In detail: DIY repair of a garden wheelbarrow wheel from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Often, by spending very little time, you can avoid additional costs, which are already enough for those who spend the summer in the country and in country houses, caring for buildings, a garden and a vegetable garden. In this particular case, the conversation, or rather, the video sequence, will be about how to bring the wheel of a garden cart back to life in a few minutes. A garden wheelbarrow in the country is never idle: either take out the garbage, then bring up the building materials, then transport the crop. And, of course, with such intensive use, the wheel periodically breaks down: the tire is punctured, the camera bursts, etc. But, before you go to the market and buy a new wheel, see how quickly you can disassemble the wheel, patch up, or, in case of significant damage, replace the camera and tire, and return everything to its original form.
We want you to see how easy it is to replace a punctured, burst, or simply worn out camera. garden wheelbarrow wheels... Of course, we do this job every day and have taken out several hundred thousand of these wheels before we decided to post this video. The video lasts only a couple of minutes, but by watching it and observing the simple sequence of our actions, you will be saved from unnecessary time expenditures.
First you need to unscrew the spool and completely bleed the air from the wheel to make it easier to remove the tire and tube from the disc.
Then we insert the new camera into the tire, be sure to gently spread it around the entire circumference inside the tire.
Once, on a video about repairing a wheel of a construction wheelbarrow, we received a comment from a man in which he assured us that our camera with a tire was made of soft rubber, and that it was made of oak and it was impossible to do what was shown in the video. So, if you carefully distribute the camera inside the tire before putting all this on the disc, any tire set, of course, if it is matched to the size of the disc, regardless of the softness of the rubber, will definitely fit on the disc.
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Video (click to play). |
If we don’t do it with due diligence, then we will not put the kit on a disc. You do not need to watch how quickly the person in the video does this work, he does it all the time, just pay attention to how carefully the tire set is prepared before putting on the disc.
The next step is to insert the nipple into the hole on the disk and with an effort in a circle we insert the pre-assembled set of tires with a camera inside.
We pump up the wheel and close the nipple with a cap. That's all done!
In the video, we use a compressor to inflate the tire, but almost as quickly it can be inflated with a regular car pump. Everything else is done exclusively by hand and does not require any improvised means.
And in conclusion, once again I would like to draw your attention to the fact that if something does not work out for you, then this is happening not because the rubber is "oak", but because the sequence of actions is violated.
We often have to board the wheels in winter, at minus 15. Knowing the properties of rubber, one can easily guess that at this temperature any rubber will be "oak", but we spend exactly the same amount of time as in this video.
DIY garden wheelbarrow repair. Replacing the bearing in the wheel.
My garden wheelbarrow began to creak terribly while transporting various loads. So I decided to make an audit of the wheel and found that the bearings had fallen apart.
Replacing the bearing in the wheel of a garden wheelbarrow is quite simple.It is necessary to remove the remnants of the old bearing and measure the diameter of the hole where the new bearing will be installed and the diameter of the axle on which the bearing will be put on.
I bought new bearings and installed them in the place of the broken ones.
After all the manipulations, the wheelbarrow stopped creaking and its course became smooth and light.
I needed a wheelbarrow for my dacha needs. Well, take the leaves there, drag a couple of cubes of sand from the gate. I bought a cheap enkorovskaya one, because expensive ones too ha did not inspire confidence.
I have not yet begun to operate it, as the constructive jamb of the wheel has already come to light. The shaft barely holds in thin supports, the wheel on the shaft sits with a gap of almost five dozen and travels along the shaft left and right. In the existing bearing, the cage2 moves relative to the cage1, and 3 - relatively2 (well, this is understandable, there are balls, but the backlash is why do you need it.
To begin with, I want to press out the old bearings, pick up new, closed designs (as I understand it, there is 32x15x12). Fuse two journals onto the shaft, place bearings (press or nitrogen) on them. Well, come up with - weld reinforced shaft brackets along its edges. The wheel is made up of spirit halves
, hence the question, press each one from its edge of the shaft, then pull them together, or come up with stops on the shaft (one removable, no arc) so that they do not shift left-right? But then drag the bearing through one journal, and leave it on the other, and plant the wheel assembly. Any ideas?
Shl. I haven’t thought about strengthening the frame yet, I don’t know where its weak points are, the operation will reveal it, and I don’t want to make the wheelbarrow heavier either.
Intuition tells that the game is not worth the candle.
A filthy design, very flimsy. For this reason, it is better to make a wheelbarrow yourself on more solid wheels, which are sold by firms focused on warehouse equipment.
He can take a bar thicker, for example, by 16 for example, leave the middle of the native diameter, for the length of the distance between the bearings, and grind the edges under the existing bearing diameter. In order to assemble this unit and not disassemble it for a long time, take a closer look at the tires from the mokquicks, they have rubber identical to rubber for carts.
By strengthening - there is a kengurin, this is already a plus. The rest depends on the thickness of the trough. If it is thin, then the bottom can bend, and the leading edge can be bent into an arc. It may also be such an opportunity that the edges of the trough are in the horizon, when the trolley is on loading, but it is worth grabbing the handles and the trough bends forward in a healthy way. Concrete is not particularly convenient to transport in such a place, it is liquid, it splashes forward during transportation.
wheels, which are sold by companies focused on warehouse equipment
There the price is probably the same as for the whole car (I took it for 1300r.)
I would do it myself, but it will turn out very heavy, I can only weld a trough from a two, an inconvenient rectangular shape. And I will not take a thin-walled pipe for frame handles anywhere. Last time I took a wheelbarrow from a friend, two wheels from the Carpathians (Riga), a body with a three. handle with pipe. To transport it, hemorrhoids, and to roll it, it comes out heavier than the payload.
He can take a bar thicker, for example, by 16 for example, leave the middle of the native diameter, for the length of the distance between the bearings, and grind the edges under the existing bearing diameter.
But the idea! And the internal widening will not interfere with the bearings, and will not allow moving along the shaft.
With rubber, there is a camera, it seems, does not siphon.
The trough is thin. It's a shame to say six dozen. I also thought to strengthen it, but the electrode cannot even be brought to this thickness.
In my articles, I already wrote that we are constantly pursued by various troubles with wheels from a wheelbarrow. This time, at the end of September, his bearings crumbled, unable to withstand the load.
To buy, once again, a new cart because of only one wheel, I strongly did not want to. Therefore, having removed it for the winter, I began to look for suitable bearings.
There was nothing like that in the shops of the city. Since the car is Chinese, then following the logic and my conclusions, I began to look for something similar in China. And I found it!
On the very first weekend, after receiving them in the mail, I got down to business.
Wheelbarrow wheel with crumbled bearings.
Broken bearing housing.
Semi-dead, but still surviving second bearing.
New bearings previously ordered from China.
New and old bearings (for comparison).
The whole problem with the new bearings was that they were not much thicker than the old ones, and the bushing for the fastening bolt was not bored out enough to make it possible to install them in the disk seats. The power tool was not at hand, and the bushing had to be bored with a rasp and file.
Bush for fastening bolt with bearing remnants.
Fitted new bearing on one side of the wheel.
Bushing installed in one bearing.
It was necessary to bore the bushing,
since it did not allow the second bearing to sit in the seat.
While I was fiddling with the bushing, trying to knock it out of the incomplete bearings in order to squander it, I accidentally punched through the linoleum. For which I “heard” from my wife many “good” words about myself in her silent gaze.
Moral: during construction and repair work, observe safety precautions, and carry out the work in specialized premises!
Bore bushing.
A hole punched in the linoleum is visible from above.
Mounted bearings assembled with bushing.
Complete wheel with fixing bolt.
The stud and bolt protrude slightly.
Their surplus will be cut off when installed on a wheelbarrow.
Conclusion: Chinese cars, under heavy load, last 2-3 seasons. Their weak points are the frame, bowl and wheels. If the frame and bowl can still be selected at the time of purchase, then the wheels are a real "pig in a poke" - the tires are bad, then the bearings. If you plan to work with this tool for a long time, then you must always have a repair on hand. set. In my case, spare rubber is already available from the previous wheelbarrows, and since these bearings fit, I will buy a couple more in reserve.
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It turns out everything is simple. The fact is that there are not so many repair services for this type of tool. Therefore, you will have to solve the problem with the repair of the wheelbarrow yourself. For this, accordingly, you need to know what problems you can face, as well as how to solve these problems, relying only on yourself. Actually, this is what we will talk about in this article.
The wheel burst. According to statistics wheelbarrow for construction and wheelbarrow for garden in the course of their operation, they most often encounter a wheel problem. Here, as a rule, one common problem is highlighted - the chamber bursts or punctures during operation. Of course, in this case, you can try to side the wheel, and then glue the camera with a patch. Yes - the old-fashioned way, but it also has a place to be. However, thanks to the large assortment of selection of this tool, today it is easier to buy a new part than to repair an old one. Accordingly, with regard to the wheel, we note that it is best to buy a new wheel without a camera. The fact is that a tubeless wheel will once and for all save you from the problem of collision with glass and piercing objects.
Another wheel problem occurs most often at the time of overload. The fact is that any wheel on a wheelbarrow has a disc, which is made of metal or plastic. The disc itself is very light and consists of two parts. So, if the wheelbarrow is overloaded, the load on the disk will increase repeatedly, as a result of which the bolts can slip into their own technological hole.If this happened to your car, then you should immediately stop all work, bleed the air from the wheel, disassemble it and put washers with a larger diameter under the bolts. Of course, this is a temporary solution that will save you time to buy a new wheel.
The frame burst. Very often, mainly due to overload, wheelbarrow for construction and wheelbarrow for garden faced with a broken metal frame. In this case, it is best for you, as a home craftsman, to send to the online store in your city and buy a welding inverter. Of course, this approach will not allow your equipment to remain collapsible as it was with bolted connections. However, the use of a welded joint will make the wheelbarrow structure more rigid and, as a result, more durable.
The wheel of the construction wheelbarrow is rubbing against the supporting frame. We have already said that a construction wheelbarrow and a garden wheelbarrow should not be overloaded during operation. However, its users are very often neglected. Actually, it is precisely because of overload that the wheel on the wheelbarrow begins to rub. The reason for this can be the distortion of the axial part, as well as complete or partial destruction of the bearing system. So, in the first breakdown, it is very often necessary to change the bearing axial parts. In the second, the wheel changes as a whole.
The body has become highly mobile. As a rule, a construction wheelbarrow and a garden wheelbarrow under the influence of a load can lose their strength and become unbalanced. However, this problem is even simpler and can be solved with a simple diagnosis and inspection of your instrument. So, in the process of diagnostics, it is very important for you to determine which of the bots on the car body is weakened. So, as soon as you find it, just tighten the necessary nuts and that's it, your car will be back in service at the proper level of quality.
As you can see wheelbarrow for construction and wheelbarrow for garden have not so many problems, but even those that do exist are easily solved by replacing something or repairing with improvised means.
Whatever one may say, the wheel is the most vulnerable spot on a wheelbarrow. At the same time, it is often destroyed not due to overload, but becomes an object of impact on it with piercing objects. This is the case, therefore, in order to avoid this problem, we have to change the wheel to a new one, since repairing the old one is not always possible. So, when replacing a wheel with a new one, you need to choose a certain type of wheel from the following selection range:
Pneumatic wheel. This type of wheel is considered the simplest and most common, since it is included in almost all wheelbarrows, both low and high price ranges. The basis of such a wheel is the air that enters a special chamber under the action of a pump. It is believed that the pressure in the chamber should be no less than 2 atmospheres. Note that such a wheel is relatively inexpensive, but it can also cost half the total cost of a wheelbarrow construction and garden modification.
Cast wheel. This type of wheel also has such a name - tubeless. They tend to be significantly more expensive and are only available with a metal disc on the market. The advantages of such a wheel include durability and ease of use. Indeed, the wheel does not need to be pumped, which means that there is no need to waste time on maintaining it. Note that many garden wheelbarrows of St. Petersburg are equipped with such a wheel, which are presented on the domestic market with a large assortment of choices. Note that garden wheelbarrows SPb on a tubeless wheel have a long service life because there is no chamber with air inside. Therefore, such garden wheelbarrows cannot be punctured or cut with a sharp object. Note that the tubeless tire itself is very durable, which significantly reduces the wear of the wheelbarrow during operation.
Summing up this article, we note that everything that wheelbarrows, construction and gardening, in general, are very strong and durable. All these nuances and problems are just isolated flaws that, with a very high probability, will not affect you. However, you must be prepared for anything so that, if necessary, provide first aid to your construction or garden wheelbarrow.
For two years of operation, the wheel bearings almost crumbled, in addition, the tire cracked and torn and the camera punctured.
Until the new wheels were brought in, I decided to modernize and strengthen my garden cart a little.
I connected the handles with an arc almost immediately after the purchase, so it is much more convenient to control the wheelbarrow, moreover, you can do it with one hand.
I also wanted to move the wheels closer to the middle of the body for a long time. I don't understand at all those who designed such carts. Most likely, they took as a basis the design of the wheelbarrow, which was used in the construction of the Belomorkanal. The wheels of these wheelbarrows (one or two) are located at the front, so a significant part of the weight is on the hands. Despite this, nowadays 99 percent of such products have wheels displaced forward. This applies to both garden and construction wheelbarrows, which, in my opinion, are not much different from each other.
In short, I decided to move the wheels closer to the center of gravity. This will slightly increase the distance between the wheels, but the width dimension will remain the same. In addition, increasing the distance between the wheels will increase the overall stability of the wheelbarrow.
All parts were made from scrap metal lying around in different corners, fitted with a grinder and emery.
First of all, I took two steel plates of suitable sizes with a thickness of 3-4 mm, drilled in them two holes dia. 10mm and installed between the body of the body and the plastic pad in the rear wall of the wheelbarrow. The length of the plates should be such that they protrude slightly above the bottom of the trough.
I threw out a thin can in the front, which apparently served to increase the rigidity of the body.
In its place, I installed a steel strip of suitable dimensions. For this purpose, I came across a spring, someone and once straightened.
I adjusted two more plates in size and welded them on.
Two vertical posts - pipe sections with a diameter of about 32mm. Their length is about half the diameter of the wheel, it is selected empirically.
The axis should be 20 mm in diameter, I didn't find one, set it to 18 mm, then I'll think of something.
It is necessary to check that the wheels spin freely, the tires do not touch the body. If necessary, several washers or a piece of pipe can be put on the axle. The bottom of the body should have a backward slope, then, when moving, the arcs will not touch the slightest obstacles or irregularities in the soil, as it was in the factory version.
Then I forgot to take a photo, but everything is clear anyway. In place of the former axis, I attached a piece of pipe, adjusted and welded on pieces of reinforcement dia. 16 mm. Shown below by arrows.
I did all the actions without removing the body, so it is quite simple to make all the strapping.
Now you can remove the trough and boil in inaccessible places.
At the same time, paint.
Installed new, more powerful wheels, size 4.80 / 4.00-8. Relatives were 3.25 / 3.00-8.
The bearings were completely without lubrication. In order to somehow prolong their life, he lubricated them with a syringe with MS-1000 grease. On the occasion, I took four more bearings in stock.
In conclusion, he carried out sea trials. 
The other day I decided to buy a tubeless wheel for my garden wheelbarrow, because I was already tortured with pneumatic (inflatable chambers) wheels, which were very often punctured in our garden.
I must say that in ancient times, on the site of our site there were some workshops, therefore, until now, fragments of bricks continue to crawl out of the ground, as well as various pieces of iron, including old, tetrahedral forged nails and staples for joining logs.And no matter how much we collected them and dug up the earth, new ones appear every year.
Therefore, last weekend I bought this tubeless wheel for a wheelbarrow.
In all respects, it seemed to be exactly the same as my old wheel. However, when I installed it on the axle of the wheelbarrow, it turned out that the hub of this wheel is significantly shorter than that of my old one.
Moreover, after the measurements, it turned out that his hub is exactly 20 mm shorter.
It was too late to change the wheel, since it was already evening, and the next day a new work week began.
As a result, I decided to pick up some washers or even find a suitable steel tube and cut out two rings, 10 mm wide, to use them as washers.
And then it turned out that as such washers, two ordinary M12 nuts are ideal.
Firstly, they are freely put on a bolt with a diameter of 10 mm, which serves as an axis for me, and secondly, the width of one nut is almost 10 mm.
As a result, on each side of the hub, I installed an M12 nut on the axle.
And it turned out that the wheel sits tightly and does not dangle at all.
And the car with the new wheel runs perfectly.
In general, in such a simple way, I managed to fix the situation.
Therefore, I can advise summer residents and gardeners who find themselves in a similar situation to take advantage of my experience.
And best of all, when choosing a new wheel for your car, do not be too lazy to find out or measure all the necessary parameters of the wheel. These are the outer diameter of the wheel, the diameter of the disc (important for pneumatic wheels in order to subsequently replace the tube or tire), the width of the tire, the diameter of the wheel axle, as well as the inner diameter of the hub bearings, and, of course, the width of the hub.
Well, that's all for me! Happy summer season to everyone!
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In my articles, I already wrote that we are constantly pursued by various troubles with wheels from a wheelbarrow. This time, at the end of September, his bearings crumbled, unable to withstand the load.
To buy, once again, a new cart because of only one wheel, I strongly did not want to. Therefore, having removed it for the winter, I began to look for suitable bearings.
There was nothing like that in the shops of the city. Since the car is Chinese, then following the logic and my conclusions, I began to look for something similar in China. And I found it!
On the very first weekend, after receiving them in the mail, I got down to business.
Wheelbarrow wheel with crumbled bearings.
Broken bearing housing.
Semi-dead, but still surviving second bearing.
New bearings previously ordered from China.
New and old bearings (for comparison).
The whole problem with the new bearings was that they were not much thicker than the old ones, and the bushing for the fastening bolt was not bored out enough to make it possible to install them in the disk seats. The power tool was not at hand, and the bushing had to be bored with a rasp and file.
Bush for fastening bolt with bearing remnants.
Fitted new bearing on one side of the wheel.
Bushing installed in one bearing.
It was necessary to bore the bushing,
since it did not allow the second bearing to sit in the seat.
While I was fiddling with the bushing, trying to knock it out of the incomplete bearings in order to squander it, I accidentally punched through the linoleum. For which I “heard” from my wife many “good” words about myself in her silent gaze.
Moral: during construction and repair work, observe safety precautions, and carry out the work in specialized premises!
Bore bushing.
A hole punched in the linoleum is visible from above.
Mounted bearings assembled with bushing.
Complete wheel with fixing bolt.
The stud and bolt protrude slightly.
Their surplus will be cut off when installed on a wheelbarrow.
Conclusion: Chinese cars, under heavy load, last 2-3 seasons. Their weak points are the frame, bowl and wheels.If the frame and bowl can still be selected at the time of purchase, then the wheels are a real "pig in a poke" - the tires are bad, then the bearings. If you plan to work with this tool for a long time, then you must always have a repair on hand. set. In my case, spare rubber is already available from the previous wheelbarrows, and since these bearings fit, I will buy a couple more in reserve.
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