In detail: DIY repair of a fishing reel clip from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
You still do not know how easy and without the risk of shooting the feeder to limit the casting distance? Then today's article is for you. Let's consider two ways of limiting the casting distance using a rubber band. Of course, you can stop it with the braid or fishing line itself, putting it in a clip on the spool, but when fishing on a feeder, heavy feeders and small diameters of lines are often combined, which greatly increases the likelihood of shooting off the feeder rig when casting.
Therefore, it will not be superfluous to protect yourself from unnecessary loss of the feeder, and take advantage of the shock-absorbing properties of rubber.
Some anglers may say that they can do without any "rubber products", perfectly fishing for many years on rivers and lakes. For them, perhaps, this information will be superfluous, but for those who have already encountered the problem of shooting, it will be extremely useful.
Basically, problems associated with the loss of feeders are typical of novice anglers who are just mastering fishing. It is not easy to calculate the casting force at the beginning of mastering the feeder, especially when fishing is carried out at long distances (more than fifty meters). Castings are often either weak or too strong. If the casting is too strong, the bank gum helps in the reel clip. At the same time, the fishing line is less injured, and the clip will last longer and the angler will have more feeders.
We have written more than once about the importance of delivering groundbait to the same place. Moreover, this area for feeding is not chosen just like that, but with the help of a preliminary study of the bottom relief. If you still do not know how to do this, then it will not be superfluous to read the article on how to find a curb or a hole. In order to accurately deliver the bait to the right place, we need to make the correct throw horizontally (for this, a cast is performed along a landmark on the shore) and in distance (for this, clipping with the help of an elastic band or the braid itself is used). Well, now let's look at the methods of clipping themselves with the help of an elastic band.
Video (click to play).
By far the most popular method is using a rubber band.
Such a casting limitation is done very simply:
After casting and determining the optimal fishing distance, we put the feeder on a stand and slightly tighten the line so that the feeder tip is in a bent, taut position.
We take an elastic band (most often they use a bank, clerical elastic band, you can also use any other suitable and durable one) and put it on the spool, making two or three turns. In this case, the rubber tension must be strong;
We put one round of elastic in the clip;
When the cord or line is pulled out, the rubber will remain under the coils. And after casting, it limits the range. Do not forget that during casting it is better to move the feeder to a vertical position, this will weaken the jerk and contribute to less load on the rubber.
The disadvantage of this method - this is the inability to use the friction clutch immediately after hooking a large fish. If they ate scavengers, crucians or small carps, then this is not so important, but if there is a high probability of catching good specimens for several kilograms, then this is already a significant drawback. If, after all, such a long-awaited moment has come, then the main thing is not to fuss!
The most correct thing at such a moment would be to be directly near the feeder (as it should be in feeder fishing), in this case, the rod is taken in hand and transferred to the side of the fish. That is, you need to try to loosen the tension of the line, while sometimes you have to go in and water.At this stage, we can only absorb fish jerks with the help of a feeder, the position of which is close to vertical. It is in this case that feeder rubber in a rig or mono line as a base can help us in cushioning.
If you feel that at the other end of the line there is truly a "monster" who is about to break the leash to a famous grandmother, then with our free hand we find our elastic band on the spool and tear it or pull it out of the clip. The friction clutch immediately starts to work, which should already be configured for resistance a little more than the feeder with bait creates.
In order to find our groundbait point again in the event of a break in the rubber band or loss of a rig, you need to “duplicate»Fishing distance. Most often it is done like this:
After finding the optimal casting distance, when the rig is thrown, the braid in front of the reel can be marked with a marker;
After fixing with an elastic band, wind up the fishing line and unwind it on the shore, noticing its length by objects (suitable if the shore is relatively empty and the fishing distance is small);
In any case, for accuracy, count the number of revolutions of the reel while pulling up the feeder rig. This method will help well in the future if fishing takes place in the same section of the reservoir.
As you can see, the method is not complicated, and its only drawback is problems with playing large fish. And in this case, it would be better to use a fishing line (if possible) and feeder rubber in a rig to cushion fish jerks as a base.
Second way
A less common method of locking the cast range, I used it before until I learned about the first locking option.
The main difference between this method and the previous one is the use of a cut gum, that is, you can use a torn bank or any suitable one.
After finding the optimal fishing range, we make a ring of elastic around the main fishing line. The ring should be small, about a centimeter in diameter;
We tighten the rubber ring well and cut off the ends from knitting;
We move the ring to the coil and fix it in the clip.
After casting, the range is also well fixed, but do not forget to raise the feeder up before splashing down the feeder.
Dignity before the first method, I see one thing - it is easier to find the ring by hand and pull it out of the clip, if necessary.
But disadvantages there is more in a method like this:
The same impossibility of blowing off the line after catching a large fish;
Extra time for knitting a ring;
A knot that slightly distorts the order of the braided line on the spool.
But, despite the shortcomings, you also need to know about this method of fixing, in some conditions it can be useful for a feeder lover and any angler.
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Posted 25 June 2017 - 11:13 (#1) Local
Advanced user
Anyone with a shot of tackle, check your reels and remove the sharp edges on the bobbin notch at the clip.
PS: Photo proof below.
Posted 25 June 2017 - 18:42 (#2) Mechanic
Advanced user
Submitted 25 June 2017 - 18:56 (#3) sv52
Advanced user
Sent 26 June 2017 - 13:16 (#4) Petrovich
Advanced user
The mechanic (25 June 2017 - 18:42) wrote:
Tatarstan Fishing and Hunting Forum
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The guys at matchfishing recommend buying a cheap spool and replacing the clip from it (Poxipol glue)
When accessing metalworking machines, I would do this.
I mean there is a spare spool. The clip is attached with a screw. In principle, a thread can be constructed and attached.
Ruslan T wrote: Guys at matchfishing, they recommend buying a cheap spool and replacing the clip from it (Poxipol glue)
When accessing metalworking machines, I would do this.
This is not my option. This is a powerful carp reel with a clip hole. I have a more sophisticated version. Regular plastic flag with a slot for internal fastening.
Manufacturing of metal clips on spools of spools. Changed construct
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We are often asked on fishing forums - what is the reason for the relatively high price of this service? I would like to give a detailed answer to this question, which resulted in this article.
To begin with, I would like to explain in more detail - why does the clips break off? The fact is that the clips on the spools of the reels used in carp and feeder fishing are made of soft plastic. Fishing is carried out in a clearly defined (marked) section of the reservoir, and to achieve the accuracy of casting along the distance, it is necessary to fix the fishing line of a given length. Typically, anglers measure a predetermined length of line in advance and fix it with a clip on the spool in order to avoid throwing the rig over the marker.
When using in this case heavy and medium sinkers and feeders of the "Method" type, as well as bait rockets and spombs on spod rods, the angler performs power casting of the rig over considerable distances. If the fishing line is fixed to a plastic clip when casting a heavy rig, with excessive force applied during casting, the clip may break off, since it is made of a soft material that is not designed for the impulse transmitted through the fishing line by a heavy load.
In this case, Shimano took this moment into account, which can be clearly seen on the Shimano BB-LC carp series reels, where there is a spring-loaded round metal clip on the spool.
For the sake of fairness, it should be noted that the clips on the spinning reels are also plastic, however, fixing the casting distance by taking a fishing line or cord onto the clip is usually not used - the spinning angler himself controls the casting distance and area. The clip on the spools of the spinning reels is mainly used to fix the fishing line or cord when transporting the reel. We repeat that the reels of carp and feeder series are susceptible to breakage of the clips due to the specifics of fishing with a distance limitation by taking the fishing line onto the clip.
I have not met this topic in the vastness of you tuba, so I decided to highlight this issue. Anyone can help.
DIY fishing reel repair .. part 3 .. (little tricks) My email
I have not met this topic in the vastness of you tuba, so I decided to highlight this issue. Anyone can help.
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Video Replacing the clip in the reel | Repair | 1080p | FishingVideoUkraine Channel FishingVideoUkraine
Those malfunctions that can occur in fishing reels either completely disable the product, or interfere with the enjoyment of the fishing process, creating discomfort during operation. In this article, we will analyze the question of how to repair fishing reels of different types - inertial and inertial.
Of course, there is an opportunity to contact specialized workshops for help, or you can try to repair fishing reels with your own hands. This will not only save money, but also experience the joy of doing the work yourself.
Choosing this attribute of fishing, each fisherman carefully thinks over the options and conditions for fishing, and only then acquires a product that is suitable in terms of characteristics. And it becomes a pity if suddenly it becomes unusable. Where to start repairing a spinning reel? The answer is unambiguous - from the disassembly of the product.
To begin with, we will study the phased disassembly of the product, and then we will consider the signs and main causes of breakdowns, which necessitate both the repair of the inertia coils and the repair of the inertial coil with our own hands.
Regardless of whether you are about to repair spinning fishing reels or repairing multiplier reels that combine the principle of inertial reels - it is very important to properly prepare and carefully disassemble the product. When disassembling it, lay out each removed element and part in order of priority. This approach afterwards, after you carry out the repair of the spinning reel, will greatly facilitate the assembly procedure.
To clean the product, use cotton wool or a cotton pad previously soaked in warm water. If you need to remove dirt in hard-to-reach areas, use either tweezers or cotton swabs. It is strongly not recommended to use aggressive household cleaners to remove dirt. When repairing reels for spinning, it is better to use gasoline or alcohol for cleaning.
Let's take a look at the disassembly of a spinning reel using the example of a Shimano Catana 2500 FB:
To repair a spinning coil with your own hands, you must first disassemble it. And let's start this process by removing the handle.
The next step is to remove the plastic washers and the sprocket under them.
We unscrew the nut by first unscrewing the bolt that holds it.
We unscrew all the mounting bolts and remove the decorative overlay.
To remove the main gear, you must first unscrew the bolt securing the rod. Then you need to pull out the stem, and then remove the gear.
We remove the remaining gears.
Consider the disassembly using the example of ABU GARCIA REVO POWER CRANK 6-L REEL:
We unscrew the lock nut securing the coil handle.
We disassemble the case of the multiplier in order to get the spool. To do this, unscrew the lock nut,
turn the "cheek" of the multiplier and remove it.
We remove the spool from the multiplier body.
To get to the main mechanism of the multiplier, we remove the part from the axis
and gaskets installed underneath.
Remove the axle brake cover.
We unscrew all the fastening bolts that hold the cover that covers the main mechanism and remove it.
We disassemble the main mechanism. The largest gear is the main gear, it contains the clutch pressure discs.
Carefully remove the decorative strip (http://prntscr.com/giaynv) and remove the slider guide.
Remove the worm stopper, unscrew the lid and take out the "tooth", and then remove the "worm".
The product is completely disassembled, rinse it, diagnose the damage and repair the retractable coil.
In order to carry out competent repair of inertial coils with your own hands, as well as inertial coils, you must first determine the cause of the breakdown, and do it correctly. Of course, after disassembling the product, you can clearly see the part that is out of order. However, the manifestation of certain malfunction symptoms will most likely help to identify the failed part before the coil is disassembled.
Types of faults and their manifestation:
Internal noise. If extraneous sounds appear in the product during use, you should immediately stop using it. It is not necessary that the noise is caused by a damaged part; it can also be caused by dirt trapped in the mechanism. However, if the reason is not in the contamination of the product, then most likely the bearings are out of order. Then, in order to repair the fishing reel, it will be enough to replace the worn out parts.
Squeak in the reel. Constant creaking inside the body signals only one thing to the fisherman - it's time to disassemble the reel, clean it of old grease and process it with a new one.Determining which part or assembly is the source of the squeak is quite problematic. Therefore, it is better to carry out a complete maintenance of the product.
The line winds unevenly on the spool. Sometimes the following situation begins to occur - the line is unevenly placed on the spool, forming a front or rear cone. The fix is easy enough. If winding is done with a cone down, then it is necessary to remove one washer from the main shaft of the reel. In case of upward cone formation, the washer must be added.
In order for the product to serve you in the long term, you need to properly and carefully operate it, carry out periodic maintenance and promptly respond to any signs of deviation from normal operation of the coil.
Do not postpone the repair of spinning reels indefinitely - delay will only aggravate the state of affairs and accelerate the destruction of not only damaged parts, but also those that interact with them. This will lead to an increase in the cost of repairs or even failure of the product!
Let's take a look at the video of repairing fishing reels with our own hands with a few tricks:
Experienced fishermen do not advise disassembling and lubricating a high-quality new reel for 1-2 seasons. In the absence of problems, only light lubrication of the rotating parts is permissible to facilitate sliding. Also remember that some breakdowns can be avoided by knowing the rules for operating the reels - for example, after returning home from fishing, do not leave the clutch tightened, loosen it. This will help to avoid deformation and sticking of the friction discs during a long idle spool!
If you have the same defect, fix it immediately, otherwise the coil will be inconvenient to use.
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During fishing, spinning rods are used in difficult conditions, which leads to their frequent breakdowns. Spinning reels are repaired either by professionals in the workshop or in the field. The cost of professional services is sometimes equivalent to the price of a new part. The cheapest way is to do it yourself.
Tackle failures make fishing uncomfortable and annoying. Let's consider how the spinning reel is disassembled and repaired.
When choosing a tackle, the marking gives complete information about the device. The correct selection of parameters promises good luck in the fishing industry.
Spinning coils are marked with symbols and marks on the device body. It contains information about the characteristics and helps when choosing a tackle. Firms have developed uniform standards and are trying to comply with them.
The main body of information is located on the part itself:
size (indicated in numbers);
the amount of line for winding (forest consumption);
coil gear ratios.
The size of the spool can be graduated from 1 to 4 thousand. The value of the number on the marking is proportional to the size of the spool, power and weight, as well as the capacity for the line.
The forest capacity indicator is displayed in the form of markings, for example, 180 / 0.25. In this case, 180 m of line with a cross section of 0.25 mm can fit on the spool.
The gear ratios show how many times the bobbin will turn if the handle is made one turn. Typically, the marking is displayed like this: 5.0: 1. In this case, with one turn of the handle, the reel with the line stacker will make five turns around the axis.
Extended parameters can also be applied to the part, for example, is there a reverse stop. But this information is considered secondary and does not have a significant impact on success in fishing.
Devices of inertialess type have the following components: body, drive, brake clutch, rotor, reel seat leg, reverse direction switch, spool fixing rod, forestry device with bow, roller, gearwheel with bow.
Repair of a spinning reel at home is carried out in the following sequence:
the nut of the brake system and the spool is unscrewed;
gears and washers placed under the spool are removed;
the handle of the coil is dismantled;
the clamp nut in the mechanism device is unscrewed;
the rotor is disassembled;
the line-laying bow is dismantled;
the latch mechanism of the line guide is dismantled;
the line pulling roller is dismantled;
the bolt of the reverse locking device is unscrewed;
the switch is dismantled;
the cap bolt is unscrewed;
the plug is dismantled;
the wall is dismantled.
The main mechanism, consisting of a pair of gears and a runner, remains not disassembled. Disassembling it is undesirable unless absolutely necessary.
To clean the parts of a spinning reel, wet cotton pads and swabs, fresh warm water, preferably distillate are used. To eliminate contamination in inaccessible nodes, cotton swabs and tweezers are used.
When repairing fishing reels and cleaning them from dirt, sand, it is undesirable to use caustic household cleaning solutions. Replace them with gasoline or ethyl alcohol.
Regardless of the type of tackle, when disassembling mechanisms, parts and parts are placed on a clean surface in the sequence of dismantling. This method will allow you to assemble the structure back several times faster.
Before starting the recovery, the spinning reel is disassembled in the following order:
The lock nut is unscrewed, fastening the coil handle.
To remove the spool, the multiplier casing is disassembled. For this purpose, the lock nut is unscrewed, the multiplier "cheek" is turned and removed.
The spool is removed from the multiplier casing.
To reach the main gear of the multiplier, the assembly is removed from the axle and the spacer placed underneath.
The cover on the axle brake is removed.
The bolted connections that fix the cover of the main mechanism are unscrewed and the cover is removed.
The main mechanism is being dismantled. The maximum gear is the main gear, it contains the friction discs of the spinning reel.
The decorative strip is removed, the slider guide is removed.
The stopper of the worm assembly is dismantled, the cover is unscrewed and the "tooth" is taken out, then the "worm" is removed.
After complete disassembly, the product is washed, the coil malfunctions are diagnosed and repaired. For the prevention of malfunctions in the operation of the coil, certain procedures are carried out.
From time to time it is necessary to clean the device from dirt and dust, wipe the bobbin board to remove layers. They lead to wear on the cord and deformation of the collar when the reel handle is turned. But the most important thing in self-prophylaxis of part malfunctions is a timely repaired forestry roller.
The reasons and frequency of roller prevention can be different. It depends on the individual design features. The slide roller unit must be serviced once from 10 to 20 hours of operating time of the device, that is, every three to four fishing trips. A roller based on a ball bearing is serviced at intervals of 40 to 50 hours. This high frequency is caused by the high rotation speed and constant contact with the cord.
Under the roller during operation, by means of a moving cord, water, a suspension of sand, and algae constantly fall. Acting as an abrasive, these substances prematurely wear out the knot, lead to a "cut" in the roller, breakage of the cord and loss of trophies and baits.
Dismantling will require the following tools:
tweezers;
pencil;
crosshead screwdriver;
packing paper napkins;
a set of cotton swabs;
a bottle of liquid oil;
jar of white spirit.
Do not use grease of doubtful composition and origin. A popular option is hydraulic spindle oil.
Before disassembling the line roller, sketch or photograph its position in the assembly. During the entire disassembly process, step-by-step photographic recording should be carried out. The assembly of the spinning reel is carried out in the opposite sequence. How to fix a spinning reel is determined after diagnosing the problem.
Spinning reel repair may be required due to rough handling in gambling fishing. The most popular problems and their consequences arise from contact of a spinning reel with water, careless throwing on sand or ground. The problem may also arise due to a factory defect or through the fault of the fisherman himself. Pay close attention to the washer and bushing of the line roller.
In front-mounted designs, the retaining nut is raised 1–2 mm above the edge of the spool. When the line is wound, it often clings to the nut and sinks under the edge of the spool, which leads to tangling and breakage.
To solve the problem, it is necessary to disassemble the spool with the spool line, unscrew the nut with the brake clutch washers and replace the felt gasket with a similar one made of thin plastic.
If, when winding the fishing line, tapping sounds inside the device, it periodically sticks and gets jammed under light loads, this indicates a failure of the gear mechanism. In such cases, replacement of driven and driving gears is required.
A sign of wear is slight rotation of the device handle in both directions when the lock is on. This is due to the adhesion of dirt or thickening of the lubricant composition. In such a situation, unscrew the backstop bolt, dismantle the coupling, clean and lubricate.
If the spinning reel squeaks or squeaks, you should immediately stop fishing. Noises can appear due to the ingress of dirt, damage to bearings or other components. Such a problem requires disassembling the mechanism, cleaning, lubricating or installing spare parts.
Sometimes, in the process of casting the bait, the line converges in a spiral. This defect is caused by dirt on the line roller. The solution to the problem is to disassemble and lubricate the mechanism assembly.
Occasionally, a defect appears in an uneven, tapered front or rear winding of the fishing line on the spool. In the first case, the washer is removed from the main shaft of the part. And when winding up with a cone, on the contrary, an additional washer is added.
When the line is being etched, a break sometimes occurs due to the self-tightening of the friction clutch. This happens with cheap low-quality parts and the problem is not fixable.
A common defect is the spontaneous dumping of the line-laying bow into the line winding mode. In this case, tighten the shackle screws. If the bow resets itself, try increasing the spring under the cover. To do this, install a gasket on the rod or install a spring with greater rigidity.
At the first stage, the fastening screw is unscrewed. The device is disassembled, taking into account the presence of a washer in the roller cheek. After removing the washer, the mechanism is disassembled. After carefully examining the parts, rinse them in a solvent placed in a container of 50 to 70 grams. Do not rinse the ball bearing, as its grease will be washed off and it will quickly become unusable.
After rinsing the parts, carefully remove any residual dirt and wipe dry with paper towels.
When installing, add one drop of oil per unit. Excess grease is undesirable, since under the action of centrifugal forces, it can get on the line or cord and spoil them.
When installing the roller on the stem, check the ease of rotation. To do this, slide the edge of the folded napkin along the edge of the roller. It should turn easily.
When installing the second bushing, it is necessary to apply half a drop of grease to the bearing. The shoulder with the stem is matched and connected with a screw with tight tightening, but without constriction. The screw must not be processed with a thread lock, since it will be impossible to unscrew it with further preventive maintenance.
After completing the assembly, finally check the work of the video. To do this, slide the edge of a paper napkin over it. The roller should rotate easily and naturally.
Match fishing is intended for casting bait over considerable distances. Therefore, tackle and equipment have special characteristics. The main tackle, designed for long-range action, has a geometry. The spool design has a larger diameter - from 40 to 46 mm. The spool is shallow, and a thin line is used to fill it. The height of the side does not exceed 2 mm.
An additional difference is the presence of a rear clutch. This type of brake can be fine-tuned. The design allows you to fish even large fish with a thin line. The tightening torque is adjustable.
The gear ratio is also different from the conventional design, it is 5.7: 1.
Most breakdowns are easily repaired in the field or at home, with your own hands. Difficult breakdowns are eliminated in specialized workshops. In the event of the slightest malfunction or suspicious noise in the spinning reel, you must immediately suspend the operation of the device and immediately begin to eliminate the problem. Continuing to work with a defective device can result in permanent damage or costly repairs.