DIY Mazda 6 gg air conditioner compressor repair

Mazda 6. REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF AIR CONDITIONING COMPRESSOR

1. Remove the refrigerant from the air conditioning system (see "Removing refrigerant from the air conditioning system", page 322). Place the vehicle on the inspection ditch. Disconnect the wire from the negative terminal of the storage battery.

3. Remove the accessory drive belt (see "Checking and replacing the accessory drive belt", page 81).
4. Check the condition of the drive belt. NOTE

Replace the belt if upon inspection you find:

- traces of wear on the toothed surface, cracks, undercuts, folds or peeling of the fabric from the rubber;

- cracks, folds, grooves or bulges on the outer surface of the belt;

- loosening or delamination on the end surfaces of the belt;

- traces of oil on the belt surface.

A belt with traces of engine oil on any of its surfaces must be replaced, as oil quickly destroys rubber. The cause of the oil getting on the belt (usually due to the leakage of the engine shaft oil seals) must be eliminated immediately.

9. . and disconnect the compressor magnetic clutch connector from the wiring harness.

11. Remove the bolts from the mounting holes and remove the A / C compressor.

12. Install the compressor and all removed parts in the reverse order of removal.

Only open the process flange plugs on the new compressor immediately before connecting the piping.

When installing new pipe flange O-rings, be sure to lubricate them with A / C compressor oil.
13. Make sure that the V-grooves line up with the grooves of the pulleys when installing the drive belt, and that the belt tension is correct.

14. Fill the air conditioning system with refrigerant at a specialized car air conditioning service center.

When buying a new compressor, check with the seller for the amount and type of oil poured into the new compressor. This information can be useful for mechanics who will subsequently charge the system with refrigerant.

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To ensure the normal operation of the air conditioner, a prerequisite is periodic maintenance. Failure to comply with this simple rule quickly enough leads to a malfunction of the air conditioning system of the car and unscheduled expensive repairs.

Typical malfunctions of the Mazda 6 air conditioner, leading to a decrease in operating efficiency and compressor breakdown, are as follows:

• clogging of the cooling honeycomb of the condenser radiator with dirt, road dust and dead insects;
• faulty condenser cooling fan;
• violation of the sealing of the circuit, which leads to partial or complete loss of refrigerant;
• the presence of moisture in the circuit;
• internal contamination of the circuit;
• faulty receiver-dryer;
• insufficient refrigerant oil in the circuit.

Complete cleaning of the air conditioning system and replacement of the receiver-dryer should be carried out at a car service that has the appropriate equipment for diagnosing and refueling the air conditioner.

Traditionally rotating machines are the most prone to mechanical failure. In the air conditioning system, these units include:

• cooling Fan condenser radiator;
• flow-through interior fan of the evaporator radiator;
• electromagnetic clutch of the air conditioner compressor Mazda 6;
• air conditioning compressor Mazda 6 GG.

The main mechanical failure for these mechanisms is wear and tear of bearings, accompanied by extraneous sounds and increased noise. Most often, as noted by mechanics, the bearing of the electromagnetic clutch is subject to destruction. This is partly facilitated by the constructive arrangement of the units under the hood of the Mazda 6. All mechanisms are located quite tightly to each other, in the absence of ventilation under the influence of high temperatures, the coupling bearing grease quickly loses its properties, dries and thickens, the balls and the working surface of the cage work dry, which leads to destruction. Extraneous and constant sounds when the engine is running in the vicinity of the compressor is a clear signal to visit a car service.

All modifications of the Mazda 6 are equipped with rotary-type compressors with a fairly reliable design. Timely preventive cleaning and flushing work significantly extends the compressor's operating life. Deterioration of compressor performance, which can lead to serious damage, is influenced by the following factors:

1. Internal contamination of the circuit in the form of fine aluminum powder, which is formed when the rotor friction against the walls of the working chamber during operation.
2. Low refrigerant oil content.
3. Insufficient or high amount of refrigerant in the circuit.

The appearance of any even seemingly insignificant noise when the air conditioner is turned on and if it is lost after shutdown indicates a malfunction in the compressor and requires immediate diagnosis. Experienced mechanics who are constantly involved in the repair of air conditioning systems can almost accurately determine the malfunction by the sound of a running compressor. So for example:

1. Quiet, rustling sound can occur when aluminum powder gets between the walls of the chamber and the rotating rotor. It often disappears after flushing the system circuit and replacing the dryer. If the sound remains after cleaning and even intensifies, then removing the compressor and subsequent disassembly will be required to establish the cause.
2. The hum, rattle and squeak that appears after turning on the air conditioner is characteristic of a malfunction of the rotor shaft bearing.

Mechanical malfunctions of the compressor include breakage of the springs of the valve group, increased wear of the rotor and the walls of the compression chamber, as a result of which the pressure in the hot part of the circuit decreases and the electronic protection turns off the air conditioner. Repair of a Mazda 6 air conditioner compressor is a complex process, which should only be trusted by specialists. Broken springs must be replaced, but in case of wear of the rotor and compression chamber, the compressor will need to be replaced, since they cannot be restored.

Diagnostics of the air conditioning system should be carried out at least once a year, especially on vehicles with experience, the list of preventive maintenance performed is not long, but mandatory.

• leak test system circuit and elimination of the arisen malfunctions associated with the loss of refrigerant;
• flushing the system with replacing the receiver;
• cleaning the condenser cooling radiator;
• cleaning the evaporator;
• filling with refrigerant of the air conditioning system;
• bacterial treatment of air conditioner air ducts;
• technical condition and torque of the drive belt;
• replacement of the cabin air filter of the air conditioner.

It is better to hold such an event in spring, before the hot summer season, when intensive use of the air conditioner begins.

Discussion of issues related to the 1st generation car ...

chuh Wed, 18 Aug 2010, 15:22

As practice has shown, the bearing of the air conditioner pulley on the Mazda 6 can and should be changed without removing the compressor from the car. Either do it yourself, or look for a service that will do the job for you. You do not need to do any freon refills. The cost of the work should be from 1 to 2 thousand rubles.

Initially, our machines are equipped with NSK bearing 358D219DUM1 size 55x35x20 part number in existential 35BD219 (issue price 330 rubles). You can order an analog, just choose a good manufacturer and the size should naturally be 55x35x20.

Bearing Death Symptoms:
As a rule, it all starts with noise in the engine compartment. This noise can manifest itself in different ways. In the early stages of pulley bearing wear, a subtle hum or tapping, a slight metal grinding is heard from under the hood. It can appear only when the engine is warm, or vice versa, only when the engine is cold. As a rule, the sound changes or disappears altogether if you turn on the air conditioner.

To work, you need the following tool:
1. Head 10, and a small ¼ ”driver.
2. Retainer ring remover (100 rubles in any auto shop)
3. A sledgehammer or large hammer to press out the bearing.
4. Kern or small chisel.
5. Any piece of iron suitable in diameter for knocking the bearing out of the pulley.

All work on dismantling the pulley is performed from below.

In general terms, the process is as follows:
1. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right, remove the plastic wheel arch liner.

2. We take off the drive belt.

3. Unscrew the central bolt of the pulley and remove the clutch by hand.

4. Remove the retaining ring.

5. Remove by hand (if necessary, pry with a screwdriver) the pulley together with the bearing.

6. Carefully press out the bearing with a large hammer or sledgehammer through the spacer. We press in a new one.

7. Putting it up in reverse order.

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kolesnik073 Wed, 18 Aug 2010, 16:20

kolesnik073 Advanced Mazdavod Messages: 830 Acknowledgments: 3 pcs. Registration: Wed, 16 Sep 2009 Car: Mazda 6, 2.3, manual transmission

chuh Wed, 18 Aug 2010, 16:50

chuh Joined The author of this topic ... Messages: 67 Acknowledgments: 4 things. Registration: Thu, 23 Feb 2006

chuh Wed, 18 Aug 2010, 17:07

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Solomon Wed, 18 Aug 2010, 17:22

Solomon Advanced Mazdavod Messages: 454 Acknowledgments: 0 pcs. Registration: Wed, 09 Dec 2009 Where: Moscow Car: M6, restyle, 2.0, automatic transmission

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chuh Wed, 18 Aug 2010, 17:26

Open the hood, observe the clutch with the air conditioner off. I have this grinding sound if I touch the clutch with a screwdriver.

If you change the bearing with removing the compressor and refilling the kondeya, they announced 6500 rubles to me (the price includes the cost of the bearing and work on replacing and refilling). The price seems to be normal, in November I would have changed it myself, I like to tinker with the machine, I don’t know how exactly this is done yet

chuh Joined The author of this topic ... Messages: 67 Acknowledgments: 4 things. Registration: Thu, 23 Feb 2006

Solomon Wed, 18 Aug 2010, 17:28

Solomon Advanced Mazdavod Messages: 454 Acknowledgments: 0 pcs. Registration: Wed, 09 Dec 2009 Where: Moscow Car: M6, restyle, 2.0, automatic transmission

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chuh Wed, 18 Aug 2010, 21:18

This is the A / C drive pulley. If you touch the clutch plate (round plate with three magnets) with a screwdriver, a characteristic knock appears.

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kolesnik073 Thu, 19 Aug 2010, 09:26

This is the A / C drive pulley. If you touch the clutch plate (round plate with three magnets) with a screwdriver, a characteristic knock appears.

kolesnik073 Advanced Mazdavod Messages: 830 Acknowledgments: 3 pcs. Registration: Wed, 16 Sep 2009 Car: Mazda 6, 2.3, manual transmission

Solomon Thu, 19 Aug 2010, 09:56

Solomon Advanced Mazdavod Messages: 454 Acknowledgments: 0 pcs. Registration: Wed, 09 Dec 2009 Where: Moscow Car: M6, restyle, 2.0, automatic transmission

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chuh Thu, 19 Aug 2010, 10:53

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Solomon Thu, 19 Aug 2010, 10:54

How to find a good repair service - throw off the link. Thank you

Solomon Advanced Mazdavod Messages: 454 Acknowledgments: 0 pcs. Registration: Wed, 09 Dec 2009 Where: Moscow Car: M6, restyle, 2.0, automatic transmission

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chuh Thu, 19 Aug 2010, 11:08

Here is the device of our compressor, maybe someone will come in handy.

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kolesnik073 Thu, 19 Aug 2010, 11:16

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chuh Thu, 19 Aug 2010, 16:01

In short, I could not resist)) I climbed myself. As I thought, the bearing collapsed.

It is not necessary to remove the compressor from the machine; therefore, there is no need to drain the freon, respectively.

This pulley can be easily removed together with the bearing. No pullers are required. Business, unscrew the central bolt with a 10 head, and remove the retaining ring. After that, gently prying the pulley with a crowbar, he took it off with his hands. The bearing is pressed into the pulley, and the inner diameter just sits tightly on the compressor neck, therefore, after removing the retaining ring, it is quite easy to remove

My neighbor sells Mazda spare parts)), today he promised to bring a bearing from work. The most expensive Japanese 600 rubles (which are sold for 1500 everywhere), there is a ketai for 250 rubles. These are purchase prices.

Tomorrow I will put it, I will make a detailed report with pictures) In the meantime, pictures of my dead bearing.

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kolesnik073 Thu, 19 Aug 2010, 16:14

chuh wrote: In short, I could not resist)) I climbed myself. As I thought, the bearing collapsed.

It is not necessary to remove the compressor from the machine; therefore, there is no need to drain the freon, respectively.

This pulley can be easily removed together with the bearing. No pullers are required. Business, unscrew the central bolt with a 10 head, and remove the retaining ring. After that, gently prying the pulley with a crowbar, he took it off with his hands. The bearing is pressed into the pulley, and the inner diameter just sits tightly on the compressor neck, therefore, after removing the retaining ring, it is quite easy to remove

My neighbor sells Mazda spare parts)), today he promised to bring a bearing from work. The most expensive Japanese 600 rubles (which are sold for 1500 everywhere), there is a ketai for 250 rubles. These are purchase prices.

Tomorrow I will put it, I will make a detailed report with pictures) In the meantime, pictures of my dead bearing.

kolesnik073 Advanced Mazdavod Messages: 830 Acknowledgments: 3 pcs. Registration: Wed, 16 Sep 2009 Car: Mazda 6, 2.3, manual transmission

kolesnik073 Thu, 19 Aug 2010, 16:26

kolesnik073 Advanced Mazdavod Messages: 830 Acknowledgments: 3 pcs. Registration: Wed, 16 Sep 2009 Car: Mazda 6, 2.3, manual transmission

chuh Thu, 19 Aug 2010, 16:27

This gap should be within 0.2-0.5 mm, it is regulated by the selection of the thickness of the washer (one or more). It looks like I lost one washer during disassembly, the remaining washer is 0.5 mm thick. By the way, this is an ordinary metal washer, it is not a problem to find such a washer.

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Solomon Thu, 19 Aug 2010, 16:58

Solomon Advanced Mazdavod Messages: 454 Acknowledgments: 0 pcs. Registration: Wed, 09 Dec 2009 Where: Moscow Car: M6, restyle, 2.0, automatic transmission

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chuh Thu, 19 Aug 2010, 20:15

If anyone is interested, our native bearing NSK 358D219DUM1 size 55x35x20.

They just brought me a bearing. Brand NSK, exactly the same as it stood. In a sealed box, in a sealed cellophane.

Tomorrow I will bet.I really hope that it will work out)

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As the saying goes: "Trouble was not expected, but it came!" (With). And after the winter, my air conditioner died, i.e. in simple words - it does not work and does not get cold! The characteristic click of the compressor was not heard when the kondeya was turned on, and simple outside air (not cooled) was blowing. Before that, everything was in order (very much in winter) - it worked properly and without problems. In winter, I even started it a couple of times (in the underground parking lot and when the temperature was below + 15C, because the work of the air conditioner in the cold is limited to -5C), so that the air conditioner would work and the system revived a little, as the freon ran through the system, and the compressor was lubricated! to check, I pressed the refueling switch (like a spool on wheels) - silence was in response!

As the saying goes: “Prepare the sleigh from the summer!” (C). While the heat has not come yet, we need to do this now, because then it will be too late and there will be crowds of queues from cars. I realized that it just won't heal by itself and won't work - the breakdown verdict is clear to me - either a freon leak (but it itself can't just evaporate), or a hole or corrosion (which causes leakage). Now there are no queues at all, but I sense that later there will be a bunch of cars who realized that their air conditioner also died.

In the search engine and reviews, I found one office, first asked a question on the forum and received sane answers and a quote for work - I went to them for diagnostics and repairs.

I arrived, talked, suggested options for breakdowns and approximate prices for repairs, which may be the end result, made diagnostics, filled with a test freon, turned on the car with kondeem - the compressor started working (hurray! Already good! The compressor is alive), and then we heard (.) Hissing - means a leak (the amount of repair is falling before our eyes)! With the help of a gas analyzer (leak detector), we found where the fistula (hole) came from - it turned out to be a leaky aluminum tube, which connects to the body and is fixed for reliability.

Miniatures

They removed the air filter housing, removed the tube, and then they did not boil it with argon (close the hole) - the repairmen simply took out a piece of this part and replaced it with a new one - in this way it is guaranteed that a new hole will not open there (who knows how many holes there could be and jump out later). Everything is simple, clear and clear!

They put it back together, tested the system again, looked for leaks - everything turned out to be clean! Then everything is assembled anew - installs the air filter housing, everything is in reverse order! And then, when everything is assembled, we refuel the air conditioning system with freon and lubricant. We connected to the system, started the car, turned on the airflow at full power, set the minimum temperature, turned on the air conditioner - and began to fill the system! By pressure, we determine when the filling is completed! Everything is ready!

Now my air is cooling down very quickly - I'm happy! The system is working properly! Gave a guarantee until next winter. But most likely it will not rot there soon. So, advice to all of you - treat that junction with Movil or something else so that nothing rotted, because the procedure for repairing an air conditioner is very expensive (I did not know myself - now I will know that the wallet needs a thick one :)), but also It is impossible to drive without an air conditioner in the heat (if you love comfort, pay for it :)), so the repair was worth it - an air conditioner in the heat is necessary for Us! :)

A piece of the cut tube was given to me as a keepsake - everything was in corrosion there! The area of ​​corrosion is impressive! :)

Miniatures

In general, air conditioners on Japanese cars are quite reliable. Many of them work properly for 5-6 years with almost no maintenance. Nevertheless, at some point, the owner of a Mazda car comes to the service station with a complaint that "the air conditioner began to cool badly."

Why does the Mazda 6 air conditioner not work? The reasons for the poor performance of the air conditioner can be different. Even an experienced craftsman cannot always make an accurate diagnosis right away. The main problems that one has to face with these machines:

• clogged condenser radiator;
• corrosion of pipes or radiator (as a result - freon leakage);
• malfunction of the electromagnetic clutch;
• wear of the compressor mechanism.

If there are no obvious signs of depressurization, then to restore the operation of the air conditioner,

only cleaning and refueling the air conditioner Mazda 6. It is best, of course, to clean with a complete disassembly of the system. In this case, it is possible not only to remove external dirt between the radiator fins, but also internal dirt.

After cleaning, the air conditioner is assembled again, it is evacuated (to remove air and water vapor from the system) and filled with freon with the addition of special refrigerating oil.

If, after refueling, the pressure drops quickly and the air conditioner stops working normally because of this, you need to look for a leak. This is best done at a service center that has special devices. Car service specialists know from their own experience the "weak points" of different car models and the first thing they do is check them. For example, for a Mazda 6, such a place is the radiator pipes (especially on the first generation cars) and pipes that go under the air filter. Brewing rotten tubes or replacing them will completely solve the problem.

A more serious case is a compressor malfunction.

Most modern foreign cars are equipped with axial-piston compressors, which are relatively easy to repair. But Mazda is an exception. On the Mazda 6, the air conditioner compressor belongs to the rotary type (they are also called bladed). Such compressors have a long service life, but are extremely sensitive to contamination. Microscopic dust particles entering the system can cause damage. For accurate diagnostics, contact the service center, and repair of the Mazda 6 air conditioner compressor can also be carried out there, after establishing the cause of the malfunction.

If a distinct crackling sound is heard during operation, this is the first sign of blade wear. It is almost impossible to restore them - it is easier to buy a new compressor.

At first, the crackling appears only when the compressor is turned on and disappears as soon as the rotor reaches operating speed. After a while, the crackling turns into a quiet, continuous chirping.Many drivers do not even pay attention to this sound and do not rush to go to the service until the compressor is completely out of order.

Then we have to remove it and carry out a full check on the diagnostic bench. The bench measures the pressure at the inlet and outlet of the compressor in different modes. If the outlet pressure is below normal, then the unit is disassembled to find out the exact cause of the breakdown.

The most common cause of wear is dirt and metal powder, which is grinded by the blades from the walls of the working chamber. Additional factors are poor cooling of the refrigerant in the condenser (heat, dirty radiator, lack of freon). Thorough cleaning of the system and lubrication of the mechanism can temporarily extend its life. We had a case when the crackling compressor of the Mazda 6 GG air conditioner, after preventive maintenance, worked for several years without complaints, until its owner bought a new car.

Could a Mazda 6 A / C compressor clutch be the source of the problem? Yes. Clutch failure is also a frequent occurrence on "sixes". Here are the options:

• pulley bearing wear;
• malfunction of the electromagnet;
• pressure plate backlash.

Fortunately, all of these problems can be solved fairly easily and do not require dismantling the compressor. It is enough to remove only the plastic front wheel arch liner and loosen the belt. After that, the pressure plate, the pulley and the coil of the electromagnet are removed. The entire operation usually takes no more than an hour.

The main advice that can be given to owners of Mazda 6 cars - do not forget to carry out preventive maintenance and service of the air conditioner from time to time. Before the start of the season, it is advisable to thoroughly clean and flush the system and charge it with refrigerant. The rest of the time, you just need to monitor the freon pressure and periodically blow out the radiator from dust and dirt.

If you notice that freon is suspiciously quickly evaporating from the system, immediately go to the service for diagnostics. Believe me, it is easier and cheaper to replace one tube at once than to change the entire compressor or condenser later.

The Mazda 6 air conditioner provides an optimal microclimate in the passenger compartment and is a complex technical system consisting of several units. Of course, few people think about this, imagining just the A / C button on the front panel, which helps to cope with the heat on a summer day.

Car air conditioning in Mazda 6 GL since 2015

All Mazda 6 cars are equipped with air conditioning (basic version) or air conditioning. The air conditioning system consists of the following main elements:

In the engine compartment there is a plate indicating the brand of refrigerant, its volume, as well as the type and amount of oil in the compressor.

The Mazda 6 GL air conditioner uses a new "environmentally friendly" refrigerant R1234yf. Since 2017, cars have been using XA R1234yf in air conditioning systems. Mazda 6 GJ until 2017 were produced with the 134th XA. The amount of refrigerant is 1500 g.

Air conditioning systems Mazda 6 compressor type. The compressor provides the movement of the refrigerant in the system.

Mazda 6 GH cars of the first releases suffer from rotting of the pressure pipe connection and clogged radiators, more "fresh" Mazda 6 - from rotting of the radiator pipes and contamination of the inter-radiator space.

The Mazda 6 GH air conditioner is charged with R134a refrigerant in the amount of 500 g.

Car air conditioner in Mazda 3 BL 2009 2013

In Mazda 3 cars of the same production year, a similar unit with R134a refrigerant was used, but the volume was slightly less - 460 g.

Car air conditioner in Mazda 6 GG 2002 2007

Air conditioners Mazda 6 since 2002 have automatic control. The electronic control unit of the air conditioner has a self-diagnosis function. To determine the cause of the air conditioner malfunction, it is necessary to read the malfunction codes in specialized service centers.

R134a refrigerant rate for Mazda 6 air conditioner - 470 g.

The compressor of the Mazda 6 air conditioner of the piston type is installed on the engine and is driven by a poly V-belt.The compressor shaft is mounted in an aluminum housing on bearings. The A / C compressor drive pulley rotates on a double-row bearing. The connection of the compressor when the air conditioner is turned on is provided by means of an electromagnetic clutch. All rotating elements of the compressor in the absence of preventive maintenance during operation can lead to malfunctions.

The Mazda 6 air conditioning system uses a full-flow aluminum air conditioner radiator (condenser) with rectilinear circulation. It is installed in front of the main radiator of the engine cooling system. In the condenser, the compressed refrigerant is cooled and then sent to the evaporator in the form of a liquid. In the evaporator, air is cooled by heat exchange with a refrigerant and, with the help of a fan, is supplied to the Mazda 6 interior.

The main problems of the radiator of the air conditioner are the contamination of the honeycomb and corrosion of the pipelines, leading to the depressurization of the system.

Air conditioners Mazda 6 have sufficient reliability. Most of them can operate practically without maintenance for 4-5 years. But, nevertheless, you should not take it to the extreme and carry out maintenance of the air conditioner in a timely manner. Prevention is always cheaper than repair. Remove dirt and insects from the radiator of the air conditioner twice a year. And before each summer season, check the tightness, clean and refuel the system.