Do-it-yourself compressor repair scania

The company "Tochnaya rabota" offers to repair the Scania compressor on favorable terms. We have masters specializing in the repair of air compressors for trucks. Spare parts and repair kits, original parts and assemblies are always available. We provide a guarantee not only for spare parts, but also for the work performed.

For the clients of the company "Exact work" the following services:

• Dismantling / installation of Scania trucks compressors.
• Checking the condition of compressor parts, diagnostics of devices.
• Replacing the piston group.
• Troubleshooting details.
• Sandblasting, cleaning, painting.
• Comprehensive repair of the Scania truck compressor.
• Checking the compliance of the compressor with the factory settings on a specialized stand.

After carrying out the diagnostics, our masters will provide an estimate for the repair of the SCANIA pneumatic system compressor and carry out the necessary work in accordance with the volume agreed with the customer. Genuine and aftermarket air compressor parts are available.

Leave a request for the repair of a cargo compressor, and we will contact you!

By contacting us, you get the following advantages:

1. Short terms of work. We value your time, and therefore we carry out repair work in the shortest possible time.
2. Dealer equipment. We use professional equipment for diagnostics and repair of air compressors of Scania trucks.
3. Low prices. We have favorable prices for the repair of the SCANIA compressor - we suggest that you familiarize yourself with our price list right now.

Our managers are ready to answer any of your questions. You can find out more about our services and sign up for repairs. Call us - we will perform service and repair work in case of breakdowns of any complexity!

Brief Description of Air Compressor Operation
The compressor cogwheel is driven by the engine timing gear. The compressor block is air-cooled with external fins, the cylinder head is cooled with antifreeze, the cylinder head cooling jacket is integrated with the engine cooling system. The compressor is lubricated from the engine lubrication system. Compressor crankshaft lubrication is compulsory, under pressure. The remaining friction surfaces and bearings are spray lubricated.

The car compressor with shutdown system has two modes: duty cycle and idle mode

Compressor duty cycle

When the piston moves down, the petal check valve 2 opens under the action of the resulting vacuum. Air enters the cylinder through the open intake duct.

When the piston moves up, the intake valve 2, under the influence of the pressure in the cylinder, closes. The air leaves through channel 3, through the outlet valve 4 and enters the consumers.

Compressor idle operation

When the pressure in the system reaches the norm, the compressor is turned off by supplying air to the piston 5 (making the compressor more economical ESS energy saving system). Piston 5 moves forward and opens the intake valve. The space above the compressor piston and the intake chamber 6 above the compressor cylinder are connected. At the same time, channel 3 is closed and air cannot enter the system.

When the piston moves up, the air in the cylinder and in the receiving chamber is compressed. Compressed air exerts pressure on the piston crown as it moves downward. Thus, the energy expended on air compression is recovered.

Dismantling the air compressor

1. Remove the cylinder head bolts (6 pcs.around the edges)
2. Remove the compressor head
3. Remove the intake flap 1, levers 2
4. Remove the gasket 10
5. Unscrew the compressor shut-off tube connector at one end and remove the retaining ring at the other (for older compressors). For new ones, unscrew the nut.
6. Remove pins 4 from plungers 3
7. Remove plungers 3 and springs 5.

Cleaning and troubleshooting of compressor parts

• Thoroughly clean the traces of carbon deposits
• Make sure the cylinder head mating surfaces are clean.
• Make sure that there is no working out in the block in the places of movement of the pin 6

Air Compressor Assembly

1. Insert springs 5 ​​and plungers 3
2. Insert pins 4 into plungers
3. Install a new gasket 10
4. Install pins 6, levers 2 and intake flaps 1
5. Using a large screwdriver, push the pistons 3 and check the smooth movement of the intake flaps
6. Install the cylinder head 7 with valve body 9

When installing the drive gear on the compressor shaft, both mating surfaces must be thoroughly degreased. The tightening is done in four stages:

• 1 - stage bolt tightening 90Nm;
• 2 - stage, release the gear mounting bolt;
• 3 - stage of tightening the bolt with a torque of 90Nm;
• 4 - stage turn by 60 °

Some subtleties.
When installing the compressor head on a Scania car, due to its tilt, the intake flap 1 sometimes gets under the gasket 10, as a result of which the compressor does not turn off. To avoid such a malfunction, it is enough to apply a drop of super glue on its surface before installing the shutter 1. Do the same for spacer 10.

When installing the compressor on a car, make sure that all three compressor mounting studs are in place on the Scania engine block, so it is easier to install it. The studs will serve as guides. In addition, turn the compressor gear so as to catch its slight free rotation. When installed, the gear will easily mesh with the gears of the engine timing mechanism.

Do not use sealant when assembling the compressor.

The compressor grunted in the summer. It doesn't matter which one.
Services without looking, over the phone, estimated the repair at 1.5-2.0 thousand rubles.
I realized that the compressor itself was jammed. The motor hums cannot crank.

I disassemble, it is. Forming in oil. I remove the head, with rings, a piston and a cylinder, complete order.
I take it off the crankshaft, we arrived, badass on the liner.
Since the lubricant is natural (bathroom), then the liner is luminous.
I sand it, change the oil, everything is in order.

Background.
The compressor threshed all day in the heat, stood tilted back.
Oil starvation has done its job.

So everything is extremely simple there.
Change the oil more often and place the compressor evenly, there is nothing to break there.
Yes, and do not forget to drain the condensate.

Satanas wrote:
So everything is extremely simple there.

You are verbatim retelling the Operating Instructions.
Some people, including myself, read it right after purchase, but before using it for the first time.

Satanas thanks for the reminder. Today I finally checked the oil and drained the condensate.

There is nothing to break - oh, if only. But I also spent about the same amount of time on repairs.
The picture buzzes, pumps instead of 8 atmospheres 3 maximum. She removed the cover - one of the plate valves in half. I cut out a plate from a spatula (it could have been from a probe), put it on - it works.

And also from the head not stretched out in time (according to the instructions), it punches the gasket between the head and the valve body.
And the thermals are also turned off, a triple dose of oil is poured. and the most favorite of all is to twist the pressure switch.

Suddenly the compressor stopped pumping at all. 🙁 That is, everything works, but there is no pressure. The cause was a grain of sand under the intake valve. And the repair boiled down to wiping the valve on a new shirt. :-R

Satanas wrote:
Change the oil more often and place the compressor evenly, there is nothing to break there.
Yes, and do not forget to drain the condensate.

And do not forget to drain the condensate too.Our story is the opposite of yours - they handed over the compressor to us and demanded to be repaired under warranty. In addition to the fact that the oil in it did not change and was not topped up even once, it was also found that there was half a bucket of rusty oily water in the 50-liter receiver.

He-Hemul wrote:
She removed the cover - one of the plate valves in half. I cut out a plate from a spatula (it could have been from a probe), put it on - it works.

He-Hemul wrote:
The picture buzzes, pumps instead of 8 atmospheres 3 maximum. She removed the cover - one of the plate valves in half. I cut out a plate from a spatula (it could have been from a probe), put it on - it works.

my case is direct. only I will trample him in the store .. or in the service center.
I do not know how to mess with them yet .. and there is no desire.
ideally, return it altogether. and then again then something will come up ... for Forte - Ketaysky))
undertook to paint the house .. and then, an infection, did not live.

VitaminD wrote:
undertook to paint the house .. and then, an infection, did not live.

oh well ... the foreman is what china, and it has been rattling for more than a year, primers, mastics, waterproofing, paint of various curly foam plates. shop and service, a day of hassle, and so-20 minutes of shame and further rumbles.

ruslan1111 wrote:
and so-20 minutes of shame and further rumbles.

Yes, on weekends there is not much time to repair it .. all the more, maybe that's not the point.
I will open it, I will not fix it ... and I will treat it with the guarantors)

He-Hemul wrote:
She removed the cover - one of the plate valves in half. I cut out a plate from a spatula (it could have been from a probe),

I treated the same trouble yesterday. True, at first I rode through the services, I wanted to find my own. As a result, we had to use the collective farm from the 0.2 mm probe. The width fit perfectly (10 mm), and cut it lengthwise with metal scissors. I shook it, everything is normal.

A year ago I was presented with a 100-liter ABAC, killed.
An autopsy showed that the dipstick had broken off, which sprayed oil from the crankcase along the walls. As a result of working in the oil hunger mode, the connecting rod bushings were gobbled up.
It turned out to be unrealistic to buy a new connecting rod, or even a complete steam generator, and had to work on a collective farm.
I bought two suitable needle bearings, there was no cutter of the required diameter, but I had my own CNC:

I pressed it in, everything works. It looks like the system is capable of working without oil at all, but I did not risk it

Yes, and a note to the hostess. This device has the most awful scheme - the crankshaft is on the motor, the piston is directly on it. Without gears and belts. The induction motor starts very slowly, the whole system is very sensitive to undervoltage.
To make it easier to start the motor, I decided to reduce the compression. Between the crankcase and the cylinder, I laid a gasket ring from an old oil filter from some foreign car. By extending the pins, I can, by pressing the cylinder into the rubber, reduce the volume of the working chamber, thereby increasing the compression ratio. It helped, only now from “zero to 10 atm it pumps not 3-5 minutes, but 7-10 minutes, it suits me

There are situations when the air compressor, peacefully rattling the engine in the corner of the garage, starts to malfunction, or even turns off altogether. And at this moment, as luck would have it, there is a need for it. Do not be afraid, after studying theoretical information, repairing a compressor with your own hands will not seem like something unattainable.

The main purpose of air compressor units is to create a continuous, uniform jet of compressed air. The dense gas stream is then driven by various pneumatic tools. These can be airbrushes, tire inflation guns, wrenches, cutting machines, pneumatic chisels, nailers, and more. In the minimum configuration, the compressor unit is equipped with a supercharger (an engine that creates an air flow) and a receiver (a container for storing compressed gas).

Compressors with a piston system electric motor have found the greatest application in car repair shops.In the supercharger crankcase, the transfer rod moves along the axis back and forth, giving the oscillatory moment to the reciprocating movement of the piston with O-rings. The bypass valve system located in the cylinder head works in such a way that when the piston moves downward, air is taken from the inlet pipe, and upward - it is returned to the outlet.

The gas flow is directed to the receiver, where it is compacted. Due to its design, the blower produces an uneven air stream. Which is not applicable to spray gun use. A kind of condenser (receiver) saves the situation, which smooths out the pressure pulsations, giving out a uniform flow at the outlet.

A more complex design of the compressor unit implies the attachment of additional equipment designed to provide automatic operation, dehumidification and humidification. And if in the case of a simple execution it is easy to localize a malfunction, then the complication of the equipment execution complicates the search. The following are the most common faults and remedies for the most common piston-type compressed gas systems.

To make it easier to find the problem, all defects can be classified by the nature of the malfunction:

• Compressor unit blower does not start
• Compressor motor hums but does not pump air or fills air reservoir too slowly
• At start-up, the thermal protection circuit breaker is triggered or the mains fuse is blown out.
• When the blower is turned off, the pressure in the compressed air tank drops
• The thermal protection circuit breaker is periodically triggered
• Exhaust air contains a lot of moisture
• Engine vibrates violently
• Compressor runs intermittently
• Air flow is consumed below normal

Let's consider all the causes of the problems and how to fix them.

If the engine does not start and does not hum, then the supply voltage is not applied to it. First of all, using an indicator screwdriver, check the presence of "zero" and "phase", as well as the reliability of the plug-to-socket connection. In case of poor contact, measures are taken for a tighter fit. If there is 220 V at the input of the circuit, the fuses of the compressor unit look.

Failed ones are replaced by passive protection devices of the same rating as defective ones. In no case are hot-melt inserts designed for a higher electric current allowed. If the fuse blows again, you should find out the cause of the failure - probably a short circuit at the input of the circuit.

The second reason why the unit does not start is that the pressure control relay in the receiver is faulty or the level settings are out of order. To check, gas is released from the cylinder and the supercharger is tested. If the engine is running, the relay is reset. Otherwise, the defective part is replaced.

Also, the engine will not start when the thermal overload circuit breaker is triggered. This device turns off the power supply circuit of the winding of the electrical device in case of overheating of the piston system, fraught with seizure of the motor. Let the blower cool down for at least 15 minutes. After this time has elapsed, restart it.

With an underestimated mains voltage, the electric motor does not master the scrolling of the axis, while it will hum. With this malfunction, first of all, we check the voltage level in the network using a multimeter (it must be at least 220 V).

If the voltage is normal, then the pressure in the receiver is probably too high, and the piston does not overpower the pushing of air. In this case, manufacturers recommend setting the “AUTO-OFF” automatic switch to the “OFF” position for 15 seconds and then moving it to the “AUTO” position. If this does not help, then the pressure control switch in the receiver is faulty or the bypass (check) valve is clogged.

You can try to eliminate the last drawback by removing the cylinder head and cleaning the channels. Replace the defective relay or send it to a specialized center for repair.

Compressor start-up is accompanied by blown fuse or activation of automatic thermal protection

This malfunction occurs if the installed fuse is below the recommended rated power or the supply network is overloaded. In the first case, we check the compliance of the permissible currents, in the second, we disconnect part of the consumers from the electric main.

A more serious cause of the malfunction is incorrect operation of the voltage relay or breakdown of the bypass valve. We bypass the relay contacts according to the scheme, if the engine is running, then the actuator is faulty. In this case, it is more advisable to contact an official service center for technical support or replace the relay yourself.

A drop in compressed air pressure indicates that there is a leak somewhere in the system. Risk areas are: high pressure air line, piston head check valve or receiver outlet cock. We check the entire pipeline with a soapy solution for air leaks. We wrap the detected defects with sealing tape.

The drain cock may leak if not properly closed or defective. If it is closed all the way, and the soapy solution is bubbling on the spout, then we change this part. When screwing in a new one, do not forget to wind up the fum tape on the thread.

In the case of tightness of the air line and the exhaust valve, we conclude that the compressor control valve is not working correctly. For further work, be sure to bleed all the compressed air from the receiver! Next, we continue to repair the compressor with our own hands, disassembling the cylinder head.

If there is dirt or mechanical damage to the bypass valve, we clean it and try to fix the defects. If the malfunction is not eliminated, then we replace the control valve.

This defect occurs when the power supply voltage is too low, the air flow is poor, or the room temperature is too high. We measure the voltage in the network using a multimeter; it must be at least the lower limit of the range recommended by the manufacturer.

Poor air flow into the discharge system is due to a clogged inlet filter. The filter should be replaced or washed according to the unit's maintenance manual. The piston engine is air-cooled and often overheats when in a poorly ventilated area. The problem is solved by moving the compressor unit to a room with good ventilation.

This situation occurs under the following conditions:

• Large accumulation of moisture in the receiver
• Air intake filter dirty
• The humidity in the room of the compressor unit is increased

Moisture in the output stream of compressed air is fought by the following methods:

• Drain excess fluid from the cylinder regularly
• Clean or replace the filter element
• Move the compressor unit to a room with drier air or install additional filter-moisture separators

In general, piston engines are prone to high vibration. But, if the previously relatively quiet compressor unit begins to rumble, there is a high probability that the engine mounting screws are loosened or the material of the vibration cushions is worn out. This malfunction is eliminated by pulling all fasteners in a circle and replacing the polymer vibration isolators.

Interruptions in the operation of the engine can be caused by incorrect operation of the pressure control switch or too intensive extraction of compressed air.

Excessive gas consumption occurs due to a discrepancy between the compressor capacity and the power consumption. Therefore, before buying a new pneumatic tool, carefully study its characteristics and air consumption per unit of time.

Consumers should not take more than 70% of the compressor capacity. If the power of the blower with a margin overlaps the requests of the pneumatic tools, then the pressure switch is faulty. We either repair it or replace it with a new one.

This malfunction occurs as a result of a gas leak in the high pressure system or a clogged air intake filter. Air leakage can be minimized by pulling all butt joints and wrapping them with sealing tape.

Sometimes it happens that when draining condensate from the receiver, they forget to completely close the drain valve, which also leads to a gas leak. This problem is easy to solve - by tightly closing the valve. If the dust filter is clogged, clean it or, even better, replace it with a new one.

Most of the above malfunctions can be avoided by correctly carrying out the first start-up and running-in of the mechanisms, as well as performing regular routine maintenance.

In order for the device to function properly for a long time, the recommended maintenance should be started at the initial stages of operation. Experts recommend the following actions from the date of purchase:

Timely observance of these simple requirements will keep the mechanism in good condition. Such a time-consuming procedure as repairing a compressor with your own hands will be required extremely rarely. Proper grounding will avoid problems with the electrical part of the device. Regular replacement of oil and cleaning filters will prevent premature wear of rubbing parts.

The article provides a repair manual for SCANIA (Scania), which will help you understand all the intricacies of this process.

The manufacturer's warranty for Scania trucks is one year. The first year of operation, these trucks do not give owners absolutely no trouble, although by this time the car has already traveled about 150 thousand km. Minor technical problems arise somewhere in the second or third year of operation. Of course, the operating conditions affect the service life.

As many years of operating experience have shown, there are almost no complaints about bridges, gearboxes and the engine of the Scania R124 G truck. The car is durable and very reliable. But, like any high-tech and complex equipment, it requires timely care, high-quality spare parts, maintenance and repair. We offer a kind of Scania repair manual, which will help you understand in more detail a number of nuances.

As a rule, with a mileage of 400 thousand km, the steering column shaft of the old model "perishes". And when the car passes 500 thousand km, a clutch replacement will be required. The calipers also begin to wedge. The low quality of diesel fuel causes the fuel pump to fail. At 600 thousand km, you need to change the front wheel bearings. But the rear bearings just need to be checked and lubricated if necessary. With further operation, you will have to change parts and carry out complete repairs of Scania, since many units will simply naturally wear out. I advise you to look at spare parts in this online store, there are qualified specialists and affordable prices.

With a mileage of 500-600 thousand km, many truckers perform overhaul of Scania trucks so that it does not cause problems in the future. Overhaul Scania allows you to continue to operate the car, provide cargo transportation in Ukraine, without serious breakdowns for another 500 thousand kilometers.

Maintenance is carried out after 25 thousand km and takes no more than 45 minutes. It includes lubrication of pins, spring pins, SSU, oil level check. This TO allows you to prevent premature Scania repair and replacement of many parts. If the truck is operated under favorable conditions, the TO-X will not be performed.The concept of "favorable operating conditions" means low dustiness of the air, low sulfur content in diesel fuel (less than 0.2%), as well as the absence of deicing agents on the roads (or summer operation). Most of the mechanics of companies that are engaged in cargo transportation in Ukraine and have a large fleet of vehicles serve trucks after 15 thousand km, without waiting for the required 25.

To avoid unnecessary problems with the engine, many carriers use high-quality fuels and lubricants. In order for the Scania truck to start well at low negative temperatures in winter, many ATPs use 10W40 semi-synthetic oil, instead of the 15W40 mineral oil used earlier. Semi-synthetics fade away to a lesser extent, so it has to be topped up in smaller quantities in comparison with mineral oil. Some people use mineral oil in the warm season, and semi-synthetics in winter. Try it and you will feel significant savings on fuel and lubricants.

When evaluating the nominal mileage of a Scania truck, do not forget about the idling of the engine. This is especially true when operating a car in the winter, when the engine runs without load for a long time (during forced downtime of the tractor, when you have to wait a long time for loading or unloading, as well as during queues at customs inspections or weight control). The manufacturer advises using the following calculation scheme:

• 150 h = 10 thousand km
• 300 h = 20 thousand km
• 450 h = 30 thousand km
• 600 h = 40 thousand km
• 750 h = 50 thousand km.

The on-board electrical wiring of the truck must be kept clean and dry at all times. In order to avoid a possible fire, we do not even recommend temporarily using wires of a different resistance and cross-section, instead of the ones used. Pay special attention to the battery. Checking the electrolyte level and density regularly will save you from potential problems when starting the engine. When parked for a long time, it is advisable to use external power sources to charge the battery. When charging, the current strength should be equal to 1/10 of the battery capacity. Even a half state of battery charge can create problems when starting the engine, and lead to unstable operation of the on-board electrical systems.

In the presence of a preheater, in the winter after a long stay with an inoperative engine, turn on the preheater. To make starting the engine easier, you can heat the fuel in the fuel filter with a heat source (except for open fire) or hot water.

The main problem of operating the Scania R124 G diesel engine in winter is diesel fuel waxing. What happens? Wax crystals in the fuel clog the fuel line as well as the pores of the vehicle's fuel filter. The result is a drop in power or a complete stop of the engine. The way out of this situation is the installation of liquid-type heat exchanger heaters in front of the filter element or electric heaters.

The air compressed by the compressor is fed through the cooler coil to the filter separator to remove excess moisture from the system. In winter, moisture that has not been removed freezes, obstructing the passage of air in the system. Before long-term parking of the truck, we recommend draining the formed condensate from the receivers, as well as filling the pneumatic system with air until it is “dumped” with the engine running. This removes residual moisture from the engine block and dryer filter. And no need to repair Scania.

Condensation in the intercooler is also a common problem during winter operation of the new Scania. Moisture can freeze both when the engine is off and during prolonged idling. The formation of condensation in the intercooler with the engine running can be determined by the characteristic white haze coming from the exhaust pipe.To prevent this problem, simply open the engine ventilation system. It should be remembered that if the crankcase ventilation pipe is lowered too low, condensate may freeze. As a result, oil flows through the engine seals, and oil enters the engine intake tract from the turbine. In winter, drivers cover the intercooler (its lower part) with an air- and moisture-proof cloth or material (tarpaulin, linoleum).

A purge is recommended to prevent large amounts of condensate from entering the cylinders. Raise the cab, loosen the clamp on the bellows that goes between the intercooler and the intake manifold. Disconnect the gaiter and place it on the manifold. Next, you need to start the engine and keep the speed at least 1200 min-1 for 5-10 seconds until the moisture is completely removed. Take precautions, do not block the air outlet from the branch pipe.

Perhaps the most reliable part of a Scania truck is the power steering. Only on the Scania of the first series there were problems due to the backlash of the lower cruciform hinge. Sometimes the upper oil seals of the hydraulic booster are leaking on the tractors. If you continue to operate a car with such a malfunction, then the steering bite will first begin, and then the steering column shaft will fail. There are repair kits and spare parts, by the way, and non-original manufacturers. The kit includes a dust ring and an oil seal. There are hydraulic boosters in which a complete disassembly of the unit is required in order to replace the upper gasket.

In order to repair Scania, many different repair kits are produced. JOST saddle and generator repair kits are in regular demand. On Scania 2000-2002, bushings and silent blocks of the four-point cab suspension require regular replacement. Replacing the rear and front suspension bushes of the truck cab, as well as adjusting the locks, can solve the problems with the cab for years to come. In the Scania front suspension, repair kits for the front stabilizer, shock absorber bushings, bearings and cab suspension cushions are regularly required.

When repairing the cab suspension using non-original split bushings, extraneous knocking often occurs. Some drivers change the entire stabilizer right away, although all that is needed is to replace the rubber bushings, stabilizer oil seals and removable bearings. The repair of the stabilizer will last for about 1.5 years of correct operation.

We hope this information will help you. But we wish that Scania repairs bypassed you, as it is now an expensive pleasure.

Freight car service 24 Volta is a friendly team of specialists who know their business, who are in love with their work. The main activity is the maintenance of trucks. Everyone will be able to take advantage of professional help right at the place of car breakdown. We provide a full range of truck maintenance services with a visit to the customer's address. The most common problem that truck owners contact us is the repair of the Scania compressor.

Experts come to the customer with all the necessary tools in order to establish the cause of the breakdown and effectively eliminate it. They will diagnose and, if necessary, replace the Scania compressor. The craftsmen will be able to remove the failed car part on their own and troubleshoot the problem.

Numerous clients have chosen us because we are true professionals. We guarantee:

• high quality;
• availability and installation of only original spare parts;
• efficiency;
• affordable prices;
• warranty for all types of work and installed parts.

Clients of our company are connoisseurs of the best price-quality ratio. If you need repair of the Scania 113 compressor, please contact us.We guarantee that you will be satisfied.

The compressor is the heart of the vehicle's braking system, uses the engine lubrication system and is often part of the engine's water-cooled cooling system. Therefore, there are a number of reasons, direct and indirect, leading to the failure of the compressor:

• Lack of coolant or its non-compliance with technical requirements. This leads to overheating of the compressor and its quick failure.
• Increased emission of oil into the air system. At the same time, it, partially burning, is deposited on the walls of the pipelines, and also enters the dehumidifier and other components of the air system, which causes overheating.
• Failure or incorrect operation of the compressor unloading system.
• Air leaks from the system. If so, the control valve will be forced to connect the compressor to the system more often due to the faster decrease in operating pressure. In this case, the service life of the compressor is drastically reduced, as overheating is possible again.

It should be noted that overheating of the compressor for one reason or another greatly enhances the process of moisture release from the compressed air. At a critical moment, the dehumidifier ceases to cope, and moisture enters all the nodes of the system - and this is unacceptable.

Autotech center "ZAGORETS" has at its disposal all the necessary equipment for diagnostics and repair of pneumatic compressors of Scania trucks of small, medium and large carrying capacity, as well as minibuses. All our work is provided with a 100% guarantee. It is possible for a repair team to leave for diagnostics and minor repairs.

Autotechcenter "ZAGORETS" produces professional diagnostics and repair of pneumatic compressors on trucks and commercial vehicles Scania in a short time and with a quality guarantee. Our masters will advise you on all issues related to the operation, prevention, maintenance of trucks.

Compressors for painting a car, inflating tires or pneumatic tools need regular inspection, maintenance and sometimes repair. This is especially true for reciprocating compressors, in which pistons, rings and other parts require frequent replacement. We will talk about the main problems and how to fix them.

The causes of compressor malfunctions can be forced operation, neglect of service times, design defects, natural wear and tear of operating equipment. So that the broken unit does not slow down the work, we will try to understand the reasons for the failure and correct the situation by doing the repairs ourselves.

A decrease in pressure in the receiver when pumping is stopped indicates that there is a leak somewhere in the system. A soap solution applied to the likely places of leakage will help to detect it:

• compressed air line;
• piston head valve;
• receiver pressure relief valve.

A detected line leak can be sealed with tape and sealant. The tap must be screwed in all the way and, if the soap solution continues to bubble, then the valve is faulty and needs to be replaced. Installed using a sealing FUM tape. If both the route and the valve do not show a leakage, it can be concluded that the problem is in the piston head valve. To get to it, you need to bleed all the air from the receiver and disassemble the cylinder head. If, after cleaning the valve, it does not restore its functions, then it will have to be replaced.