, I installed the module in the machine. I connected everything, wrapped it up, etc. The decisive moment - started. The car behaved well, did not give any errors, the engine ran smoothly, did not twitch.
I decided to simulate a situation in which I got a message about ESP. Warmed up the engine and went to do household chores. An hour later he started up again and drove off.
There was no limit to joy from the feeling that the car did not twitch, it was picking up speed evenly. Ride for an hour and a half - everything is fine
Now I will observe how the repaired module will behave further.
Daddy cubed » 02.10.2016, 21:57
ufo666 » 02.10.2016, 22:37
project72 » 03.10.2016, 03:19
ufo666 » 03.10.2016, 06:04
Solik » 03.10.2016, 08:35
ufo666 » 03.10.2016, 16:48
Raafail » 03.10.2016, 22:49
Solik » 03.10.2016, 23:25
ufo666 » 03.10.2016, 23:45
Daddy cubed » 04.10.2016, 09:09
Daddy cubed » 05.10.2016, 09:37
ufo666 » 05.10.2016, 17:05
Daddy cubed » 05.10.2016, 17:34
ufo666 » 05.10.2016, 17:59
Daddy cubed » 06.10.2016, 09:08
ufo666, I was joking! I just think that electricians put their cable products into operation through high-voltage tests before launching them. which means they are using the proven heat shrink!
Added after 4 hours 24 minutes:
ufo666, I have 30 centimeters!
This is me shrinking!
Lies in the car - I'll bring it to the meeting.
Lunch time was successful: I took out the candles, smeared it with Permatex 81343 paste - a high-temp anti-jamming lubricant. 28g. (like a thick silver - got all my hands dirty). I put the candles back on. the module repaired by Delfy smeared with Permatex 81150 paste - dielectric grease 9.4 g (smelly like grease for battery terminals). Put it in the car, started it - it seems to work. I will go to a meeting - I will protest.
ufo666 » 06.10.2016, 16:15
Solik » 06.10.2016, 21:40
Raafail » 06.10.2016, 21:50
ufo666 » 07.10.2016, 07:53
Message Untermensch »28 Sep 2010 05:42
Even provided that relatively inexpensive coils appeared on sale, in the region of 4tr, they are made by the same plant with the same jambs, so having bought a new one, you can again get a replacement after a few tkm 🙁
In my case, it all started with jerks when picking up speed, especially on a cold one, and ended with a P030x error with the engine running on 3 cylinders.
After starting, the engine began to work smoothly, without failures, traction appeared on the bottoms, power returned, the error was dropped from the 5th start of the engine, but at the same time I traveled about 50 km, I don't know which is more important. Then I rolled to another city (which I was going to do during the holidays). The rebuilt coil has covered 500 km, while there are no issues. Boom to watch.
p.s. I forgot to say, if there is damage from a spark that hit the screen, this place must be completely ground off so that there are no traces left, if a lot is ground off, restore with epoxy. The trouble is that the scratch conducts electricity 😯 i.e. she calls with a tester in the region of 2-3 MOM, apparently the lightning is spraying pieces of metal from the screen along its path. 💡
Here is a photo of the damage from a spark past: 
p.p.s I drove 16tkm, everything is fine with this coil, however, after 14tkm, the coil of the 4th cylinder pierced, began to triple when starting off, and now it also pierced the coil of the 1st cylinder, even with the error P0301. Both the 4th and 1st were immediately modified in a similar way, and instability was also found in measuring the resistance of the last unfinished coil (2nd cylinder). Apparently I will do it in the near future. Now it takes 1.5 hours to rework with one coil together to fill with glue.And it follows from this that if you plan to drive more than 15-20 tkm on the machine, you should immediately redo all the coils so as not to drive and listen when the next one is covered. As for the candles, I will also say, the candles for the first time were 4tkm right now, 20tkm, the condition is excellent, the original is GM.
Yes, symptoms who need:
1. When you press the gas from XX on a heated car from 800 to 1100 rpm, the engine shudders (sausage) further accelerates.
2. When you press the gas from XX on a warmed-up car from 800 to 2000 rpm, the engine shudders (sausage) further accelerates more or less evenly, while consumption at XX falls from 0.8 liters per hour to 0.6 liters according to the BC. at one o'clock.
3. CE lights up with errors P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, depending on the number of the dead coil (4th near the connector), the flow rate at XX is 0.6..0.8 liters per hour since the revolutions are in the range 650..950 and practically do not stabilize.
In the first case, stages 1-2-3 lasted 3 weeks, in the second case I don't know, as I did with the first symptoms. In the third case, everything flew by in 10 minutes, i.e. 10 min. I drove normally, then it started shaking when starting off from a traffic light, and after 10 minutes CE was already on.
When opening at any stage 1, 2 or 3, a fat breakdown path flaunts on the dead coil, which, moreover, is called by the tester within 800-1000 kOhm (the working coil itself is called by my tester as 1.2MOhm and only in one direction).
1 localize the place of burnout
2 scrub off all the formed coal (for this is a conductor anywhere)
3 fill everything with epoxy
4 enjoying the flight and drinking vodka
Added after 13 minutes 29 seconds:
PS it's good that I didn't throw out the old module! Now I have 2
bad that from the beginning I bought a new one and then thought of the repair.
In general, Zafira B..od, not ASTRAvod ..
Zafira B 1.9 CDTI (Z19DTH - 150 + EDS) Black OPC Line Panorama.
Repair of a jammed rear wiper ASTRA H.
The service is provided at the location.
Good afternoon everyone, I have the same crap this morning, I have a car still under warranty, BUT! There is one point in doubt about the warranty:
p.2.4. The warranty does not cover:
p.2.4.11. Malfunctions of the fuel and exhaust systems due to the use of low-quality fuel.
On this point, doesn't it turn out that this case is not guaranteed?
Shl. Do not beat strongly if I confused the term.
ZYY. I would be glad if I am wrong.
Add more information to the 1st post so that a full-fledged report is
something like this or that
photos with more examples, Errors that are highlighted, symptoms, links to topics with discussions and the same photo reports, for example from here
this block recovery was discussed here
https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/750/forum/viewtopic. asc && start = 630
and here
https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/750/forum/viewtopic. 50216 & start = 60
Very extended photo reports from the Vectra club, including with photos from our modules (registration is required to view photos)
6896 & start = 120
The first breakdown occurs because of the candles (too large a gap) and the plastic burns out - change the output of the candle more often than 60k
Further breakdown occurs on burnt plastic and not by air, as many think
About cold welding - not any will fit
For epoxy - xs how reliably ordinary household epoxy will work, a high-temperature one may be required. experiment is indispensable.
I restore periodically high-voltage devices, although their temperature regime is not as extreme as in a car
the reason is usually a large gap on the candles, if it cannot pierce where it is needed, it pierces where it is weak
In theory, you need to transfer topics and draw up a header in them, and if you create new topics here, then there will be doubles in each section before. In my opinion, this is already the 4th or 5th topic where there is a discussion about the modules, and the 3rd where about the way to restore them
Request to the moderators to help with the systematization of the forum
Description: Let's talk about Astra J.
ufo666 » 02.10.2016, 20:58
Well, I repaired the ignition module
A small photo report. He is the first on this forum, but, I feel, not the last
When I removed the module, I saw this:
After reading the links offered in the next topic, I decided to repair it.
Armed with a drill with a drill, a knife, drilled and cleaned the breakdown to metal.
Then he filled the resulting hole with epoxy. The next day, after hardening, I sanded the protruding part.
With shaking hands, I installed the module in the machine. I connected everything, wrapped it up, etc. The decisive moment - started. The car behaved well, did not give any errors, the engine ran smoothly, did not twitch.
I decided to simulate a situation in which I got a message about ESP. Warmed up the engine and went to do household chores. An hour later he started up again and drove off.
There was no limit to joy from the feeling that the car did not twitch, it was picking up speed evenly. Ride for an hour and a half - everything is fine
Now I will observe how the repaired module will behave further.
Daddy cubed » 02.10.2016, 21:57
ufo666 » 02.10.2016, 22:37
project72 » 03.10.2016, 03:19
ufo666 » 03.10.2016, 06:04
Solik » 03.10.2016, 08:35
ufo666 » 03.10.2016, 16:48
Raafail » 03.10.2016, 22:49
Solik » 03.10.2016, 23:25
ufo666 » 03.10.2016, 23:45
Daddy cubed » 04.10.2016, 09:09
Daddy cubed » 05.10.2016, 09:37
ufo666 » 05.10.2016, 17:05
Daddy cubed » 05.10.2016, 17:34
ufo666 » 05.10.2016, 17:59
Daddy cubed » 06.10.2016, 09:08
ufo666, I was joking! I just think that electricians put their cable products into operation through high-voltage tests before launching them. which means they are using the proven heat shrink!
Added after 4 hours 24 minutes:
ufo666, I have 30 centimeters!
This is me shrinking!
Lies in the car - I'll bring it to the meeting.
Lunch time was successful: I took out the candles, smeared it with Permatex 81343 paste - a high-temp anti-jamming lubricant. 28g. (like a thick silver - got all my hands dirty). I put the candles back on. the module repaired by Delfy smeared with Permatex 81150 paste - dielectric grease 9.4 g (smelly like grease for battery terminals). Put it in the car, started it - it seems to work. I will go to a meeting - I will protest.
ufo666 » 06.10.2016, 16:15
Solik » 06.10.2016, 21:40
Raafail » 06.10.2016, 21:50
ufo666 » 07.10.2016, 07:53
- Like
- I do not like
The most important thing is construction. was reliable after renovation.
Remind - there, if the coils are divided, will they have at least one personal attachment to the lid? They rarely stop by, I don't remember how it was there.
something sawed very badly.
Did you get a stupid Bulgarian?
IMHO - cut with a grinder, and gnaw out the fill (drill, dremel, teeth) so that you can solder the wire to the tires.
If the separated coils have at least one attachment to the lid, then I don’t see any sense in labor costs for “sticking” into a monoblock - leave them separately on short jumper wires. Places of gouging / soldering should be filled with Poxipol or a sealant, you can also use a green auto-filler with fiberglass (the essence is the same polyester resin with a filler).
A guarantee for such a “product” would only be given on the quality of the soldering of the wires - who knows how long these coils can pass? Well, I would have announced the price for this in a couple of pieces.
Vit, I don’t know, our bastards are picky, give them a guarantee, like a new original. The collective farm is only its own permanent and without guarantees. Xs what's with the insulation inside the rest.
the day before yesterday I already sentenced the 5th in a year, on Astra N, when asking prices, people get sour, but they buy new. Nobody gave the old ones (the toad strangles them, chtol). And I didn’t ask, they’ll think that I’ll do chemistry ..
buy, how cute.
that is, took 2 coils? 2 controls for each, plus a common one? do I understand correctly? and how did you depict the tips? in the head which?
write, honestly interesting .. I wouldn’t think of it like that .. although for money from a non-original with work it should differ slightly ..
6 wires come to the GM coil: +, -, and 4 control. We connect 1-4 together, screw it down. to the 1st output of the coil 2111. Connect 2-3 together, feed to the 2nd output. Wires with candlesticks
Not a bad photo. Where is the best place to fix the coil?
Not a bad photo. Where is the best place to fix the coil?
To the right of the DZ near the computer I put it. Surprised - nobody practiced?)
I have been repairing modules with Z16XEP, Z16XER, Z18XER for a long time. Metal screens down with black and white under them, breaks more often at the seams, but sometimes in other places, for example, under the screen. I cut out black plastic in the place of breakdown and epoxy like plasticine rules. Sometimes 1 out of 10 comes across with an internal interturn, I don’t repair such.
The same song. These motors have tricky coils with built-in capacitance. What you call the “shield” is actually the outer plate of the capacitor.The inner plate is the high voltage part of the coil. This makes it possible to extend the duration of the spark burning from 1-2 ms to 3-4.
The most common breakdown in these coils is a breakdown from the output electrode to the outer plate of the capacitor (screen). If the coils are not available or the client is not ready to change it, simply remove the screen and check out the breakdown location. I don’t fiddle with an eboksidkoy, I roll up electrical tape to the place of breakdown. Customers do not complain about the behavior of the car, although the spark becomes like on a regular coil with a burning time of about 1 msec. The misfire error no longer appears.
I have not yet met such coils with interturn, but I think that repairing interturn is not an option.
Any gasoline internal combustion engine needs for its work a spark on the spark plugs that arises in a timely manner in each of the cylinders. Which ignites the previously injected fuel-air mixture, which allows you to direct its energy to the movement of the piston and, then, to the rotation of the crankshaft.
In modern engines, the ignition module for the Astra G is engaged in providing the necessary high voltage and its distribution, which usually works very stably.
By its action, this unit combines the functions of the previously used separately ignition coil and spark plug wires. This generally leads to an increase in overall reliability. In addition to the fact that the conductors going directly to the candles are in this case better protected from accidental damage, this design also implies a much simpler installation or replacement procedure when a malfunction occurs.
Most often, the ignition module on the Opel Astra Z16XEP fails due to the formation of a breakdown, which is usually caused by an increased resistance on the spark plugs, which means their untimely replacement or the installation of parts with incorrect parameters.
Video advice on how to repair the Opel Astra ignition module:
In any case, this situation will require urgent correction in one of the following scenarios:
- Acquisition of a new unit. Such a known reliable option is guaranteed to save you all the trouble and immediately return the car to full performance. Without forgetting to eliminate all the causes that caused the breakdown, however, it will create a problem of a different kind, expressed in the rather high cost that the ignition module on the Astra H Z16XER has, regardless of the manufacturer.
- Repair of a broken unit. On the Internet, if you want, you can find many guides proving the real maintainability of the node in question, which, of course, can help you save a lot of money. However, it will take time and will not give any guarantee for the result and duration of work.
In fact, the most rational solution in the event that the ignition coil on the Opel Astra G breaks down is to combine these two options.
This will allow you to get a known working new unit, as well as a repaired old one, which at any time can be immediately installed in case of a recurrence of the situation.
Keeping a repaired part in stock, you are guaranteed to be able to get rid of the unpleasant downtime of the car in the event of new breakdowns, and at the same time improve your repair skills yourself.
Video review about the Opel Astra ignition module:
