DIY computer mouse repair logitech

In detail: do-it-yourself computer mouse repair Logitech from a real wizard for the site my.housecope.com.

Computer mouse - probably everyone knows what it is. This is a manipulator or coordinate input device for controlling the cursor and giving various commands to the computer. Over time, this device has various malfunctions: damage to the stranded wire, the sensor often jams, the mouse wheel (scroll) is scrolled, the mouse buttons do not work, etc.

Let's look at the DIY repair of the most popular computer manipulator - a mouse!

The mouse is technically a fairly simple device, so it can be easily repaired by hand. If you know how to handle a soldering iron at least a little, then this will allow you to fix almost any broken mouse. However, even if you are not friends with a soldering iron, you can fix some typical damage to the mouse with a minimal set of tools:

Now there are several types of computer mice, which differ in the principle of operation (roller, optical or laser), the number of buttons (3 or more), and the type of connection (PS / 2, USB or wireless (with a USB adapter)). However, the most common are optical ones with a USB or PS / 2 connection.

We usually disassemble the mouse using a small Phillips screwdriver. To do this, turn the mouse upside down, find and unscrew one or more screws that hold it together. If the screws are not visible, then they, most often, are hidden under stickers or stand-legs:

Usually the screws only hold the back of the mouse. The front part (where the buttons are), most often, is fixed by means of special grooves. To remove the top cover from these grooves, you need to lift it slightly by the freed back part and slowly pull it towards you. You can still press a little more on it from the front, but the main thing is not very hard, otherwise you will break! The grooves on the top cover of the mouse and the pins that held them in place:

Video (click to play).

When you remove the top cover, you will find a small PCB underneath, which is usually only fixed on small plastic pins (although it could be screwed to the case). Wires (if the mouse is wired), buttons, a scroll mechanism, as well as a complex of a backlight LED and a sensitive optical sensor will be soldered to this board:

To completely disassemble the mouse, we need to pull the printed circuit board out of it and disconnect the scroll wheel (it can be easily pulled out of the encoder slots).

Most often, when connected to a computer, the mouse either does not work at all, or the cursor movement twitches or disappears, if one of the wires is frayed or cut off somewhere (if, of course, the mouse is wired).

A typical optical mouse usually has 4 to 6 wires of different colors. The colors and number of wires depend on the specific manufacturer, however, there is also a standard:

Color scheme for wiring mouse wires

Nutrition - red (other options: golden, orange, blue, white).

Receiving data - white (other options: blue, orange, yellow, green).

Data transfer - green (other options: golden blue, yellow, red, blue).

Land - black (other options: golden green, green, white, blue).

You can unambiguously judge the correct wiring by looking at the letter marking of the wires in the place where they are soldered to the printed circuit board (unless, of course, they are torn off the board). Breakage and chafing of wires most often happens in places where the wire is bent at the exit from the mouse case. You can indirectly check the presence of a break by pulling out the wire and trying to bend it in questionable places (it will be easier to bend at the break). However, in order to judge for sure, you will have to remove the insulation by carefully cutting it with a blade.

Having found the place where the wiring is interrupted, you need to restore their integrity by soldering or twisting. I personally prefer a twist I will give a photo of the finished twist, how it should look:

After splicing the wires, insulate them from each other with electrical tape or tape. You can try. In order not to burn the port, you need to connect or disconnect the mouse when the computer is turned off! To eliminate all doubts with a break, try ringing all the contacts of the USB (or PS / 2) plug with a multimeter. After the repair, the mouse should work.

Often there is also a situation when we cannot accurately hover the cursor at a certain point. It constantly shivers and moves by itself. This situation clearly indicates clogging of the optical group of the mouse. The blockage is most often external. Dust or hair gets into the compartment where the light from the diode reflects off the table.

To get rid of such a blockage, you don't even need to disassemble the mouse. It is enough to turn it over and blow it out. As a last resort, use a small brush to remove stuck-on debris.

If, after such manipulations, the mouse cursor trembles, then, most likely, either the sensor is clogged inside, or is completely out of order.

In any case, you can try to disassemble the mouse and clean the sensor with a toothpick with a cotton swab soaked in alcohol wrapped around it:

Optical sensor of a computer mouse

Before cleaning the sensor with a cotton swab, you can also try blowing it out to blow out fine dust that may adhere after it gets wet. After that, gently, without pressing, insert the toothpick with rotational movements into the hole of the sensor. After making a couple of turns and not stopping to rotate, we take out the toothpick, wait for the alcohol to dry and try to connect the mouse.

If, after all attempts to clean, the sensor does not work normally, then if you have another mouse, a soldering iron and straight hands, you can remove the non-working microcircuit and replace it with a sensor from another mouse.

It so happens that the mouse works fine, but when we try to use its wheel, the page we are scrolling starts to jump up and down, or does not want to scroll at all. Alas, the failure of the mouse wheel is a fairly frequent breakdown and it was she who prompted me to write this article. First you need to carefully consider how evenly the wheel spins in the groove. The groove itself and the axle of the wheel have a hexagonal cross-section, but sometimes one or more sides of this hexagon can deform, as a result of which the axle will slip in the problem area.

Read also: DIY Philips shaver repair

If you have just such a problem, then it is solved by sealing the edge of the wheel axle with tape or electrical tape in small quantities. If everything is normal with the movement of the wheel, then a breakdown has occurred inside the encoder (scroll sensor). From prolonged use, it could loosen and it should be slightly compacted:

Pressing the mouse scroll mechanism latches

To do this, take small pliers and, one by one, press them down on the four metal brackets that attach the encoder to the plastic parts of the scroll mechanism. The main thing here is not to overdo it and not break the fragile plastic, but at the same time squeeze harder. Try plugging in your mouse and see if the negative effect of scrolling has diminished after each press. Alas, in my case, it was not possible to completely get rid of jerks.Yes, the frequency and variation in page jumps has decreased, but the jumps themselves have not completely disappeared. Then I decided to approach the issue of sealing radically and truly in Russian. Cut out a piece of thin but dense polyethylene from the old battery pack and stuck it inside the mechanism:

A seal inserted inside the mouse scroll mechanism

Most interestingly, this manipulation helped! I just have to cut off the extra length of the strip and assemble the mouse

There are several more options:

disassemble and clean the mechanism;
replace the mechanism with a different mouse (with a different malfunction).

Any button has its own resource of clicks. Usually the contact at the left mouse button disappears. The mouse has several buttons: left, right and under the wheel. They are all usually the same. The broken button is practically not repaired in any way, but it can be replaced from another mouse.

Bottom view of soldered mouse button microswitch

The microswitch has three "legs", the first of which is free, and the other two are contacts that need to be soldered. Sometimes the button still works, but it doesn't work every time it is pressed. This symptom may indicate that frequent use has worn off the edge of the button pusher that presses the microswitch or poor contact inside the contact pad switch.

We disassemble the mouse and carefully study the problem button and its pusher. If we see a small dent, then the problem may be in it. It is enough to fill the washed area with a drop of epoxy resin or molten plastic. At the same time, while the switch is disassembled, you can clean the contact group.

The last problem you may encounter is that the mouse button double-clicks when you click on it - the so-called bounce of contacts. You can solve this matter by re-soldering the microswitch or ... programmatically!

In any case, before taking on the soldering iron, check the correctness of the mouse settings in the Windows Control Panel:

Standard mouse properties as they should be

By default, the double-click speed slider should be centered and the sticky mouse button option disabled. Try to set these parameters and check if the problem is solved. If not, another radical software way to "cure" a double click is to remove the mouse driver.

Mouse - one of the most actively used computer devices. Therefore, it is not surprising that they often fail. However, due to the simplicity of their device, in most cases everyone can fix the mouse! You don't need to be able to solder or understand electronics to do this.

The main thing is to clearly diagnose the cause of the breakdown. Here, as in medicine, a correct diagnosis is the path to a successful repair. I hope our article will allow you to determine what exactly broke in your mouse, and therefore, to fix the breakdown.

It is impossible to imagine a repairman's workbench without a handy, inexpensive digital multimeter.

This article describes the device of the 830 series digital multimeters, its circuit, as well as the most common malfunctions and how to fix them. More details ...

Many people use electric sewing machines. It happens that electric drives of sewing machines, both domestic and imported, fail. Replacing an electric drive is expensive, but you can often repair an electric motor or a pedal yourself with your own hands, saving a lot of money.

Why does the line transistor fail? A line transistor knocks out for two main reasons:

The first- thermal breakdown due to a change in the shape of the start pulses of the line transistor. A short circuit in a line transformer (PBT) can also cause thermal breakdown.
The second- voltage breakdown mainly due to the power supply unit and microcracks.

Once upon a time, I bought a Logitech Performance MX mouse. I bought it at random because I liked it externally. And it seemed to fit comfortably in my hand. And she turned out to be so successful that he used it for many years and did not know grief. How many exactly - I will not say.I remember that I bought at the White Wind, which closed in the fall of 2014. And I seemed to be buying two years before, immediately taking both the luminous K800 keyboard and the G700 gaming mouse in reserve.

It seemed that the Performance MX was not drifting. But two weeks ago I began to notice double clicks. That is, just like a Gillette razor: I make one click, and the mouse makes two.

Honestly, I was depressed. Because the K800 managed to buy a backup for the favorite keyboard just in case, but somehow it didn't work out exactly the same mouse. Others are a little different and less pleasing.

What to do? Run to the store for a new one? I complained about the problem in social networks, and then I was told that my problem is massive. And it lies in the switch responsible for the button, where the contacts are corny oxidized. If you clean them up, everything will work as new. Because nothing else breaks in the Performance MX.

The web has detailed instructions on how to fix everything (). This is a simple procedure, but it requires precision and special tools. At a minimum, a thin, grippy tweezers and a thin flat screwdriver. First you need to very carefully remove the Teflon pads on the bottom of the mouse, under which the screws are hidden. Neatness is very important because the pads are easily damaged and will not slide normally when returned. On eBay, however, you can buy spare. The left - 200 rubles, the original - 1500.

When the mouse is disassembled, you will see two switches. This is where the problem lies. The saddest thing is that this switch costs 20 cents with shipping and spoils a $ 100 mouse. The switch must be carefully opened (see the instructions), the contacts must be cleaned with something sharp (with the same screwdriver) and the thin "rocker" must be carefully put back in place. It took me forty minutes.

And the problem was gone! The double click did not appear anymore.

True, I seem to have been a little too clever with the "rocker", as a result of which the click on the left button became harsh. You can use it, but ... not ideal. So I ordered new switches and a set of stickers from eBay. When he arrives, I will re-solder the switch.

But on the whole, the problem can be solved quite easily. And given the fact that nothing breaks at all in this mouse, a penny repair can extend the service life very, very significantly.

Mouse repair - the process of restoring the operability of the most popular computer manipulator. The mouse is technically a fairly simple device, so it can be easily repaired at home.

If you know how to handle a soldering iron, then this will allow you to fix almost any broken mouse. However, even if you are not friends with a soldering iron, you can fix some typical damage to the mouse with a minimal set of tools, such as a screwdriver, pliers, scissors, etc.

In the article below, we will look at the most common optical mouse breakdowns and how to repair them at home.

If your computer mouse is broken, do not rush to buy a new one. It is quite possible that you yourself will be able to fix the breakdown and the device will serve you for more than one year.

You can connect many different devices to a computer, however, there are two, without which it will be impossible to work with it. The first is the keyboard, without which the PC, most often, will not even boot. The second is the mouse. Without it, the computer, in principle, can be controlled, but doing it from the keyboard is very inconvenient.

Throughout the history of the development of computer technology, a huge number of different manipulators have been invented and used: trackpads, joysticks, touchpads, etc. However, nothing simpler and more convenient to the well-known mouse has not yet been invented!

The mouse is good for everyone, however, over time, like any technique, it can break down.Fortunately, standard mice are fairly simple in design and can be repaired at home, even by people far from electronics! If your mouse has recently begun to junk, I hope our article will help you fix it.

Nowadays, there are several types of computer mice, which differ in the principle of operation (roller, optical or laser), the number of buttons (from 3 and above), as well as the type of connection (PS / 2, USB or wireless (with a USB adapter)). However, the most common are optical ones with a USB or PS / 2 connection.

Such mice are relatively inexpensive (not much more expensive than roller mice, but much cheaper than laser ones) and at the same time have a sufficiently high accuracy, which will be enough for most users. By the way, the photo above is just a manipulator of this type. He had a broken scroll wheel, which prompted me to write this article 🙂

However, let's not get ahead of ourselves, but consider what kind of breakdowns occur in optical mice most often:

As you can see, there are not so many typical breakdowns of a computer mouse. If you correctly identify the symptoms of problems, then they can be quickly localized and eliminated. Therefore, we will not rant for a long time, but get down to business.

To perform any kind of mouse repair, first of all, you need to disassemble it. This is usually done with a small Phillips screwdriver. To do this, turn the mouse upside down, find and unscrew one or more screws that hold it together. If the screws are not visible, then they, most often, are hidden under stickers or stand-legs:

When you remove the top cover, under it you will find a small printed circuit board, which, usually, is fixed only on small plastic pins (although it can be screwed to the case. Wires (if the mouse is wired), buttons, a scroll mechanism, as well as a complex of LED and a sensitive photosensor:

To completely disassemble the mouse, we need to pull the printed circuit board out of it and disconnect the scroll wheel (it can be easily pulled out of the encoder slots). We are ready for initial inspection and repair!

Most often, when connected to a computer, the mouse does not work at all, if it is frayed somewhere or one of the wires is cut off (if, of course, the mouse is wired). A typical optical mouse usually has 4 to 6 wires of different colors. The colors and number of wires depend on the specific manufacturer, however, there is also a standard:

Food - red (options: golden, orange, blue, white).
Data reception - white (options: blue, orange, yellow, green).
Data transfer - green (options: golden blue, yellow, red, blue).
Earth - black (options: golden green, green, white, blue).

Breakage and chafing of wires most often happens in places where the wire is bent at the exit from the mouse case. You can indirectly check the presence of a break by pulling out the wire and trying to bend it in questionable places (it will be easier to bend at the break). However, in order to judge for sure, you will have to remove the insulation by carefully cutting it with a blade.

Having found the place where the wiring is interrupted, you need to restore their integrity by soldering or twisting. I personally prefer twisting 🙂 You can read how to splice stranded wires correctly here, and here I will just give a photo of the finished twist, how it should look:

After splicing the wire, try connecting the mouse to your computer - it should work. If it doesn't work, then there can be two options: either the cable is interrupted in one more place, or it's time to throw out the mouse 🙂

To exclude the option with another break, try ringing all the contacts of the USB (or PS / 2) plug using a multitester or other device (you can find out about the methods of dialing, again, from the article about crimping a twisted pair).

The blockage is most often external. Dust or hair gets into the compartment where the light from the diode reflects off the table. To get rid of such a blockage, you don't even need to disassemble the mouse. It is enough to turn it over and blow it out. As a last resort, use a small brush to remove stuck-on debris.

If, after such manipulations, the mouse cursor trembles, then, most likely, either the sensor is clogged inside, or is completely out of order. In any case, you can try to disassemble the mouse and clean the sensor with a toothpick with a cotton swab soaked in alcohol wrapped around it:

First you need to carefully consider how evenly the wheel spins in the groove. The groove itself and the axle of the wheel have a hexagonal cross-section, but sometimes one or more sides of this hexagon can deform, as a result of which the axle will slip in the problem area.

Alas, in my case, it was not possible to completely get rid of jerks. Yes, the frequency and variation in page jumps has decreased, but the jumps themselves have not completely disappeared. Then I decided to approach the issue of sealing radically and truly in Russian 🙂 I cut out a piece of thin but dense polyethylene from the old battery packaging and stuck it inside the mechanism:

Most interestingly, this manipulation helped! I just have to cut off the extra length of the strip and assemble the mouse 🙂

The last, and most annoying, breakdown is a non-working button. Whether the left one, the right one, or the one under the wheel is not important - they are all usually the same. The important thing is that the non-working button is practically not repaired in any way.You can only replace its microswitch by unsoldering a non-working one with a soldering iron and replacing it with a new one or borrowed from another mouse.

The microswitch has three “legs”, the first of which is a regular latch, and the other two are contacts that need to be soldered. The latch does not need to be soldered. It only serves as “foolproof” so that you don't insert the microswitch in the wrong direction by mistake.

Sometimes the button still works, but it doesn't work every time it is pressed. Such a symptom may indicate that frequent use has worn off the edge of the button pusher that presses the microswitch.

The last problem you may encounter is that the mouse button double-clicks when you click on it. This case can be solved by soldering the microswitch or. programmatically! In any case, before taking on the soldering iron, check the correctness of the mouse settings in the Windows Control Panel:

By default, the double-click speed slider should be centered and the sticky mouse button option disabled. Try to set these parameters and check if the problem is solved. If not, another radical software way to “cure” double-clicking is to remove the mouse driver. How to remove the driver correctly is written here.

Mice are one of the most actively used computer devices. Therefore, it is not surprising that they often fail. However, due to the simplicity of their device, in most cases everyone can fix the mouse!

You don't need to be able to solder or understand electronics to do this. The main thing is to clearly diagnose the cause of the breakdown. Here, as in medicine, a correct diagnosis is the path to a successful repair.

I hope our article will allow you to determine what exactly broke in your mouse, and therefore, to fix the breakdown. Successful repairs to you!

The mouse manipulator plays a significant role in the life of a modern person, and its failure at the wrong time can be a hassle if there is no store or a spare tailed beast nearby. In this article, we will look at the main breakdowns of computer mice and how to fix them yourself. All currently available mice can be divided into wired and wireless. We will not divide into optical and ball ones, we just note that among the optical ones, laser mice are singled out as more accurate. Also, optical manipulators are of the visible spectrum (emit red light) and infrared spectrum, the efficiency of the emitter of the latter can be determined, for example, using a mobile phone camera.

To repair a computer mouse, we need:

screwdriver
nippers (side cutters)
multimeter
soldering iron and solder
heat shrink tubing or other consumables, depending on the type of detected breakdown

The mouse is one of the devices, the reliability of which has been brought to a high level (we are talking about devices produced by well-known brands, for example, I like the quality of A4-tech and Logitech products, and absolutely do not like the quality of Gembird cords and buttons). Nevertheless, there are also weaknesses in this miracle of technology. Typical breakdowns of mice include the following:

break (break) of the wire
button failure
broken scroll wheel.

In 90% of cases, the breakdown of a wired mouse is associated with the bending of the wire at the base of the manipulator. This is due to the fact that it is in this place that the wire is constantly bending when you move the mouse over the working surface. The signs of this breakdown are intermittent operation, or operability only with a certain "kink" of the wire. For compact "laptop" manipulators with a spring-loaded coil in the middle of the wire, wire breaks near the usb connector are also characteristic.Repairing a broken wire is simple: making sure that you have localized the breakage, bite off the wire a couple of centimeters higher and lower from the damaged area with wire cutters. Next, we solder both tails, observing the color scheme, wires. Do not forget to insulate them with a heat-shrinkable tube or electrical tape (in extreme cases, wrapping each wire in several layers of adhesive tape).

Finally, you have to fix the wire at the base of the mouse for this, you can carefully cut the original rubber "cable gland", remove the old one from it, insert a new cable and pour in a little glue, it also does not hurt to glue the cable to the board or the case. For the purpose of further maintainability, I use hot melt glue. How it looks after renovation, see the photo.

Incorrect practice of clicks on the mouse buttons can have several different reasons, you can find out the reason practically "by ear and by touch." The most common causes of button problems are:

In the case of problems with the scroll wheel, there are 2 main reasons for their occurrence:

Problems caused by knob operation. Outwardly, they manifest themselves in uneven scrolling, which is accompanied by jerks of the page up and down. This problem is solved by carefully opening the knob and removing dust from the contacts. Another option is to loosen the attachment of the rotary encoder basket to its base. You can watch how to tighten the mount in this video clip
Problems caused by mechanical damage to the wheel axle. If you overdid it and broke the axle, do not despair, there are several options for eliminating this breakdown: you can find a self-tapping screw of a suitable diameter, grind its head, creating a kind of hexagon (trying it on to the knob so that there are no cranks) and, while heating on fire, screw it in instead of the missing part of the axle. The second option is to find a hex key that fits exactly into the knob hole, cut it off along the length of the axis, carefully drill a hole in the scroll wheel and insert your new axis.

I have not yet repaired many of them, but a couple of directions for finding breakdowns can be voiced:

This mouse is very easy to disassemble. The entire body is supported by a single screw. Most other mice have two of them. This mouse is wireless. It included a bluetooth connection adapter and batteries. The device works like most computer mice from 1.5 volts. But it costs two batteries so that the power is greater and the operating life is also longer. First I unscrewed the screw and removed the case. There was only a board with radio components and batteries.

I started looking at the reasons for the inoperability of the button and wheel. As it turned out, the wheel did not work due to the fact that one of the three wires was torn off. But just in case, I re-soldered all the wires to avoid re-breaking the mouse in this direction. There is still one more problem. It was necessary to find the reason why the enter button did not work.

At first I could not guess for a long time. But then I decided to change the mechanisms of the buttons in places. As it turned out, another button just stopped working. The whole problem was in the button mechanism. Fortunately, there was another unnecessary computer mouse at home. From it he took the button. Soldered a new one.

Everything seemed to be fine. But when soldering, I damaged the connection track of the button mechanism. I had to connect the beginning and end of the connection with a wiring of short length. I connected and collected everything.

I inserted the batteries, connected the adapter to the computer - it worked. Maybe you have the same reason for not working a wireless computer mouse, so do not rush to throw it away, try at least to disassemble and carefully examine it. Max was with you.

It is clear that we will not repair the click, but the Logitech MX Revolution mouse button, or rather the mic that lies under it. The crux of the problem is that the click began to fail. Instead of a single click, when pressed, the button worked like a double, or stuck, as if the button that had been pressed for a long time remained pressed.

The mouse is good, very comfortable and expensive enough to just throw it away and buy a new one.Therefore, at first there were experiments with reinstalling SetPoint of different versions according to the results of which it became finally clear that the problem was purely mechanical. Googling also confirmed the unfortunate fact of the weakness of Mikrik in Logitech mice. Although, it is worth noting that another copy of the previous top mouse from Logitech has already been living in the mode of extremely aggressive use for about 5 years and there are no problems with the mikrik.

To do this, unscrew 4 bolts on her belly, which are hidden under the blotches. Try to peel off the patches carefully. The adhesive layer stubbornly remains on the belly. And do not bend them, if later there are creases on the blotches, then it will be problematic to align them. After unscrewing the bolts, the top cover can be easily removed, but it is connected to the bottom with a loop. The long loop does not interfere with the repair of the mikrika, but if desired, it can be disconnected.

Model D2FC-F-7N. By the way, googling this number gave some very interesting links. They will be at the end of the article. It was not possible to find these mikriki on the net in Moscow stores. On ebee they are at a price of $ 3 per pair. Also, such mikriks were used in other Logitech mice, respectively, if you have a dead one lying around somewhere, you can drop the mikrik from the old mouse and re-solder it into a new one.

This is not difficult to do. Pry off the cover with a thin screwdriver or knife, first from one side, then from the other, remove the cover. When we remove the cover, a button falls out of it. Try not to lose it. The button is inserted back into the cover with its long end.

The essence of the sticky button problem is that the tongue of this head gets tired. The plate must be removed, the tongue must be slightly bent and the plate must be inserted back.

The most difficult part of the whole repair is just putting the record back. It is small, bends easily, it must be inserted so that there is tension so that the right end of the plate is tightly pressed against the upper contact on the right.

It took me about five minutes to disassemble the mouse, and it took me half an hour to install the record for the first time. Then I took apart the mouse twice more to make the click more intelligible. But in the end the mouse works. As a bonus, the click is quieter.

In conclusion, a few helpful links that helped me a lot.
I highly recommend looking at the links before starting the repair, especially in terms of bending the tongue.
Detailed photos of the Logitech MX Revolution disassembly, repair of a mikrik from another mouse, and more about mikrik.

If a computer mouse breaks, many users don't know how to get on with it. The session ends and the search for a new device begins or the restoration of the broken thing to work. With basic knowledge of electrical engineering and the ability to work with a soldering iron, you can repair your wireless mouse very quickly. Consider a step-by-step method for determining the causes of a device malfunction and restoring its resource.

In most cases, the cause of the malfunction will not be critical, because modern laser mice are made from reliable electronic components.

Loss of functionality can occur due to:

damage to the USB connector of the computer;
poor-quality contact in the power and control parts of the board;
breakdown of an electronic element;
breakdown of microswitches.

Before starting work, it is necessary to pull out the wireless module from the computer, set the mouse switch to the “off” position and remove the battery. It would be nice to check the battery right away. If everything is in order with her, then we proceed to repair the mouse.

To determine the health of a computer's USB, it is enough to connect a USB flash drive or keyboard to it. If a sync signal appears on the monitor screen, the port is operational. To check the status of the wireless unit with a USB connector, you need to connect similar test leads of the tester, which is in the diode test mode, to the plus and minus inputs of the plug. If the multimeter displays figures from 500 - 700 Ohm, then the module is operational. Of course, this method only indirectly determines the state of the device and does not guarantee one hundred percent confirmation of its serviceability.

To inspect the electronic components of the mouse, you need to disassemble its case. To do this, it is enough to unscrew the fasteners, which are located either under the battery or under the sticker with the device parameters. Then, using a flat-tipped screwdriver, separate the latches located under the left and right mouse buttons.

Visually or using a device, the following are checked:
- food stamps for the presence of oxide and deformation;
- the reliability of fastening and the integrity of the connecting wires on the stamps and the circuit board;
- electronic parts for external damage.

All identified defects are eliminated. A working mouse should have a resistance measured at the power outputs by the tester in the diode test mode, from 400 to 600 ohms. If the readings are equal to one, then there is an open circuit in the circuit, if zero - a short circuit (short circuit).

If it breaks, use tweezers to shake all the components on the board. Perhaps, in some node there is a violation of the soldered connection. In case of a short circuit with a tester, check the simple elements of the board (resistors, capacitors, diodes). In ohmmeter mode, the resistor value is determined. In the position of checking semiconductor devices - diodes and capacitors. The LED can be easily checked by connecting a 1.5 volt power supply to its outputs (by disconnecting it from the board) through a resistor and directing the lens of the phone, which is in the shooting mode. If the photodiode is working properly, then you will see a faint glow on the screen.

In most cases, the listed activities should help you repair your mouse. In the rest, the breakdown will be hidden in the microcontroller.

(1 estimates, average: 5,00 out of 5)

Video (click to play).

https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/2133/2017/04/13701/ https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/2133/wp-content/ uploads / 2017/04 / Repair-wireless-mouse-1024 × 783.jpg https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/2133/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/Repair-wireless -mice-150 × 150.jpg 2017-04-28T12: 21: 18 + 00: 00 Anton Tretyak Devices If a computer mouse breaks down, many users do not know how to live on. The session ends and the search for a new device begins or the restoration of the broken thing to work. With basic knowledge of electrical engineering and the ability to work with a soldering iron, you can repair your wireless mouse very quickly. Consider a step-by-step method for determining the causes of a device malfunction and restoring its resource. Sources. Anton Tretyak Anton Tretyak Administrator> - reviews, instructions, life hacks