DIY toilet flush valve repair

In detail: DIY toilet flush valve repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

If you have problems with the cistern, it is not necessary to call a specialist at home. Try to independently determine the cause of the breakdown and eliminate it. Most often, it is enough to simply inspect the inside of the tank and replace the worn out parts. How to independently repair the drain tank, we will consider further.

The cistern makes it much easier to flush the toilet with tap water. At the same time, the comfort of being in the toilet is significantly exceeded. Water flows from the water supply into the cistern, which has a filling and drainage mechanism. The first version of the equipment accumulates water inside the tank to a certain level. Next, the water supply valve is closed.

After pressing the drain button, the drain mechanism starts functioning. Water, in a certain amount, begins to be absorbed into the toilet bowl, flushing it and entering the sewer system. That is, the principle of functioning of the flush tank is based on the alternate functioning of the drain and collection system.

In order to quickly and efficiently repair the toilet cistern, you should familiarize yourself with its main components. The first and main element is the water filling valve, which adjusts the water level in the tank after it enters the toilet. Float - allows you to control the amount of water in the tank.

Initially, the first flush cisterns consisted of a rocker arm made of brass, on one part of which there was a float, and on the other a valve with a rubber gasket, which shuts off the water supply to the cistern. All parts of the overall system interact well with each other. In modern variations of cisterns, the location of the float is not horizontal, but vertical. At the same time, the process of water flow to the tank is accelerated, and the valve is located in its lateral part.

Video (click to play).

Some old models of cisterns have a special pear that seals the free space. After tightening the lever, water flowed to the toilet.

Most modern flush cisterns consist of an armature that connects the filling and overflow systems. For its operation, you must press the button, which is located on the toilet lid. At the same time, the button has two components, pressing one of them, water enters the toilet in a small amount, while the second button provides a better drain.

Plastic parts and rubber gaskets are used as reinforcing components of the cistern. If you need to replace them, each part can be purchased separately at any plumbing store.

There is also an overflow on the drainage mechanism, which protects the tank from overfilling it with water. If there is an excess of water in the tank, then it will never pour out of it, the drain valve will open and it will gradually drain into the toilet.

Also, when starting to repair an old cistern, you should familiarize yourself with the types of cisterns. In relation to a button or lever for draining water, cisterns are:

side - relevant for tanks installed on the wall, to drain water in such a tank, you need to pull the lever;
upper - a button or two buttons are located in the upper part of the toilet exactly in the center.

In order to improve the aesthetic appeal of the bathroom, in some cases, the installation of the flush button is carried out separately from the cistern and toilet bowl.

In relation to the material from which the cistern is made, the following options are distinguished:

a cast iron cistern - it is practical to use, but it is losing popularity, due to its large weight and modern materials that are more convenient to use;
faience cistern - they are of the highest popularity, such cisterns complement a faience toilet well, differ in shape and color, and fit well into any type of interior;
plastic cisterns - differ in affordable cost, most often they are produced in the form of a flat shape.

In relation to the installation method, the cisterns have:

upper mounting option - the tank is installed high on the wall, an additional pipe is used to connect it to the toilet, which are quite rare in modern use;
installing a cistern in the wall is a rather complicated process, for which it is necessary to equip an additional niche in the wall, however, this variant of the cistern saves usable floor space;
most often, the cistern is installed on the toilet shelf, in case of any malfunctions, it is possible to quickly access the cistern and fix them.

Initially, if problems arise with the operation of the drain tank, it is necessary to carry out a visual inspection. The most common cause of these problems is the float. In this case, it does not come to repair.

If water continuously flows into the toilet, while filling the tank again, then it is necessary to remove the lid of the cistern and visually inspect the float. With a slight bias, it may simply not work. Also, old rubber seals may not adhere tightly to the drain system, causing water to leak.

First, try to fix the float and fix this problem. When filling water to the limit, without stopping, it is necessary to replace the float.

If there is a worn seal in the cistern, it is necessary to press the valve against the drain device, if water continues to drain into the toilet, then you should take care of replacing the seal. It is possible to add additional weights to make the seal heavier.

If the integrity of the float is broken and its gradual immersion in water, the water in the tank will fill it above the required level. In this case, it is necessary to replace the fittings in the drain tank.

In order for the fittings to fit to your cistern, remove it from the cistern and take it with you to the store. After removing the reinforcement, pay attention to every detail, perhaps it is enough to replace one of the damaged elements and not buy the whole reinforcement.

In relation to the type of piping to the drain tank, there are several types of fittings, so it is better to take it with you to the store. If the inlet is located at the bottom, then to replace the fittings in this case, follow these steps:

turn off the water using a special tap installed next to the toilet;
unscrew the button and remove the cover on the drain tank;
disconnect the liner, remove the drain part of the tank, first the upper parts, and then the lower ones;
unscrew the fasteners on the drain tank;
install the tank on the toilet, unscrew the fasteners that fix the second, lower part of the fittings;
install the new fittings in the tank and assemble it according to the same principle as it was disassembled.

The process of replacing the toilet fittings lasts no more than twenty minutes, and you do not need an additional tool, it is enough to use pliers and standard keys.

In the process of performing repair work with a drain tank, you will need tools in the form of:

pliers;
adjustable wrench;
flat and Phillips screwdrivers;
rubber gaskets;
silicone based sealant.

Quite often, the reason for the appearance of problems in the operation of the drain tank is precisely the inlet valve.With its help, the water supply to the inside of the tank is regulated using a special lever system. In relation to the variant of the toilet, this mechanism is installed in the side or bottom of the cistern.

If a malfunction occurs with the inlet valve, the water in the tank will overflow. In this case, you need to perform the following actions:

try to lift the float up all the way;
if, in this case, water does not flow, then it is necessary to change the height of the float, tighten the stem;
clean the inlet valve from dirt and sediment, but before that it is necessary to turn off the water, to clean the valve, use an old toothbrush, collect it and check the operation of the mechanism.

With the help of these tricks, most often it is possible to solve the problems that arise in the process of using the cistern. However, if the problem remains unresolved, then it is most likely necessary to replace the inlet valve on the drain tank. In relation to the type of tank connection, select a new mechanism. There are universal devices that fit any type of toilet.

If there are problems with the leakage of the toilet, then in this case it is necessary to pay attention to the following factors, such as:

tightness of fixing the cistern on the toilet;
inspect the rubber seal for mechanical damage or wear.

Initially, tighten the bolts that secure the cistern to the toilet. However, do not tighten them too tightly, as there is a risk of damage to the toilet and cistern. If the leak persists, then remove the tank and replace the seal located on the drain channel. Also, it is recommended to replace the washers installed on the tank. For all joints, use a silicone based sealant.

Repair of cisterns with a bottom water supply is more difficult to carry out. They also have leakage problems from a worn-out seal, in the place of water inlet. In this case, the seal is also replaced and it is fixed with a sealant.

Repairing the flush tank valve also helps to fix the problem with the flush tank. Valve - provides dosage and transportation of water to the toilet. The principle of functioning of the toilet is that when water is supplied, the float is raised to the desired level, and then the water flow is shut off. In the process of draining, the float is lowered and ensures that the water is drained into the toilet. If you see a rusty strip inside the toilet, then the reason for the breakdown is the float.

We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the main types of malfunctions associated with a breakdown of the float valve:

1. Outdated gasket - in this case, water constantly flows into the drain tank. To get rid of the problem, it is enough to replace the damaged element of the tank.

2. Rust on the saddle - this problem is caused by the constantly flowing water into the tank. In this case, it is recommended to replace the entire valve. However, it is also possible to install a gasket made of a denser material.

3. Lack of integrity in the float - some valves are made of plastic or steel. In this case, if the integrity of the float is violated, it fills with water inside and does not rise up, blocking the water. In order to fix the problem, follow these steps:

flip the float;
replace the float valve.

4. When the axle part on the lever is worn out, the piston is seized and insufficiently pressed, while water is constantly transported to the tank. You will need a nail to troubleshoot. However, if the lever has too large defects, then it is recommended to replace it.

5. If the stop valve is damaged, then the repair of the toilet cistern with a button is carried out using a stopper from a plastic bottle. In this case, it will serve as a new persistent cap.

There are two more common problems with the operation of the cistern, these are:

high noise level during the operation of the toilet;
malfunctions with the drain start button.

If by pressing the button, the water in the tank does not drain, then in this case, it is necessary to check the chain connecting the drain mechanism and the button. Try to loosen the fastening on the button, maybe the problem will be solved.

If a strong sound effect occurs during the draining process, then to eliminate it, put a plug on the part specially designated for it in the drain tank. Most often, such problems arise when operating tanks with a side supply of water. If, after performing all the manipulations, the noise from the drain remains at the same level, then in this case, we recommend buying a special float-type system with a stabilizing chamber. This version of the system is distinguished by its quiet operation.

Since the drain tank has a rather simple design, even non-professionals can repair it. The main thing is to correctly identify the problem and fix it in time. Remember, any equipment needs periodic preventive maintenance. Only in this case, it will serve you as long as possible.

Repair of toilet cisterns video:

Now it is difficult to imagine how people could live in a house without a toilet. But today the bathroom should also be equipped with the most modern equipment, otherwise you will not get ease of use and comfort. In any bathroom, the toilet is given a central place. At the same time, the drain mechanism is slightly different for different models, so special attention should be paid to the trigger device - the flush tank valve, which we will consider in more detail today.

What is a toilet flush shut-off valve

There are only two types of toilet flush mechanisms that stand out depending on how they are put into operation:

Single-mode - there is only one key or button that you need to press to pour water from the tank into the toilet.
Dual-mode - the device consists of 2 halves or two buttons. One serves to drain half of the water from the tank, the second opens the mechanism for its complete emptying. The second name is the flush tank valve with 2 buttons.

A third type has also been developed - with a stop function. It is equipped with one key, but the water can drain in different ways. To regulate it is necessary to press the button several times. For example, with the first press, you open the water, and with the second, you shut off its descent.

Push-type toilet flush valve design

Used to supply and discharge water.

The devices are of the following types:

Croydon valve - consists of a shell, an axis of the lever on the float, a saddle and a piston, its price is the lowest. The lever moves perpendicularly, dragging the piston with it. The system is usually used in old cisterns, which are extremely rare today.
Valve with piston - equipped with a lever axle, which is fixed in a bifurcated cotter pin. Movement of the lever in the horizontal direction sets the piston in motion, which periodically touches the seat, which allows you to regulate the water supply to the tank. At the end, it has a seal, which, in contact with the seat, blocks the flow of water. This valve model is widespread today.
Diaphragm valve - instead of a gasket, a rubber or silicone membrane is used in the design, which displaces during the movement of the piston. Thanks to this, at the right time, it can shut off the incoming water flow. This type of device is the newest and most modern, usually used in the latest models of cisterns. Below we will consider precisely its design features and the device of the mechanism.

The device of the valve of the toilet cistern of a modern design

The float diaphragm valve allows you to quickly draw water into the tank.
Noise or silent filling depends on the quality of the selected fittings.
With its help, you can very quickly turn off the water, unlike previous models.

Of the shortcomings - the instruction requires only a constant pressure in the water supply network for the normal operation of the device. Its parameters should be 0.05-0.1 MPa. In addition, the purity of the water plays a special role, otherwise the valve will quickly fail. Alas, in most cases outside the city these conditions are often not achieved.

Repair of the toilet flush valve begins with its disassembly

The next point that cannot be ignored is the quality of the locking and fittings. The material for manufacturing must be of high quality and defects are not allowed in its production, otherwise the life of the products will be significantly reduced.

The device will have to be changed often, because repairs will not help in this case. Making a new membrane with your own hands is unrealistic.

Piston type toilet flush valve diagram

The inlet fittings of the tank have their own principle of operation, which must be dealt with before carrying out work on its repair or replacement.

Let's take a closer look at the process below.

In the photo - opening the shut-off valve and draining the water

Water is not drawn into the tank or the supply is not cut off:

This is usually due to a blockage in one of the holes.
The second option is failure of the membrane or stem.

Tip: you need to disassemble the device and look at all its elements that need to be cleaned and rinsed.

Another reason for such malfunctions is low pressure in the water supply system or its surges during the day. The device may also not work because of this. (See also the article Plumbing pipes in an apartment: features.)

If the pressure is too low, water does not enter the tank at all. For example, in a suspended structure, it will not even reach the filling chamber. The float will float, but the flow will not block.

The design of the shut-off valve for the flush-type toilet bowl

Advice: as an option, increase the water inlet holes by reaming them by 2-3 mm.

Also note that the smaller these holes are, the greater the pressure in the system should be. This knowledge is especially useful when installing a toilet in the country. In case of constant surges in water supply pressure, we recommend purchasing fittings with a stem valve. (See also the article Connecting the toilet to the sewer: features.)Today, the device of the drain valve, which is used in the toilet cistern, was considered, the reasons why the equipment can fail. With this knowledge, you will be able to cope with these problems on your own. The video in this article will provide an opportunity to find additional information on the above topic.The most common problem in bathrooms is a faulty toilet cistern. Sinking buttons, slow filling of the storage tank, incessant water leakage from an overfilled tank. All kinds of malfunctions do not happen. These situations can arise for a variety of reasons. To reveal the true cause in each individual case, it is necessary to dismantle the cover. After determining the nature of the malfunction, you can perform a simple repair of the toilet cistern with a button with your own hands, without resorting to the help of plumbers.We unscrew the drain button by hand, rotating it counterclockwise. No tools are required for this operation. We take out the button and carefully remove the cover.Inside the drain tank there are two mechanisms, in the details of which there may be a malfunction that causes a leak:

drain mechanism;

a shut-off valve responsible for the flow of water from the water supply into the container.

We carefully examine the drainage mechanism, assessing the height of the water level. If the water is in the overflow area, then this indicates that it does not hold the locking device.The water in it is above the float, and therefore reaches the drain channel, through which it is drained into the sewage system.If the water level is at the adjusted height in the shut-off device, then the leakage is caused by a malfunction of the valve in the drain mechanism. There are two main reasons for this.Water flows above the overflow device, which means that the drain valve is in working order, and the problem lies in the locking mechanism. We make a drain, freeing the container from water. We close the water supply valve to the system. We remove the drain mechanism device by turning it slightly counterclockwise. We take out the removed part from the container, inspect the condition of the sealing rubber ring, which is the shut-off valve of the drain mechanism. We are convinced of its integrity. We put it aside.If this is not the case, then remove the ring and rearrange it with the reverse side, thereby ensuring a tight fit of the rubber to the surface of the bottom of the container. You can immediately install a new O-ring purchased from a plumbing store.The second problem: the formation of plaque, the accumulation of mucus on the surface of the shut-off valve, which violates the tightness of this system. You can eliminate it by cleaning the part from layers. Rearranging the ring is very simple. Remove the plastic lock washer. Take the rubber part, rinse it thoroughly, then turn it upside down and press it with a washer installed in its original place.We turn off the water supply system and the locking mechanism. There are tanks with lower water supply and from the upper one, located in the side wall of the tank. The inlet hose is connected and the valve is at the top. The type of connection does not play an important role, since the malfunction is directly related to the state of the shut-off valve. Grains of sand, rust from the water supply system can get under the valve, which violates the tightness of the locking ring.In addition, the valve itself can be deformed during long-term operation. A manifestation of this is a specific recess formed on the sealing gum. A part with such damage can no longer restrain the flow of water from the water supply system.

Let's remove the mechanism that controls the water supply to the container. To do this, unscrew the large nut by turning it counterclockwise.

We take out the removed device from the tank, temporarily putting it aside.

Consider a membrane that serves to reduce the pressure of the water coming from the system.

We rinse the sealing ring taken out with the membrane from the inlet pipe.

Next, we proceed to disassemble the shut-off valve body, which was put aside for a while.

First of all, we snap off the float and remove it.

Then we remove the body of the float itself, moving the tongue that fixes the position of the part in the tank to the side.

Then we disassemble the valve installation site. To do this, take a screwdriver, pick it up on both sides, pulling out the valve with a "pull" movement.

We examine the socket from which the valve was pulled out, and we see a small hole, which it should close tightly when the tank is full of water.

The deformed valve looks like a miniature rubber band, in the center of which a recess is squeezed out, the size corresponding to the size of the hole letting water into the tank.

During the first repair, this elastic-flap is turned over with the other side, which is smooth and even.

When repaired again, this gum-valve is cut with a sharp clerical knife strictly in the middle. First, the first deformed part is placed in the socket, and then the second - with the smooth cut side up. Thus, one valve can be used three times, each time turning the parts with an even surface towards the hole through which the tank is filled with water.

You can reinforce the valve with an additional piece cut from dense foam.

We put the valve back into place in the socket, securing it by pressing it until it snaps into place.

We assemble all the parts in reverse order: body, float, installation on a branch pipe, fixing the device with a swivel nut.

The valve, when raised, should extend the float 1 cm above the body in which it is located. It is in this position that it is necessary to fix the position of the float by snapping the locking mechanism.

We install in place the second part that closes the drain hole in the tank. With a sharp clockwise movement, we fix it in place. A characteristic click should sound.

We open the tap and start the water supply system. We follow the process of filling the tank, paying attention to the moment of the shut-off valve actuation, which has been repaired. As soon as the water poured into the body of the float and raised it by 1 cm, the water supply to the tank stopped. We put the cover in place, and fix it with the water release button, twisting it along the thread of the drain device part until it stops in the clockwise direction. We look at the result of the repair work. There is no uncontrolled flow of water from the cistern in the toilet. The water meter has measured, confirming that there is no water intake from the system. We will make a control drain to once again be sure of a positive result of the repair. The problem was fixed by hand. Money is saved by eliminating the need to purchase a new drainage mechanism and shut-off valve.You can learn more about repairing the flush mechanism of a toilet cistern with a button in the video.

The toilet bowl in every home is an element of everyday life, without which it is simply impossible to do. It is used much more often than all other plumbing fixtures. That is why it fails more often than other devices. And its most vulnerable component is the tank, which consists of several internal components. Their mechanical damage, as well as careless handling of the tank are the reasons for this device to lose its performance. In this article, we will look at how to repair a toilet cistern with a button on your own, without calling a team of plumbers.

All cisterns have a similar design. The only difference is in the mechanism for starting the water.

Structurally, a toilet cistern with a button or two buttons, as well as a drain lever, can be represented as a set of interacting units:

Filling valve... He is responsible for maintaining the water level at a certain level. The valve is controlled by a hollow float. When the water rises to the desired level, the float closes the water supply channel to the tank;
Plastic float fixed to the filling valve. Works on the principle of a rocker, rising when filling the tank;
Drain valvehaving an overflow system. Modern variants of the tanks involve the control of this valve by pressing a button. When manually controlling the drain of the old model, it is enough to pull the lever or chain to start the water into the toilet;
Overflow is an obligatory component of the tank. It is height adjustable so that the water level is set to a limit. When this level is exceeded, water flows through the overflow pipe into the sewer without pouring out through its walls.

The main structural elements and the principle of operation of the mechanism are the same for all types of cisterns, only their implementation differs

A mechanically drained cistern is very simple to operate. Water enters it through the filling valve when the float is in the lowered position. After reaching a strictly defined level, the float shuts off the water supply. The drain is controlled manually. If the tank is equipped with buttons, then the water is drained after pressing them. In this case, the drain valve opens partially or completely, allowing water to flow into the toilet. The float is lowered to open the filling valve.

The structure of the toilet cistern with two buttons is a little more complicated, but you can use such a cistern more economically. If you press one of the buttons, the water is partially drained. Full drainage occurs when the second button is pressed.

Increasingly, you can find new types of tanks that have bottom water connection... It is advisable to install them if the use of the side connection is impossible due to lack of space. The main difference between such a tank is the presence of a diaphragm valve... Under the action of the pressure of water in the pipeline, the valve opens slightly and allows water to pass inside. When the water rises, the float presses on the piston rod, which gradually closes the diaphragm valve. When the set level is reached, the valve closes completely.

Fittings with bottom water supply and push-button control

Drainage malfunctions may well lead to the loss of the toilet bowl of its performance. For many, such a sudden breakdown can be a real natural disaster. In addition, no one will like the increased water consumption.

Read about what a hygienic shower for a toilet bowl with a mixer is and what types it is in a separate article.

And how to choose a pump to increase water pressure and in what situations it is needed, we described in another article on the site.

What kind of breakdowns are typical for cisterns? Let's list them in order of frequency of occurrence:

1. Water leaking from the toilet to the floor... Most often, water flows through an O-ring located between the bottom of the cistern and the toilet shelf. If the ring is cracked or warped, water will seep through it. Also, the place of leakage may be the gaskets of the fastening bolts with which the tank is attached to the shelf. They will have to be replaced if tightening the bolts fails. It doesn't matter if the old-style toilet cistern is being repaired or a modern system is being repaired. After all, they all have the same fasteners.

A high-quality sealing ring of the drain tank is the key to its good sealing.

Tip: When replacing gaskets and seals, it is recommended to lubricate them with liquid silicone to extend their life and prevent cracking.

2. There is a constant flow of water in the toilet... Most often this is due to an overflow of the tank, in which water flows out through the overflow tube. This can happen due to a change in the overflow height, a loose fit of the float to the shut-off valve, and the loss of its tightness by the float. The rubber seal on the drain fitting may also be worn out. Most often, the malfunction can be eliminated by adjustment. When the locking gasket is worn out, it is advisable to replace the entire drain mechanism.

3. Starting mechanism malfunctions... If you are using a push-button water supply mechanism, when you press the button, water may not flow into the drain. You will be able to repair the drain tank fittings with your own hands, since, most often, the lever mechanism that connects the button with the drain breaks. This also applies to tanks with a handle or chain.

4. Noisy filling of the tank... This happens due to the disconnection of the tube through which water is poured into the tank. This is typical for cisterns where water is supplied from the side. When the tube has fallen off, the noise of the incoming water will be clearly audible. To fix the problem, remove the top cover and install the tube on the fitting.

5. Water does not enter the tank... Repairing a toilet cistern with a button or with other flush mechanisms in the event of such a problem comes down to checking the inlet to the cistern. It is necessary to remove the valve from the tank and clean the inlet with a thin steel wire and rinse it with water.

Many people who are accustomed to old-style cisterns do not know how to fix a toilet cistern with a button. In fact, the differences between these systems are very minor. For many, the main problem is disassembling such a tank. Indeed, the button located on the tank lid requires careful handling during disassembly. But the device is very simple to understand.

To adjust the float, just raise or lower it slightly

Would you like to know how to choose a bath mixer with shower? You will find the answer in our separate article.

And if you are interested in how to install a shower cabin with your own hands, then we also have material on this topic.

Before buying a water filter, we recommend that you read our tips for choosing them.

The tank with bottom water connection uses a diaphragm-type filling valve. This can cause problem with filling the tank with low pressure in the water supply system... The water pressure may not be sufficient to depress the valve and fill the tank. If your system constantly maintains a low pressure, then it is better to replace the diaphragm valve with a rod analogue.

Another common problem is water leakage at the inlet to the supply valve reservoir. Its location is such that the valve is constantly under water. In case of insufficient tightness of the joints, the presence of leaks is practically guaranteed.

Repair of the toilet cistern with a bottom water supply is carried out after shutting off the water supply and removing the cistern lid. After that, the problem is eliminated according to the same algorithms that are described for repairing models with buttons.

We have figured out how to repair a flush cistern with a button, with two buttons or with a mechanical control. They differ slightly, mainly in the design of the control mechanism. The general principle of operation and repair is the same for all considered devices.

The video shows the do-it-yourself repair of the toilet cistern, or rather, the process of replacing its fittings.

Video (click to play).