Do-it-yourself Zil 130 compressor repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a Zil 130 compressor from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

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Video (click to play).

Nowadays, you can buy any tool, any mechanism. However, all this costs a lot of money.

For the household needs of the technical school in which I teach, I needed a compressor. But the price range for Chinese-made compressors (far from the best quality) started at eight thousand rubles and grew depending on the improved technical characteristics of the unit.

A two-cylinder air pump-supercharger from a decommissioned ZIL-130 car was taken as a basis, in other words, a compressor from a ZIL-130 was taken. Other components were used from very different, also decommissioned equipment. Receiver with a volume of 60 liters - from the IFA truck (it was like this, it was still produced in the GDR). Electric motor with a power of 3 kW with a speed of 1500 rpm - from the pumping station.

Compressor piston electrical installation:
1- air pump-supercharger (from the ZIL-130 car); 2 electric motor (from a metal-cutting machine. N = 3 kW. N = І500 rpm.); 3 - oil pump (from a metal-cutting machine); 4 receiver (from the IFA truck, Ѵ = 60 l); 5 - oil filter (from the E-150 tractor); 6 - air filter settler; 7 - valve; 8 oil cooling radiator (or ZIL-130 car); 9 - compressor crankcase; 10 - air duct; 11 - air pressure gauge; 12 - tee; 13 - oil pressure gauge; 14 oil line; 15 - "return"; 16 - oil line to the compressor; 17 wheel (2 pcs.); 18 - underwater and outlet hoses to the cooling radiator: 19 automatic AP; 20 - pressure regulator; 21 - driving pulley (electric motor); 22 - driven pulley (pump); 23 - driven pulley (compressor); 24 - high-pressure filter; 25 - oil distributor: 26 oil line connection: 27 - MKxI adjusting screw; 28 - gasket (rubber); 29 - locking screw М8х1; 30 - breather

To clean the oil, an oil filter was used, which was installed on the engine of the T-150 tractor.

The oil pump and the crankshaft of the air pump (blower) are driven by a V-belt drive. The toothed belt and pulley grooves have profile A. As you know, the ZIL-130 compressor is lubricated and cooled from the corresponding systems of the car engine, and therefore we had to solve two problems: autonomously “lubricate” and “cool” the air pump-blower. For lubrication, a gear pump was installed from the emulsion feed station of the lathe. But since this pump has a rather high capacity - about 5 l / min., It was necessary to design a mini-distributor, which sends most of the oil to the "return". The pressure of a part of the oil entering the compressor is controlled by a pressure gauge. Cooling of the air pump-blower is liquid (first antifreeze was poured, and then water) by means of a radiator, which was used as the "stove" of a GAZ-53 car. Continuous operation of the compressor showed the efficiency of the cooling and lubrication system.

Read also: DIY loft repair

Homemade compressor parts: pallet (made of 2mm steel sheet, two millimeters thick), compressor drive pulley and oil distributor. The compressor frame is welded from a corner with dimensions of 50 × 50 mm. A receiver-pressure vessel is attached to it with clamps, and welding is not desirable here. To regulate the pressure in the receiver, a safety valve ("breather") is installed from the pneumatic system of the ZIL-130 vehicle.

Cleans compressed air from extraneous solids filter-sump from the NB-18 machine (guillotine shears).
The maximum pressure created by the unit is -1.2 MPa (12 atm.), And if the pressure in the system is maintained at 0.5 MPa, it can work for several hours without stopping.

The compressor was manufactured in just three days, and the cost of it at the present time turned out to be quite small - about two thousand rubles.

The lubrication system is combined. The lubricant comes from the lubrication unit of the motor system and cools with the coolant.

Detailed description of the Zilovsky compressor. Specifications:

productivity - 210 l;
working volume - 214 cm³;
cylinder size - 60 mm in diameter;
cylinder - 2 pcs.;
power consumption - up to 21.1 kW;
rotation frequency - 2000 rpm;
internal pressure of the pneumatic system - 740 kPa;
the warranty period is 6 months.

The device is made with their own hands on the basis of the Zilovsky compressor. If it is designed for small tasks, then compressor rework will be minimal.Its revision is carried out in the event that the device is planned to be used for a long time and with heavy loads. Of the materials you will need:

engine;
receiver;
pressure gauge;
safety valve.

When making a homemade device, it is important to correctly transfer the torque to the unit. The valve and the pressure gauge, which are mounted on the receiver, are responsible for the pressure. Assembly subtleties:

The compressor is mounted on a bed. For this, the necessary seats for the device are made in the frame. The engine is rigidly fixed to the bed. The rest of the elements that are connected via hoses are mounted separately.

Noise and knocking during operation of the compressor, as well as oil that appears in the air cylinder, indicates a malfunction of the device.

Over time, cracks and chips form on the crankcase block. The crankcase is completely replaced if cracks appear on its walls. Cracks are welded if they are located on the crankcase mounting flange and are small.
To check the tightness of the cylinder, it is placed in a water bath and filled with compressed air. If bubbles appear, then it is considered not sealed. The repair is carried out by boring the container and honing it to the repair size. The block in a detachable state must be solid, without nicks. A deviation of up to 0.04 mm is allowed. Do not allow a 0.05 mm stylus to pass under the straight edge.
The repair size of the pistons is determined by the number stamped on the bottom of the piston. This figure is +04, +0.8.
If ball bearings are worn out, they are compressed and replaced with new ones.
If the connecting rod journals have wear above 0.05 mm, then the crankshaft is completely changed.
To fix the worn upper connecting rod head, press in the repair sleeve, having previously made a hole with a diameter of 14.019 mm.

If the end of the cover and its rear part do not adhere tightly to the body, then during friction they wear out together with the seal. When cracks appear, they are replaced with new parts.

Video uploaded by ARS Pro
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Replacing valves on a ZIL compressor with your own hands

The compressor is used in the garage for painting and inflating tires. Dismantling and troubleshooting.

Plasma cutter or the second life of a broken grinder. This video ends the story with the rework of the grinder gearbox. In the prototype, instead of plasma, there is a conventional gas cutter. I will give links to previous videos in the commentary. Watching the video.

You can efficiently and quickly clean any part, the surface of the structure for further repair or use using sandblasting. But this device requires a compressed air source with the required pressure and capacity. A self-made sandblasting compressor will save you from purchasing expensive and not always reliable enough equipment.

The design based on the compressor from MAZ, ZIL 130 - 157 has established itself as a reliable efficient device. The unit from these cars will require minimal DIY alterations. From MTZ, GAZ is ineffective, and from KamAZ it needs big improvements. The receiver is installed based on the needs for sandblasting - a 50 liter gas cylinder or ready-made from a KamAZ vehicle and smaller from a ZIL, which already have the necessary holes.

The approximate layout of a self-made device and a diagram of the pneumatic connection of the compressor are as follows. The receiver, in a horizontal position, is installed on supports with wheels. A compressor without a bottom cover is installed on a piece of channel with a width of 200 - 250 mm through a paronite gasket. At the opposite end of the channel, through the milled grooves, an electric motor is mounted on the legs. The grooves are necessary for tensioning the belt, which is selected with a small section so that the power loss on the drive is minimal.The channel is attached to the top of the receiver, the wiring from the compressor to the receiver is connected from above and from the end, a pressure control pressure gauge is installed, an overload valve and an outlet fitting with a valve are mounted at the end.

The electric motor is selected depending on the needs. For a 220 V network, the minimum required power of a three-phase electric motor is 1.5 kW, revolutions - 1420 rpm. The required gear ratio between the motor shaft and the compressor pulley in this case is 1: 3. At high power, the ratio is reduced - the productivity increases. For a 220 V supply, 2.2 kW is optimal. By using 380V (3 phase), the power can be reduced.

The outer diameter of the pulleys of automotive units is approximately 210 mm. In the case of a 1.1 kW motor with an 80 mm pulley, the gear ratio is 210/80 = 2.6. The electric motor will operate at maximum power at a pressure of 8 atm. The capacity of 260 l / min (maximum) is obtained at 2500 rpm of the compressor shaft. By changing the ratio, you can reach 3200 rpm - the maximum speed of the unit on the ZIL 130.

In the case, in a convenient place, 10 mm lower than the center of the crankshaft, a hole is drilled for filling the oil. A thread is cut under the plug. At the bottom of the channel, a threaded hole is made for the oil drain plug. On the side opposite to the pulley, a fitting with an oil-resistant hose or tube is screwed into the bearing cover, which is connected to a container that serves as an expansion reservoir for lubricant and a breather. You can use a clutch reservoir for brake fluid from a VAZ. It is located opposite the cylinder head of the unit. To install the fitting, the inlet valve of the car line is unscrewed.

The crankshaft lubrication system is changed: they are drilled in each connecting rod with inserts in the assembly, 2 countersunk holes at the transition from the rod to the lower head of the connecting rod. Drilled one at a time in the connecting rod caps. For holes D 3mm, countersink 10mm, direction of drilling to the center of the shaft. You will need to disassemble the compressor - remove the head, unscrew the connecting rods. The resulting holes will provide the bushings with splash lubrication. The cylinders are lubricated during operation due to the resulting oil mist.

The unloading device of the unit (soldier) remains the factory one - it will allow you to regulate the pressure at which the unit will turn off. The discharge tube must be connected to the supply receiver (if there are more than one). Automotive pressure gauge and overload valve are also recommended.

To turn off the engine when the compressor is idling with your own hands, you can provide for automatic on / off. Between the unloading channel and the pressure regulator of the automotive unit, you will need to insert a threshold pressure sensor - a VK12B brake light switch from UAZ, GAZ, and so on. Its catalog number is 40P-37210010. The control circuit will become easier if a pressure sensor is found, the contacts of which open when pressure is applied. In order for a self-assembled compressor to work more smoothly, a balanced flywheel should be installed on the pulley of the automotive unit.

For normal operation, a cooling system is not required - when operating at constant speed, the unit rarely heats up to more than 60 ° C. On a car, its operating temperature is 90 ° C, but 120 ° C is not critical. In case of strenuous operation, it is possible to make an evaporative-type cooling system. A container of 4 - 5 liters is installed above the level of the head, the hoses are connected on the compressor to the inlet-outlet for the coolant. This will keep the temperature below 100 ° C.

Image - Do-it-yourself Zil 130 compressor repair

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City: Gorny settlement, Novosibirsk region
Name: Pyotr Mikhailovich B.

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        City: Ulyanovsk
        
        Name: Valentine
        
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        City: Ulyanovsk
        
        Name: Valentine
        
        Members
        
        8,244 posts
        
        City: Ulyanovsk
        
        Name: Valentine
        
        For zybav About the elimination of excessive oil pressure.
        
        Make a branch, even through the otv. f5, cover this hole with a ball f8. The ball is pressed against the hole by a spring. The spring force will determine the pressure that will not be exceeded. All this is inside the branch tube that goes to the crankcase. When assembling, you need to hit the ball for density.
        
        Read also: DIY bicycle gearshift repair
        The compressor crankcase must have a breather, or squeeze out, for example, oil seals.
        
        Members
        
        37 posts
        
        City: Ternopil Ukraine
        
        Name: Pavel
        
        here is my version of the compressor from zil.
        before the construction, a lot of information was filtered about homemade compressors
        I needed a compressor for garage needs (pump, blow, etc.)
        after finding a suitable engine to build.
        the design was supposed to be extremely simple without any pump radiators, etc.
        
        the first step was the completion of the compressor itself (taken from scrap metal)
        halved the pallet:
        
        new inserts and rings were purchased
        after which the revision of the connecting rod (three holes):
        
        Members
        
        37 posts
        
        City: Ternopil Ukraine
        
        Name: Pavel
        
        instead of the receiver, a propane tank was taken, it is also instead of the frame.
        the tube from the compressor to the receiver, together with the fittings, was taken from the hydraulic system of the household equipment.
        the automation was completely purchased from a Chinese compressor, which I later regretted (the quality sucks)
        bistrozemnye connections have also been purchased, by the way, I have never been interested in pneumatics, but it turns out that Epicenter (building hypermarket) has everything.
        wheels from a wheelbarrow whose cans with milk were transported on the collective farm.
        fitting after welding of all moorings.
        
        Post has been editedpavel ternopol: 29 September 2011 - 22:35
        
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        8,244 posts
        
        City: Ulyanovsk
        
        Name: Valentine
        
        pavel ternopol (today 09:31 pm) wrote:
        
        Members
        
        37 posts
        
        City: Ternopil Ukraine
        
        Name: Pavel
        
        the valve of the cylinder has a tapered pipe thread 34, an ordinary 34 is screwed into it without problems, that is, a water and gas supply 20.
        there is a fitting for 14 pipes and 12 pipes. by means of an adapter from 34 to 12 the corresponding fitting is screwed in without any regrinding.
        the lubrication system is as simple as a door: the oil tank at the sump level is connected by a hose to the crankcase in two places: above and below, so that the oil level in the compressor can be observed in it.
        
        the compressor is cooled by passing intake air through the cooling jacket. sorry for the quality of the photo (mobile)
        
        at the beginning of the intake there is an oil filter from the Zhiguli that filters the air.
        
        the motor turns on in 3 phases and there are no problems with starting.
        the truth turned out to be a gross miscalculation on the engine, since there was no shyldik, the engine was supposed to be 3000 rpm, but it turned out to be 1500. 🙁
        productivity dropped accordingly.
        here's what happened after painting:
        
        Quite often, car owners are faced with a situation where, after a small traffic accident, as a result of which the paintwork has been damaged, minor body repairs are required.
        
        There are usually no problems with a straightening tool, but not everyone has compressor equipment for painting. In this case, you can use the ZIL-130 compressor, which will not be difficult to assemble with your own hands.
        
        Most home craftsmen believe that a homemade unit is more reliable than Chinese counterparts. In addition, you can buy a repair kit for a Zilovsky compressor in almost any auto parts store.
        
        The compressor is a complex mechanism similar in structure to an internal combustion engine. It consists of a cylinder block, a crankcase, a cylinder head, a piston group, a crankshaft, valves, a pair of plungers, two rods and a drive pulley.
        
        During the downward movement of the piston, a vacuum is created in the cylinder, at the same time the intake valve opens and a portion of air enters the cylinder cavity, which is purified through the air filter.
        
        The air is compressed when the piston is raised to the upper position, as a result of which the discharge valve opens, through which air enters the head chamber. To maintain a stable pressure in the system, a special unloader valve is installed on the compressor, which operates in automatic mode.
        
        The compressor cooling system is combined with the common engine circuit. Water or antifreeze is used as a coolant.
        
        The units are lubricated by supplying oil from the main line of the engine through the oil line, which is supplied to the compressor crankshaft. Its backflow occurs from the crankcase through the oil line to the sump of the engine.
        
        To create the necessary supply of compressed air, two air cylinders are installed on the car frame, the volume of which is sufficient for 8 brakes even in the absence of air supply from the compressor. At the bottom of the cylinders there are special taps for condensate drainage.
        
        First you need to purchase the compressor itself, as well as a propane cylinder. An electric motor with a power of 2-3 kW is used as a drive. The frame is assembled from a steel corner, and clamps, self-tapping screws and bolts are used to fasten the nodes.
        
        The only improvement needed to keep the compressor running autonomously is the sump, which is missing from the standard design. It can be made from sheet metal 5 mm thick. A gasket and sealant are used to seal the junction of the pallet with the compressor crankcase.
        
        To ensure an uninterrupted supply of oil to the internal components of the compressor, it will be necessary to carry out a certain fine-tuning of the units: holes with a diameter of 10 mm must be drilled in the connecting rods and liners. This will provide maximum lubricant access to the crank mechanism. To drain and fill oil, two holes are made in the crankcase and a thread is cut - special plugs will be screwed in here.
        
        The air system is connected to the painting area with a copper tube, since the air from the compressor comes out pretty hot. Therefore, the use of plastic and rubber joints is not recommended.
        
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        A stable pressure must be maintained in the air system for the spray gun to function properly. If the air supply is unstable, which leads to a drop in pressure in the air system, several additional receivers should be installed.
        
        Do-it-yourself assembly of the pumping mechanism based on the ZIL-130 compressor is distinguished by its ease of installation and minimal time and cost. Therefore, it is within the power of anyone who knows how to handle locksmith tools and is able to correctly draw up a drawing of a compressor installation.
        
        The best basis for creating a do-it-yourself painting compressor is ZIL 130, the compressor of which is structurally most suitable for this. For body painting, the use of a compressor is important, as it improves the quality and strength of the applied layer, increases productivity. In addition, it can be used to inflate tires, supply air to pneumatic tools.
        
        In view of the considerable cost of the compressor, it is impractical to purchase a device for "one-time" painting of your car, and not everyone can afford it. Craftsmen are capable of making such a device with their own hands.
        
        Today's market for pressure boosting and air injection devices abounds in variety. For various purposes, screw, piston and other types of compressors are produced.Those who have made a choice in favor of a ready-made device should choose the type of mechanism with the required technical characteristics and at the best price.
        
        Of the whole variety of products offered, of course, it is better to choose products from well-known brands. Their main disadvantage is their high cost. Large spending money will pay off only when engaged in professional car repair.
        
        If you buy a cheap device of an unknown brand, you need to be prepared for unpleasant surprises. Inexpensive products are often made of low-quality materials, the engine breaks down, and warranty repairs last several months.
        
        The unit, made by hand from Zilovsky (ZIL 130), is considered by many craftsmen to be more reliable. According to numerous reviews, such a device has good performance, strength, and durability.
        
        In addition, a repair kit for a Zilovsky compressor can be purchased at every auto parts store. A self-made solid device that works for a long time and properly will delight its owner and become the envy of many motorists.