In detail: DIY repair of the t4 gearbox from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Repairing T4 manual transmissions requires a number of special pullers and tools. Before starting repairs, we recommend that you weigh your strengths and skills against the volume of work, as well as check the availability of appropriate spare parts. Below are some guidelines for a successful repair. - In case of wear or breakage, gear wheels are recommended to be replaced in pairs, otherwise the service life of new parts will be significantly reduced. - Be sure to indicate the box code when purchasing. Despite the fact that outwardly the parts of all VW boxes are very similar, they differ in the number of teeth, splines (gear wheels, splined shafts), dimensions (which cannot always be determined at a glance), hardness, etc. - since Over the nine years of production of the Transporter T4 model, more than 27 modifications of five-speed gearboxes have been applied, it is impossible to describe in detail the repair of each modification within the framework of this manual. In fig. 353 shows the structure of the gearbox housing. O-rings pos. 9, 16, as well as the input shaft oil seal pos. 8 are subject to mandatory replacement, replacement of the gasket pos. 11 - recommended depending on its condition.
The adjusting rings (7, see Fig. 354) have a thickness of 0.65 to 1.27 mm in 0.25 mm increments, the rings (10) have a thickness of 0.65 to 1.40 in the same increment.
The housing (14) is supplied complete with the bearing (13). In fig. 355 shows the structure of the gearshift mechanism of a five-speed manual transmission. Lever (10) shifts 1/2 gear, (14) - 3/4 gear, lever (30) engages 5th gear, and reverse gear is engaged by a mechanism consisting of parts (21) and (22). Spring (23) provides some resistance when engaging reverse gear.
Models released after 1996 are distinguished by the absence of a smooth bushing, which was located in the lid in previous models (25).
The checkpoint is the only unit on the Omega, inside which I have not yet climbed. And it so happened that this is the first unit of the Conveyor, which I had to climb into. Actually, this did not come as a surprise to me. It became an unpleasant incident. I knew it was going to happen, but I didn't know when. And I really didn't want to go into the box to prevent it.
It all started with buying a car. At the dealer's site, she behaved perfectly, there were no complaints. But when he drove her home. A hundred kilometers later, an ever-increasing roar was heard from the box, the gears began to be switched on very hard. I was already starting to figure out options for how to take the car in tow to reach home, but a friend we drove with persuaded me to call the dealer and return the car to him to fix the problem. With a creak, but the car was taken. They promised to fix everything. The next day, the dealer already phoned that everything was in order, everything was working. When I was picking up the car, he said that there was almost no oil in the box, and “I had to replace this one. hammasratas (gear) ”. The car really behaved remarkably, the gears shifted perfectly, only on the fifth from the very first kilometers a thin whistle appeared. The car was needed all the time, I didn't want to bother with problems at all, and I diligently drove away from myself the idea that gears should actually be replaced in pairs.
The transporter drove, whistled. After 3-4 thousand kilometers, I suddenly noticed a strip of oil flowing to the ground along the inner surface of the right front wheel. I discovered an amazing thing: oil flows from the boot of the inner CV joint through a small neat hole, flows down the drive shaft to the outer CV joint, to the steering knuckle, to the wheel disk and then to the ground. Where did the liquid oil come from in the CV joint? After all, there should only be a grease that does not flow! However, this time too, despite the distinct "transmission" smell of oil, I closed my eyes to it. I just wrapped the boot with electrical tape and secured it with an additional clamp. No more oil flowed out of it.
After 8000 km, the whistle of the fifth gear began to gradually turn into a crackling sound - the “jet plane” was reborn into a “tractor”. But another thousand kilometers passed before. One fine evening, when the fifth gear was turned on, the Transporter jerked, made a loud crunch, and then continued coasting, rattling and clanking. They sailed. What to do? I tried lower gears - they are included. Gently turned around and in first gear "crawled" back to the house, fortunately drove off not far, a couple of kilometers. That's it, now you can't get out. The box is in the bulkhead.
I built such a mega-structure from my universal puller in order to pull out the left wheel drive shaft after (.) I heroically pulled off the “stocking”. Note that the lower half of the gearbox has been removed and that all gears and shift forks remain in the upper half. They are not released by the gear wheel of the main drive, and it, in turn, is held by the flange of the drive of the right wheel.
Finally I pull out the right flange. But again he made a difference with a puller. Everything could be done much easier.
Below is the correct sequence for disassembling the box.
So, we have disassembled the box in detail, washed and cleaned from all sides as much as possible, and even better. Remains of sealant are carefully cleaned off from all parts. The magnet inside the box body is free from dirt and adhering metal shavings. If you have a compressor, it is a good idea to blow out all bottlenecks. If not, flushing the slots and small bearings with a carburetor cleaning fluid in an aerosol can helps a lot. Old oil seals were taken out of their nests and discarded, new ones were purchased. If any bolts are damaged, buy new ones. We also need a transmission sealant and a surface degreaser (acetone).
If the checkpoint was disassembled without problems, then the assembly of its problems will not cause either. However, I would not write the phrase “assembly is the procedure opposite to disassembly”.
The first question that arose before me was how to roll a Transporter onto the overpass with an inoperative engine. I solved this problem with the help of Omega, two towing ropes and a manual winch. For safety reasons, Omega put spacers between the overpass and the rear bumper - so that the overpass does not go forward during the ascent. For this, I hooked the second towing cable not to the front towing eye, but to the Transporter's hitch. In this position, the cable does not press the nose of the car against the overpass, but, on the contrary, even slightly relieves the front axle.
For some reason, looking at the work ahead, you imagine that everything can be done quickly enough. This is this way, this is this way, no problem. And when you take up the instrument. I dragged the transporter onto the overpass on Friday at 18:00 to install the box. He left it on his own only at 6:00 am on Saturday. The result of this night - four dead light bulbs in a carrier, hands smeared to the elbows with oil, mud and brake, and wild delight that I still defeated him!
Diik "10.12.08, 11:41 T4 repair of the box, 5th gear takes off
MAX 2 "10.12.08, 11:57 Re: box repair on vw t4
Gray-haired "12.21.08, 20:54 Re: box repair on vw t4
ignakov "12.21.08, 20:58 Re: box repair on vw t4
HolDeR "12.01.09, 09:48 Re: box repair on vw t4
nokep "12.01.09, 09:50 Re: box repair on vw t4
vlady, glory "02.21.09, 16:16 Re: box repair on vw t4
and where is this bolt of fastening of the mechanism? and can you create one without removing the box? and how to determine wear of gears by eye or by a device? I just started to fly 5th gear but rarely!
_Freeman_ "06.21.09, 20:45 Re: box repair on vw t4
One person decided to help a car service and drove a Volkswagen T-4 transporter without oil at the checkpoint.
Here's what came of it.
We drained the oil about 100g. those. there was oil starvation in the gearbox. After opening the box, we found the following damage:
The inner race of the tapered bearing of the input shaft was welded to the shaft from heating, the rollers (or what was left of them) jumped out of the separator and gathered in a heap (photo 1);
journal bearings of the differential satellites collapsed and crawled out (photo 2);
the plastic cage of the needle bearing of the fifth gear of the secondary shaft has melted (photo 3).
Fifth gears (drive and driven) turned blue.
In order not to change the expensive shaft, we clean the traces of the welded bearing with a diamond file (photo 4).
We press tapered bearings onto the Volkswagen Transporter gearbox shaft (photo 5.6).
We adjust the preload of tapered bearings by placing shims under the outer race of bearings (photo 7, 8, 9, 10).
You can check the tension by installing the shaft into the housing while tightening the connecting bolts of the box housing with a working torque.
We do the same steps for adjusting the bearings for the differential bearings. boxes wolkswagen (photo 11).
We assemble the secondary shaft by changing the roller bearings of the gears and the locking rings of the synchronizers. When selecting locking rings, pay attention to the fact that when the ring is seated on the gear cone, there must be a gap (at least 1.2 mm) between the ends of the ring and the gear (photo 12)
We install the shafts on one gearbox housing, pre-lubricating the bearings with oil (photo 13, 14).
We install the gear selection mechanisms and connect the two boxes of the box (photo 15,16,17).
Now we need to insert the supports for the forks for switching 1, 2, 3, 4 gears and bolt the gear selection mechanisms to the body (photo 18, 19, 20).
We stretch the connecting bolts of the gearbox housing and proceed to the assembly of the fifth gears. We change a pair of fifth gear drive gears to new ones, since the relatives were exposed to high temperatures (tarnishing colors came out on the metal surface). We fix the gears to the shafts using bolts (photo 21-26).
We install the gear selector rod and the lower rod support (photo 27, 28).
We put the open covers and the clutch fork - the box is ready for installation on the car (photo 29, 30).
Technical club Volkswagen Transporter T 4 T5 T6, we share our experience of repair, maintenance, how to remove the gearbox from T 4 2. 4 aav. Questions related to the gearbox, clutch and transmission: maintenance, diagnostics and repair of the gearbox.
Transmission repair Volkswagen transporter T - 4. One person decided to help a car service and took a ride without oil in the checkpoint on a Volkswagen transporter T - 4. That's what came of it.
Transmission. KPP types. Device, repair. Photo | Vw forum 8 october Annual Volkswagen T 4 maintenance operations that can be carried out independently: Engine.
Unscrew the electrical wiring from the pipeline. Check the thickness of the brake pads and the tread depth of the tires. Warning In this case, the anti-theft code is erased from the memory of the radio receiver. The number of the main gear can vary:
In general, I will try briefly. There were problems with the checkpoint, or rather there were extraneous noises at idle. We started to remove the checkpoint, I will say this, I removed boxes on cars with a more complicated design. In the T4 with a 2.4 AAV motor, not everything is so difficult. Rukazhopy already visited before me ... Photo och. Drove bought a clutch kit LUK! A couple of oil seals on the stocking, right-hand drive, and on the input shaft And set to work! Checkpoint laundered from dirt! Everything fell into place, on the crown of the tooth, the basket was centered.
By the way, without removing the right drive and the stocking with it, they could not remove the gearbox. Collected in the reverse order! There was a moment, they almost grumbled, they installed everything, began to put the clutch cable and the rod almost fell into the box and bit it back, as the spring on it pressed back outward. We are like surgeons over Thacher with a magnet! It will still rub in its place and there will be fire in general! I didn't pay for the work! A couple of photos with a dual-mass swing.
