DIY classic repair

Contents: Installing the front speakers Expanding the speaker system with the rear speakers.

Contents: We insulate the VAZ-2107 Interior treatment Modernization and improvement of the stove Insulation.

Contents: Prestarting heater Types, features of work Installation of equipment on a car.

Contents: Some nuances Antifreeze heater 220 V Heating device.

Contents: Longfei heaters. Design features Models and their characteristics “Little.

Contents: Types of heaters, features of "Alliance-2-PC" "Alliance" "Alliance -07" "Alliance-08" etc.

Contents: Viscosity Oil type Gear oil Video - What kind of oil is in a car.

Contents: Theory "on the fingers": how everything works Control light C.

Contents: Battery features Selection parameters Types Capacity Starting current Polarity.

Contents: Timing features Stages of work, tools Preparatory work Sequence of adjustment.

One of the design features of the gas distribution mechanisms of VAZ engines of classic models.

Contents: A little theory When you need to bleed the brakes Tools Work.

Contents: Detonation - what is it Detonation and glow ignition.

Contents: Preparing a car for the winter period Starting the engine with a carburetor.

Contents: Vacuum brake booster Master brake cylinder Caliper device Device.

I installed HBO on my Vaz for a long time, and all this time I monitored the gas level "by the odometer". Sometimes I had to open the trunk and look at the arrow. But I wanted everything to be human. I have a carburetor car, and a second generation HBO. There are many different gas level indicators on the market made in the form of a series of LEDs. A friend has one. It seemed to me uninformative, and I decided to assemble an adapter that would allow synchronously displaying the gas level on the petrol fuel level indicator.

And so, the topic is for those whose cars, for any reason, do not have the rear window tinted and who experience discomfort when driving at night on the highways and in the city due to the backlighting of the headlights from behind the cars.
Enough tolerating this!
There are several solutions to this problem: you can simply tint the rear window or tint the mirror itself. I think that there is no need to explain all the disadvantages of this method. It so happens that I have no tinting and the mirror does not have a day / night mode switch. Therefore, it was decided to install a salon rear-view mirror from a foreign car with automatic dimming.

To begin with, I propose to consider the principle of operation of a conventional standard forced idle economizer system on a VAZ-2107 with an OZON carburetor and a standard EPHH control unit. To understand why we need this system and whether we need it at all, since many simply cancel this unit by directly connecting +12 volts from the ignition to the solenoid valve and hello, that there is a valve, that there is no one. So, we quote the murzilka:

Automatic opening and closing of the trunk on the VAZ-2107 from the alarm key fob.

Not everyone is aware that there are at least three types of gearboxes on the VAZ classics. And 4 types of rear axle gearboxes. And they all differ in their traction and speed characteristics. And by combining these components and assemblies, you can make a traction horse, a high-speed car, drift cramps or a universal car for all occasions from the classics. In this article, we will tell you about what types of gearboxes are found, how they differ, and what can be achieved with one or another combination of them 😉 Boxes are 2101, 2105, 2106.Gears (1st, 2nd, 3rd) are shorter in 2101 than in 2105, and longer in 2106. Reducers are available with a gear ratio of 3.9, 4.1, 4.3, 4.44.

Dear friends. It has long been no secret to anyone that the stock reversing lights on the VAZ-2107 are not very bright, the bulbs are 2x21 watts. clearly they do not cope with the task set by him, and if the car is also tinted and the lights are a little "tired", then reversing in the dark is very difficult.

I think that almost every classic driver on a carburetor classic is faced with the moment when the gas pedal starts to jam at the very beginning of the stroke. This introduces some inconvenience - it is impossible to move very smoothly - because when you lightly press the gas, the pedal jammed and the car stalled, and if you press harder, the gas pedal slips over this “sticking” section, but the speed increases sharply and the car starts to twitch.
As an option in such cases, I used pre-gas. But sooner or later you will get tired of accelerating before every start-off! Interestingly, when the carburetor rods are disconnected, nothing sticks anywhere in the carburetor itself. In the same way, the gas pedal itself does not jam when the rods are disconnected from the carburetor. But everything is assembled - the pedal wedges a little and that's it.

Here is the promised description of the process of installing a cable gas pedal with Solex 21053 under the engine 2103 (maybe someone will come in handy)

Let's start by explaining why I needed to do this.
The fact is that when the Solex is installed on a classic, the gas pedal drive has a lot of backlash, which is why the correct operation of this whole mechanism is not observed. when the cable is installed, the fuel is supplied adequately by pressing the gas pedal, without jerking or failing.

An excellent video channel for owners of Russian classic Zhiguli. Operating tips, repairs and many other useful videos are laid out specifically in order to make life easier for the happy owners of not expensive cars. An excellent and high-quality informative video about the repair of the chassis, electrical equipment, power unit and body is a kind of manual for car owners.

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This section publishes articles on the repair and maintenance of cars of the brand Vaz-2101, Vaz-2103, Vaz-2104, Vaz-2105, Vaz-2106, Vaz-2107, Zhiguli... All materials contain a detailed description of the work done and are supported by photographs. Also, in each article you can familiarize yourself with the list of the necessary tools and devices that will be needed to complete the task. Plus, you can remember the tips for choosing high-quality and reliable spare parts.

Since recently in the section on car repair VAZ 2101-2107, Classic, Zhiguli quite a lot of thematic articles have been collected, navigation through the pages of this section has become a little inconvenient, which can cause certain difficulties for site visitors in finding the necessary material. To avoid these difficulties, to facilitate and speed up the search, I suggest using the section site `s map... I think that you can easily find your way there)))).

Several proven ways to solve the problem that occurs during the replacement of the lower ball joint on cars VAZ 2101-2107, Zhiguli, Classic

If you are reading this text, then it can be assumed that the work on self-replacement of the lower ball joint on your favorite Zhiguli (VAZ 2101-2107) suddenly “stopped”. And the reason for the stop was ball pin nut, which, due to unclear circumstances, refuses to unscrew. Simply, stupidly rotates with the support finger. After that, a natural question arises - “How to unscrew the nut and remove the lower ball joint? “And if you have a question, then you should look for an answer to it.I hope that you will find it on the page of "Auto Repair Schools")))

Replacing the steering column switches (tube) on Vaz-2101, Vaz-2102, Vaz-2104, Vaz-2105, Vaz-2106, Vaz-2107

The main reasons to replace the steering column switches or, as this part is also called tube on cars VAZ 2101-2107 are: faulty switch contacts (turns do not work, high or low beam headlights do not work), mechanical wear of the petal (spring-loaded contact) of the sound signal, breakage of the lever or control levers (sometimes one awkward movement is enough and the lever cannot be glued to the steering column switch block). I think everything is clear here. And, I dare to assume that if you are reading these lines, then at least one of the problems / breakdowns listed above happened with the steering column switch on your car. If I'm right then.

A small article supplementing these materials with useful information - replacement of crosspieces on VAZ 2101-2107 cars and tips for choosing and checking crosses for VAZ 2101-2107... It will focus on how to quickly determine which brand of propeller shaft is installed on your car. Which, of course, will help to give a final answer to the question: Which crosses to buy - Vaz 2101-2202025 or Vaz 2105-2202025? I think that every happy owner of Zhiguli asks himself a similar question, at least once in his life. And therefore, I hope that this material will be useful and in demand.

Recommendations for the selection and inspection of cardan shaft crosses for cars Vaz-2101, Vaz-2104, Vaz-2105, Vaz-2106, Vaz-2107

I invite you to read a small article, the purpose of which is - assistance in the selection and verification of the suitability of the driveshaft crosspieces of cars Vaz-2101, Vaz-2104, Vaz-2105, Vaz-2106, Vaz-2107... Visitors to my blog convinced me of the need to write this article. How? Yes, very simple. In a fairly short period of time, by email, through the “Question-Answer” section and the feedback form, I received several similar questions from them - Which manufacturer's crosspiece to choose for my car? What high-quality and reliable crosspiece can be put on the Vaz-2103? What to look for when buying crosspieces for the drive shaft for the Classics? What is the difference between the Vaz-2101 crosses and the Vaz-2105?

A few days ago, I received two requests at once from visitors to my blog to write an article to replace the rear brake pads on the popular and invincible Classic... Even, I myself was somehow surprised that with a large amount of materials for repairing VAZ 2101-2107 cars, there is still no article on replacing the rear brake pads on the page of your favorite blog! Therefore, it was decided, in the shortest possible time, to correct the annoying oversight and satisfy the requests of the blog visitors “Auto repair school“. In general, please meet.

And so, the reasons why you should start replacement of rear brake pads on cars Vaz-2101, Vaz-2104, Vaz-2105, Vaz-2106, Vaz-2107, Classic - the thickness of the lining of the rear brake pads less than 2mm , the lining of one of the pads has come off the metal surface (brake pads are always changed as a set).

Replacement of brake discs and front brake pads on cars Vaz-2101, Vaz-2104, Vaz-2105, Vaz-2106, Vaz-2107, Classic, Zhiguli

Continuing the braking theme))). This time we will talk about replacing brake discs on the beloved and not submerged Classics. I will not stretch out the introduction, I will immediately get down to business. The reasons why you should go to the car market, buy discs, pads and start replacing them. The first reason, brake disc thickness less than 9mm ... The second reason is the appearance of beating in the steering wheel and vibration in the chassis when the car stops. This is usually due to uneven wear or deformation of the brake disc. Yes, you can try to grind the disc. But, a trip to the turner will be justified if, after cutting the disc, you do not return to the first reason. So, if there is a beating during braking, it will be easier, faster, and ultimately cheaper to buy new brake discs.

How to independently remove the rear brake pressure regulator on cars Vaz-2101, Vaz-2104, Vaz-2105, Vaz-2106, Vaz-2107, Classic, Zhiguli

In the “Question-Answer” section, I am often asked similar questions that can be collected into one general topic - a problem with the rear brakes on cars VAZ 2101-2107, Classic, Zhiguli... Yes, this is exactly the problem, despite the fact that the braking system of the Zhiguli is not complicated and, as it might seem, any breakdown can be solved with a simple repair. But, suddenly, the car's brakes become ineffective or the rear wheels, in general, stop braking, and it is also possible to wedge one rear (in some cases both) wheels for no apparent reason. Standard actions, in the form replacing the rear brake pads, brake cylinders and parking brake cable with subsequent bleeding of the brakes does not solve the problem.

Replacing the ignition lock or contact group on cars Vaz-2101, Vaz-2104, Vaz-2105, Vaz-2106, Vaz-2107, Classic

Ignition lock (ignition switch) on cars VAZ-2101, VAZ-2104, VAZ-2105, VAZ-2106, VAZ-2107, and if it's easier to say in folk classics, they usually change in two cases. The first is the failure of the secret of the castle. In this case, the key turns with difficulty, wedges and may simply refuse to turn. Funds in the form of VD-40 or brake fluid usually give a temporary result. Therefore, replacing the ignition switch is inevitable. The second reason for replacement is burning of the contact group (photo 1). If the contacts on the chip are burnt, it will be quite difficult to start the car, you can turn the key to the “start” position two, three, four times and not hear the sound of the starter. To check, you can take the "control", connect one end of it to the negative terminal on the battery, and connect the other to the small terminal on the retractor relay or to the 50 wire connector chip. In order not to explain for a long time, look at photo 1A.

Hello everyone. We have repeatedly talked about the ignition coil on our website VAZ Repair. Today we will again raise the issue of a malfunction of the ignition coil and tell you how to determine the malfunction of the coil, how to check, and also to replace the ignition coil on a VAZ 2107 with our own hands.

An automobile gasoline pump (fuel pump) belongs to the fuel system (power supply system) and is one of its main units. The fuel pump in a car performs the same function as the heart in the human body - it pumps, that is, it pumps fluid

Fog Lights (Fog Lights) allow the driver to overcome poor visibility due to fog, rain or snow. What threatens a motorist with poor visibility, I think, is not worth talking about, this is understandable. In principle, foglights do not need an introduction, almost everyone knows about them.

The parking or handbrake (handbrake) is designed to lock the wheels when the car is parked, and is used most often on uneven road sections (slopes).

In my previous articles, I have already talked about how to replace a fine filter using the example of Lada Kalina. Today I return to this topic again, but this time we'll talk about how to replace the VAZ 2107 fuel filter.

Before removing the VAZ 2107 generator, it is necessary to clearly understand that this work belongs to the category of more complex ones. Sometimes withdrawal is quite problematic, so before proceeding, think carefully about how you will do it and using

Old VAZ models, as a rule, were equipped with carburetors of the brand: Solex, Weber and Ozone, their popularity has not decreased over the years, but rather, on the contrary, has increased. However, like everything in this world, over time, carburetors fail and

Every owner of a domestic car VAZ 2107 should know how the car's suspension works. The undercarriage requires periodic maintenance, which includes the replacement of worn out elements.You can do this work with your own hands if you know how to properly remove or install this or that part. In this material, we will tell you in detail about this.

VAZ 2107 is the last car of the domestic automaker, produced according to the classic layout, that is, with rear-wheel drive. Many Russian motorists prefer rear-wheel drive cars, so the so-called seven is still popular today. The car's chassis consists of a front and rear suspension. The front one has a fairly simple design, so everyone can cope with its periodic repairs.

In front, the VAZ 2107 suspension has an independent design and consists of two levers: one on top, the second on the bottom. There is also a coil spring and a telescopic shock-absorber-strut. The suspension has an anti-roll bar.

The lower arm is firmly bolted to the axle with an axle, and it, in turn, is supported by the front spars. The upper arm is attached to the mudguard strut, but the lever has no axle of its own - it is a long bolt that runs through the strut.

To ensure the rotation of the levers around the axis, silent blocks are provided in the design, which are rubber-metal hinges. At the ends of the levers there are ball joints, to which a steering knuckle with a trunnion for installing the hub is attached. The coil spring is located between the mudguard post and the lower arm. So that it does not budge, the ends are installed in the support cups. There are hydraulic shock absorbers inside the spring. The shock absorber housing is attached to the lower arm via a rubber-to-metal hinge.

The shock absorber rod is attached to the body via rubber pads. The anti-roll bar is attached at the ends to the lower arms of the chassis, and in the center to the side members. To exclude contact of the side members with the stabilizer, rubber cushions are located between them.

The malfunctions of the VAZ 2107 suspension include wear of the rubber suspension elements, and ball bearings can also wear out. Sometimes during operation, springs and shock absorbers fail.

You can repair the front suspension of a VAZ 2107 with your own hands in a garage, but first you need to diagnose its condition. Drive the car to an inspection pit or overpass, and during inspection, determine the condition of the rubber elements, check all the gaps in the ball joints and make sure there are no oil leaks from the shock absorber, and also check the integrity of the spring.

To check the condition of the shock absorber with your own hands, you need to firmly press the wing of the car from above, achieving compression of the shock absorber. Then let go and notice how the car behaves. The shock absorber should instantly take its initial position without unnecessary hesitation. If the struts are heavily worn, the machine will wobble and have to be replaced.

To replace the ball bearings, it is necessary to dismantle the wheel and clean the suspension elements from dirt. After that, substitute a jack under the lower arm and raise it - this way you load the VAZ 2107 suspension.

Using a wrench, unscrew the nut of the upper ball joint pin, and then press the pin out of the steering knuckle. As soon as the finger comes out of the fist, unscrew the ball mount and remove it from the upper arm with a protective boot. Instead of the old ball, insert a new one and reassemble everything in the reverse order. The lower ball is changed in the same way. After replacing them, contact the service center to adjust the camber and toe, as you will not be able to do this on your own.

To replace the silent blocks of the VAZ 2107 with your own hands, you will need not only keys, but also a special puller. If they are in the upper arm, it will have to be completely dismantled, and in the case of the lower arm, this is not necessary. To remove the upper arm, press the ball joint pin out of the steering knuckle.Next, remove the bumper mounting bolt and unscrew the nuts holding the upper arm axle, and then remove it. Remove the upper arm from the machine.

After that, using a puller, you need to pull out the worn out silent blocks, and then use it to insert new ones. The installation of the lever is carried out in the reverse order, but to install the ball bearing pin, you need to load the suspension with a jack placed under the lower lever.

To replace the silent blocks of the lower arm, it is not necessary to remove it. Just unscrew the nuts of the lever axle and remove the hinges with a puller. Then put the new ones in their places and tighten the nuts. It is necessary to remove the lower arm if it is damaged, but this is rare.

When the shock absorber struts wear out, they have to be changed. If one of them breaks down, you still need to change them in pairs. To replace the shock absorber, first unscrew the stem securing nut, and then remove the washers and the upper rubber cushion from the stem.

Unscrew the lower strut mounting bracket from the lower arm, and through the technological hole in the arm, pull out the damaged shock absorber. Then remove it from the mounting bracket and install the new stand in the reverse order.

To replace worn or damaged springs, the shock absorber must be dismantled and disconnected from the stabilizer arm. Further, the nuts that hold the axis of the lower arm on the cross member are loosened. Jack up the lower arm, but do not load the suspension. Remove the ball joint pin with a puller.

Next, gently lower the jack by loosening the spring. Using a spatula, it should be removed from the lower support cup. Before installing a new spring, it is compressed with special ties so that it fits into its place.

The new spring is installed in the lower support cup, and then, using a jack, the lower lever is pushed upwards, which will allow its ball joint to be inserted into the steering knuckle.

After fixing the support, remove the ties from the spring. Assemble other parts of the suspension in reverse order. As you can see, repairing a VAZ 2107 with your own hands is not very difficult work if you follow our instructions.

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Renovation of classics. vaz 2101. Broken and rotten. The video uses music from the music library - YouTube.

Tazobudni. We change the wing, threshold, amplifier, connector, amplifier and sub-rails. Greetings to you on mine.

Economy class body repair without welding. Cheap and fast car body repair. Let's say NO to welding, but samor.

Do-it-yourself VAZ 2107 seat repair, I show you about replacing the locking mechanism on the seat. Attention with this.

Thank you all for watching and "likes". Thanks to your attention and support, the channel is constantly evolving.

replacement thresholds on Zhiguli vaz kassika self-repair.

Diagnostics, check and repair of the VAZ generator. Also fixing additional charging problems. 0:04 -.

DIY repair of a VAZ 2107 gasoline and diesel engine. Video instruction how to clean it yourself.

Since you are reading this article, it means that you still decided to reinforce the body on your VAZ 2101. It doesn't matter what prompted you to this responsible and time-consuming process: deformations from impact, car tuning, or simply “combing” your hands, one thing is for sure - the price of repairs will pleasantly surprise you if you do all the repairs yourself.

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Before we start tuning the body of the VAZ 2101, I consider it necessary to take a closer look at this most important part of our vehicle.

So, the body of the VAZ 2101 is a rigid spatial truss made of steel, which consists of sequentially assembled, non-separable elements:

The base is a trough-shaped, one-piece stamped panel with a tunnel in the center. The tunnel has two functions:

1. Protects the elements placed in it from damage (in our case, the cardan shaft is located in it);
2. Increases underbody resistance to torsion / deformation, like welded side members * along the base.

Spar * - stamped steel bar with a box section.

In the front, they are combined into a single whole:

• Front spars serving as power elements carrying the front suspension with a power unit;
• Front shield;
• Panel;
• Wings;
• Mud flaps.

The rear also houses mud flaps and a luggage compartment panel.

The left and right side panels consist of interconnected outer and inner panels:

• The outer panel consists of the rear, front and middle pillars, the sill and the rear fender;
• The inner panel contains many power elements (rack amplifiers, etc.).

And finally, reinforced with cross members, the one-piece stamped structure is called the roof of the car.

The elements of the body body are made of stamping, from thin sheet steel. The low weight, high strength and durability of such a structure fully meet the basic requirements of the functionality laid down in it.

Further, to this resulting one-piece welded body, its removable elements are mounted:

• Trunk lid;
• Hood;
• Doors;
• Front cladding;
• Decorative items, etc. accessories.

But there is no need to flatter into third-party "jungle", we will continue the conversation about strengthening the body of the classic VAZ.

With a slight stiffness of the body, with sharp maneuvers, the effect of "steering feeling" disappears, the steering becomes, as it were, "smeared". This is a consequence of the fact that the car body twists, deforms, and the suspension does not work properly because of this.

Long-term deformations cause metal fatigue, weld seams gradually deteriorate, are exposed to the environment and, as a rule, all this leads to extensive corrosion.

For all of the above, I personally have a reasonable question: what exactly prevented the designers from initially achieving the maximum values ​​of the torsional stiffness * of the VAZ 2101 body?

First, it is the mass of the vehicle. That is, here is the principle of the "golden mean": either we reduce the weight of the car or increase its strength. Of course, you can suggest using more modern materials as the amplifier material, for example, such as carbon and titanium, but here we have another pitfall - the price.

Secondly, security. There is such a concept as active and passive safety, and so, the engine compartment of a car plays an important role in passive safety. It should be as less rigid as possible, so that its deformation has time to extinguish the main force of the impact.

So the designers have to look for compromises and deduce the ideal balances for calculating the torsional stiffness indicators.

Torsional stiffness * - ratio of Newton meters to degrees (Nm / deg.). The more force we apply (Newton - meter), the more we get the angle (degree) by which the car body is deformed. For the vaz 2101, this value is 7300 Nm / deg, and after we reinforce the body on the vaz with our own hands, this figure will increase by about 20-25%.

There is a large number of body tuning done on the VAZ 2101, the choice is based on only two factors: the further purpose of the car and the thickness of its owner's purse.

We will not delve into all the intricacies of the technological process, since, when making the reinforcement of the body, the classic vaz requires only the presence of imaginative thinking and hands growing from one place, we will discuss only some of the main, so to speak, basic options.

The universal strut of the front strut is designed to maintain the initial positions of the front suspension points during dynamic movement of the vehicle.

Strengthens the mudguard struts, which deform over time in the event of "breakdowns" of the front suspension, thereby preventing and stopping the already begun extrusion of the side members, enhances the lateral rigidity of the body.

Installation of the spacer does not require any additional work, it is installed in the standard holes of the horizontal upper suspension supports. In this case, you will additionally receive from 10 to 25% of the stiffness of the front glasses.

When tuning the body of the VAZ 2101, with the help of struts of this type (including in the rear), your car significantly reduces the risk of side skidding, which is very important when side sliding.

"Serious" boys have "richer" struts (see photo)

Next, we will talk about improving the operation of the rear suspension of the car, namely about Parnar's traction.

As you remember, the purpose of this element is to prevent the rear axle from moving in the transverse direction to the body, while at the same time, without limiting it in vertical movement, it is a transverse link fixed at one end on the body and the other on the axle.

It is precisely from these lateral forces that the so-called "house" of Parnard's thrust is gradually deformed, which we will strengthen by welding a patch of 3 mm sheet iron.

Also carrying out body tuning on the VAZ 2101 in reality, the Watt mechanism can be considered an alternative to Parnar's thrust.

As can be seen in the photo, regardless of the suspension travel, the suspension with the installed Watt's mechanism does not, unlike Parnard's thrust, "slip" towards the rear suspension axle.

I would also like to offer another option for tuning the rear suspension of the VAZ 2101, namely the installation of an anti-roll bar and an A-arm.

This "upgrade" will allow us to reduce the roll of the car in corners and make the rear suspension more rigid and predictable.

When installing the anti-roll bar, you do not need to have any special skills, the work is carried out in two stages:

• We fix the structure of the stabilizer on the rear axle;
• We attach the stabilizer struts (the so-called "eggs") to the longitudinal jet rods.

It is also advisable to add a couple of additional longitudinal rods, for which we will need to make additional fastenings to the body and axle for each rod.

Now it's time to replace Parnard's traction with an A-shaped lever, which locks the rear axle in the center and prevents it from shifting both in longitudinal and lateral control.

This element can be bought, although it is quite simple to manufacture:

It remains only to weld on the rear axle, exactly in the center of the platform for the ball:

After that, the entire structure can be installed on the car.

As a rule, rigid struts and stretchers work exclusively in compression, but we can make them work in torsion as well, for which the cups and load angles are reinforced with special thick plates - a kerchief or overlay.

These elements can be used to strengthen the wheel arches ...

It is very convenient and efficient to restore with gussets and linings.

sore spots of the body VAZ 2101:

• B-pillar, overhead booster;
• The upper joint of the sidewall lining with the windshield pillar trim;
• Front door, upper radius;
• In the opening of the front door, from the inside or outside, at the base of the windshield pillar.

Places with formed cracks are repaired by welding reinforcing linings cut from one millimeter steel sheet. They are welded with an intermittent seam along the joint, while the reinforcing strip must follow the contour of the restored panel.

Strengthening the body of the classic

It is also important to strengthen the spar in the area of ​​the pendulum and the steering gear with a 10 ... 15 mm plate and boil an amplifier under the rear seat in the form of a two mm lining.

The final touch of our today's epic is the increase in standard welds and the welding of additional elements.

This tuning of the body of the VAZ 2101 is due to the fact that on the conveyor the body elements are connected to each other using spot welding, when applied, large gaps appear between the "points". It would be natural to assume that the smaller this distance, the more rigid the whole structure will be. But the manufacturing plant, due to technological problems during production and the need for large labor costs, does not go to this.

For us, while the "iron" horse is freely available, fate itself gives us a chance to correct this flaw. The main thing is to choose a sensible welder, no matter what violates the physics of the body.At the same time, we will weld new additional elements into the weak parts of the body in the form of the aforementioned linings and kerchiefs.

Also, taking advantage of the moment for greater rigidity, it is advisable to install the inner bushings in the "embroidered" box-shaped cavities.

On this topic, tuning and strengthening the body of the VAZ 2101 I think is more or less disclosed. It is impossible to describe each procedure in detail in one article; I set myself the task of only showing you the way.

Do not think in templates! Good luck!

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