DIY Luaz box repair

In detail: do-it-yourself Luaz box repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

2) Opened the cover and removed the gear shift control housing assembly with levers
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3) Unscrew the plugs of the rods (3 pieces) and the plug of the interlocking locks
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4) Remove the two retainer springs, then you will find the balls at the bottom of the gearbox
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5) Unscrew the forks fastening bolts (2 pieces)
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6) Remove another bolt from the wire
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8) Screw the thread M6 hairpin into the slider rod
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9) Pull out the sliders one by one and pull out all the forks.
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10) Pull out the sliders one by one and pull out all the forks.
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11) Unscrew 8 nuts (2 at the top inside, they are fixed here with this plate)
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12) Separate the lower case from the gearbox with gentle hammer blows
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13) The bottom of the lower cover is broken, the oil seal sticks out
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14) Unscrew the cover of the clips and remove the 3 springs. You will find 3 balls later on the bottom
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15) Unscrew the bolt of the driver, the ZX shift lever
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17) Unscrew the two bolts and remove this crap assembly
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18) Engage the third gear and engage the gear ZX with your fingers
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19) Unscrew the final drive shaft nut
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20) Remove the ZM engagement ring, the gear block and another gear
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Are you wondering when it is better to repair a Luaz gearbox in order to save money, effort, nerves and time, if noise bothers you when the car is moving, the gear shifts poorly or "shows independence"? Get in on the repair right away so that a small defect doesn't turn into a big, costly problem. And this is not excluded.

Video (click to play).

Do not hope that the synchronizer rings will not affect the operation of the Luaz gearbox, because they wear out gradually and can be replaced during the next maintenance work. However, the consequence of such a malfunction can be wear, for example, of the gear synchronizer rim or the clutch, the repair of which will be much more expensive and require more effort and time.

The design of the car is so simple that many parts can be replaced. It is better to check and replace worn-out parts after running 15,000 kilometers. Timely repair of the LuAZ gearbox, elimination of minor faults extends the life of the gearbox and prevents more time-consuming work. When diagnosing, if possible, disassembly work, even partial ones, should be avoided, and during repair, follow the step-by-step instructions for all stages of maintenance work.

- prepare a special device so that it is convenient to disassemble and assemble not only the box, but also the differential,

- before starting work, completely drain the oil, thoroughly remove dirt and wash the box,

- strictly observe the sequence of disassembly by installing the gearbox on a special device,

- when the LuAZ gearbox is reanimated, use a soft punch and light tapping to press out the drive shaft, gears, hub, intermediate shaft,

- put sequence numbers on gear bushings, needle bearings and synchronizer rings, because their rearrangement is excluded,

- it is imperative to replace bearings, gears, if at least in one place there is metal chipping, sealing surfaces of crankcases with nicks, risks or cracks, oil seals, flanges, drive o-rings on the speedometer, reduction gear axle and other parts, even with minor defects.

During the repair, you have to remove and unscrew many washers, nuts, bolts, screws that must be put in place. The LUAZ gearbox must be assembled so that all kits of parts, even if they have not been replaced, are in their places and in the same position as they were installed before disassembly.Elimination of a detected defect in time will add additional comfort to driving a car and extend its service life.

It is strictly forbidden to press the gear lever with force to the right while the car is moving when the fourth gear is engaged, since reverse gear may engage and the gearbox will break down.

For access to the gearbox, a hatch is provided, closed by a cover 2, to the filler plug 1 - a hatch in the cover 2, closed by a cover 3.

To access the filler plug 2 of the rear axle gearbox and to the gas tank, there are hatches in the floor of the body that are closed by covers 3 and 4.

Rice. Transmission: 1 - filler plug (oil level indicator); 2, 3 - cover; 4 - drain plug

Oil level control in these units it is carried out by oil level indicators with two risks. The oil level gauges are aligned with the filler plugs. Fill in oil up to the level of the upper mark (unscrew the pointer). Operation of the vehicle with the oil level below the lower risk is not allowed.

Rice. Rear axle reducer and drive shaft casing: 1, 5 - breather; 2 - filler plug (oil level indicator); 3 - cover; 6, 7 - drain plug; 8 - control hole plug

Oil leakage is eliminated by tightening drain plugs 4 and 6 or by replacing the gaskets under the plugs. If oil leaks through the lip seals, before removing the unit from the vehicle, clean the breather 1 from contamination and make sure that the oil level is not higher than the recommended one.

Many farmers are interested in how to make a homemade tractor from LUAZ. Agricultural machinery assembled from spare parts for various vehicles is gaining popularity among farmers. This trend is associated with high prices for the machinery of the machine-building plant. Considering that there are a lot of parts for assembling a home-made car on the market, it will not be difficult for craftsmen to assemble such an assembly.

Let's consider how to assemble a small-sized agricultural mini-tractor from LUAZ.

On the Internet, you can find many drawings for assembling a tractor with your own hands. Those who plan to assemble a homemade mini-tractor from a LUAZ car need to know that assembly will require many additional parts and mechanisms from other machines.

To assemble the tractor, you will need the following parts:

gear box;
bridge;
wheel reducers;
steering gear;
brakes;
electronics;
motor.

It doesn't matter what condition the car is in: working or out of order. All parts are revised again, cleaned and put into working order. It is desirable that all components be removed from one car, then it will be much easier to connect them.

The first step is to create the frame. This design is rectangular.

To make it you will need:

steel sheets,
channels,
body parts or water pipes.

The front and rear axles can be removed from the LUAZ or use the axle shafts from the T-25 by changing the hub.
If the engine of the car works normally, then it is left, otherwise the engine from another vehicle is used.

The engine is installed either gasoline or diesel. The second, due to its economy, is becoming more popular. For mini tractors, a motor from a walk-behind tractor is suitable. You can buy a new one or use the one removed from the old walk-behind tractor available on the farm.

Then they install discs and wheels from the main car or use modified rims from the GAZ-21.

When the base of the tractor is assembled, proceed to the creation of the hydraulic system.

Since the target direction of the tractor is agricultural work, it is necessary to assemble a mechanism for the suspension of attachments.

Therefore, the next step is to install the hydraulics, transmission, steering and clutch.

Most modern tractors are equipped with a power take-off shaft (PTO). This is the unit that transmits movement from the motor to the attachment. Instead of it, a pump NSh-10, a distributor P80 and a hydraulic cylinder are also installed.

The pump can be controlled (turned on and off at the right time) if a switchable drive is installed. It can be taken from the Ural motorcycle. It is necessary to remove the shift fork, 2 gears, shaft and splined couplings. So that the shaft can be put on the sprocket, it must be cut, and then increased by 5 cm. The drive housing is welded from 40x40 corners, the chain and sprocket will fit from the Planet motorcycle. Such a pump will operate at 1000 rpm.

Each master thinks through the assembly of the upper part of the tractor in his own way. The ingenuity and imagination of the designer is important here. It is important that a comfortable seat is installed and that weather protection is provided.

Before you start assembling a homemade mini tractor, you need to purchase all the necessary tools and materials for this business. In addition, you will need a welding machine to firmly connect the main parts of the unit.

And at hand there should be a well-thought-out diagram on which the dimensions and parameters will be indicated, and everything is thought out to the smallest detail. Without it, during the assembly process, you will have to constantly adjust the parts to the desired size.

Homemade tractors are in no way inferior to ready-made models. If they are assembled correctly and conscientiously, then they will serve for quite a long time, and the parts that have failed, if necessary, will not be difficult to change.

A self-assembled tractor can be adapted for any land work. On it you can:

to cultivate the soil;
remove weeds;
mow the grass;
fertilize the ground;
form beds;
plant and dig up potatoes;
transport heavy loads.

The range of use of this unit is much wider, but the main purpose is to plant various crops and harvest. If you think over and add attachments for clearing snow to the machine, then it can be successfully used to clear areas from snow obstructions. It will not be difficult for a craftsman who has managed to assemble a mini-tractor to design such equipment.

Let's consider how to assemble a small-sized agricultural mini-tractor from LUAZ.

To assemble the tractor, you will need the following parts:

gear box;
bridge;
wheel reducers;
steering gear;
brakes;
electronics;
motor.

The first step is to create the frame. This design is rectangular.

To make it you will need:

steel sheets,
channels,
body parts or water pipes.

The engine is installed either gasoline or diesel. The second, due to its economy, is becoming more popular.For mini tractors, a motor from a walk-behind tractor is suitable. You can buy a new one or use the one removed from the old walk-behind tractor available on the farm.

Then they install discs and wheels from the main car or use modified rims from the GAZ-21.

When the base of the tractor is assembled, proceed to the creation of the hydraulic system.

Since the target direction of the tractor is agricultural work, it is necessary to assemble a mechanism for the suspension of attachments.

Therefore, the next step is to install the hydraulics, transmission, steering and clutch.

A self-assembled tractor can be adapted for any land work. On it you can:

to cultivate the soil;
remove weeds;
mow the grass;
fertilize the ground;
form beds;
plant and dig up potatoes;
transport heavy loads.

At the end of 2007, I bought the remains of a tractor of a homemade frame assembled on the basis of a gearbox. (LuAZ, gearbox with a gearbox and clutch, and an exclusive rear axle, as well as parts of the hydraulic system). When the tractor was on the move, and as the owner said, they even plowed it on it. But he fell into the hands of the boys and was badly broken.

I liked the layout idea myself and took it. to redo the Beginnings and “bring to mind”. Spent the whole summer and vacation in 2008, he went with me: Video "Trial exit" but not all the issues were resolved, the box turned out to be "killed", it is necessary to sort out and change the direction of rotation. There are also problems with hydraulics.

The frame is welded from a U-shaped profile, there is a compound extension possibility.
The rear axle is homemade, the driving axle is from the T-25. Wheels 15 ″ from the UAZ vehicle.
Front parts from the T-25 suspension axle, homemade hubs, wheels from agricultural trailed units.
UD2 engine, gasoline air with four-stroke cooling
Single-disc clutch from LuAZ hydraulic, 969.
The connection of the engine with the transmission is belt
steering control from parts of a VAZ 2105 car.
mechanical brake system, with separate braking.

I am trying to describe the design of the transmission:

Driven pulley from the compressor Reducer.
ZIL130 1: 4, 2 from an agricultural vehicle (which one I do not know)
Behind a plate with a shaft, a flywheel and a clutch basket from a ZAZ car. The rear wall of the engine is cut off, the flange, ZAZ, the shaft with splines, the driven gear of the reducer is put on it, and on the other side is the flywheel. done Everything in the factory.
The gearbox is attached to the plate and suspended to the frame in front and behind.
The standard axle shafts are shortened, through the “homemade” universal joint they are connected to the leading sprockets.
Driving sprockets on bearings, attached with there, the frame has the ability to move them, for the purpose of tensioning the Rear.
The axle chain consists of two semi-shafts in a “made” stocking at the factory. The half-axles are apparently finished from the T-25. The construction of the bridge deserves a separate Kulachek.

the description of the steering column thrust was installed coaxially, centered with the swingarm of the front suspension. That wobbling "eliminates" the tractor on bumps.

Rear view of the brakes drum and driven sprocket The sprocket is combined with a drum with a monolithic and a fixing device, industrial production, I know not what.
Long time to solve the problem of brakes. found a way out. Made homemade pads "clamp" Drive. type mechanical, used a clutch cable 2108 VAZ. Pads from am "Moskvich", pre-steamed to size and cut. Riveted to the blocks.

Rear view of the trailed device
The slave cylinder is manufactured from a finished condition in a shortened workshop.
Originally the hydraulic cylinder was placed in the middle, I moved it to the right and strengthened it.
trapezium allowed to make a hole in the frame, the output for the drive "rear axle" to the hinged. Initially.
equipment, as conceived by the first owner, the chain drive through the transmission was supposed to be in action That NSh-10. the hydraulic pump was not convenient, it could only work in motion. I made a different decision.
Above you see the levers of the checkpoint controls, through the homemade Right.

mechanism of the pedal of the right and left brakes, the left pedal is blocked by the lever ratchet in the parking lot.
Right clutch pedal. The pedals are connected by a common shaft, the axle of the axle transmits the left torque for the brake.

Hydraulic Pump Drive Initial Used. option available 6 spline pump with homemade Manufactured. an asterisk drive using the car's pump instead of, a VAZ2101 impeller installed an asterisk from a moped, increased the diameter of the pulley by welding an additional pulley with a larger diameter. The gear case is homemade.

Distributor
three-section Distributor made in Bulgaria. 2 sections - taps for three ports (“positions”, “neutral”, “down”) and a section of safety Connections. The supply valves to the cylinder are connected by a bypass (upper), a valve is installed in the jumper connection. Provides a “floating” plow when plowing.

The hydraulics have not been worked out to the end, until I can find out why the emergency valve is triggered, and does not return to its original position. Anyone If anyone is familiar with the same distributor, please inform us convincingly!

Operating principle:
- in the downward position of the “lever” (lowering), the “drainage” of the lower working cavity of the cylinder opens, under the action of the force of the equipment of gravity and the pressure of the liquid coming from the pump from the upper through the union, the piston is lowered. The valve plays the role of a limiter, the attachment is lowered position.
- in the lever “up” (lift), the “upper” drainage of the working cylinder cavity opens, the fluid from the pump under pressure enters the lower cavity of the valve, the cylinder closes, the equipment rises and is fixed in the upper position.
- in the position of the lever “neutral” (equipment closed) the valve is raised prevents liquid from flowing from the cavity of the lower cylinder to the upper equipment does not fall.
- in the lever position “neutral” (the equipment is lowered, “floating at”) the mode of hitting the attachment (wheel unevenness) on the plow, the pressure in the upper cavity of the cylinder, the valve increases, opens and the liquid enters the lower equipment, the cavity rises. To return the supply plow (down "float") hold the distributor lever in the "down" position.

Currently, the tractor is in the stage of alteration, during the tests, the following shortcomings were revealed:
1. Torque is transmitted to the checkpoint counterclockwise, this leads to spontaneous shutdown of some gears under load. included Transmissions "hard", synchronizers do not work.
2. When the oil is heated, the hydraulics stop working. The reason has not yet been revealed.
3. The UD2 engine has a significant capricious, “wear” in operation.
The main design flaw in To. maintainability, remove the gearbox, it is necessary to disassemble the entire tractor.

There was an opportunity to come to grips with the alteration of the car.
The main task of the alteration is to change the direction of rotation of the primary shaft of the gearbox, in order to securely fix the gears, to prevent spontaneous shutdown under load. At the same time I decided to put everything in proper form, clean, paint, photograph and lay out the structure for viewing. In the process, replace worn-out parts, something to improve.
Here's what happened:
Testing on the move with a plow
video 1
roller 2

The frame is welded, the back part is made of pieces of U-shaped steel profile 100X50mm. front view of an insert made of steel strip 100x12mm. the parts are bolted together.

The gearbox and gearbox are fastened into a single whole and attached to the frame at 4 points with M10 bolts.

In the process of repairing the LuAZ gearbox, the idea arose of a device for independently switching on the "rear axle drive" and using it in this form to connect attachments, while the "low gear" had to be abandoned.

Other transmission parts:

The torque from the gearbox differential is transmitted to the driveshaft of the axle shaft. Further to the leading sprocket.

Modification of the gearbox of the UD2 engine

The UD2 engine (stationary version) is equipped with a gearbox. In which a centrifugal clutch is mounted on the end of the crankshaft, which is inconvenient when working at low speeds. Parking with engine braking is not possible. I blocked it.

The rear axle is made of high-strength steel at the factory. The torque is transmitted by means of chains with a pitch of 25mm. on the sprockets of the semiaxes. The axle consists of two axle shafts, with wheel hubs and driven sprockets - brake drums.
Half-shafts through bearings (tapered - outer and roller - inner) are enclosed in a "stocking" and are fixed from the side of the drums with flanges. On the outer side of the axle shafts there is a longitudinal slot for fixing the drums with a key, with an internal slot for the planned interwheel blocking.
Bridge stocking consists of three sections. Right and left are identical, bearings are installed in the flanges. Attachment pads to the frame are welded to the body. The sections are connected to each other by means of flanges with M8 bolts. The middle section housing has an oiler. In the future, you can replace it with the crankcase of the lock engaging mechanism. The flexural and fracture strength of the bridge is achieved by a reliable "blind" fastening to the frame and the quality of the steel.

Brake system
mechanical with separate right and left brakes.
Effort from the pedal lever, through the cable, is fed to the system of two levers. The adjustment is carried out by tensioning the cable and adjusting the circumference of the “clamp” of the pads.
Used cable clutches of cars of the VAZ 2108 type. Brake drums are used from agricultural. technicians and make up a single whole with the led scouts
Brake pads self-made from the sectors of the sawn steel pipe D-150, lugs are welded to them, from the inside I riveted the pads from the Moskvich pads.
Parking braking is carried out by fixing the left brake pedal in the depressed position using a lever with a ratchet.

2015 marked the 45th birthday of the Lutsk Automobile Plant. The cargo-passenger SUVs, the so-called "Bagpipes", manufactured by him, are quite popular. However, not everyone knows that they were taken as a basis for the creation of other equally interesting trucks, most of which, however, did not get into mass production.

In 1967, the Minavtoprom issued an order to rename the Lutsk Machine-Building Plant (LUMZ) into the Lutsk Automobile Plant. The profile of the enterprise was also changed, and it itself was reconstructed. Instead of car shops, repair shops, as well as refrigerators, a full production cycle of passenger cars with increased cross-country ability has been established.

In the 50s, NAMI developed a floating vehicle serving as an army transporter at the front line (abbreviated as TPK). The model was being finalized at ZAZ. The filling, namely the engine and some other units, were taken from Zaporozhets. In 1962, the prototype was fully manufactured. In parallel, work was underway on a civil, agricultural version of the unit.

The first manufactured goods Lutsk truck was the LuAZ-969F van with corrugated body sides. Tests were carried out in the 80s, it was not included in the series and was released in only two copies.

For the LuAZ-977M transporter produced in 1976, a place for the driver located in the center was characteristic, next to a stretcher and two passengers. The main feature is the ability to operate the machine in a lying position. To pull up the wounded was easier, a winch with a 150-meter cable is attached to the front. The speed of the ZAZ "air vent", with a capacity of 37 horsepower, is 75 km per hour on land, and a maximum of 4 on the water.

Unlike the production car model, the LuAZ-13021 prototype, created in 1980, had a cargo platform with an independent torsion bar suspension and dimensions of 1390 * 1050 * 320 millimeters. The folding sides are reinforced with an outer frame, on which hooks are attached to fix the awning. Such a truck can work with a LuAZ-8148-02 trailer, the carrying capacity of which reaches 155 kg.

"Ambulance", intended for rural areas - LuAZ-13021-08, endowed with high traffic and relatively low cost. The medical compartment contains a stretcher and a pair of folding seats. You can get into it using a swing door on the right or a rear lifting door. The driver's seat is fenced off with a sliding glass. As shown by the operation carried out in the city hospital, the car is suitable for work and successfully copes with its tasks.1965 - the time of release of the new refrigerated car LuMZ-890B, assembled on the basis of the chassis from the ZIL-310 truck. A freon AR-4 was installed in it - this is a refrigeration unit driven by another, but already a carburetor engine. The machine can carry loads weighing up to 2.5 tons and up to 1.1 tons when loaded with meat (all 10 hooks are occupied), and the body volume is 10 cubic meters.A newcomer to auto production, the Lutsk Automobile Plant, which mastered the production of civilian cars in 1966 (cargo-passenger ZAZ-969V, which became the first Soviet entrepreneurial models), took up serial production. In February of next year, the assembly line has already started to work.1991 - the plant takes another important step - the creation of the LuAZ-1302, which later became the basis for the production of a number of interesting models of Lutsk trucks. The engine from "Zaporozhets" is replaced by one taken from "Tavria" with liquid cooling, 52 hp. capacity and 1091 cubic meters. see working volume. And in 1992 g.the world got acquainted with the all-wheel drive airborne LuAZ-13021, the PN of which is 550 kg (a pair of adults + 400 additional kilograms).In 1996 the plant became open joint-stock company "LuAZ". Two years later, production fell sharply in terms of indicators, and the company itself began to rapidly lose its investors. Two more later, 81% of the plant's shares were bought by Ukrprominvest, after which the production assets were subject to renovation, and the manufactured models were to be modernized. Also, new vehicles began to be mastered.Do-it-yourself Luaz repair
LUAZ-969M vehicle
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You can find a lot of useful information here. You came to us in search of a video on Do-it-yourself Luaz 969m car repair.

how to assemble the front axle correctly, how to lift the torsion bar correctly, how to put the axle shaft correctly.

In these videos I will tell you about the repair of suspension units, a radical alteration of the front axle, the installation of a column.

I am trying to describe the design of the transmission:

the description of the steering column thrust was installed coaxially, centered with the swingarm of the front suspension. That wobbling "eliminates" the tractor on bumps.