DIY gas column repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of electrolux gas columns from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Warranty and post-warranty repair of AEG, Electrolux, Zanussi gas water heaters.

Authorized service center AEG, Electrolux, Stiebel Eltron.

Service partnership with the federal online store Rusklimat.

Repair and maintenance of gas water heaters Electrolux GWH 275 SRN (RN), GWH 250 LEN, AEG GWH 11 RN, Vaillant MAG pro OE 11-0 / 0.

These geysers were produced by the Spanish plant Fagor and are the most successful of a similar model range. The control is fully hydraulic with a permanently lit igniter. Automation is based on the speed of water flow through the water unit.

During ignition, the control knob is set to ignition, the pusher of the handle axis presses the solenoid valve. Next, we press on the piezoelectric element, the spark jumps into the ignition burner and ignites the flame.

It is necessary to wait about 10-20 seconds and turn the knob into the operating mode (summer or winter). The pilot flame heats up the thermocouple, which generates a voltage of about 30 millivolts to hold the electromagnet in a clamped state. The gas unit is brought into working order.

The column is waiting for the opening of the tap with water. As soon as water begins to flow through the water unit, the activation rod moves up and opens the gas supply valve to the burner. The burner is ignited by the pilot and the water is heated. After turning off the water, the water unit returns to its original state, the burner goes out, the igniter continues to burn.

It consists of separate units of a traction interrupter, a heat exchanger, a burner with a gas supply train and nozzles, a gas unit, a water unit, a thermocouple, an ignition burner. Gas and water units are collapsible and repairable.

Video (click to play).

For repair, the outer protective casing is removed and a visual inspection is performed. The shroud retaining screw is located under the lower handle.

Leakage can be due to burnout and corrosion of the heat exchanger, wear of the seals and oil seals of the water unit.

There were isolated cases of not turning off the gas burner after closing the water tap. Due to the lack of heat removal, the water in the heat exchanger boils, vaporization occurs and, with the release of steam, melts the parts of the water unit (between the metal half-shells, the units of the water unit are plastic).

Replacing the original heat exchanger does not cause any difficulties. There are heat exchangers of Russian production in Tula, Iva-Service LLC. In the absence of a heat exchanger, a heat exchanger from GWH285 can be installed on the GWH275. There is no need to make changes to the structure, only it is necessary to install a 3/8 ″ extension about 40 mm long between the outlet of the water unit and the inlet of the heat exchanger (in the photo it is assembled from a 1/2 ″ barrel and two adapters).

The stages of repair are shown in the photographs.

Sometimes, when installing the gas handle in the ignition position and pressing the piezoelectric element, the igniter does not ignite. The igniter can be lit with a match. This defect is caused by an incorrect position or contamination of the spark plug and, less often, a malfunction of the piezoelectric element. The presence of a spark, you can see it, and clean the candle and bend the electrode. When the button falls out of the body of the piezo base, the button can be fixed with a ring.

Another malfunction - after igniting the pilot burner, and after waiting for the required time for the thermocouple to warm up and turn the knob to the operating position, the igniter goes out. This breakdown can be caused by a malfunction of the solenoid valve of the gas unit, disruption (oxidation) of the contact between the solenoid valve and the thermocouple, malfunction of the thermocouple, malfunction of the thermostat of the gas control system (soldered to the thermocouple wires and checked by a jumper) and malfunction of the valve of the gas unit.

In the valve of the gas unit there is a plastic cylinder with a groove for moving the axis and when the groove is worn, the valve does not function correctly.

The next possible breakdown is when, when the igniter is on and the gas valve handle is in summer or winter mode, after opening the water, the burner does not ignite. This is a malfunction of the water unit, internal blockages of the filter, vias, tubes inside, damage to the membrane.

Another possible malfunction of the water unit. The stem of the water unit hangs in the upper position due to a breakdown of the water flow valve, which seizes the piston of the stem.

Note the small tab on the membrane. He is responsible for smoothly turning on the gas when the water tap is opened (the flame should increase for 2-4 seconds), and instantaneous off when the tap is closed. If the membrane tongue does not adhere tightly to the lower half (does not cover the via of the Venturi tube) of the water unit, then when you turn it on again, the column will give out a portion of boiling water. All malfunctions of the water unit are eliminated by its bulkhead or replacement.

In May 2017, a repair kit for a water unit manufactured by Nizhny Novgorod appeared. The repair kit includes rubber rings, a membrane, a lubricant. The repair kit can be purchased from us.

The extinction of the column during its operation is associated with clogging of the heat exchanger soot or weak draft and insufficient air flow into the room. At a nominal gas consumption of 2 cu. meters per hour, about 25 cubic meters of air are needed, naturally, when installed in a small room, without providing air flow, the gas column will go out.

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Let's say right away that repairing a gas water heater, like any other gas equipment, is a matter exclusively for professionals. But, although repairing speakers with your own hands is not allowed, knowledge is not superfluous. The ability to determine on your own what exactly has broken down, how this breakdown threatens, and what the repair can be will not interfere with anyone. What breakdowns of gas water heaters are there, and what "symptoms" are they accompanied by?

At first glance, repairs may seem difficult

To begin with, before getting acquainted with the basics of troubleshooting, it is not out of place to find out how the gas water heater is arranged, the repair will largely depend on the device. We will not delve into the intricacies of the device of many speaker models, we will limit ourselves only to acquaintance with the general principles.

Centralized hot water supply appeared relatively recently by historical standards. The issue of heating water at home was solved in various ways, but the most common one we had was a storage solid fuel heater - the so-called titanium. Titanium was fired with coal, less often with wood or fuel oil. The water in the boiler had to be warmed up in advance. So taking a bath had to spend at least an hour. Of course, using such a device was very inconvenient. The problem of fast heating of water was solved in gas water heaters.

Gas water heater device

The work of the geyser consists in heating tap water with gas from the city main. To speed up the heating process, a heat exchanger serves, in which the water flow is distributed through a system of thin tubes located directly above the gas burner. Due to this, it is possible to heat the water quickly enough, right in the process of use, there is no need to pre-accumulate the heated water in the tank.

This is the fundamental device of the gas water heater, all the rest of the filling serves to ignite the gas, regulate the heating of the water, and also ensure safety.

The main burner is ignited:

From the igniter. The constantly burning igniter, in turn, is turned on by piezo ignition (automatic or manual from a button) or manually ignited from a match. Unless, of course, you are lucky enough to get ownership of such a rarity.
Piezo ignition without igniter.
Electronic ignition. By its structure, electronic ignition is similar to the ignition of a car.

Security systems are:

Mechanical. Almost any column, even stuffed with electronics, is equipped with a simple device - a mechanical connection between a membrane in a water intake device and a valve in a gas pipe. The gas valve only opens when the water pressure pushes against the diaphragm with sufficient force. The principle is simple: no water - no gas is supplied to the burner, turn on the water - the burner turns on.

The column may not work for many reasons. Now we will tell you about the most common ones.

There may be several reasons why the gas column does not light up. First of all, make sure the pilot is on. If the igniter does not work, call the gasman from the public service, he will replace or clean the igniter jet.

In columns with electronic ignition, if ignition has not occurred, the gas supply is cut off by a valve, which the user is informed about by the corresponding indicator. Study the instructions (which you should have studied before turning on the column for the first time), perhaps the problem can be solved with your own hands by simply replacing the battery. Otherwise, contact the manufacturer.

Another reason that the gas column does not ignite may be the lack of draft in the ventilation shaft. You can check the draft by holding a sheet of paper or a lighted match to the ventilation grill. If there is no draft, you can eliminate the blockage of the ventilation well with your own hands, or by contacting the utilities.

Warm water will not give a lighted column

Another reason for burner failure is deterioration of the water diaphragm. The membrane deforms over time from constant loads, the burner switching device loses sensitivity when water is supplied and does not work. Unfortunately, nothing can be done about this, even in the columns of serious Western manufacturers, the membranes have to be changed every 5-7 years.

Try to open the water tap to the maximum, if the column is turned on at maximum pressure, then it is the membrane that will have to be replaced. It is also necessary to check the filter that is equipped with the water intake of the column. Insufficient water pressure to open the gas valve may be due to a clogged filter. The water filter does not belong to gas equipment, and you can replace it yourself.

Finally, the column may not light up due to improper operation of the bimetallic sensors. They will be discussed below.If the column ignites, but goes out, the culprit is most likely a bimetallic temperature sensor, designed to protect the column from overheating. A malfunction usually has two manifestations:

The burner lights up, the column works normally for a while, after which it goes out and does not work for some time - attempts to ignite the results do not give results. After 15-20 minutes, the column can be turned on again, the burner lights up, and then again, after about the same period of time, it goes out again. This happens due to the "innate" increased sensitivity of the sensor.

It also happens that the column goes out at the most inopportune momentIn principle, this is a warranty case, but the fact is that the problem is seasonal in nature and arises during the heat of summer or winter, when the windows in the kitchen are constantly closed. In both cases, the air temperature is elevated and the column is not cooled properly. It may happen that the problem will manifest itself when the warranty period expires. Alas, in this case, the repair will have to be done at your own expense.

Disconnections of the column are chaotic, the device sometimes does not light up at all. Such behavior of the heater may indicate deterioration of the insulation of the sensor conductor. A short to the body occurs, causing the safety valve to operate. It is useless to call the gasman - the problem is not in the gas part, you should also not try to fix it with your own hands. For repairs, it is better to contact the manufacturer of this model or to the service center.

If the gas supply occurs, it means that the water pressure in the water intake is normal, the problem is in the blockage of the heat exchanger with scale. One of the reasons may be "idle" combustion of the igniter for a long time. The igniter has enough time to heat the heat exchanger, causing active evaporation of the remaining water. The formed scale is not washed out due to the lack of water flow and until the next turn-on of the column has time to "grab", the result - the column does not work. Repair consists in cleaning or replacing the heat exchanger.Scale-clogged heat exchanger Reduce water pressurePossible reasons are as follows:

The gas pressure is too high, the burner ignites too actively, as a result of which the flame breaks out.
The gas pressure is too weak, air gets inside the burner, which is accompanied by a microexplosion.

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The burner needs cleaning and adjustment. In principle, nothing complicated, but you do not need to take on this work with your own hands, the repair of the gas water heater should be carried out by a specialist.Insufficient heating of water can be associated with a low power of the column. Do not turn on the hot tap in the bathtub, sink and kitchen at the same time, or buy a more powerful unit.An incorrectly selected column will not have time to heat the waterAnother possible cause could be a clogged burner, as indicated by a yellow flame. Call a gasman, a specialist will solve this problem in an hour.This is already serious and threatens with the most dire consequences. Turn off the column immediately, turn off the gas supply valve, provide constant ventilation in the room, call the emergency service (104) and wait for the arrival of the brigade.In conclusion, once again I would like to remind you of security. Do not try to disassemble, clean or repair gas equipment yourself. This is a job for qualified professionals only.The Electrolux 275 column goes out
installed a gas water heater electrolux 275 with piezo ignition. a couple of minutes after switching on, both burners go out. there are no problems with water pressure, gas pressure and hood. Please advise someone who has encountered something similar.
ps the column was bought recently, but the box was lost (the warranty card and documents are intact), can we hope that the store can be returned / exchanged for another?
Thank you.There may be problems with the draft sensor.Hello dear forum participants. A leak appeared in the ElectroluxGWH275 geyser at the junction between the gas and water unit (frog). By analogy with the old Soviet columns, he assumed that water flows through the stem oil seal, but having disassembled the frog, he did not find any oil seal. The stem channel was cleaned, after which the leak increased.
If someone has been repairing such columns or is familiar with their device, please tell me if this gland is there at all and where is it located, if not, how to seal the stem or where else can a leak occur?
I tried to fill the channel with lithol, it does not help.
Thank you in advance, I really hope for your help, sincerely Kozlechkov Evgeniy.

Watch the rubber bands in the seals of the pipe connections to the frog, especially the pipes from the heat exchanger. Often they flow, but it seems that the oil seal is leaking.

The oil seal is there, but I do not know any cases of its failure. Unless they themselves ripped open with a screwdriver when they cleaned the stem bore. There was no need to do this, just cleaning the stem and lubricating it. The gland is in the frog's top cover.
If it's about him, then a clearing for experiments. Most likely, it comes with a lid. Litol is not suitable for rod lubrication; it is easily washed off with water. Something fatty or silicone is needed there.

Need help with electrolux gwh 275 srn
electrolux gwh 275 srn is a gas water heater. I used to do everything with my own hands. I bought this column - installed it, connected water and gas. And the problems began. To begin with, she did not have enough chimney capacity. I cleaned it.Now it works, but when the regulator selects a low temperature of hot water (up to 40 degrees) with insufficient water flow through the column, the main burner does not turn on. Although the modeling burner, and the column according to the passport, operates from 1 to 10 atm.
If you choose a high water temperature, then everything works, but we have boiling water at the exit. Maybe someone knows the design of the column. Most likely you need to turn some kind of tuning screw. But there are several of them - I am afraid to worsen the situation.
Thanks in advance for your kind advice.This is from the instruction manual:The first level of the security system is the traction sensor. The sensor is triggered in the absence or appearance of reverse flow, shutting off the gas supply to the main burner.The second level of the safety system is a thermocouple, which automatically cuts off the gas supply when the ignition burner flame goes out.truntaev wrote:
when the regulator selects a low temperature of hot water (up to 40 degrees) with insufficient water flow through the column, the main burner does not turn on.The third level of security - hydraulic safety valve, which is necessary so that gas flows to the main burner only if water is circulating in the heat exchanger... This protects the gas water heater from overheating.The column runs on natural gas with a pressure of 13 mbar.Do not reduce the pressure of hot water by closing the water inlet shut-off valve. The heater must be in the fully open position when operating.Thank you for your answer and willingness to help. The first two levels of security are met. Water circulates too. The opposite is true. The burner lights up and works when a high water temperature is selected.
If I indicate about 30-40 degrees, it goes out. It is worth turning the regulator in the direction of increasing the temperature, it immediately lights up happily and works. But taking a shower at a temperature of 70 degrees is, you see, discomfort.
Maybe you need to configure something?
C, gratitude, Truntaev N.Judging by the first post, in order for the main burner to light up, you adjust the knob on which a small, large flame and lightning are drawn, and so that you put it on in a full flame position, right?I have only two handles - 1st igniter, summer version, winter version of the burner;

The 2nd regulates the temperature of the water at the outlet of the column from cool to hot.
So I try to set the water temperature to 30 degrees with the second handle and the burner goes out.
At this temperature, it does not ignite. Hot water - please.

And if during the operation of the column, set the temperature from 70 to 30 degrees, will it work or not? If not, then the gas block may be defective.The Electrolux 275 geyser buzzes and does not heat the water well.
” >Here is a column with piezo ignition. I bought used quite a bit, we checked it together, the water was heated almost to steam =)
I put it at myself - the temperature is at the maximum. With a weak pressure from the tap or the column does not ignite the gas at all, or if you unscrew the tap a little more, it ignites, but the flame is small and, accordingly, the water is slightly warm. If you unscrew the tap very hard, then it starts to heat well, the flame is strong, but then it begins to hum (rattle) strongly, and the pressure of the water from the tap is so strong that it simply starts to drain into the sink and does not have time to drain.
And even with a very strong pressure, it does not heat up as much as it did when we checked it and the previous owner.The cold water vent from the riser is fully open - the water pressure is very good. Judging by the strong flame (with a strong pressure of water), there are no problems with gas pressure either.
I also thought about this. The former owner supplied water to the column with a thick liner (like for a washing machine), but the nuts were also 1/2-inch. I put on a regular (thin) eyeliner. Maybe the dog rummaged here? although I can’t find an explanation.when the tap is unscrewed, the pressure is very strong, even with thin connections.Next is the question with the buzzing of the column with a strong pressure. The column works for both the kitchen and the bathroom. If the hot tap in the kitchen is not very open and the tap in the bathroom is turned on, then the column immediately begins to hum. This is logical, but why is it buzzing with infection? Apparently this is how it reacts to the pressure relief in the line, but why? And should she react that way?I want to share an incident from life in my home.
It will come in handy either to repair a column or a radiator ...I bought a column in an Internet store, the price is attractive (5.251 rubles - I can name the coordinates, not advertising), the quality is like everyone else's, it heats the water on one source, I was ready for this and I am quite satisfied with this alignment.
However, it worked for half a year, and WITH INCORRECT exploitation by my girls, it began to slowly glitch, but not critical.
I did not make the chimney quite correctly, cold air rushing out of it if the column stops working (the return line turns on by itself - I did not calculate the draft in short).
And it froze, did not turn on for a long time.
One fine day, frosty ... 02/06/2018 the column at 6-00 in the morning refused.
And when it was a little thawed with a hairdryer, it flowed like ... don’t understand who.I disassembled it, and there three holes formed on the copper tubes, the cracks are small, but they clearly interfered with the operation.
We all got to work only after a cold wash and a bad mood that we would have to buy a new column ... expenses ...
However, according to the practice of our town and the familiar "handy" men, I got a powerful soldering iron (mine turned out to be rather weak, I could not heat the solder to the required temperature), there was rosin, tin was ... I soldered easily by disassembling the case. I helped myself with a lighter, I thought the soldering iron would not cope ... but in vain. Everything worked out great.
Having tested the column at high temperatures, I found out that the repair was a success. Photos are attached.P.S. my friend for the repair of such a Chinese shit (15,000 Hyundai gas boiler) gave 8,000. BUT a week later he broke it again. Therefore, what you can do yourself, figure it out, ask people ... it is better not to rush to buy a new one. You buy the same terrible thin parts and put in a new one, after half a year it will leak out, it will be a shame and a pity for the money.
Thank you all, I believe that the recordings will help you. If you have any questions, write, call, I will advise what to do. Image - DIY gas column repair

Such a complex device as a gas water heater serves for quite a long time, care and operation is carried out according to the instructions attached to this unit. But all things deteriorate and sometimes minor or major repairs of gas water heaters or their prevention are necessary. As well as replacing some of the components of the gas column.

The internal structure of flow-through gas water heaters is of the same type and almost does not differ from different manufacturers. The main difference may be in additional options (display, automatic gas ignition, second temperature sensor, etc.), in the appearance of the device or in the design.

This is a gas column heat exchanger, it may look different from different manufacturers, but the principle of operation is the same.

A heat exchanger is installed inside - a finned copper tube through which a water flow moves. The burner standing under the heat exchanger heats up the tube and the water passing inside it heats up. With a low water pressure or its absence, the incoming flow is blocked by a valve (curtain), to which a spark ignition switch is attached. This is for fire safety.

To repair a faulty gas water heater or prevent a gas leak (if you smell), you need to call a gas water heater repairman. But if you decide to call the workers of Gorgaz, then do not think that they will immediately come, sometimes they refuse to come, explaining that the repair should be carried out by the company (or store) that installed the gas water heater.

Now a lot of "left" firms have divorced. and calling the workers of such organizations to their homes brings a number of other problems.Many craftsmen, seeing your incompetence in this area, find non-existent faults in the gas column or deliberately raise prices.

To increase the safety of the population, it is prescribed that malfunctions associated with gas equipment be eliminated by employees of the relevant service. But there are some problems that you can fix yourself. If you know how to hold the tool in your hands, you can repair the gas water heater with your own hands.

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It is not very difficult if you know the typical problems of these water heaters. Below we will tell you about the most common of them and show you how to fix this or that breakdown. And let's start by setting up the unit.

Adjusting the height of the burner flame - the closer to the maximum the hot water is.
Adjusting the water flow - the closer to the maximum, the greater the flow, therefore, the water is colder.
Winter / Summer - the mode of using the speaker at different times of the year. In winter, the power is greater than in summer.

Not all masters know how to properly set up a gas water heater and simply don’t do it, leaving it as it is (by default). But we do not recommend leaving the factory settings and making adjustments yourself.

Set the gas and water knob on the heater to minimum.
Open the gas and water supply valves on the pipelines.
Open a hot water tap and adjust the water pressure you need using the knob on the gas water heater.
Wait 1-2 minutes and measure the temperature. Use the gas knob on the column to increase the flame, thereby increasing the temperature of the water to the one you need.
When the water temperature is comfortable, you can leave all adjustments alone and use the water.

In the future, you can adjust the temperature with another knob (supply of heated water).

This is a membrane in the gas column, if it fails, then the unit stops responding to the pressure of water.

When adjusting the speaker, sometimes unpleasant moments arise. The new column either turns on at a very low pressure, or does not want to start at all. It depends on the increased or decreased water pressure in the pipeline and is eliminated in the following ways.

With our water quality, the heat exchangers in the gas columns are clogged with scale quite quickly and very much, which reduces their thermal conductivity and increases gas consumption.

The longest, in time, process - cleaning the main tube (radiator) from deposits arising from heating tap water. If you turn the gas knob all the way, and the outgoing water is barely warm, then this indicates that the heat exchanger is clogged with ordinary scale, which does not transfer heat well.

This happens quite often in the case of a gas water heater without auto-ignition (with an igniter). Scale also forms if you set the water heating temperature too high. The unit overheats, the tube (radiator) heats up to 80-850, which contributes to the rapid (a little over an hour) the appearance of scale. Isn't it better to just turn off the speaker in time? Then there will be no problems, because 40-600 are enough for all washing and washing processes.

Check the inlet cock or valve before starting work on the heat exchanger. Maybe the whole reason is their clogging. But if they are in good condition, it is necessary to get rid of the deposits in the tube.

There are two ways to deal with the scale problem. We'll look at both options.

The Cillit KalkEx cleaning system does its job pretty well. With its help, you can quickly clean any boilers from scale. Unfortunately, it is not very accessible for ordinary users of gas water heaters.

This is an expensive method using a special device. (Cillit KalkEx) and a set of special preparations for flushing. Your speaker does not even need to be removed from the wall. You just need to disconnect the water hoses (inlet / outlet).

The purification device is connected to the column, and it runs the heated reagents in a closed loop (in a circle).Scale under their action decomposes, is washed out and drained.

Cheap but time consuming and laborious process... For its implementation, it is necessary to disassemble the water heater almost completely and then rinse it manually.

The following materials and tools will help us with this:

open-end wrenches (set);
screwdrivers (Phillips and regular);
paronite gaskets (set);
rubber hose;
vinegar essence or anti-scale agent.

To remove the heat exchanger, proceed as follows:

first, we block the access of cold water;
then we remove the external elements that prevent disassembly (knobs of switches, regulators);
remove the casing, and for this we unscrew the screws located on the rear wall of the unit, lift and remove the cover;
we open the "hot" tap;
unscrew the supply pipe from the heat exchanger and move it aside;

After the water has completely disappeared, we put the hose on the heat exchanger tube and raise it above the column level. Slowly, pour the solution prepared by us into the hose and leave the column for 4-6 hours.

Next, you need to slightly open the water supply tap and watch the water that will come out of the column, if you saw a lot of scale, then our work was not in vain - we got rid of it... If there is no scale in the outgoing water, then we repeat the whole process again.

The failure of a water heater can occur for many reasons. We will list the most likely ones:
The simplest reason for this trouble is the lack of normal draft in the chimney. If the chimney is clogged and there is no "draft" in it, then the column may not ignite.
To check for a malfunction, you can bring a piece of newspaper, a napkin or a lighted match to the chimney. If they flutter, then the cravings are in order. Otherwise, you will need to clean the chimney.
If the device (only in units with auto-ignition from batteries or an electrical network) does not ignite, then it is all the fault of the discharge of the batteries or the malfunction of the wires, the igniter unit. Eliminated by inserting batteries or checking the electric ignition system.

Failure of the igniter system can occur from poor pressure water. Open any tap with cold water and check the pressure, if it is weak, you can call the ZhEK and find out what the problem is.

If the column does not ignite when water is supplied or only turns on at a very high pressure, then the problem is most likely in the membrane, which, due to wear, reacts poorly to the water passing through it. In this case, it must be replaced.

This is a temperature sensor that measures the temperature of the gas column during operation, preventing it from overheating.

A temperature sensor is installed on each gas column, which makes sure that the column does not overheat in the event of a failure the column may turn off spontaneously during operation... It usually looks like this:

After normal operation, for some time, the heater “stalls” for 20 minutes. After this time, it can be turned on for the same period of time. The malfunction, as a rule, is seasonal and appears only in summer or winter with closed windows.

The device turns off when it wants and then does not light up... This can happen when the sensor wire is shorted to the body. Check wires are intact and well insulated.

In order to check the sensor itself for operability, two contacts should be removed from it and short-circuited with a needle, a paper clip, a piece of tin. If the gas appliance turns on and works, the sensor must be changed.

If you see similar spots on your column, then be sure that it is leaking and needs repair.

This malfunction can occur mainly in gas water heaters that have been operating for a long time. The two main reasons for the leak are:

Tubes (bends) or gaskets in the joints are cracked.
Replacing a radiator or taps is quite expensive.Therefore, there is a reason to repair the gas column on your own. For repairs you need:

screwdrivers (cross and regular);
open-end wrenches (set);
solder with rosin;
a vacuum cleaner;
solvent;
"Skin".

Due to the harsh operating conditions, the radiator or bends can burn out and holes appear on them. If you have determined where the leak is, then you can repair the small hole with an ordinary soldering iron.

Preparing the gas water heater for repair

Drain all liquid from the system - open only the hot water tap, unscrew the nut on the cold water inlet pipe, and most of the water will flow out;
Remove the radiator completely;
Examine the entire tube. - if you see "greenery" - clean and inspect these places for cracks.

Soldering a heat exchanger does not always give good results, here a lot depends on your skill. If the soldering is poor, the heat exchanger will quickly flow again.

When you have found the leaks, you need to do the following:

clean the holes found with "sandpaper" and immediately wipe it with a cloth and solvent (this will remove the remaining grease, carbon deposits and dirt);
using rosin with solder, tin this place with a 100 watt iron (in the absence of rosin, use aspirin);
rub the crack or hole with solder, and after it cools down, add more tin (the layer should be 1-2 mm).

Replacing flexible hoses of this type does not require special skills; anyone can do it with a wrench.

Very often, leaks are formed in the places where the outlets are connected to the heater from the outside or to the internal assemblies of the column. All connections are made by "American" with gaskets inside.

Due to constant heating / cooling, the rubberized liners either melt or lose their properties and harden. Cracks appear in them, along which water flows.
If you notice a gas column leak in such connections, then replace the gaskets. Using a wrench (mostly 24), unscrew the nut and replace.

It also happens that the flanges on the pipes crack over time - in this case, you need to replace the entire pipes.

Be sure to change the batteries in the gas water heater in time, because if they are dead, your column will start to emit pops when it is turned on. Also, due to dead batteries, the column may turn off spontaneously.

These startup and operating sounds indicate the following:

a little air got into the system (into the burner) due to the low gas pressure, which generated a microexplosion;
the flame breaks down due to the high pressure of the gas;
nozzle blockage;
low draft of ventilation;
the batteries are dead.

On your own, you can only eliminate the malfunctions described in the last two points.

This can happen for several reasons.

The simplest reason is incorrectly selected gas water heater... You have saved money and bought a low power heater that is unable to meet your hot water needs.
The second reason is the low gas pressure in the pipes (in the apartment). Call gas workers to check the system.
The third reason is the usual blockage (jet, filters, scale, hoses, etc.), some types of which are described above. You can check this by the color of the fire, which changes from time to time. This is evidenced by the presence of soot.

Video (click to play).

You can only adjust the temperature and clean the column yourself.

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