DIY Chinese watch repair

What does not bother anyone in the house is the clock, and all because they are on the wall. And there is always some benefit from them, serviceable ones show the time, malfunctioning ones give the interior comfort. Hang yourself and hang. Until the owners decide to change their place of residence. And then those of them who have a habit of stopping sometimes are thrown away. For housewarming, new ones are presented, but their quality is the same as that of the old ones. Therefore, I decided not to throw out my own.

This is a gift from the last housewarming, they are 30 years old. They show the time exactly, but they have one fad - they only work with a fresh battery (you need to change every four to five months, with two, even used ones, included in parallel, it takes much more than a year.

The assembly is of high quality, for example, the motor rotor (drive gear) has an individual mount on the board

I disassemble, clean everything, wipe it with alcohol, solder the contacts and even solder the screws to the board that secure the installation components on the other side. All in the hope that they will work with one, moreover, not the strongest battery.

I collected it, tried it - the miracle did not happen. Put two - go. I'll leave it that way, it didn't work out better.

And this is the mechanism of modern watches. China. They go on the condition that they need to be shaken every few hours.

I disassemble, clean, mine. But this is not enough here. It is necessary to understand the reason for the unstable operation of the mechanism. Soon the fairy tale has its effect, and in real time, for several days, I puffed my eyes at the device of this mechanics and fumbled on the Internet.

In the virtual space, I found a clue as to the cause of the malfunction, but a solution was offered there that was almost delusional. I had to come up with my own. And so in the photo, a metal scribe indicates a recess in the plastic, into which the upper axis of the engine rotor (drive gear) should be inserted. It is made a little deeper than necessary and, accordingly, the rotor dangles there, which leads to a stop of the clock at a certain moment.

I quite accurately determined the diameter of this recess, picked up the necessary drill (maybe even a slightly smaller diameter) and drilled it through. Then he took a piece of fishing line of a slightly larger diameter and, with the help of a small skin, grinded off the diameter of the fishing line just enough so that it entered the hole with some effort.

From the inside, I inserted a segment into the hole so that there was a very small depression for installing the rotor axis. I assembled the clock mechanism, installed the battery. The clock did not run, as the line rested against the rotor axis. Then, with small pliers, turning this improvised stopper (fishing line) from side to side, he pulled it out. Exactly so that the rotor axis is free and the clock runs. The end of the stopper was shortened with pliers almost flush

The clock has taken its place in the hallway and has been running without a single stop for the fifth month. By the way, such a clock from the network can be powered according to the following scheme. Babay mastered the novelty in watch repair technology.

This watch has a smooth running quartz movement (there is an abbreviation MPH 🙂), i.e. the second hand does not click loudly every second, but rather quietly rustles continuously. From the included salt battery, the clock quite accurately departed for 2 months. Well, I replaced it with an alkaline one and the clock got up in a month. Replaced again, again passed about a month. After the 3rd battery change, it became clear that something was wrong. Having checked the "dead" batteries, I realized that they are still alive. After consulting the nearest blogosphere, I found out that such mechanisms are not repaired and are easier to throw out.I scored until one day in Ikea I saw their cheapest model of watch and took it in my hands to see what kind of mechanism was there.
Here they are - the simplest plastic case and plastic glass, paper dial

Suddenly, the very same mechanism was installed in them, and on the sticker there was a mysterious inscription “Made in Belarus” = D

The price of the unit turned out to be something in the region of 250 rubles, I grabbed them gladly and rushed home to dissect. Swapped mechanisms. It is not difficult - the arrows are carefully removed from the stem, after which it is necessary to squeeze the latches a little and remove the mechanism from the case, assemble in the reverse order. The Ikeevsky version is disassembled in general in 1 minute, there is not even a single bolt there.

So, I assembled, put used batteries in both copies. Surprisingly, both went. I thought that when removing the arrows, he could fix something inside the old mechanism. But after about a month of working on a second-hand battery, the electricity zhor was drawn again.

The “repaired” Belarusian watch was running normally, the battery was not consumed earlier than it should have been. But I wouldn’t be me, if that’s where it all ended happily. Suddenly the watch refused to function in its natural upright position. Only horizontally! In this case, the mechanism revolves, but something has moved away somewhere. I both shook and knocked them, no, they do not go. Then I decided on an autopsy.

The autopsy was unsuccessful. The gears all got enough sleep and I spent the next half hour installing them back. At the same time, I did not notice any defects by eye. The engine was running, everything was turning. And in the assembled state, the watch still did not go.

Then for the 3rd time I went to the store for a watch and bought it. I unpacked it at home, there was another mechanism inside! I'm depressed. On the other hand, maybe there really were a lot of defects according to the previous model. Reassembled, hung up, everything works. The move is accurate.

And only then I suddenly googled. hand.zhpg

Much has come to light. To begin with, all mechanisms are universal, i.e. have the same size, but differ in the length of the stem on which the arrows are installed. This was done to allow the use of dials of different thicknesses, and it can also be provided for fastening to the dial with a nut for the stem. I even recognized one of the most common models of Chinese movements - this is JL 6262. Chinese shops during the crisis sell it for about 300 rubles apiece, that is. in pre-crisis times, the price was quite affordable. Here, I did not find anything except wholesale in boxes. One article advertised the GrandTime sweep mechanism in comparison with this JL 6262. For it, the scrap rate is stated as ≤0.05%, while for JL it is ≥4%, and the accuracy is 1-2 seconds per day. I wonder what percentage of the marriage I got. For working mechanisms, the operating time from an alkaline battery should be approximately 8-11 months and the service life of the mechanism should be approximately 6 years. Somehow not very much. I think many people still have Soviet clocks with discrete movements at home, which have been clinking for 30 years.

Thinking about the use of carcasses from Ikeev watches, I, without any special illusions, ordered a mechanism from the Chinese for a trial that cost less than $ 1 (this is already with delivery), but with a longer stem under the nut (you can hit a hand-made one). And not so long ago, this mechanism reached me.

The quality of the plastic is normal. For such a price, I generally expected some kind of horror. Suggest to use alkaline batteries

Stem thread

Plugged a truly Chinese mechanism into the IKEE watch

The first surprise - the mechanism was powered by an old battery, which I was about to throw away. But here is a slightly longer stem not completely retracted under the glass. When lightly pressed on the glass from the outside, the second hand stalled. I got out of the position not completely inserting the glass into the latches. And so it keeps pretty strong. So if you are going to change the mechanism, check if the length is enough for you.
The second surprise - the accuracy of this movement turned out to be higher than that of my Casio wristwatches!

Where to begin. Some notes from Bogdan J.

This is purely the experience of an amateur who has never been a professional watchmaker. Accordingly, all this is suitable for the amateur. A professional is dear to the school. They will teach everything there.

Start with Pinkin. Or from Troyanovsky. In general, there are books on the topic of clock repair. Download and print. Okay, there is no Internet - everyone will do it for you in any Internet cafe. You must have a book. It can get expensive but well worth it. This book is a guide for the layperson who should be able to understand at least something from this book. Almost our case. I have never done anything like that - and here it was.

Let's make some additions with the amendment for today for those who are pinned.

Screwdrivers. Start simple.

Chinese. I use it. I sharpen it. As for Chinese screwdrivers - look where on the streets watch batteries are changed and batteries and watch straps are sold. Or in the most ordinary households. A set of screwdrivers for small jobs.

You take a screwdriver. If it turns out to be too soft and bends when trying to unscrew something, put a candle next to the screwdriver. You heat the blade of a screwdriver and quickly into wax. This is hardening. Then you take a small stone and sharpen it along Pinkin.

More cool - in a machine on a diamond disc. But it will be later. When the tool and machines appear. Stones are well suited for finishing.

Tweezers (for starters - medical eye tweezers will do).

An alternative is to get acquainted with a radio bazaar (if Moscow - it seems Gorbushka - where they sell radio components, radio stations and computer gadgets) - see the boxes where the instrument is sold. You will be greatly surprised by the abundance. Good tools are surprisingly expensive. Tweezers shapes - see Pinkin. I'm not talking about big watch shops. They would rather be beaten than sold at a normal price. They do not want to breed competitors. And if they do, the prices are simply unrealistic. Doesn't fit into any gate.

There is also a radio bazaar - Galosha gasoline. Wash. It is much drier than kerosene and white spirit.

You take sticks (like Chinese) - finger length - to taste. You stick fishing steel 3-4 cm long into the end - it can be thicker and thinner. 0.1 - 0.15 mm. This is for the fishermen. One meter is enough for 10 years of work.

The very tip with one blow of a hammer (through a punch or a hard piece of iron) is splashed on a hard anvil. You get a little spatula. You make 3-4 of these with different blade sizes and different steel diameters. This will replace butter dosing. As anvils, I use either a roller made of a large bearing or carbide plates for a lathe - your way to the flea market or to friends in the workshop.

In approximately the same way - they will come in handy for a start - sticks with ordinary sewing needles - while the hands are frightened and there are no good tweezers - to expose the details (gears in stones, screws, etc.) is an auxiliary tool.

Surgical clamps. Different. Very handy as small and strong pliers. They are usually bought on occasion at a flea market.

Dental spatulas. It is convenient to use in all cases as an auxiliary tool.

Enema. Rubber. From the pharmacy. Big. Blow off dust. The tip must be rubber.

Butter. Or in the workshop (if they don't beat you, although they usually look like rams and pretend that they don't understand what you are talking about at all and are trying to get you off as quickly as possible). Or maybe at a radio store - in the same place where solder and acid are sold. Oil MN-30, MN-45 or watch oil. Although it is not aerobatics, it will go for a start.

It is better to keep it in a dark heavy box - and the sun will not burn and there is less chance that it will turn over.

To open the cases - a large, broken medical tweezers. It is clear that this is not kosher - but it is also possible. Likewise - an old caliper. You just need to correct the edges of the jaws - so that they are more rectangular.

Scalpel - opening of enclosures.

Binocular loupe. It is relatively inexpensive, but without it it is better not even to start. Or photographic goods (classic - where telescopes and binoculars are sold) or a radio bazaar. There are different strengths. If you have money, take two. One is 1.5 times, one is the strongest one sold - it seems up to 2.5 times. They can be sold with an elastic band - you will have to redo them to fit a hard bezel. You can go and talk to the optics workshop - glasses. Maybe they will offer something like pince-nez. Regarding ordinary magnifiers - to my taste - I rarely use them. It turned out to be extremely useful for cutting off the baby's nails - they were not visible at all for the first six months, but it was necessary to cut them off.

Binocular - microscope. Yes. Old. Look. The oldest is MBS-1. It is with a straight image - not upside down - which is what we see. It should cost within $ 50. A very useful thing. In every way. Up to the point that you rip the scrap out of your finger. But this is on occasion and over time. MBS-10 or OGMZ is steeper - the distance from the object to the eyepiece is greater, it is clear that it is more expensive. But all the same, an ordinary screwdriver does not fit under the MBS-10 - it must be shortened. Although on the Site of the Lytkarinsky plant - the manufacturer of MBS-10, there is a link that they sell lenses for MBS-10 with a distance to the object - about 19 cm.This can be a good solution if we got MBS-10. Everything between MBS-1 and MBS-9 is the same. Over time, the lens can be altered by yourself. You take what is cheaper. It's closer to the flea market. The only thing is that it is desirable that there is an illuminator (transformer + light bulb).

All that is further from the instrument - only after evisceration for 4-5 hours.

Where to get a watch - make yourself a fashion to be at a flea market - everything floats there. Often they simply sell mechanisms there. For instance:

When you warm up a little - after buying a binocular microscope - there is also a radio bazaar, shops with tools - they usually sell ultrasonic cleaners. But here is also the question - is it necessary. 50 years before that they did not use them - they took a bath and washed the parts with a brush in gasoline. You can do it, but the weight is not bad. Should cost in the range of $ 50-80. Denatured alcohol and Galosha gasoline were poured into an ultrasound of 30 watts. Working. Does not flash. Washes like a beast, but all the same, sometimes you have to rip something off with a toothpick. At the bazaar, they say that 30-watt sinks - indestructible - work without problems and there is no return due to marriage. If the model is the same as in the figure - what should be done after purchase - disassemble completely (there may be moisture inside, one of the indicators is stylish clicks when working against a background of uniform sound), squeeze the metal tank out of the case and put it back on the Auto Sealant (white , ours, not on transparent silicone). Plumbing does not work - it is highly corrosive. One of the indicators of plumbing is a strong vinegar smell.

Yes, I forgot, a flea market - look for Petri dishes - or maybe in a pharmacy or in a laboratory at a hospital. But you are not their client - there is an expensive flea market - this is the very thing. These are flat round glass or plastic low trays - for details. They are cheap. Take 5 pieces for the current dismantling works. I like glass more - they are heavier, fidget less on the table.

Then, for convenience, in the offices that make business cards, you can sometimes roll up and buy boxes for business cards. Wholesale will cost within $ 0.30 pcs. Transparent ones are also a very convenient thing - but this is for longer storage.

Silica gel. Small bags that are put into new fashionable shoes, equipment, computer components. Absorbs water. It must be dried either in the microwave or at a good temperature - in an electric oven. Gas does not pass - when the gas burns, water is released. After drying, the bag is placed in a box in which small tools and spare parts are stored for a long time so that they do not rust.

Radio bazaar. Snap-on pouches - they sell in the hundreds. Size 4 X 6 cm. Place watches and small items.They are usually packed with small pieces that are sold in the bazaar.

To begin with, the wristwatch can be laid down on the grinder mesh during disassembly. Then you yourself will determine what you need and how it is more convenient for you. The stand can be machined out of brass. Should be heavy enough.

Take a coil from any old starter from electricians - try asking for 380 V. If not, by 220 V. You attach the wires - the demagnetizer is ready. Turn on only for a short time - it gets warm.

About a new instrument. It is not always worth the money. Think how to get out with what you have. It is needed if you make a living with this and the customer pays for everything. If this is a hobby, then not first of all. Calculate the costs like this: I quit smoking (and drinking) and all the savings are on the tool. In this case, it is really a hobby and a useful pastime.

Now the steepness has gone. Machine.

Option 2. High-speed car. 10,000 revolutions. We sharpen with a diamond file. It may well be. There are eagles who did something in this way. But as for me - this is not very correct. If sharpen then sharpen.

Considering the above - if you do not sharpen the axes how to fry pies - then for a non-professional watchmaker-turner, it would be more expedient to take a small-sized precision universal machine. I would say that 20% of the work is axle turning (or even less), 80% is the turning of screws and body parts, various secondary milling work.

Examples I would name the following:

Collet chuck, native collets. On top is a milling corner. A part of the caliper is attached to it and we get a "milling cutter".

- new - Proxxon PD-230 / E, including a milling attachment or FF-230 router. Search on There they even have a price list in the power tool section - that is, they really do it.

Regarding the old MD-65. Axes 0.1 sharpens. Doesn't hit. Any additional clarifications are superfluous.

Now for the next topic. Okay. We got a machine. Well kva. We have a type of computer in the form of a processor, monitor and keyboard. But all this locomotive also needs software. Windows-2000 or Windows-XP and for tough peppers Linux will do. So, the fun begins. Software often costs more than hardware. It's the same story with machine tools. We need fixtures and additional tools. I think that an approximate set of additional accessories for the machine will cost no less than the machine costs. We are now talking about turning + milling. I ended up with MD-65 with a milling angle plate - a milling cutter is clamped in the machine chuck, and the support is turned over like a milling table, only a vertical one + milling vise. The arrows on it are milled. Cut the slots in the screws too.

- incisors - at least a hundred. Fits well in old wooden school boxes.

For precise sharpened incisors, old boxes from under grandmother's silver spoons go very well - incisors are more expensive than spoons, they will not break.

- collets and collet chuck. I have 2 sets - one is native to MD-65 (3-13 mm), the second set is Lorsch (hour, 0-6 mm).

This is in the machine, Lorsch in the adapter.

- indicators. 0.01 and 0.001. It is clear that various attachments are needed for them. Often you have to do the fasteners yourself.

- center detectors - 0.01. Without it, there is simply nothing to do on the machine.

- binocular microscope. Without words. We have already talked about this above.

- 4-jaw chuck. With split jaw release.

- sharpener - sharpen the cutters roughly

- diamond wheels - sharpen cutters precisely

- rotary vise (horizontal rotary system) - drill holes in precisely specified places. Screw holes in the rim of the transparent case back. It is hand drilled. It can be seen that the screws are jumping.

- dividing head. Or with discs or vernier. Cutting gears. Or at least make a square.

- I'm not talking about cutters. And end and for gears. The thickness of the disc cutters - from 0.1-0.15 - is the thickness of the "Neva" blade.

- the measuring tool is for rough work

- and for precise ones - only optics

- then you need to look at what is needed already for the work being performed. You will have to do a lot yourself. To invent a lot. Very often, for the manufacture of one part, it takes more time to make a clamp in order to clamp this part into the machine.

Foil trimming - making a "disk" arrow. Materials at hand.

Now the conversation is where and how to organize all this. It should be dry. Dust free. Not on the head of the family - the family should know that it is yours - and no matter what you do there - they have no entrance there. And there is nothing to howl about the noise from the workshop. Their comments are inappropriate (oh, it's dirty, oh, it stinks with gasoline).

One type I saw a German machine - the type of our school. More precisely, only pre-war. He mounted it under the kitchen table. In the center of the table is a shelf with a machine on it. The top board of the table rises - like in old school desks. He lowered the board, put the tablecloth in place and crumble the onion with the sausage. All the same, there will be no big turning works at home - everything is some kind of small piece.

If the conversation is about a large workshop or a more serious occupation in the restoration business for the soul, then in addition to the small machine, you need to look towards the larger machine - a school one (I don’t want to name the type - there are many different ones), a horizontal milling NGF-110 and a muffle furnace - this is for more rough work and the manufacture of devices. It is clear that all this also needs a trailer of devices and tools. Photo of the basement in the country.

If you can order or buy somewhere, look towards the rollers. They can be quite expensive. Sometimes they help out a lot. Especially in the manufacture of new parts, arrows and shims for lathe cutters.

As a conclusion, let's say this - this process is endless. In one sensible book on choosing a watch lathe, there was a good idea, completely applicable in our case - we are all mortal. All these tools are of interest only to us. Personally. There is no need to expect that someone after us will continue with fire in their eyes what we have begun. The whole instrument must be bought on the basis that after us, our grateful descendants die of all this rubbish and faster. They can also be thrown into the trash. They need a place for a geranium! We need to make sure that they can get more for it, slowly and confidently to all these numerous relatives and posterity, it is necessary to explain that all this is expensive and on this in distant times it will be possible to earn something. And accordingly, if you already buy, then buy a liquid instrument, which will have a price even in 50 years. This is on the one hand. On the other hand, we are all working now. We earn something. This is exactly the right time to prepare for yourself a range of activities for a time when our earnings will decrease, that is, retirement. Good luck.

This is the name of a wrist electronic-mechanical watch with a quartz generator (Fig. 9).

Rice. 9. Kinematic diagram of a quartz watch KNCH 3050:

9 - central wheel with a tube;

10 - stepper motor rotor;

11 - stepper motor stator;

12 - stepper motor tribe;

14 - second wheel with tribe;

19 - transfer lever with a pin;

The crystal oscillator is a highly stable oscillation source located in the electronic unit.

The block of a quartz generator is a printed circuit board with a quartz resonator, an integrated microcircuit and passive elements placed on it. The block is connected to the plate with screws. The actuator in the watch is a stepper motor made in the form of an autonomous unit. The battery provides at least 12 months of continuous operation of the watch.

The principle of operation and the kinematic diagram of the clock are as follows: the electrical signal of the quartz generator is divided by its frequency and, after the formation of the pulse, is fed to the stepping motor. The pulse repetition rate is 1 Hz.The stepper motor, in turn, converts successive electrical impulses into intermittent rotation of the main wheel system.

Through the wheel system, the rotation of the engine shaft is transmitted to the arrows and the calendar device (if any).

The stepper motor arm (12) meshes with the transfer wheel (13), the arm of which drives the second wheel (14). From the tribe of the second wheel through the intermediate wheel (15) with the tribe, rotation is transferred to the central wheel (9). The pointer mechanism consists of a minute hand tribe (8), a bill wheel (6) with a tribe, an hour wheel (7).

The conversion shaft (2) with the head (1) can take two fixed positions. If the watch has a calendar device, then the conversion shaft will be designed for three positions.

In order to translate the arrows, it is necessary to put the conversion head in the second fixed position. In this case, the cam clutch (17) must engage with the shifting wheel (16). Further, the rotation is transferred to the switch mechanism.

During the translation of the arrows, a locking lever, mechanically connected to the translation shaft, locks the translation wheel and prevents the movement of the wheel system and the stepper motor when moving the arrows. After setting the arrows and returning the conversion head to the initial position, the lever returns to its normal position, allowing the stepper motor to start.

Unscrew the locking ring and remove the housing cover.

Unscrew the battery spring screw, remove the spring and carefully, preferably with tweezers, pull out the element, taking it only by the cylindrical part of the body.

Next, unscrew the screws connecting the stepper motor, be sure to hold the ends of the conductors with tweezers.

Insert the battery into the mechanism and use a tester to check the functionality of the electronic unit.

The positive probe of the tester is connected to the platinum of the clock mechanism, and the negative one is connected in turn to the connection pins of the stepper motor. In this case, the arrow of the device should deviate to 1.4–1.5 V and oscillate within 1–2 mm with an interval of 2 s. If there are no such fluctuations, replace the electronic unit.

Then determine if the stepper motor is working properly. To do this, set the tester switch to the resistance measurement position.

Connect the tester probes to the contacts (outputs) of the stepper motor and measure the resistance of the coils, which should be within 3-4 kOhm.

Connect one tester probe to the clock plate, and the other to one of the stepper motor leads.

In this case, the arrow of the device should be in the left extreme position of the scale of the device. Repeat the same with a different conclusion. If, when measuring, the arrow deviates to the right, it means that the stepper motor coil is closed to the case. Such an engine must be replaced.

Remove the electronic unit. To do this, unscrew the screw securing the current lead, remove the insulating washer, unscrew the two screws securing the block to the plate, carefully lift the block with tweezers, move it to the side and remove it from the speakers.

Press on the support of the transfer shaft, pull the shaft out of the housing, and then the entire mechanism.

Remove the screws securing the stepper motor bridge. Remove the bridge, then remove the two screws securing the stepper motor and carefully pull out using tweezers.

When removing and installing the stepper motor, use only brass tweezers and only plastic tweezers for the power supply.

Next, disassemble the switch mechanism. To do this, you need to remove the hands, two screws of the dial, the dial, three screws, the bridge, the hour, bill and transfer wheel and the tribe of the minute hand. Then remove the calendar device, if present.

Disassemble the main wheel system. To do this, unscrew the screws and remove the bridge.

After disassembling the mechanism, cleaning the parts follows.All parts are washed except for the power supply, stepper motor, dial, case glasses, inserts, quartz generator block and painted hands. All of these parts, except for the stepping motor, are cleaned with a soft hair brush.

Install the central wheel with tube (9), minute hand tribe (8).

Press the central tube into the hole of the minute hand tribe, then check the smooth rotation of the central wheel, as well as its axial and radial clearances. Lubricate all center tube seats.

Assemble the wheel system. This is done in the following order: install the intermediate wheel (15) with a pinion, the transmission (13) and second (14) wheels with tribes and the axle of the main wheel system so that the brake of the locking lever enters the axle groove, fasten the axle with screws. Check the clearances of the intermediate and second wheel with tribes and the smoothness of the rotation of the system.

Assemble the translation mechanism. To do this, you need to install the transfer lever (19), the clutch lever and the cam clutch itself (17), as well as the transfer shaft (2).

Check the smooth rotation of the shaft in the plate, install the locking lever and lubricate all parts.

Install the minute wheel with tribe, transfer wheel, axle and fix it with screws.

Install the clock wheel (7).

Install the spring washer and dial. Screw down the dial with the screws and then install the hour, minute and second hands. In this case, it is necessary to monitor the position of the transfer shaft; when installing the hour and minute hands, the shaft must be in the position of the transfer of the hands.

Using the transfer shaft, move the hands to number 12 and set the second hand, matching its position with the divisions of the dial.

The minute, second and hour hands should be set without applying great force so as not to violate the established vertical clearances in the main wheel system.

Insert the mechanism, the mechanism fastening ring, the transfer shaft into the housing.

Install crystal oscillator block, stepper motor and power supply. Do not overtighten the stepper motor mounting screw.

Close the housing cover. After completing the assembly, the stepper motor should immediately start its work, this will be seen by the movement of the second hand.

Oversized quartz watch

As an example, we will consider the mechanism of an electronic mechanical table clock with a quartz resonator (Fig. 10).

Rice. 10. Structural diagram of quartz watch "Yantar" 59206:

3 - gearbox mounting nuts;

6 - screws for fastening the stepper motor;

7 - stepper motor tribe;

8 - screws for fastening the coil;

17 and 19 - intermediate wheels first and second;

22 - screws for fastening the electronic unit

The mechanism consists of a stepper motor, a main wheel system, a battery and an electronic unit.

The quartz clock generator starts working when the batteries are connected to the electronic unit. A stepper motor (9) is used to convert electrical energy into mechanical energy. From the tribe (7) through the first intermediate wheel (17) rotation is transmitted to the second wheel (20). There is a second hand on the axis of the second wheel. In order to set the minute hand in motion, the rotation is transmitted further through the second intermediate wheel (19) and the central wheel (15), on the sleeve of which the minute hand is fixed.

The movement from the central wheel is transmitted to the bill wheel (10), and from there to the hour wheel (12). The center wheel assembly is equipped with a special device that allows the minute and hour hands to be coordinated. To set the exact time and translate the minute and hour hands, a conversion shaft (14) is used.

To set the second hand to the exact time, use the second hand stopper (5).

Remove the cover and pull out the battery and terminals.

Remove the electronic unit (21); to do this, firstly, unscrew the two screws (22) securing the electronic unit in order to disconnect it from the speakers of the panel (13) and the bridge (4); secondly, disconnect the electrical connector.

Remove the stepper motor (9); to do this, unscrew the two screws (6) securing the stepper motor to the panel columns.

Unscrew the two nuts (3) securing the gearbox.

Remove the rear axle (4), second wheel (20), first (17) and second (19) idler wheels.

Remove the second hand stopper (5), front axle (18), center wheel (15), bill wheel (10), hour wheel (12).

Remove the spring (16) and the transfer shaft (14).

Remove the speakers (11) by unscrewing the two nuts securing the speakers to the front side of the panel.

Disassemble the stepper motor if necessary. To do this, remove the stepper motor rotor assembly, unscrew the two screws securing the coil and remove it. After disassembly, all parts of the stepper motor and gearbox, except for the coil, must be rinsed in gasoline. To flush the rotor axis of the engine, you need to remove the coils and the rotor, and the flushing itself should be carried out with the assembled magnetic circuits.

The main malfunction of a stepper motor, as a rule, is a break in the coil wire. In this case, repair is possible only if the outer end of the wire is cut off. The repair procedure is as follows: dissolve the coil varnish with amyl acetate near the broken end so that there is enough length to stretch the wire. Then use a soldering iron to remove the remaining wire from the terminal. Make 2-3 turns around this terminal and re-solder the wire.

Soak the brush in a mixture of alcohol and gasoline and clean the soldered area, and then cover it with varnish.

The most common faults in the electronic clock unit are the failure of the integrated circuit and the quartz resonator. These nodes are best replaced.

Defects in the main wheel system are corrected in the same way as in a mechanical watch.

Assembling and adjusting the watch mechanism

Install two columns (11). Place the spring (16) on the right column and fix its position with the stand pin. Then put the front axle (18) on the same column; the bend of the spring must fit into the groove of the bridge.

Insert the first intermediate wheel (17) into the axle hole with the tribe up. Put a washer and a spherical spring on the second wheel axle (20) and also insert the second wheel into the hole in the bridge.

Raise the second wheel slightly and install the second intermediate wheel (19) and stopper.

Install the rear axle and tighten the two nuts.

Place the main wheel assembly on the rear axle. Place the minute wheel on the front axle tube, and fix the transfer shaft (14) in the holes of the front and rear axles.

Put the bill wheel on the axle of the front axle, and the hour wheel on the hub of the minute wheel.

Install the panel (13) on the top of the columns, tighten two nuts.

Place the coil on the base of the stepper motor assembly and secure with screws. Install the motor rotor on the axle.

Engage the rotor tribe with the first idler wheel. Install the stepper motor and secure it with two screws.

Place the electronic unit in the corresponding slots on the motor and secure it with two screws. Insert two terminals into the grooves of the panel, check the contact. If necessary, the terminal tabs can be folded.

To test the operation of the mechanism, connect it to a power source.

How to repair a wall clock and replace the clockwork with your own hands, see my master class with a photo step by step.

I recently talked about how to replace the battery in an electronic wristwatch. Now I would like to talk about wall.

Now, you probably can't find a house that doesn't have a watch made in China or India. Wall Clock - this is an element of home comfort that practically does not change its appearance.The only thing that wears out in them is the mechanism.

And it often happens that after several years of operation, the appearance is in perfect condition, and the watch either stops working, or rushes and lags behind, or, which is typical of smooth-running mechanisms, literally starts to “eat up” the batteries.

It is a pity to throw out such a watch, especially if it had a high purchase price or is expensive as a memory. The most reasonable solution is to repair the wall clock with your own hands and replace the mechanism.

In the given example, we will replace the mechanism by replacing it from another (new, but barbarously broken) clock.

By the way, at any time point you can buy such a watch literally for a penny. At the same time, the advantage lies in the fact that if the hands from the “native” watch do not fit in diameter, you can safely install the hands from the broken ones.

We unscrew the bolts of the fastening strip holding the glass.

We carefully fold the unscrewed bolts side by side so as not to accidentally lose.

Remove the mounting plate along with the glass and carefully set it aside.

Carefully remove the hands in order: second, minute, hour.

Be very careful not to bend the arrows.

Fastening mechanisms are, as a rule, of two types. Either with a nut, as in the photo, or with latches.

We move the nut from the “dead center” with any suitable tool: pliers, round-nose pliers, or even side cutters, as in the photo. Then we calmly unscrew it with our hand.

I think everything is clear without words.

We extract the working mechanism from the broken clock in the same way. But in the photo, the mechanism is fastened with latches. It's even easier here.

Using a straight screwdriver, remove the mechanism from the latches. We also keep the hands, because there is a mismatch in diameters and we install the mechanism with its hands in the watches being repaired.

Since we removed the mechanism with a nut fastener, and put it in its place without it, the simplest solution would be superglue.

Apply a couple of drops in the places where the mechanism fits and glue the working mechanism to the body.

Using a suitable tool, I recommend squeezing the base of the arrows lightly so that they grip the axle more tightly.

We put in place the hands in the sequence: hour, minute, second.

To avoid an error in the course, we set everything exactly at 12-00.

Before installing the glass, be sure to wipe its back surface, and then, holding by the edges, put it in place.

Then we put the glass retainer in place. Gently turn the watch over and screw the bolts into place.

After the watch is assembled, we check with the adjusting wheel whether the hands intersect with each other. DIY wall clock repair is finished.

If everything is in order, we return the watch to its rightful place.