DIY wheel arch repair

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Let's talk about replacing the rear arches of the car. Rear arches on some car models are a weak point, easily corroded. There are options when you can "cure" rust without changing the arches, but, as a rule, the owners of cars pull until the last, when drastic measures are needed. The need to replace the rear arches arises, as a rule, due to their through corrosion. In such cases, all that remains is to cut off all the rusty metal and weld in its place a new, non-rusty segment. How to do this, and what subtleties you need to take into account. Let's take a look at everything in detail.

First, we need to define the boundaries of the corroded area. To do this, you need to clean off the old paintwork in a place where rust is visible. An autopsy, as they say, will show what's under the paint. It is necessary to clean it, with a margin retreating from the zone with corrosion to the zone with normal metal. An autopsy usually reveals that there is much more rust than meets the eye.

Next, we need to cut off all the corroded metal. We use the "grinder", we cut everything down to pure metal. After the rusty segment has been cut off, the reverse side of the remaining intact metal should be checked as far as possible. Why do we need this? It so happens that the front part of the part does not contain corrosion, but on the reverse side everything is much sadder. Usually you just have to enlarge the cut area a little in order to weld the repair segment to the good metal on both sides.

Cut out segment of the rear wing Arch self-made from sheet metal

Further to us you need to take a repair insert somewhere for welding and restoring the arch. Here you can choose the following options:

1. Take the desired segment from the donor's rear wing.
2. Take the required part from the new repair panel for the rear wing (if there is one on sale for the car model being repaired).
3. Cut the desired segment from sheet metal (usually from an unnecessary body panel). It all depends on what shape you need the segment. If a large part of the arch with complex shapes, edging was cut, then of course it is better to take and cut out a similar part from the donor's wing. Again, it depends on the cost of the rear wing of a particular car. Despite the complexity of the shapes, it is also possible to bend the desired segment from, for example, an unnecessary hood. If a complex shape does not work out, then you can make a segment of several simpler ones by welding them together.
4. Another option is to take the desired segment from a new or used front wing. In most car models, the front and rear fenders are similar in shape. The front wing is usually cheaper and easier to find than the rear wing. Thus, we take the desired “piece” from the front wing and adjust it to the rear one.

Welding a homemade arch New renovation arch The front fender is similar in shape to the arch of the rear fender.

How do I cut a sheet metal patch to the desired shape?

You can apply this method. Take a cardboard, lean it against the cut area and the borders of the cut area will be printed on it.Now you can cut a stamp out of cardboard along these boundaries, and use this stamp to cut out the necessary patch from metal. It is better to slightly increase the borders on the metal being cut out, since it will need to be welded with an overlap.

Welding the repair insert

The next step is to weld the repair insert. When welding, you must not overheat the metal. It is better to weld with dots, starting from one end of the patch, then weld with a dot on the other side and at intervals, then decrease the interval. The point is that the metal doesn't lead too much.

After welding, you need to clean the seam from oxides and grind the weld seam.

Weld seam protection

Next, you need to protect the seam from corrosion. One option is an epoxy anti-corrosive primer. After the soil has completely dried, you need to grind it without rubbing it to the metal, then you can apply a putty.

The back of the weld is also important to protect. For this, you can use anticorrosive primers in aerosol cans. The most important thing is to get to the back side. If there is no access, then you can use a can with a long tube and a nozzle on it. One of these variants is "Movil". Very comfortable design. You can crawl into a hidden cavity by inserting a tube into a small hole. Movil is not the best option for protecting against corrosion, but the nozzle tube can be adapted to any other protection in an aerosol can.

Then you can proceed to the final removal of the putty, priming with acrylic primer, preparation for painting and the actual painting.

The wheel arches of the vehicle are hazardous. This is due to the fact that they are constantly influenced by atmospheric factors: rain, snow, moisture, chemically active components that are often present on the track. As well as crushed stone and small stones flying from under the wheels of cars. V as a result, foci of corrosion appear, which lead to the destruction of this part of the car... The rear arches of the car, consisting of the inner part and the outer wing, are especially affected in this regard.

If we are talking about minor defects, cosmetic repairs can be dispensed with. If we are dealing with very pronounced foci of corrosion, serious repairs or even replacement of the wheel arches of a car will be required.... To do this, you can ask for help at a car service station or do all the work yourself.

Replacing the rear arch and fender of the car

Self-repair of the rear arches of the car can be performed by 2 methods:

The first method is used when the wing is not rotten to holes, and we are able to get a solid surface, removing all the rust. If the destruction led to the formation of holes, it is obvious that filling cannot be dispensed with - you will have to get the welding machine out of the cabinet.

So, when it comes to minor damage, the putty method is used. Step by step it looks like this:

1. It is necessary to thoroughly wash and dry the car.
2. Remove all rust from bare metal from damaged areas and sand thoroughly.
3. Treat the areas with reactive primer and allow the surface to dry.

Car rear arch putty

Put acrylic filler on top of the reactive layer - in no case should putty be applied to acidic soil.

After the acrylic has dried, apply the putty and wait for it to dry.

Thoroughly sand the dried filler with a gradual reduction in grain on the abrasive. Thus - to level the surface, preparing it for painting.

Paint those parts of the car that were being repaired.

If the surface is so corroded that it is not possible to do with putty, you will need welding. Obviously, to carry out work of such a plan with your own hands, you must have a welding machine and have the appropriate skills in handling it.... So, the repair by welding is as follows:

• Diligently wash and dry the car.
• Using a grinder, we cut off all the affected areas of the wheel arches.
• Align and clean the edges (for making patches it is good to get arches that were in use and are no longer used).
• We cut out the appropriate patches and bring them to the shape we need to get the correct wing configuration.

Rear arch repair by welding

We prepare such patches for the inner and outer parts of the arch.

We spot weld the inner patch first, then the outer patch. It should be recessed compared to the rest of the surface.

We carefully grind the welded seams.

Putting out the geometry.

Grind the putty on top.

Apply a layer of acrylic primer.

We paint the repaired car site.

If the surface of the wheel arches of a car is hopelessly corroded by rust and cannot be repaired, you will need a replacement - it will not be difficult to perform this operation on your own.

Let's consider in stages how the wheel arches of a car are replaced with our own hands:

We order the production of a new arch from any turner. As a material, you can choose some light alloy like aluminum.

Do-it-yourself car arch replacement

We use a jack to raise the car from the side where we plan to work.

We remove the wheel so that there is no interference.

Disconnect the arch from the suspension, floor, bulkhead and trunk.

We clean the surface from a layer of paint to pure metal.

We try on a new product and make a mark by which we will cut off the one that requires replacement.

After cutting, we install a new product, securing it by welding. We start to cook in the center, then move on to the edges. It is important to pay attention to the anchorage in the sill area where the main loads will occur.

We grind the welding seams and apply a special primer.

After priming with a putty, we level all surfaces.

We grind the filler and apply acrylic primer.

At the end, we paint the installed product.

On this we can consider the work completed if you have the skills to handle the welding machine.... It will not give you much difficulty.

The arch is welded over the wing with an overlap

The wheel arches of a car are strongly influenced by a whole range of negative factors: precipitation, moisture, chemically active reagents, dirt and small stones. As a result, there is a tendency to premature corrosion and failure.

The situation can be corrected by various types of repairs, as well as by replacing the arches if the repair is no longer possible. To cope on your own, you will need certain skills in using a grinder, a welding machine, a grinder and a spray gun.... In this case, you can easily cope with the task and fix the problem.

Before working with the welding machine, you need to disconnect the power supply, that is, the battery. The problem we have is this, we need to heal the arch covered with corrosion.

First of all, we clean everything with an emery machine and cut out the damaged area with a grinder.

After the damaged area has been cut out, we treat everything with acid so that there is no more corrosion. We make blanks, cut out patches. Made of food grade stainless steel 0.8 thickness.

We scald from the inside and cover with baxitic soil. Carefully, even under the seams.

If it is not convenient for you or it is difficult for you to make a patch in diameter, you can use cardboard for this. Apply and press down around the perimeter of the cutout. You will have a trace, cut and apply to the metal to cut a patch according to your cardboard layout.
For in-depth processing, you also need a Movil, a hose with a spray nozzle in all directions.

After all the treatments, take the first patch and insert its hole where the cut was. In order to be able to safely control the patch, it is necessary to weld on an unnecessary screwdriver or a metal rod.

Due to the fact that you weld it to the patch, it will give you the dignity not only to regulate it, but also to press it tightly to the metal. And so we weld on all the patches.

Then it is necessary to clean everything up so that the plane is even and when painting does not stick out. We clean with a grinder and then go through with a special iron brush for a grinder.

We clean everything inside the seams with a brush so that there are no deposits and subsequently does not oxidize and does not become covered with rust. And to be sure, we go through the circus again.
Next, you need to take 120 sandpaper and apply risks. After applying the marks, it is necessary to degrease everything.

After it dries, cover with baxitic primer. As the primer dries well, reapply the risks with 120 sandpaper. Then we apply a thick layer of putty.

Apply the putty tightly under the seam, and tightly without air. After sanding with a die, so that it is exactly without pits.

Degrease again before applying with the universal filler.

We apply a universal putty and on the applied risks from 120 sandpaper and on the remaining unfinished work, pores, align the edging.

We are waiting for the putty to dry and proceed to sanding. We will sand 240 with sandpaper. At the end, if pores remain, we re-pass it with putty and sand it.

Then we apply several layers of primer, let it dry for 5 minutes between the layers.

The end we will have is painting, paint over by color, and your arch is ready.

Many Premasya owners and others are familiar with this problem. Like any disease, it is easier and cheaper to treat it at the initial stage, avoiding the appearance of through holes. Otherwise, a donor organ transplant in the form of a wing patch will be required. Let's assume that everything is not so bad with us and it looks something like this:

True, this is a 2005 Corolla. - European, but the essence is the same. Let's see what can be done, if there is a desire, a warm room and a compressor with a spray gun, but there is no money or it's a pity))). If anyone is not interested in the secrets of body repair, you can go straight to the end, where you will find out how you can protect the arch from corrosion.
So, we take a drill with a wire disk and clean off the swollen paint, carefully look so that there is no rust left under the paint, otherwise these places will then rise:

You can then clean especially rusty places with a grinder, but be careful - the metal is weakened and it is easy to make a hole. We clean the transition of paint to metal with a sandpaper, so that there is no sharp difference in height. The transition is processed correctly if the layers of primer and paint are consistently visible:

To speed up the process, you can first take a coarser skin - grain 80, then go to 120 and finish 240, going over the area with each subsequent abrasive a little further than the previous one. At the same time, keep in mind that the risk of a rougher 220 will not close with soil, so do not climb far to it. The rest of the surface is matted with 600 sandpaper. It is more convenient to work with water with a fine sandpaper, so that the abrasive does not clog, so after that it is necessary to dry thoroughly with prof. a hairdryer, especially caverns from corrosion, can be heated up to 60-80g, the paint is not afraid of this. We wipe the surface with a napkin with a degreaser and putty. The main mistake of beginners when puttingtying is that they smear it with a thick layer in the hope of then cutting off the excess with a sandpaper. It will be correct to apply 3-4 layers in succession, gradually approaching the shape of the surface, it should look something like this:

On top of the ground, apply a thin layer of a developing layer of any dark paint, conveniently from a spray can. The dried soil is rubbed with 600-800 sandpaper with water, the developing layer will show if there are defects.The rest of the part is matted with water, sandpaper 1000 and then Scotchbrite. The result is a smooth matte surface:

We paste over, degrease, wipe with a sticky cloth from dust and can be painted.
A few words about paints. I do not advise you to consider cans in principle. And not only because the color does not match, such enamel does not protect the lower layers from moisture poorly. Therefore, it is better to take paint on the selection of car enamels. I will reveal one of the most secret secrets: no colorist can match a color 100%. It is believed in narrow circles that 70-80% of color matching depends on the colorist, the rest depends on the art of the painter. He will make a test paint, if necessary, paint the paint. A good painter will never paint end-to-end parts, a transition is made to the old paint, so often instead of one part, you have to paint two or even three. In this case, I had to paint the entire wing, make the transition to the door and bumper:

As a result, there will be no discoloration even under artificial lighting. Have you met, probably, cars that look normal during the day, and under a lamp in the evening, as if parts from different cars?

Corrosion of the arch begins with damage to the edge by small stones flying from the wheel. So that after the first winter the rust does not climb again, it is necessary to protect this place. We buy elastic bands to protect the lower edge of the doors for VAZ-08. Cutting off the excess:

We coat the edge of the wing with anticorrosive well on both sides and put an elastic band on it, once again we coat it from the inside of the wing so that the water does not get under the elastic band. Outside, we remove the excess with gasoline, you get this beauty:

What materials to use? I will say this, there are no frankly bad materials now, those that are more expensive allow reducing the repair time, it is more convenient to work with them, and the quality mainly depends on the efforts and skills. A typical representative of budget materials is NOVOL. Provided the technology is followed, it provides quite sufficient quality:

Here is such a repair, nothing too complicated, go for it!

The question of how to process the wheel arches of a car sounds no less relevant than, for example, the problem of choosing the car itself. It is no secret that some cars are subjected to minimized anti-corrosion treatment of the body during factory assembly.

What to say about used cars. After all, it is not known for certain how prudent the former owner was? And who wants the purchased car to rot in several seasons? Therefore, it is necessary to carry out additional processing, both of the entire body and the wheel arches in particular, as the place most susceptible to mechanical deformations and other incidents associated with damage to the body coating.

How to process the wheel arches of a car and how to do this work correctly? There are several ways how you can do it yourself. Let's start with the most important.

Any metal part may sooner or later start to rust. Moreover, the wheel arches, which take on mechanical damage from small stones and sand while driving. And in winter it contributes to deterioration and failure of coatings - a mixture that is sprinkled on our roads in slippery times. Therefore, anti-gravel treatment of the wheel arches of the car is one of the most optimal ways out of the situation.

Of course, you can contact the service for a solution. But you can try to do a similar procedure yourself, saving a certain amount of money. And besides, you will be as sure as possible that everything was done according to the rules, because you yourself processed the details.

Removing the wheel... We raise the car; for greater convenience, you need to tilt it a little more to one side. If there is no lift, use jacks and supports. But do so as to make it as convenient as possible to get to the processing sites.

Wheel arches can be dirty. Therefore, under the pressure of water, we wash off the growths and carefully (you can use a brush) to clean the strata.

When dry, we inspect the interior coatings for all sorts of flaws and rust. We treat the foci with a rust converter. We clean the rust, if any, with a metal brush attachment put on an electric drill (you can do it manually, but it will take much more time and effort). Finally, we grind these places with a nozzle with sandpaper using the same drill. Attention! When carrying out work, use protective goggles to protect your eyes from dust and pieces of rust flying in different directions.

We again process the foci with a rust converter. Wait a little and wash off with plenty of water. After that, we dry the wheel arches thoroughly (for this purpose, you can use a fan heater or hairdryer).

Then coat the surfaces with a nitro solvent... And then - with masking tape we glue those surfaces on which anti-gravel should not get. We wrap the suspension with polyethylene for the same reasons.

We apply the primer in several layers, letting each of them dry. You can take it in a bottle, or you can take it from a can - then we work with a wide brush.

Apply mastic to primed surfaces (also in several layers, letting each layer dry). We check that the anti-gravel cover covers all the required planes. After finishing work, dry thoroughly. We remove the plastic protection and tape. Put the wheel back and repeat the procedure on the other side of the car.

Problems with improving noise insulation exist, probably, in many cars. But if on flat surfaces usually sheet sound-absorbing material is used for these purposes, then here, on the wheel arches, it can no longer be used effectively to the full. How to process the wheel arches of a car? Liquid noise insulation of these spare parts is recommended for use.

What does it give? It has been noticed that part of the road noise penetrates into the car precisely through the unprotected wheel arches, making it difficult for sound gourmets to listen to high-quality audio systems. Therefore, it is recommended to use liquid insulation in order to reduce the quantity and quality of noise.

There are two types of it: applied to a primer and one that is applied directly to the cleaned surface.

Repair of rusty car arches is a specialty of the professional network of car body stations. Trust us with your vehicle and it will leave us without the slightest signs of corrosion. Repairing rusty arches is inexpensive and you will love the result.

1. Removing rust up to 5 cm (from 985 rubles) + local painting (from 3.595 rubles)
2. Remove rust up to 10 cm (from 1.475 rubles) + painting with a transition (from 4.865 rubles)
3. Repair of rust over 11 cm (from 2.450 rubles) + painting of the part (from 5.780 rubles)

Repair of rusty fender arches on Mazda. What to do if the rear fenders are rusty? It is very expensive to change them. Professional repaired 2 corroded rear fenders

During operation, car arches are constantly exposed to precipitation, dust, dirt, water, crushed stone, which leads to their corrosion and subsequent destruction. This is especially true for the rear wheel arch. It is made up of two planes connected by welding - the outer wing and the arch above the wheel, from where corrosion occurs. Minor damages can be repaired in a timely manner. If they are deep enough and extensive enough, you will need to make a complete replacement of the arch.

This process does not require any special training. He is within the power of any experienced driver who knows the device of the car. At the same time, when replacing an arch on your own, you must adhere to a certain technology. In addition, in order to properly replace the wheel arch, it is necessary to have the appropriate tools, equipment and materials. These include:

• Arch repair kit;
• Electric arc welding semiautomatic device;
• Equipment for cleaning and grinding seams;
• Drill with a drill for metal;
• Pneumatic hammer and chisel set;
• Locksmith's hammer;
• Finely ground hand chisel;
• Pliers and wire cutters;
• Screwdriver;
• Knife, ruler and gloves;
• Glasses;
• Metal sheet;
• Primer, paint;
• Anti-corrosion coating agent.

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First of all, a visual assessment of the degree of metal corrosion by corrosion is made. The necessary measurements are made. Depending on the level of damage, the arches are replaced partially or completely. Everything will depend on how worn out. With the smallest damage, you can do with covering the inside of the arch with a protective anti-corrosion agent.

1. Disconnect the wheel arch from the trunk floor, bulkhead frame and suspension spring support using a drill, pneumatic and metal hammers, chisels.
2. Define and mark the damage area.
3. Remove damaged metal according to the markings. This should be done with protective gloves and goggles.
4. Cut an identical workpiece out of sheet metal.
5. Prepare the surfaces for welding, remove the remaining pieces of metal from the ends with pliers or pliers, set the minimum gap between the parts.