DIY 5m4 cauldron repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a 5m4 cauldron from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Resuscitation! We need resuscitation! Urgently!

It is with this phrase that I would like to start this story about the restoration of the hull of the Kazanka-5m3 motor boat.

The boat that came to our workshop, at the first stages of work, seemed to us in very good condition, despite minor flaws. After completely removing the paint, a huge amount of damage was revealed, which we will have to repair.

In the photo, This boat after the work on removing the paintwork.

In principle, the boat is in good condition, the geometry of the hull is in order, with the exception of small nuances.

But, since the ship was used for its intended purpose, and it was already many years old, there was, there was damage, and they were repaired as best they could.

As you can see, here the boat was leaking, a standard plug was torn off, and it was simply covered with sealant. They even tried to rivet the bottom and weld cracks in the keel, but unfortunately this was not done with a homogeneous metal, and these actions did not last long.

Also tried to brew a few more places:

This is exactly how aluminum D16 behaves when they try to weld it without preliminary preparation and with an unsuitable additive.

We are ready to share how the motor boat now looks like in the end.

Unfortunately, we cannot show you in more detail the painting and assembly process, so we will only show the final result.

Homemade cars, tractors, ATVs and ATVs

Restoration and repair of the boat "Kazanka": a detailed photo report of the work done.

After a long search, I found and purchased a boat "Kazanka" with wings, and, accordingly, decided to put it in order, repair, restore and paint it.

Video (click to play).

This is how the boat got.

He began to renovate little by little.

I covered the boat with primer - epoxy-based enamel (gray), then Mobihel metallic (blue-green) and varnished.

Poliki and benches were made of pine, then covered with Pinotext impregnation.

At the same time, he restored the trailer for the boat.

Now I'm looking forward to the opening of the motorboat season!

Homemade author: "071moroz". Nizhny Novgorod.

Construction and repair, mushrooms and fishing, home economics and health

Eh, my Kazanka is completely old. It served for more than 50 years for me and the previous owners, and now it started flowing - the keel in the bow and the guides at the stern were completely worn out.

The trouble is quite common and frequent, because river sand, and even water with water, is an excellent abrasive, and not everyone can afford a new boat.

Therefore, our boats serve for 50 years.

Repair is required - it is clear, but how and what is the best way to do it?

After a short survey, Internet searches and listening to very emotional pros and cons, three options were identified:

1. To glue with fiberglass with epoxy.

3. Cut off the stern and make a new one.

Since this boat is used by me only in the rowing version, for crossing to the island, I decided to go from a simple one, i.e. repair the bottom with fiberglass with epoxy resin.

This option turned out to be the most budgetary - money is always just barely enough, as well as the fastest - there is always too little time.

So, the first step is to prepare the foundation, i.e. remove all dirt, all old paint together with a primer, as well as touch up traces of previous repairs.

There are three ways to remove old paint:

1. Purely mechanical, i.e. with a scraper and sandpaper.

2.With the use of paint removers, but despite the encouraging instructions on them, they work very badly, and they do not work at all on the ground. Is that a compress to do for a few days. And the prices of these compositions bite.

3.Burn the paint with a gas burner. The method is the simplest and fastest, but during firing, the duralumin starts to play in such a way that it becomes scary - the rivets would not bounce off. So it is not worth keeping the burner in one place.

Since in this case the bottom of the boat was already well rubbed against the Volga sand, I did it in the first way - purely mechanical.

After preparing the base, we cut the fiberglass, depending on the thickness of the material - 4-6 layers. I did 6 because the fiberglass was very thin.

Now you need to prepare the epoxy.

There is one nuance here. After pouring the hardener into the resin, you need to mix the composition very slowly, if you mix it quickly, the mixture will turn out cloudy, as if saturated with air bubbles and its strength will decrease.

With slow stirring, the mixture will remain clear.

When the epoxy is ready, apply it with a brush to the surface, carefully smearing it, and apply the first layer of fiberglass on top. The fiberglass is very well impregnated with resin, but nevertheless some places need to be knocked out with a brush.

It is to knock out, not to miss. Just sharply tap bubbles and leaks with a brush.

Then the next layer of resin, but without smearing it, but as if spreading it with a very thin layer, a brush over the surface, and again glass cloth.

And so six times, after which, depending on the air temperature, you can forget about the boat for several days. I made repairs in early April, when the temperature was 5-12 ° C and “forgot” about the boat for two weeks.

After launching, the stern of the boat did not flow, which in itself did not mean anything, so I decided to wait a couple of months, or even more, before drawing any conclusions.

And here is a report on the condition of the boat at the end of June. While the "flight" is normal.

Now you can repair the bow of the keel, and then wait for the boat to overwinter, and then make final conclusions.

So this article will be continued.

I wish you all a successful renovation and successful fishing.

Brief report on the repair of Kazanka M.
Last year I came across such a Kazanka at a boat station.
According to the owner, it does not flow and the bottom is even)). The price of a miracle is 8,000 rubles.
I didn’t find fault or haggle (the owner was 80 years old), I bought it. Brought home and then it began.

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We need advice from an honest mind - there’s not enough of our own.
The crux of the question is this: we have a Kazanka boat of 78 g of release a couple of holes in the bottom, and an attempt to weld them BUT went a crack next to the weld seam, the former owner sealed everything with sealant from insulating glass units and forgot, but it still flows.
We also have a worn-out nose almost to the rivets through which it also leaks, a friend suggests embroidering and repairing, I propose to cook BUT metal duralumin and whether it is cooked or not, we don’t know - who says what and we are not welders. If you rivet, then you need special rivets, as I understand it, airplane rivets - no one knows where to get them.
Vopschem if anyone knows HOW to repair it by themselves or WHERE it can be done in St. Petersburg for reasonable money, or someone who has repaired it myself, I will be grateful for any advice.

If the Kazanka of the first issues (with or without boules), then it is not worth boiling the rubbed keel, there is a tikool tape, it will burn out. A worn keel can be repaired as follows:
Unfasten the epoxy glue, soak the women's nylon stockings with glue and push in as much as possible with a screwdriver, then grease so that everything is flush. In general, I covered up with poxipol.
And of course it is better to rivet the patches, but if you don't feel like messing around, you can put them on the bolts, you can pour sealant for aquariums under the patch, and the car will do.

Thank you! We will try to repair it ourselves - because there are not enough rivets.

quote: because rivets are missing.
And what kind of special rivets? Once upon a time it was necessary to make rivets from aluminum wire. It seems like no problem. The simplest methods.

Brake pad rivets may work if they are long enough.
Also a rarity today, but while they are on sale, I bought myself 2 sets of 4 mm rivets in stock.
It is also possible with the usual now - blind rivets, they are only weak, although the bottom had to be riveted, than the hole in such a riveting was repaired so that water would not flow into the boat, I don't remember.
The neighbor has covered the keel of the broomstick with cold welding, rubbed with ice in the bow, and has been walking without problems for the second year.

And it is not difficult to make rivets, I had a device somewhere, with the help of which I made copper rivets and nails of five or six different diameters. If you have material and a drilling machine, you can make such an adaptation in an hour.

REV Jul 31, 2008

My young friend, Maxim Borovik, bought a K-5.
Her condition. I must say, it was awful,
And now, under my careful guidance, he began its restoration.
The guy turned out to be with the concept, he wanted to go to the “SEA”.
I worked for 2 months, mostly in the evenings.
What came of it, look.
For reference, the cost of materials was 15,000 rubles, at 2007 prices.
I put on it a three-headed gorynych serpent, about 40 horsepower,
Yes, how I drove, by GPS, as much as 50 km / h, together.
Sincerely. Platonov. O.V.

Well, good work! The main thing is with your own hands and the owner likes it! Good luck to your young friend on the water!

Leonidan 15 Aug 2008

Question! And what they used to paint the new floor. As I understand it, plywood. How thick? Can I take a closer look at how the seats are attached to the floor?

Colleague, hello.
Floor - plywood 9 mm, at least, it should cause
a sense of security.
Unfortunately, there are no photos of mounts.
The floor is covered with BELINKA TOP LAZUR.
According to catalog N 23, color "MAHAGON", 4 times.
Then, with epoxy.
What is good about this composition - it gives volume and glows from the inside.
I have been using it for about 8 years and do not recognize any penatrexes.
1 liter, now costs about 320 rubles.
Very good color fastness.
Several photos of the interior decoration of my
my last boat "URAL"

Leonidan 18 Aug 2008

Denis Smirnov 30 Aug 2008

Stefler May 31, 2009

Since I can’t create a new topic for some reason, I am writing here, since my question is closer to this topic)))
There is a Kazanka 5 motorboat with an external transom, and there is a new YAMAHA 55 BEDC motor.
The boat will operate on the small sea (the bay of Lake Baikal).
How many times myself have I seen people with torn off transoms in cauldrons, with motors of lower power.
Now I can’t find literature on how to improve my transom. I ordered the book: “Improvement of serial motor boats Kazanka, Dnieper. "
I did not find the necessary information in it, except for the awning and seats ((((.
And yet, there is an ordinary cargo trailer, it is possible to make a trailer for a motorboat from it.

Help the people, since it's summer already, plus the session is coming soon, and then I definitely won't have time to make the boat.

Stefler Jun 18, 2009

I climbed everything, but for my "cauldron 5" I could not find a nifiga. For plastic only.

And another question, the boat was given for debt by one person. When they started looking for the owner, he died 10 years ago, his wife 2 years ago, and his son is in Moscow.
And we are in Irkutsk. Are there any loopholes in the law, how this can be circumvented. Or rather, to issue legal rights to it, in order to show figurines to the Ministry of Emergencies)))
Post has been editedStefler: Jun 18, 2009 - 01:36

I climbed everything, but for my "cauldron 5" I could not find a nifiga. For plastic only.

The topic of transom reinforcement is so hackneyed, on a motorboat in search, type “transom reinforcement of a kazanka” and you will be happy.
I can throw you a photo of any examples of amplification.
Here's an example

But not entirely correct.
The meaning of the transom reinforcement is as follows - to distribute the load over a large area of the hull. As a rule, in the stern they are tied into a single rigid structure with the stern of the rectangle type (frame) (corners, profiles, pipes, etc.). Studs (pipes) are already screwed to this frame. But many do not reinforce the horizontal direction, this is not true.
The stresses at cornering speed are substantial.
Here is an example of correct amplification

And that's not bad too

Stefler Jun 18, 2009

Stefler 20 Jun 2009

Good day everyone.
Two years have passed, another KAZ has been restored.
The technology has already been worked out, we walked along the knurled, but two and a half months,
in the evenings, I had to work hard.

Started 08 Jan 2010

Reading the forum, and myself realizing that if you do not correctly adjust the angle of inclination of the transom board, then the motor will not accelerate the motorboat to full power, which should be the correct parameters and measurements))))

There is no need to adjust the angle of the transom. It is necessary to adjust the angle of installation of the motor. The adjustment is on the motor itself, and the transom must be left at the same angle as it was during alteration and reinforcement, just adjust the height of the transom.

AlexeyPerm 21 Feb 2010

T-134 21 Apr 2010

I climbed everything, but for my "cauldron 5" I could not find a nifiga. For plastic only.

At the OVD at the place of residence I filed an application for the loss of documents for the boat - serial number, etc.
Received a certificate of type-not listed in theft.
With this certificate in GIMS (only another region in my case).
From GIMS with a ship's ticket.
In both instances there were "garters", but you can try without them, if there is no "crime" behind the boat.

Tatarstan Fishing and Hunting Forum

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Great job. Inspires. I also think Kazanka M will be restored as the next step.
Questions:
Not considered what rivets riveted the patches on the bottom?
From what and how did you bent the keel pad? Riveted on holes from old rivets or on top of them?
What kind of tape is this in the photo near the patches on the bottom?

And the nose rack is a necessary thing. It splashes heavily on the wave.

The motor boat under the name "Kazanka" 1, known for almost 40 years, which to this day is being produced by the Kazan Aviation Production Association (KAPO) named after S.P. Gorbunova, found herself in a unique situation. On the one hand, this is the most famous and most "promoted" brand of a domestic serial motor boat - a product that advertises itself. On the other hand, due to economic and production reasons, Kazanka has become a typical “entry-level” boat, whose consumer qualities are far from modern requirements.

It must be admitted that the latest modernization of its hull was successful and timely. The most popular model 5M4 model 1989 has a moderately keeled bottom with stamped longitudinal steps, providing a good combination of speed and seaworthiness, close to the level of such recognized brands as "Buster" and "Silver". And it is all the more offensive that the construction plant took a tough stance in its technical policy and did not begin to develop a number of modifications based on the basic model, which differ, say, in the composition of the equipment depending on the intended purpose of the vessel or the cockpit finish. Fortunately, there were enthusiasts who wished, in cooperation with the manufacturer, to put the fine-tuning process of a popular model on a regular basis. Let's call these additional works tuning, although this word generally means improving the equipment in accordance with the personal aspirations of its owner, and not correcting factory deficiencies.

The tuning company was the official representative of KAPO in the North-West under the stylish name “KAZANKA.SPB.-RU”, something very reminiscent of not only an address on the Internet, but also a code in the stamp of a factory drawing. The director of the company, Konstantin Chekhovskoy, can be considered the official holder of a certain know-how on the modifications carried out on the boat. Since “Kazanok-5M4” has already been produced quite a lot, and most of them most likely will not be able to receive “European education” from the hands of Konstantin, with his kind permission we publish some tuning techniques for a popular motor boat that are available to almost any boat with skillful hands (and such , presumably, not a little).

The list of weak points of the serial “Kazanka” is long, but finite. Let's consider it in detail.

1. Noisiness. A very significant flaw for a fishing shipowner. You drop a spoon on the metal body - all the salmon in the area scatters. The two-millimeter duralumin perfectly conducts sound, and the lightweight construction of the case does not contribute to its early attenuation in any way. The shocks of water jets on the bottom on the move are given as in an empty barrel, and this is all decibels of noise that reduce the level of comfort on board.

The disadvantage is eliminated by filling the free cavities under the floorboards and gunwale with two-component self-foaming polyurethane. Having a final density of about 50 kg / m 3, it also significantly improves the emergency buoyancy of the boat. Standard buoyancy blocks filled with ordinary polystyrene foam can hardly be considered a sufficient guarantee of unsinkability. It should be noted that this "white" foam is easily corroded by gasoline, and its main volumes in the boat are concentrated under the bow deck, and not at all at the stern, heavy from the engine. Polyurethane foam, on the other hand, is well resistant to fuel and microorganisms, it is firmly glued to the metal sheathing from the inside and effectively dampens vibration and structural noise during engine operation.

2. Reliability of riveted sheathing joints. All boats, upon delivery to the Quality Control Department, are tested for water flow. Nevertheless, life is life, the standard seam sealant - thiokol tape - is aging, and the rivets of the seam can become weak from constant blows of the bottom against the wave. A leak under the foam layer will not be detected soon, therefore, even before the sub-labial volumes are filled, all joints of the sheathing sheets are sealed with ordinary silicone, or better with an adhesive sealant.

3.Draining cockpit water. Factory painted plywood cockpit floorboards are water-permeable at the joints; The water that got into the cockpit flows into the hold and can stay there for as long as necessary, contributing to the corrosion of the hull. Optimal tuning presupposes the transformation of an ordinary Kazanka cockpit into a self-draining one. Parts of the regular flooring are replaced with similar ones, but made of special waterproof plywood with a textured non-slip surface, and all joints are sealed. The water from the cockpit flows through the scuppers in the aft part into the hold, but is removed from there overboard by an electric drain pump. According to Konstantin Chekhovsky, such a scheme has already proven its reliability in practice, however, in our opinion, it would be more correct to arrange a drain from the cockpit directly overboard through a drain hose and side or transom scuppers, and leave the pump in the hold just in case of emergency. You should not trust such a responsible matter as removing water from the cockpit of an open boat, a mechanical device that can fail at the most inopportune moment.

4. Low transom. The original boat is designed to use a “short” outboard motor. However, the maximum power allowed by the passport is 60 hp. - assumes that instead of two native "Vortexes" the owner may well use one imported outboard motor. At the same time, there is a high probability that it will not be possible to find a “short” motor of maximum power at once, a “long” motor with a 508-mm deadwood for a low transom is categorically contraindicated.

The situation was corrected by installing a new transom board with a height of 508 mm. The structure consists of a type-setting "pie" of bakelized plywood with a total thickness of 45-50 mm and an aluminum plate over the standard transom skin. The "pie" is pulled together by a dozen stainless bolts with oversized washers. Through the thickness of the board, drain scuppers are removed from the engine recession and the hold.

5. Steering drive. The factory delivery includes a set of steering wheel steering system, which is not interfaced with any motor. And the cost of interface parts, say, for Yamaha is so high that it becomes economically justified to completely replace the supplied steering drive with a separately purchased Bowden type, more compact and reliable. Moreover, the control post can be equipped both on the left and on the starboard side. The starboard post seems to be more preferable, since the propeller's reactive moment, which usually has a right-handed rotation, tends to heel the keeled boat to the port side, and compensating for the consequences of this roll with the help of the rudder leads to unnecessary additional fuel consumption.

6. Electrical equipment. The battery six-volt power supply system for the navigation lights looks like a hopeless relic of the past - in a situation when a constant voltage source of standard 12 volts and a hundred watts of power growls on the transom and thirsts for work. During the revision, the boat receives a new switch panel equipped with fuses in each circuit, and such a useful device on a metal boat as a "ground" breaker is introduced. When installing a motor with electric start from a battery, such a breaker becomes simply a necessary addition, which also introduces some element of protection against the malicious intent of the hijacker. All wiring is retracted in a plastic sheath, and the places of its passage through impenetrable bulkheads are sealed.

7. Painting the body. The body repainting, unfortunately, is also an integral part of the revision list. Factory paint is short-lived and comes off, as they say, after the very first navigation. The body must be sanded, the irregularities must be putty, and the casing must be covered with a layer of soil, followed by painting it with high-quality waterproof enamel. 8. Hardware and additional equipment. Nobility, as they say, obliges. Carrying out the full cycle of transforming Cinderella into a superstar, even the little things should not be overlooked.It is advisable to replace all threaded fasteners with stainless, acid-resistant A4 class. It is better to reinforce the attachment points of deck equipment - clefts, stanchions, etc. - from the inside with additional aluminum plates. All body holes for fasteners and scuppers must be sealed with sealant.

The luggage compartment in the bow of the boat cannot be considered a dry compartment until it is completely sealed. A soft rubber profile is glued under the cover, and the gaps between its walls are filled with sealant. Otherwise, one day you will find that the boat for some unknown reason begins to gain weight. This happens when the water has free access to the uncovered foam content of the buoyancy blocks. Don't give her the slightest chance.

Finally, the discerning owner may wish to equip his boat according to his own needs of a fisherman or traveler, since the choice of practical things and various "waterfowl" equipment is now greater than ever. For example, almost everyone wants to have a stationary fuel tank with a level indicator on the dashboard out of automobile habit. A plastic tank with a capacity of about 50 liters without question rises under the stern can, a conventional car float level sensor is mounted in it. The filler neck and the ventilation pipe are led out. The filling hose must be reinforced with a metal spiral to avoid static sparks when filling with gasoline. In the fuel compartment, air exchange must be arranged through the ventilation holes in the boat's recession, and the proximity of the battery requires this even more.

Video (click to play).

It is very useful to install polished stainless steel railings around the cockpit as well as on the bow deck. The standard seats, more reminiscent of metal furniture from the school cafeteria, can be replaced with comfortable swivel-lift chairs. It is better to replace the complete awning made of a simple “hebash” fabric of the army type with a higher quality acrylic one, with transparent “soft” glasses on all four cardinal directions. Popular installation of a folding outboard ladder as well as a lifting bracket for an auxiliary low power outboard motor. Fishermen are well aware of the advantages of an additional low-power drive - this is both comfortable trolling and a useful guarantee of returning from a hike to a deserted region if the main motor suddenly starts to go awry.

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