DIY compressor repair berkut r17

Berkut car compressors are currently produced in the following modifications: R14, R15, R17, R20 and R24. Model names correspond to the radius of the inflatable wheels in inches. The gradation is due to the difference in the power of the compressors, and, accordingly, the price. The simplest R14 compressor for 14 '' wheels costs about $ 55. A model for R20 jeeps costs about $ 175.

The most powerful top model, the R24, has an enviable output of 98 liters per minute. The pump develops a maximum pressure of 14 atmospheres. With the help of pumps Berkut R20 and R24 it is possible to carry out small airbrushing works. In addition to it, a small 10-liter receiver is sold.

The device of automobile compressors Berkut

All Berkut compressors, regardless of modification, are produced according to the same piston-type scheme. No lubrication required. The compressor is driven by a DC motor. The compressors are equipped with double protection against short circuit and overheating. The crankshaft, crankcase and cylinder are made of steel. Unlike many other compressors, an aluminum piston is used on the Berkuts, made together with a connecting rod. The design is a bit unusual. There is no articulated connection between the piston and the connecting rod, therefore, the piston, which is small in height, tilts together with the connecting rod. The advantage of this layout is its simplicity. And with a decrease in the cylinder height, it was possible to reduce the mass of the compressor as a whole.

The gap between the piston and the cylinder bore is compensated by a special Teflon O-ring. The result is a simple and cost-effective design. Air intake in the cylinder comes from a cavity located under the piston. The cavity communicates with the external space through a valve. An intake valve is made in the piston itself. It is a hole, which is covered with a special plate-spring. The plate, when the piston moves upward with an increase in excess pressure in the cylinder, tightly overlaps the inlet. Then the intake valve located in the cylinder head opens. And under the influence of pressure through the pumping hose, a portion of air enters the external environment. The voltage of all models is 12 V. Working temperature is from - 30 to +80 degrees. All compressors are equipped with a high precision double scale pressure gauge and an integral fuse.

Equipment of pumps Berkut

Berkut compressors have been designed in such a way that they can be used for a variety of tasks. And not just for pumping the wheels. For this, specialized adapter fittings can be connected to the compressors. They are supplied with the compressor. Now, leaving for nature, you can easily pump up inflatable boats, sports equipment, inflatable rings, mattresses, a swimming pool, etc. The thermostat will not allow the compressor to overheat if you turned it on and for some reason forgot about it. For ease of portability, the Berkut compressors are equipped with convenient rucksack bags.

Berkut R14 is additionally equipped with a compact attachment holder and a bright LED flashlight. R15 - a quick-detachable nozzle on the wheel valve that allows you to regulate the pressure. The R17 model is equipped with a 7.5 meter universal extension hose and a Deflator drain valve. R20 and R24 - in addition to the universal extension hose and the Deflator drain valve, they have an air filter.

Digital automobile pressure gauges Berkut Digital PRO, Digital 4 × 4 and high-precision pressure gauge with deflator Berkut ADG-031/032 are sold as accessories. The last pressure gauge will especially appeal to the owners of jeeps, overcoming obstacles on half-flat wheels.

Specifications

I disassembled my Berkut P20.

The thing is that my compressor was operated under the hood, so in the summer there was a lot of water in the fords. In winter, in the cold, he just jammed because of the ice. The situation was aggravated by the fact that water killed the connecting rod bearing and the armature bearing.

The compressor is easy to disassemble. I extruded the bearings from the connecting rod and the cover, easily picked up analogs in the car market and pressed them back. The bearing on the connecting rod is nailed.

Cylinder seizure is a consequence of the compressor running without a filter. I think to grind off part of the cylinder and press in an aluminum sleeve. But that will be later.

Collected everything for sealant. I used silicone grease in the piston, from syringes.

There are situations when the air compressor, peacefully rattling the engine in the corner of the garage, starts to malfunction, or even turns off altogether. And at this moment, as luck would have it, there is a need for it. Do not be afraid, after studying theoretical information, repairing a compressor with your own hands will not seem like something unattainable.

The main purpose of air compressor units is to create a continuous, uniform jet of compressed air. The dense gas stream is then driven by various pneumatic tools. These can be airbrushes, tire inflation guns, wrenches, cutting machines, pneumatic chisels, nailers, and more. In the minimum configuration, the compressor unit is equipped with a supercharger (an engine that creates an air flow) and a receiver (a container for storing compressed gas).

Compressors with a piston system electric motor have found the greatest application in car repair shops. In the supercharger crankcase, the transfer rod moves along the axis back and forth, giving the oscillatory moment to the reciprocating movement of the piston with O-rings. The bypass valve system located in the cylinder head works in such a way that when the piston moves downward, air is taken from the inlet pipe, and upward - it is returned to the outlet.

The gas flow is directed to the receiver, where it is compacted. Due to its design, the blower produces an uneven air stream. Which is not applicable to spray gun use. A kind of condenser (receiver) saves the situation, which smooths out the pressure pulsations, giving out a uniform flow at the outlet.

A more complex design of the compressor unit implies the attachment of additional equipment designed to provide automatic operation, dehumidification and humidification. And if in the case of a simple execution it is easy to localize a malfunction, then the complication of the equipment execution complicates the search. The following are the most common faults and remedies for the most common piston-type compressed gas systems.

To make it easier to find the problem, all defects can be classified by the nature of the malfunction:

• Compressor unit blower does not start
• Compressor motor hums but does not pump air or fills air reservoir too slowly
• At start-up, the thermal protection circuit breaker is triggered or the mains fuse is blown out.
• When the blower is turned off, the pressure in the compressed air tank drops
• The thermal protection circuit breaker is periodically triggered
• Exhaust air contains a lot of moisture
• Engine vibrates violently
• Compressor runs intermittently
• Air flow is consumed below normal

Let's consider all the causes of the problems and how to fix them.

If the engine does not start and does not hum, then the supply voltage is not applied to it.First of all, using an indicator screwdriver, check the presence of "zero" and "phase", as well as the reliability of the plug-to-socket connection. In case of poor contact, measures are taken for a tighter fit. If there is 220 V at the input of the circuit, the fuses of the compressor unit look.

Failed ones are replaced by passive protection devices of the same rating as defective ones. In no case are hot-melt inserts designed for a higher electric current allowed. If the fuse blows again, you should find out the cause of the failure - probably a short circuit at the input of the circuit.

The second reason why the unit does not start is that the pressure control relay in the receiver is faulty or the level settings are out of order. To check, gas is released from the cylinder and the supercharger is tested. If the engine is running, the relay is reset. Otherwise, the defective part is replaced.

Also, the engine will not start when the thermal overload circuit breaker is triggered. This device turns off the power supply circuit of the winding of the electrical device in case of overheating of the piston system, fraught with seizure of the motor. Let the blower cool down for at least 15 minutes. After this time has elapsed, restart it.

With an underestimated mains voltage, the electric motor does not master the scrolling of the axis, while it will hum. With this malfunction, first of all, we check the voltage level in the network using a multimeter (it must be at least 220 V).

If the voltage is normal, then the pressure in the receiver is probably too high, and the piston does not overpower the pushing of air. In this case, manufacturers recommend setting the “AUTO-OFF” automatic switch to the “OFF” position for 15 seconds and then moving it to the “AUTO” position. If this does not help, then the pressure control switch in the receiver is faulty or the bypass (check) valve is clogged.

You can try to eliminate the last drawback by removing the cylinder head and cleaning the channels. Replace the defective relay or send it to a specialized center for repair.

Compressor start-up is accompanied by blown fuse or activation of automatic thermal protection

This malfunction occurs if the installed fuse is below the recommended rated power or the supply network is overloaded. In the first case, we check the compliance of the permissible currents, in the second, we disconnect part of the consumers from the electric main.

A more serious cause of the malfunction is incorrect operation of the voltage relay or breakdown of the bypass valve. We bypass the relay contacts according to the scheme, if the engine is running, then the actuator is faulty. In this case, it is more advisable to contact an official service center for technical support or replace the relay yourself.

A drop in compressed air pressure indicates that there is a leak somewhere in the system. Risk areas are: high pressure air line, piston head check valve or receiver outlet cock. We check the entire pipeline with a soapy solution for air leaks. We wrap the detected defects with sealing tape.

The drain cock may leak if not properly closed or defective. If it is closed all the way, and the soapy solution is bubbling on the spout, then we change this part. When screwing in a new one, do not forget to wind up the fum tape on the thread.

In the case of tightness of the air line and the exhaust valve, we conclude that the compressor control valve is not working correctly. For further work, be sure to bleed all the compressed air from the receiver! Next, we continue to repair the compressor with our own hands, disassembling the cylinder head.

If there is dirt or mechanical damage to the bypass valve, we clean it and try to fix the defects. If the malfunction is not eliminated, then we replace the control valve.

This defect occurs when the power supply voltage is too low, the air flow is poor, or the room temperature is too high. We measure the voltage in the network using a multimeter; it must be at least the lower limit of the range recommended by the manufacturer.

Poor air flow into the discharge system is due to a clogged inlet filter. The filter should be replaced or washed according to the unit's maintenance manual. The piston engine is air-cooled and often overheats when in a poorly ventilated area. The problem is solved by moving the compressor unit to a room with good ventilation.

This situation occurs under the following conditions:

• Large accumulation of moisture in the receiver
• Air intake filter dirty
• The humidity in the room of the compressor unit is increased

Moisture in the output stream of compressed air is fought by the following methods:

• Drain excess fluid from the cylinder regularly
• Clean or replace the filter element
• Move the compressor unit to a room with drier air or install additional filter-moisture separators

In general, piston engines are prone to high vibration. But, if the previously relatively quiet compressor unit begins to rumble, there is a high probability that the engine mounting screws are loosened or the material of the vibration cushions is worn out. This malfunction is eliminated by pulling all fasteners in a circle and replacing the polymer vibration isolators.

Interruptions in the operation of the engine can be caused by incorrect operation of the pressure control switch or too intensive extraction of compressed air.

Excessive gas consumption occurs due to a discrepancy between the compressor capacity and the power consumption. Therefore, before buying a new pneumatic tool, carefully study its characteristics and air consumption per unit of time.

Consumers should not take more than 70% of the compressor capacity. If the power of the blower with a margin overlaps the requests of the pneumatic tools, then the pressure switch is faulty. We either repair it or replace it with a new one.

This malfunction occurs as a result of a gas leak in the high pressure system or a clogged air intake filter. Air leakage can be minimized by pulling all butt joints and wrapping them with sealing tape.

Sometimes it happens that when draining condensate from the receiver, they forget to completely close the drain valve, which also leads to a gas leak. This problem is easy to solve - by tightly closing the valve. If the dust filter is clogged, clean it or, even better, replace it with a new one.

Most of the above malfunctions can be avoided by correctly carrying out the first start-up and running-in of the mechanisms, as well as performing regular routine maintenance.

In order for the device to function properly for a long time, the recommended maintenance should be started at the initial stages of operation. Experts recommend the following actions from the date of purchase:

Timely observance of these simple requirements will keep the mechanism in good condition. Such a time-consuming procedure as repairing a compressor with your own hands will be required extremely rarely. Proper grounding will avoid problems with the electrical part of the device. Regular replacement of oil and cleaning filters will prevent premature wear of rubbing parts.

In this test we are looking at compressors with an average capacity level of 40-50l / min.

This is one of the most popular types of car air compressors. This class of compressors is aimed at a wide category of users - from owners of sedans and crossovers to owners of full-size SUVs, and is in demand among owners of light commercial vehicles.

The design of medium-capacity automobile compressors is generally more reliable than that of their low-capacity counterparts.Also, compressors for crossovers are often more convenient to use due to direct connection to the battery - there is no load on the on-board electrical network of the car, the compressor works somewhat faster than when connected through the cigarette lighter socket. The only drawback of such switching is that you have to imagine where the battery is located in the car; in some modern cars it is not so easy to find it. In this case, models of medium-capacity compressors with connection to a cigarette lighter will come to the rescue.

In our time, it has become very rare to equip even heavy all-wheel drive vehicles with full-profile tires (80 percent or more of the treadmill width), and the trend towards the use of low-profile tires is becoming more common. And in the class of sedans, in fact, you cannot find tires with a profile height of more than 65%.

In theory, such a tire holds less air, but in practice there is now a steady trend towards an increase in the overall wheel size on all vehicle classes. In addition to the aesthetic appearance, this allows for better running smoothness, and in some cases also improves efficiency. However, with an increase in the size of the wheel, the volume of air in the tire also increases, even if it is of a low profile. The importance of following the recommendations for adjusting the pressure in low-profile tires in accordance with the actual load, especially in the conditions of the road network outside large cities, is a guarantee of a long and trouble-free operation of a wheel with a low-profile tire. After all, replacing a tire (and often repairing or replacing a disc) when meeting a good pit on the asphalt turns out to be quite overhead.

Crossovers also feature large wheels. There is not so much a tendency to a decrease in the profile and a pronounced tendency to an increase in the width of the tire. As a result, with a similar diameter, a crossover wheel can hold twice as much air as a sedan wheel.

With full-size jeeps, the situation is aggravated - the size of the wheels, both in diameter and in width, increases even more, which increases the volume of air in the tire. And if the tire profile is close to full (a fairly common situation with off-road models), then there may be as much air in one wheel as in all four of a small car.

Although statistics show that the majority of crossovers and SUVs - about 90% - never leave paved roads, the remaining 10% do so with great imagination and enthusiasm.

Hunters, fishermen, ethnographers and mushroom pickers, lovers of auto tourism and outdoor enthusiasts - in general, all those motorists who prefer to operate off-road vehicles for their intended purpose - a large audience of users of medium-capacity compressors.

Typically, these users have a mid-range car compressor not as a fashion accessory, but as a work tool. Reception with lowering the pressure in the wheels to 1.2. 0.8 atmospheres allows you to significantly improve the cross-country ability of an all-wheel drive vehicle. In many cases, this allows you to get by with one set of All Terrain wheels or, as they are called in everyday life, AT, both for everyday use of the car on paved roads and for off-road excursions.

Also, for outdoor enthusiasts, adapters for connecting a car compressor to air mattresses and boats are useful. Although inflation is not very fast, it is still much more convenient than fiddling with a frog foot pump.

Drivers of light commercial vehicles are also frequent users of medium-capacity compressors - the need to fully inflate 4-6 wheels is not often, but a small pressure adjustment according to the actual load is a fairly common situation.

And cases with a puncture of a wheel and repair on the spot on their own are a fairly common situation in the case of commercial transport. Punctures are more common due to the high mileage of vehicles of this class, and on-site repairs have become easily possible with the proliferation of self-vulcanizing harnesses for tire puncture repair. For repairs, you don't even need to remove the wheel from the car - just determine the puncture site, install a tourniquet and after 5 minutes you can inflate the wheel to working pressure. A mid-range car compressor is perfect for these situations.

As we can see, medium-capacity compressors are a fairly common and demanded tool, whose versatility deservedly leads to popularity among a wide range of motorists.

The tests were carried out in a closed room at an air temperature of +18 degrees.

A stationary stabilized power supply was used as a power source for the test, which provides a stable voltage in all operating modes of the compressors.

The noise level was measured at a distance of 1 meter from the compressor.

The time was measured by a stopwatch, the readings were rounded to the nearest whole seconds.

As a test wheel. there was an iron receiver with a volume of 20 liters. This roughly corresponds to the volume of a 175 / 65R13 tire. The size may seem rather “small displacement”, but all the results correlate perfectly with each other, due to the fact that during testing the metal receiver does not acquire additional elasticity due to heating and does not stretch in size due to the frequent excess of the recommended pressure.

The time of pumping up to a pressure of 1 to 3 atmospheres was checked during one operation of the compressor. Intermediate values ​​were noted without stopping. The maximum pressure in the test is 3 atmospheres, which is more than is usually required for a real tire, but indicative of the ability to develop high pressure.

Inflating from 0.8 to 2 atmospheres - simulation of “off-road” operating conditions.

The noise level was measured at a distance of 1 meter from the compressor operating under load.

The current consumed by the compressor during operation was measured two times - at idle, when only the standard hose was connected to the compressor, and during pumping up to maximum pressure. The maximum values ​​are taken into account.

The accuracy of the manometer readings was checked at three pressures of 1, 2 and 3 atmospheres. This allows not only to reveal the presence of an error of the standard manometer, but also to determine its linearity.

It used to be 45, this is what we pour into pistons for our customers. Now the line seems to have expanded.

It used to be 45, this is what we pour into pistons for our customers. Now the line seems to have expanded.

Apparently I haven't tried it. the link to the oil-free compressor is also about nothing. This is a compressor special, “.. where contact of oil with the final product is not allowed”.
Performance is generally very low, only enough for a wrench, or even not. And the top models will cost money for a wagon and a small cart.

For example, the smallest compressor from the link costs 112,000 re. with a capacity of 180 liters per minute.

Hello friends! Today we will disassemble and repair a Chinese automobile compressor. One day, my boss's car compressor for tire inflation stopped pumping. Just does not turn on and that's it. I had to disassemble. It is dangerous to call the company of this Chinese compressor - the frighteningly powerful Runway Racing, which roughly means "Raceway". I wonder what races with such a compressor the chief is going to do? In general, we disassemble. We unscrew the four screws, which cannot be pulled out in any way - of course the wells for them cracked from the shaking.

Inside we see a simple structure - a motor with a gearbox and a cylinder with a piston... Everything seems to be soldered and everything is in place. To get it all out it takes unscrew moree four screws.

The engine is of course powered by 12 volts, model RS-540A.

But I was stunned when I even found on him specification - 24,000 rpm no load - impressive.

Necessarily we check all soldered contacts. Everyone knows that soldering at vibrations of different frequencies elementary flies off or microcracks appear. This shaking often occurs in a car on a gravel road.

But the malfunction was hidden under the cambric of the wire coming to power switch... The wires were kept on insulation for some time, but there was no more contact. As a result, pulling it harder when disassembling the compressor, it fell off. We solder it in place - do not spare flux and solder - the contact must be mechanically reliable. We check and solder the second wire and assemble the compressor in reverse order.

Such a compressor from China is pumping very slowly and noisily. It's better not to take him to the races - you will come last - that's for sure. Pump up one wheel for 1 atm. takes about 1 minute.

Actually, of the electrical reasons to repair a Chinese automobile compressor, the most important are torn wires, non-working buttons and a short circuit of the motor winding. There is not much to fix in them - only the mechanics remain.

If the plastic is cracked or the screws have fallen off, then epoxy resin helps well, with which you can beautifully glue the compressor case. I recommend this two-part epoxy resin for bonding plastics.

Successful repairs and success in all your endeavors!
The Solder Master is with you.

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In the fall, I bought this miracle (Berkut R17), I decided that its performance would be enough for our Niva wheels.
And there is a place under the hood where it can be permanently installed (the modest dimensions of the compressor will allow).

Like everything else needs some work

It only worked for about an hour, and there are already seizures on the cylinder.

... from raw piston edges

The piston was carefully processed with fine sandpaper and greased with plastic silicone grease. I wanted to lubricate it with LITOL, but changed my mind because the split piston ring is made of black plastic, which feels like a secondary plastic to the touch.
The engine armature and connecting rod rotate on sealed ball bearings.

It remains to wait for the warming and put it under the hood

Compressor selection BERKUT R17 versus BERKUT R20 for pumping 255/85 R16

Message Valery » 16.09.2016 08:52

• - Maximum current consumption: 18 A
• - Maximum pressure: 12 atm (kg / cm2)
• - Time of continuous work: 40 min
• - Productivity: 55 l / min
• - Dimensions: 172x93x159 mm
• - Weight: 3.5 kg
• - Price 4450 rubles.

• - Maximum current consumption: 30 A
• - Maximum pressure: 14 atm (kg / cm2)
• - Continuous working time: 60 min
• - Productivity: 72 l / min
• - Dimensions: 286x102x178 mm
• - Weight: 5.2 kg
• - The price is 7250 rubles.

[*] + delivery via Business lines (

BERKUT R17 likes the price and dimension.
Can the savings be spent on beer or is it not worth it?
Who pumps / inflates / stuffs what?
Who drove BERKUT products to failure?
Maybe someone else needs in Kaliningrad - delivery of 2 pcs. will be cheaper!

Warranty obligations GOLDEN EAGLE before the Owner of the product are not affected by legal rights under the current legislation of the Russian Federation governing trade in consumer goods.
GOLDEN EAGLE warrants to the Owner that, within the established warranty period, an authorized service center (SC) will, within a commercially reasonable period, eliminate material, design and workmanship defects free of charge by repairing or replacing Products that have failed due to the manufacturer's fault.
The owner has the right to present warranty claims related to defects in the Products, spare parts, and accessories included in the kit, only within the warranty periods established for them and subject to the rules of operation.
In order to avoid misunderstandings, please carefully study the instructions for use of the Products, the terms of warranty obligations, and check the correctness of filling out the warranty card.
Product warranty period GOLDEN EAGLE is calculated from the date of the original purchase of the Products by the first ultimate Owner.

The warranty period is: 12 (twelve) months for car compressors, accessories and accessories included in the kit.

Products are delivered to the SC by the forces and at the expense of the Owner, except for cases provided for by the current legislation and upon presentation of the Owner's request.
The established warranty period does not apply to spare parts if they are replaced during warranty repairs and is considered equal to the warranty period for the product itself.
The specialists of the authorized SC independently determine how to repair the equipment and / or replace its parts. In this case, all replaced parts of the equipment remain at the disposal of the authorized SC.

This warranty is not valid in the following cases:

1. Violations of the rules of operation, storage and transportation; use of the Products for other purposes; incorrect connection to power supplies; careless or careless attitude, etc .;
2. Mechanical damage, disconnection of electrical connections, ingress of liquid and / or foreign objects, etc.;
3. Damage resulting from external mechanical impact, as well as the impact of external factors: fires, flooding, natural phenomena and natural disasters, domestic and wild animals, rodents, insects, etc.;
4. Natural wear and tear of parts and assemblies, as well as malfunctions resulting from the continued operation of the product with damaged parts and assemblies;
5. Carrying out repair work, modification and maintenance not in authorized organizations and SC.
6. Use during the warranty period of non-branded spare parts and accessories not installed or recommended by the manufacturer;
7. Consumables (lubricants, gels, batteries, etc., which have a limited service life that differs from the warranty period of the main product).

Attention: This program applies to BERKUT automotive compressors produced in 2011 and later. (see the factory mark - batch number).

All BERKUT automotive compressors meet the requirements of technical reliability and maintainability. In this regard, BERKUT offers the Owner to use the free service of maintenance, repair and control of the technical condition of the product in the post-warranty period. Only spare parts that are required to carry out qualified repairs are paid for.

All work on the program LIFETIME-TECH carried out only in an authorized service center. The products are delivered to the SC by the forces and at the expense of the Owner.

For spare parts, in case of their replacement, SC gives a guarantee from 3 to 12 months. The specialists of the authorized SC independently determine how to repair the equipment and / or replace its parts. In this case, all replaced parts of the equipment remain at the disposal of the authorized SC.
________
* - Please note that in case of termination of the release of certain models of BERKUT products, the manufacturer has the right to limit the duration of the special program, as well as amend the service regulations without prior notice.

Photos of the installation of the golden eagle under the hood are mine. I installed it myself. But the important point is that only the R17 golden eagle can fit there normally. R20 won't stand up. And if you want to take a receiver, it's better to have R20.

I also thought about the button, but as an option I just thought of winding a wire to the hose and attaching the button right near the end of the hose (in front of the hose, in this context, it is connected to the pump). And I don’t like this option, so I don’t use it. I usually pump the wheels, turn off the compressor and bleed them to the desired atmospheres.

And then, in practice, you don't need a pump as often as I thought.

Yur, I don't know. I found 2 fittings with the same thread. They fit both the compressor and the valve block (where the compressor tube enters the block with a corner. You just need to unscrew it and screw the union. Also in the compressor. By the way, you can leave the compressor hose in place .there is still a plug.that if you unscrew it, then the fitting and you can screw it in. make also a pumping system for the wheels.

and where are these 12 thousand compressors distributed? tell the place.

put 20, connected, everything works just fine, though noisy.
when I redo it and install it on vibration dampers - I will post pictures
for the idea THANKS.

it remains to sort out the valve block, but I do not know where to order the rubber bands (sealing) on ​​the Internet, the whole set with delivery.
tell me if anyone ordered

Hi, I bought a rubber band for the compressor here rover-renovations.com

connect to the standard ones that are in the box or immediately from the fuse and relay block and ground

if connected to the relay and fuse box, then immediately to the wire of the C176 connector (. The wire DO NOT CUT.), departing from the contact No. 7.
below are pictures from the manual.

mass - any, but best of all to the wire from the "negative" terminal of the battery - it is just attached to the body next to the fuse box

By the way!
my muffler burned out - the pipe burned out at the junction (tee) in front of the last banks (above the rear axle) and began to emit exhaust gases into the gap between the frame beam and the body.
In principle, it is not very scary and we can say that it is not the topic. BUT exactly along the frame beam there are tubes to the right rear cushion and to the receiver. and then their hot exhaust gases melted and they burst.
At first I decided that the pillow was right. but when I turned off its relay on the connector (to raise the rear left airbag and at least drive it by 3), then the hissing continued.
As a result, when I picked it up and climbed from below, I figured it out.
While repairing, I decided not to leave the tubes there, but led them directly to the receiver along the transverse amplifier of the body in the area of ​​the brake drum, and hid the tubes in a corrugated metal hose.
The most important thing is that in the process I decided to realize my old idea and brought the air outlet from the receiver into the trunk (next to the spare wheel in the niche).
I used a tee on the tube near the receiver, then I led it along the frame to the spare wheel niche, drilled a hole and connected it to the usual “mother for air” connector (with a valve naturally) - as a result, now ANY pneumatic device can be connected in the trunk as to a stationary Compressor

Good luck to everyone!
and watch the car. he is finicky. but Cool.