DIY Matiz box repair

The owner can say “lucky”, they noticed in time that oil was leaking from under the car. We lifted the car on a lift, from below, in the area of ​​the differential, we immediately noticed a crack. And not from an external blow, but from an internal one. The owner argued that no prerequisites (noises, knocks.) Of a manual transmission malfunction during the operation period were not observed. just repaired the starter.

A 0.8-liter engine, the process of removing the manual transmission did not cause any difficulties - we unscrew everything that interferes.

Disassembling the box is a little more difficult than the VAZ-2110, the main thing is not to rush and memorize the sequence of actions. We remove the cover of the 5th speed, the pin securing the transmission fork is knocked out with a suitable drift, the fit is tight, so you need a few precise hits with a heavier hammer. locking pin.

We turn off the gear selection mechanism. and rod clamps of choice.

We clean the broken half of the crankcase from shafts, forks.

Crack in one half of the crankcase 6 cm long.

... but - "hero of the occasion" - a bolt.

... after a comparative analysis of all the fasteners for the manual transmission of the engine compartment, it became clear that this bolt fastened the starter, and it can only be unscrewed when the gear selection mechanism is removed. We wish the electrician a pleasant conversation with the car owner.

This new improved automatic transmission Daewoo Matiz being light and compact, designed for a very small class car (type FF), to ensure smooth operation, fast driving and improved fuel consumption. Its electronically controlled shifting and oil pressure ensure smooth gear ratios under a variety of driving conditions, including throttle position and vehicle speed. This ensures even (smooth) driving at all speeds. Below the link you can download files that describe in detail the device and automatic transmission schemes Daewoo Matizas well as a repair manual Automatic transmission Daewoo Matiz

This manual contains a detailed description and a list of possible malfunctions of the machine. The tables show the repair operations, which are accompanied by color photographs.

File: PPT (requires Power Point to view)
Size: 14 MB

Most of the owners of the Daewoo Matiz car, sooner or later, are faced with problems arising from the clutch. There may be many reasons for this, however, on average, such difficulties appear after 90 thousand kilometers. Moreover, no matter how carefully you operated your car.

The whole point is in the design of gearbox assemblies and assemblies, which have a relatively short period of their own operation. A with more aggressive driving, we can even talk about 40-50 thousand kilometers, so this breakdown can be quite typical for a practically new car.

As a result of work on replacing the clutch basket on the Matiz car, it is possible to gain access to all the internal parts of this unit. An example of dismantling the clutch basket on an early Daewoo Matiz 1.0L car will be considered.

Daewoo Matiz clutch basket

Also, you will need to use a hydraulic lift or a viewing hole. This is necessary in order to be able to support the checkpoint using the above stop. Otherwise, it will be almost impossible to access the clutch, in particular to its basket. We lift the car onto the lift and proceed.

So, we open the hood, where we free up the space that we need to access the gearbox mounting elements.This set of works includes dismantling the air filter and battery. The very same battery installation site will also need to be removed, as well as disconnect the gear selection cable. In addition, if the wiring harnesses bother you, they can be disconnected or simply put aside, however, the first option is preferable because you will have a lot more room to work.

Free up space under the hood (bottom) and take out the left drive (left)

After that, you will need to remove the starter and unscrew the clutch cable. However, all wires attached to the box must also be dismantled, as well as part of the left front suspension. The latter is necessary in order to gain direct access to the transmission and its accompanying components. After that, in a Matiz car, replacing the clutch will become quite real.

After all the above actions have been carried out, observing great care, we take out the complete left-hand drive. Also, you will need to unscrew the bottom bolts used for fastening.

Disconnect the box and gain access to the worn out clutch

Putting the adjustable stop under the gearbox, unscrew all the remaining mounting bolts, completely freeing the gearbox.

Here, it is best if someone helps you, so as not to harm yourself or your car.

Having reached the gearbox itself, we get full access to the basket and the clutch disc with the possibility of disassembling them.

If you only need to replace the clutch basket, then we dismantle the old one with the further installation of a new one in its place. The main thing, in this case, is not to tighten the bolts to the end. Next, you will need to insert a special centering mandrel into the corresponding hole on the shaft. At the same time, we press the basket and make sure that the free travel of the mandrel remains normal.

Release bearing for Daewoo Matiz

If there is such a need, then we install the release bearing on the shaft in the box. After that, you will need to do all the above steps in reverse order. Thus, we have achieved that in Daewoo Matiz the replacement of the clutch is carried out almost at home, with improvised means and completely independently, with the exception of a little help from someone from our acquaintances at the time of dismantling the gearbox.

If you need to work exclusively with the clutch, then it will not be necessary to completely dismantle the gearbox. You can simply move it to the side by hanging it from above or fixing it to the corresponding stop. The main thing is to be sure that the transmission will not dangle freely during operation. After assembly, it will be appropriate to adjust the clutch, even if you have not changed its configuration, simply replacing the part that is out of order. Also, it is worth noting the obligatory use of a centering mandrel, since otherwise it will be impossible to install the gearbox in its place. Also, remember to use only original spare parts.

Repair of the gearbox (checkpoint) Daewoo Matiz can be major or partial. Repair of the box (manual transmission) Daewoo Matiz should be done only after the initial diagnosis in a car service. Very often, a third-party opinion that the box needs to be repaired turns out to be erroneous. It can also be caused by the clutch, flywheel, and gear selector.

We offer two options for repairing a transmission (manual transmission):

Partial (local) repair of the Daewoo Matiz gearbox - we remove the box, disassemble it, wash and defect. Troubleshooting a box is determining the cause of its failure, indicating a specific malfunction. A list of spare parts for this malfunction is also provided. After agreement, we make repairs to eliminate the specific malfunction that the client has contacted. We do not touch the rest of the components and spare parts in the gearbox.

Overhaul of the checkpoint Daewoo Matiz - as well as with partial repairs, the box is removed and completely disassembled, washed and defective. In this case, we are not looking for a specific cause of the breakdown, but we are doing a complete defect diagnosis. All units and spare parts with increased wear, all bearings, oil seals and gaskets are determined and changed.

Symptoms: crunching when changing gears, gear shifting occurs with complications.

Possible reason: the gearbox is defective.

Tools: wrench set, socket set, flat blade screwdriver, Phillips screwdriver.

Note. Work is carried out on a viewing pit or overpass. It is also recommended that you seek the help of another person.

2. Remove the battery.

3. Drain the coolant.

4. Install the adjustable stop under the gearbox housing.

5. Unscrew the two retaining bolts of the left support of the power unit to the body using the head with the extension.

6. Remove the stop, leaving the power package secured to the remaining three feet.

7. Unscrew the four mounting bolts of the battery plate using the “12” socket.

8. Remove the battery plate.

9. Press down on the wire retainer of the engine management system wiring harness.

10. Disconnect the harness connector and the crankshaft position sensor connector.

11. Remove the crankshaft position sensor connector from the spring clip located on the gearbox housing.

12. Cut the plastic clamp that secures the crankshaft position and oxygen concentration sensor wiring harnesses.

13. Unscrew the crankshaft position sensor mounting bolt using a "10" socket with an extension.

14. Remove the crankshaft position sensor from its seat in the clutch housing.

Note. The connection between the sensor and the clutch housing is sealed with a rubber ring.

15. Disconnect a block of wires from a switch of light of a backing.

16. Disconnect the block from the speed sensor.

17. Unscrew the speed sensor using a “27” wrench.

18. Remove the speed sensor.

Note. For a car with a flexible shaft of the speedometer drive, instead of items 9–18, do 19–20.

19. Unscrew the cap nut of the flexible shaft of the speedometer drive using the pliers.

20. Take out the flexible shaft of the speedometer drive.

21. Unscrew the fastening nut of the starter power cable lug using the “12” socket with an extension.

22. Disconnect the wire lug from the traction relay terminal.

23. Unscrew the fastening nut of the traction relay control wire lug using the “10” socket with an extension.

24. Disconnect the wire lug from the traction relay terminal.

25. Unscrew the lower starter mounting bolt using the “12” socket.

26. Remove the bolt and wire harness mounting bracket.

27. Unscrew the upper starter mounting bolt using a 12-inch socket with an extension.

29. Disconnect the oxygen concentration sensor connector.

30. Remove the oxygen concentration sensor connector from the bracket.

32. Remove the block of wires from the gauge of the gauge of temperature of the coolant.

33. Remove the connector from the coolant temperature sensor.

34. Squeeze the retaining clamp for the radiator outlet hose and the connecting tube using pliers.

35. Disconnect the hose and connecting tube.

36. Squeeze the fastening clamp of the hose for supplying the working fluid to the heater radiator using pliers.

37. Disconnect the hose and the branch pipe located on the thermostat housing.

38. Remove the cables of selection and inclusion of gears from the levers of the gear change mechanism.

39. Remove the shift cable sheath from the cable bracket on the shift box.

40. Unscrew the two upper fastening bolts of the gearbox to the BC using the "14" head with an extension.

41. Move aside the connecting tube with the hose.

42. Unscrew the two mounting bolts of the bracket for the selection and shift cables using a 12-head socket with an extension.

43. Move the bracket with cables to the side.

44. Unscrew the left side member extension mounting bolt using a “10” spanner.

45. Unscrew the rear side member extension retaining nut using the “14” head.

46. ​​Unscrew the two front left side member extension mounting bolts using the "14" head.

47. Bend the cotter pin securing the stabilizer bar mounting nut to the left arm using a screwdriver.

49. Unscrew the stabilizer bar fixing nut using the “17” socket.

50. Remove the outer spherical washer.

51. Remove the outer rubber bushing from the hole in the front suspension arm.

52. Repeat steps 44-51 on the right side of the vehicle.

53. Dismantle the car's anti-roll bar together with the side member extensions, first remove both ends of the stabilizer bar from the suspension arms.

54. Unscrew the front wheel hub bearing nut.

55. Remove the wheel from the side of the drive to be dismantled.

56. Loosen the lock nut of the outer end of the tie rod, using a wrench "17"; keep the tie rod end from turning with a second wrench of the same size.

57. Straighten the ends of the cotter pin using the pliers.

58. Remove the cotter pin of the ball joint pin locknut.

59. Unscrew the pin retaining nut to the lever.

60. Do not unscrew the finger nut completely.

61. Insert a mounting paddle between the outer tip and the bottom of the shock strut.

62. Squeeze the steering link down, striking with a hammer on the end of the steering knuckle lever (this should lead to the extrusion of the hinge pin).

63. Unscrew the lock nut completely.

64. Remove the pin from the hole in the steering knuckle arm.

65. Unscrew the tie rod end using a “17” wrench; prevent the steering rod from turning by holding it by the hexagon with a “12” spanner.

66. Dismantle the outer end of the tie rod, counting the number of unscrewing revolutions.

67. Disconnect the front suspension arm ball joint and the steering knuckle.

68. Move to the side of the steering knuckle and shock absorber.

69. Remove the splined shank of the outer joint of the drive from the wheel hub; if extracting the shank by hand causes complications - lightly tap with a hammer with a plastic tip on the end of the shank.

Note. Avoid significant axial and angular displacements of the drive shaft relative to the outer hinge housing.

70. Hold the drive shaft.

71. Push the shank of the inner CV joint body out of the spline hole of the drive gear, for which you should rest the mounting blade on the gearbox housing.

72. Remove the wheel drive.

73. Unscrew the three securing bolts of the gearbox housing protection using a wrench.

74. Remove the gearbox housing protection.

75. Unscrew the nut of the clamping bolt of the clutch release lever using a wrench; keep the bolt from turning with the head.

76. Disconnect the lever from the shaft.

77. Unscrew the two bracket mounting bolts using the socket.

78. Move aside from the clutch housing the clutch release cable.

79. Unscrew the upper mounting bolt of the left support bracket of the power unit to the gearbox housing using a wrench.

80. Unscrew the three lower support bracket mounting bolts using the socket.

81. Squeeze the ends of the hose clamp and the thermostat cover nipple, then slide the clamp over the hose (use long jaw pliers).

82. Disconnect the hose from the thermostat cover nipple.

83. Dismantle the left support of the power unit together with the bracket.

84. Unscrew the bolt on the gearbox using the head (under this bolt the tip of the “ground” wire is fixed).

85. Remove the three clutch housing mudguard retaining bolts using the extension socket.

87. Support the gearbox housing from below with an adjustable stop.

88.Unscrew the lower securing bolt of the gearbox to the engine block using the head.

89. Remove the input shaft from the flywheel and clutch disc by moving the gearbox to the left of the engine.

Note. When dismantling and installing the input shaft, do not allow it to affect the petals of the pressure spring of the clutch cover.

90. Before installing the gearbox, apply a thin layer of grease to the spline of the input shaft.

91. Install the checkpoint in the reverse order.

92. When installing the clutch release drive lever on the shaft, align the mark on the end of the shaft with the mark on the lever.

93. Fill the gearbox preferably with fresh oil.

94. Fill the engine cooling system with liquid.

You have come to the forum of Daewoo Matiz and Ravon R2 Club members. To view all sections of the forum, post answers and create your own topics, you must go through the registration procedure. It's fast and completely free! Matiz & R2 Club.

Register to get an account. It's simple!

Already Registered? Sign in here.

In the official Daewoo service in Krasnoyarsk, where effective managers are sitting who are ready to push you spare parts past the checkout, they were generally surprised - one day they said that this gasoline is so bad in our country, they will be charged with acetone. The next day they said that you need to do a drip. repair (mileage 105 thousand, the problem appeared a long time ago). They were sent in a known direction. For, as I understand it, their main goal is to process the client to shell out for the largest amount of dough.

Good day to all!
Matiz II, 2011, 0.8 liter engine.
Mileage 36,000 and sentenced to the right pillow, which is located on the right side member, next to the timing cover.

Questions:
1. Do I understand it correctly in the diagram (attached) pos. 30 (96610689)?
2. Is it possible to replace this pillow on your own, without hanging the engine?
Many thanks to all who responded!

There are no users viewing this page.

We will show you how to change the oil in the manual gearbox of the manual transmission of the Daewoo Matiz with our own hands. The oil change in the manual transmission must be carried out on a warm car. In order to get to the drain plug, it is necessary to first remove the protection, for this we unscrew the three fastening bolts with a 12 head. Unscrew the drain plug with a “square” wrench, 3/8 ″ (≈9.5mm), with a filling wrench 24. First, unscrew the filler plug so that when the oil is drained, it does not splash when draining.

The oil level in the box can be checked by unscrewing the filler plug and sticking a finger or a piece of paper folded in there. We unscrew the drain plug, substitute the necessary container in advance. Do not forget to clean the plug, it is equipped with a magnet that attracts metal shavings. We tighten the drain plug back, tightening torque 25-30 Nm.

The new transmission oil which we will fill with semi-synthetic “FX 75W-85” semi-synthetics (from my experience I recommend taking synthetics):

New oil will be poured using this technical syringe:

We connect a flexible hose to it. We put the hose from the syringe into the filler hole and squeeze out the oil. We tighten the filler plug, tightening torque 35-54 Nm. Installing the crankcase protection back.

Video of changing the oil in the manual gearbox of the manual transmission Daewoo Matiz:

Backup video how to change the oil in the manual transmission box Daewoo Matiz: