Modern anti-lock braking systems (ABS) have long ceased to be a sign of an elite car - they are installed on most new cars coming off the assembly line. While this useful piece of equipment is quite reliable, it still has a number of problem points that can affect smooth operation. The most vulnerable elements of the ABS are the wheel speed sensors located on the vehicle's hubs.
The ABS sensor is an inductor paired with a toothed disc, which is also mounted on the hub. Together they measure the speed at which the wheel is spinning. The first symptom of a device malfunction will be the signal of a warning lamp located on the dashboard of the car.
When the system is stable, the controller goes out a few seconds after the engine is started. If the indicator stays on or starts blinking chaotically when the car is moving, anti-lock brakes require immediate intervention.
The appearance of any of these symptoms requires a complete system diagnosis. Note that the help of car service technicians in solving this issue is completely optional. There are various ways to test an ABS sensor, and in most cases it is easy to do the job yourself.
As a result of device diagnostics, it is possible to determine in which sensor assembly there is damage. If the tester readings tend to zero, this indicates a short circuit in the connection wires, "infinity" signals a violation of the integrity of the coil winding. There is an opinion that the repair of the wiring does not cause any problems, but the faulty sensor is easier to simply replace. It is difficult to disagree with the first thought, but the next "point" can be disputed.
The fact is that the cost of some sensors reaches 14-18 thousand rubles, and you will have to wait for their delivery for a long time. Having certain skills, a stock of patience and natural ingenuity, it will be much more useful and faster to repair the device than to pay for a long-awaited expensive order. Note that this advice is only advisory in nature - the final verdict is yours. If the decision to repair is still made, we will be happy to help you to carry it out correctly.
After diagnostics and detection of a faulty element, the device must be dismantled for further repair. The process of removing it is similar to the first stage of measures to replace the ABS sensor and is not particularly difficult.
Attention! Elements can stick to the seat; it takes a lot of patience to remove them from the slot. Professional technicians advise to moisten the metal around the device abundantly with WD-40 liquid and carefully remove the sensor, slowly loosening it.
This element of the sensor will be the object of repair work.
We remove the plastic cover that protects the coil - make a longitudinal cut on its extreme part and remove the cover by prying it with a sharp knife. We wind the winding wire from the coil frame.
In order to rewind the damaged wire, you need to remove the coil cover. The spool is completely cleaned of old wire
We wind a new coil using copper wire of a suitable diameter - for this stage of work, the winding of the RES-8 electrical relay is quite suitable. The process will be much less time consuming if you use a low-power electric drill or screwdriver with speed control to complete it. We wind the maximum number of turns of the wire on the coil and gradually reduce them, bringing the resistance indicator to the desired values (0.92-1.22 kOhm). We pay special attention - the wire used in the work is very thin, and if it breaks, you will have to start the whole process anew.
Having received the necessary resistance, we solder new leads from the stranded wire to the sensor and carefully insulate the coil body. We protect the new winding from moisture by covering it with silicone sealant or wax composition.
We assemble the sensor by restoring the old case (if it is not badly damaged). In case of critical destruction of the shell, you can make it yourself using adhesives based on epoxy resins. We make a new body of the device as follows: we take the shell from any electrolytic capacitor (suitable in size), make a hole in the bottom of it for the coil stem, insert the updated section of the device there and fill in the glue.
The mold for pouring a new coil body can be a capacitor shell.
This is what the new sensor body looks like, made of epoxy glue.
After the epoxy has dried, remove the condenser shell and glue the sensor mount to its original place.
The repair of the sensor is completed, you can mount it on the hub by grinding the new body with sandpaper for a better fit to the seat. When installing a repaired device, be sure to observe the following conditions:
Attention! If the ABS indicator lamp periodically lights up when the car is moving after repairing the sensor, change the phasing of its connection wires.
Note that some sensors produced by the foreign auto industry can be disassembled without a fundamental violation of the integrity of the structure - the upper shell of the part can be removed by pre-heating with a construction hairdryer or blowtorch. An example of repairing such a device is shown in the video.
There shouldn't be any special problems with the issue of replacing or restoring the sensor wiring. For these purposes, any two-core cable of a similar cross-section or two pieces of field wire of the required length will do. In work, it is necessary to use only the soldering method and carefully insulate the joints with heat shrink tubes or electrical tape. Special attention should be paid to the sealing rubber bands, which are located at the points of attachment of the wiring to the body parts - when completely replacing the cord, they should be located in the same place.
When replacing the wire, we install sealing rubber bands at the points of its attachment to the body
Attention! When connecting the wiring to the ABS sensor, take into account that the device has polarity. In the vehicle operating instructions, the color coding of the wires is indicated - on the connector of the part there are exactly the same designations.
In more detail, the process of repairing the ABS sensor wiring is described in the video presented.
VIDEO
Repairing an ABS sensor is a very time-consuming and troublesome task. If you are not distinguished by perseverance and patience, or simply do not have free time, you probably should not get down to business. Well, those who are accustomed to solving all problems on their own and do not want to spend extra money will now easily do this work on their own.
alexkug
vovochka
Yesterday I replaced two ABS rings, front left and rear left. Enough has already been written about the front, so I will not repeat myself, I will dwell in more detail on replacing the rear ring.
After that, we raise the car on a jack higher, the lever goes down. We insert the assembly in the area of the hub and pull it towards ourselves, the second person at this moment removes the shruz from the hub. I must say that the distance is right there.
Hello everyone! Finally, I won the ABS, which haunted me for a long time, since the time of buying a car. There were cod noises, and so on, here's a video of the problem when I was actively looking for what Git wanted from me 🙂
For the money:
As usual, further in the plans:
Good luck to all! Smooth roads! The overhaul of Git is not over yet, ahead of seven positions according to the plan.
And the similarity collapse, you do not need to do something, after this procedure. You disconnected the steering knuckle from the rack, so you need to.
today changed both rings the speedometer does not work and also says abs and ts. What to do next
hello please tell me are these rings sold separately or together with the hub? and one more question after such a procedure, it is necessary to make a descent collapse.
the caliper does not need to be removed. I checked it myself.
I want to disconnect your abs by disconnecting the plug, what will it be?
nothing will work, it will not work and the error will burn abc,
the abs light is on and it does not work what is the reason
Ring 393611 NK
I myself know how to install the ring! The problem is where to buy it? Once I even had to buy a new CV joint, however, Chinese. When another one flew, I decided to restore the old one. He took it off, cleaned it thoroughly, including the place where it was sitting. Then he squeezed the ring with a metal clamp, having previously filled the break with baxit. I greased the seat with the same bakery, put on a ring (it went in quite freely, since it cleaned out all the rust and dirt that had accumulated over the years), carefully put the CV joint back in place, the baksite was drying for a day (fortunately, it was in the summer) and then removed the clamp. By the way, for strength and so that later the ring would not be so susceptible to corrosion, I soaked it completely, along the entire perimeter of the teeth with Baksite. This did not prevent the clamp from being removed. While driving, and ABC has not been burning for two years. And what if there is no place to buy a new ring.
Message K! Mm »11 Jul 2010 22:29
Message mrakus 12 Jul 2010 01:13
here you have a problem. skoko saw shruzov and cars, inizi I didn’t see a broken ABC ring
ksati you glued it on the contrary 😀
Message K! Mm 12 Jul 2010 09:10
Message sky "12 Jul 2010 14:29
Message K! Mm »12 Jul 2010 16:31
Message mrakus »12 Jul 2010 16:52
Message K! Mm "12 Jul 2010 17:48
Message @LEX »13 Jul 2010 09:20
Message K! Mm 13 Jul 2010 09:23
Message @LEX 13 Jul 2010 09:31
Message sky »17 Jul 2010 21:32
Today I glued my rings using this technology). Glue Moment epoxy.
After cleaning the rust from the CV joint and from the ring, it turned out that when fully closed, the ring dangles on the CV joint like an ice hole on this one. In order to somehow center it, I slipped four strips cut from a beer can. On the right, the ring is split into two parts.
Message katalll »17 Jul 2010 21:51
Message K! Mm »17 Jul 2010 22:26
Message Poison_181 »17 Jul 2010 23:05
Message katalll »17 Jul 2010 23:32
Message Poison_181 »17 Jul 2010 23:42
29 teeth on my x16xel, I can't say about other engines, I was looking for it using the engine I put it in place with a hammer, i.e. I put the removed grenade on the table, put the ring with its “rounded” side on the surface, and tapping the ring diametrically opposite, put it in place. The main thing here is not to overdo it, the ring is aluminum. So that is all.
Z. katalll looked at the existential, at the same 29.
Everything happened, no matter how funny, after changing the oil. Changing the oil, I noticed that it was time to change the anthers on the CV joints. Because on the street was already the end of October and "the weather was disgusting", I decided to be repaired in the service. There are no problems, I gave it up, coughed up, took it away, and with a clear conscience began to operate the car. Departure winter, it's time to change the oil. Crawled under the car and what I see. Anthers in perfect condition, but flew off. Those. we can say that they are not at all. It turns out that I left all winter without them and the result was not long in coming. A couple of weeks passed from a slight crunching in corners to crunching on straight lines.
There is only one way out, the store. Having traveled around the most advanced points of sale of auto parts, I realized that there are no grenades in our city. We order and wait. The price of one polishka. Delivery time is two weeks. In order to save a couple of hundred parts, it was decided to buy CV joints for cars without ABS, i.e. the ABS cogwheel was missing. As experienced people said, the old ring easily knocks off and easily fits onto a new grenade. Although, of course, the main reason for buying such hinges is that only these were available from the supplier in the amount of two.
It took about two weeks, a call from the store, "Your grenades have come." I take it to the garage for repairs. Take off the grenade, no problem. The technology has been worked out. Although on Galant I did it for the first time. Removal procedure was successful, drive with a grenade in hand. Now detach the grenade from the drive. Masters recommend shooting down with powerful, clear blows. But if the grenade is ejected, then I prefer to just break the separator with a few hammer blows, which gives access to the retaining ring, or the grinder.As promised, the ABS gear ring came off with a few light blows (do not deform the teeth, if jammed, correct with a file). The epic began when it was time to stuff the ring onto a new hinge. Its inner diameter was clearly less than the diameter of the seat of the hinge itself. Measurements only confirmed this. What to do? Who knows. I decided to put it without a ring. No sooner said than done. I drove off, stopped, and then the whole tidy caught fire like a garland. And ABS, and a handbrake, and even engine control, which scared the most. Faster at the computer and study the forums. Who in what. Buy new grenades, grind the existing ones, hammer and drive and much more. It was previously decided to grind.
In the morning, having reached the garage, I decided to examine the second available new grenade. And then my attention was attracted by the heterogeneity of the metal in the area of the seat. Picking a gap with a knife, I realized that it was some kind of metal ring burned to the seat for the ABS ring (probably to protect it from external damage). Without knowing about the presence of such a ring, it is quite difficult to see it, because everything looks monolithic. Then everything is simple, we knock down this ring, which I called "hell knows what for," and fill in the right one. I change the second grenade, put the ring on the first and go. I didn't even have to reset the errors, everything went out by itself. So, due to the trifle, the repair took not several hours, but several days.
when replacing the CV joint, they removed the abs ring from the old CV joint and put it on a new one. at some point this ring burst.
who will take or who will recommend?
connection vtut, private, 960-133-sorakvosim-dfadfa
like that. diameter about 10cm
if not in the subject, it is better to be silent.
who else will suggest anything? winter is coming soon, without abs it will be bad.
what's the difference? Zaporozhets.
all right. the first one that came across.
what is the exact data?
the teeth are magnetized, will abs work if the exact same ring is there, but not magnetized? Or maybe somehow you can magnetize?
Everything you want to know about Ford Fusion, but did not know where to ask
# 1 Post Sanek770 »21 Nov 2011, 13:40
# 2 Post ANG »21 Nov 2011, 14:01
# 3 Post fidel1970 »21 Nov 2011, 14:43
The main of the existing human pleasures is still considered to be creation! (With)
# 4 Post Sanek770 »21 Nov 2011, 21:31
# 5 Post Sergeysp »21 Nov 2011, 21:51
# 6 Post Sanek770 »21 Nov 2011, 22:09
# 7 Post MeqBeqb »24 Jul 2012, 14:59
# 8 Post fidel1970 »24 Jul 2012, 15:17
The main of the existing human pleasures is still considered to be creation! (With)
# 9 Post MeqBeqb »25 Jul 2012, 08:08
I do not agree with Fidel, the ring built into the bearing on the front hubs, it is put on separately on the rear hubs, the picture of the spare part from above, my question was how does it hold? I'm now slipping (spinning almost freely) on the ring there are still some risks .. for what?
# 10 Message energetic »25 Jul 2012, 10:11
# 11 Message MeqBeqb »25 Jul 2012, 10:27
# 12 Post serg_2007 »16 May 2017, 22:44
I decided to check the rear brake pads.
The ABS lamp does not light up.
# 13 Message SAnat »16 May 2017, 22:50
diagnostics, at least elm327 is there?
Abs rings endure quite serious mechanical damage and work further.
# 14 Message serg_2007 »16 May 2017, 23:07
# 15 Post MakPol »17 May 2017, 08:13
# 16 Post Lexaomega »17 May 2017, 08:59
serg_2007 wrote: I decided to check the rear brake pads.
The ABS lamp does not light up.
# 17 Post serg_2007 »20 May 2017, 21:52
Everything happened, no matter how funny, after changing the oil. Changing the oil, I noticed that it was time to change the anthers on the CV joints. Because on the street was already the end of October and "the weather was disgusting", I decided to be repaired in the service. There are no problems, I gave it up, coughed up, took it away, and with a clear conscience began to operate the car. Departure winter, it's time to change the oil. Crawled under the car and what I see. Anthers in perfect condition, but flew off. Those. we can say that they are not at all. It turns out that I left all winter without them and the result was not long in coming. A couple of weeks passed from a slight crunching in corners to crunching on straight lines.
There is only one way out, the store. Having traveled around the most advanced points of sale of auto parts, I realized that there are no grenades in our city. We order and wait. The price of one polishka. Delivery time is two weeks. In order to save a couple of hundred parts, it was decided to buy CV joints for cars without ABS, i.e. the ABS cogwheel was missing. As experienced people said, the old ring easily knocks off and easily fits onto a new grenade. Although, of course, the main reason for buying such hinges is that only these were available from the supplier in the amount of two.
It took about two weeks, a call from the store, "Your grenades have come." I take it to the garage for repairs. Take off the grenade, no problem. The technology has been worked out. Although on Galant I did it for the first time. Removal procedure was successful, drive with a grenade in hand. Now detach the grenade from the drive. Masters recommend shooting down with powerful, clear blows. But if the grenade is ejected, then I prefer to just break the separator with a few hammer blows, which gives access to the retaining ring, or the grinder. As promised, the ABS gear ring came off with a few light blows (do not deform the teeth, if jammed, correct with a file). The epic began when it was time to stuff the ring onto a new hinge. Its inner diameter was clearly less than the diameter of the seat of the hinge itself. Measurements only confirmed this. What to do? Who knows. I decided to put it without a ring. No sooner said than done. I drove off, stopped, and then the whole tidy caught fire like a garland. And ABS, and a handbrake, and even engine control, which scared the most. Faster at the computer and study the forums. Who in what. Buy new grenades, grind the existing ones, hammer and drive and much more. It was previously decided to grind.
In the morning, having reached the garage, I decided to examine the second available new grenade. And then my attention was attracted by the heterogeneity of the metal in the area of the seat. Picking a gap with a knife, I realized that it was some kind of metal ring burned to the seat for the ABS ring (probably to protect it from external damage). Without knowing about the presence of such a ring, it is quite difficult to see it, because everything looks monolithic. Then everything is simple, we knock down this ring, which I called "hell knows what for," and fill in the right one. I change the second grenade, put the ring on the first and go. I didn't even have to reset the errors, everything went out by itself. So, due to the trifle, the repair took not several hours, but several days.
In general, the situation I had was this 🙂 I began to prepare the car for winter in advance, the main idea was to increase the ground clearance by spacers under the struts, everything worked out well :) the spacers got up well, the new tires 14R 185/70 also contributed. But when everything was collected, it turned out that the ABS sensor on the rear left wheel had cut off. Well, today I gathered my thoughts, bought a bottle of beer, I took it off and brought it home, carefully cutting the insulation at the input to the sensor, the wire rang with a “chain”, the wire was intact, from the connector to the sensor, I had to break the sensor itself and look for the reason in it.Since the sensor is completely cast, I used a hacksaw for metal, carefully sawed it in a circle, and tore off the back wall, it turned out that there really was a break inside, the wires broke and stretched out in isolation, and both! Digging around with a knife, I found antennae coming out of the sensor and soldered to them on a new wire, just in case I remembered the color in advance, after all these simple actions I filled the back part with glue from a thermo-gun, having prepared the formwork from electrical tape in advance 🙂 cut the edges for beauty, and put it on car, I drive and rejoice 🙂 the resistance on the sensor is 1.2 kOhm as well as from the right wheel.
All rights belong to the author of the publication:
Any owner of Toyota Corolla Spacio, Corolla Verso or just a car enthusiast can join our Internet car club. Here you can get to know better, chat with teammates and post contact information about yourself.
Such registration does not oblige you to anything at all, but it gives you a number of additional opportunities. learn more about it right now .
Send us your stories about self-repairs.
Share your repair and maintenance experience with your teammates!
We will definitely publish all articles and point you as authors!
Passed: 41 Age: 41
Passed: 35 Age: 35
Passed: 50 Age: 50
There are 17 birthday people in total.
Oynatyshty basgaru elementtern kursetu
And the similarity collapse, you do not need to do something, after this procedure. You disconnected the steering knuckle from the rack, so you need to.
today changed both rings the speedometer does not work and also says abs and ts. What to do next
hello please tell me are these rings sold separately or together with the hub? and one more question after such a procedure, it is necessary to make a descent collapse.
the caliper does not need to be removed. I checked it myself.
I want to disconnect your abs by disconnecting the plug, what will it be?
nothing will work, it will not work and the error will burn abc,
the abs light is on and it does not work what is the reason
Ring 393611 NK
I myself know how to install the ring! The problem is where to buy it? Once I even had to buy a new CV joint, however, Chinese. When another one flew, I decided to restore the old one. He took it off, cleaned it thoroughly, including the place where it was sitting. Then he squeezed the ring with a metal clamp, having previously filled the break with baxit. I greased the seat with the same bakery, put on a ring (it went in quite freely, since it cleaned out all the rust and dirt that had accumulated over the years), carefully put the CV joint back in place, the baksite was drying for a day (fortunately, it was in the summer) and then removed the clamp. By the way, for strength and so that later the ring would not be so susceptible to corrosion, I soaked it completely, along the entire perimeter of the teeth with Baksite. This did not prevent the clamp from being removed. While driving, and ABC has not been burning for two years. And what if there is no place to buy a new ring.
qoshqar dervishov أشهر قبل
Yura Kuzmenkov 3 أشهر قبل
And the similarity collapse, you do not need to do something, after this procedure. You disconnected the steering knuckle from the rack, so you need to.
Rashid Ramazanov سنوات قبل
today changed both rings the speedometer does not work and also says abs and ts. What to do next
Rashid Ramazanov سنوات قبل
Rashid Ramazanov سنوات قبل
hello please tell me are these rings sold separately or together with the hub? and one more question after such a procedure, it is necessary to make a descent collapse.
the caliper does not need to be removed. I checked it myself.
I want to disconnect your abs by disconnecting the plug, what will it be?
nothing will work, it will not work and the error will burn abc,
viktor grigorenko سنوات قبل
the abs light is on and it does not work what is the reason
Makarov Evgeniy 2 سنوات قبل
Ring 393611 NK 76704 mapco 29 teeth, height 11.5, diameter 66.8
Igor Denisov 2 سنوات قبل
I myself know how to install the ring! The problem is where to buy it? Once I even had to buy a new CV joint, however, Chinese. When another one flew, I decided to restore the old one.He took it off, cleaned it thoroughly, including the place where it was sitting. Then he squeezed the ring with a metal clamp, having previously filled the break with baxit. I greased the seat with the same bakery, put on a ring (it went in quite freely, since it cleaned out all the rust and dirt that had accumulated over the years), carefully put the CV joint back in place, the baksite was drying for a day (fortunately, it was in the summer) and then removed the clamp. By the way, for strength and so that later the ring would not be so susceptible to corrosion, I soaked it completely, along the entire perimeter of the teeth with Baksite. This did not prevent the clamp from being removed. While driving, and ABC has not been burning for two years. And what if there is no place to buy a new ring.
Pavel Voronov 2 سنوات قبل
Cotter pin, buddy - this is called a cotter pin.
And in truth, an interesting video, perhaps I will subscribe!
Alexander Onatsky 3 سنوات قبل
+ Alexander Onatsky
Erbol Sadykov 3 سنوات قبل
salam! I'm about IAC Opel Vectra b 1.6. I cleared the IAC on this link, as it was written there. started, rolled, 2 hours was normal, but later disappeared idle. did not know what to do, then pulled the cable. one problem, the check lights up at idle, and when you go at speeds it goes out. what could it be? did i do the right thing? thanks in advance
Makarov Evgeniy 2 سنوات قبل
There was a problem, the revolutions began to fall at idle, they advised everywhere to clean this fucking pxx. I cleaned the problem, it didn't go away, it turned out that the exhaust gas recirculation valve was dirty. He took it off, filled it in with a water bottle, put it back - all the rules. On more than one forum there was no information on this, only about the throttle, pxx, egr, etc. So about this comb, the speedometer stopped working, the forums advise changing the whole hub, like there a gap is formed between the sensor and the BEARING.
+ Erbol Sadykov Maybe you put it back together incorrectly?
Denis Dikarev 3 سنوات قبل
How to understand from which side to change the ring?
Only by lifting the car on a jack and inspecting the rings from both sides.
more video about verification !! thanks
And my ABS light never goes out, is there also a problem in this ring?
+ Sergey Salomatin Yes, or in the sensor. Check the rings first; they are cheaper;)
In vain I shot the amort! Then it will be necessary to do the disorder. It was possible to unscrew the bolt of the ball joint and that's it.
there is no collapse there. there everything fits tightly without backlash and that's it.
Dmitry Valera 3 سنوات قبل
have you ever filmed a grenade on ovb? I was shocked, there it was necessary to unclench the locking ring, PPC, because of the lithol it was not visible, I kept on and on until prompted)) like this, I changed the boot
Dmitry Valera 3 سنوات قبل
+ Maxim Ivanitskiy would have known the purchase - he would have lived in Sochi :)
Maxim Ivanitskiy 3 سنوات قبل
I have the same on ova, and there is no lithol, but a special grease for the CV joint, I had a new one with a boot. remove the old samzku then you can see the retaining ring. then I filled in new grease and that's it
so i must be scared next time when im driving with you? .. i’m joking bro 😉 great video!
In general, the situation I had was this 🙂 I began to prepare the car for winter in advance, the main idea was to increase the ground clearance by spacers under the struts, everything worked out well :) the spacers got up well, the new tires 14R 185/70 also contributed. But when everything was collected, it turned out that the ABS sensor on the rear left wheel had cut off. Well, today I gathered my thoughts, bought a bottle of beer, I took it off and brought it home, carefully cutting the insulation at the input to the sensor, the wire rang with a “chain”, the wire was intact, from the connector to the sensor, I had to break the sensor itself and look for the reason in it. Since the sensor is completely cast, I used a hacksaw for metal, carefully sawed it in a circle, and tore off the back wall, it turned out that there really was a break inside, the wires broke and stretched out in isolation, and both! Digging around with a knife, I found antennae coming out of the sensor and soldered to them on a new wire, just in case I remembered the color in advance, after all these simple actions I filled the back part with glue from a thermo-gun, having prepared the formwork from electrical tape in advance 🙂 cut the edges for beauty, and put it on car, I drive and rejoice 🙂 the resistance on the sensor is 1.2 kOhm as well as from the right wheel.
All rights belong to the author of the publication:
Any owner of Toyota Corolla Spacio, Corolla Verso or just a car enthusiast can join our Internet car club. Here you can get to know better, chat with teammates and post contact information about yourself.
Such registration does not oblige you to anything at all, but it gives you a number of additional opportunities. learn more about it right now .
Send us your stories about self-repairs.
Share your repair and maintenance experience with your teammates!
We will definitely publish all articles and point you as authors!
Passed: 41 Age: 41
Passed: 35 Age: 35
Passed: 50 Age: 50
Video (click to play).
There are 17 birthday people in total.
