DIY VAZ 2111 gearbox repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a VAZ 2111 gearbox from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

… Remove it together with the sealing gasket from the studs.

Pressing the gear selection rod all the way in, turn on the third gear or, pulling the rod all the way in, turn on the fourth.

… And take out the hub, springs, clips and crackers of the fifth gear synchronizer.

We insert two screwdrivers into the gap formed between the thrust plate and the driving gear of the fifth gear. Prying the gear wheel with screwdrivers, we press it.

Use an impact Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the four screws securing the thrust plate. The screws have special lock washers.

... and press the pinion bush and thrust washer.

Using the “13” head, unscrew thirteen nuts and one bolt securing the gearbox housing to the clutch housing.

Having inserted a screwdriver into the groove at the junction of the mating surfaces of the crankcases, carefully lift the crankcase crankcase ...

You can replace the hinge of the gear selector rod on the gearbox installed on the car (you do not need to remove the hinge from the rod unnecessarily, since the fastening bolt is installed on a special TB-1324 glue).

To replace the oil seal of the gear selector rod, we hook it with a thick wire hook and remove it from the bushing.

In the same way, we knock out the oil seal and the outer ring of the differential bearing from the gearbox housing.
We take out the adjusting ring.
We clamp the input shaft in a vice with soft jaws.

... and remove it from the front end of the shaft.

Insert a screwdriver into the gap between the inner ring of the front bearing and the end of the main drive pinion and squeeze the ring.

Insert two mounting blades into the resulting increased gap and press the inner ring of the bearing from the shaft.

Video (click to play).

Having grabbed the driven gear of the 1st gear with a three-legged puller, we press the drive gear of the main gear.

In the absence of a puller, we put stops under the gear and strike with a copper hammer at the end of the shaft.

Prying off the driven gear of the 2nd gear with two mounting blades, press the hub of the sliding sleeve of the synchronizer of the 1st – 2nd gears off the shaft.

Having grabbed the gear wheel of III gear with a three-armed puller, we press the hub of the sliding clutch of the synchronizer of III – IV gears from the shaft.

In the absence of a puller, we put stops under the gear and apply blows with a copper hammer to the end of the shaft.

Having inserted a chisel into the gap between the end face of the bearing inner ring and the differential box, we strike the chisel ...

... and press the bearing.

We carry out the assembly of the gearbox in the reverse order.

It is not as difficult to repair a checkpoint on a VAZ 2110 with your own hands as it might seem at first glance. You will have to arm yourself with a set of tools, the necessary new parts to replace old ones, a few photos and videos for clarity, as well as an operation and repair manual. Plus, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with our material, which will make complex manipulations much easier.

To begin with, it will not be superfluous to study a video about repairing a gearbox on a VAZ 2110 with your own hands. This is for clarity, so to speak.

The principle of the device is as follows:

To switch gears, the input shaft works in the box. It consists of a block of gears that are permanently meshed with the drive gears from 1 to 5 gears (driving the vehicle forward).
The second shaft is equipped with a main gear drive gear, on which synchronizers are also located. They are responsible for the forward movement of the driven gears. The oil sump and bearing are located in the same place.
The driven gear of the main drive is attached to the two-satellite differential "tens" through the flange of the box.
The actuator includes a shift knob, ball joints, select rod, rods, a gear selection mechanism and a direct gear change mechanism.
The task of jet thrust is to prevent the speed from flying out. Its ends are fixed to the support and the engine.

It is far from always necessary to remove it to establish the operation of the box. Although if it is envisaged to replace the gearbox bearings or other repair measures, a simple adjustment cannot be dispensed with. Image - DIY VAZ 2111 gearbox repair

Adjustment is required in several situations:

Recently, the main shaft bearings were replaced with a VAZ 2110 or another type of repair with the mandatory removal of the gearbox;
There is a constant departure of one of the speeds;
The gears switch tightly, badly, or they are knocked out directly while driving.

If you are faced with one of these situations, then adjustment will not be avoided. Although this is better than dismantling and full repair of the gearbox. The operation is performed as follows:

From the bottom of the car, find the nut and bolt that tighten the gearbox linkage clamp. It does not need to be completely removed, but simply loosened a little.
The grooves of the rod are slightly moved apart with a regular screwdriver, and also widen the gap in the clamp. This will make it easier for the rod to move to the speed selection rod. The stem must be set to neutral.
Remove the cover from the gear knob.
According to the template, set the lever - the template is installed in the window of the bracket for blocking the reverse gear. Next, the stop of the lever axis is inserted into the existing groove of the template. It needs to be pressed in the transverse direction, but not apply much force.
Now the axial play of the rod in the rear direction is adjusted, plus the axial play is adjusted by turning to the left.
The clamp is put in place, leaving a few millimeters of space to the end of the rod. The clamp is now properly tightened with the bolt.

If the adjustment did not give the desired result, you will have to work more carefully with the box. A common problem is knocking out gears responsible for 1 and 2 speeds. Image - DIY VAZ 2111 gearbox repair

When disassembling, make sure that each individual retainer is in good working order. The retainers are springs, of which there are a total of three. The first is the longest, it is responsible for 1 and 2 speeds. The second is medium in size, and his prerogative is 3 and 4 speeds. The third retainer is the smallest, and its “guardian” is the fifth gear.

The owners of the VAZ 2110 car note several characteristic faults in the gearboxes for this model. Someone does not turn on the reverse speed, others complain about the departure, and so on.Let's consider the most popular problems that the box of the domestic “ten” can boast of.

First speed problem. It can fly out or be difficult to turn on in a car. There are several reasons:

The synchronizer is out of order;
The retainer spring has a defect, it has burst;
The lever is loose, due to which the speeds switch spontaneously;
The stem is out of order or the fork is faulty, their obligatory replacement is required.

Second gear problem. She is often knocked out, or it is difficult to switch to her. There may also be several reasons for such a malfunction:

The gear teeth cling poorly to the gearshift clutch;
The tips of the teeth are worn out, worn out, because the speed is difficult to turn on. Over time, it will start to fly out. Therefore, repairs are required;
If the transmission knocks out when hitting bumps, then there is nothing good about it - the problem lies in the failing clutch.

Having started to repair the VAZ 2110 gearbox, after all the actions described above, it is required to disassemble the crankcase and the working mechanism. Getting started:

We unscrew the spring plugs that hold the gear rods. After the plugs are unscrewed, end balls will fall out of the holes. We do the same with the plug that holds the reverse gear. If the balls did not fall out of the holes, then you can get them using a magnetic screwdriver.
Next, we unscrew the bolts that secure the gearbox housing to the clutch housing. After the bolts have been loosened, you can use a screwdriver to detach the crankcases.
Next step. Unscrew the rod from the first and second gear forks.
We do the same with the third, fourth and fifth gears, respectively. To remove the rod, it must be removed along with the gear shift parts.
It is necessary to remove the axle from the reverse gear and, of course, the gear.
Next, get the differential and two shafts with gears. Unscrew the three bolts that secure the gear mechanism and remove it from the crankcase.
Remove the rear arm bolt and remove the stem.
If necessary, remove the bearings of the input and output shaft with a cage.

Dismantling of the VAZ 2110 gearbox is completed.

Let's take a look at the most common problems:

The problem concerns the first transmission rate. It turns on very hard, when shifting gears, an extraneous sound is emitted, the speed flies out while driving.

The reasons may be as follows:

The synchronizer could be damaged.
The retainer spring has burst or is defective.
The speeds can switch independently due to the weakening of the lever.
Stock or plug problem. We need to replace them.

The next problem concerns the second gear. Most often, motorists are faced with the fact that the second speed jumps out or there are difficulties when it is turned on.

The following reasons may lie behind this:

The gear teeth are worn out, as a result of which they do not adhere well to the gearshift clutch. In this case, it is imperative to repair the VAZ 2110 gearbox. In the future, this can serve as a transmission departure.
If the transmission is flying out exclusively when driving on bumps, then we can say with confidence that the cause of this is a problem with the clutch.

Very often, in order to fix the problem with the second speed, you just need to change the fixing spring. If, after replacing the spring, the speed continues to fly out, then you need to remove the gearbox and make a major overhaul.

The occurrence of extraneous noise in the gearbox may be due to bearings that have failed. In order to find out, you need to check the backlash of the roller bearings that are installed in the clutch housing, the rolling bearings located on the primary and secondary shafts.

You need to check the forks and gear rods very carefully. These parts tend to deteriorate very quickly. If there are any obvious signs of deterioration of these mechanisms, then they must be immediately replaced with new ones. You can buy these parts at car dealerships.

If a motorist has a little experience in repairing a VAZ 2110 gearbox, then he can safely repair the gearbox on his own. From this article, it is clear that this is not so difficult to do. Even a car owner, who does not have enough experience and skills, can cope with this problem. But if, nevertheless, a person is far from this, and has no idea what and how to do, in this case, turning to a specialist for help will be the right decision. Of course, when contacting specialists for help, it will cost the car owner a certain amount of money. But it's better to pay the money and get a quick and high-quality gearbox repair.

A manual transmission is a set of gears that, in different combinations, mesh with each other and form several gears with different gear ratios. The key advantages of this mechanism include a relatively low price, high efficiency and simplicity of design. Also, a car with a manual gearbox is economical and has good acceleration dynamics.The manual transmission was invented by Karl Benz, who created an imperfect model of this unit for his car in 1886. Gradually, this mechanism, which helps the vehicle to adapt to different driving options, has become more complicated and now it is the most popular in the world.Like any mechanical device, the gearbox is not insured against breakdowns and damage, so car owners are sometimes forced to leave their car for repairs. The gearbox also periodically fails, and at the same time motorists turn to specialized services to carry out repair work. Image - DIY VAZ 2111 gearbox repair

There is another option for restoring the operability of a manual transmission, which involves the independent performance of work. To do this, you need to remove the manual transmission, disassemble and replace the necessary parts, and then assemble everything in the reverse order. To do this, you need to have some experience and have a certain set of tools, otherwise the repair can be very delayed.

A manual transmission consists of a large number of components, each of which can break.

Below we will consider the main reasons for a transmission breakdown and figure out how to remove the mechanism from the car.

When shifting the lever to neutral, an abnormal noise is heard. In this case, the matter may be in the low quality of the lubricant or its absence. If, after changing the oil, the noise in the manual transmission does not disappear, it may be due to wear on the input shaft bearings, defects on the gear teeth or shaft displacement. In the event of any of the listed malfunctions, the necessary elements must be changed.

Gear shifting tight. The case may be a breakdown of the gear selection mechanism, a defect in the cardan joint or an incomplete clutch release. Also, the difficult operation of the manual transmission is sometimes caused by the weakening of the fasteners of the bolted connections or damage to the stem lever.

In this case, it is necessary to adjust certain elements and replace the damaged gearbox parts.

The gears are switched off by themselves. This malfunction can be associated with wear or damage to the gear teeth, loosening of the second shaft nut, wear of the rods and deformation of the forks, as well as increased vibration of the motor during operation. To solve the problem, you need to replace the defective elements and adjust the drive.

Extraneous sound when switching gears. The main reason for this is a breakdown of the clutch mechanism. Also signs of a malfunction may be oil leakage from the gearbox or increasing noise when the machine is moving in higher or lower gears. In the first case, you need to check all oil-containing elements for wear and replace them, and then change the oil. In the second case, the matter may be in the failure of the secondary shaft bearings, which require replacement.

Dismantling the VAZ 2110 gearbox is a simple task. Before that, you must first disconnect the negative terminal from the battery power and remove the mudguard. After that, the stabilizer is removed from the box and the oil is drained from the system. At the next stage of work, the clutch boot and the drive system are removed. After that, you need to remove the connectors of the speed and reverse sensors. The bracket can complicate subsequent actions, so it is better to remove it and put it aside, and then dismantle the left engine mount and unscrew the manual transmission mounting nuts. Now the gearbox can be removed and you can start repairing it yourself.

Repair of the gearbox can be done by hand at home. Using a wrench, you need to unscrew the bracket with which the gearbox was attached to the motor. After that, you need to dismantle the rear cover of the manual transmission. To disengage the transmission, it is necessary to push in or pull out the stem. After that, unscrew the fifth gear fork and turn it on with light blows on it. After that, you can proceed to the next stage of the gearbox repair.

To dismantle the fifth gear, you need to unscrew the nuts of the shafts - primary and secondary. At the next stage, the fifth gear is disassembled into its component parts:

We take out the plug.
Remove the clutch.
Let's dismantle the synchronizer.
We take out the thrust washer.

After completing the described work, you need to remove the fifth gear gear by lightly tapping on the input shaft until a small gap appears, which will simplify the procedure for dismantling the gearbox element. The rods and the locking plate can then be removed without any problems.

After sliding the thrust washer, you can remove the bushing and remove the circlip from the input shaft. The secondary shaft of the manual transmission is subjected to the same procedure. After that, you can pull out the input and output shaft together. Next, the mechanism responsible for the selection of gears is removed, as well as all its elements.

Using a special hook, we remove the shaft bearings, and knock out the oil seals and differential bearings.

After a complete disassembly of the VAZ 2110 manual transmission, you need to inspect for damage. Next, you need to replace certain parts and assemble the mechanism in the reverse order.

To ensure the long service life of the manual transmission and its normal operation, certain rules must be followed when assembling the unit.

For example, when installing the gear selector lever, carefully degrease the threaded holes and all mounting bolts.The edge of the manual transmission oil seals must be coated with oil, and the clutch retainer must be coated with grease.

We treat all surfaces of the mechanism in contact with each other with a sealant. For clarity, see the diagram of the VAZ 2110 manual transmission.

You will need: a socket wrench (head) "for 10", "for 13", "for 32", keys "for 10" and "for 17", a large screwdriver, a bit, a hammer, pliers for removing retaining rings, an impact screwdriver.

1. Remove the transmission from the car (see "Removal and installation of the transmission"). Remove any dirt from it and wash the outside.

2. Remove the oil level indicator (dipstick) from the transmission.

3. Install the gearbox vertically on the clutch housing, unscrew bolt 1 (a flat washer is installed under its head) and two nuts 3 (spring washers are installed under them) securing the clutch cable bracket. Remove the clutch cable bracket 2 from the transmission.

4. Remove the remaining four rear cover retaining nuts.

5. Using a screwdriver to pry the lug on the cover, remove the rear cover.

6. Unscrew the transmission fork securing bolt (a spring washer is installed under the bolt head).

7. Secure the transmission shafts against turning. To do this, engage the 5th gear by moving down the synchronizer clutch together with the fork so that the splines of the clutch mesh with the gear, then engage the 3rd or 4th gear by moving the gear selection rod.

8. Unlock and unscrew the input shaft retaining nut. To do this, you need to make a lot of effort, the nut is tightened with a large torque.

9. Having previously unlocked, unscrew the secondary shaft retaining nut. To do this, you need to make an effort, the nut is tightened with a large torque.

10. Using screwdrivers, lifting the driven gear of the V transfer with screwdrivers (thereby pressing the synchronizer hub off the shaft), remove it together with the synchronizer and the fork from the secondary shaft.

11. Remove the thrust plate from the synchroniser. Then remove the fork from the groove of the synchroniser clutch.

12. Remove the V gear from the synchronizer with a blocking ring 1. Mark the blocking ring 1 in relation to the clutch 2 and remove it. During operation, the teeth of the ring run in to the teeth of the coupling, therefore, during assembly, the ring must be installed in the same position. If you are not going to disassemble the synchronizer, tie it with wire or rope to prevent it from falling apart.

13. Remove the bushing from the output shaft.

14. Remove the transfer pinion from the input shaft. Note how it is installed.

15. Using an impact screwdriver, unscrew the four screws (spring washers are installed under them) securing the bearing plate and remove the bearing plate 1. Then remove the thrust washer 2 from the output shaft.

16. Remove the bearing retaining rings of both shafts while lifting the shafts by hand.

17. Remove the three retainer plugs and carefully remove the retainer balls with springs.

18. After unscrewing the reverse lock plug, remove the O-ring, and then remove the retainer spring.

19. Tilt the box and remove the retainer ball.

20. Remove the twelve nuts and the bolt securing the transmission housings. Pay attention, under which nuts the holder 1 and eye 2 are installed. Spring washers are installed under the nuts and the bolt. Remove the process plug 3.

21. Inserting a screwdriver into the grooves (three special grooves around the perimeter of the crankcases), separate the gearbox housing from the clutch housing.

22. Lift the gearbox housing slightly, turn it counterclockwise so that the lug 1 of the crankcase comes out from under the gear, and remove the gearbox housing from the clutch housing.

23. Remove the bolts securing the forks of I – II and III – IV transfers.

24. Slightly lift the shift rod of I-II gears so that it comes out of support 3, and turn it counterclockwise so that its head 1 disengages from the locking bracket 2. Remove the rod fork 4 from the groove of the synchronizer coupling and remove the rod with the fork ... It is not recommended to remove the forks from the rods unnecessarily so as not to confuse them during assembly.

25.Turning the III – IV gear shift rod, disengage its head with the gear selection lever. Then slightly raise the stem so that it comes out of the support, and, removing the stem fork from the groove of the synchronizer coupling, remove the stem with the fork.

26. Turning the V gear engaging rod, disengage its head from the locking bracket. Remove the stem by pulling it out of the support.

27. Remove the idler reverse gear axle.

28. Slide the reverse idler gear against the stop in the gear selection mechanism, turn it by 30 ° –40 ° and, pulling it out from under the shaft gears, remove the idler gear.

29. Slightly shaking, remove the input and output shafts at the same time.

30. Remove the differential from the clutch housing.

31. Remove the three bolts securing the gear selection mechanism (spring washers are installed under the bolt heads). Remove the gear selection mechanism.

32. Remove the magnet from the clutch housing.

33. Having unscrewed the fastening nut, remove the housing from the driven gear wheel of the speedometer drive. Replace a torn or loose body o-ring.

34. Unscrew the reversing light switch from the gearbox housing. A metal sealing ring is installed under it.

35. There is a special puller to press out the front bearing of the output shaft. If not, press out the bearing with a screwdriver.

36. Remove the oil sump installed under the bearing.

37. There is also a special puller to press out the front bearing of the input shaft. If not, bend the stiff wire hook-shaped attachment. Insert the tool into one of the two slots in the crankcase and place the hook under the bearing. Then, using a screwdriver (placing a block of wood), press out the bearing from the crankcase, applying force to the opposite end of the screwdriver with hammer blows and alternately rearranging the hook in the grooves.

38. Press the new front shaft bearings into the clutch housing up to the stop using a suitable mandrel.

39. Use a screwdriver to pry the edge of the gear selector shaft protector and slide it off the shaft support sleeve.

40. Remove the bolt 3 securing the lever 2 of the gear selection. Moving the rod 1, remove the gear selection lever. Then remove the selector rod from the clutch housing.

41. If it is necessary to replace the stem hinge, slide the protective cover off it and unscrew the bolt securing the hinge. The bolt is fixed with special TB-1324 glue. Before tightening the bolt, clean the old glue and apply a new one. Replace any torn or loose stem hinge protector.

42. To replace the clutch housing, remove the bearing and the clutch release fork from it (see "Replacing the clutch release fork"), press out the oil seals.

43. Inspect the clutch and transmission housings, as well as the rear cover. There should be no cracks or chips on them. There should be no nicks, marks, dents, etc. on the mating surfaces. Remove minor damage with a sanding paper. Replace defective parts if severely damaged.

44. Check the seats for the bearings in the clutch housing and in the gearbox housing. These surfaces should not show signs of wear or damage. Otherwise, replace the crankcases.

45. Check the condition of the roller bearings. If the raceways, cage or rollers are damaged and if a play is found in the bearing, replace it by installing it on the shaft (the radial clearance in the bearing should not exceed 0.07 mm).

46. Check the condition of the gear shift rods. Replace bent stems, with scuffs, burrs or worn out holes for retainers. Replace the forks if they are bent or their feet are worn out.

47. Check the seals of the axle shafts. The oil seals should not be warped or torn. The working edge should be flat, without grooves, dents and sagging of rubber. The packing spring must not be broken or stretched. Replace defective oil seals.

48. Also check and, if necessary, replace the seals of the input shaft and the shaft of a choice of transfers.

49.Replace damaged or heavily crimped gaskets.

50. Clean the magnet from wear particles. If the magnet is cracked or has weakened magnetic properties, replace the magnet.

51. Thoroughly clean the old sealant from the mating surfaces of the clutch and transmission housings and the rear cover. Reassemble the transmission in the reverse order of disassembly, taking into account the following.

52. Before installing the shafts, enter the teeth of their gears into engagement and in this position install them in the clutch housing.

53. Pay attention to how the forks are installed on the gear shift rods: 1 - a rod with a shift fork for I – II gears, 2 - a rod with a shift fork for III – IV gears.

54. Liberally lubricate all rubbing parts with gear oil.

55. Remember to reinstall the magnet.

56. Before installing the gearbox housing on the clutch housing and the rear cover, sealant is applied to the gearbox housing on their mating surfaces along the entire perimeter.

Reference manual for the maintenance of cars VAZ, LADA 110.

Ignition adjustment 2110. Compression of the engine VAZ 2112, immobilizer for VAZ 2111. Valve cover VAZ 2112, cylinder block gasket VAZ video. The cost of a generator for a vaz. replacement of fuses VAZ 2112, the design of the oil receiver VAZ 2112. Recommended factory oil in the box VAZ 2112. Replacement of the water pump (pump) VAZ 2112. Replacement of valve stem seals VAZ 2110.

It may be necessary to carry out work on dismantling the gearbox, both for performing repair work on the drive gears and for replacing the clutch. There is nothing difficult in performing such procedures, but they should be performed on a lift or in a pit, and best of all in the company with an assistant.

Handbrake + rear-wheel shoes = safety first

Before proceeding with the dismantling of the gearbox, ensure the car is in a level and stable position, make sure that wheel chocks are installed under the rear wheels. Lift the parking brake lever up as far as possible.

First of all, open the hood and turn off the power from the battery.
Next, we detach the clutch cable from the fork, taking it out of the place of fixation on the gearbox itself.

We take out the cable from the bracket

Seat speed sensor.

The old oil is drained from the gearbox.

A capacity of at least 5 liters is required

We remove the torn off bolts to the side.

We remove the weakened lever according to the diagram.

Almost done. The CV joint is already on the drive.

We unscrew the fasteners and remove the ball joint from the fist

The bolts are indicated by arrows. Under the number "1" - the crankcase, "2" - the gearbox housing.

When the box does not hold anything, we remove it to the side.

Now that these works are completed, you can continue to perform the next stage depending on your goals.

Installation and assembly of the gearbox should be carried out in a similar manner to removal.

I have already rented the gearbox twice, you can say a professional now in this business))).Loosen the bolt on the gear selection cardan. So as not to customize. Bolt with cone. He will enter himself. Loosen the two bolts securing the ball joint to the steering knuckle. The left "sword" can be left on. It is easy to move the checkpoint on it. If there is no hole, put the checkpoint back over the top of a suitable type of goats, as on which the logs are sawed. Only instead of a log there is a tube on which a rope is wound. The rise is done by twisting the pipe, the second is pushed into place. Another variant. The checkpoint is put on two or three tires (in front of the car it is raised as much as possible), pushed under the checkpoint place under the hood, and lowered in front of the car. Then they are pushed onto the engine. Thanks to all. And don't strain your lower back! The VAZ 2112 car is one of the common models that the Volzhsky Automobile Plant offers to purchase. The car is a 5-door hatchback. On this generation of cars, an increased luggage compartment is noted. The material of the interior trim is distinguished by its durability, which attracts many people with this model.The VAZ 2112 (Lada) car can be equipped with 16 valve power units, which have a volume of 1.5 liters, while the power reaches 93 horsepower. The power supply system of such a car is injector. It is recommended to use AI-95 gasoline. In the urban cycle, about 10 liters are consumed per 100 km. The VAZ gearbox in this case is mechanical. Image - DIY VAZ 2111 gearbox repair

Cars with a 1.6-liter engine, which is equipped with a manual transmission (5 tbsp.), Produces 89 horsepower. VAZ is less demanding on the quality of fuel, so AI-92 can be poured here.

How to remove the box? Before disassembling the gearbox, it must be cleaned. It is important that no water gets inside the box.

Main stages:

Battery power is cut off.
The block is disconnected from the speed sensor.
The transmission fluid is drained.
The bolts fixing the jet thrust are removed.
It is necessary to remove the constant velocity joints from their regular place.
The existing ball joint bolts are loosened.
Using a tool, the nuts holding the clutch cover to the box crankcase are unscrewed.
The bolts securing the gearbox to the motor are disconnected.
The power plant must be raised (it is worth using a jack).
The engine mountings are subject to dismantling.
You can use a screwdriver to hook up the gearbox.
The speed box slides off the rails. The input shaft should come out of the clutch.

The process of shooting from a regular location requires caution. That is why this procedure should not be carried out alone. Repair of a VAZ gearbox, its dismantling and assembly should be trusted by professionals. This will reduce the chance of damage to any of the gearbox components.Thus, if it is necessary to remove the gearbox on the VAZ 2112, the vehicles are placed in the inspection pit. Next, you need to disconnect the battery terminal, mudguard, stabilizer, nuts. Disconnect the sensors. Also, the gear lever is subject to removal. The oil is drained (about 5 liters needed).It is necessary to disassemble the gearbox if you are replacing worn-out components. The process begins after the box has been removed from the vehicle. The VAZ 2112 gearbox is installed vertically on the clutch housing, bolts and nuts are unscrewed. The rear cover, bracket, stem are subject to dismantling. Using a spanner wrench, the installed mounting bolt on the 5th gear fork is unscrewed. Use a socket head to loosen the shaft nuts. Next, the plug, coupling, hub is removed. It is necessary to dismantle all fixing, fasteners, retaining ring. Removal of the crankcase is carried out. All mounting bolts, stem, protective cover are removed. Access to the shafts, differential, gear selection lever is opened.