To repair a gearbox on a Gazelle, you should know everything about the transfer case, because disassembling the gearbox is not an easy task. It is also necessary to determine the type of breakdown. The most popular reason for replacing the gearbox with Gazelle owners is oil leakage. It occurs due to worn out gaskets or bushings, worn out gaskets, as well as a violation of the tightness of the plugs. In this case, you will need to add or change the oil on the car, as well as replace the bushing.
How to remove the box? Replacement of the checkpoint is carried out on an overpass or inspection pit. First, drain the oil from the crankcase. Now we remove the gimbal. To do this, arm yourself with a file and put a notch on the connecting unit and the continuation of the gearbox on the gazelle. Now remove the support hardware using the thirteen and twelve wrenches. With the keys for seventeen and fourteen, we remove the fixing of the cardan to the flange of the main gear gear. We remove the shank and push the rags into the hole. Now we need to get the lever to install the gearbox. To do this, we get rid of the cover and the top of the lever inside the cab, unclench the bushing, remove the rubber cushion, the floor seal and the cover, the cap and the lever itself.
Next, we disconnect the speedometer from the transmission together with the rear light switch. Now you can remove the transfer box. How to disassemble the gearbox housing? To do this, get rid of the fixing of the receiving pipes and the bracket, disconnect the transmission from the clutch housing, create a protection from a wooden block for the block head. We proceed to remove the transverse fixation of the transfer case and remove the device. Be careful as it can weigh up to 30 kg. Install a new item. Be careful not to damage or miss the stepped transfer case.
VIDEO
Now we start assembling the Gazelle checkpoint. The assembly of the box is carried out in the reverse order. Please note that the shafts must be installed at the same time, for this, tie them up in advance. Inspect the input shaft, shank, bushing, crankcase, output shaft and all gears. Wash them in kerosene or diesel. If there are traces of rust, sand. The fasteners are coated with sealant and the elements are coated with gear oil.
Before installing the splines, lubricate them with SHRUS-4, and during the assembly of the universal joint, follow the correspondence of the marks and pay attention to the gear ratio. It is an important indicator of the adequate performance of a mechanical device. After repairing the Gazelle gearbox, replenish the amount of oil in the crankcase.
Features of the repair of the gearbox "Gazelle"
Features of Gazelle gearbox repair
How the gearbox is arranged on the Gazelle
When a gearbox repair is needed
The main malfunctions of the gearbox on GAZ 3307 cars
How to repair a Gazelle checkpoint
Essential tool for removing and disassembling the box
Step-by-step instructions on how to remove the box
Disassembly and assembly of the Gazelle gearbox
Do not think that repairing a Gazelle checkpoint with your own hands is easy. The gearbox is a complex mechanism that transfers torque from the engine shaft to the drive wheels. Your safety depends on it and the slightest deviations in the operation of the checkpoint signal the need for diagnostics. You should not be afraid of difficulties - after all, the service station may not be nearby, and step-by-step instructions will help to successfully cope with the matter even for a novice car enthusiast.
The Gazelle checkpoint is reliable and durable. But constant loads sometimes lead to its breakdown. Repair of the Gazelle gearbox will require from the driver:
knowledge of the materiel of the car;
the ability to remove the checkpoint, disassemble, and then assemble and put in place;
strict adherence to safety regulations;
attention, accuracy and patience.
Transmission - mechanical, five-speed. Consists of:
two aluminum crankcases (connected with 10 bolts);
primary and secondary shafts (connected to the crankshaft and cardan);
an intermediate shaft with cut teeth of the 1st gear and reverse gear, a pressed gear block and a speedometer drive gear;
inertial synchronizers;
spring balls for gear fixing;
blocking the inclusion of gears at the same time;
a damper lever device;
The signal for urgent repair of the Gazelle gearbox is:
Inability to change gear or if it is difficult to do so.
When you try to turn on the gear while driving, a loud crack is heard.
Self-inclusion of the transfer (threatens the danger of an accident).
Any extraneous noise, crunching, tapping at the checkpoint.
Scheduled diagnostics of the Gazelle checkpoint should be carried out every 300,000 km.
Long-term operation of Gazelle cars made it possible to make a list of the main faults of the Gazelle gearbox and their possible reasons:
Cause of humming noise during operation - destruction of worn parts or loosening of fastening bolts;
Crunch at the checkpoint - destruction of bearings;
Crackle when switching - the synchronizer rings are worn out;
Difficulty shifting speeds - jamming in the gearbox drive, wear of gears, burrs, etc. (you need to disassemble and look);
Self-switching off speeds - misalignment of gear teeth, wear of rods and forks, loosening of gearbox and driven shaft fasteners;
Oil loss - a crack in the crankcases, loosening of fasteners, wear of the gasket, oil seal, etc.
A breakdown was found, the reasons were found out - it remains to start repairing. To do this, it is necessary to remove and disassemble the checkpoint.
For repairs, you will need an inspection pit or overpass, as well as tools:
a set of keys (for 10, 12, 13, 14, 17, 19);
Screwdriver Set;
beard;
wooden blocks;
pliers (pliers);
mount;
strippers;
hammer;
file, sandpaper;
brass lining or copper hammer;
mandrel for old oil seals.
container for draining oil;
rags;
SHRUS-4, gear oil, GOI paste.
When repairing a Gazelle checkpoint with your own hands, first of all, you need to drive the car onto an overpass or inspection pit. After that, proceed to remove the box:
Step 1 - free the crankcase from oil;
Step 2 - remove the gimbal:
using a file, mark the position of the cardan joint and the gearbox extension, as well as the cardan and rear axle flanges;
using keys 12 and 13, remove the fasteners for the intermediate support;
using keys 14 and 17, remove the cardan fasteners to the flange of the main gear drive gear;
remove the shank from the gearbox (pull it back and pull it out);
Plug the hole with a rag.
Step 3 - get the lever:
from inside the cab, remove the cover and the upper part of the lever;
unclench the spacer sleeve, remove the rubber pad and locking sleeve;
remove the floor seal and the protective cover, unscrew the cover and remove the lever.
Step 4 - disconnect the speedometer and reversing light switch from the checkpoint.
Step 5 - remove the checkpoint:
unscrew the fasteners of the intake pipes and the bracket to the gearbox (keys 12 and 14);
disconnect the gearbox from the clutch housing (4 nuts);
protect the block head with a wooden block;
remove the cross member of the gearbox mounting and shaking, giving back the box itself.
Troubleshooting requires overhauling the Gazelle gearbox. Disassembly of the checkpoint must be done in stages:
Remove the bearing cover, change the oil seal (key 12, screwdriver, mandrel).
Remove the reversing axle bushing fasteners (spanner 13).
Remove the input shaft bearing circlip (thin screwdriver).
Remove breather.
Disconnect the crankcases (12 wrench, hammer and brass mandrel).
Engage reverse gear (by turning the input shaft).
Remove the gear fork mount (spanner 10).
Remove the lever bodies and the plate with the gasket (key 12).
Remove the springs and balls (3 each) of the retainers (magnetic screwdriver).
Remove the rods in order - 1, 2, 5, reverse, 3 and 4 gears and the locking pin.
Using a wrench 13, unscrew the fastening of the reverse gear axle and remove the circlip of the rear bearing of the output shaft.
Remove the shafts (using a copper hammer) and disassemble them. When disassembling, carefully lay out the parts in order, mark their relative position.
Assembling the Gazelle gearbox after repair is carried out in the reverse order. The shafts should be installed at the same time (tie with twine). Before assembly, you should carefully inspect the crankcase (for cracks, notches, bumps). Wash all parts (in kerosene, diesel fuel), inspect (bearings, shafts, gaskets, gear teeth, etc.). Any traces of corrosion, grind the faces. Replace all broken or suspicious parts with new ones, lubricate with transmission oil, SHRUS-4 (cuffs, splines, etc.). Treat the crankcase fasteners with sealant. Do-it-yourself Gazelle gearbox bearings should be replaced every 100,000 km.
Installing the gearbox The gearbox is installed in the reverse order. The slots must be lubricated with SHRUS-4. Next, a cardan is placed (you need to make sure that the marks match). After installing the gearbox, pour in 1.2 liters. oil into the crankcase (up to the filler hole). As you have seen, the work on the checkpoint repair is large and preparation for it must be serious.
We remove the gearbox. We wrap the filler and drain plugs in place.
We remove the clutch with the bearing and the foam rubber rings of the front cover.
Remove the power unit support. Remove the reversing light switch (see Replacing the reversing light switch). Remove the speedometer drive (see Replacing the speedometer drive).
Using a 12 key, unscrew the three bolts securing the bearing cover (the bolts are installed on the sealant).
Remove the cover with the gasket.
When installing it later, pay attention to the coincidence of the oil drainage channel in the cover and the holes in the crankcase.
Prying off with a screwdriver, remove the input shaft seal from the cover (when disassembling the gearbox, we replace all the cuffs, regardless of their condition).
Press in a new cuff with a mandrel or a head of a suitable diameter.
Using the "13" key, unscrew and remove the bolt securing the bushing of the reverse gear axle to the front crankcase.
Use a thin screwdriver to pry and remove the input shaft bearing retaining ring.
Turn the key "12" and remove the breather.
Using a 12 key, unscrew ten bolts connecting the front and rear crankcases (two bolts passing through the dowel sleeves are longer than the others).
By gently tapping the brass mandrel with a hammer, undo the front and rear crankcases.
ATTENTION In this case, do not strike at the end of the input shaft, as the synchronizers will be damaged.
Disconnect the gearbox housings.
Carefully, trying not to damage, remove the gasket.
We take out the adjusting shims from the bore under the intermediate shaft bearing in the front crankcase (they may not be there). In this case, the axial clearance in the bearings is set only by the crankcase seal.
Turning the input shaft, we turn on the reverse gear (we move the V gear and reverse gear forward).
Using the "10" key, unscrew the bolts of the three gear shift forks.
Using the "12" key, unscrew the four bolts securing the gear lever housing.
Remove the lever housing with a gasket.
Using the "12" wrench, unscrew the bolts of the rod retainer plate.
We remove the plate with the gasket.
We take out three springs and three balls of gearshift clamps (they can be removed with a magnetized screwdriver or by turning the box over).
We take out the rod of the 1st – 2nd gear (so as not to confuse it during assembly, we immediately put the plug on the rod and fasten it with a bolt).
We take out the rod of the V gear and reverse gear by putting the appropriate plug on it.
We take out the rod of III-IV gears. Remove the blocker pin from the stem.
To prevent the plungers of the blocker from falling out, we insert tubes rolled from thick paper into the holes of the rods.
Using the "13" key, unscrew the bolt securing the reverse gear axle to the rear crankcase.
Using pliers, we push apart the tendrils of the circlip of the rear bearing of the secondary shaft and, tapping with a copper hammer on the rear end of the secondary shaft, ...
… We take out the set of shafts together with the axle and reverse gear.
Disconnect the primary and secondary shafts.
We remove the IV gear synchronizer and take out 14 rollers of the front support of the secondary shaft. Gears, synchronizers and other parts located on the input and output shafts are similar to each other, therefore, to facilitate subsequent assembly, they should be carefully laid out in the order of removal.
Using two thin screwdrivers or special pliers, we unclench and remove the locking ...
With a beard (with two mounting blades or a special puller) we press the input shaft bearing.
Similarly, remove both intermediate shaft bearings.
Installing the output shaft vertically in a vice through soft shims.
... and a snap ring of the 3rd – 4th gear clutch hub.
Remove the clutch assembly with breadcrumbs and synchronizer springs.
It is better not to disassemble this kit, but if such a need arises, mark the relative position of the parts.
ATTENTION The gear clutches are not symmetrical, so they only fit in one position.
Removing the synchronizer ring ...
... and a gear wheel for 3rd gear with a plastic cage and rollers.
Use a screwdriver to pry on and remove the retaining ring ...
With a magnetized screwdriver, take out the locking ball of the half rings.
We remove the gear wheel of the 2nd gear with the bearing.
Remove the 2nd gear synchronizer ring.
Removing the clutch for engaging 1st-2nd gears ...
... and the 1st gear synchronizer ring.
Remove the 1st gear with the bearing. We carry out further disassembly of the secondary shaft from the other end.
Prying off with a thin screwdriver, remove the locking ...
We remove the drive gear of the speedometer drive ...
... and take out its locking ball.
Using two mounting blades or a special puller, we remove the rear bearing of the secondary shaft.
We take out the pin with pliers.
Remove the V gear with bearing ...
Remove the spacer ring.
We remove the spring ring with special pliers and screwdrivers and then ...
… The clutch for engaging the 5th gear and reverse gear.
Remove the synchronizer ring.
Remove the reverse gear with bearing.
ATTENTION The thickness of the spacer between the gearbox housings determines the axial clearance in the intermediate shaft bearings. Therefore, we must install it, lubricating it with a thin layer of sealant for reliability. Sealant should also be applied to all other cardboard gaskets of the transmission.
When assembling, the bolts connecting the crankcase parts should be degreased and the threads covered with sealant. After installing the unit on the car, do not forget to fill the box with 1.2 liters of transmission oil (up to the level of the filler hole).
kharchishin 14 Mar 2014
I bring to your attention a video tutorial on repairing a Gazelle gearbox.
The video tutorial tells in detail about the sequence of disassembling and assembling the box, and troubleshooting parts.
VIDEO
VIDEO
Cool video report! Well done!
Alexey malodov 14 Mar 2014
along the way when you disassembled the prom shaft box, you also need to legalize the free wheeling in the case, but you didn’t do that, and so it’s all good
gruzovoz2009 14 Mar 2014
I bring to your attention a video tutorial on repairing a Gazelle gearbox. The video tutorial tells in detail about the sequence of disassembling and assembling the box, and troubleshooting parts.
VIDEO
VIDEO
shurhen80 14 Mar 2014
With a hammer on the primary, and then on the secondary. Wasn't a piece of copper or aluminum lying around.
And then also the shaft in a vice for the teeth
Synchronizer couplings are practically not described (in terms of what, how, where, components)
The bearing seats in the gearbox covers were not checked.
It is not shown how to adjust the intermediate shaft, and this is one of the most important components.
Not a word about oil seals and breather.
For the rest: an excellent manual for gearbox repair
All of the above is not offensive to the author, but in order to see a more complete video with additions to the ones presented.
ivan4310 14 Mar 2014
I join! Just perfect! Such a manual for each unit and unit and no books are needed, and much of the books do not specify. That rare moment when I spent a little over an hour of my life watching videos on YouTube, and I don't regret it a bit
kharchishin 19 Mar 2014
Such would be a manual for each unit and unit, and no books are needed.
There is still an order for the repair of the rear axle, so there will be a new video tutorial soon
also thanks to shurhen80 for the comments. and in response they post the third part of the video tutorial on repairing the checkpoint
VIDEO
rusgg 20 Mar 2014
13.43 fifth and back
rusgg 20 Mar 2014
but at 29.00 it is better to change the ring, otherwise it will break the groove on the shaft and fly out, after which the fifth will disappear and the speedometer will be silent.
it is then treated by replacing the shaft, which is on sale only like raw
rusgg 20 Mar 2014
bearings need to look for shells.
the shaft must be checked at least the fifth "treadmill" with a vernier caliper, it looks like it is squashed a lot (it sits forward) and breaks the gear, having worn out the teeth.
It is better to put the 5th gear washer “from below”, the bearing will then have a more uniform load, although this is a trifle.
the gears can be half, that is, the clutch engagement is separated from the gear and dangles.
wear of the cage of the clutch and gear engagement, which leads to the flying out of the gears.
Post has been editedusgg on: 20 March 2014 - 07:06
If you have leaking oil seals from the Gazelle checkpoint, do not ring the bells. In this article, we will tell you step by step how to repair the Gazelle checkpoint with your own hands.
Repairing a Gazelle checkpoint is an easy procedure and it is much cheaper to do it yourself than to repair it at a service station. To do this, you will need to acquire some parts and tools, read our DIY gearbox repair instructions and learn how to disassemble the gearbox.
In order to cope with this process you will need a set of keys and a screwdriver. Dismantling and repairing the Gazelle gearbox with your own hands consists in completely draining the oil, unscrewing the bolts, carefully removing the cover without damaging the gasket.
You will also need to remove the elastic clutch and the gearshift mechanism itself. Then remove the back cover and unscrew all the gears, pull out the bearing and the clutch fork. Next, you need to knock the clutch housing and block the intermediate shaft. You will need to unscrew a bunch of balls and springs. And using an impact screwdriver, unscrew all the remaining screws and completely disassemble the box. This process, as you can see, requires experience and knowledge. But to replace the oil seals, fortunately you need to go a little less way.
Disassembled gearbox for parts
Socket wrench for 30;
screwdriver;
mount;
container for draining;
key for 17;
hammer;
mandrel for old oil seals.
You will also need to purchase a drive oil seal, but first make sure which one you need, left or right ... How do they differ from each other:
different direction of arrows on the inside;
different numbers at the ends of catalog numbers;
different product color.
We drive into the pit.
Pour out the oil (one liter is enough).
Get rid of the wheel bolts and remove the nut from the bearing (front hub only).
Where the lower ball joint is located, unscrew the two bolts.
Now move the lower arm down. And we take out the end of the drive.
Climb under the car and plug in the drive.
Use a screwdriver to remove the oil seal itself.
There is a new oil seal in the hand
Now take a new part and insert it. There is no need to press all the way.
Now it's the other way around, push the box back, push the lever up, tighten the bolts, put on the bearing.
And most importantly, don't forget to put the oil back in!
Done, do-it-yourself Gazelle gearbox repair done.
We wish you a smooth and trouble-free ride! Remember that many problems can be solved on their own without resorting to service centers and expensive procedures. Everything can be learned even the first time.
Watch the video on our website on how to properly remove the gearbox in a garage.
To repair the gazelle gearbox, you need to remove the gearbox. At the beginning, the vehicle is set up on an overpass or inspection pit to provide easy access to the gearbox. Then disconnect the gear shift lever from the transmission. Inside the body there is a rubber floor seal to the lever handle.
Next, the rubber protective seal is removed from the gearshift neck cap, the cap is unscrewed and the lever is removed from the neck. Then you need to drain the oil from the box. The propeller shaft, flexible cable of the wire of the reverse light switch and the speed sensor are disconnected.
Then the two bolts securing the slave cylinder to the clutch housing are unscrewed.Further, the working cylinder with the pusher rises up, without disconnecting it from the pipeline. Then the clutch release fork is removed.
Next, you need to unscrew the fastening bolts to the gearbox housing and muffler pipes. Next, the connecting bracket of the muffler suspension is removed, the nuts securing the rear support to the gearbox are unscrewed. Then disconnect the cross member from the side member brackets. Next, the nuts of the box fastening studs are unscrewed.
When repairing, you need to disassemble the parts of the box and rinse the parts thoroughly. Then carefully inspect the parts for rupture of gaskets, creasing, wear of the spherical head of the lever, cracks on the covers, chips on the side surfaces, loosening of pins, wear on the legs of the shift forks.
Then the damaged parts are replaced. And the box is assembled in the opposite way to how it was disassembled. Now you can put it back in place.
Loose tightening of the locking bolts of the shift heads can cause a malfunction of the gazelle box. This can be corrected by tightening the locking bolts. If the pin holes in the shift lever housing are broken, replace the shift lever housing or bore holes and press in the shoulder pins.
If the clutch is not fully disengaged, air in the clutch release hydraulic drive, it is necessary to bring the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir to normal, it is advisable to bleed the clutch hydraulic drive system.
1. Remove dirt and wash the outside of the gearbox. 2. Unscrew the oil filler and oil drain plugs and drain the oil from the transmission, if not previously done.
3. Remove the clutch release bearing and foam ring 1 from the guide sleeve.
4. Unscrew the bolts and remove the rear engine support with the bracket, if not done when removing the gearbox from the vehicle.
5. Unscrew the reversing light switch with gasket.
6. Unscrew the bolt 1 securing the stopper of the speedometer drive, remove the stopper 2 and the speedometer drive 3.
8. Unscrew four bolts 1 and remove housing 2 of the gear lever with a gasket.
9. Unscrew three bolts 1 and remove the bearing cover of the input shaft with the guide sleeve 2 of the clutch release bearing with a gasket.
10. Remove the bolt securing the idler reverse gear axle on the front gearbox housing.
11. Remove the input shaft bearing retaining ring if it needs to be replaced.
Be sure to remove the large retaining ring, otherwise do not open the box.
To repair the gazelle gearbox, you need to remove the gearbox. At the beginning, the vehicle is set up on an overpass or inspection pit to provide easy access to the gearbox. Then disconnect the gear shift lever from the transmission. Inside the body there is a rubber floor seal to the lever handle.
Next, the rubber protective seal is removed from the gearshift neck cap, the cap is unscrewed and the lever is removed from the neck. Then you need to drain the oil from the box. The propeller shaft, flexible cable of the wire of the reverse light switch and the speed sensor are disconnected.
Then the two bolts securing the slave cylinder to the clutch housing are unscrewed. Further, the working cylinder with the pusher rises up, without disconnecting it from the pipeline. Then the clutch release fork is removed.
Next, you need to unscrew the fastening bolts to the gearbox housing and muffler pipes. Next, the connecting bracket of the muffler suspension is removed, the nuts securing the rear support to the gearbox are unscrewed. Then disconnect the cross member from the side member brackets. Next, the nuts of the box fastening studs are unscrewed.
When repairing, you need to disassemble the parts of the box and rinse the parts thoroughly.Then carefully inspect the parts for rupture of gaskets, creasing, wear of the spherical head of the lever, cracks on the covers, chips on the side surfaces, loosening of pins, wear on the legs of the shift forks.
Then the damaged parts are replaced. And the box is assembled in the opposite way to how it was disassembled. Now you can put it back in place.
Loose tightening of the locking bolts of the shift heads can cause a malfunction of the gazelle box. This can be corrected by tightening the locking bolts. If the pin holes in the shift lever housing are broken, replace the shift lever housing or re-bore the holes and press in the shoulder pins.
If the clutch is incompletely disengaged, air in the clutch release hydraulic drive, it is necessary to bring the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir to normal, it is advisable to bleed the clutch hydraulic drive system.
How to repair a Gazelle checkpoint yourself
If you have leaking oil seals from the Gazelle checkpoint, do not ring the bells. Here we will conduct a conversation step by step how to repair the Gazelle checkpoint at home.
Repair The Gazelle checkpoint is an easy procedure and it is much cheaper to make it yourself than to repair it at a service station. For this purpose, you need to acquire some parts and tools, read our instructions for repair gearbox independently and learn how to disassemble the checkpoint.
If you set a goal to cope with this process, you need a set of keys and a screwdriver. Disassembly and repair The Gazelle gearbox at home consists in completely draining the oil, unscrewing the bolts, carefully removing the cover without damaging the gasket.
You also need to remove the elastic clutch and the gearshift mechanism itself. Then remove the back cover and unscrew what remains for our client to do the gears, pull out the bearing and the clutch fork. Next, you need to knock the clutch housing and block the intermediate shaft. You need to unscrew a bunch of balls and springs. And with the help of an impact screwdriver, it remains for our client to unscrew the remaining screws and completely disassemble the box. Process This is a common rumor, as you can see, requiring experience and knowledge. However, to replace the oil seals, modern ones need to go a little less.
Disassembled gearbox for parts
VIDEO
Gazelle gearbox repair ... The sequence of disassembling the box. Troubleshooting of parts. Autoignal group
Socket wrench for 30;
screwdriver;
mount;
container for draining;
key for 17;
hammer;
mandrel for old oil seals.
You will also need to purchase a drive oil seal, but first make sure which one you need, left or right ... How do they differ from each other:
different direction of arrows on the inside;
different numbers at the ends of catalog numbers;
different product color.
We drive into the pit.
Pour out the oil (one liter is enough).
Get rid of the wheel bolts and remove the nut from the bearing (front hub only).
Where the lower ball joint is located, unscrew the two bolts.
Now move the lower arm down. And we take out the end of the drive.
Climb under the car and plug in the drive.
Use a screwdriver to remove the oil seal itself.
Video (click to play).
There is a new oil seal in the hand
Now take a new part and insert it. There is no need to press all the way.
Now it's the other way around, push the box back, push the lever up, tighten the bolts, put on the bearing.
And most importantly, don't forget to put the oil back in!
Finish, renovation gearbox Do-it-yourself gazelle done.
We wish you a smooth and trouble-free ride! Remember that many problems can be solved by their forces, without resorting to service centers and expensive procedures. Everything can be learned even the first time.
Watch the video on our website on how to properly remove the gearbox in a garage.