There are some other problems that affect the control unit to a lesser extent. More often, repairs concern air bellows and plugs, since corrosive substances, dirt and moisture constantly get into them. The receiver body may even crack, or the connecting tube of the system may fray (it, like the cylinder, must be replaced).It is necessary to check the condition of the valves, as sometimes the coils burn out. Even a slight misalignment will require calibration, and special equipment will be required here. But the compressor, on the contrary, fails much less often.
Mercedes requires periodic computer diagnostic examination. Therefore, a serious repair or adaptation of the air suspension in the event of a small problem in a Mercedes, unlike competing cars, is not always necessary. In addition, the W220 air suspension has good air struts, which are automatically adjusted by the control unit. Everything will depend on the road surface and conditions, while nothing will prevent you from switching to manual control (for this you just need to press the switch located on the dashboard).
The car has four damping modes. They are designed to monitor the condition of the coating and provide smooth running and control. For example, at a speed of 140 km / h, the ground clearance will automatically decrease to 15 cm, and at 70 km / h the level will be restored.
Diagnostics and prevention will prevent many problems from occurring, and timely replacement of faulty elements of this system will allow you to drive on any route absolutely calmly. Minor repairs can be performed on your own, but if you are faced with more serious problems, then it is better to trust the professionals - the Mercedes W220 deserves it.
VIDEO
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Hello, I would like to share my experience in repairing the valve block. The fact is that no one repairs them here, everyone says that only a replacement, even a specialized service that deals only with the restoration of pneumatic struts. Yes, and on the Internet I found only one link to drayv2ru, where a person repaired the rail. In general, I called for the disassembly, found out that they had a used one for 10tr, decided: I was not, there was nothing to lose. It won't work, I'll throw it out. Just a toad strangles to give 10tr for a pig in a poke.
I washed it with a blower, blew it with a compressor, cleaned the old sealant. I decided to put it back together with the old rubber bands, but not everything is so simple, the rubber bands were stretched out, hardened and did not want to go clearly into their places and simply cut themselves off on the sharp edges of the groove for them.
I had to go to the utility store, in the fifth store I found rubber gaskets of any size in the plumbing department. We came up with a bang:
He smeared the sealant, clamped it with a clamp (there the valve plates snap into the grooves for them) and tightened with clamps (the clamps are needed because the body broke). Yes, the collective farm, so what.
In short, here is such a collective farm repair, but now the car does not go down, the compressor is resting. In my opinion, the problem was in the rubber gaskets, which were tired from time and metal oxidation.
Hello. owned by w211 airmatic, 4matic.There are no problems with tightness, but the stiffness of the suspension in Comfort mode is worse than on conventional springs. There are no wire breaks. Star doesn't show anything. Where to look, please tell me.
Good evening! It is not entirely correct to compare the movement of a car on air suspension with a car on springs. Shock absorbers have a completely different design and rebound and compression forces. If the shock absorbers are dry, they do not knock, based on statistics, they are working, possibly with slightly reduced performance due to wear or dirt in the ADS. The working fluid loses its properties, viscosity with mileage, the tendency of the oil to foaming increases. The friction products of the working surfaces contaminate the oil chemically and physically with particles of piston rings, metals, etc. ADS in all Mercedes models is clogged with mud on substantial runs. The ADS valves are wedged by dirt and are no longer fully controlled as they should. If you are worried about excessive rolls and rolls, repair.
Detailed, competent, modest. Thanks a lot!
On the Audi A8, pneuma is more reliable than 220 and the car is the best in everything
Many thanks to the author !!
Hello! We are glad that the video was interesting to watch. Unfortunately, there is no service station in St. Petersburg, the nearest one is in Kazan.
Thank you, everything is clear and understandable. What are the terms of cooperation?
Good evening! Write to the mail about your company, we will be glad to cooperate!
Hello, tell me please, I have a w 220, the rear pillar falls at sub-zero temperatures, I start it up, I drive it into a warm garage, it does not go down for a week, what could be the reason, please tell me! I live in the far north, there is no way to make diagnostics.
Good day! Check for leaks using the methods that you can do without diagnostics (soapy water from the pulverizer) Remove the mesh from the speaker and check if the valve does not poison the residual pressure between the halves in the place of the rolling, then check whether the seal of the aluminum cup into which the valve is screwed in, if there air bubbles will not indicate a leak in a water solution of soap or Fairey will have to leak hot water when it is cold and the car goes down to drive into the room, throw off the right locker until the car has time to warm up and also check the valve rack and the compressor with soapy water. If there is no leak anywhere in these places, then the balloon is poisoned.
What can you say about such a repair kit with this number 0230288, is it possible to install it on the w220 rear pillar? And how difficult is it to do? Thanks!
What kind of repair kit is this?))) Contact the professionals, believe me, it will be cheaper in the end.
Thank you guys for the helpful video. Hello everyone. Tell me, how did you talk about cooperation?
Super, great educational video!
Write down my number please. I will have a question for you and write your number to me and if you need any little things I can send from America and you will help me I will help you 5855124297 Ilyaz
Tradution Portuguese please
Hello! Sorry, but for us it's very difficult! Thank you for your attention to our channel!
Continuing the thought, one more question. If everything is in order, then the compressor should not run as there is no leakage. Or it is possible that the compressor has died long ago and the owner of the car never found out about it until a leak was detected and the system turned to the compressor and he is not Ale?
Good day. I will join all those who left a good review of your work. Here's what's interesting to me. In your video, you say that in a hermetically sealed arrangement, the compressor should not work. Then the man wrote that he drove out of the car wash and the car fell. As a result, the compressor died. Is the compressor still dead from work? Accordingly, when buying a new compressor, it did not solve the problem, did it? I ask you to add a few more words about the relay that turns on this compressor) thanks. Good luck with your work.
Friends! We are very grateful to you for your attention to our channel, company and products! Until the end of 2017, everyone who applies to us for the repair of pneumatic cylinders for any Mercedes-Benz model and calls the promo code “Youtube” will receive a unique right to receive a loyalty card with a lifetime discount of 10% and a 50% discount on the repair of a second cylinder. This is our gratitude to the audience of our channel! Anyone who contacts our Youtube channel from remote regions and names a promo code, we will, in addition to everything, deliver the order to the door at our own expense. Hurry up until 2018!
Stuttgart ServiceChelyabinsk it is a pity that you are not doing amerikos. Balloons for three years, and replacement.
Good day! Our new website, write an appeal, tell us about your company and start cooperating tomorrow.
Stuttgart Service Chelyabinsk
Hello! Have you checked the rack as shown in this video before installing it? If it did not squat under the weight of the body, then most likely it is intact, if it was not checked, then the cylinder may not be sealed, if the compressor turns on and works but the machine does not rise, the following options are possible: 1) The compressor is dead and cannot lift the machine (check if it gives less than 16 bar -replacement or repair) 2) during installation, it is possible but unlikely that you have skewed the aluminum cup into which the KO.D. is screwed. and there is a leak 3) The residual pressure valve is faulty and does not open to fill the cylinder.
The company Stuttgart Service, Chelyabinsk, tell me please installed a used rear drain, I assembled the wheel, I screwed the car down and started the car, but the rack did not rise, could I have messed up something with the rack, but the hiss was not heard, you could hear in the cabin that air enters it but for some reason does not raise it, help, thanks
Or at least tell me the dimensions of the threaded connections in the pneumatic chambers.
Guys, tell me what quick-detachable fittings do you use instead of standard fittings in the Tuareg air suspension?
I found a representative of the Camozzi company in my city, saw the products, it remains to understand what dimensions of the couplings are required.
Can you please tell me which model of quick-release couplings should be purchased for Tuareg air suspension?
what sizes are needed? Is there a quick coupler with the required diameter of the union for connecting to the pneumatic chamber?
Hello! If you want to install a BRS, then Camozzi the best solution, find a representative in your city and buy a BRS if you are tired of the standard residual pressure valves.
Hello, tell me please, I have an E class W211, 2003, on pneuma, and when a muffled one is standing for a long time, the back drops noticeably (about a day is needed) when you start it, everything rises again and everything works fine, why is it dangerous? And what to do? There is no service nearby that can look at pneuma.
Hello everyone! I ask for advice from specialists who are present on the site)). I will try to explain in a nutshell and in order. I bought myself a w220 about 2 months ago. A week later, I began to think that he did not rise and does not fall. I climbed to the compressor and saw that the chips were removed from the dump valve. I connected them and the car fell on my belly. I tortured him for a long time, trying in vain to raise him. Until I found out that the track was burnt out in the airmatic control unit. I soldered a thin wire in its place, but the car did not rise. The compressor pressed only 3 points. changed the compressor and it rose. Several times, even with the button, I adjusted the height of the clearance)))) Now frosts came and I sat down on the back left side (I think because the tube is missing) and does not rise. I turn on the ignition, start the engine, the compressor works and works for 3 seconds and turns off, while the car does not rise. Forced from the button does not react at all. The rest of the wheels are in the lowest position (about 2 cm from the arches to the wheel), which may be the reason I can't imagine. Relay replaced. I forcibly start the compressor, it pumps, but does not raise the car. Car Mercedes w220 2001. Guys help with advice.
It looks like a valve block. Is the old woman on hand?
No, I'm old. There was such a story 3-4 days ago. I then thought that it was in the wiring block that fell off from the frost that I soldered. He took off the block and brought it home, opened it, and everything is all right there. I took it to the car and set it down.After a while (5 seconds) I start the compressor and lifted the car. The most interesting thing is that the button lights up and goes out when pressed again.
No, I'm old. There was such a story 3-4 days ago. I then thought that it was in the wiring block that fell off from the frost that I soldered. He took off the block and brought it home, opened it, and everything is all right there. I took it to the car and set it down. After a while (5 seconds) I start the compressor and lifted the car. The most interesting thing is that the button lights up and goes out when pressed again.
Before starting work, disconnect the vehicle battery to prevent short circuits of electrical components. Instructions for disconnecting the battery can be obtained from the vehicle manufacturer.
Storage temperature 5 ° F (-15 ° C) to 122 ° F (50 ° C);
Beware of damage to pneumatic lines and cables;
Installation and dismantling operations must be carried out by qualified personnel;
Use the vehicle manufacturer's software to diagnose it.
WARNING: Damage to vehicle and air suspension is possible if work is performed in the wrong sequence or when methods are used that are not in accordance with this document.
Look in your vehicle manual or your dealer for the location of the jack support points and read the vehicle safety and maintenance instructions. It is strictly forbidden to carry out work under the vehicle if it is not secured with a sufficient degree of reliability. Failure to do so will result in serious injury or death.
Set the steering wheel to the straight-ahead position of the vehicle.
Raise the vehicle.
Remove the front wheel.
4. Disconnect the shock absorber control cable connector located in the wheel arch.
5. Loosen and remove the two (2) bolts holding the bottom of the air strut to the bottom bracket.
6. Open the shock absorber cover and disconnect the air line from the air shock absorber.
7. Remove the three (3) nuts securing the top of the shock absorber.
8. Disconnect the upper arm pivot from the actuator and remove the air spring.
Tighten all bolts and nuts during installation to manufacturer specifications.
Installation is carried out upside-down.
2. Remove the side shroud in the rear panel to expose the top of the air spring. (located in the area of the rear window of the car).
3. Disconnect the air line and remove the three (3) retaining nuts on top of the air spring.
4. Remove the rubber boot and disconnect the electrical connector from the shock absorber solenoid valve.
5. Remove the caliper retainer.
6. Loosen the two (2) bolts on the back of the caliper.
7. Disconnect the transducer connector and remove the transducer bracket.
8. Secure the caliper securely.
9. Disconnect the outer arm.
10. Disconnect the stabilizer.
11. Remove the bolt and nut connecting the arm and shock absorber.
12. Slightly loosen the nut on the lower arm. This will release the lower arm a little.
Tighten all bolts and nuts during installation to manufacturer specifications.
Installation is carried out upside-down.
1. Locate the N51 Control Unit labeled "Temic". It is located on the left side of the fuse box.
2. Disconnect all 3 connectors.
3. Connect the blue connector on the Electronic Shunt Module to the 2-pin connector on the N-51 harness.
4. Connect the electronic shunt module ground to the nearest vehicle ground.
5. Install the fuse (12V) in the fuse box.
A common problem in a car air conditioner is a noisy or stuck compressor. It also happens that the compressor works silently, does not wedge, but does not pump anymore. It happens that the compressor works fine but is leaking.Less common bypass valve malfunctions.
It happens that a leak occurs between the "halves" of the compressor. There are two types of seals between compressor parts - either a regular O-Ring, only of a very large diameter, or a thin metallized gasket. The compressor must be disassembled to replace a defective seal. This work is delicate, responsible, requiring experience, cleanliness and accuracy.
Failed compressor sounds can be divided into two types. The first is when the engine is started and the noise does not disappear when the air conditioner is turned off. This means that the bearing of the compressor pulley has failed. It should be said that it is better not to ride with a noisy compressor pulley bearing. You can read more about this very common problem in the bearing replacement section. It is much worse if noises are heard when the air conditioner is turned on. This is usually incurable and most likely the beginning of the end of the compressor. And the rumble is a consequence of the internal backlash of the moving parts. In five cases out of a hundred, the death of the compressor may be delayed for a short time by adding oil. But usually it all ends sadly - replacing the compressor assembly. Most importantly, if you notice abnormal noises from the area where the air conditioner compressor is located, contact a specialized service as soon as possible.
Often there are people who believe that since the knocking and rumbling has already begun, the compressor must be used until the moment it dies completely.
During this time, the compressor wears out with all the remaining forces. Due to backlash and internal distortions, aluminum is abundantly grinded from the walls of the compression chambers, graphite is cut from the compression rings into the system (compression rings are made of graphite), clogging the receiver-dryer and expansion valves with wear products.
I would like to clarify that in this case, simply replacing the compressor with a new one is not enough, because it will not work for long anyway. Everything that the old “gnawed” from its bowels remained in abundance in the oil, which has now acquired the color “black metallic”, in the receiver-dryer and in all parts of the system. Wear debris will inevitably kill a new compressor. And it will happen quickly - in a month at most. And the purchase of a new compressor can cost over 1000 USD. And not everyone will be able to pay that kind of money every month by buying a new unit.
A person who noticed noises from the depths of the compressor at an early stage saves on the procedure for flushing the system. The operation is relatively expensive and involves a whole bunch of reinforcement work. We insist precisely on dismantling each unit and flushing it separately. Exclusively for visual control of the cleanliness of the units being washed and parts of the system. We'll have to fork out for the replacement of the receiver-dryer.
We make this reservation for a reason. Quite a few firms offer flushing of the air conditioner system for "ridiculous" money, using special equipment and without disassembling anything. Probably, this is great, but sometimes our craftsmen do not have enough physical effort to pick out wear products from some pipe, compressed with liquid freon to the state of asphalt. And such options are increasingly common. This happens when one owner of the car, for example, has a jammed compressor, he did not repair anything, and a year later he sold another car, throwing off money with the words “you just need to refuel. “And the new owner of the car starts spending insanely on restoration.
Summing up, I would like to once again draw your attention to the fact that an automobile air conditioner is a very delicate thing, and you should not start its diseases.
Flushing the system is required if your compressor makes a mechanical clang and roar when turned on, or has already successfully jammed. The flushing process is carried out by dismantling the system parts and washing them under pressure with special detergents from the inside. With the obligatory replacement of the receiver-drier with a new one. In some cases, it is necessary to change the expansion valve.
In short, do not delay the repair, if needed, because at different stages it can cost differently.And most importantly, flushing can sometimes take 2-3 days, since it is associated with the replacement of control valves and expansion valves of rear evaporators and refrigerators. Better not to make your system unrepairable.
The topic is closed. If you still need help, sign up for our car service for the diagnosis and repair of Mercedes by phones: (495) 381-21-87, (925) 506-44-86.
Check the wiring first and the connectors. Then the level sensor.
I think everything comes to the sensor because I tried to remove the traction from it and move it myself all the way down the computer flashes the error in red to stop the car, there is not enough ground clearance and the compressor starts to roam, and if the chip immediately bleeds air into the top, even on a plastic clamp it tightened
was going to buy a Mercedes 220 2002-3 onwards. interested in the problems of air suspension, tk. many people scare! what problems can arise! And where to look, how to check the car before buying. thanks in advance!
I have w220 1999
rose? if it does not rise, then check the compressor
Well, the fact that you have it on your belly is that the system does not hold air, you need to check the pipe connections and valves, perhaps a “tired” compressor (it often turns on), if it does not turn on, then check whether it is receiving power, there may be a wire break or bad contact on the block, look at the relay.
the air in the system simply froze out. and if it does not hold on a warm one, then see the recommendations above
the compressor has air drying granules, if the machine is not young, then their resource is probably exhausted. When the compressor is running, the air is compressed and, accordingly, a by-product condensate is obtained. and in case of temperature drops, the air in the system can be “grabbed”, as Sergei said above. such suspensions do not tolerate the winter very well, I do not go if it is below -15 *, I take a simpler car.
filter drier is installed only in the air conditioning system of cars and then except for those manufactured for the Saudi Arabian market
and it makes no sense to install such a filter in the airmatic system, since there is a direct intake of air from the atmosphere, in contrast to a closed air conditioning system. airmatics has a simple paper filter at the inlet
I personally disassembled my compressor with my own hands and can confirm the presence of silica gel.
I also disassembled, though for a long time, but I do not remember where it was filled up there. maybe you analyzed it later and you have a better memory, so I won't argue
a filter drier is located on the compressor itself above the electric motor along the air line coming from the pump valve. about the size of a retractor relay for a starter on a Zhiguli. it is from him that the air line goes further to the valve block.
If you did the diagnostics in a regular service, then there is nothing surprising. Errors should be checked at the dealership. In a regular service, their computer does not even see those errors that are already on the dashboard. Checked on W211.
Hello everyone! I ask for advice from specialists who are present on the site)). I will try to explain in a nutshell and in order. I bought myself a w220 about 2 months ago. A week later, I began to think that he did not rise and does not fall. I climbed to the compressor and saw that the chips were removed from the dump valve. I connected them and the car fell on my belly. I tortured him for a long time, trying in vain to raise him. Until I found out that the track was burnt out in the airmatic control unit. I soldered a thin wire in its place, but the car did not rise. The compressor pressed only 3 points. changed the compressor and it rose. Several times, even with the button, I adjusted the height of the clearance)))) Now frosts came and I sat down on the back left side (I think because the tube is missing) and does not rise. I turn on the ignition, start the engine, the compressor works and works for 3 seconds and turns off, while the car does not rise. Forced from the button does not react at all.The rest of the wheels are in the lowest position (about 2 cm from the arches to the wheel), which may be the reason I can't imagine. Relay replaced. I forcibly start the compressor, it pumps, but does not raise the car. Car Mercedes w220 2001. Guys help with advice.
It looks like a valve block. Is the old woman on hand?
No, I'm old. There was such a story 3-4 days ago. I then thought that it was in the wiring block that fell off from the frost that I soldered. He took off the block and brought it home, opened it, and everything is all right there. I took it to the car and set it down. After a while (5 seconds) I start the compressor and lifted the car. The most interesting thing is that the button lights up and goes out when pressed again.
Video (click to play).
No, I'm old. There was such a story 3-4 days ago. I then thought that it was in the wiring block that fell off from the frost that I soldered. He took off the block and brought it home, opened it, and everything is all right there. I took it to the car and set it down. After a while (5 seconds) I start the compressor and lifted the car. The most interesting thing is that the button lights up and goes out when pressed again.
