VIDEO
As a result of many years of regular reading, one of the books in my library needed renovation. This is quite an exciting activity that can become a good hobby, and even a source of income. Let's start!
On examination, it turned out:
The block is quite strong, with the exception of the first page of the first notebook that was torn off along with the frontispiece, and no special intervention is required.
After assessing the damage, we proceed to disassemble the book.
After the spine has become sufficiently wet and the glue on it separates from the paper, carefully separate the binding covers from the block, for which some effort is needed, but not excessive. When separating the covers, you will need to cut off the gauze, which serves to more firmly connect the block with the binding. After removing the lids from the spine, old glue, remnants of gauze and so on are peeled off.
As a rule, reversible adhesives are used in the manufacture of books, i.e. they can be soaked and disassembled without serious consequences.
To restore the endpapers, lay them on a thin silicone film, moisten and orient them relative to each other. Then, using a scalpel, an awl or a needle, we combine the edges of the tears, remove wrinkles and folds. We glue all the damage with paste (the recipe is given below). If necessary, reinforce the fold with equal strength restoration paper. When this stage is completed, turn it over, move the endpaper to the glass backing and remove the silicone film, leaving it on the glass. The glass must be perfectly clean, because otherwise, the sheet will stick tightly to it. You can play it safe and carefully remove the not yet completely dried endpaper from the glass and transfer it to a sheet of blotting paper for final drying.
We coat the endpaper with paste and glue a sheet of paper on it to strengthen it and dry it. For better adhesion and alignment of the reinforcement sheet, you can roll it with a roller. The text on the sheet will face the cardboard binding and will not be visible. After drying, cut off the excess parts of the sheet to the size of the flyleaf.
Now the turn of the block has come. To begin with, put back the first page and frontispiece. To do this, we coat the edge of the block at the spine, glue the page and send it under the press. It is convenient to use a metal ruler to create a narrow strip of paste in the place where the page is glued.
Then the endpapers are glued to the block - similar to the first page, and the spine is additionally reinforced with restoration paper (this is optional). We clamp the block in a vice and glue the paper. The folds of this paper can be folded slightly (5-7 mm) onto the first and last endpaper.
To protect the upper and lower sides of the spine and further strengthen the book block, a captal should be made.
After weaving the captal, we glue the finished gauze for a strong connection between the book block and the binding covers.
When opening a book, the spine should move away from the book block, so we are preparing the so-called. sleeve and lagged behind.
Cut out a strip of thin leather and collect both binder covers on it and lag behind with the sleeve. As a result, we get an almost finished binding.
As a completion, you need to trim the sleeve a little and wrap a leather strip on the back that serves as a spine.
The next step is the embossing of the title and the author's name on the spine.To do this, select the Arial font, which is in tune with the font on the original binding, and use the stamping foil to apply the name to the leather.
To give some originality and recognition to the binding, it was decided to make the title and authors on a separate, slightly darker rectangle of leather, and then paste it into the spine.
It remains to paste the block into the cover.
You can immediately grease the spine and endpapers with paste and place the block in the binding, but it is easier and more accurate to first glue the back cover to the block, and only then begin to glue the binding covers onto the endpapers.
We glue the endpapers to the cardboard and send them under the press. In this case, the pressure of a small iron is sufficient.
Flour glue recipe:
Liquid glue:
Thick glue:
In this article, Buklya will tell you how to restore a book with your own hands and give it a second life, and at the same time show your creative abilities.
In the age of information technology and the Internet, there are still people among us who prefer the smell of ink, hardcover and the yellow pages of this book. Many of us love to hold a book and flip through rustling pages. But, unfortunately, a favorite book can be worn out and become unusable.
Before us is an old book whose cover has come off and the pages are peeling off. If nothing is done, then soon the book will simply fall apart and have to bind it again.
As you can see, there is no cover at all from behind, so we will make it ourselves, using available means.
So, first, let's carefully remove the front of the cover to make it clearer what needs to be fixed. In addition to a new hard cover, it is necessary to make a new endpaper, glue the block so that the book does not lose pages, and make a captal tape (this tape holds the block of pages with the cover).
Very slowly and carefully we remove all unnecessary from the pages. In the event that the captal sits firmly and does not want to peel off in any way, then there is no need to remove this element. You can just glue it with PVA.
In the event that the tape is completely torn off, then you need to make a new one.
To do this, take a simple gauze and cut out a rectangle that matches the size of the book spine.
If, after gluing the gauze, the excess fabric protrudes, it can be cut off with scissors.
As a result, we should get as shown in the picture above. Note that the gauze can be glued in one layer or in several layers for a more secure attachment.
For better binding of the pages of the book and gauze, you should apply glue over the gauze, distribute it evenly over the spine of the book and put it under the press.
Other books or any other heavy object can be used as a press.
While the glue on our block is drying, we will take care of the cover, endpapers and spine.
For the new cover, we need cardboard or very thick paper. It is necessary to measure the old cover, if any. If it is absent, then you need to measure the book and add 5 mm on all sides.
The cover can be divided into two parts to make two rectangles, or you can cut a solid one, but then you have to make an effort to fold it correctly at the spine of the book.
Now let's get started with the flyleaf.For this we need white paper, the most common one. If you are a creative person and really want to do something unusual, then you can take pastel paper, which is slightly stronger than ordinary paper or just colored paper.
Fold the leaflet for the endpaper in half along its length. As a result, the endpaper should be the same size as the pages of the book.
Paste the flyleaf on the first page of the block. To do this, you need to step back 5 mm from the spine along its entire length.
In the same way, we make the second endpaper and glue it on the last page of our book.
We end up with a very paperback book.
Take the gauze again and make a new base that will hold the pages and endpaper. On this basis, we will attach a new spine of the book.
This time, the width on each side of the gauze should be 2cm wider so that the pages can be wrapped around the sides. It turns out that the gauze will be on the flyleaf. Later, when we glue the cover, the fabric will go under the endpaper, so we will connect one side of the paper to the cover.
If desired, the gauze can be glued in several layers.
Ultimately, we should end up with the image above. The book is already taking on a new look.
Now let's start creating a new cover for our book. We have already prepared the cardboard, but in order for our cover to have a more attractive look, we need a white sheet (another color is possible) A4.
Lubricate the cardboard with glue and attach it to the middle of the sheet.
Once the glue is dry, cut off the corners of the sheet, slightly stepping back from the edge of the cardboard.
We grease the protruding edges of the paper with glue and carefully glue it to the cardboard. We must try to make sure that the glue does not protrude onto the cardboard, otherwise it will not be very beautiful. Do not forget to remove excess air when we glue the paper to the cardboard, otherwise it will go in bubbles and we will have to start over.
Adjusts the rest of the paper in the same way. The result will be the first blank for the future cover. After gluing all sides, it is necessary to place this part under the press until it is completely dry.
We make the back of the cover in the same way.
After the cover is dry, we need to glue it to the endpaper of the book.
Take another sheet of paper and place it under the top of the endpaper. Gently grease the flyleaf and the gauze that is glued to it with glue.
The glue should be applied quickly to prevent the paper from getting wet.
We glue the cover on the flyleaf and smooth it with a soft cloth to remove any irregularities, if any. We do the same with the back of the cover, after which we put the entire book under the press.
While the book is under pressure, we will make a new spine.
To do this, take a graph paper to make a pattern for the spine. We measure the width, given that the spine has a rounded shape, and length. I got 3, 5 cm.After that we add 2 cm on each side.
According to the parameters obtained, we make a pattern and apply it to the material from which we will make the spine.
As a material, you can use leather, paper, fabric and any other materials.
It is necessary to make lines on the material along which the folds will be visible, which should go to the bottom and top of the cover.
It is best to start gluing the spine at the bottom of the book. We grease the protruding 2 cm with glue and put the book on top, then press it.
Only then can the rest of the spine be glued. We send the book under the press until the glue is completely dry.
That's all! We got a new cover, and the book used a completely different look.
It all depends on your imagination and creative thinking.
The article was written based on the magazine "Fair of Masters" (bookbinding).
Beloved or useful books can be very difficult to part with. Even if from time to time, careless handling or too frequent use, they become unusable.However, it is quite possible to give a second life to a volume of poetry dear to the heart or a book of useful advice inherited from a grandmother at home with your own hands.
The cover is the first thing to look for when assessing the condition of a book. If its front or back parts are missing or badly damaged, endpapers are in a deplorable state, then there is nothing left to do but make a new one. Or use a suitable one from some other book, which is not a pity to donate. To begin with, consider the second option, as the simplest:
We carefully separate the cover to be replaced from the main block of the restored book, trying to preserve its integrity as much as possible.
We clean a suitable finished cover from another book from the remnants of glue and paper. The main thing here is that it corresponds to the required size.
If you managed to find a suitable cover entirely, then all that remains is to think about the design. For this, you can use well-preserved fragments from the old cover. Scan them, correct them, for example in Photoshop, print them on a color printer and stick them on the front, back and spine. But you can show your creative imagination and make the design original copyright.
In order to make a new cover with your own hands, you will need suitable sheets of cardboard, preferably thick, 1.5–2 mm thick. But a simple one will do, including again from the covers of old or unnecessary books. Only the technology will now be somewhat different:
The word binding in a narrow special meaning is that part of the book that holds all its pages together. But quite often it is also used in a broader sense, speaking for example, old binding, chic binding, etc. Or they mean the process of weaving paper sheets itself. The binding of old books is a kind of history keeper. Indeed, at different times, different technologies were used in their manufacture. However, in order to master the basics of bookbinding at home, it is enough to deal with paperback or hardcover books.
How to glue a paperback book? It must be glued together, because all the sheets of such a book are connected only by a thin adhesive layer applied over the entire area of the spine. The cover itself is glued directly to the page block in a simple but usually unreliable way. It is, indeed, soft, sometimes it is glossy outside. Very often, a book with such a cover begins to fall apart on the very first day of purchase. And in this case, there is no choice but to glue the book with your own hands again. But first you need to buy glue for bookbinding.
In no case should you use silicate glue and tape! From silicate glue, it is also called clerical, the binding will become hard and brittle, and the adhesive tape will lose its properties in a few years. In addition, it can be difficult to remove without damaging the paper on which it was once glued.
Book restoration is the only way to preserve printed materials. Sometimes it happens that from improper use they lose their original appearance. You don't have to throw away such a book, but start repairing it. This will extend her life for years.
There is an opinion that the printed book will disappear. But decades pass, and books are still highly valued. Everyone has books that are dear to their hearts. These can be gifts from people close to him, collections of advice or favorite poems. If you feel sorry for throwing away a thing dear to your heart, then you should definitely master the basics of carrying out repairs. To carry out repairs yourself, you need to have some tools.
Among those tools that will be needed for the restoration of books, there must be:
If you plan to repair the binding, then you should also prepare the threads. Normal cotton thread will not work. They are too thin for the job and can be easily torn by sharp paper edges. It is recommended to buy threads used for quilting clothes.They are sturdy and reliable.
If you do not want to do binding sewing, then you can do without it. There are special hooks on sale that are used to restore books. You can buy them at a stationery store. If you like the idea of using hooks, then you need to buy a hole punch. With its help, it will be possible to make the same mounting holes.
The problem with paperback books is that the pages start to fall out very quickly. This can happen on the first day of purchase. Hence the low cost of such books. You cannot sew a paperback book, you just need to glue it. In no case should you use scotch tape. In a few years, it will lose its properties, and the problem will return again. Moreover, it can only get worse, because it is very difficult to completely remove traces of the adhesive tape without damaging the pages. Therefore, it is better to hide the tape far away, and instead buy special glue. But silicate glue is also not suitable for this job. Before starting all work, it is imperative to clean the roots from the old glue. This will allow it to better adhere to the pages. Remove marks with soft sandpaper. After completing such work, you need to thoroughly clean the spine with a brush.
Paperbacks can be repaired with the following stock of materials:
special glue for binding books;
reliable thread;
jigsaw for metal;
clamping device.
The process of restoration of books with paperback looks like this.
First remove the cover and fold and align all pages carefully. Clamp them with a special device so that they do not disintegrate during the restoration process.
Then clean the pages of the remnants of glue and torn paper. To do this, use soft sandpaper. All movements should be light and smooth so as not to damage the stack of pages.
Cuts are made along the entire length with a spine saw. They should go deep into the spine at a distance of up to 2 mm. The distance between the cuts themselves needs to be 3-4 cm.
After that, you need to count the number of cuts made and cut the same amount of thread. The length of the threads should be the same as the length of the cuts.
The recesses made are cleaned of dust and debris. Glue is applied to the threads, in the cuts, and then the threads are inserted into the grooves.
The book is left to dry completely. When it is dry, you can start attaching the cover. You can leave the old cover and attach it with glue. However, it is recommended to replace it with a solid one to make the book more durable.
At home, you can restore not only the paperback, but also the hard one. For this, the cover is removed. If her condition is satisfactory, with few defects, then she can be scanned, and the resulting image processed in Photoshop. Missing places can be replaced with new ones to your liking. If you don't want to restore the old cover, create a completely new one. It will decorate the book and will look very original.
The printed new cover is glued to the base. The cover from an old book can be the basis. It will be very good if you can fit it exactly to the size of the book. In this case, you just have to stick the printed sheet on it and attach it to the pages. Before that, it is worth cleaning the spine from traces of glue and torn pages.
If you didn't manage to find the cover by the required parameters, then you can make it yourself. This requires cardboard and leather. The cardboard is cut out to the desired parameters and covered with paper. Then everything is left to dry for several hours under a press. If the house has a library, then a stack of books will brilliantly play the role of the press.
When the product dries up, you need to start making the spine. It is recommended to take natural leather or a quality substitute. It must be attached on both sides with glue. Its length is calculated based on the length of the product itself.
A hardcover book can be considered refurbished if the cover is already attached to the spine.
The restoration of old books is a very important step, because one awkward movement can completely ruin the book. There are agencies that do this professionally. With their help, the restoration will be perfect. They have extensive experience in such work and have the right materials. But if you want to do the restoration of old books with your own hands, then you need to study the information on how this is done. In a professional setting, paper pulp is used to fill in the missing fragments of pages. At home, you can align the pages with a press. To do this, you need to unfold the book. To restore the lost fragments, you can use new sheets of paper, composing them mechanically.
It is necessary to carry out the restoration if the book is being prepared for sale. This will help raise its value. They also often restore old books for the home library. A restored book can be stored and used for many years. Some connoisseurs of antiques claim that it remains in good condition for up to 100 years.
The restoration of an old book often takes place using old materials: fragments of pages, endpapers, covers. But this is available only in special agencies that deal with this. Over the years of practice, they have accumulated a lot of materials that have survived since the Middle Ages. But it is not at all necessary to order a restoration service with old materials. You can make repairs with new materials that are amenable to artificial aging.
If you do not know what are the stages of restoration, then pay attention to this section. Stages of restoration work:
parsing the book into pages;
assessment of the work to be done;
alignment of folded elements;
restoration of lost fragments;
restoration of the cover;
stitching elements.
If you need to make repairs very quickly, then some agencies may offer a conservation service. This allows you to bring the book into its proper form, but with a prerequisite for further restoration. This service will also be relevant for those people who do not currently have the required amount to pay for full repair services.
There are engraved covers that can be restored at home. To do this, you need to scan the remaining engraving and paint it on your PC. Next, you need to make a cliche and stamp the desired inscription with it. If an illustration is lost, then you can independently find the same book in the library and scan the missing illustration.
Old books may have metal parts on the cover that are lost over time. They can also be replaced at home. This requires experience in metal processing if the legs are lost. If you need curly corners, then it is better to turn to professionals.
But the resulting elements will sparkle with new metal, which betrays the restoration process. Metal parts can be chemically aged and the result is very good.
Do-it-yourself book restoration is a lengthy process that requires perseverance, patience and time. If you make every effort, then you will be satisfied with the result of the work.
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I would like to tell you about two enough easy ways to bind magazines and books , as well as separate sheets from various magazines with articles you need, for example, about cooking. Over time, such magazines bound in the form of books will make an excellent library. In the years of stagnation, when good books were in short supply, I collected "science fiction" published in the magazines "Technology of Youth" and "Ural Pathfinder", in which the stories and stories of interest to me were printed with sequels. The binding methods that I want to propose here, I have not yet come across in the literature. I, of course, did not invent them myself, but spied on a specialist from the city of Priuralsk.
Usually, when binding, individual sheets are folded into a pile, in which, stepping back from the edge of the spine, holes are punched, drilled or pierced, and then the sheets are sewn using these holes. However, as a result of this technology, part of the text turns out to be difficult to read, especially on those sheets on which the text is located very close to the edge of the sheet from the side of the spine of the future book.
The book, formed from sheets according to the technology proposed below, is to some extent relieved of this shortcoming. At the initial stage of bookbinding, in both cases, the same operations are carried out: they fold the sheets into a pile, trim them along the lower and leading edges, the upper edge can be trimmed later. After all, as you know, sheets even from the same magazine, but from different issues, usually do not coincide in format. Then the stack is compressed using a press, vise or clamp. The simplest version of the clamp is two flat boards (two corners made of metal), tightened on both sides with bolts (Fig. 1). Clamp the stack (from the side of the spine) in a vise so that the narrowest sheet looks out of the vise by about 5 mm (see Fig. 1). Then they clean the spine with a large file, removing the strongly protruding edges of the sheets, and then saw through the transverse grooves with a hacksaw or a jigsaw in the spine (the number of grooves - at your discretion) to a depth of 1.5. 2 mm. This is the main feature of the proposed binding technology. After all, if the sheets are punched or drilled at such a distance from the edge, then the threads threaded into the holes will inevitably break through the edges of the sheets. So you can place holes from the edge of the block at a distance of at least 1. 1.5 cm, which will definitely lead to "capture" of the text.
Having made the cuts, the block (package) is installed with the spine up. Next, the spine is coated with PVA glue (or bustilate), diluted thinner, so that it penetrates into the gaps between the sheets, as well as into the cuts. Then, pieces of nylon or other strong thread are placed in the cuts so that the ends extend beyond the root by about 2.3 cm (Fig. 2, a) or (as you like) pull the root together with one long thread (Fig. 2, b). In conclusion, the entire spine is once again coated with glue. When the glue dries, the ends of the threads are cut off and a light cover is made for the block, that is, they simply glue a thick paper cover to the spine and glue the endpapers. (The endpapers are the first and also the last double sheets of the block connecting it to the cover. - Editor's note.) From such a book, the sheets will no longer pop out like from cheap store books in paperbacks. In a similar way, the crumbled aforementioned store books are also strengthened. But nevertheless, in both cases it is better to make a hard cover instead of a paperback.
When making a hard cover, a piece of cloth or gauze is glued to the spine of the block using a polyvinyl acetate emulsion (Fig. 3) so that parts of a piece of cloth 2.3 cm wide extend beyond the lateral edges of the spine. Captals are glued to the upper and lower edges of the spine, that is, pieces of finishing braid with a roller on the edge (double-folded bright cloth scraps are also suitable). However, you can do it and not do it. Next, two cover covers are cut out of the cardboard. The width of each cover should be the same as the width of the glued block. There are many different options for making lids, but I want to offer the most, as I think, the simplest one. Cutting out the cardboard covers, I pick up a beautiful fabric, oilcloth, leaderin, etc. From the binding material, cut out a blank for the book, not forgetting to provide 2.3-cm margin allowances from the side of the upper, lower and front edges. The distance between the covers is equal to the width of the spine plus 2 × 8 mm (Fig. 4, a). Between the covers on a blank made of material, you can glue a lag - a strip of thick paper or whatman paper (the width of the strip is equal to the width of the block). The covers are thoroughly coated with PVA and glued to the blank of clothes, smoothing well so that there are no bubbles. Then the edges of the workpiece are wrapped on lids (Fig.4, b), stick to them and dry the finished cover under pressure.
Next, we place the previously formed block of sheets in the center of the cover (Fig. 5) and glue the edges of the fabric fixed on the spine to the covers of the cover.
We are preparing two endpapers, each of which is a white sheet of paper folded in half. Glue one half of the sheet to the lid (Fig. 6), and the other half to the outer sheet of the block, and the endpaper is not completely glued to the sheet, leaving a 1 cm wide strip without glue adjacent to the fold of the endpaper.
Everything, the binding is finished, and the book is being put under the press. Of course, I do not know professional terms, but it seems to me that I presented everything clearly.
I also want to suggest a notebook binding method for magazines. It is somewhat different from the traditional one, when holes are formed along the spine edges of the magazines, for example, with a hole punch, and the magazines are pulled with a string. It is clear, in this case, part of the text is not always readable. My notebook method is devoid of this drawback, since the entire binding is made on the outside of the spine.
First, put all the magazines in a pile and mark the places of future punctures in the spines along the line (Fig. 7).
Then they take the last issue of the magazine and sew it through the middle with a large needle along the marks, forming three or five stitches (Fig. 8, a). Note that with this firmware, the "native" metal clips of magazines can even be removed. The next magazine, laid on top, is stitched in the same way, but in the opposite direction. After each stitching, the thread is tightened, removing the backlash (slack). After finishing the sewing of the second magazine, the thread (with the needle) is tied to the end of the thread sticking out of the lower magazine (Fig. 8, b). It is clear that the third magazine is stitched in the same way as the first, and at the end of the seam, its thread is tied to the seam of the second magazine, prying on the first stitch of the seam of this magazine with a needle.
For strength, the threads of the seams of all magazines are knitted at their entry and exit points (see Fig. 7). In principle, such a filing can already be used. But it is better to clamp the sewn stack in a press (vise) and grease the spine with liquid PVA glue. After drying, a solid block is already obtained. And of course, it is better to make a hardcover for the stack, as described above. It is advisable to cut the edges, but if the magazines are the same, then you can not do this. Otherwise, without training, the cut will turn out to be a curve.
no, I offer two options, how to quickly and easily update your favorite book .
But first, before dressing the book in a beautiful cover, if necessary, it needs to be patched up.
Second : Remove the cover if it is badly tattered. As far as possible, we tear off all the particles of paper and glue.
Third : If a book looks like a stack of paper and falls into separate sheets, then drastic measures are needed!
Perhaps you will come up with an analogue from improvised means (with which you can replace the clamp to clamp the book).
If possible, remove scraps of binding and old glue. After that, with a jigsaw, we make cuts along the entire length of the binding, 1-2 mm deep at a distance of about 3-4 cm from each other. We remove debris from the cuts.
Now we take a strong thread and cut it into pieces equal to the number of cuts you made and a length slightly longer than the thickness of the book.
We take glue, apply it to the sawn places and insert the threads there. We are waiting for everything to dry.
Well, now we decide what kind of cover we want to make for our favorite book.
Here I personally see two possible options:
1) Completely make a new hard cover.
2) We use ready-made, used ones.
Indeed, sometimes it happens that in the home library there are books lying around that were rarely taken in hand, already completely irrelevant and, frankly, unnecessary!
In such cases, I take them almost for a new binding, and throw the book itself away.
We take it, clean it as much as possible (as much as possible) from paper and glue.
Now we again need glue and 2 blank A4 sheets.
We fold each sheet in half and apply it to the cover, cut off the excess. We take glue and grease the cover with it from the inside, we also coat our booklet with glue. Now we connect everything by placing a cropped and folded white sheet between the book and the cover. We smooth and crush everything well, very carefully.
Cut off excess paper if it goes over the edges. We put it under the load until it dries completely.
Pay attention that excess glue does not get where it is not needed, otherwise, after drying, you will not have to admire the fruits of your labor, turning the pages, but simply throw out this glued paper brick.
Well, then we proceed as described above. We take glue and 2 blank A4 sheets. We fold each sheet in half and apply it to the cover, cut off the excess.
Now we take glue and grease the cover with it from the inside, then we take our booklet and also coat it with glue.
We connect everything by laying a cropped and folded white sheet between the book and the cover. We smooth everything well and crush it, very carefully. We cut off the excess paper (if it goes beyond the edges), we also carefully wipe off the excess glue. We put it under the load until it dries completely.
I would like to draw your attention to the fact that not only beautiful fabric can serve as a material for the cover, but, for example, wallpaper remaining after repair.
Video (click to play).
Be creative and come up with new ideas! Wish you success!
