DIY Astra column repair

Heating systems for country and country houses. Boilers, gas water heaters, water heaters - Repair, service, operation. Recommendations for assembly and installation.

Question: The igniter on the Astra gas column does not ignite. What could be connected with?

Answer: Remove the igniter tube and clean it. It may be necessary to change the rubber gasket.

Question: The gas water heater VPG-18 Astra does not ignite, since there is no pressure in the hot water tap, while the pressure in the cold water tap is excellent. What could be the reason?

Answer: The reasons may be different: the heat exchanger is clogged with scale, the column filter is clogged, the blockage in the hot water pipe or in the tap itself, etc. You can try this: disconnect the outlet pipeline from the column and look at the water pressure directly at the outlet of the column: if good, it means that something is clogged after the column, if it is bad, then there is a problem with the column.

Question: Astra water heater has been installed. When the water is opened, the main burner does not light up or lights up, but burns very weakly and the flame is not regulated. There is a suspicion that it is time to change the membrane, but maybe the problem is something else?

Answer: Yes, most likely a membrane. It is not shaped, you can cut it yourself from sheet rubber up to 1 mm.

Question: Help me find the reason, the Astra 8910 02 gas water heater, when the hot water is on, the column goes out from time to time, I cleaned the thermocouple to shine, the membrane is in good condition, but just in case I replaced it with a new one, the water pressure is less than that of cold water, for which still pay attention?

Answer: Maybe the traction is bad, or the traction sensor is knocking. If there is no draft sensor, then there is a tube bent with a hook at the top of the water heater and going to the igniter. Through this tube, the air necessary for combustion is supplied to the igniter. If the draft is disturbed (and, accordingly, the removal of smoke), then not air will go through the tube, but smoke, and the igniter will go out, the thermocouple will cool down and the column will turn off.

So even without a draft sensor (it is triggered by an increase in temperature at the top of the column), but with such a system, the column reacts to a deterioration / lack of thrust. The pilot flame must hit the thermocouple. If for some reason this does not happen, then due to insufficient heating of the thermocouple, it gives less current and the solenoid valve shuts off the gas supply to the burner.

Question: Astra gas water heater, model 8910, 1.5 years old. From the very beginning of the connection, when gas is added as the temperature of hot water rises (from warm to noticeably hot), when the gas supply control knob is turned to the left, when it is set against the right small red flame icon on the front cover of the column, the column begins to “sing” and crackle. The pressure of the water, cold and hot at the outlet, is satisfactory, but the temperature of the water (for example, when filling into the bath) is small. I'm afraid to increase the gas supply. With a scanty turn of the knob still to the left, it continues to “sing” and crack even harder. It seems to me that this is not safe. Is it possible to somehow solve this issue?

Answer: if it's like a kettle before boiling, then it's scale. It needs to be cleaned and rinsed.

Question: Who removed the heat exchanger from the Astra VPG-18 gas column? Share your experience, I just can't unscrew it, I pull the gas wrench with all my might, but it doesn't give in.

Answer: The inlet and outlet of the heat exchanger are screwed on with union nuts with fittings. It can be unscrewed with ordinary keys, but there should be two of them: the fitting is held with one key, and the nut is unscrewed with the second key (you can vice versa: hold the nut and unscrew the fitting).If you use a gas wrench with force, the nut may crack. There are difficult cases when water seeps out in this compound and over time the compound turns sour. Then it is better to remove the column, put it on the floor or on the table and unscrew it like that.

Question: Tell me, the Astra VPG-18 gas water heater has stopped lighting up. I disassembled the frog, changed the stock with the mushroom and the membrane. After that, the column lights up only at maximum pressure and, accordingly, hardly heats up. What can be done? there is an old frog without a disk.

Answer: If the membrane is black, so it will be. If there is a 22-wrench plug on the front of the water block, unscrew. There is a filter installed - remove. The adjusting needle of the pressure regulator is screwed into the plug, try unscrewing it. It will break and then it will not be a pity to buy a new regulator with a disc, you can adjust the pressure without disassembling. With the plug turned out, clean the hole in the block with a D2 spoke.

Question: A year and a half ago, we purchased and installed an Astra water heater (gas water heater). They called the gas workers, who looked at the water pressure and advised us to buy this model. After some time, the pressure of hot water in the bathroom decreased (private house, kitchen and bathroom nearby). The kitchen has remained the same. In the kitchen, the column turned on immediately, and in the bathroom only if water was flowing in the kitchen. Today my pipes were frozen, for some time there was no water. Now the water pressure is the same as it was. But the column won't turn on. Even if I turn on hot water, both in the bathroom and in the kitchen. Tell me what this can be connected with?

Answer: There is one outlet of hot water from the column. If the pressure of hot water in the kitchen was good, but in the bathroom it was bad, then the problem was not in the column, but in the pipe or mixer in the bathroom. Try to adjust the water flow with the appropriate adjusting screw. This is such a round piece in front of the water part (frog).

Question: The Astra VPG-18 gas water heater does not ignite at all, it goes out. We think that the membrane has burst, or there is no pressure (just before the pressure from the faucet in the kitchen was greater, now it is much weaker, but it still seems to be sufficient for the column to turn on). Let's watch it can get clogged. The fact is that the pressure of cold and hot water from the tap is very different (hot goes much weaker). The igniter seems to be good, does not bother, almost inaudible, it burns constantly. What can be done?

Answer: Try to disconnect the water outlet from the column and light it. If it lights up, then your pipes are clogged, if not, then either the membrane is torn, or the filter mesh is clogged. Unscrew the regulator wheel on the front of the water block, there is a nut for 8, under it is a nut for 22. Unscrew it and take out the filter mesh. I have had the same column for 5 years now. The igniter was noisy. I took the spring from an automatic ballpoint pen and inserted it into the pilot outlet. There, the undercut just fits. It is located under the guiding flame petal. You don't need to disassemble anything. It turned out to be a divider. Now the igniter is not audible at all.

Question: A gas water heater Astra 8910 is installed in the house. Once again, having dismantled the heat exchanger and filled it with an anti-scale solution, I decided to check where I have strong pressure losses. What we have: water pressure 1.6 atm (3rd floor + water tower), 12.5 liters per minute from a cold tap. It is clear that the column reduces the water pressure. After descaling, the water flow is improved. So, the cold water pressure is good - 12.5 liters per minute.

I connect the flexible inlet and outlet connections of their column with a nipple - the pressure is almost the same. I put a flushed heat exchanger. The pressure has decreased quite a bit. Thus, I found that the lion's share of the head loss occurs in the water block. 3.5 liters per minute comes out of the hot tap! Cold 12.5 and hot 3.5! The water block has a HOR-HOL regulator. Stands in the COL position, providing maximum water passage through the column.Maybe this regulator inside broke down in the HOP position, and the column slows down the flow as much as possible because of this. How can I check this?

Answer: There is nothing to break there. Most likely the filter standing there (a mesh in the form of a tube) is clogged. It is necessary to unscrew the nut, which is hot-cold under the adjusting handwheel, and look. I remember a similar case. And the heat exchanger was washed, and the water part was disassembled, and what they did not do, but there is still not enough water at the outlet. It turned out that on the cold water pipe at the connection in front of the column, those who put it squeezed the gasket, and initially little water entered the column.

Question: I have an Astra VPG-21 water heater. It worked well for 5 years, but a malfunction appeared. Symptoms: The wick goes out during ignition when you release the handle. I squeeze the left handle - gas is supplied to the wick. I turn it counterclockwise - the piezo is triggered, the wick lights up, I stand waiting for the thermocouple to warm up. After waiting as many minutes as I want, let go of the handle - the wick goes out, but it should continue to burn.

The last week, it often turned out that the column was turned off, for whatever reason the wick went out, I did not have time to figure it out completely. I often had to go and light it. And then it turned out that sometimes it is quite difficult to ignite it, that is, it was necessary to heat the thermocouple for almost 2 minutes. And then she didn't want to fire up at all. A few hours later, it went on fire from the first time in about 30 seconds. But then it went out again and did not ignite for a day. Then it lit one last time and I still have not been able to do it again. Tell me how to identify and eliminate the malfunction?

Answer: It is necessary to check: if the tip of the thermocouple is not soaked, if necessary, gently clean it with fine sandpaper; is the thermocouple well washed by the igniter flame, if necessary, clean the igniter nozzle (it is often called a jet) with a very thin wire; there is a thin tube from the thermocouple at the solenoid valve (EMC), where it enters the EMC, unscrew the nut, pull out this tube and
use a zero-key (or a matchbox striker) to clean the contact, insert the tube into the solenoid valve and tighten the nut without excessive force. Is there a draft / overheating sensor in the column?

If there is, then clean the contacts on it. If all this does not help, then most likely you need to change the thermocouple. Problems when turning on / off the column are possible due to the fact that it is time to replace the membrane in the water part (the water part is also called a frog). A draft sensor with a solenoid valve constitutes a series circuit in which the current is supplied by a heated thermocouple, if there is a bad contact, the water heater will not turn on. The traction sensor is triggered by overheating - the contact in it opens from the heat, the current disappears in the circuit, and in the EMC the electromagnet “releases” the valve, which shuts off the gas. It is simple to check the serviceability / malfunction of the draft sensor: it is enough to short-circuit it, if after that the column starts working, then it is faulty.

Question: The Astra 8910-02 gas column always lights up for a very long time, you have to press the button for about 30 seconds to ignite the igniter and it has always been like this, even from the moment the column was installed. And the second question, recently, already during the supply of hot water, everything began to go out all the time, both the burner and the igniter, after this attenuation - it is even more difficult to ignite the igniter, you need to press the button much longer to ignite. The column is about 5 years old.

Answer: Perhaps it will help. In columns of this type (that Neva, that Astra) - the principle of action is absolutely the same.

Question: Gas water heater Astra VPG 21-2. Cracks violently when water is supplied, and it does not matter if it burns or not, what is the reason?

Answer: You probably have a recirculation pump in your water supply system. (In the entire system). If this is the case, then it is better to connect the home system to the general water supply with a soft or plastic connection.

Question: Tell me: they lit a gas water heater Astra 8910, turned on hot water, the column itself then goes out, then ignites. I was told that this is either a membrane or the stock does not move well. I opened the block, lubricated the stem with graphite grease, changed the membrane upside down. She worked for several days. Then the same thing. I bought a new bronze block on top with a spring mount, the old one was not like that, the store said that it should be so. The stem does not move at all. Okay, put it on, and now even the wick won't light. What can be done?

Answer: In the old block, replace the membrane (it stretched out) and everything will be fine. The wick does not light up because you did something a little tricky. Should light up, at least when the button is pressed. The fastener with a spring serves to replace / stuff the stuffing box packing of the stem, before there was a rubber ring inside, but it is very inconvenient and, most importantly, it was not always possible to change it. There, the thrust ring on the cone and when removed - installed did not hold well. Try to pull the stem on a new dropsy with your hands, and then drive it back. Should walk with little resistance, but freely and without binding. Also try turning the Venturi wheel all the way on the front of the dropsy.

In this article we will present one of the types of the Astra gas column. A device such as the Astra gas water heater has gained great popularity among the Russian consumer due to its convenient functionality, as well as its simple design and very low cost.

These automatic geysers have long been available on the Russian market and are represented by all kinds of models that differ in power and performance.

The main advantages and features of the Astra gas column:

1. The device of the Astra gas water heater is very simple and accessible to any user.
2. It is not crammed with unnecessary functionality, which affects its low cost.
3. It has a capacity of up to 12 l / min, (this capacity is quite enough for two points of water intake).
4. The reliability of the device.
5. Setting up the Astra gas water heater is carried out according to the instructions that are included in the kit upon purchase.

In addition, I would like to add that such a column has a simple design and the availability of spare parts that can be purchased freely on the market in the city. It should be noted that you can buy an Astra gas water heater in any online store at an affordable price.

Diagram of the gas column Astra

If you look at the details, you should mention the presence of large combustion chambers in such gas columns. There is even a power that reaches 20 kW. But the performance of a gas water heater is different and the consumption of natural gas is also different, but in most cases it is moderate.

If we talk about the parameters of the Astra 8910 gas column, then its power reaches 12 kW. The thrust in this column is independently adjustable. If we ask about its maximum temperature, then it will be 60 degrees Celsius. The thermostat in this column is located at the bottom. You should pay attention to the smoke exhaust track - it is wide. But the regulator at the Astra 8910 column is located under the central union.

The frame of this type of column is strong and can withstand any load. There is also a protection system for the power supply. It should be noted that the fitting is adjusted using a special screw.

When buying this column, the set contains instructions for the Astra 8910 gas water heater. Reviews of the Astra gas water heater can always be found positive, since the gas consumption is 2 cubic meters. meter per hour. By our standards, this is a good saving. If the Astra gas water heater has a power of 12 kW, then this flow rate is very good. This heater is equipped with a high-quality pressure regulator. The thrust in this case is very easy to check.

It should be noted that combustion products are removed quickly in this model of a gas column. The column also received high reviews for safety. There is no risk to human health when using the speakers.

The consumer also noted the low cost of the product. For 7-10 thousand rubles, you can buy a normal Astra speaker for the house.
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First, in order to repair the Astra gas column, the gas in the pipe is shut off. The column itself does not need to be removed from the wall. The front of the device is removed with a screwdriver, the bolts are unscrewed on the sides. First, the economizer is checked, which is located behind the electrode. The electrode is also not easy to remove. It is mounted in the Astra column with four bolts. We do not touch the heat exchanger.

Everything is unscrewed very carefully. This is done in order not to touch the fitting, which serves to measure the pressure in the device. If you suddenly touch or damage the pressure measurement connection, then you will have to change the head. But the economizer is very easy to remove. To do this, you only have to unscrew the two bolts on the sides of the column.

Gas water heater Astra in the bathroom

You also need to check and pay attention to the contacts, they are often dirty. If contacts become unusable, then they should be replaced with new ones. If after replacement the economizer does not work, then it will have to be completely changed. These are the main malfunctions of the Astra gas column. The same repair mechanism and basic malfunctions of the Astra 8910 gas column.

The first breakdown is when the Astra gas column does not light up. What to do? The most common problem in this is that there may be a lack of draft in the ventilation duct. Checking the draft in the chimney is very simple. You must first turn off the gas water heater and bring the burning match to the chimney outlet.

If the flame enters the chimney, then everything is in order, and you can reconnect the column to the chimney. It is easy to clean the chimney with your own hands, if you doubt your own abilities, it is better to call a special master.

Does the Astra gas water heater ignite, or does it go out right away? Then in this situation it is necessary to adjust the supply of cold water to the column. The main thing is not to try to dilute cold and hot water together, all this can lead to a sharp extinguishment of the flame.

In the future, we have a question, how to set up and install a gas water heater? To do this, you need to have the following tool with you:

1. Pipe wrench.
2. Adjustable wrench of two types.
3. Phillips and flat screwdriver.
4. A set of paronite and rubber gaskets.
5. An ordinary rubber hose 1-2 inches, a metal clamp to it.
6. A regular descaler (regular vinegar will work).
7. Capacity for draining the liquid in the column.

Also, the hydraulic group often fails in the Astra gas water heaters. It is easy to take it off, but dressing is problematic. Once you have disconnected the hydraulic group, you need to inspect the valves. Such valves must be firmly in place.

If there is the slightest shifts and no density, then the details need to be changed. The details of the hydraulic group need to be bought while knowing the model of the gas column. Also, the solenoid valve of the Astra gas column often fails. It is often clogged with soot and requires urgent cleaning to prevent an explosion.

Gas water heater Astra in the kitchen

Nikolay Yurievich, 56 years old Moscow

The technical characteristics of the Astra geyser suit us, easy to maintain, there is nothing superfluous. Unpretentious to use. The truth is huge in size, it could be smaller. Before buying, I consulted with the workers of the Gas Mountains that they were not advised to buy gas water heaters from foreign manufacturers, since spare parts for them can be bought with difficulty. Seven years of use and the Astra gas water heater has never broken down and performs all its functions. I am satisfied with the purchase.

Vera Vasilievna, 43 years old, Samara

Very easy to operate, our family is constantly supplied with hot water. The Astra column does not make noise, the work is smooth. Rust does not spit, as many say. In terms of functionality, everything is there. It has no extra buttons and settings. I was pleased with the unit.The Astra gas column diagram is available, where everything is shown in detail. I advise everyone who does not have the money to purchase a new ultra-new model of a gas water heater.

Yuri Vasilievich, 60 years old, Ufa

The Astra automatic gas water heater was purchased two years ago. For all the time there were no breakdowns. The power of the device suits me. And in terms of performance, it showed itself from the best side. The main disadvantage is the overestimation of natural gas consumption. Also a disadvantage is the small pressure parameter. The adjusting screw is durable and will not break. In principle, for that kind of money, the price of a gas water heater Astra ranges from 9,200 rubles and more.

In operation, the gas water heater Astra 8910, when you open the water, a spark is generated, and even when the flame is already burning, the spark continues to be generated, and 1 and 5 times after five seconds, it stops with the continuation of the flame, and in others it simply goes out.

It is necessary to start by cleaning the ionization electrode (which does not spark) and it would not hurt to blow off the dust from the apparatus, especially from the burner. Another wire of the ionization electrode could burn, cut and connect back.

There is a malfunction associated with the water block - when the water is cut down, the column does not go out instantly, as expected. First, it began to go out with a pop, then it began to go out with a whole series of pops, and now it does not go out at all - small strips of burning gas remain on the burner and they continue to burn and accordingly heat the column, although the water is turned off. As far as I understand, the rod does not work properly, does it not completely shut off the gas supply? When I assembled it for the last repair, the stock went pretty tight, but everything worked. Here, it seems, there is a double-edged sword, it walks freely, water seeps out, it walks tightly - there is no water, but there is no complete shutdown of the gas either. I am going to lubricate with something (graphite grease?), Maybe it will help? In extreme cases, replacing the entire water block, but for now I want to squeeze everything possible out of this, especially since I just replaced the gasket.

The frog is not to blame, the spring in the gas part is to blame. Remove the burner, pull out the smaller spring and stretch it about 1/3. They like to sit down with them. Pull out the plug and lubricate with one.

Is it possible to put a heat exchanger on the VPG-18 Astra from models 20.23?

I have never dealt with water heaters before (I lived in apartments with boilers or running hot water), but now I ran into an Astra column. It worked, but it was unrealistic to use, the pressure at the outlet was very weak (although at the inlet it was good), and when water was mixed, it extinguished. It is unrealistic to take a shower, I took half a bath of boiling water and mixed with cold water. I decided to conduct an audit, first of all I disassembled the water reducer, it was covered with plaque (layer 1 - 5-2mm), cleaned it from plaque, naturally cleaned the holes, as it turned out further - the valve body was made of low-quality metal and this metal decomposed when interacting with water ... As a result, after my "revision" the head became better, but the column stopped
ignite, then I reduced the outlet hole with a brass bushing, as a result of which it began to work, but not as I wanted? In general, if you fix this gearbox on the provided 3 screws, then it does not ignite, and if the screws are released and the gearbox is raised (I support it with a bar), then everything works fine and goes out, if the hot water is closed and does not go out if it is mixed with cold and ignites, if hot open. So I think, can lengthen the stem by 2mm? How can it be lengthened? Or what's the problem?

Please tell me if the automation on the Astra 8910 gas water heater began to turn off the burner with a delay, i.e. when the hot water is turned off, the fire goes out for half a minute, and not immediately, does this indicate a failure of the membrane? And are there any difficulties in replacing it? I have a repair kit, except for the membrane: brass fungus, oil seals, stem bushing, do you need to change any oil seals and fungus? The membrane has not changed since installation in 2008.

The smaller spring in the gas section must be stretched.

The igniter on the Astra gas column does not ignite. What could be connected with?

Remove the igniter tube and clean. It may be necessary to change the rubber gasket.

Malfunction of the gas water heater VPG-18 Astra, does not ignite, since there is no pressure in the hot water tap, while the pressure in the cold water tap is excellent. What could be the reason?

The reasons may be different: the heat exchanger is clogged with scale, the column filter is clogged, the blockage in the hot water pipe or in the tap itself, etc. You can try this: disconnect the outlet pipeline from the device and look at the water pressure directly at the outlet: if it is good, it means that something got clogged after, if it's bad, then there is a problem with the device.

The gas water heater Astra 8910 is in operation. When the water is opened, the main burner does not light up or does not light up, but burns very weakly and the flame is not regulated. There is a suspicion that it is time to change the membrane, but maybe the problem lies elsewhere?

Yes, most likely a membrane. It is not shaped, you can cut it yourself from sheet rubber up to 1 mm.

Help me find the reason, the Astra 8910-02 gas water heater, when hot water is on, it goes out from time to time, I cleaned the thermocouple to a shine, the membrane is in good condition, but just in case replaced it with a new one, the water pressure is less than that of cold water, what else note?

Maybe the traction is bad, or the traction sensor is knocking. If there is no draft sensor, then there is a tube bent with a hook at the top of the water heater and going to the igniter. Through this tube, the air necessary for combustion is supplied to the igniter. If the draft is disturbed (and, accordingly, the removal of smoke), then not air will go through the tube, but smoke, and the igniter will go out, the thermocouple will cool down and the column will turn off. So even without a draft sensor (it is triggered by an increase in temperature in the upper part of the device), but with such a system, the column reacts to a deterioration / lack of thrust. The pilot flame must hit the thermocouple. If for some reason this does not happen, then due to insufficient heating of the thermocouple, it gives less current and the solenoid valve shuts off the gas supply to the burner.

Gas water heater Astra, model 8910, 1.5 years. From the very beginning of the connection, when gas is added on increasing the temperature of hot water (from warm to noticeably hot), when turning the gas supply control knob to the left, when setting it against the right small red flame icon on the front
the speaker cover, it starts to “sing” and crackle. The pressure of the water, cold and hot, at the outlet is satisfactory, but the temperature of the water (for example, when filling into the bath) is low. I'm afraid to increase the gas supply. With a scanty turn of the knob still to the left, it continues to “sing” and crack even harder. It seems to me that this is not safe. Is it possible to somehow solve this issue?

If it's like a kettle before boiling, then it's scale. It needs to be cleaned and rinsed.

Who removed the heat exchanger from the VPG-18 gas column? Share your experience, I just can't unscrew it, I pull the gas wrench with all my might, but it doesn't give in.

The inlet and outlet of the heat exchanger are screwed on with union nuts with fittings. It can be unscrewed with ordinary keys, but there should be two of them: the fitting is held with one key, and the nut is unscrewed with the second key (you can vice versa: hold the nut and unscrew the fitting). If you use a gas wrench with force, the nut may crack. There are difficult cases when water seeps out in this compound and over time the compound turns sour. Then it is better to remove the device, put it on the floor or on the table and unscrew it like that.

Malfunction of the gas column Astra VPG-18, stopped lighting up. I disassembled the frog, changed the stock with the mushroom and the membrane. After that, it lights up only at maximum pressure and, accordingly, hardly heats up. What can be done? There is an old frog without a disk.

If the membrane is black, so it will be. If there is a 22-key cap on the front of the water block, unscrew. There is a filter installed - remove it.The adjusting needle of the pressure regulator is screwed into the plug, try unscrewing it. It will break and then it will not be a pity to buy a new regulator with a disc, you can adjust the pressure without disassembling. With the plug turned out, clean the hole in the block with a D2 spoke.

A year and a half ago, we purchased and installed an Astra gas water heater. They called the gas workers, who looked at the water pressure and advised us to buy this model. After some time, the pressure of hot water in the bathroom decreased (private house, kitchen and bathroom nearby). The kitchen has remained the same. In the kitchen, the column turned on immediately, and in the bathroom only if water was flowing in the kitchen. Today my pipes were frozen, for some time there was no water. Now the water pressure is the same as it was. But it doesn't turn on. Even if I turn on hot water, both in the bathroom and in the kitchen. Tell me, what could this be related to?

There is one outlet of hot water from the column. If the pressure of hot water in the kitchen was good, but in the bathroom it was bad, then the problem was not in the column, but in the pipe or mixer in the bathroom. Try adjusting the water flow with the appropriate adjusting screw. This is such a round piece in front of the water part (frog).

Malfunction of the Astra 18 gas column. It does not ignite at all, it goes out. We think that the membrane has burst, or there is no pressure (just before the pressure from the faucet in the kitchen was greater, now it is much weaker, but it still seems to be sufficient for the column to turn on). Let's see if it's clogged. The fact is that the pressure of cold and hot water from the tap is very different (hot water goes much weaker). The igniter seems to be good, does not bother, almost inaudible, it burns constantly. What can be done?

Try disconnecting the water outlet from the column and lighting it. If it lights up, then your pipes are clogged, if not, then either the membrane is torn, or the filter mesh is clogged. Unscrew the regulator wheel on the front of the water block, there is a nut for 8. There is a nut for 22 under it. Unscrew it and take out the filter mesh. I have had the same device for the 5th year. The igniter was noisy. I took the spring from an automatic ballpoint pen and inserted it into the pilot outlet. There, the undercut just fits. It is located under the guiding flame petal. You don't need to disassemble anything. It turned out to be a divider. Now the igniter is not audible at all.

The gas water heater Astra 8910 is in operation. Once again, having dismantled the heat exchanger and filled it with an antiscale solution, I decided to check where I have strong pressure losses. What we have: water pressure 1.6 atm. (3rd floor and water tower), 12.5 liters per minute from a cold tap. It is clear that the column reduces the water pressure. After descaling, the water flow is improved. So, the cold water pressure is good - 12.5 liters per minute. I connect the flexible inlet and outlet connections of their column with a nipple - the pressure is almost the same. I put a flushed heat exchanger. The pressure has decreased quite a bit. Thus, I found that the lion's share of the head loss occurs in the water block. 3.5 liters per minute comes out of the hot tap! Cold 12.5 and hot 3.5! The water block has a hot-cold regulator. Stands in the cold position, providing maximum water passage through the column. Maybe this regulator inside has broken down in the horizontal position, and the device slows down the flow as much as possible because of this. How can I check this?

There is nothing to break there. Most likely, the filter standing there (a mesh in the form of a tube) is clogged. It is necessary to unscrew the nut, which is hot-cold under the adjusting handwheel, and look. I remember a similar case. And the heat exchanger was washed, and the water part was disassembled, and what they did not do, but there is still not enough water at the outlet. It turned out that on the cold water pipe at the connection in front of the column, those who put it squeezed the gasket, and initially little water entered it.

The gas water heater Astra VPG is in operation. It worked well for 5 years, but a malfunction appeared. Symptoms: The wick goes out during ignition, when you release the handle.I squeeze the left handle - gas is supplied to the wick. I turn it counterclockwise - the piezo is triggered, the wick lights up, I stand waiting for the thermocouple to warm up. After waiting as many minutes as I want, let go of the handle - the wick goes out, but it should continue to burn. The last week, it often turned out that the column was turned off, for whatever reason the wick went out, I finally figured it out like that, and did not have time. I often had to go and light it. And then it turned out that sometimes it is quite difficult to ignite it, that is, it was necessary to heat the thermocouple for almost 2 minutes. And then she didn't want to fire up at all. A few hours later, it went on fire from the first time in about 30 seconds. But then it went out again and did not ignite for a day. Then it lit one last time, and I still haven't been able to do it again. Tell me how to identify and eliminate the malfunction?

Malfunction of the gas column Astra 8910-02. The igniter always lights up for a very long time, you have to press the button for about 30 seconds to ignite the igniter, and this has always been the case, even from the moment the column was installed. And the second question, recently, already during the supply of hot water, everything began to go out all the time, both the burner and the igniter, after this attenuation - it is even more difficult to ignite the igniter, you need to press the button much longer to ignite. The device is about 5 years old.

Perhaps it will help. In models of this type (that Neva, that Astra) - the principle of operation is absolutely the same.

Malfunction of the gas column Astra VPG. Cracks violently when water is supplied, and it does not matter if it burns or not, what is the reason?

You probably have a recirculation pump in your plumbing system (throughout the system). If this is the case, then it is better to connect the home system to the general water supply with a soft or plastic connection.

We lit the Astra gas water heater, turned on the hot water, the water heater goes out and lights up by itself. I was told that this is either a membrane or the stem does not move well. I opened the block, lubricated the stem with graphite grease, changed the membrane upside down. She worked for several days. Then the same thing. I bought a new block, bronze, on top of a mount with a spring, on the old one it was not, the store said that it should be so. The stem does not move at all. Okay, put it on and now even the wick won't light. What can be done?

In the old block, replace the membrane (it is stretched) and everything will be fine. The wick does not light up, because you have cleared something up a bit. Should light up, at least when the button is pressed. The fastener with a spring serves to replace / stuff the stuffing box packing of the stem, before there was a rubber ring inside, but it is very inconvenient and, most importantly, it was not always possible to change it. There, the thrust ring on the cone and when removed - installed did not hold well. Try to pull the stem on a new dropsy with your hands, and then drive it back. Should walk with little resistance, but freely and without binding. Also try turning the Venturi wheel all the way on the front of the dropsy.

Such a complex device as a gas water heater serves for quite a long time, care and operation is carried out according to the instructions attached to this unit. But all things deteriorate and sometimes minor or major repairs of gas water heaters or their prevention are necessary. As well as replacing some of the components of the gas column.

The internal structure of flow-through gas water heaters is of the same type and almost does not differ from different manufacturers. The main difference may be in additional options (display, automatic gas ignition, second temperature sensor, etc.), in the appearance of the device or in the design.

This is a gas column heat exchanger, it may look different from different manufacturers, but it has the same operating principle.

A heat exchanger is installed inside - a finned copper tube through which a water flow moves. The burner standing under the heat exchanger heats up the tube and the water passing inside it heats up.With a low water pressure or its absence, the incoming flow is blocked by a valve (curtain), to which a spark ignition switch is attached. This is for fire safety.

To repair a faulty gas water heater or prevent a gas leak (if you smell), you need to call a gas water heater repairman. But if you decide to call the workers of Gorgaz, then do not think that they will immediately come, sometimes they refuse to come, explaining that the repair should be carried out by the company (or store) that installed the gas water heater.

Now a lot of "left" firms have divorced. and calling the workers of such organizations to their homes brings a number of other problems. Many craftsmen, seeing your incompetence in this area, find non-existent faults in the gas column or deliberately raise prices.

To increase the safety of the population, it is prescribed that malfunctions associated with gas equipment be eliminated by employees of the relevant service. But there are some problems that you can fix yourself. If you know how to hold the tool in your hands, you can repair the gas water heater with your own hands.

It is not very difficult if you know the typical problems of these water heaters. Below we will tell you about the most common of them and show you how to fix this or that breakdown. And let's start by setting up the unit.

Adjusting the height of the burner flame - the closer to the maximum the hot water is.
Adjusting the water flow - the closer to the maximum, the greater the flow, therefore, the water is colder.
Winter / Summer - the mode of using the speaker at different times of the year. In winter, the power is greater than in summer.

Not all craftsmen know how to properly set up a gas water heater and simply don’t do it, leaving it as it is (by default). But we do not recommend leaving the factory settings and making adjustments yourself.

• Set the gas and water knob on the heater to minimum.
• Open the gas and water supply valves on the pipelines.
• Open a hot water tap and adjust the water pressure you need using the knob on the gas water heater.
• Wait 1-2 minutes and measure the temperature. Use the gas knob on the column to increase the flame, thereby increasing the temperature of the water to the one you need.
• When the water temperature is comfortable, you can leave all adjustments alone and use the water.

In the future, you can adjust the temperature with another knob (supply of heated water).

This is a membrane in the gas column, if it fails, then the unit stops responding to the pressure of water.

When adjusting the speaker, sometimes unpleasant moments arise. The new column either turns on at a very low pressure, or does not want to start at all. It depends on the increased or decreased water pressure in the pipeline and is eliminated in the following ways.

With our water quality, the heat exchangers in the gas columns are clogged with scale quite quickly and very much, which reduces their thermal conductivity and increases gas consumption.

The longest, in time, process - cleaning the main tube (radiator) from deposits arising from heating tap water. If you turn the gas knob all the way, and the outgoing water is barely warm, then this indicates that the heat exchanger is clogged with ordinary scale, which does not transfer heat well.

This happens quite often in the case of a gas water heater without auto-ignition (with an igniter). Scale also forms if you set the water heating temperature too high. The unit overheats, the tube (radiator) heats up to 80-850, which contributes to the rapid (a little over an hour) the appearance of scale. Isn't it better to just turn off the speaker in time? Then there will be no problems, because 40-600 are enough for all washing and washing processes.

Check the inlet cock or valve before starting work on the heat exchanger. Maybe the whole reason is their clogging. But if they are in good condition, it is necessary to get rid of the deposits in the tube.

There are two ways to deal with the scale problem. We'll look at both options.

The Cillit KalkEx cleaning system does its job pretty well. With its help, you can quickly clean any boilers from scale. Unfortunately, it is not very accessible for ordinary users of gas water heaters.

This is an expensive method using a special device. (Cillit KalkEx) and a set of special preparations for flushing. Your speaker does not even need to be removed from the wall. You just need to disconnect the water hoses (inlet / outlet).

The purification device is connected to the column, and it runs the heated reagents in a closed loop (in a circle). Scale under their action decomposes, is washed out and drained.

Cheap but time consuming and laborious process... For its implementation, it is necessary to disassemble the water heater almost completely and then rinse it manually.

The following materials and tools will help us with this:

• open-end wrenches (set);
• screwdrivers (Phillips and regular);
• paronite gaskets (set);
• rubber hose;
• vinegar essence or anti-scale agent.

To remove the heat exchanger, proceed as follows:

• first, we block the access of cold water;
• then we remove the external elements that prevent disassembly (knobs of switches, regulators);
• remove the casing, and for this we unscrew the screws located on the rear wall of the unit, lift and remove the cover;
• we open the "hot" tap;
• unscrew the supply pipe from the heat exchanger and move it aside;

After the water has completely disappeared, we put the hose on the heat exchanger tube and raise it above the column level. Slowly, pour the solution prepared by us into the hose and leave the column for 4-6 hours.

Next, you need to slightly open the water supply tap and watch the water that will come out of the column, if you saw a lot of scale, then our work was not in vain - we got rid of it... If there is no scale in the outgoing water, then we repeat the whole process again.

1. The failure of a water heater can occur for many reasons. We will list the most likely ones:
2. The simplest reason for this trouble is the lack of normal draft in the chimney. If the chimney is clogged and there is no "draft" in it, then the column may not ignite.
3. To check for a malfunction, you can bring a piece of newspaper, a napkin or a lighted match to the chimney. If they flutter, then the cravings are in order. Otherwise, you will need to clean the chimney.
4. If the device (only in units with auto-ignition from batteries or an electrical network) does not ignite, then it is all the fault of the discharge of the batteries or the malfunction of the wires, the igniter unit. Eliminated by inserting batteries or checking the electric ignition system.

Failure of the igniter system can occur from poor pressure water. Open any tap with cold water and check the pressure, if it is weak, you can call the ZhEK and find out what the problem is.

If the column does not ignite when water is supplied or only turns on at a very high pressure, then the problem is most likely in the membrane, which, due to wear, reacts poorly to the water passing through it. In this case, it must be replaced.

This is a temperature sensor that measures the temperature of the gas column during operation, preventing it from overheating.

A temperature sensor is installed on each gas column, which makes sure that the column does not overheat in the event of a failure the column may turn off spontaneously during operation... It usually looks like this:

After normal operation, for some time, the heater “stalls” for 20 minutes. After this time, it can be turned on for the same period of time. The malfunction, as a rule, is seasonal and appears only in summer or winter with closed windows.

The device turns off when it wants and then does not light up... This can happen when the sensor wire is shorted to the body. Check wires are intact and well insulated.

In order to check the sensor itself for operability, two contacts should be removed from it and short-circuited with a needle, a paper clip, a piece of tin. If the gas appliance turns on and works, the sensor must be changed.

If you see similar spots on your column, then be sure that it is leaking and needs repair.

This malfunction can occur mainly in gas water heaters that have been operating for a long time. The two main reasons for the leak are:

Tubes (bends) or gaskets in the joints are cracked.
Replacing a radiator or taps is quite expensive. Therefore, there is a reason to repair the gas column on your own. For repairs you need:

• screwdrivers (cross and regular);
• open-end wrenches (set);
• solder with rosin;
• a vacuum cleaner;
• solvent;
• "Skin".

Due to the harsh operating conditions, the radiator or bends can burn out and holes appear on them. If you have determined where the leak is, then you can repair the small hole with an ordinary soldering iron.

Preparing the gas water heater for repair

• Drain all liquid from the system - open only the hot water tap, unscrew the nut on the cold water inlet pipe, and most of the water will flow out;
• Remove the radiator completely;
• Examine the entire tube. - if you see "greenery" - clean and inspect these places for cracks.

Soldering a heat exchanger does not always give good results, here a lot depends on your skill. If the soldering is poor, the heat exchanger will quickly flow again.

When you have found the leaks, you need to do the following:

• clean the holes found with "sandpaper" and immediately wipe it with a cloth and solvent (this will remove the remaining grease, carbon deposits and dirt);
• using rosin with solder, tin this place with a 100 watt iron (in the absence of rosin, use aspirin);
• rub the crack or hole with solder, and after it cools down, add more tin (the layer should be 1-2 mm).

Replacing flexible hoses of this type does not require special skills; anyone can do it with a wrench.

Very often, leaks are formed in the places where the outlets are connected to the heater from the outside or to the internal assemblies of the column. All connections are made by "American" with gaskets inside.

Due to constant heating / cooling, the rubberized liners either melt or lose their properties and harden. Cracks appear in them, along which water flows.
If you notice a gas column leak in such connections, then replace the gaskets. Using a wrench (mostly 24), unscrew the nut and replace.

It also happens that the flanges on the pipes crack over time - in this case, you need to replace the entire pipes.

Be sure to change the batteries in the gas water heater in time, because if they are dead, your column will start to emit pops when it is turned on. Also, due to dead batteries, the column may turn off spontaneously.

These startup and operating sounds indicate the following:

• a little air got into the system (into the burner) due to the low pressure of the gas, which generated a microexplosion;
• the flame breaks down due to the high pressure of the gas;
• nozzle blockage;
• low draft of ventilation;
• the batteries are dead.

On your own, you can only eliminate the malfunctions described in the last two points.

This can happen for several reasons.

• The simplest reason is incorrectly selected gas water heater... You have saved and bought a low power heater that is unable to meet your hot water needs.
• The second reason is the low gas pressure in the pipes (in the apartment). Call gas workers to check the system.
• The third reason is a common blockage (jet, filters, scale, hoses, etc.), some types of which are described above. You can check this by the color of the fire, which changes from time to time. This is evidenced by the presence of soot.

You can only adjust the temperature and clean the column yourself.