DIY rear window heating contact repair

The problem is not new, there are often holivars about treatment. If you solder, then what? Will the glass crack?

On Lechin's whim, he solved this issue by sticking a contact.

There is a repair kit Permatex 21351

Consists of a sachet (blue) with a napkin, which is impregnated with an activator (starts the chemical hardening of the glue) and the conductive glue itself (a transparent sachet in front of the napkin).

- clean the surface of the contact that has fallen off with a file

- degrease the contact surfaces and glass in the place where we will glue the contact with alcohol or gasoline. In this case, there is no need to glue strictly to the old place. the contact strip is huge, you can step back 1-2 cm in any direction.

- Wipe the contacting surfaces with a napkin with an activator, i.e. contact and glass in the place of gluing, let the activator dry for 5 minutes.

- at this time, we wrinkle a bag of glue with our fingers, achieving a homogeneous mass. We put 1-2 drops of glue on the contact.

- we apply contact to the glass. No additional pressure is required. The contact is held on the glass by surface tension forces. It is possible to correct the position of the contact on the glass without affecting the final result.

- We leave for 24 hours. If done correctly, the contact is tight. You shouldn't be careful with it, if it falls off, it means that something was done wrong and you need to redo it as expected.

Features of storage of the composition: For some reason, these ghouls made of permatex made a disposable envelope with a napkin. In the sense that after opening it cannot be glued back. This becomes especially offensive, because the available amount of glue can cure a whole taxi fleet. Well, in fact, according to my estimate, the glue will be enough for about 20-25 glasses. So, it turns out that this is not a problem. The dried activator can be easily diluted with gasoline. I just pissed on a napkin with gasoline from a flower sprayer. The glue itself does not dry out at all. Even in an unopened bag.

emperad 23 Jun 2015

At me on one side of the glass the “corner” fell off - (well, that's on which actually the wiring with a plug of the “mother” type is put on). That is, I understand that with this composition, the corner ("dad") can be glued to the heating?

I trained several times on unnecessary glasses, first I warmed the glass with a hairdryer up to 70 degrees and a hundred-watt for a minute and drove solder over it. Then just a soldering iron on glass at room temperature for a minute. I soldered a bunch of garbage, small screws, terminals on the platforms, which was at hand. In general, if you do not do this in the cold, and the gumboil is good, you can quickly solder it, then nothing will happen to the glass.

ska_69 24 Jun 2015

glue is easier, at the beginning of the century I glued a ton of contacts to the glasses.

So after all, you need the glue to be how to say it .. "conductive" or what? So I would take it and stick it on the same proxypol, only to the point of this - it can and will hold, but it will not conduct current (when it dries up, it freezes), which means that the heating will not work either. So you need something like that - (like glue) - so that when it sticks, the current passes. Or am I missing something? (Correct then). And yet - how to stick it all the same?

I don’t rummage in English .. But so I understood that THIS is what we need? (That is, something like conductive?)

Oh, kay, I'll look at the local auto dealerships.

Vitya, thanks for the info about the napkin. And then the second package was opened for three contacts.

Wow, I didn’t look here, but it turns out that the topic aroused keen interest in clubmates. It's nice.

Why should the glass crack, it is tempered. And the wiring was initially soldered in the same place. Glue xs, then touch it and fall off again.But soldering on non-dismantled glass is inconvenient, yes.

I believe that glass can crack because the melting point of tin is 220 degrees. Tempered glass is a tricky thing, and I'm a little afraid of it. There are cases when tempered glass exploded on its own. It's just that the stresses inside the glass didn't match up so well. And I personally cannot predict how the heating of a patch with a diameter of 10 cm will affect up to 220 degrees, despite the fact that the temperature of the surrounding glass will be 20 degrees. I also have experience in soldering contacts to glass. The glass did not explode, I think it was lucky. In any case, soldering the contact to the glass, you feel like a sapper.

In the case of a Zhigulyator, the cost of an error is low. In the case of a caprice, the hemorrhoids will be such that even thinking about him is scary. And the apotheosis of hemorrhoids is my Twarus (Toyota) with a liftback body. There glass exists separately from the trunk only in the catalog. In practice, the glass problem = replacement of the complete boot lid with repainting.

At me on one side of the glass the “corner” fell off - (well, that's on which actually the wiring with a plug of the “mother” type is put on). That is, I understand that with this composition, the corner ("dad") can be glued to the heating?

- Yes, conductive glue. On the one hand, it smells of magic, on the other hand, there is the 21st century in the yard and the respected Permatex as a manufacturer. I tried it, it turned out great, shared the methodology and results with the comrades.

Bold red ELECTRICALLY CONDUCTIVE. Hmmm. what is it for?

Vitya, thanks for the info about the napkin. And then the second package was opened for three contacts.

On health, I was glad to help.

emperad 26 Jun 2015

I believe that glass can crack because the melting point of tin is 220 degrees. Tempered glass is a tricky thing, and I'm a little afraid of it. There are cases when tempered glass exploded on its own. It's just that the stresses inside the glass didn't match up so well. And I personally cannot predict how the heating of a patch with a diameter of 10 cm will affect up to 220 degrees, despite the fact that the temperature of the surrounding glass will be 20 degrees. I also have experience in soldering contacts to glass. The glass did not explode, I think it was lucky. In any case, soldering the contact to the glass, you feel like a sapper.

In the case of a Zhigulyator, the cost of an error is low. In the case of a caprice, the hemorrhoids will be such that even thinking about him is scary. And the apotheosis of hemorrhoids is my Twarus (Toyota) with a liftback body. There glass exists separately from the trunk only in the catalog. In practice, the glass problem = replacement of the complete boot lid with repainting.

Well xs, when I was still working at AB MO, we soldered these glasses on the Volgalisches and somehow did not even think about it, and I do not know of a single case of explosion. Then there was no trace of such adhesives

Calmly soldered with an ordinary soldering iron on 2 machines, nothing fell off and did not break. Glasses are warming up.

Soldered on twenty cars, and on the twenty-first it burst.

twenty-first they are.

Here we glue them with this Permatex. Extremely surprised you are not changing the 5th door assembly... What kind of alloy or google it?

The client is not the same now .. Greedy all what so. Poor people write a thousand on a new glass can not spend. I have to google about the alloy to Rose and solder. And then Permatex usually no longer causes reversible damage.

Fixing the rear window heating contact!

I wanted to write for a long time, but forgot. Back in the summer, when I removed the rear pillars, I tore off one of the rear window heating contacts, not the threads, but the contact itself! Naturally, in the summer, as it was, he did not care, but now the weather is like this, the glass is constantly sweating and nothing is visible, driving is simply dangerous, coupled with the fact that nothing is especially visible in the mirrors in this weather! In the internet there are 2 ways to solve this problem - to glue with conductive glue and solder!

To get started, I tried the first option. Traveled all the shops in the city and markets, by the way, too, and did not find the glue that they advise - Done Deal, it is expensive, but it definitely helps.Everywhere they offer to glue it with glue for repairing heating threads - but it definitely won't help, it's stupid money down the drain! A cheap but also effective option - Contactol glue, was also not found. As a result, the maximum that I found was Permatex glue in BB, it costs 170 rubles.

glue Permatex

I read on the internet that people make a plate, a heating wire is soldered into it and the plate is glued to the contacts on the glass and it is advised to apply even small copper shavings. A piece of brass was found at home, they tried to glue it 2 times, the first time was simple, the second time with copper shavings. There is no effect.

A brass plate was made

As a result, there was an option - that they simply did not hit on horseback, the plate slid down during the drying of the glue. Checked by control - power goes to both contacts, the light comes on. But at the top it sparkled a little. I bought glue again - they re-glued it as normal, again there is no effect. Now I am considering an option, what can it be about brass, that it is thick and heats up for a very long time or does not stupidly transmit enough current to the thread ?!

Guys, can anyone come across such a problem? The glue remained for one time, but I'm already leaning towards the option to solder! True, I'm worried that the glass would not crack. And if you solder at what point you need to solder the contact, does it even matter? I will be glad to help!

Finally, I fixed the contact! What can I say - no need to rely on cheap glue, 2 tubes were wasted! All the same, it turned out to be the most effective and simple way - to solder! Business then for 10 minutes and it all worked! We take the wire - from one end we solder the “daddy”, on the other side just a bare wire. We clean the terminal itself from the remnants of glue, which does not really conduct current, as it turned out, I cleaned it off with a soldering iron. Then we clean it with fine sandpaper, degrease it with alcohol and solder it. We turn on the heating, wait - everything works! Not very nice, of course it turned out, but the main thing here is practicality and not aesthetics!

a year ago Tags: DIY repair 2418 views

tucson-club. ru / forum / showthread. php? t = 170 & page = 14

I also tore the terminal off the glass when I was repairing the rear wiper.
I bought Moment epoxy glue, added copper shavings to it, mixed it and glued it. Moreover, he made both large and small shavings.
Has been working for over a year.

I was soldering in my wife's car. the story is this:
the contact lamella was in place, but there was no electrical contact. the place was covered by a counter, and the glass was glued in. I agreed with the glaziers that they will cut out the glass for me, I will solder it and they will glue it back in. I fiddled for a long time, tried a bunch of methods: with rosin, with acid, heated with a hairdryer - nothing worked. took the glass and went to the garage. I spent 2 hours there until I learned.
fluffed tinned wire is placed on the soldering point, dripped acid from a jar "soldering acid" (I suspect that this is zinc chloride, but the jar is old, I took it on the shelf), and once poked with a 60-watt soldering iron with the required amount of solder on the tip. the solder was POS-61, I had no other. I soldered both the terminal and 2 more wires in reserve. but, I repeat, I had to learn how much to drip, how much solder and how to poke. the glass was glued to me the next day.
good luck!

In general, I soldered the chip to the strip.
Who will solder:
I cleaned the soldering point with fine sandpaper... Rubbed degreaser... Put in place flux for aluminum (I didn't have time to use soldering acid). I did not touch the torn terminal, took a copper wire and tinned it. On the reverse side, the glass was heated with a hairdryer. Next, to the place of soldering on the glass, you need drip (just drip without rubbing) as much solder as possible (I used POS-61) and cool. The solder spot should be as large as possible. I dripped twice. Then a copper wire was soldered onto these two drops. And the copper wire to the heater terminal. Ideally, it is necessary to drip so that at one time the drop hits the glass and onto the wire. Then from above you need pour glue on everything (I took epoxy) or varnish, since the soldered wire can be torn off from the deposition on the glass.On the factory terminal, it is also poured from above with some kind of glue or varnish. And it is advisable to fix the wire so that it does not dangle.

I drove from work today, checked the heating. Everything works, the glass warms up normally, the place where the solder is heated in the same way as from the side of the factory terminal (that is, there is no such thing that the place of soldering is very hot). Good luck to all!
ru / big / 2013/0724 /. afd168b5e7.jpg
ru / big / 2013/0724 /. da491be15e. jpg

It is similar to some, during the repair of the rear wiper, tore off the heater clamp. Traveled to workshops, almost all of them immediately refuse to solder. I did find one master shareholder who agreed to try it. But there are no results - do not stick to the solder on this coating. I read everything I found on the Internet - in total:
1.asahi 60/40 solder
2. flux - zinc chloride. Low-tin solder type POS-18, POSS-4-6 If anyone knows, please unsubscribe, the better to solder.
I doubt the miracle of adhesives.
I wanted to look for a separate grid-heater for glass, but I could not find anything.
There is only a parking area for two cars.
Well, or I will do as advised sotyi.

autolada. ru / viewtopic. php? t = 205326

The other day I was going to tint the car and noticed that one thread of heating the rear window (the third from the bottom) does not work. I decided to do it, I thoroughly prepared for this issue

To begin with, a little information that I dug up on the internet:
It is necessary to find the place of the cliff:
1st way:
- turn on the heating on the fogged glass and in the place of the break the glass quickly sweats with a stain, and the whole thread with the break does not sweat.

2nd way:
- to detect a break in the rear window defroster wire, turn on the ignition and turn on the rear window defroster.
- connect one probe of the voltmeter to the mass of the car, and wrap the second probe with foil and move the foil along the heater conductor.
- Connect the voltmeter probe in the center of each wire of the rear window defogger. If the voltmeter shows a voltage of about 5 V, then the heater conductor is working properly. If the voltmeter shows a voltage of 0 V or 12 V, then there is a break in the heater conductor.
- to locate a break in the heater conductor, connect one probe of the voltmeter to the positive terminal of the heater, and move the second probe along the conductor of the heater from the side of the negative terminal of the heater. The point at which the voltage indicated by the voltmeter will drop from a few volts to zero is where the heater conductor breaks.

3rd way:
- ohmmeter, in kilo mode, or better than mego. One probe clings to one terminal of the heater, the second one to the other terminal of the heater. Take a piece of cotton wool soaked in distilled water and lead it along the strings of the heater, follow the kilo readings, the megohmmeter at the break point, the arrow jerks.
- it is better to use an analog ohmmeter (with an arrow).
- works if there is a break in one place!

Directly repair threads:

In all the methods listed below, you must first clean the conductive strip from varnish (better - with a bent steel wire, a paper clip) until a metallic sheen appears and degrease.

1st method (conductive paste):
- the broken conductor of the rear window defroster can be restored using conductive paste.
- before starting the repair, turn off the heated rear window and allow time for the glass to cool.
- being careful, clean the heater conductor and rinse it with alcohol.
- use adhesive tape to mark the area to be repaired.
- Apply conductive paste approximately 20 mm from each end of the damaged conductor.
- After drying the electrically conductive paste, the rear window defroster can be used for 24 hours. It can be dried at a high temperature, then the heating can be used earlier.

3rd method (paint with shavings):
- take a copper-brass bead (graphite is also suitable) and with a small file began to make a line.
- paint (you can red, to match the color of the threads) is mixed with the stitch, the proportion is about 50/50.You should get a dough mixture.
- heating is turned on and paint is applied to the thread, first making a clip from electrical tape or scotch tape. In the process of applying paint, a hiss appeared from the place of contact, then it disappeared, but the thread was hot.
- done. Literally in a minute, the composition freezes.

4th method (magnet and glue):
- prepare very small iron filings, a small magnet (from the speaker) and transparent glue (such as BF-2) or nitrolac.
- attach a magnet from the outside above the break, then sprinkle sawdust on the side of the conductor, gently moving the magnet to achieve electrical contact at the break (this will be noticeable by the heating of the strip - unless, of course, the break is in one place, otherwise you will need a larger number of magnets).
- Apply a drop of glue to the sawdust with a small white brush and let the glue (varnish) dry.
- then remove the magnet and use a blade to remove excess sawdust. You can reapply one more layer of glue (varnish).
- enough for several years.

5th method (special adhesives):
- special adhesives for restoring heating threads, there are also Russian-made
- the reviews are contradictory, some like it, some don't
- instructions for use are attached to the glue
- it is recommended to add a little iodine to the glue. In this case, the glue turns out to be red and matches the color of the rest of the threads.

6th method (soldering):
- Damage sites can be soldered with POS-18 or POSS-4-6 soft low-tin solder using zinc chloride as a flux. If a long section is damaged, it is better to solder a thin copper or silver vein from the wire.

7th method (sawdust and glue):
- Silver sawdust (for example, an alloy cut off with a file from the contact of an unusable power relay) must be poured into the fold of a sheet of paper, and a drop of nitro glue must be added there. With the tip of a knife, quickly roll a cylinder with a length of 2.3 and a diameter of 1 mm and place it on the damaged site. Then - crush to squeeze the sawdust tightly, and remove excess.

The rear window of the Scorpion, the heating conductors on the sides are connected to a wide tire, there is a contact pad at the top of the tire. On the one hand, the contact fell off. The platform is a thin layer of some kind of metal sputtering. The contact must be soldered to it (the area is about 2x3cm, the contact is 0.5x1cm). And he, GAD. not soldered. From this contact pad, everything flies off (just slides off) like from a Teflon frying pan. No skinning (tried it. The spraying is very thin - it peels off). The problem seems to be that it is not possible to warm up this crap (and it is dumb to use strong heaters - suddenly the glass will crack). Therefore, the questions are:
1. Maybe there is a VERY low-temperature solder (IMHO needs 60-80 degrees)?
2. Can the contact be glued? I heard about conductive adhesives, but there is a doubt that the glue is designed for high currents (there, somewhere around 20 amperes IMHO, heating all the same). Does anyone have a thread of experience using such glue?
3. Any other thoughts?

Shl. I don't want to poison with acid - I'm afraid the spraying will slip off the nafik, then. here.
ZZY. It is not advisable to change the door or not.
ZZZY. For some reason I rejected the idea of ​​drilling a hole and tightening the contacts with a bolt.

Sent: Corwin OHC2i, Dec 25, 2002 09:20:08
In response to: How to solder (glue)? + sent by T283TA, December 24, 2002 at 15:54:32

And I would not solder it at all - I would find (if there is no extra cheap door at hand) springy flat contacts and, having mounted them through an insulator, made a simple mechanical springy solution. In principle, it is better not to do it there. At least not a fig will not come off later.

Posted by: Lelik_Sam, December 24, 2002 at 16:07:33
In response to: How to solder (glue)? + sent by T283TA, December 24, 2002 at 15:54:32

2. Can the contact be glued?
- Yes,

there, somewhere ampere 20 IMHO, heating all the same).
- WHAT. This will be 20 * 12 = 240 watts. All the spraying on the fick would have evaporated by itself, and the glass would have burst.Have you heard a few stories about people who threw snow on the headlights with 100-watt bulbs? And there, after all, not all power goes into heat.
- IMHO SHOULD BE GLUED. Glue in Mitka. In the worst case, it will not work, but it will not get worse.

: 3. Any other thoughts?
Glue regular metal with ordinary glue. plate. not all of the current with glue, so that there is a place for contact .. Before this is probably crap :)))))

Sent: T283TA, Dec 24, 2002 4:19:12 PM

: there, somewhere ampere 20 IMHO, heating all the same).
:: - WHAT. This will be 20 * 12 = 240 watts.
+++ Well done. I would even say 20 * 13 = 260W. Now let's put the calculator aside and call on common sense. What for there was a fuse set to 30A? The standard margin is 50 percent, which is why I'm talking about 20A.

: All the spraying on the fick would have evaporated by itself, and the glass would have burst.
+++ Builders calculate floor heating at the rate of 100W / sq. Meter. And there you need only 10 degrees of pace. Raise. And here it is necessary to heat more than a square meter (this is such a glass area) at an ambient -20 degrees and forced airflow to such a rate. so that the ice and snow melt.

: Have you heard a few stories about people who threw snow on the headlights with 100-watt lamps?
+++ The area of ​​the headlamp is 100 (STO.) Times smaller.

: And there, after all, not all power goes into heat.
+++ Approximately 93-95%

: In the worst case, it will not work, but it will not get worse.
+++ Will be. There will be nothing to solder and glue.

Sent: Lelik_Sam, December 24, 2002 at 16:52:03

And here it is necessary to heat more than a square meter (this is such a glass area) at an ambient -20 degrees and forced airflow to such a rate. so that the ice and snow melt.
- Oh, whether. fuck you all the glass heats up. So. stripes thin. And then, after the interior warms up. The real heating area is slightly larger than the same headlight. And it does not melt there especially. It melts a little so that it blows away. Finally, check the temperature difference between the rear and side windows with your hand on a well-heated car. I don't believe in 20 degrees.

Approximately 93-95%
- Truth? Is it radiating so much WARM? I do not believe.

Sent by: Marlboro !, December 24, 2002 at 21:47:53

+++ Ordinary incandescent - just like that. Halogen - well 75-80.

Posted by: il76th, Dec 24, 2002 4:10:43 PM
In response to: How to solder (glue)? + sent by T283TA, December 24, 2002 at 15:54:32

the conductive glue "kontaktol" is called, I restored the paths on the mothers with it. maybe it will suit you.

Sent: T283TA, Dec 24, 2002 at 04:22:08 PM

+++ Don't you know - does it hold large currents? In the same place, all the tracks have already gathered in a bunch.

Sent: YURCHIK, December 24, 2002 at 16:36:27

It looks like my Scorpio was done before me. Until now, two stripes are frigid. : - (((pink-burgundy glue was used, in my opinion.
Best regards, YURCHIK.

Sent: FORDMAX, Dec 25, 2002 00:12:16
In response to: How to solder (glue)? + sent by T283TA, December 24, 2002 at 15:54:32

low-temperature solder - God forbid the memory of Rose's alloy, and in order to solder, look for a liquid acid-free flux from radioamators should be on sale.

Sent: Anton Papilin, Dec 25, 2002 00:15:08
In response to: How to solder (glue)? + sent by T283TA, December 24, 2002 at 15:54:32

Summary
If we don't think of anything low-temperature, all that remains is to clean it thoroughly, press it down and pour it in with epoxy - it seems to be safe.

Many drivers are interested in what to do if the heating located on the rear window does not work? This is not just a whim, but a vital necessity, allowing you to always see what is happening from behind.

If, when looking in the rear-view mirror, the driver sees nothing but fog, then the risk of an accident increases many times over. That is why, as soon as you notice that the heating of the rear window electric filaments does not work, you must immediately start fixing it.

This is not a particularly difficult procedure, but in order for everything to go as it should, it is necessary to approach it as responsibly as possible. It is very important to follow the instructions exactly.

Before proceeding to the repair of the heating of the rear window elements, which you will do with your own hands, you need to understand the design of this device. In reality, it does not represent anything complicated.

There are two conductive tires on the sides of the rear window of the vehicle. Heating lines are located between them. Usually a high-resistance material is used to create them.The fact is that for effective operation, each thread must have a resistance in the region of 10 ohms. This is the only way to protect the glass from fogging.

The number of threads in the rear window heating is different for each car. In most cases, it depends on the length of the surface. During repairs, this exclusively affects the difficulty of detecting a break.

To repair the heating of the rear window threads, you will need to study the connection diagram of this device to the automotive electrical network. The main role here is played by the ignition lock. It is through it that the voltage is supplied to the heating system.

As soon as you turn on the heater, the current flows to the relay. After that, the contacts are closed, and the leads are connected. As a result, electricity is supplied to the heater without obstacles.

As soon as the current enters the electrical circuit of the glass heater, it begins to feed the filaments, which are connected in parallel to the general system. But that's not all. The fact is that the negative contact of the battery is also connected to the mass of the car. Thanks to this, a constant exchange of current is carried out.

As you already understood from the above material, the heating of each thread of the rear seat works thanks to the ignition key. As soon as it is in the ON position, the entire system is activated.

Many drivers are outraged by such a decision of the designers, but in reality it has its own logic. The fact is that the rear window heater consumes a lot of electricity. Usually this figure ranges from 10 to 25 A.

So that you better understand how much 25 A is - let's make a visual comparison. In order for one car headlight to shine at least 5 A. In fact, one heater is equal to 5 headlights.

To fix something, you first need to diagnose the breakdown. For a number of signs, you can first find out what exactly is the reason for the failure of heating the threads. So an inoperative rear window defogger indicator, when the button is pressed, indicates a faulty fuse.

An illuminated indicator and non-heating heating filaments located on the rear window indicate a malfunction in the relay. In turn, poor contact in the electrical circuit leads to too slow fogging of the glass.

It is with this that you need to start the procedure for restoring the normal operation of heating all the threads of the rear window. First, look at all the lines visually. If nothing is visible, you can use the search techniques that have been developed by other drivers who are facing the same problem:

1. If at first glance, when examining the rear window, you did not find a break in the heating lines, you should not immediately proceed to more complex methods. To get started, just turn off the heating. In a place where the glass is not heated, a characteristic strip will appear.
2. Take a voltmeter, activate the rear seat heating. Place one probe on the weight of the machine, wrap the other with foil. At the same time, slowly move along each line until you reach the middle. The standard voltage is 5 V. If it drops below, then you have found the break. A jump to 12V also means a break.
3. There is another option for using a voltmeter. To do this, connect the plus to the terminal to the corresponding heating contact. The second probe must be moved slowly along the line. Moreover, this must be done on the side where the negative terminal is located. A drop in voltage means that you have found an open circuit.
4. Ohmmeter. An ordinary pointer device will work best. When you turn on the device, you must select the mega mode. Connect the probes to the heating leads on the rear window. Ordinary cotton wool soaked in distilled water is suitable as a connecting element. Follow the line. The reaction of the arrow will mean that you have found the place of the cliff.

As soon as the breakage point in the heating threads of the glass behind is found, you can proceed to a full-fledged repair.

There are many techniques for repairing threads that are responsible for heating the glass of a car in the back. For example, you can take a regular repair kit for the corresponding part. The advantage of this option is that you do not have to look for additional parts and tools. Everything will be in one package.

Some of the best kits for re-heating damaged rear window heat lines are made by Permatex and Quick Grid. They all have similar components.

The repair kit allows you to restore about 10 centimeters of the damaged thread. Usually there are ready-made lines in the set. All you need to do is install them correctly.

The algorithm itself for repairing the heat lines of the rear window using a repair kit is very simple. You need to replace the damaged thread and apply the compound where the damage was.

At the end of the work, remove the template. The heating must not be turned on for at least a day after you have done everything. Otherwise, all the work will be useless and you will have to redo it again.

The second method of repairing the heating of the rear window heat lines with your own hands is to use a conductive paste. Just apply it to the area where the threads were broken. Wait 24 hours. After that, all functions of the heating lines will be restored.

Of course, the use of a repair kit and thermal paste has its advantages. They are easy to operate, and the result of repairs with these heating filaments made from a special material for the rear window is always high. However, you still need to buy them. And this takes time and money. In some cases, both with the first and with the second, some difficulties are possible.

It is not surprising that domestic and foreign motorists have come up with a whole set of various methods that can help in the shortest possible time with the help of the means at hand to restore the broken lines.

In order to bring to life the first popular method of repairing the heating of the rear window threads, you will need paint and shavings. To get the shavings, you need a copper-brass block and a file. The color of the paint doesn't really matter. However, it is preferable to match the threads.

The shavings and paint are mixed one to one. As a result, you should get some kind of dough from these two elements. In order to make a stencil, ordinary scotch tape will work.

After the stencil is applied to the surface, turn on the heating filaments with a resistance of 10 ohms for the rear window. Only then apply the repairing mixture. As soon as the dough hits the damaged area, a specific hissing sound will be heard.

The main plus of the paint and shavings technique when repairing a heated rear window is that you don't have to wait. As soon as you hear an easily recognizable hiss, you can immediately enter the track without fear of fogging up the rear window.

The second popular method of repairing a heating installed on the rear window has some differences from the first. The mixture also uses shavings, but the paint is replaced with glue. BF-2 is ideal. Its restorative qualities will be more than enough to restore damaged threads.

The third popular method of repairing the heating filaments attached to the rear window is conventional soldering. To do this, you need a flux and zinc chloride. Of course, you can't do without solder either. The vein that you will use during your work must be silver plated. Alternatively, copper can be used.

As you can see, traditional methods allow you to restore even the most serious breaks in the heating lines on the rear window of a car with minimal costs. Unfortunately, unlike ready-made pasta, you have to make the composition yourself. And this takes time and effort.

The heating of the high-resistance threads of the rear window can be repaired by hand. You don't even need to buy a repair kit or paste for this. Enough tools at hand in the form of a bar and paint.

Mon 20 Aug 2012

Views: 52 395 Category: Do it yourself

It began to get colder on the street and in the morning more and more often the first thing to do is to press the rear window heating button. But the HORROR, you turn on the heating and find that not all the threads are heating. What to do? Replacing glass is not a cheap pleasure, it remains to repair on your own. Generally Recommended Repair Methods

heating threads of the rear window, according to those who have tried, leave much to be desired - the ineffectiveness of inexpensive conductive adhesives, and the high price of proprietary mixtures.

And in the vastness of the network I met an interesting repair technology, the reviews of those who tried it were more than enthusiastic:

Description of technology.

Of the reagents, copper sulfate is needed - better known as copper sulfate (used in plant growing and construction), and sulfuric acid - an electrolyte from a battery is quite suitable. From the tool - a piece of copper (preferably copper - not brass.

Several pieces of copper wire folded into a bunch are quite suitable) of a tube or rod with a diameter of 6-10 mm and a strip of fabric 20-30 mm wide and about half a meter long. At the end of the bar, wind a strip of fabric halfway up its width - you should get something like a brush. Above, you need to put a bandage of thread so that the fabric does not unwind.

Electrolyte preparation - not to be confused with akka electrolyte - it is also not difficult. A couple of teaspoons of copper sulfate are poured into half a glass of water, and stirred until dissolved. Not completely dissolved - not scary, do not pay attention. In the resulting solution, you need to add 0.2-0.3% percent of concentrated sulfuric acid or 0.5-1% electrolyte for the battery - this is about half a teaspoon of electrolyte for these half a glass.

Well, the process itself. Both terminals of the glass are connected to the "mass" (if the glass is installed in the car and at least one heating thread is intact on it, nothing needs to be done), and the "plus" of the battery is connected to the tube with a rag.

We moisten the positive electrode in the solution and start actively and continuously rubbing the thread break for 3-5 minutes. A current passes through the solution, which transfers copper ions from the electrode to the heating filament. With a slight damage to the thread, the gap is completely tightened with copper, with large gaps, the copper-plated areas should be irradiated with an unheated soldering iron and a jumper made of a thin wire should be soldered.

There is no need to limit the current as after a few seconds, the anode is passivated and limits the flow
current. It should not be forgotten that the solution contains sulfuric acid - such a concentration is harmless to the skin, but
on clothes in a week - two holes appear (Therefore, I do not advise carrying out the process without removing the glass, although this is quite possible.

• A couple more ways ... ...

- turn on the heating on the fogged glass and in the place of the break the glass quickly sweats with a stain, and the whole thread with the break does not sweat.

- to detect a break in the rear window defroster wire, turn on the ignition and turn on the rear window defroster.
- connect one probe of the voltmeter to the mass of the car, and wrap the second probe with foil and move the foil along the heater conductor.
- Connect the voltmeter probe in the center of each wire of the rear window defogger. If the voltmeter shows a voltage of about 5 V, then the heater conductor is working properly. If the voltmeter shows a voltage of 0 V or 12 V, then there is a break in the heater conductor.

- to locate a break in the heater conductor, connect one probe of the voltmeter to the positive terminal of the heater, and move the second probe along the conductor of the heater from the side of the negative terminal of the heater.The point at which the voltage indicated by the voltmeter will drop from a few volts to zero is where the heater conductor breaks.

- ohmmeter, in kilo mode, or better than mego. One probe clings to one terminal of the heater, the second one to the other terminal of the heater. Take a piece of cotton wool soaked in distilled water and lead it along the strings of the heater, follow the kilo readings, the megohmmeter at the break point, the arrow jerks.
- it is better to use an analog ohmmeter (with an arrow).
- works if there is a break in one place ...

Directly repair threads:

In all the methods listed below, you must first clean the conductive strip from varnish (better - with a bent steel wire, a paper clip) until a metallic sheen appears and degrease.
1st method (conductive paste):

- the broken conductor of the rear window defroster can be restored using conductive paste.
- before starting the repair, turn off the heated rear window and allow time for the glass to cool.
- being careful, clean the heater conductor and rinse it with alcohol.
- use adhesive tape to mark the area to be repaired.
- Apply electrically conductive paste approximately 20 mm from each end of the damaged conductor.
- After drying the electrically conductive paste, the rear window defroster can be used for 24 hours.

It can be dried at a high temperature, then the heating can be used earlier.
2nd method (electrolytic coating):

- from the reagents, copper sulfate is needed - better known as copper sulfate (used in plant growing and
construction), and sulfuric acid - the electrolyte from the battery is quite suitable.

- from the tool - a piece of copper (preferably copper - not brass. Several pieces of copper wire folded into a bunch are quite suitable) of a tube or a wire with a diameter of 6-10 mm and a strip of fabric 20-30 mm wide and about half a meter long.

- at the end of the thread, wind a strip of fabric on half of its width - you should get something like a brush.

Above need to put on a bandage of thread so that the fabric does not unwind.

- preparation of the electrolyte - not to be confused with the electrolyte of the accumulator - is also not difficult. A couple of teaspoons of copper sulphate is poured into half a glass of water, and stirred until dissolved, not completely dissolved - not scary, do not pay attention.

In the obtained p-p it is necessary to add 0.2-0.3% of the percentage of concentrated sulfuric acid or 0.5-1% of the electrolyte for the battery - this is about half a teaspoon of electrolyte for these half a glass.
- the actual process.

Both terminals of the glass are connected to the "ground" (if the glass is installed in the car and at least one heating thread is intact on it - nothing needs to be done), and the "plus" of the battery is connected to the tube with a rag. We moisten the positive electrode in solution and start actively and continuously rubbing the thread break for 3-5 minutes.

A current passes through the solution, which transfers copper ions from the electrode to the heating filament. With a slight damage to the thread, the gap is completely tightened with copper, for large gaps, the copper-bonded areas should be irradiated with an undisturbed soldering iron and soldered from a thin wire.

There is no need to limit the current, because after a few seconds the anode is passivated and limits the flowing current. Do not forget that the solution contains sulfuric acid!

3rd method (paint with shavings):
- take a copper-brass bead (graphite is also suitable) and with a small file began to make a line.
- paint (you can red, to match the color of the threads) is mixed with the stitch, the proportion is about 50/50. You should get a dough mixture.
- heating is turned on and paint is applied to the thread, first making a clip from electrical tape or scotch tape. V
During the process of applying paint, a hiss appeared from the place of contact, then it disappeared, but the thread was hot.
- done. Literally in a minute, the composition freezes.

4th method (magnet and glue):
- prepare very small iron filings, a small magnet (from the speaker) and transparent glue (such as BF-2) or nitrolac.
- attach a magnet from the outside above the break, then sprinkle sawdust on the side of the conductor, gently moving the magnet to achieve electrical contact at the break (this will be noticeable by the heating of the strip - unless, of course, the break is in one place, otherwise you will need a larger number of magnets).
- Apply a drop of glue to the sawdust with a small white brush and let the glue (varnish) dry.
- then remove the magnet and use a blade to remove excess sawdust. You can reapply one more layer of glue (varnish).
- enough for several years.

5th method (special adhesives):
- special adhesives for restoring heating threads, there are also Russian-made
- the reviews are contradictory, some like it, some don't
- instructions for use are attached to the glue
- it is recommended to add a little iodine to the glue. In this case, the glue turns out to be red and matches the color of the rest of the threads.

6th method (soldering):
- Damage sites can be soldered with POS-18 or POSS-4-6 soft low-tin solder using zinc chloride as a flux. If a long section is damaged, it is better to solder a thin copper or silver vein from the wire.

7th method (sawdust and glue):
- Silver sawdust (for example, an alloy cut off with a file from the contact of an unusable power relay) must be poured into the fold of a sheet of paper, and a drop of nitro glue must be added there. Quickly roll up a cylinder 2 ... 3 long and 1 mm in diameter with the tip of a knife and place it on the damaged site. Then - crush to squeeze the sawdust tightly, and remove excess.

To implement this idea, I used the second method - electrolytic coating.
Here was the gap:

it was visible to the naked eye, but just in case, I called this place with a tester ... Then I made a device with which copper ions will be applied:

it is done very simply ... he took 3 copper conductors from a copper wire of 2.5 mm cross-section, soldered them together, put a heat-shrink tube on them, cleaned the copper, wound a rag about 3 cm wide, fastened it all with ties ....

on the other hand, I soldered a plug-in contact so that you can connect this device instead of heating. Then copper sulphate began to play, fortunately, there were old stocks and I took a little acid from the battery with a syringe .... (You can buy copper sulphate in a store where fertilizers are sold)

Then everything was according to the instructions .... put the electrode into the glass, disconnected the positive wire from the glass heating, connected a homemade electrode to it, turned on the ignition and the heating button - thus the "+" appeared on the electrode ...

There is a "-" sign on the heating strips. I just walked around the place where there was a gap and saw how a coating of copper was formed ... I note that this method is most effective for small scratches ... For reliability, I also soldered this place, since after such a copper plating procedure everything is soldered with a bang!
In the end, everything worked out and everything works!