DIY 2181 gearbox repair

In detail: do-it-yourself 2181 gearbox repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Price tag: 4,000 ₽ Mileage 105,000 km

How do you like the factory oil in the box?

100,000 mileage left. In winter, it started up with auto start. Later it turned out that the clutch release was thundering and not the bearings. Synchronization of the second transmission is live.
Norm the butter was

I found reviews that oil is not oil, but some kind of slurry from the factory, so I ask.

May be. From the factory I noticed only shit pads and pistons

Maybe, but there is no noise, so the oil is doing its job) There is an idea to replace it after running, along with the engine oil.
What's wrong with the pistons and pads?

Change the pads immediately. Brake discs become waves for 20t km.
The pistons on the 116 engine (8kl 87hp) bend the valve and they themselves are shit

And what pads were from the factory, do not remember?)
Yes, they are bent, but do not climb into a new engine for replacement) Are the pistons made poorly?

If I knew right away I would have climbed. I don't remember the pads. I put nippon on. 120 brake discs are still running)))

Got it, thanks for the information and good luck on the road!)

105 thousand run and only on this run the bearings buzzed. no howling no crunching

Putting no problem. The question is why

Looking forward to part 2

Throw out nafig these syncs, put the old model so that you can not open the box again. These syncs can fly at any time. I have a mileage of 35 thousand and they already went and wait for the code to be closed to change the release at the same time. And tell me what year the car is and the second question is what shafts standing priorrovskie or 2110 put those and those. I want to throw out the synchromes and put the old model, but I don’t know which shafts are worth. I want to buy 1 and 2 gears in advance so that I can not go shopping later. We have a Tsecna 1 and 2 gears in the collection of 2700 rubles

Video (click to play).

these syncs are 2 times better than the old model. We left 105 thousand run and how much still departs. Old-style synchros very rarely live more than 50 thousand run.
Machine 13 years old hollow shafts xs whose

These syncs are defective. If the old model is completely brass, but then the brass spraying on metal is stupid, and when this spraying erases everything and the switching will be very painful. as with me with peregazovkoy that 1 that 2 gear. Or they turn on shrustom. and these synchromes are afraid of overheating, you will skid somewhere and they will end up turning blue. look in the net there there is a video about these syncs to overheat them. Just once again you have to disassemble the korobas because of these little things on these syncs, a lot of people have already burned out and remade them from a tarred sample.

Why then did they leave 105 thousand for me and work without problems?

I don’t know. A lot of someone and 2000 flew from someone to 8000 under warranty changed from someone under 30,000 kilometers like mine. maybe just lucky. Look here, type in the search about syncs and see the statistics

I always rely only on my own experience or the experience of people I trust. so we'll wait and see) how much it still leaves)

The VAZ 2181 gearbox, it is also often called the cable gearbox, or according to the car model - VAZ 2190, 2192. In general, there are several modifications of this cable gearbox, for example, the VAZ 2180 gearbox, it is installed on Prior 2. But they are very similar in repair, since the differences are minimal ... A Priorov secondary shaft (21120) is installed on the VAZ 2180. For repairs, you will need almost the same tools as for a regular front-wheel drive car box. So, let's proceed to disassembly, first of all, remove the release bearing guide, for this you need an 8 torch head, unscrew three bolts 1 securing the guide to it. Also, immediately unscrew the crankcase bolt 2 so as not to turn the box over again later:

Then we remove the gear selection mechanism, for this we unscrew three bolts 1, and unscrew the retainer 2.We pry it with a screwdriver to tear off the sealant and pull it up. Of course, you can pull it out without unscrewing the retainer 2, but during installation it will interfere, therefore it is better to unscrew it. Remove the cable bracket 3 by unscrewing two bolts:

Now we unscrew bolt 1, gearbox housing:

Turning the box over, unscrew the six bolts of the cover and remove it by prying it with a screwdriver by the ebb to tear it off the crankcase:

Having torn off the cover, I unscrewed the two shaft nuts with a nutrunner at once. If you unscrew without a nutrunner, then you need to fix the shafts from turning, for this, turn on some kind of gear through the hole from the removed selection mechanism, then knock out the spring pin from the fifth gear fork with a punch of a suitable diameter and lower the fork down, thereby engaging the 5th gear. The drift should be 4-4.5 mm in diameter.

Prying off with screwdrivers, remove the fifth gear together with the hub and clutch. At the same time, try to prevent the coupling from flying off the hub, otherwise springs and balls will fly apart. If the hub is very tight, you will have to remove it with a puller. The fifth gear on this checkpoint is the most common, as on all other boxes. The screws of the thrust plate are unscrewed with an impact screwdriver, or with a wrench:

Having removed the thrust plate, it is necessary to remove the bearing circlips. To do this, we turn the rings so that the incision is located as in the photo and with pliers for shooting rings, using a screwdriver to remove them:

Unscrew the reverse gear locking bolt:

Then we remove the gearbox housing by prying it with screwdrivers to tear off the sealant. Moreover, if the bearings are a little tight, we slightly tap on the outer races so that they come out of the crankcase. Having removed the crankcase, unscrew the two bolts of the reverse fork:

We remove the forks assembled with the fifth gear stem by pulling the stem towards ourselves and up:

We take out the stem up, then we take out the forks of the 1st and 2nd and 3rd gears:

We take out the reverse gear:

Then just take out the shafts and differential. As you can see, this box was operated on a mixture of water and oil, where the water came from is not clear:

This gearbox has a conventional ten-point secondary shaft, in the corresponding section you can see how to disassemble it. But the gears are slightly different from the decimal ones. On the gears of the first and second gears, the gear rim is smaller, the hub and coupling of the 1-2 gears are also different. Gears of 3-4 gears also differ from tenths, they have a hub of a slightly larger diameter (in the place where it comes into contact with the gear). Therefore, the tenth gears can only be installed on this shaft as an assembly with hubs.

If you have an urgent need to repair your 2181 gearbox and there is no way to go to a specialized auto repair shop, then you can try to make the repair yourself.

Removing the gearbox on a Grant is a rather laborious process, so you cannot do without an assistant.

Before starting work, place your Granta on a two-post lift and brake with the parking brake. Prepare a set of tools and get to work according to the illustrated instructions below.

Sequence of work

Now let's move on to work under the underbody of the car. To do this, raise it to a height convenient for work from below.

Unscrew eleven mounting bolts (1) and two bolts (4) with toothed washers and remove the left and middle engine mudguards. To do this, you will need 8, 10 replacement sockets, an extension and a ratchet wrench.

Disconnect the lower part of the clutch cable from the gearbox.
To do this, we remove the cable tip (1) from the groove (3) of the clutch release fork and, by unscrewing the leash (2) from the cable tip, we remove the cable from the guide sleeve of the bracket (4).

Remove the bracket (4) from the left engine support (6) by unscrewing the two fastening bolts (5) using a 13 ”replaceable head and an extension with a wrench.

By car with 8-cl. engine:

Unscrew the two M8 nuts securing the bracket for the water pump inlet pipe.Install the service eye for engine lifting (2111-1001074-10) on the inlet pipe bracket fixing pin. Install the spring washer and screw on the M8 nut.
Next, install the traverse (67.7820-9549) (1) on the gutters for hanging the engine, hook the hook of the traverse to the eye (2) and hang out the engine.

By car with 16-cl. engine:

Disconnect the ignition harness connector (1) and the injector harness connector (2). Disconnect connectors from coolant temperature sensor (5) and oil pressure (7). Disconnect the ground wire (4) from the thermostat housing by unscrewing the nut (3).

After that it is necessary to drain the coolant.

By car with 16-cl. engine:

Loosen the clamps and disconnect the radiator supply hose (4) and the heater supply hose (2) from the thermostat (1). Now you can remove the thermostat itself by unscrewing the 2 fastening nuts (3).

By car with 16-cl. engine:

Unscrew the thermostat mounting stud by installing in its place the eye (2) for lifting the engine and secure with the bolt (3).

Place the yoke (1) on the gutters of the engine compartment to support the engine and hook the yoke on the yoke and hang the engine.

Next, we lower the rear of the gearbox and remove the bracket with the left support assembly.
Carefully move the gearbox to the left and remove the input shaft from the splines of the clutch disc. When removing and installing the gearbox, it is not allowed to rest the input shaft on the clutch pressure spring petals to prevent damage to the latter.

Next, we remove the transmission rack from under the car and remove the gearbox from it.

Installing the gearbox back to the vehicle is carried out in the reverse order according to the same removal instructions. Remember to lubricate the bolts and nuts before installing to prevent them from sticking.

The developments of AVTOVAZ do not stand still, and in 2013 the company's management, together with the design department, decided to switch to a new type of transmission with a cable drive. These gearboxes are installed on Lada Granta and Kalina 2 cars.

Unlike the conventional gearbox, the cable-operated gearbox has received some improvements and upgrades.

VAZ-2181 gearbox with cable drive

In order to understand how everything works, let's compare the standard gearbox with the VAZ-2180 marking and the new VAZ-2181:

To reduce the vibration emitted by the traction gearbox, cables from the manufacturer Atsumitec were installed.
To reduce the effort for shifting 1st and 2nd gear, the manufacturer installed multi-cone synchronizers.
The size of the clutch has increased to 215 mm.
Due to the change in the transmission design, the starter had to be positioned along the engine, and not the gearbox.
To facilitate gear shifting, it was necessary to reduce the bevel angle of the synchronizer teeth from 125 degrees to 100.
To eliminate the oil leak, the designers moved the gear selection mechanism to the top. But, this nuance gave impetus to the development of a new switching scheme and design changes.
The volume of the lubricant to be poured has decreased from 3.3 liters to 2.2 liters.
A selector plate has been installed, which allows for clearer gear shifting.
The transition from mineral oil to semi-synthetic oil has been completed.
In order not to accidentally engage the reverse gear, a special lock was developed.

The main elements and components that go into the device of the new gearbox can be seen in the figures below:

Gearbox diagram and decoding of its main elements

main gear drive gear;
secondary shaft;
input shaft;
fifth gear inclusion fork;
fork for engaging third and fourth gears;
reversing light switch;
clutch housing;
gear shifting mechanism;
central locking device.

The device of the VAZ-2181 box synchronizers

1 - gear wheel of the first transfer; 2 - intermediate rings; 3 - blocking ring; 4 - synchronizer clutch; 5 - hub of the synchronizer coupling; 6 - retainer; 7 - a gear wheel of the second transfer.

1 - gear selection levers; 2 - pin of the selector lattice; 3 - selector lattice; 4 - reverse gear blocking mechanism; 5 - central three-dimensional plate.

Full view of the gearbox with a cable drive

Thus, the manufacturer decided to improve and modernize the gearbox, which was not reliable and had a lot of problems. Thanks to a new and improved system, vibration in the body and gearshift knob has been reduced. The transmissions will turn on, they started more clearly, and huge backlashes disappeared.

As you know, gearbox analogs are rarely produced, and even more so for domestic cars.

Therefore, there is one catalog number for the gearbox with a cable drive Lada Granta - 21810-1700012-00.

Dismantling the gearbox with a cable drive Lada Granta will require a lot of tools. The main one is a set of keys and heads of different sizes.

So, let's proceed to disassembling the gearbox:

First of all, as in any repair, we clean the part from dirt.
We unscrew the clutch housing mounting studs.

We unscrew the plug of the fork retainer for engaging the reverse gear

We take out the retainer spring from the crankcase hole

Using a magnet, remove the retainer ball

We unscrew the nut securing the rear cover of the gearbox housing

We unscrew the bolt securing the clutch release cable bracket

We unscrew the nuts securing the rear crankcase cover

By tapping with a plastic-tipped hammer or a conventional hammer through a soft metal mandrel on the lid lugs

Hit the fork through a soft metal drift

Turn off the shaft nuts with a 32-inch head with a powerful knob

Prying the driven gear of the V gear with a screwdriver, remove the assembly

Remove the synchronizer plate

Dismantling the gear, after prying it

Unscrew the plate mount

We unscrew the three plugs of the clamps of the gear shift forks

We extract the balls of the retainers with a magnetic screwdriver

Insert a screwdriver to raise the crankcase

Using a screwdriver, remove the stem lever from engagement in the gearshift mechanism

Dismantle the reverse gear

We unscrew the three bolts securing the gearshift mechanism

Removing the gearshift mechanism

Disassembly of the gear selector

We extrude the outer ring

Removing the outer ring

Now the cable-driven Lada Granta gearbox is completely disassembled, and you can determine the parts that need to be replaced.

Often, transmission malfunctions have a characteristic sound that determines the breakdown area, but there are other factors that serve as signals for unit repair. Consider the main malfunctions and how to fix them:

Adjustment of the cable drive of the Lada Granta gearbox is absent according to the technical documentation of the manufacturer. The only adjustment option, which the motorists themselves came up with, is that you can tighten the cable a little if they sagged or succumbed to wear. Another adjustment option is the "popular" pushing back of the cable attachment, but this method is not always effective.

Cables for replacing the gearbox drive VAZ-2181

Based on the above, it is recommended that if the cables fail, replace them. A scheduled technical replacement should be performed once per 100,000 km of run. If there is a guarantee for the car, then it is not recommended to be smart and contact a car service for troubleshooting.

Consider the interesting facts that we managed to learn about the new Lada Granta gearbox:

The VAZ-2181 gearbox will not be installed on the Priora, since the designers considered that it would not be cost-effective to redo the entire structure of the power units.
The cost of Lada Granta and Kalina 2 increased by 5000-7000 rubles. with the introduction of a new gearbox in the car.
According to the reviews of car owners, the first copies of the gearbox with a cable drive were not entirely successful and had a lot of flaws: vibration became audible after 70-80 thousand mileage, the howling of the gearbox, increased wear of parts, etc.Based on this, the manufacturer made adjustments to the design and improved the characteristics, but many car owners had a negative impression of the VAZ-2181 cable-operated gearbox.
The AVTOVAZ plant continues the development and modernization of a new gearbox, which will become the second generation of cable transmissions. It is planned to install it on the 2nd generation Lada Granta, which is now under development. The designers promise to take into account the experience gained during the development of the first generation and not allow such an oversight for the second time.

It becomes clear that the Lada Granta cable-driven gearbox has become better than its younger brother with rigid rods. Component upgrades have improved performance, reduced vibration and improved gear shifting performance. At the same time, many car owners still express dissatisfaction with increased wear and tear and frequent breakdowns, although the plant promises to correct this shortcoming.

This article is a review of Lada Granta gearboxes, the features of which are interesting to know for every potential buyer of the car.

We will conduct a brief description of the transmission, a list of the main characteristic problems of all types of gearboxes installed on this vehicle.

The passenger car Lada Granta has been serially produced since March 2011, this model replaced the popular Samara series.

Initially, the car was equipped with only a VAZ-2180 mechanical five-speed transmission, later they began to install an automatic and robotic gearbox on the car.

The cable manual transmission Lada Granta with the index 2181 has been produced since October 2012, later it was modernized, since the car owners had many quality claims to it.

Each type of transmission installed on a Togliatti-made car has its own characteristic differences and weaknesses, the so-called "diseases".

The manual transmission installed on the Granta has a long history, in fact, it is the same 5-speed. gearbox, as the VAZ-2108, but has repeatedly been subject to serious modernization.

From the beginning of Grants production, the car was equipped with a check point model 2180, with a shift rod, with the location of the gear selection mechanism at the bottom (inside the case), the same transmission was installed on the first generation Lada Kalina.

The modernized gearbox with the index 2181 appeared in 2012, and in a new transmission:

the gear shift rod was replaced with two cables;
the speed selection mechanism was moved upward, it began to be outside the case, not in oil, as it was before;
a multi-cone synchronizer appeared in gear 1-2;
the clutch housing has been changed, only 2.2 liters of transmission oil is now poured into the box itself, and not 3.3 liters, as before.

The use of ropes instead of a rod reduced the level of vibration in the body, and in general, the speeds began to switch more clearly, without "searching" for the desired gear.

But this transmission had one characteristic problem - the checkpoint 2181 of the first issues emitted a noticeable howl when the car was moving.

There were many complaints from car owners, so AvtoVAZ decided to modify the unit by improving the technology for processing gears and shafts, and in the summer of 2014 Grant began to leave the assembly line of the car plant with a quieter manual transmission.

In general, the modified transmission has become better, but still some typical defects are inherent in it:

the second gear can turn on with a crunch, this problem was observed even on the VAZ-2108-09;
the switching is not clear enough, although a cable drive is installed;
despite the revision, the howl remained at the second and third speeds.

Also, when the car accelerates, vibration, bouncing of the gearshift lever in 3rd gear can be observed.

"Automatic" on the car of the Togliatti Automobile Plant was installed from July 2012 to March 2015 - this is 4-st. Automatic transmission from the Japanese manufacturer Jatco.

Grant's four-speed automatic transmission - JF414E models, classic type, with a torque converter, similar units are equipped with Nissan, Mitsubishi, Suzuki cars.

This type of transmission on Granta is paired only with a 98-horsepower VAZ-21126 power unit.

The gearbox is highly reliable, with careful operation and timely maintenance it can run up to 200 thousand km.

It is necessary to replace the transmission fluid every 60 thousand km; the manufacturer recommends filling in the "Nissan" branded ATF EJ-1 or Matic-S oil.

The Lada Granta automatic machine does not cause great complaints in terms of quality, if the transmissions need repair, it is mainly the fault of the driver:

as a result of slipping, the clutches burn out;
after overheating, gaskets and seals begin to leak;
when hitting an obstacle, the automatic transmission pallet breaks through, and then a thorough repair is definitely required.

Car owners have more complaints about the operational characteristics of the "automatic" - increased fuel consumption, sluggish acceleration of the car, twitching during gear changes during dynamic driving.

The box-robot has replaced the 4-speed "automatic" Jatco, the manual transmission has been put on the Grant since the beginning of spring 2015.

The mechanical part of the new AMT 2182 is based on the box 2180, instead of cables, as well as standard for the "mechanics" of the pedal and clutch unit, an electromechanical gearbox drive (mechatronic) of the German company ZF is installed here.

The robotic box is only paired with a VAZ-21127 106 hp engine. sec., the most powerful power unit installed on the Lada Granta.

The manual transmission can work not only in automatic, but also in manual mode, there are five gears in the box.

The car with AMT 2182 has become more economical than with the “automatic”, the dynamics have also improved, the consumption of gasoline has decreased.

Typical problems of a robotic checkpoint.

The robot box is based on the 2180 transmission, so it does not have such a strong hum as the 2181 manual transmission.

Nevertheless, in first and second gear, slight howling is observed, although after running in on a new car, the noise may disappear.

Grant's gearbox can behave inadequately - when driving in first gear and a sharp press on the accelerator pedal, the second speed does not always turn on, a "slip" occurs.

A characteristic drawback of the manual transmission is jerks and jerks when switching speeds, if the movement is dynamic, with a quiet ride this unpleasant phenomenon is not observed.

But you can use the manual mode, and then the manual transmission practically becomes "mechanics".

All types of gearboxes on the Lada have their own advantages and disadvantages, but even the Grant gearbox of domestic assembly does not give car owners very big problems.

If you do not take into account the small noise of the mechanical part of the transmission, then we can say that the "robot" and "mechanics" are quite reliable, without pronounced characteristic "diseases".

For lovers of leisurely driving and comfortable driving, the "automatic" is best suited, here only the only drawback is the increased consumption of gasoline.

Although the manual gearbox howls, the noise is not particularly reflected on its resource; under normal operation, it can travel about two hundred thousand kilometers without problems.

In a robotic box, electronics sometimes malfunction, and you need to get used to the specifics of driving a car with AMT.

With which transmission to choose a Lada Grant, a personal matter of every motorist, here a lot depends on the preferences of the driver himself.

The 5-speed manual transmission VAZ 2181 has been produced since October 2012 in two versions: 21810 and 21816, which differ from each other in the design of the counterweight. A new cable-driven box is installed on almost all Lada-Datsun models.The modern family also includes 5-speed manual transmissions: 2180, 21807 and 21809. Image - DIY 2181 gearbox repair

This transmission is a deep modernization of the VAZ 2170 gearbox. In fact, only the gear part, that is, the shafts and gears, remained from the old gearbox, and everything else is new or greatly improved.

Finally, we got rid of the rigid thrust, now the control mechanism has a cable drive. This allowed us to get rid of unnecessary noise and vibrations.
The use of a multi-cone synchronizer for the first and second gears has significantly increased the comfort of driving in urban conditions.
The shifting mechanism has moved from the bottom up, due to which the volume of the necessary transmission fluid has decreased by a third, and the problem with the difficult movement of the lever due to thickening of the oil in frost has also disappeared.

The new transmission is praised for its seriously improved shifting clarity, reduced vibration, protection against accidental reverse gears, ease of lever travel, and increased reliability.

However, as always, there were some problems. First of all, drivers scold this manual transmission for a terrible howl, especially during engine braking.

Multi-cone synchronizers wear out quickly and a characteristic crunch occurs when changing from the first to the second speed.

Some programs, especially the second, may simply disappear at some point. This is due to the development on the gears.

Oil leaks with a change in the design of the crankcase did not go away. Owners who struggle with the howling of the gearbox by increasing the pressure of the transmission fluid add to the problems.

The rattle of the lever in third gear appears due to wear on the control cable. And vibrations during intensive acceleration are a trademark disadvantage of this transmission.

The low quality of manufacturing of a number of parts led to the failure of the entire unit even at low runs, the boxes were simply changed entirely under warranty. However, in defense of the domestic manufacturer, it should be said that the quality of products is gradually increasing and complaints are becoming less and less.

You can buy a used box at many domestic auto dismantlers for about 10 thousand rubles, but it is unlikely that anyone guarantees you anything more than just the operability of the unit. Therefore, the owners of Lada and Datsun cars most often purchase a new manual transmission. Its price from the factory is 32,500 rubles.

Repair of the Lada Granta cable manual transmission in two parts.

The transmission of torque to the gearbox occurs directly by the meshing of these very gears. The gears are located on the shafts - there are two-shaft and three-shaft boxes. The former have a primary (driving) and a secondary (driven) shaft, while the latter transmit torque from the primary shaft to the secondary through an additional intermediate shaft. The gears located on the shafts are in constant engagement, but all pairs, except for the one that is selected as working at a particular moment, rotate freely. To select a pair - that is, to engage a particular gear by rigidly connecting the gear and the driven shaft - they came up with a special clutch and called it a synchronizer - we will talk more about the design and problems of synchronizers in the next article. By wielding the gear lever from the passenger compartment, you connect one or another gear to the driven shaft through the engagement forks and synchronizers and finally transfer the torque from the engine to it (and therefore to the wheels).

When we talk about a new (or not very new) car, the gearbox is often left out of the way. If you do not take into account the "particularly distinguished" checkpoints, which will be discussed below, most often simply.

In general, anything can fail and wear out in the gearbox - and fixing it, as we know, can be very expensive and difficult. At the same time, the manual transmission is much more "secretive" than the engine: sometimes it is possible to find out about a serious breakdown only after opening it. Therefore, when driving and changing gears, you must always listen to all sounds coming from the gearbox - and visit the service when you first fear.

Having excluded the clutch from the diagnostic list (we will also tell you about it separately), you can hear only crunching or knocking out of the box, but you can see only the lever that randomly returns from the operating position to neutral (in other words, "the transmission flies out"). The latter is usually associated with loose latches or problems with the synchronizer. In the first case, it is the wear of the synchronizers, excessive wear of the shaft bearings or the breakage of the gear teeth. And it’s about gears that we’ll talk about today.

They have several potential problems: excessive tooth wear, chipped or broken teeth, wear on the needle bearings of the gears, or wear on the circlips that can move the gear bushings. In general, chipping or damage to teeth is a rather rare occurrence, since they are calculated with a large margin of safety. But it also happens that the box is simply overloaded, while the clutch does not slip - and the teeth do not hold up.

This can also happen when the gearbox overheats - for example, due to an incorrectly selected transmission oil or due to its low level. Particular attention should be paid to the MCP in winter, in severe frosts. The oil in the crankcase turns into something resembling honey, so you shouldn't start moving right away - it is advisable to stand a little and wait until the oil warms up at least a little. You can feel and understand this by more easily moving the lever from position to position.

A visual aid Especially for this material, PacPac provided us with a FischerTechnik constructor, schematically showing the principle of operation of a manual transmission, and we even.

Returning to the MCP diagnostics, let us recall the sounds coming from it. The knocking or crunching sound can be either constant or occurring only when shifting gears. In the first case, this most likely means a global disaster - the gears are destroyed or the shaft bearings have come to an end. This is rare, but it happens. If the knock is heard only when switching, then there is a possibility that this is either wear of the synchronizers, or the notorious shaft bearings.

You can try to figure it out on the move by switching the gearbox to the next gear with double clutch release: by squeezing the clutch, move the lever to neutral, release the clutch, squeeze it again and, turning on the next gear, release it. If during this "dance" the knocking disappears, then there is a high probability of excessive wear of the synchronizer.

So, today on the "operating table" is a manual transmission 02J manufactured by the Volkswagen concern, which was installed on the Skoda Octavia. According to the owner, the only problem was some kind of knocking when driving in first gear. The knock pestered me, so the box was brought in for "treatment."

The box was brought separately from the car, our master did not drain the oil, and therefore did not see its condition. Having prepared the tools and, to the best of our strength and capabilities, having cleaned the MCP housing from dirt, dust and other foreign objects, we proceeded to disassembly.

Having unscrewed the mounting bolts, we removed the rear cover of the gearbox housing, under which the gears of the 5th gear are located. At the same time, the foreman gave the first assessment of the oil condition. This assessment was expressed in a wrinkled grimace, which gave the owner the first reason to get excited.

Dear customers, in order to avoid mistakes when sending the VAZ 2181 gear selection mechanism (manual transmission) of a new sample assembly, in the "Comment" line indicate the model of your car, the year of manufacture, the gear selection mechanism - cable or rocker.

Any car of the VAZ family has a gearshift mechanism, which consists of a gearshift lever, a gear selection mechanism (drive) and a gearbox.

Gearbox 2181 cable - a two-shaft, five-speed gearbox, which is combined by a differential and the main gear, is activated through a cable drive - by a lever located in

1 - leading gear wheel of the main transfer; 2 - secondary shaft; 3 - primary shaft; 4 - fifth gear inclusion plug; 5 - plug for engaging the third and fourth gears; 6 - switch for reversing lights; 7 - clutch housing; 8 - gear shifting mechanism; 9 - central locking device.

The cable drive is the primary gear selection mechanism. From the name it is not difficult to guess that the choice of gear is due to the cable.

The gearbox is designed to change the torque developed by the engine in order to obtain various tractive forces on the driving wheels when starting off, accelerating, driving and overcoming road obstacles; changes in the speed and direction of the vehicle; the possibility of driving the car at low speeds that cannot be provided by the engine, and disconnecting the engine from the transmission for a long time in the parking lot or when the car is moving by inertia (coasting).

The gear selection mechanism is used to change gears in the box and is controlled by the driver using a lever from the car.

1 - gear selection levers; 2 - pin of the selector lattice; 3 - selector lattice; 4 - reverse gear blocking mechanism; 5 - central three-dimensional plate.

Cable drive advantages:

- Less vibrations on the gearshift knob;

- the reverse gear is opposite the 5th (the tuners will no longer be able to stick in the 6th gear, and they do not undertake to put a lock in the new box yet).

Note: Overall, the cable-driven box has proven itself extremely well.

For those who want to change the rocker to a cable drive, we will say that you will not get off with one drive. You will need the following parts list:

- Transmission assembly 21810-1700012;

- Gear lever assembly 21901-1703010;

- Gearbox drive cables 21901-1703113;

- Clutch cable 21901-1602210;

- Release bearing 21810-1601180;

- Bracket for the left engine support 21900-1001231;

- Supply pipe of the water pump 21900-1303055;

- Wires and reverse sensor.

The oil level in the gearbox (gearbox) of the VAZ 2181 must always be “at the level”. After all, even a slight drop can ruin the fifth gear. The gearbox is not an engine, the oil in it does not "burn" and disappears only due to leaks in the seals.

The volume of oil poured into the VAZ-2181 box is one third less than that of the VAZ 2170. Semi-synthetic oil, which retains its working properties down to -42 ºС. Moreover, this applies to both the new box and the old one (it is still being installed on the cheap Standard modifications). Lubrication does not require replacement for the entire service life of the car, that is, within five years or 200 thousand km of run.

Gearbox repair is necessary if the following symptoms occur: noise when shifting gears, difficult engaging and disengaging gears, spontaneous engagement of gears, transmission oil leakage.

In some cases, only the addition of oil can be dispensed with. If the signs of malfunction have not disappeared, it is necessary to proceed to the gearbox repair. The first option is to contact a service station. Repair of the checkpoint 2181 is quite possible in your garage.

Other articles of goods and their analogs in catalogs: 21800170201200.

VAZ 2170 (Lada Priora), VAZ 2190 (Lada Granta), VAZ 2194 (Lada Kalina 2) (since 2014)

Any breakdown is not the end of the world, but a completely solvable problem!

How to independently replace the VAZ 2181 gear selection mechanism (manual transmission) of a new model on a VAZ family car with a cable gear drive.

With the Internet - Shop AvtoAzbuka repair costs will be minimal.

Just COMPARE and BE SURE.

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