DIY speaker repair

In detail: do-it-yourself speaker repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Well, good all the time of the day chtol)))

In general, I don’t want to write much, in short the essence ...
in the distant distant times, when dinosaurs roamed the vastness of our immense homeland, and most of the Russians faked without a gap on the vaz2106 cars, they got the Ivolga ovals from the wheelbarrow ... and this is how it all started ...
In general, the owner did not like them very much, and they were barbarously thrown into the garage just on the floor, for at least 2 3 winters they literally froze into the ice in the spring when everything melts on the street and frost at night ... In general, the fate of these speakers cannot be envied)))

Well, I repeat, these columns are somewhere for a vskidku years 8 9 at least probably)))
Well, given my passion for sound in a car, I took them home))

The diagnosis was quite funny, the diff, well, not directly jammed tightly, but it was sooooo difficult to move and get into a wedge in any position, the hand did not rise to the wedge)))
The joke was in a specifically shitty coil and a skewed magnet

And then, an idea hit me in my head, why not try to disassemble it to Vinik Din and clean it and if it’s not something to repair)))
Well said done) I read a couple of posts on how to repair subs, and voila, I became a guru in this matter)))))

Has the speaker wheezed or stopped sounding and want to bring it back to life? First, diagnostics. We remove the speaker, disconnect the wires from the terminals, having previously marked the polarity. In the future, we adhere to this rule: everything that we disassemble, draw or photograph will help a lot.

We check the winding resistance with the device. There are three options here.
1) Break.
2) Nominal resistance.
3) Reduced resistance.

Video (click to play).

Now the second check. We put the speaker on the magnet and gently move the diffuser up and down. If you hear a rustle or creak, or there is no movement, the speaker will have to be disassembled.

If there is no grinding, and the winding is open - you need to check the conductivity of the flexible wires from the terminals to the soldering of the winding. They are made of threads intertwined with copper veins that break over time. They can be replaced without disassembling the speaker with M.G. T.F. a suitable cross-section or braid tape to remove excess solder.
We solder the wires so that they do not stretch when the diffuser moves and do not touch it. We glue the place of soldering with Moment glue.

If the speaker needs to be disassembled, disconnect the wires from the terminals, put the speaker on the magnet and with a swab dipped in acetone, soften the glue around the protective cap and remove it, prying it off with a non-sharp scalpel. In the same way, peel off the outer edge of the diffuser and the outer edge of the centering washer. Carefully pull the diffuser straight up without skewing.

I do not recommend unsticking the coil frame from the diffuser and centering washer, so as not to disturb the centering of the speaker.

To rewind, you need to assemble a simple device, the device of which is clear from the figure. The hardest part is the spool holder. To make it, you need to contact a turner. Mandrel length 100-150 mm, material - any metal.

We measure the inner diameter of the coil (x). The mandrel for the spool should have a diameter of x + 0.5 mm at one end and x-0.5 mm at the other end.
On the large end, we drill a 3.2 mm hole and cut an M4 thread for attaching the handle.
We drill a 6.5 mm through hole for the stud. The surface of the mandrel must be sanded.

Now you can start winding. We need alcohol-based glue, for example, BF-2 or BF-6, paper from the MBM capacitor, wire and a lot of patience.

We dilute the glue with alcohol. We pierce the centering washer with a needle, thread the winding wire and solder it to the flexible wire.We fix the wire at the soldering point and at the beginning of the winding by gluing pieces of paper.
If the coil frame is made of metal, we glue it with a layer of paper from the capacitor without overlapping layers. We wind the wire coil to coil, gluing it before winding and over it. Remove excess glue with your finger. We try to wind not tightly, but tightly.

On the first layer we glue the paper from the capacitor without overlapping layers and perform the same actions in reverse order. When the winding is ready and soldered to the terminals, you need to connect them to a 4-5 Volt power source with a current of 1-2 Amperes to dry. The winding will heat up to 50-60 degrees, while the glue will dry and harden, the coil will expand slightly. This will help to easily remove it from the mandrel.

We check the free play of the coil in the speaker gap and start assembling.
We need to align the coil exactly to the center. There are 2 ways to do this.
1) Place a film or X-ray film gasket in the gap.
2) Apply a small constant voltage of 2-3 Volts to the coil so that it is slightly pulled inward.

Apply a layer of Moment glue to the outer edge of the diffuser and the outer edge of the centering washer and lower the diffuser vertically downward without skewing and without radial displacement, press. You can turn the speaker over onto a flat table and while the glue dries, solder the wires to the terminals.

After the glue dries, remove the gasket and check the free play of the coil in the speaker gap.
If everything is in order, we glue the protective cap in place and enjoy the result!

Acoustic systems are divided into active, passive, the difference is limited by the presence of sound processing chips inside, powered by electric current. Amplifiers, filters, interfaces for reading flash media, decoding compressed audio formats. In the latter case, the speaker system approximates the functionality of the player. Consider what to do when the speakers are not working. The speakers include a myriad of sound reproducing devices, readers are interested in how they repair speakers with their own hands. You will need special glue. In the days of the USSR, BF 4, AK 20. Solvents are selected accordingly (based on glue). It will be necessary, disassembling, dismantling the connection, and repairing the speaker system yourself.

A movable part with a rigid plate creates air vibrations that are perceived by the human ear.

Do-it-yourself repair of acoustic systems, doubting how the device works, is supposed to use the principle - do not harm. Regardless of the size, the speaker of the speaker system is formed by electrical, mechanical parts. The first is formed mainly by inductors. The second includes a permanent magnet, a membrane. Here is an incomplete classification of speakers of acoustic systems.

Readers are familiar with naturally occurring audio reproducing devices. There is not always a coil in the speaker system. Therefore, before the repair, in the process, the master performs the correct classification of the devices, properly carrying out the necessary operations.

Partially touched the device. Let's consider in more detail the electrodynamic models. The diffuser forms the support for the cap. It is represented by the semblance of a wide horn on which the coil is glued from the back side. Flexible copper conductors, carrying an electric current, fit directly to the membrane cap, punching the diffuser from the inside. The soldering points are visible from the front of the speaker. The coil is light; it is required to provide a relatively low inertia of the system. Even the tuning fork A of the first octave lies at 440 Hz. It is clear that for fluctuations of the indicated speed, the moving part of the speaker of the acoustics must be light.

The magnet is fixed on the bed. Usually circular. An inductor runs in both directions in the hole, moving the cap-membrane assembly. The connecting wires make constant vibrations. A centering washer is used to position the movable part along the vertical, horizontal axis.Perforated piece of elastic material, centering the location of the cap, diffuser. The centering washer does not interfere with the displacement of the moving part along the axis of symmetry. The repair is ridiculously simple:

Since the membrane and cap do not break, it is a matter of checking the electrical installation, the soldering points of the wires, the integrity of the coil.

Inductance is wound in the image and likeness of the old one. Each layer of turns is coated with BF 4 glue. Poor soldering is performed anew. Select the appropriate inductance winding technique. Usually a special device is made, formed by two pairs of racks, standing opposite each other on a long board. Both are connected by axles. One contains the core of the new coil, the other contains the purchased wire. It is recommended to buy the wire with varnish insulation. It is necessary to maintain the correct thickness. You can measure using a vernier caliper.

Winding is relatively fast while the glue dries. The coils fit tightly to one another, adhering to the shuttle principle. It is important to maintain the correct number of turns, properly position the terminals.

It is often necessary to disassemble a speaker of a speaker system for repair. Stock up on solvent. The glued joints are wetted, waiting for a fixed time. Please note: the joints are carefully cleaned. It is made regardless of the glue used to assemble the speaker of the speaker system.

Speakers are different types of speaker systems, each with a limited frequency response. Everyone works as a kind of mechanical filter. However, it happens that you need to shift the range ... You can raise the resonance frequencies of the electrodynamic system by varnishing the centering washer. Used 5-10% solution of ZAPON, cellulose in acetone. The varnish is applied with a soft brush in a circle. Avoid misaligning the moving part of the loudspeaker. Consecutively performing the operations, we will increase the resonance frequency by 1.5–2 times, approximately one octave.

To lower the range, weights should be glued to the moving part. The correct ring of cardboard is attached to the back of the diffuser. It is necessary to more precisely maintain the symmetry of the arrangement of the parts. The sound pressure drops rapidly. The volume decreases, the range is narrowed from the high frequency side. However, in the area of resonance, the loudspeaker will perform well.

You can expand the range in both directions (if there is no cap). In the center, from the front, a truncated cone is glued above the inductance coil of the speaker of the speaker system. The mass is made as small as possible. Thin, thick paper impregnated with ZAPON varnish will do. The top plate is equal to the coil, the height is half the cone, the taper is 70 degrees. Due to the increase in the mass of the moving part, the resonant frequency decreases, but the upper edge of the range rises, thanks to the rigid core, which is harder than the diffuser. As a result, the spectrum of the reproduced sounds expands in both directions. The total increase will be one and a half or two octaves, the game is worth the candle. Take care to correctly configure the electronic part: if there are passive filters on capacitors and resistors, they will limit (cut off) the capabilities of the mechanics.

Craftsmen increase the sound pressure at the resonant frequency for an unshielded magnetic system. Try to find one or a similar set ring. Then glue the second magnet on the reverse side of the one standing, the interaction of the fields will increase, therefore, the strength of the sound will increase.

The speaker system is simple and can break, they said. We hope the renovation goes off without a hitch.

It was necessary to equip a computer workstation. In order to save money, I decided to restore and repair the old computer speakers "Genius". The speakers are sturdy, in a sturdy case and with a decent acoustic radiator, but the electronics have caused criticism.Using affordable and cheap electronic modules purchased in online stores, we managed to make loud speakers with clear sound with our own hands. In terms of their parameters, computer speakers turned out to be cheaper than similar acoustics purchased in a store. A detailed step-by-step repair instruction with a diagram, photo and video is presented.

Computer speakers "Genius SP-16" were taken for restoration and repair. Loudspeakers began their life from the days of 14 ″ computer cathode-ray monitors. The enclosures are made of durable plastic with sufficient internal volume. Speakers with high efficiency and good reproduction characteristics are installed inside the speakers. But there are claims to electronics, which were partially eliminated during operation (replacement of electrolytic capacitors). Unfortunately, the sound from the speakers was not of high quality, especially at high volume, nonlinear distortions were clearly visible and annoying.

For the repair, the following restoration scheme was applied:

Replace the existing low-frequency amplifier with a class D amplifier.
Maintain the basic controls for the speakers.
Use an existing transformer to power the speakers.

For repairs, a ready-made switching power stabilizer for 5 Volts 2 Amperes and a digital stereo ULF board (3 watts per channel) were used. This type of ULF was deliberately chosen because of its low cost (

15 rubles) and unpretentiousness. The stereo amplifier was bought on Aliexpress from this link https://ali.pub/1e25ap... And the adjustable voltage regulator at this link . Buy 10 amplifiers at once, believe me it will come in handy, at this price it's for nothing!

To work, you will need a long Phillips screwdriver, a soldering iron with accessories for soldering, and pieces of tinned and insulated copper conductors. The presence of a suction for solder will facilitate the dismantling work. A tester is required to control the rations and settings.

The photo shows a diagram of the "Genius SP-16" speaker. In the diagram, crosses indicate conductors with details. All the details to the right of the cross must be soldered out and removed. The numbers show the connection points of the ULF board and power supply.

The self-tapping screws for fastening the halves of the cover of the active speaker are unscrewed
The board is removed from the open case and the power conductors and speaker connections are soldered.
The board is removed from the case and radio components are removed from it according to the diagram.
From the back side of the board, a soldering iron is installed on the legs of the conductors, according to the diagram, the power stabilizer. Before installing the ULF on the board, you must supply power to the board and check the output voltage to the +5 Volt stabilizer.
Further, the ULF board is installed on the board in the same way on the tinned conductors. The signal to the jack of the external speaker and loudspeaker is supplied with insulated conductors. See the photo.
Before final assembly, we check the operation of the ULF and volume and tone controls.
We assemble the column case. Look at the sound quality in the video.

The sound is now clear, the hiss in the absence of signals has gone beyond the audibility threshold, and the sound at maximum volume remains clear and without distortion. The repair price is less than 200 rubles (2017). Computer speakers with such parameters cannot be purchased for this price.

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At the time of 14 monitors, I purchased similar speakers Genius SP-G16 (16W) ... Since this was my first computer, monitor and speakers, initially the sound distortions were slightly annoying (I just didn't understand this) ... After a few months I had a desire to throw them out or redo (fix a flaw in the electronics), but since I did not gain knowledge in this area, the speakers were gathering dust at work for a long time (a work colleague drove them at high volume until they were hoarse and partial loss of sound) ... When I returned them home and disassembled it, it turned out that the case and the speakers are working properly .. I started to google the solution of the problem on the Internet and came out on your video ... I am impressed by the simplicity and concreteness of the presentation of your repair material. I intend to fix my speakers according to your scheme. But I have not found it on Ali already (an adjustable voltage regulator). Please, tell me which ones. characteristics from him. (I am in electronics oak and I can only put rivets with a soldering iron)

Today, the number of good sound lovers who just throw out a wheezing speaker is not decreasing! At the same time, the cost of an analogue can be a tangible amount. I think the following will help anyone who has hands that grow out of the right place to fix the speaker.

Available - a miracle of design thought, once the former column S-30 (10AC-222), now serving as one of the autosubs. A week later, after the mutation, the patient began to show signs of the disease - he emitted extraneous sounds when working out the bass parts, and wheezed a little. It was decided to conduct an autopsy.

After autopsy, a diseased organ was removed from the patient's body - woofer 25GDN-1-4, 86 of release. The organ clearly needed operation - when gently pressing the diffuser, an extraneous sound was heard (very similar to a quiet click), and when ringing in various tones (generated by the nchtoner program), a clearly audible rattling-crackling sound was heard with a large diffuser stroke and when ultra-low (5-15Hz) ) frequencies. It was decided to trepan this organ

First, the patient's flexible lead wires were sealed off (from the side of the contact pads)

Then a solvent (646 or any other capable of dissolving glue, such as "Moment") was moistened with a syringe with a needle, the place where the dust cap and the diffuser were glued (along the perimeter).

... the place where the centering washer is glued to the diffuser (around the perimeter).

... and the place where the diffuser itself is glued to the basket of the diffuser holder (again around the perimeter)

In this state, the speaker was left for 15 minutes with periodic repetition of the previous three points (as the solvent was absorbed / evaporated)

Attention! When working with a solvent, safety measures should be observed - avoid contact with skin (use rubber gloves!) And mucous membranes! Do not eat or smoke! Work in a well ventilated area!

When wetting - use a small amount of solvent, avoiding getting it on the gluing area of the coil and centering washer!

Depending on the type of solvent and air temperature, after 10-15 minutes of the above operations, using a sharp object, you can gently pry off the dust cap and remove it. The cap should either come off very easily or offer very little resistance. If you need to make significant effort, repeat the operations with wetting its edges with a solvent and waiting!

After peeling off the cap, carefully pour out the remaining solvent from the recess near the coil mandrel (by turning the patient over).

By this time, the centering washer has time to peel off. Carefully, without using any efforts, we separate it from the basket of the diffuser holder. if necessary, re-wet the gluing site with a solvent.

Wet the place where the diffuser is glued to the diffuser holder. We wait. Wet again and wait again. After about 10 minutes, you can try to peel off the diffuser. Ideally, it should detach from the diffuser holder (together with the coil and centering washer) without effort. But sometimes he needs a little help (the main thing is accuracy! Do not damage the rubber suspension.)

We clean the gluing points from the old glue and dry the disassembled speaker. We examine the disassembled patient for a malfunction. We look at the coil. If there are no scuffs and loose turns on it, we leave it alone. When peeling off the coil, glue it back with a thin layer of BF-2 glue.

We carefully inspect the place where the lead wires are attached to the diffuser. So it is - the patient has the most common malfunction in old speakers with a large diffuser travel. The lead wire at the attachment point is frayed / broken. What kind of contact can we talk about when everything hangs on a thread passed into the center of the wiring!

Gently bend back the copper "antennae".

... and solder the lead wires.

We repeat the operation for the second wiring (even if he is still alive - the disease is easier to prevent!)

We cut the supply wiring at the break point.

... and we serve the resulting ends (of course - first we use rosin). Here you need to be careful! Use a small amount of low-melting solder - the solder is absorbed into the wire like a sponge!

Gently solder the wiring into place, bend the copper "antennae" and glue (Moment, BF-2) the place where the wiring adheres to the diffuser. Remember - you cannot solder the wires to the fastening "antennae"! Otherwise, how can the wiring be changed again in ten years?

We collect the speaker. We put the diffuser with the entire “household” into the diffuser holder, orienting the wiring to the places of their attachment. Then we check the correctness of the polarity - when connecting a 1.5V AA battery to the terminals, when connecting the “+” battery to the “+” of the speaker, the diffuser will “jump out” of the basket. We put the diffuser so that its “+” lead wire is at the “+” mark on the speaker basket.

We solder the lead wires to the contact pads. Please note that the length of the wires has decreased by almost half a centimeter. Therefore, we solder them not as it was at the factory - to the hole in the plate, but with a minimum margin to maintain the length.

We center the diffuser in its basket using photographic film (or thick paper), which we place in the gap between the core and the coil. The main rule is to place the centering evenly around the perimeter, to maintain the same gap. The amount (or thickness) of the centering should be such that when the diffuser is slightly protruding outward, it freely rests on it and does not fall inward. For the 25GDN-1-4 speaker, 4 pieces of film are enough for this, placed in pairs in front of each other. The length of the film should be such that it does not interfere if you put the speaker on the diffuser. For what - read below. We glue the diffuser. We use the indication for the glue used (I recommend "Moment", the main selection criterion, so that the glue can be subsequently dissolved with a solvent). I usually stick out the diffuser 1-1.5 cm up so that the centering washer does not touch the basket of the diffuser holder, then I apply a thin layer of glue on it and the basket with a brush, wait and firmly push the diffuser inside, additionally press the washer against the basket around the perimeter with my fingers ... Then I glue the diffuser (in the retracted state, avoiding distortion).

We leave the speaker upside down for several hours under load (this is why our film should not protrude beyond the plane of the diffuser!).

Then we check the speaker for correct assembly. We take out the centering and carefully check the diffuser travel with our fingers. It should walk easily, without emitting overtones (there should be no touching of the coil and core!). We connect the speaker to the amplifier and send low-frequency tones of low volume to it. Extraneous sounds should be absent. In case of improper gluing (misalignment, etc.), the speaker must be glued (see above) and reassembled, being careful! With a high-quality assembly, we get 99% of a fully working speaker.

We glue the edge of the dust cap with glue, wait and carefully glue it to the diffuser. Here you need accuracy and precision - a crookedly glued cap does not affect the sound quality, but it spoils the speaker's appearance very much. when gluing, do not press on the center of the cap. It can bend from this and you will have to peel it off, straighten it, coat it from the inside with a thin layer of epoxy for strength and stick it back.

We wait until all parts are completely glued together (about a day) and put the finished speaker in its place. We enjoy sound that is no worse than that of a new factory analogue speaker.

That's it, now you can see that fixing a speaker is an easy task.The main thing is slowness and accuracy! So in an hour, you can slowly repair almost any woofer or midrange speaker of domestic or foreign production (for gluing imported speakers, a more powerful solvent is often required, such as acetone or toluene, carefully - they are poisonous.) Having a similar defect.

Yes, after the operation, the former patient got a second wind and the cheerful yellow subs continue to do their hard bass work:

Speaker systems can be active or passive. Internally, they have different microcircuits used to process audio.
In order for the sound to be of high quality, many devices are used to reproduce it. But all these devices cannot be seen with the naked eye, since they are located inside.
But everyone who owns them should know how the repair of loudspeakers takes place. Repair of acoustic buttons and other elements can be done with your own hands, if you know the speaker device.
In our case, we will consider the situation when the speaker speakers stopped working. You need to purchase special glue in advance, which may be needed during the repair process.
In general, any quick-drying glue you can find will do. It may just happen that during dismantling you will have to disassemble the glued joints. After that, they will need to be collected back somehow.

Before you start repairing your loudspeakers, you should know how the system works. This is necessary in order not to harm her in the process of performing certain actions.
Despite the size of the speaker, it has two components: mechanical and electrical. The first includes an induced current coil.
The second contains a magnet and a special membrane. At first glance, this mechanism seems to be simple, but it is not.
For this, you may need a speaker classification:

Reel to reel. Their principle of operation resembles the operation of a gas water heater (used to heat water). The ring of the magnet makes it move due to the formation of current in it.

Note: the device will work as long as all the turns of the coil are intact. Therefore, if the coil speaker does not work, then first of all you should pay attention to the integrity of the coil.

Tape. In this case, the variable magnet is a narrow corrugation.
At the same time, there is no coil inside, as in the previous version. To use such a device, you must purchase matching transformers in advance, which must be connected to the circuit.
Most often, these transformers are already installed from the factory.

Note: it is their presence or absence that allows you to quickly find out the type of speaker.

Isodynamic, which include a square or round spiral. It carries out circular movements together with the membrane, being under the influence of a magnetic field.

Electrostatic speakers. Their main difference is that they work without any movement. The current is initially already in the circuit, so you do not need to take any action for it to be formed.
In this case, the membrane moves a little, but it does not perform any translational movements.

Note: They are ideal for high-frequency speakers.

Capacitor, which includes two electrodes. One of them is quite massive, since it performs an important function - the supply of variable potential.
It acts as a support for the second electrode. By the way, instead of the second, you can use a foil twisted into a thin tube.
There are also other types of speakers, but only the most popular and common ones were considered.

The speakers work as follows:

Thin wires go to the cap located on the membrane. The cap itself is attached with a diffuser.
So these wires pierce it so that they have access directly to the cap.
The coil should be light, as it is necessary to achieve low inertia in the system. After all, the frequency of oscillations in the dynamics is enormous, therefore, in order to move at such a speed, the moving part of the speaker does not have to be heavy.
The magnet is stationary. Most often it is in the shape of a ring. A coil with an induced current is located in the hole.
As a rule, it moves back and forth. It also sets in motion a membrane with a cap.
The connecting wires are also in constant motion. So that the moving parts do not move from their place, they are connected in the center with a special washer, which helps to ensure that the axis of symmetry is not violated.

Speaker repair is a fairly straightforward process. The cap and membrane rarely break.
Most often, the coil fails. You should also check the soldering points of the wires, since it is possible that one of them has come off.

The old turns should be removed.

Wrap inductance on the coil as it was on the old one.

Each layer should be carefully greased with glue so that the turns are not moving.

Note: it is because of the high mobility that the turns can break. Therefore, you need to do everything possible to ensure that they are fixed in the best possible way.

The wire can be wound in any convenient way. The simplest option is to take two racks.
Place them parallel to each other and connect with an axis. Place the core on one side and the store wire on the other. The wiring should be wound quickly until the glue is dry.

Note: the wire must be lacquered.
First, it will improve its quality, so it will not rip as quickly. And secondly, there will be less likelihood that a short circuit will occur in the system.

The coils fall on top of each other. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that there is a sufficient number of revolutions.
In addition, you need to correctly place the conclusions.

Acoustic speaker in the car

Quite often, in the process of repairing loudspeakers, you have to disassemble the speakers. Therefore, you should stock up on solvent before starting repairs.
All glued joints must be moistened with glue and wait a while. Particular attention is paid to cleaning the joints.
Thus, you can do the repair of speakers with your own hands, without leaving your home. Initially, you need to purchase glue, the price of which is scanty.
Before starting the repair yourself, you also need to review the photos and videos with this topic, of which there are a lot on the Internet. Instructions on this will also come in handy.

If your loved ones the speakers began to wheeze, but love for them does not allow them to be thrown out, then you can try restore the speakers on your own... The process is troublesome, but the result is worth it.

Hello everyone! My name is Mikhail, now I'll tell you a story about how I managed to exchange a dvenashka for a 2010 Camry. It all started with the fact that I was wildly annoyed by the breakdowns of the two, like nothing serious broke down, but the little things, damn it, so many things that really started to enrage. Here the idea was born that it was time to change the car to a foreign car. The choice fell on the tayet Camry of the tenths.

One day in my the car wheezed (ripelled) the speaker I decided to just replace it with a new one. After I found out that good speakers are not cheap, I decided to give it a try. repair the old speaker yourself... To repair and remove the wheezing of the speaker we need:

Screwdriver
Acetone
Double-sided tape
Camera roll
Knife
Battery 3v
Rubber glue (for example, "Moment")
Syringe
Scissors
Piece of Whatman paper

Soak the upper gum and the lower diffuser from the glue... For this we use a syringe filled with acetone.

Peel off the upper membrane with a sharp knife, while gradually moistening with acetone. We do the same with the lower diffuser.

We unsolder contacts using a soldering iron.

Unscrew the central bolt and carefully extract everything.
If the coil winding is not intact, then you need to turn to the rewinder.

Wipe the coil from metal droplets and debris.

Need to rub around the core... For this we use double-sided tape. We glue it on a piece of narrow cardboard and try to collect the dirt inside.
Need to check, so that the core is strictly centered... It is necessary to clearly center the coil during installation.
Therefore, during installation, the upper speaker will interfere with us, which also needs to be unsoldered.

My speaker rustled due to the fact that the inner part of the coil touched the core. (the trail is clearly visible in the photo).

Centering with photo film... The foil must be wrapped around the core so that it is no more and no less than it.
We carefully put it there so that later you can get it.

We clean the surfaces from glue and apply a new layer of glue... First, lower it to the lower part, where the membrane is located, and once again check the centering using a battery. When the contacts close, the diaphragm should retract.

Leave the glue to dry and check that the membrane is pressed. We do not touch the membrane so as not to knock off the centering.

Further glue the upper part. Apply glue and press for a day. For this I used a saucer, ideally matched in diameter, a paint can and my wife's flower 🙂

After drying take out a photo film and checkso that there is no rubbing when pressed.
After soldering everything back.

As a result, I saved on acoustics 2600 RUR

Video (click to play).

Loudspeaker repair video

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