DIY coaxial speaker repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of coaxial speakers from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Are the speakers wheezing? Do not rush to throw them away, getting rid of the wheezing of the speakers is possible and not so difficult. Speaker wheezing, a fairly common phenomenon, is most often found in broadband acoustics, due to dust and all kinds of debris trapped between the core and the coil, which, when moving the speaker cone, causes an unpleasant sound in the form of a speaker wheezing. Speaker repair consists in disassembling the speaker and removing the source of the unpleasant sound.

A wheezing four-way coaxial speaker from Pioneer was repaired. The main tool for disassembling the speaker, a regular, flat screwdriver and a soldering iron.

First of all, I removed the buzzer module. In this model, the buzzer module was fastened with a long bolt, which was hidden under the magnet sticker. On other models, the tweeters can be simply glued, in which case, they need to be ripped off, but before that, if possible, unsolder the wires going to the tweeters.

In the lower photo, if you look closely, you can see debris between the metal core and the sound winding.

After the tweeter module was unscrewed and the wires were sealed from it, armed with a screwdriver, he forged the plastic cover that presses the rubber suspension of the diffuser and carefully, slowly, was peeled off.

With the same tool, I peeled off the diffuser suspension. With a screwdriver, it is enough to pry it off a little, then you can peel it off with your hands.

I unsoldered the wiring to start peeling off the centering washer.

Peeling off the centering washer is a little more difficult than previously peeled off parts, you can't rush here, it is easy to damage the washer.

Video (click to play).

There was a lot of debris inside the speaker, no wonder it was constantly wheezing.

On the voice coil of the speaker, scratches are visible, proving the presence of foreign objects, the insulation of the winding is damaged. The protective layer of the winding, it is advisable to restore, for this you can open it with varnish or epoxy resin over the scratches, with a small layer.

We clean, wash, vacuum all parts of the speaker.

Well, now the most difficult thing that had to be faced with the repair of speakers is the removal of metal particles magnetized to the core. A vacuum cleaner cannot cope with them. Scotch came to the rescue, with the help of just such not cunning actions, everything that was superfluous in the dynamics was removed.

Then it was necessary to glue everything into place. I glued the speaker with ordinary, universal glue. Moment.

I did not remove the old traces of glue, since it is easy to navigate along them when gluing the speaker, which allows you to glue it correctly and without distortions. But all the same, you need to check if the winding clings to the core when the diffuser moves.

If everything went well, there is no extraneous noise when the diffuser moves, we add it, solder it, assemble the speaker.

Refurbished speaker, pictured on the right. The speaker repair was successful, everything works and does not wheeze.

There is absolutely nothing in disassembling the speaker, there is nothing complicated, everything is simple and easy, the main thing is not to rush. It took me about an hour to repair one speaker.

Today, the number of good sound lovers who just throw out a wheezing speaker is not decreasing! At the same time, the cost of an analogue can be a tangible amount. I think the following will help anyone who has hands that grow out of the right place to fix the speaker.

Available - a miracle of design thought, once the former column S-30 (10AC-222), now serving as one of the autosubs.A week later, after the mutation, the patient began to show signs of the disease - he emitted extraneous sounds when working out the bass parts, and wheezed a little. It was decided to conduct an autopsy.

After autopsy, a diseased organ was removed from the patient's body - woofer 25GDN-1-4, 86 of release. The organ clearly needed operation - when gently pressing the diffuser, an extraneous sound was heard (very similar to a quiet click), and when ringing in various tones (generated by the nchtoner program), a clearly audible rattling-crackling was heard with a large diffuser stroke and when ultra-low (5-15Hz) ) frequencies. It was decided to trepan this organ

First, the patient's flexible lead wires were sealed off (from the side of the contact pads)

Then a solvent (646 or any other capable of dissolving glue, such as "Moment") was moistened with a syringe with a needle to the place where the dust cap and the diffuser were glued (along the perimeter).

... the place where the centering washer is glued to the diffuser (around the perimeter).

... and the place where the diffuser itself is glued to the basket of the diffuser holder (again around the perimeter)

In this state, the speaker was left for 15 minutes with periodic repetition of the previous three points (as the solvent was absorbed / evaporated)

Attention! When working with a solvent, safety measures should be observed - avoid contact with skin (use rubber gloves!) And mucous membranes! Do not eat or smoke! Work in a well ventilated area!

When wetting - use a small amount of solvent, avoiding getting it on the gluing area of the coil and centering washer!

Depending on the type of solvent and air temperature, after 10-15 minutes of the above operations, using a sharp object, you can gently pry off the dust cap and remove it. The cap should either come off very easily or offer very little resistance. If you need to make significant effort, repeat the operations with wetting its edges with a solvent and waiting!

After peeling off the cap, carefully pour out the remaining solvent from the recess near the coil mandrel (by turning the patient over).

By this time, the centering washer has time to peel off. Carefully, without using any efforts, we separate it from the basket of the diffuser holder. if necessary, re-wet the gluing site with a solvent.

Wet the place where the diffuser is glued to the diffuser holder. We wait. We wet again and wait again. After about 10 minutes, you can try to peel off the diffuser. Ideally, it should detach from the diffuser holder (together with the coil and centering washer) without effort. But sometimes he needs a little help (the main thing is accuracy! Do not damage the rubber suspension.)

We clean the gluing points from the old glue and dry the disassembled speaker. We examine the disassembled patient for a malfunction. We look at the coil. If there are no scuffs and loose turns on it, we leave it alone. When peeling off the coil, glue it back with a thin layer of BF-2 glue.

We carefully inspect the place where the lead wires are attached to the diffuser. So it is - the patient has the most common malfunction in old speakers with a large diffuser travel. The lead wire at the attachment point is frayed / broken. What kind of contact can we talk about when everything hangs on a thread passed into the center of the wiring!

Gently bend back the copper antennae.

... and unsolder the lead wires.

We repeat the operation for the second wiring (even if he is still alive - the disease is easier to prevent!)

We cut the supply wiring at the break point.

... and we serve the resulting ends (of course - first we use rosin).Here you need to be careful! Use a small amount of low-melting solder - the solder is absorbed into the wire like a sponge!

Gently solder the wiring into place, bend the copper "antennae" and glue (Moment, BF-2) the place where the wiring adheres to the diffuser. Remember - you cannot solder the wires to the fastening "antennae"! Otherwise, how can the wiring be changed again in ten years?

We collect the speaker. We put the diffuser with the entire “household” into the diffuser holder, orienting the wiring to the places of their attachment. Then we check the correctness of the polarity - when connecting a 1.5V AA battery to the terminals, when connecting the “+” battery to the “+” of the speaker, the diffuser will “jump out” of the basket. We put the diffuser so that its “+” lead wiring is at the “+” mark on the speaker basket.

We solder the lead wires to the contact pads. Please note that the length of the wires has decreased by almost half a centimeter. Therefore, we solder them not as it was at the factory - to the hole in the plate, but with a minimum margin to maintain the length.

We center the diffuser in its basket using film (or thick paper), which we place in the gap between the core and the coil. The main rule is to place the centering evenly around the perimeter, to maintain the same gap. The amount (or thickness) of the centering should be such that when the diffuser is slightly protruding outward, it freely rests on it and does not fall inward. For the 25GDN-1-4 speaker, 4 pieces of film are enough for this, placed in pairs in front of each other. The length of the film should be such that it does not interfere if you put the speaker on the diffuser. For what - read below. We glue the diffuser. We use the indication for the glue used (I recommend "Moment", the main selection criterion, so that the glue can be subsequently dissolved with a solvent). I usually stick out the diffuser 1-1.5 cm up so that the centering washer does not touch the basket of the diffuser holder, then I apply a thin layer of glue on it and the basket with a brush, wait and firmly push the diffuser inside, additionally press the washer against the basket around the perimeter with my fingers ... Then I glue the diffuser (in the retracted state, without skewing).

We leave the speaker upside down for several hours under load (this is why our film should not protrude beyond the plane of the diffuser!).

Then we check the speaker for correct assembly. We take out the centering and carefully check the diffuser travel with our fingers. It should walk easily, without emitting overtones (there should be no touching of the coil and core!). We connect the speaker to the amplifier and send low-frequency tones of low volume to it. Extraneous sounds should be absent. In case of improper gluing (misalignment, etc.), the speaker must be glued (see above) and reassembled, being careful! With a high-quality assembly, we get 99% of a fully working speaker.

We glue the edge of the dust cap with glue, wait and carefully glue it to the diffuser. Here you need accuracy and precision - a crookedly glued cap does not affect the sound quality, but it spoils the speaker's appearance very much. when gluing, do not press on the center of the cap. It can bend from this and you will have to peel it off, straighten it, coat it from the inside with a thin layer of epoxy for strength and stick it back.

We wait until all parts are completely glued together (about a day) and put the finished speaker in its place. We enjoy the sound, which is no worse than that of the new factory analogous speaker.

That's it, now you can see that fixing a speaker is an easy task. The main thing is slowness and accuracy! So in an hour, you can slowly repair almost any woofer or midrange speaker of domestic or foreign production (for gluing imported speakers, a more powerful solvent is often required, such as acetone or toluene, carefully - they are poisonous.) Having a similar defect.

Yes, after the operation, the former patient got a second wind and the cheerful yellow subs continue to do their hard bass work:

The current state of the market with loudspeaker prices makes speaker repair virtually unnecessary, but if there are difficulties in purchasing a new speaker instead of a damaged or damaged one, then it makes sense to try to restore the damaged loudspeaker with your own hands. I got a few coaxial speaker systems from various cars. Unfortunately, 2/3 of the speakers produce a distorted signal during playback, and the rest simply do not work. Below will be presented material only on the restoration of "littered" coaxial-type car speakers for use in the future in the design or installation in multi-way stationary speaker systems. Before starting work, we will carry out diagnostics speaker states.

1. Check for "trash". Coaxial speakers are not fully protected from foreign objects falling into the magnetic gap, this is especially dangerous for old cars covered with rust or cars that have undergone body repairs. Checking is simple - gently with your fingers moving diffuser inside the magnetic system, if at the same time extraneous sounds are clearly audible: rustles, crackles, rattling, then this means that metal debris may have got into the magnetic gap.

2. We take a tester and in ohmmeter mode we check the resistance of the coil. If there is resistance, then this is our case. If there is no resistance, then it makes sense to check the thick flexible copper conductors from the speaker terminals to the diffuser for an open circuit. If there is no break, then most likely there is a break in the speaker coil and this case of self-repair is not considered in this article. Instructions for self-repair are given below.

1. We unsolder the flexible leads of the coil from the contact lugs of the speaker connection and the contact lugs of the coaxial speaker.

2. Remove the coaxial speakers. Repair of the speaker system is not provided by the manufacturer and coaxial speakers are installed tightly... The column with reinforced tweeters was removed by drilling an aluminum rivet. We work carefully, the main thing is not to tear or damage anything.

3. On the forums for repairing speakers, there are ways to dismantle the diffuser and centering washer. I also went along this path. We carry out the work in the open air in the absence of open fire sources! After spending 100 ml of acetone, it was not possible to peel off the diffuser and the washer. The solvent evaporated quickly without softening the glue line. In order to save time and solvent, a cord made of cotton cloth was placed in place of gluing and moistened with acetone; if necessary, moistening as it evaporated continued until the glue softened. After softening with a thin screwdriver, he forged the edge of the centering washer and lifted it over the gluing point. With the corrugation of the diffuser made of thin rubber, you need to be more careful and delicate so as not to damage the rubber.

Pouring solvent onto the corrugation

4. Remove the diffuser. From trapped debris inside the magnetic system, damage-tearing of the speaker coil insulation is noticeable. It is useful under a magnifying glass to see the degree of damage for the presence of short-circuited turns (scratches to a depth of more than 40% of the coil wire diameter), if there is a suspicion of short-circuited turns, then it is better to reject the speaker. Using a damp cloth, I cleaned the diffuser, centering washer and coil inside and outside from dirt. Cleaning should be done carefully so as not to damage the coil.

There are scratches on the coil

5. The gap in the magnetic system is a sad sight. Strong magnet holds fine metal debris and dust firmly. I tried to clean it mechanically, but the small size of the gap and its curvature did not allow successfully removing debris. Decided to use a strong blast of air from an air compressor - it was not possible to clear the gap! Another remedy had to be used - a high-pressure jet of water from a car wash. The result is that I am all wet, but the gap is 100% cleaned, and at the same time the whole frame of the frame shone like new. I tried to do it carefully, since the pressure of the water jet is very high and I suppose with special zeal it is possible to destroy the gluing of the speaker magnet. To prevent rusting, you must immediately dry the frame and magnet. After drying, it is useful to check the cleanliness of the gap under a magnifying glass. And as experience has shown, it is good to seal the gap with tape to protect it from accidental metal debris.

1. After cleaning and drying the speaker components, we assemble the structure. It's important not to rush. The goal is to position the coil in the magnet system exactly in the center and to ensure there is clearance and no touching the coil. From a strip of A4 format office paper 10 cm wide and about 18 cm long, we roll up the cylinder and insert it into the diffuser coil. The cylinder must fit snugly against the spool and not have any protrusions or bulges inside.
2. Let's try to insert such a structure into the magnetic system. Do not hurry! Better to practice a few times. The cylinder should descend to the full depth of the magnetic gap and the coil should hardly move over the inserted cylinder. If the coil moves along the cylinder with great effort, then it is necessary to shorten the length of the paper strip, and if the coil moves freely, then it is necessary to increase the length of the paper strip.

Insert the cylinder into the gap

The coil runs tightly in the cylinder

The reel is centered

3. Holding the cylinder in the lower position, raise the diffuser and grease the area for gluing the centering washer with glue of the "Moment" type. We orient the washer according to the leads of the coil conductors and speaker terminals, as well as along the cutouts in the corrugation of the diffuser. We glue the centering washer.

4. We glue the corrugation of the diffuser.

5. After the glue has dried, we solder the coil conductors to the terminals.

6. Carefully remove the paper cylinder. Checking the diffuser travel. If everything is done correctly, then there should be no extraneous sounds.

7. To close the magnetic system from the ingress of debris, I sealed the coil hole on the side of the diffuser with black spunbond, and on the side of the magnet with tape.

Glue the centering washer

Sealing the diffuser hole

Seal the hole with tape

8. Finally, we check the result of the work by connecting the speaker to the sound source.

Using this technique, several speakers were independently restored for installation in stationary speaker systems and radios to replace old or torn speakers.

I tried to collect this way. It didn't always work out.
I did the assembly differently. After gluing the corrugation of the diffuser and the centering washer, until the glue has dried, I connected the dynamic head to a 6.3 volt transformer through a low-resistance variable wire resistor.
It was enough to slightly stir the diffuser.
In this case, the diffuser itself is centered. The noises disappeared immediately. In this position, he dried.

The disadvantage of this method: 50Hz is still hard to withstand for a long time.

The constant must be connected!

Professionals - a must, but amateurs can do so!

How do I get my speaker repaired? FAQ Part 2

This part of the manual explains how to disassemble the speaker's moving system and remove the debris from the magnetic gap.

Access to any question of the FAQ is carried out from any page through the menu "Navigation through the FAQ".

Read also: DIY electric forklift repair

Be careful not to bring steel instruments close to the magnet system, especially on the side of the diffuser or centering washer! This can damage the diffuser or the dust cap!

If you do need to use tools near the magnetic gap, use non-magnetic tools.

If the centering washer is glued with epoxy, repairing the loudspeaker without spare parts can be very problematic.

In other cases, the complexity of the repair depends only on the design of the speaker and the adhesives used during assembly. If the glue with which the suspension is glued and the centering washer can be dissolved with acetone, then you can safely begin disassembly.

Most adhesives dissolve better when the speaker is still young. It happened that such speakers could be disassembled in a matter of minutes. Glue joints made with BF-2, BF-4 glue or glue with similar properties lend themselves best to dismantling.

To disassemble the speaker, you will need the following tools and materials.

Acetone is a solvent.
Alcohol is a solvent.
Pipette * - for dispensing the solvent.
Scalpel - for cutting adhesive joints.
Trowel - for cutting adhesive joints.
Matches are used as spacers.
Calico (cotton fabric) - to remove glue residues.
Box spanner - for dismantling the magnetic system.

Other tools and materials may also be needed.

Chemically pure acetone ** is preferable to other solvents due to its relatively low toxicity. Therefore, it is better to choose acetone even when it is inferior to other solvents. For example, adhesive joints made using 88H glue dissolve better with ethyl acetate, but it is much more toxic.

True, if the diffuser and the centering washer are glued with BF-2 or BF-4 glue, then ethyl alcohol can be used as a solvent. However, the likelihood that water may be in the alcohol makes acetone the preferred choice.

Depending on what exactly is being dismantled, the appropriate dismantling techniques are also selected. So, for example, if a paper suspension is peeled off, then the dissolution of the glue should be carried out with the utmost care. If the rubber suspension is peeled off from the speaker housing, then the work can be done more aggressively.

* A convenient pipette can be made of a glass reeder and an "artificial vein" from a dropper (a rubber band into which needles are inserted right when the medicine is injected into the vein). An ordinary medical pipette quickly breaks down under the action of acetone, and its length does not allow reaching some adhesive joints.

** Pure acetone can be easily distinguished by its smell. You just need to know this smell. Unfortunately, at the present time, under the name "Acetone" they sell anything. Often some arbitrary solvent or a mixture of different solvents is poured into the bottles. And this is not surprising, because we have 400 gr. acetone costs the same as a bottle of vodka. This is a good reason to trade a bottle of vodka for a bottle of pure acetone in some industry.

If you are having difficulty with perseverance, then turn on your favorite movie as the background, since dismantling the moving system of a large speaker can take a long time.

Dismantling of the rubber suspension begins from some edge where the glue beads are less. By adding acetone and raising the edge of the suspension, a cavity is created into which acetone is again poured.

The work will go faster if you start to dissolve the glue in several places at once.

Each time, adding a few drops of acetone to the resulting cavities, the edges are gradually raised. To prevent the suspension from sticking back, matches are substituted under it. As the glue dissolves, the matches are shifted to the edges of the cavity.

It is not recommended to make great efforts when separating rubber from metal. Rubber can deform irreversibly and even crack.

Dismantling a cardboard hanger from the side of the case differs from dismantling non-paper hangers only in that it requires more accuracy and patience.

No great effort should be made to avoid damaging the suspension, which becomes especially vulnerable when exposed to a solvent.

If you use too much solvent, you can damage the mounting plane of the suspension, and the corrugation itself. Therefore, if the adhesive connection is difficult to dissolve, then mechanical action must be used. A not very sharp scalpel will do here.

If you notice that the cardboard corrugation has begun to delaminate, then it is better to suspend work and think about another technology.

After dismantling the paper hanger, the mounting plane may be deformed. You can return it to its original shape if you place the diffuser on a flat glass or other solvent-resistant surface, and again slightly soften the mounting plane with acetone. During this operation, you can also remove the remaining adhesive.

In some cases, for example, when the very edge of the paper corrugation from the side of the body is already damaged, you can cut off the hanger along the edge and build up the lost fastening edge using cloth or paper. It may seem that this is a too time-consuming repair option, but if the suspension is destroyed under the influence of a solvent, it will be completely impossible to restore the speaker without a spare diffuser.

In other cases, it is easier to peel off the suspension from the side of the diffuser, rather than from the side of the body. This method gave good results when repairing speakers 10GDSH-1 (10GD-36) with foam rubber suspensions, however, while they were new.

In some cases, when rewinding the speaker, the centering washer is peeled off only from the side of the case. This is usually done when the glue with which the washer is glued to the diffuser does not dissolve well and the diffuser may be damaged during dismantling.

But, it happens, and vice versa, that it is much easier to glue the joint between the centering washer and the diffuser than along its outer perimeter. Then it becomes possible not to center the speaker during assembly.

However, sometimes, after rewinding and assembling such a speaker, it may require additional centering. This applies mainly to speakers where the centering washer is not glued to the cone, but to the sleeve, and may be due to too large a gap between the sleeve and the centering washer.

When dismantling the centering washer from the side of the body, the adhesive joint is soaked with a solvent immediately along the entire perimeter. As the glue softens, the edge of the washer rises and matches are placed under it.

When dismantling the centering washer from the side of the diffuser, the adhesive is impregnated with a solvent also immediately around the entire perimeter.

To prevent damage to the diffuser due to prolonged exposure to the solvent, the process can be accelerated with a small paddle.

At the end of dismantling the diffuser and the centering washer, remove the remnants of glue from all surfaces using a solvent and coarse calico (cotton fabric).

To prevent debris from getting into the magnetic gap, the gap is sealed with electrical tape.

If metal filings are present in the magnetic gap, parasitic overtones such as rustling, crackling, etc. may appear during speaker operation.

Two simple tools are used to remove the sawdust - a piece of copper or brass wire and a wooden spatula. A spatula for large speakers can be cut out of a handle from a small brush, and for small ones - from a toothpick.

First, with the help of a bent wire, the sawdust is moved to the visible area of the magnetic gap.

Then the wooden spatula is covered with a layer of 88H glue, which is allowed to dry. When the glue hardens slightly, the spatula is placed in the magnetic gap and the sawdust is collected. If it was not possible to remove all the sawdust in one step, then the spatula is cleaned and a new layer of glue is applied to it.

Both of the above operations are repeated until the sawdust is no longer visible in the magnetic gap.

If your loved ones the speakers began to wheeze, but love for them does not allow them to be thrown out, then you can try restore the speakers on your own... The process is troublesome, but the result is worth it.

Hello everyone! My name is Mikhail, now I'll tell you a story about how I managed to exchange a dvenashka for a 2010 Camry. It all started with the fact that I was wildly annoyed by the breakdowns of the two, like nothing serious broke down, but the little things, damn it, so many things that really started to enrage. Here the idea was born that it was time to change the car to a foreign car. The choice fell on the tayet Camry of the tenths.

One day in my the car wheezed (ripelled) the speaker I decided to just replace it with a new one. After I found out that good speakers are not cheap, I decided to give it a try. repair the old speaker yourself... To repair and remove the wheezing of the speaker we need:

Screwdriver
Acetone
Double-sided tape
Camera roll
Knife
Battery 3v
Rubber glue (for example, "Moment")
Syringe
Scissors
Piece of Whatman paper

Soak the upper gum and the lower diffuser from the glue... For this we use a syringe filled with acetone.

Peel off the upper membrane with a sharp knife, while gradually moistening with acetone. We do the same with the lower diffuser.

We unsolder contacts using a soldering iron.

Unscrew the central bolt and carefully extract everything.
If the coil winding is not intact, then you need to turn to the rewinder.

Wipe the coil from metal droplets and debris.

Need to rub around the core... For this we use double-sided tape. We glue it on a piece of narrow cardboard and try to collect the dirt inside.
Need to check, so that the core is strictly centered... It is necessary to clearly center the coil during installation.
Therefore, during installation, the upper speaker will interfere with us, which also needs to be unsoldered.

My speaker rustled due to the fact that the inner part of the coil touched the core. (the trail is clearly visible in the photo).

Centering with photo film... The foil must be wrapped around the core so that it is no more and no less than it.
We carefully put it there so that later you can get it.

We clean the surfaces from glue and apply a new layer of glue... First, lower it to the lower part, where the membrane is located, and once again check the centering using a battery. When the contacts close, the diaphragm should retract.

Leave the glue to dry and check that the membrane is pressed. We do not touch the membrane so as not to knock off the centering.

Further glue the upper part. Apply glue and press for a day. For this I used a saucer that perfectly fit in diameter, a can of paint and my wife's flower 🙂

After drying take out a photo film and checkso that there is no rubbing when pressed.
After soldering everything back.

As a result, I saved on acoustics 2600 RUR

Loudspeaker repair video

Music in the car is a pleasure and entertainment on the road, but there is also one unpleasant moment. The speakers in the car are constantly exposed to dust and dirt, any debris flies in from the street, especially the speakers in the rear shelf of hatchbacks suffer from this. Over time, so much debris accumulates in them that the diffuser begins to emit a terrible grinding noise during operation.

In this article I will show you how you can try to do speaker repair with improvised means at home. There are many similar articles and instructions on the Internet, but I just want to share my experience.

There is a pair of 6x9 ″ car, 3-way, coaxial speakers with the above symptoms. Immediately I will make a reservation, when working, you need to apply maximum caution, accuracy and patience, if this is not about you, then it is better not even to start.

In the preface, I would like to remind a little of the theory about the design and operation of dynamic heads, so it will be easier for me to further explain the process in the text.

The basis of the dynamic head (speaker) is the basket, the frame on which everything rests. A diffuser is glued into the wide part of the basket through the suspension.The diffuser just makes a sound when vibrating, and the suspension provides its freedom of movement. The diffuser is usually domed and can be made of pressed paper, polypropylene, or even aluminum. The suspension is usually made of rubber, in low-power woofers and midrange speakers made of paper. At the constriction of the diffuser there is a coil that moves on a core (core) around the magnet. The permanent magnet increases the EMF of the electromagnetic field, thereby increasing the movement of the diffuser. The coil on the core is centered by the washer creating the required uniform gap between the coil. The centering washer is also glued to the speaker basket. Without it, the coil would hit the magnet or core. From the coil, the wires are led out to and from the diffuser, through flexible "antennae" to the contact area for connection to sound equipment.

The crackle and noise in the speaker is due to debris trapped between the coil and the core during their operation (movement). Such debris can contain metal particles and other magnetic dust, which can be difficult to remove in a simple way. In this case speaker repair begins with their disassembly. I want to make a reservation right away that the speakers by their design are not intended for disassembly and, accordingly, the manufacturers of these speakers do not provide for this in their design. But everything that was assembled can be disassembled, you just need to correctly attach your head and hands.

Disassembling the speaker begins with unsoldering the current-carrying conductors from the diffuser to the terminal block. In our case, this is a car multi-way speaker on the core of which two more smaller ones are attached - the midrange and tweeters. It is also necessary to unsolder the conductors from them, and the case fixing them to the core must be unscrewed with a screw passing through the core from the side of the magnet. In a normal speaker, there is a dust cap on this place of the diffuser and it is not necessary to remove it.

The next step in speaker repair there will be a separation of the diffuser from the basket. We will separate the diffuser together with the suspension, coil and centering washer. In factories and plants, they usually use glue similar to the domestic "moment", so I dissolve it with acetone. We collect acetone into an ordinary medical syringe and moisten the suspension in the places where it is glued to the basket. It's good if you can bend the suspension a little and process it under it, closer to the glue. We do the same with the centering washer, but do not pour a lot of acetone, you can peel off anything you need.

It can take quite a long time for acetone to act, and it is necessary to periodically re-wet it with acetone, because it quickly disappears. When separating the diffuser, you do not need to pull on it, you can break or deform the suspension and the diffuser itself, you can help with a flat screwdriver using it as a spatula. You must act carefully, without rushing, especially when working with sharp objects, otherwise you can easily damage the diffuser and all work to smudge, and the speaker to the trash. If it does not come off, it is better to add acetone and wait a little longer. After separating the diffuser, we turn to the centering washer, it must be handled with the same care and do the same.

Having separated the diffuser from the basket, you can proceed to cleaning the hole around the core (core). To be honest, there are no special recipes here and it is not very easy to clean the magnet from metal debris. The slit is very narrow and it is not realistic to crawl up there with any brushes. I managed to clean it with a metal clip (photo below) which magnetized itself and the metal debris stuck to it. You can try with a wooden or plastic stick, sometimes you can blow it with air under high pressure. In general, we clean the way it turns out, the main thing is that there is no debris left around the core.It is also necessary to clean the coil itself, a lot of debris also sticks to it. It must be handled no less carefully than with other parts, you can damage its round shape and then you will have to look for a suitable round mandrel and straighten it, otherwise the noise from the speaker will be even more than before. By the way, in the photo below you can see how the aluminum frame of the coil is eaten by debris during operation, it happens that the wire is frayed and a break occurs, in this case a new coil is wound, which will require even more time, concentration and action.

Upon completion of cleaning, we can say that on this we have mastered speaker repair, but it remains to collect it, but here, too, there are nuances.

At the end of the work with the glue and upon successful completion of the task of removing debris from the bowels of the speaker, it remains to put the midrange speakers in place on the cores and solder all the wires in place.

P.S. The metal mesh-cover, which usually comes with the speaker, practically does not protect it from dust and small debris, in the future, so that the speaker would live longer without repair, I can advise you to glue ordinary women's nylon tights inside this protective mesh in two or three layers. Through such a filter, small debris will not get inside, the appearance and the speaker itself will be preserved, and the sound will pass without problems.

Video (click to play).

This concludes the article. speaker repair and I hope that the information will be useful to you.

Rate the article:

Grade 3.2 who voted: 85