DIY rear window heating terminal repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of rear window heating terminals from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

This means that the terminal has been successfully restored, everything is buzzing. It should be noted that the heating resistance is less than one ohm. This means that a current of more than 10A passes through the terminal, and 150-200W is dissipated on heating. Therefore, the requirements for the contact are high.

What was done:
1. Cut a strip about 1cm wide and about 10cm long from copper foil about 0.5mm thick.
2. Sand the strip on both sides. This is necessary in order, firstly, to remove oxides and ensure normal contact, and secondly, to make small grooves, to which the glue will stick better.
3. On one side, the strip is completely tinned with solder. The terminal itself will be soldered there. And completely - so that copper does not oxidize in air.
4. Solder the old terminal onto the tinned surface. Somewhere in the middle.
5. Degrease the other side of the foil and the conductive strip on the glass for reliable contact and adhesion.
6. Thoroughly mix the components of the glue (I had Done Deal DD6590 conductive glue. It consists of two components - epoxy glue and silver shavings with a hardener.) And apply to foil.
7. Press the strip with the terminal to its native place on the glass. At the same time, we try to press it well so that the excess glue comes out from under the strip. The smaller the thickness of the glue under the foil, the better the contact.
8. We are waiting 24 hours until the glue is completely dry.
9. We check the contact, catch the wire and check the voltage at the junction when the heating is on.

As a result, the junction resistance turned out to be less than the resistance of the tester probes. The tester shows 0.1 ohm. When the heating is on at the junction, the voltage drop is about 20mV (at a current of more than 10A), which is more than good.
In general, everything is buzzing, heating is restored.

Video (click to play).

Fixing the rear window heating contact!

I wanted to write for a long time, but forgot. Back in the summer, when I removed the rear pillars, I tore off one of the rear window heating contacts, not the threads, but the contact itself! Naturally, in the summer, as it was, he did not care, but now the weather is like this, the glass is constantly sweating and nothing is visible, driving is simply dangerous, coupled with the fact that nothing is especially visible in the mirrors in this weather! In the internet there are 2 ways to solve this problem - to glue with conductive glue and solder!

To get started, I tried the first option. Traveled all the shops in the city and markets, by the way, too, and did not find the glue that they advise - Done Deal, it is expensive, but it definitely helps. Everywhere they offer to glue it with glue for repairing heating threads - but it definitely won't help, it's stupid money down the drain! A cheap but also effective option - Contactol glue, was also not found. As a result, the maximum that I found was Permatex glue in BB, it costs 170 rubles.

glue Permatex

I read on the internet that people make a plate, a heating wire is soldered into it and the plate is glued to the contacts on the glass and it is advised to apply even small copper shavings. A piece of brass was found at home, they tried to glue it 2 times, the first time was simple, the second time with copper shavings. There is no effect.

A brass plate was made

As a result, there was an option - that they simply did not hit on horseback, the plate slid down during the drying of the glue. Checked by control - power goes to both contacts, the light comes on. But at the top it sparkled a little. I bought glue again - they re-glued it as normal, again there is no effect. Now I am considering an option, what can it be about brass, that it is thick and heats up for a very long time or does not stupidly transmit enough current to the thread ?!

Guys, can anyone come across such a problem? The glue remained for one time, but I'm already leaning towards the option to solder! True, I'm worried that the glass would not crack.And if you solder at what point you need to solder the contact, does it even matter? I will be glad to help!

Finally, I fixed the contact! What can I say - no need to rely on cheap glue, 2 tubes were wasted! All the same, it turned out to be the most effective and simple way - to solder! Business then for 10 minutes and it all worked! We take the wire - from one end we solder the “daddy”, on the other side just a bare wire. We clean the terminal itself from the remnants of glue, which does not really conduct current, as it turned out, I cleaned it off with a soldering iron. Then we clean it with fine sandpaper, degrease it with alcohol and solder it. We turn on the heating, wait - everything works! Not very nice, of course it turned out, but the main thing here is practicality and not aesthetics!

a year ago Tags: DIY repair 2418 views

tucson-club. ru / forum / showthread. php? t = 170 & page = 14

I also tore the terminal off the glass when I was repairing the rear wiper.
I bought Moment epoxy glue, added copper shavings to it, mixed it and glued it. Moreover, he made both large and small shavings.
Has been working for over a year.

I was soldering in my wife's car. the story is this:
the contact lamella was in place, but there was no electrical contact. the place was covered by a counter and the glass was glued in. I agreed with the glaziers that they will cut out the glass for me, I will solder it and they will glue it back in. I fiddled for a long time, tried a bunch of methods: with rosin, with acid, heated with a hairdryer - nothing worked. took the glass and went to the garage. I spent 2 hours there until I learned.
fluffed tinned wire is placed on the soldering point, dripped acid from a jar "soldering acid" (I suspect that this is zinc chloride, but the jar is old, I took it on the shelf), and once poked with a 60-watt soldering iron with the required amount of solder on the tip. the solder was POS-61, I had no other. I soldered both the terminal and 2 more wires in reserve. but, I repeat, I had to learn how much to drip, how much solder and how to poke. the glass was glued to me the next day.
good luck!

In general, I soldered the chip to the strip.
Who will solder:
I cleaned the soldering point with fine sandpaper... Rubbed degreaser... Put in place flux for aluminum (I didn't have time to use soldering acid). I did not touch the torn terminal, took a copper wire and tinned it. On the reverse side, the glass was heated with a hairdryer. Next, to the place of soldering on the glass, you need drip (just drip without rubbing) as much solder as possible (I used POS-61) and cool. The solder spot should be as large as possible in area. I dripped twice. Then a copper wire was soldered onto these two drops. And the copper wire to the heater terminal. Ideally, it is necessary to drip so that at one time the drop hits the glass and onto the wire. Then from above you need pour glue on everything (I took epoxy) or varnish, since the soldered wire can be torn off from the deposition on the glass. On the factory terminal, it is also poured from above with some kind of glue or varnish. And it is advisable to fix the wire so that it does not dangle.

I drove from work today, checked the heating. Everything works, the glass warms up normally, the place where the solder is heated in the same way as from the side of the factory terminal (that is, there is no such thing that the place of soldering is very hot). Good luck to all!
ru / big / 2013/0724 /. afd168b5e7.jpg
ru / big / 2013/0724 /. da491be15e. jpg

It is similar to some, during the repair of the rear wiper, tore off the heater clamp. Traveled to workshops, almost all of them immediately refuse to solder. I did find one master shareholder who agreed to try it. But there are no results - do not stick to the solder on this coating. I read everything I found on the Internet - in total:
1.asahi 60/40 solder
2. flux - zinc chloride. Low-tin solder type POS-18, POSS-4-6 If anyone knows, please unsubscribe, the better to solder.
I doubt the miracle of adhesives.
I wanted to look for a separate grid-heater for glass, but I could not find anything.
There is only a parking area for two cars.
Well, or I will do as advised sotyi.

autolada. ru / viewtopic. php? t = 205326

The other day I was going to tint the car and noticed that one thread of heating the rear window (the third from the bottom) does not work.I decided to do it, I thoroughly prepared for this issue

To begin with, a little information that I dug up on the internet:
It is necessary to find the place of the cliff:
1st way:
- turn on the heating on the fogged glass and in the place of the break the glass quickly sweats with a stain, and the whole thread with the break does not sweat.

2nd way:
- to detect a break in the rear window defroster wire, switch on the ignition and switch on the rear window defroster.
- connect one probe of the voltmeter to the mass of the car, and wrap the second probe with foil and move the foil along the heater conductor.
- Connect the voltmeter probe in the center of each wire of the rear window defogger. If the voltmeter shows a voltage of about 5 V, then the heater conductor is working properly. If the voltmeter shows a voltage of 0 V or 12 V, then there is a break in the heater conductor.
- to locate a break in the heater conductor, connect one probe of the voltmeter to the positive terminal of the heater, and move the second probe along the conductor of the heater from the side of the negative terminal of the heater. The point at which the voltage indicated by the voltmeter will drop from a few volts to zero is where the heater conductor breaks.

3rd way:
- ohmmeter, in kilo mode, or better than mego. One probe clings to one terminal of the heater, the second probe to the other terminal of the heater. Take a piece of cotton wool soaked in distilled water and lead it along the strings of the heater, follow the kilo readings, the megohmmeter at the break point, the arrow jerks.
- it is better to use an analog ohmmeter (with an arrow).
- works if there is a break in one place!

Directly repair threads:

In all the methods listed below, you must first clean the conductive strip from varnish (better - with a bent steel wire, a paper clip) until a metallic sheen appears and degrease.

1st method (conductive paste):
- the broken conductor of the rear window defroster can be restored using conductive paste.
- before starting the repair, turn off the heated rear window and allow time for the glass to cool.
- being careful, clean the heater conductor and rinse it with alcohol.
- use adhesive tape to mark the area to be repaired.
- Apply conductive paste approximately 20 mm from each end of the damaged conductor.
- After drying the electrically conductive paste, the rear window defroster can be used for 24 hours. It can be dried at a high temperature, then the heating can be used earlier.

3rd method (paint with shavings):
- take a copper-brass bead (graphite is also suitable) and began to make a line with a small file.
- paint (you can red, to match the color of the threads) is mixed with the stitch, the proportion is about 50/50. You should get a dough mixture.
- the heating is turned on and paint is applied to the thread, first making a clip from electrical tape or scotch tape. In the process of applying paint, a hiss appeared from the place of contact, then it disappeared, but the thread was hot.
- done. Literally in a minute, the composition freezes.

4th method (magnet and glue):
- prepare very small iron filings, a small magnet (from the speaker) and transparent glue (such as BF-2) or nitrolac.
- attach a magnet from the outside above the break, then sprinkle sawdust on the side of the conductor, gently moving the magnet to achieve electrical contact at the break (this will be noticeable by the heating of the strip - unless, of course, the break is in one place, otherwise you will need a larger number of magnets).
- Apply a drop of glue to the sawdust with a small white brush and let the glue (varnish) dry.
- then remove the magnet and use a blade to remove excess sawdust. You can reapply one more layer of glue (varnish).
- enough for several years.

5th method (special adhesives):
- special adhesives for restoring heating threads, there are also Russian-made
- the reviews are contradictory, some like it, some don't
- instructions for use are attached to the glue
- it is recommended to add a little iodine to the glue. In this case, the glue turns out to be red and matches the color of the rest of the threads.

6th method (soldering):
- Damage sites can be soldered with POS-18 or POSS-4-6 soft low-tin solder using zinc chloride as a flux. If a long section is damaged, it is better to solder a thin copper or silver vein from the wire.

7th method (sawdust and glue):
- Silver sawdust (for example, an alloy cut off with a file from the contact of an unusable power relay) must be poured into the fold of a sheet of paper, and a drop of nitro glue must be added there. With the tip of a knife, quickly roll a cylinder with a length of 2.3 and a diameter of 1 mm and place it on the damaged site. Then - crush to squeeze the sawdust tightly, and remove excess.

The problem is not new, there are often holivars about treatment. If you solder, then what? Will the glass crack?

On Lechin's whim, he solved this issue by sticking a contact.

There is a repair kit Permatex 21351

Consists of a sachet (blue) with a napkin, which is impregnated with an activator (starts the chemical hardening of the glue) and the conductive glue itself (a transparent sachet in front of the napkin).

- clean the surface of the contact that has fallen off with a file

- degrease the contact surfaces and glass in the place where we will glue the contact with alcohol or gasoline. In this case, there is no need to glue strictly to the old place. the contact strip is huge, you can step back 1-2 cm in any direction.

- Wipe the contacting surfaces with a napkin with an activator, i.e. contact and glass in the place of gluing, let the activator dry for 5 minutes.

- at this time, we wrinkle a bag of glue with our fingers, achieving a homogeneous mass. We put 1-2 drops of glue on the contact.

- we apply contact to the glass. No additional pressure is required. The contact is held on the glass by surface tension forces. It is possible to correct the position of the contact on the glass without affecting the final result.

- We leave for 24 hours. If done correctly, the contact is tight. You shouldn't be careful with it, if it falls off, it means that something was done wrong and you need to redo it as expected.

Features of storage of the composition: For some reason, these ghouls made of permatex made a disposable envelope with a napkin. In the sense that after opening it cannot be glued back. This becomes especially offensive, because the available amount of glue can cure a whole taxi fleet. Well, in fact, according to my estimate, the glue will be enough for about 20-25 glasses. So, it turns out that this is not a problem. The dried activator can be easily diluted with gasoline. I just pissed on a napkin with gasoline from a flower sprayer. The glue itself does not dry out at all. Even in an unopened bag.

emperad 23 Jun 2015

At me on one side of the glass the “corner” fell off - (well, that's on which actually the wiring with a plug of the “mother” type is put on). That is, I understand that with this composition the corner (“dad”) can be glued to the heating?

I trained several times on unnecessary glasses, first I warmed the glass with a hairdryer up to 70 degrees and a hundred-watt for a minute and drove solder over it. Then just a soldering iron on glass at room temperature for a minute. I soldered a bunch of garbage, small screws, terminals on the platforms, which was at hand. In general, if you do not do this in the cold, and the gumboil is good, you can quickly solder it, then nothing will happen to the glass.

ska_69 24 Jun 2015

glue is easier, at the beginning of the century I glued a ton of contacts to the glasses.

So after all, you need the glue to be how to say it .. "conductive" or what? So I would take it and stick it on the same proxypol, only to the point of this - it can and will hold, but it will not conduct current (when it dries up, it freezes), which means that the heating will not work either. So you need something like that - (like glue) - so that when it sticks, the current passes. Or am I missing something? (Correct then). And yet - how to stick it all the same?

I do not rummage in English ..But you understand that THIS is what you need? (That is, something like conductive?)

Oh, kay, I'll look at the local auto dealerships.

Vitya, thanks for the info about the napkin. And then the second package was opened for three contacts.

Wow, I didn’t look here, but it turns out that the topic aroused keen interest in clubmates. It's nice.

Why should the glass crack, it is tempered. And the wiring was initially soldered in the same place. Glue xs, then touch it and fall off again. But soldering on non-dismantled glass is inconvenient, yes.

I believe that glass can crack because the melting point of tin is 220 degrees. Tempered glass is a tricky thing, and I'm a little afraid of it. There are cases when tempered glass exploded on its own. It's just that the stresses inside the glass didn't match up so well. And I personally cannot predict how heating a patch with a diameter of 10 cm will affect up to 220 degrees, while the temperature of the surrounding glass will be 20 degrees. I also have experience in soldering contacts to glass. The glass did not explode, I think it was lucky. In any case, soldering the contact to the glass, you feel like a sapper.

In the case of a Zhigulyator, the cost of an error is low. In the case of a caprice, the hemorrhoids will be such that even thinking about him is scary. And the apotheosis of hemorrhoids is my Twarus (Toyota) with a liftback body. There glass exists separately from the trunk only in the catalog. In practice, the glass problem = replacement of the complete boot lid with repainting.

- Yes, conductive glue. On the one hand, it smells of magic, on the other hand, there is the 21st century in the yard and the respected Permatex as a manufacturer. I tried it, it turned out great, shared the methodology and results with the comrades.

Bold red ELECTRICALLY CONDUCTIVE. Hmmm. what is it for?

Vitya, thanks for the info about the napkin. And then the second package was opened for three contacts.

On health, I was glad to help.

emperad 26 Jun 2015

Well xs, when I was still working at AB MO, we soldered these glasses on the Volgalisches and somehow did not even think about it, and I do not know of a single case of explosion. Then there was no trace of such adhesives

Calmly soldered with an ordinary soldering iron on 2 machines, nothing fell off and did not break. Glasses are warming up.

Soldered on twenty cars, and on the twenty-first it burst.

twenty-first they are.

Here we glue them with this Permatex. Extremely surprised you are not changing the 5th door assembly... What kind of alloy or google it?

The client is not the same now .. Greedy all what so. Poor people write a thousand on a new glass can not spend. I have to google about the alloy to Rose and solder. And then Permatex usually no longer causes reversible damage.

Hello everybody! Once again I remembered with an unkind word the crooked n *** ases, to whom I went to tint the car on the advice of a friend. The guy I checked was busy, and these guys agreed to skip the line. As a result, when removing the eyeliner to the heated rear window, this illiterate freak broke off the terminal for me from the glass, and together with a particle of glass.If someone needs to do this, then know that there is a movable part on the "mom", which you need to press harder, and then remove it from the "dad" located on the glass. In the summer, the terminal was soldered into place with the hands of an experienced auto electrician, and I seemed to calm down, did not even begin to make claims. True, he did not trust to tint, so that half of the car would not be broken.

Recently, this very terminal flew off the glass. Soldering to its original place was problematic (the glass was left without a conductive layer), and I decided to do it nearby, since there was a platform. In the process, it turned out that it is problematic to irradiate the site, the coating is so thin that it instantly burns out or is removed. I soldered it somehow, but there is no more room for another attempt.

Heard that there are conductive adhesives for such cases, or conductive coatings for glass. Maybe it is possible to glue the pad to the remnants of the coating on the glass with such glue, and to solder the terminal to it.
If someone has experience, please share, and most importantly, what kind of materials were used?

The rear window of the Scorpion, the heating conductors on the sides are connected to a wide tire, there is a contact pad at the top of the tire. On the one hand, the contact fell off. The platform is a thin layer of some kind of metal sputtering. The contact must be soldered to it (the area is about 2x3cm, the contact is 0.5x1cm). And he, GAD. not soldered. From this contact pad, everything flies off (just slides off) like from a Teflon frying pan. No skinning (tried it. The spraying is very thin - it peels off). The problem seems to be that it is not possible to warm up this crap (and it is dumb to use strong heaters - suddenly the glass will crack). Therefore, the questions are:
1. Maybe there is a VERY low-temperature solder (IMHO needs 60-80 degrees)?
2. Can the contact be glued? I heard about conductive adhesives, but there is a doubt that the glue is designed for high currents (there, somewhere around 20 amperes IMHO, heating all the same). Does anyone have a thread of experience using such glue?
3. Any other thoughts?

Shl. I don't want to poison with acid - I'm afraid the spraying will slip off the nafik, then. here.
ZZY. It is not advisable to change the door or not.
ZZZY. For some reason I rejected the idea of drilling a hole and tightening the contacts with a bolt.

Sent: Corwin OHC2i, Dec 25, 2002 09:20:08
In response to: How to solder (glue)? + sent by T283TA, December 24, 2002 at 15:54:32

And I would not solder it at all - I would find (if there is no extra cheap door at hand) springy flat contacts and, having mounted them through an insulator, made a simple mechanical springy solution. In principle, it is better not to do it there. At least not a fig will not come off later.

Posted by: Lelik_Sam, December 24, 2002 at 16:07:33
In response to: How to solder (glue)? + sent by T283TA, December 24, 2002 at 15:54:32

2. Can the contact be glued?
- Yes,

there, somewhere ampere 20 IMHO, heating all the same).
- WHAT. This will be 20 * 12 = 240 watts. All the spraying on the fick would have evaporated by itself, and the glass would have burst. Have you heard a few stories about people who threw snow on the headlights with 100-watt bulbs? And there, after all, not all power goes into heat.
- IMHO SHOULD BE GLUED. Glue in Mitka. In the worst case, it will not work, but it will not get worse.

: 3. Any other thoughts?
Glue regular metal with ordinary glue. plate. not all of the current with glue, so that there is a place for contact .. Before this is probably crap :)))))

Sent: T283TA, Dec 24, 2002 4:19:12 PM

: there, somewhere ampere 20 IMHO, heating all the same).
:: - WHAT. This will be 20 * 12 = 240 watts.
+++ Well done. I would even say 20 * 13 = 260W. Now let's put the calculator aside and call on common sense. What for there was a fuse set to 30A? The standard margin is 50 percent, which is why I'm talking about 20A.

: All the spraying on the fick would have evaporated by itself, and the glass would have burst.
+++ Builders calculate floor heating at the rate of 100W / sq. Meter. And there you need only 10 degrees of pace. Raise. And here it is necessary to heat more than a square meter (this is such a glass area) at an ambient -20 degrees and forced airflow to such a rate. so that the ice and snow melt.

: Have you heard a few stories about people who threw snow on the headlights with 100-watt lamps?
+++ The area of the headlamp is 100 (STO.) Times smaller.

: And there, after all, not all power goes into heat.
+++ Approximately 93-95%

: In the worst case, it will not work, but it will not get worse.
+++ Will be. There will be nothing to solder and glue.

Sent: Lelik_Sam, December 24, 2002 at 16:52:03

And here it is necessary to heat more than a square meter (this is such a glass area) at an ambient -20 degrees and forced airflow to such a rate. so that the ice and snow melt.
- Oh, whether. fuck you all the glass heats up. So. stripes thin. And then, after the interior warms up. The real heating area is a little more than the same headlight. And it does not melt there especially. It melts a little so that it blows away. Finally, check the temperature difference between the rear and side windows with your hand on a well-heated car. I don't believe in 20 degrees.

Approximately 93-95%
- Truth? Is it radiating so much WARM? I do not believe.

Sent by: Marlboro !, December 24, 2002 at 21:47:53

+++ Ordinary incandescent - just like that. Halogen - well 75-80.

Posted by: il76th, Dec 24, 2002 4:10:43 PM
In response to: How to solder (glue)? + sent by T283TA, December 24, 2002 at 15:54:32

the conductive glue "kontaktol" is called, I restored the paths on the mothers with it. maybe it will suit you.

Sent: T283TA, Dec 24, 2002 at 04:22:08 PM

+++ Don't you know - does it hold large currents? In the same place, all the tracks have already gathered in a bunch.

Sent: YURCHIK, December 24, 2002 at 16:36:27

It looks like my Scorpio was done before me. Until now, two stripes are frigid. : - (((pink-burgundy glue was used, in my opinion.
Best regards, YURCHIK.

Sent: FORDMAX, Dec 25, 2002 00:12:16
In response to: How to solder (glue)? + sent by T283TA, December 24, 2002 at 15:54:32

low-temperature solder - God forbid the memory of Rose's alloy, and in order to solder, look for a liquid acid-free flux from radioamators should be on sale.

Sent: Anton Papilin, Dec 25, 2002 00:15:08
In response to: How to solder (glue)? + sent by T283TA, December 24, 2002 at 15:54:32

Summary
If we don't think of anything low-temperature, all that remains is to clean it thoroughly, press it down and pour it in with epoxy - it seems to be safe.

Heating filaments on the rear window of a car may fail after a long service life of the car or due to mechanical damage. As a result, car drivers are faced with a lack of heating of a part of the glass. This causes condensation to form on it with significant temperature changes inside the passenger compartment and outside during the cold season.

Misted glass significantly reduces the visibility of the road surface, which is fraught with an increase in the risk of accidents. This problem, fortunately, can be eliminated by hand using a special glue or paste.

Car rear window heating filament repair

Part of the car's glass stops heating due to a broken thread, which, for example, you can touch with an abrasive, removing the glue from the tint film. Since the heating elements are thin and under certain lighting conditions they are practically invisible. There are several ways to detect a break:

Before you start repairing the heated rear window with your own hands, make sure that the conduction strip is clear of varnish. This must be done very carefully using a paper clip. Degrease the work surface after cleaning.

There are several ways to fix a car window heater:

Conductive paste. To use it, turn off the window heater and allow the glass to cool down. After cleaning the filament, mark the working area, and then apply the paste in a layer of about 2 cm to each of the damaged ends of the heater element. The paste dries within 24 hours, during which it is impossible to use window heating. However, to speed up the process, drying with a building hair dryer is possible.

Adhesive for conducting current is produced by such manufacturers whose products you can find on the market:

Keller... Produces Kontaktol, a kit that contains the smallest particles of silver. Presented as a one-component mixture, low-toxic, hypoallergenic, water-resistant, heat-resistant;
Loctite... Sold in a set with a stencil, applied using the brush included in the set;
Russia... Produces "Kontaktol" agent, which is applied to the surface with a layer of 0.2 mm. Withstands temperatures up to +110 degrees. It has low elasticity and is water resistant.

Hello!
The heating terminal fell off from the rear window.
I tried to solder it, but it was unsuccessful, it fell off almost immediately, and with a contact layer (sort of like copper). So there is nothing to solder.

I would like to try to make a conductive glue from BF and aluminum or copper powder and glue the terminal.
How do you think it will hold up?

Or maybe somehow you can tin the glass with acid and tin.
Does solder stick to clean glass?

I will listen to any suggestions ideas.

I just don't know. and all these poxypols and cold welds are conductive, he can try to draw a thin strip from the damaged track to the edge of the glass and pour the heating wire into the same substance.

I have never used it myself.

Thanks, I will definitely try.
Does the glass need to be removed, or is it possible and so, how fluid is it?

There is a Russian glue "Contact" to restore the heating filaments.
costs about 70-80 rubles. There is also a stencil in the kit. They seem to say good.

TO Greengo, it is not fluid, it looks like well-crushed plasticine, the glass does not need to be removed so that it does not interfere, just degrease, press down and fix it (you can use an adhesive tape). Everything is written in the instructions. But the most important thing (not written) should be done in a warm room, otherwise when you bring your hands to the cold glass, moisture condenses on it (fogs up) and all the glue is down the drain.

TO BlackHunter, rightly they say you can buy a cheaper product, there are no problems, you just ring the breakage on which thread, and after gluing the stencil (a piece of paper with a slot in the thickness of the thread) you rub the product.

In both cases, drying by turning on the heating is not necessary, ruin all the work.
_________________
М2141 => 2105 => 2115i + 2112 16v => Nissan Almera 1.8
"Homo homini lupus est"

How does the heated rear window work?
Rear window defroster: how does it work?
Rear window defroster: what is it and what is it for?
Scheme of work
What can be malfunctions
Heated rear window does not turn on
Rear window is slowly sweating
Horizontal misting stripes remain on the rear window
Diagnostics and repair
Ways to find a problem thread
We carry out repairs

Maybe you will be surprised by the topic of today's article, because it is summer outside, and the weather is replete with sunny hot days. But this function is relevant at any time of the year. Let's talk about heated rear window. For those who think that this is absolutely unnecessary in the summer, let's say that you probably don't travel much by car during the rains.

But here's the bad luck, Mr. Murphy comes into play with his notorious "laws of meanness." It is raining outside, and the heating of the glass has stopped working, and the humidity in the cabin is increasing, and the visibility is decreasing. An urgent need to repair the heating of the rear window of the car. The reasons for such unexpected trouble can be a variety of actions, starting with the unprofessionalism of the service workers of the tinting studio, ending with the pranks of the kids in the passenger seat.

Heated car rear window perfectly copes with the problem of fogging and does not dry out the air in the cabin. When it comes to defrosting glass in winter, the advantages are obvious. Car glass gets rid of icing evenly by the time it needs to be pulled out. The air from the heater has just started to warm up, and the rear window is already clean, dry and transparent.

The most effective anti-fogging of car windows is heating. How does the heated rear window work? The windshield is heated by directed warm air currents. The rear window is heated using small heating elements powered by electrical energy. On the inside of the glass itself (from the interior), metal tracks with high resistance are attached in the form of multiple thin ribbons. When electrical energy passes through them, heat is generated. As a result, the glass heats up and the water evaporates. After a few minutes, the glass becomes transparent again.

In order to successfully diagnose malfunctions and repair the heating of the rear window of the car as professionally as possible, it is necessary to study the electrical circuit for connecting the heating elements and understand its working principle.

The image shows a typical wiring diagram for heating a car. Let's take a look at how it works together. Power comes from the "+" terminal of the battery, passes through the ignition switch, fuses and is fed to the heater controller and the power contact of the relay. The battery terminal with a "-" sign is connected to the car body, as well as one of the terminals of the heating device.

When the heater is turned on, the voltage goes to the relay coil, which is triggered, the power contacts are closed and the relay terminals 30 and 87 are connected. The current goes to the heater, flowing through parallel-connected threads, and then through the car body again goes to the minus of the battery.

Basically, car owners do not bother about what and how in this rear window heating device until it fogs up or is covered with an ice crust. Here, with the usual movement, the button for turning on the heating power is pressed, five minutes, ten, fifteen minutes pass, but there is no result: the glass has not become more transparent at all, well, or the review has appeared only in some part. Here, and no measuring instruments are required to understand that the car's rear window heater needs to be repaired.

Please note that the heater turns on only when the key in the ignition is turned to the "ON" position. In other vehicles, the heater is only switched on when the engine is running. This is to avoid premature discharge of the battery. Depending on the car model, the rear window heater can consume from 10 A to 25 A of electric current. To give you an idea, two car headlights consume 10 A.

If the light on the heating button does not light up in the active state, most likely the button itself is faulty or the fuse has blown. If the light is on, but the threads do not heat up, then the reason lies either in the relay or in the connectors for connecting the device to the on-board wiring. If this is the case, then according to the automotive documentation, it is necessary to determine the place where these parts are located and replace the non-working element. It is not always possible to quickly find the mounting location for the relay, but there is one way to check its performance indirectly. We will talk about this a little later.

Sometimes it happens that after the heater is brought into a state of activity, the glass begins to sweat, but very slowly. If the weather is frosty outside, then the reason may lie in insufficient contact of one of the connectors of the electrical circuit. As a result, the contact resistance increases, the current flows with less force, the power decreases, and the threads warm up more slowly.

To check this malfunction, you need to take a multimeter and measure the voltage at the input terminals of the heater and the battery. The difference in results should not exceed one volt.

And, perhaps, the most common malfunction of the rear window heating system of a car is the breakage of threads attached to the glass itself. This malfunction is visible with unarmed gas, since in the place of the defective element the glass is either fogged up or not thawed (depending on the season).

Tracks carrying current are easily destroyed even with slight mechanical stress. Therefore, you cannot clean the glass with a scraper, only a soft cloth. Also, if you sometimes transport long or bulky goods, then they should not rest against the rear window.

Determining a damaged heater filament is not difficult, as you already understood. So, before you fix the rear window heating, you need to count all the threads from top to bottom and remember which ones are faulty. So it will be easier to find the right thread by visual inspection. But the breaks are sometimes just microscopic. A voltmeter or multimeter will help here. To quickly find the problematic thread, you need to study the rear window heater device.

If visual signs of a break are not observed, for example, if a break happened at the terminals, then you can resort to the good old folk methods. It is remarkable that every motorist, with the slightest effort and expense, is able to find the place where the heater threads are broken.

• Visual diagnostics. If the rear window is fogged up, turn on the heater. At the point where the threads are broken, it begins to sweat almost immediately, when the rest of the damaged element does not warm up.

• Using a voltmeter - the first way. Switch on the ignition and then the heated rear window. Put one probe of the device on the weight of the car, wrap the other with foil and move to the center of the heating thread. The voltage should be no more than 5 V. Where it drops to zero or rises to twelve, there is a break.

• Using a voltmeter - the second way. Attach one probe to the positive terminal of the heating element, and move the other along the thread from the side of the negative terminal. In a place where the voltage drops to zero, repair of the heated rear window is required.

• With an ohmmeter. Better to take an analog device with an arrow. Turn it into kilo mode. Attach the probes to the opposite terminals of the system. Soak cotton wool in distilled water and slowly run it along the thread. In the place where the arrow of the device twitches, and there is a break.

That's it, the diagnostics have been carried out. Now, inspired by your successes, you can take on the repair of the rear window heating with your own hands.

There are many options for fixing a rear window defroster. The same can be said for the materials used and the techniques used. In any case, you are free to choose the method of carrying out the repair work. It is necessary to remember only one thing, in any case, the connecting places of the heating system must always be cleaned and degreased if soldering is required.

1. How to fix a heated rear window using a repair kit? Many car rear defogger repair kits have similar specifications. With their help, it is possible to restore up to ten centimeters of a damaged heating filament. The repair kit includes: templates with threads and a thermally active polymer resin cylinder.

Locate the thread breakage and turn off the heater. Remove the protective film from the template and attach the thread to the torn area. Using a brush, apply the resin to the area to be repaired. When dry, repeat a few more times. Remove the stencil from the glass and do not run heating for 24 hours.

2. How to repair a rear window defroster with conductive paste? It is applied to where the threads are broken. At the same time, grab the dangling ends on both sides, 2 cm each. The paste should dry for 24 hours. You can use a building hairdryer and speed up the drying process.

3. Restoration of rear window heating tracks using folk methods. In principle, they themselves do not differ from each other, only there is a difference in the materials used.

• Paint and shavings. The shavings are extracted using a file and a copper-brass block. It is better to take the paint to match the color of the heating filaments. Mix the ingredients in a 1: 1 ratio until soft dough. Make a stencil using duct tape or duct tape. Turn on the heating and apply the mixture according to the stencil. You will hear about the presence of contact at the place of repair by a characteristic slight hiss. Everything is ready. You can go right away and not wait a day.

• Glue and shavings. Here, instead of paint, BF-2 glue is used, as an option.

• Soldering the break. Here you need to use zinc chloride. Solder should be taken with a low tin content, such as POS-18, POSS-4-6. If a long section of the heating wire is damaged, a silver or copper wire can be used.

Now you should have enough options for how to restore the car's rear window defroster yourself. As you already understood, this will not cause much difficulty, and you do not need to spend a lot on materials.

Video (click to play).

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