DIY vase box repair

In detail: do-it-yourself vase box repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

When there are problems with the gearbox, it must be addressed immediately. If you start this process, you can lose the possibility of repairing the gearbox, and you will need to directly replace it.

DIY VAZ 2106 gearbox repair

Attention. The gearbox consists of a large number of parts, many of them are similar, therefore, to facilitate assembly, the parts should be laid out on sheets of paper in order and be sure to sign each one.

1. Drain the oil from the gearbox.

2. Remove the gearbox.

3. Remove the clutch release drive plug and the clutch release bearing.

4. Thoroughly clean it from dirt, wash the gearbox housing with a brush and hot water and detergent from the outside and place it on the workbench with the clutch housing down.

5. Use two screwdrivers to separate the sectors of the spacer sleeve and ...

6.… remove it and the rubber bushing of the damper.

7. Remove the flexible coupling and flange from the gearbox output shaft.

8. Using the "13" head, unscrew the two support fastening nuts.

10. Using the "10" head, unscrew the nut that secures the speedometer drive ...

11. ... and remove the speedometer drive.

12. Using the "22" key, turn off the reverse light switch ...

14. Using the "13" key, turn off the stop for shifting the gear shift lever.

15. Using the "13" head, unscrew the two nuts securing the bracket.

16. Remove the bracket and take out the square head bolt.

17. Using the "13" head, unscrew the remaining nuts securing the rear cover of the gearbox.

18. Remove the rear cover by moving the shift lever to the right to free it from the gear shift rods.

Video (click to play).

19. Carefully, trying not to damage, remove the back cover gasket.

20. Remove the rear bearing.

21. Remove the drive gear of the speedometer and its retainer - a steel ball.

22. Remove the reverse gear and reverse intermediate gear.

23. Remove the distance sleeve from the reverse gear rod.

24. With a puller, remove the retaining ring from the intermediate shaft.

25. Remove the reverse drive gear and spring washer.

26. With a puller, remove the retaining ring from the secondary shaft.

27. Remove the driven reverse gear and spring washer.

28. Using an impact screwdriver, unscrew the four screws securing the bearing lock plate and the axis of the intermediate reverse gear.

29. Remove the locking plate.

30. Take out the axis of the intermediate reverse gear.

31. Using the “10” head, unscrew ten nuts securing the bottom cover.

32. Remove the cover. We put the gearbox on its side.

33. Using the "13" head, unscrew one nut, ...

34. ... and the head "17" - six nuts securing the clutch housing to the gearbox.

35. Disconnect the crankcases and remove the gasket.

36. Using the "13" head, unscrew the two bolts securing the cover of the rod retainers.

37. Remove the cover and remove three springs and three balls from the holes.

38. Take out the rod of the reverse engagement fork.

39. Using the "10" head, unscrew the bolt securing the plug for engaging 1st and 2nd gears.

40. We take out the rods, at the same time removing the blocking crackers.

41. We take out the rod of the plug of inclusion of the 1st and 2nd gears.

42. Using the “10” head, unscrew the bolt securing the plug for engaging the III and IV gears.

43. We take out the rod of the plug of inclusion of III and IV gears.

44. By clicking on the couplings, we turn on two gears at once and with the key "19" unscrew the bolt securing the front bearing of the intermediate shaft.

45. Prying the retaining ring with two screwdrivers, take out the front bearing of the intermediate shaft.

46. We push out the rear bearing of the intermediate shaft.

47.Tilting, remove the intermediate shaft from the gearbox housing.

48. We take out two gear shift forks.

49. Prying with a screwdriver, take out the input shaft assembly with the bearing and the synchronizer ring.

50. Remove the needle bearing from the secondary shaft.

51. Prying with a screwdriver, remove the key from the back of the secondary shaft.

52. Prying off with two screwdrivers, remove the secondary shaft rear bearing.

53. We take out the secondary shaft from the gearbox housing.

54. Vertically install the secondary shaft, clamping it in a vice through cardboard spacers. Remove the synchronizer sleeve for III and IV gears.

55. Remove the retaining ring with a puller ...

56. ... and remove the synchronizer hub and spring washer.

57. Prying off with a screwdriver, remove the retaining ring, as well as the locking ring and the synchronizer spring.

58. We remove the gear wheel of the III transfer.

59. Leaning the gear wheel of the 1st gear on a hard base, knock out the secondary shaft with a hammer through a spacer made of soft metal ...

60. ... and remove from it the II gear assembly, the synchronizer coupling for the 1st and 2nd gears, the synchronizer hub, the 1st gear assembly and the 1st gear sleeve.

61. Elements of synchronizers I, II and IV (on the input shaft) gears are disassembled similarly to the synchronizer of III gear.

62. To remove the input shaft bearing with a puller, unclench the retaining ring ...

63. ... and remove it together with the spring washer.

64. Leaning the bearing on a rigid base, knock out the input shaft with a hammer through a drift from soft metal.

65. To remove the gear shift lever from the rear cover of the gearbox housing, disconnect the return spring from the lever.

66. Using the "10" wrench, unscrew the three nuts securing the ball joint of the lever and ...

67.… remove the lever from the studs.

68. To replace the cuff of the drive (primary) shaft, we knock out the cuff with a punch through the hole in the front cover of the gearbox and ...

We thoroughly wash all parts in kerosene or diesel fuel and inspect them. The teeth of gears and couplings should be free of chips, scoring, fatigue chipping and noticeable wear. The surfaces of shafts, axles and shift rods must be completely smooth, free from scoring, pits and severe wear. There should be no cracks or nicks on the crankcase, and there should be no wear or traces of turning in the bearing bores. Corrosion and traces of crushing and galling are unacceptable on the shaft splines. Minor damage can be repaired with fine sandpaper followed by polishing, but it is better to replace damaged parts with new ones.

All rolling bearings, both ball and roller, must be in perfect condition, their radial play must not exceed 0.05 mm, any defects on the tracks and rolling elements are unacceptable. Separators should not have breaks, touching rings and melting (for plastic ones). In general, if the "mileage" of the box exceeds 120 thousand km and the unit is being repaired with disassembly, it is better to replace all bearings with new ones, regardless of their condition, especially if severe damage to gears and gear clutches was noticed. We replace the cuffs with new ones in any case. When assembling, we lubricate all the parts of the box, incl. the bearing seats and the bearings themselves with transmission oil, the joints of the crankcase and covers are covered with a thin layer of oil-resistant sealant, and the parts of the switching mechanism are coated with SHRUS-4 grease.

We assemble the gearbox in the reverse order of disassembly. The spring of the reversing fork rod retainer is different from others in stiffness and has a black coating. Before installation, the working surface of the cuffs is coated with a thin layer of Litol-24 grease. We tighten the bolt of the intermediate shaft bearing clamping washer with a torque of 8.1–10.0 kgf.m. We tighten the nut of the rear end of the secondary shaft with a torque of 6.8–8.4 kgf.m.

We clean it from dirt and rinse the gearbox from the outside.

In the same way, remove the circlip from the secondary shaft bearing.

You can replace the hinge of the gear selector shaft on the gearbox installed on the vehicle.For clarity, we carry out this operation on the removed stock.

In the same way, we replace the outer ring of the input shaft bearing.

In the same way, we knock out the oil seal and the outer ring of the differential bearing from the gearbox housing. We take out the adjusting ring.
We clamp the input shaft in a vice with soft metal pads.

To disassemble the output shaft, we support the main gear drive gear on a wooden stand.
We insert a chisel or a powerful screwdriver into the gap between the end of the drive gear and the inner ring of the front bearing.

We clamp the secondary shaft in a vice with soft metal pads.

We clamp the driven gear of the final drive in a vice with soft jaws.

To remove the differential bearings, we clamp the box in a vice.

Detailed step-by-step instructions for disassembling and assembling the gearbox of a VAZ 2110 car and its repair. Watch the video and photos of the procedure.

When starting to disassemble the gearbox, it should be noted that if in the gearbox, when it was repaired, one of the parts was replaced: bearings or differential housing, clutch housing, then it is necessary to replace the adjusting ring of the differential bearings. And then start disassembling the box itself.

We disassembled and repaired the gearbox of the VAZ 2110 car.

1. Remove the gearbox from the machine, clean it from various dirt and wash it from the outside.

2. The pointer that shows the oil level must be removed from the gearbox.

3. Place the gearbox in an upright position on the clutch housing and unscrew the bolt numbered 1 with a flat washer, and two nuts numbered 3 with a spring washer that secure the clutch cable bracket. Remove this bracket from the gearbox by unscrewing all the bolts.

4. On the back cover, unscrew all the remaining fastening bolts (there are four of them).

5. Remove this cover. To do this, using a screwdriver, you need to raise the tide located on the lid.

6. The bolt with spring washer holding the fifth gear fork must be removed.

7. Then it is necessary to prevent the gearbox shafts from turning. To do this, they need to be fixed: the synchronizer sleeve and the fork must be moved down with the fifth gear engaged so that the gear and the coupling splines are connected, then turn on the third or fourth gear by moving the gear selection rod.

8. It is necessary to loosen the nut securing the input shaft and unscrew it. You have to try this because the nut is very tight.

9. Then do the same with the output shaft, as well as with the primary.

10. In fifth gear, lift the driven gear with screwdrivers (doing this, the synchronizer hub is pressed from the shaft). Together with the gear, it is necessary to remove the synchronizer and the output shaft plug. But it is imperative to make sure that the synchronizer sleeve does not move out and remains on the hub, since the balls that fix the synchronizer can crumble.

11. Remove the thrust plate from the top in the synchronizer, and then in the synchronizer itself in the groove of the coupling, get the fork.

12. The fifth gear and the locking ring (1) must also be removed from the synchroniser. It is necessary to number the blocking ring (1) and the coupling (2), and remove the ring. This must be done in order to put the ring in the same position as it was, because during operation the teeth of the coupling and the ring have already run in to each other. If there is no reason to disassemble the synchronizer, then it must be connected with something, so that it does not fall apart.

13. On the output shaft, remove the bushing.

14. There is a 5th gear drive gear on the input shaft. First you need to remove it and remember how it stood.

15. Remove the bearing plate (1). To do this, take an impact screwdriver and unscrew the four bolts with lock washers on the bearing plate mount. Remove thrust washer (2) on the output shaft.

16. Lift the two shafts by hand and remove the bearing circlip from them.

17.Unscrew the clips and remove the balls from there together with the springs.

18. Then unscrew the reverse lock, remove the O-ring, and remove the retainer spring.

19. Remove the retainer ball by tilting the box.

20. Unscrew twelve nuts and a bolt with spring washers on the fastening of the gearbox housings. Remember the place for the holder (1) and the eyelet (2). The process plug (3) must also be removed.

21. There are three special grooves along the crankcases. Insert a screwdriver there and disconnect the clutch housing from the gearbox housing.

22. Raising the gearbox housing, turn it to the left until the crankcase comes out from under the gear. Then remove the gearbox housing from the clutch housing.

24. Raising the shift rod for the first and second gears, watch when it comes out of the support (3), and then turn it to the left until the head (1) stops clinging to the locking bracket (2). Remove the rod with a fork; to do this, remove the rod fork (4) from the groove of the synchronizer coupling. If there is no need to remove the plug from the rods, then it is not necessary, as you can later confuse them.

25. The head of the shift rod of the third and fourth gears must be disconnected from the gear selection lever by turning the rod. Then raise the stem so that it does not have support, and remove the stem with the fork by pulling them out of the groove of the synchronizer coupling.

26. Remove the fifth gear engagement rod from the support by turning it and taking out the head, which was connected to the locking bracket.

27. Remove the idler reverse gear axle.

28. Remove the intermediate gear. To do this, you need to move the reverse idler gear to the gear selection mechanism, turn it 30-40 degrees and remove it from under the shaft gears.

29. Remove the primary and secondary shafts at the same time, slightly shaking them.

30. Remove the differential in the clutch housing.

31. On the mount in the gear selection mechanism, unscrew three bolts with spring washers and remove that mechanism.

32. Remove the magnet in the clutch housing.

33. On the housing of the speedometer drive with the driven gear, unscrew the nut and remove the housing itself. If the body o-ring has no elasticity or is torn, it must be replaced.

34. There is a metal sealing ring under the reversing light switch, so unscrew the switch. It is located in the gearbox housing.

35. Then press out the output shaft bearing with a special puller or screwdriver.

36. Remove the oil sump located under the bearing.

37. Press out the input shaft bearing with a special puller. If this is not available, then it is necessary to bend the wire in the shape of a hook, insert it into the groove of the crankcase and place the hook under the bearing. Using a screwdriver, press out the bearing from the crankcase, placing a wooden block under the screwdriver and knock on the screwdriver with a hammer, rearranging the hook in the grooves.

38. In the clutch housing, taking a suitable mandrel, press in the new front bearings to the stop.

39. Move the edge in the protective cover of the selector shaft using a screwdriver. Slide the lip together with the stem support sleeve.

40. Move the stem by unscrewing the bolt on the gear selector lever mount and remove this lever. Then remove the gear selector rod in the clutch housing.

41. If it is necessary to replace the stem hinge, it is necessary to move the protective cover on it and unscrew the bolt on the hinge fastening. For strength, TB-1324 glue was applied to the bolt. Therefore, before assembling, clean the bolt and apply this glue. If the protective cover in the stem hinge is frayed or not elastic, then it must be replaced.

42. Replace the clutch housing. To do this, remove the clutch release fork and bearing from the boat, then press out the oil seals.

43. In the clutch housing and gearbox, it is necessary to check all surfaces of the rear cover.If there is minor damage, they can be cleaned with sandpaper, and in case of significant damage, any part, such as cracks, chips, dents, should be replaced.

44. Then check the clutch housing and gearbox for integrity. In case of any defects, the crankcase must be replaced.

45. Check roller bearings. If the rollers, raceway or cage are damaged, then they must be replaced and installed on the shaft, taking into account that when measuring the radial clearance, its value should be no more than 0.07 mm. If there is play in the bearing, then it must also be replaced.

46. When checking the gear shift rods, replace them if they are bent, there are burrs or scuffs, the holes for the clips have worked out or there are irregularities. Also replace the forks if they are defective (for example, the legs are worn out or the forks are bent).

47. Check the seals of the axle shafts. If there are any tears, they look bad, the edge is uneven or with torn parts, with beads of rubber, the spring is stretched or broken, then the oil seals should be changed.

48. It is also worth checking and, if necessary, replacing the oil seal of the selector shaft and the oil seal of the input shaft.

49. When checking a magnet, if it is intact, then it is easy to clean it from dirt, and if there are small cracks or it already does not magnetise well, then it should be replaced.

50. The surfaces of the gearbox and clutch housings, as well as the rear cover, are very well cleaned of sealant.

51. The teeth of the gears must engage and be installed in the clutch housing, and then install the shafts.

52. When installing forks on the gear shift rods, you need to know: 1 - the stock together with the shift fork for the first and second gears, and 2 - the stock together with the shift fork for the third and fourth gears.

53. All parts that rotate must be well lubricated with gear oil.

54. Place the magnet in its place.

55. It is necessary to install the gearbox housing on the clutch housing, while it is imperative to lubricate all contacting surfaces with sealants for better connection with each other. Also lubricate the mating surfaces with sealants when connecting the rear cover to the transmission case.

Video on disassembling the VAZ 2109 gearbox:

in the cabin, take out the gearshift lever;

dismantle the propeller shaft, disconnect the exhaust pipe from the crankcase;

disconnect the traverse from the bottom of the body;

Next, we disassemble the transmission unit:

We inspect the parts and make defect diagnostics - install new parts, assemble the gearbox.

Four-speed gearboxes VAZ 2108-09 were installed only on the first models of "eights" and "nines", mainly on these machines were "five-speed". A frequent illness of the manual transmission 2109 is noise at various speeds, quite often it occurs at idle speed, without squeezing the clutch. If the hum disappears when the clutch pedal is depressed, the cause of the malfunction is the input shaft bearing. The boxes are noisy due to the incorrectly selected oil for filling. Many car owners fill the box with engine oil, but it is too liquid, it has insufficient lubricating properties for gearbox parts. However, even with engine oil, MPP may not make noise - this is a matter of chance. Nevertheless, it is recommended to use a special gear oil for front-wheel drive cars, so there will be less problems with the transmission.

Repair of the VAZ 2109 gearbox is also carried out with the removal of the assembly, after removing the box, we disassemble it:

first of all, we dismantle the bracket on which the clutch cable is attached;
dismantle the back cover;
we unscrew the nuts holding the 5th gear (key or head 32 mm), fasteners are located on the shanks of the shafts (2 pcs.);
unscrew the 5th gear fork bolt, dismantle the fork together with the clutch;
from the other shaft we dismantle the fifth gear itself with a synchronizer;
unscrew four screws, remove the fixing plate;
on the side of the body, remove the three rod retainers (balls and springs);
using spreaders we dismantle the bearing retaining rings;
unscrew the nuts securing the body to the "bell" (13 nuts), halve the body;
we unscrew the bolts of the gear forks, take out the rods, and then the forks;
dismantle the industrial reverse gear;
now we take out both shafts at once;
the differential with a large gear is also removed easily by hand;
dismantle the gearshift mechanism;
now it remains to disassemble the shafts themselves, make troubleshooting, put new parts in place and assemble the box.

The gearbox on the 2114 model is installed almost the same as on the 2108/2109/21099 machines. The "fourteenth" gearbox was equipped with such a gearbox until 2010, and then these cars were equipped with a new "ten" type manual transmission (with an enlarged bell), with one small difference - the gear selection mechanism was taken from the gearbox 2108.

Gearboxes 2108-09 until about 1995 went without dipsticks, the oil level in them was checked, unscrew the control hole plugs on the side of the case. On models 2113-14-15 until 2010, there is almost the same manual transmission 2109 of the new model (with an oil dipstick), therefore, the repair of the VAZ 2114 gearbox is carried out in the same way as on the "nine" box.

The gearbox VAZ 2110 (2111/2112) is in many ways very similar to the gearbox 2109, the difference is as follows:

on the case of the "ten" box, the starter is attached with two pins, on models 2109-09-14-15 - with three pins;
the rear starter bushing 2109 is located in the manual transmission housing, on the "top ten" this bushing is not in the gearbox housing.

If the repair of the VAZ 2110 gearbox does not make sense, for example, to restore its operability, a lot of spare parts are required, if you wish, you can put the gearbox from the "nine", well then it will be necessary for the "top ten":

install a flywheel from 2108;
replace starter 2110 with 2108-09.

The gearbox of the Chevrolet Niva SUV is structurally very similar to the "classic five-step" 2107, therefore, in principle, the repair of the VAZ 2123 gearbox is practically no different from the repair of the VAZ-Classic manual transmission - disassembly and assembly is carried out in approximately the same order. If the native "Chevin" box has become completely unusable, if desired, a 5-speed gearbox can be installed on the car. 2107 or "Niva" 21213/21214, but some alterations will be required.

Disassembly and assembly of the gearbox is not particularly difficult, the main thing here is not to confuse anything and put all the parts correctly in their places. Another thing is important - the most basic problem in repairing a VAZ gearbox with your own hands is to accurately determine the cause of the malfunction, and if all defective parts are not replaced, the problem will not be eliminated, and the work will have to be redone.

Some tips for self-repair of VAZ car gearboxes:

before starting work, you need to stock up on manuals, read the necessary information - it is possible that in one publication the process of disassembling and assembling the unit will be described in incomplete volume;
disassemble and assemble the manual transmission without haste, carefully, once again checking your actions with the instructions;
before disassembling, you should stock up on various boxes, and put the disassembled parts in them in a certain order - even if many parts are replaced, it will be easier to assemble the gearbox;
troubleshooting should be carried out very carefully - pay attention not only to the wear of the gear teeth, but also to the condition of all shafts - they may have worn out seats for the gears;
if the condition of the part is in doubt, it is better to replace it immediately, in which case you will not have to remove / install, disassemble / assemble the gearbox again;
on front-wheel drive VAZs, it is very important to fill the gearbox with high-quality transmission oil (special for front-wheel drive cars) - when using low-quality oil in the manual transmission, noise (howling) may occur;
on VAZ 2108-15 models, the gear and the 5th gear clutch can be replaced without removing the box; for replacement, you need to hang out the power unit and remove the rear transmission cover.

Automatic transmission 2109The choice of the vehicle speed is performed by a mechanism called a gearbox. On a VAZ 2109 car, five or four gearbox steps are installed.
Timely diagnostics of the unit operation, repair and replacement of worn parts with new ones ensures the reliability of the car. In this case, the cost of repairs will be significantly lower than when attracting car service specialists.The VAZ 2109 checkpoint requires repair in the following cases:

If the elements of the assembly are heated.

There is increased noise during engine operation.

Can't Shift Gears

On the move, the transmission may "get out".

Before starting repair work, the gearbox is removed from the vehicle. To do this, the machine is placed on an inspection pit or a lift, and the hood is secured against accidental closure.
So:

The storage battery, TDC sensor, starter traction relay are disconnected.

The ground wire is disconnected from the crankcase.

The TDC sensor and the clutch housing are decoupled from each other.

The speedometer turns off.

The clutch release fork is disconnected.

A bracket is mounted to raise the engine to the stud that secures the exhaust manifold.

The motor is suspended on the lifting mechanism.

The engine splash shield and the cover located at the bottom of the clutch housing are removed.

The oil is drained from the gearbox.

The reversing light is switched off.

Its thrust is disconnected from the selector shaft.

The engine and gearbox are decoupled.

They are released from fixing the axle shaft of the steering knuckle hub.

The ball joints located on the suspension arms are disconnected from the fists.

The shafts for the wheel drives are retracted to the sides.

Tip: If the wheel drive and half-axle gear are difficult to separate, it is necessary to simultaneously remove the gearbox with the wheel drive, and then press out the hinge on the bench plate.

The gearbox is removed from the studs and the suspension bracket located in the lugs of the side member of the machine body is removed.

The starter is removed.

The clutch disc is disconnected from the gearbox shaft, which fixes the crankcase to the engine.

The gearbox is removed from the car.

Advice: When repairing the gearbox, you need to pay attention so that its input shaft does not rest on the petals located on the pressure spring. This could damage them.Repair of a VAZ 2109 five-stage box begins with cleaning it from dirt and a good wash from the outside.
So:

The box is placed vertically upward. The nuts securing the rear cover of the assembly are unscrewed.

The clutch cable bracket is removed.

Using a rubber hammer, the rear cover is carefully detached from the gearbox housing.

The gasket is removed.

Tip: If the gasket is carefully removed and not damaged, it can be re-installed during assembly.

Third or fourth gears are included.

The bolt securing the fifth gear fork is unscrewed, which is then turned on. In this case, the synchronizer clutch moves down with the fork in such a way that the clutch splines mesh with the gear.

Make sure the shafts do not turn.

The nuts on the input and output shafts of the gearbox are unscrewed.

With a screwdriver, the fifth gear synchronizer is pushed on and removed together with the fork.

The fork is removed from the coupling.

Tip: Remove the synchronizer carefully. Do not allow the synchronizer clutch to come off the hub.
Otherwise, the spring-loaded balls that fix the synchronizer may crumble.

The ring blocking the fifth gear is removed from the synchronizer.

Prying the driven gear of the fifth gear with a screwdriver, it is removed from the secondary shaft.

The thrust washer is pulled out of the needle bearing.

The 5th gear needle bearing is removable.

The drive gear of the same transmission is removed from the input shaft.

The bearing plate is released and removed.

The fifth gear needle bearing sleeve and thrust washer are removed from the output shaft.

The bearings of the input and output shafts are freed from the retaining rings.

The retainer plug is unscrewed.

The balls of the retainer with a spring are carefully removed.

The rear engine support is removed, which is previously freed from the mounting bolts.

The stopper of the reverse lock is unscrewed. Then the gearbox is tilted and the retainer ball is removed from it together with the spring.

The nuts and bolt fixing the gearbox housing to the clutch housing are unscrewed.

Using a large screwdriver, the gearbox and clutch housing are disengaged.

Tip: In order not to damage the gasket for the seal, the screwdriver is inserted into special grooves and gently swayed until the nodes are separated.

The gearbox housing is removed.

The fork is released from the fastening to shift the first two gears, the stem is lifted and removed together with the fork from the unit.

The bolt fixing the fork is unscrewed to shift the third and fourth gears.

The connecting rod head is disengaged from the mating part and the rod is removed simultaneously with the fork.

The head of the fifth gear stem is removed from the lever, which is then turned and pulled out.

The retaining ring is removed.

The fork is removed to engage reverse.

Removing the fork to engage reverse

The reverse gear is removed together with the axle.
At the same time, the shafts are removed - primary and secondary. To do this, they need to be wiggled slightly from side to side.

Pulling out the input and output shafts

Together with the differential, the driven gear of the final drive is removed.
It is released from the fastening and the gearshift mechanism is removed.
The gasket is removed.
The front bearing is pressed out of the clutch housing on the output shaft inside the crankcase, as shown in the photo. To replace it, you must remove the oil seal.

Pressing out the front bearing on the secondary shaft of the clutch housing

Advice: Replacing the bearing of the input shaft must be performed with the replacement of the oil seal.

A magnet is pulled out of the clutch housing.
The nut holding the speedometer drive housing is unscrewed, which is then removed from the driven gear of the assembly.
If necessary, the rubber ring for sealing is replaced on the device body.
The speedometer drive housing is freed from the driven gear with the shaft and the O-ring.
The switch for the reverse light is turned out of the gearbox housing.
From the flange, located on the gearbox, the cover is displaced, which protects the hinge of the drive rod for gear shifting, and the opposite edge of the protective cover is removed from the flange of the hinge.
The bolt fixing the hinge on the gear shift rod is unscrewed and the hinge is removed from the rod.
The protective cover is removed.
The lever and the rod are released from the fastening and pulled out of the clutch housing.
If there are traces of oil leakage on the clutch housing, it is necessary to replace the oil seal on the gear shift rod.

The clutch housings and the rear gearbox cover are visually inspected. Parts should not have cracks or chips.
Mating surfaces without scratches, dents, bays. Small damages are removed with sanding paper.
Severe defects indicate replacement of parts.

In both crankcases, the bearing seats are checked. They must be free of damage and wear.

The gear shift rods are checked. Seizures, depletion of places for clamps, burrs, curvature indicate replacement of the rods.

The gland of the box is checked. If there are leaks, a replacement is needed.

The gear shift forks are checked. If they are severely worn out, they need to be replaced.

If the bearings are worn out, they must be replaced.

Damaged gaskets are replaced.

The magnet is cleaned of wear particles. Cracks, weakening of magnetic properties are not allowed.

The mating surfaces of the gearbox and clutch housings, the rear gearbox cover are thoroughly cleaned from the old sealant.

How to assemble the assembly can be seen in the video. The instruction indicates that the assembly is performed in the reverse order of disassembly.
At the same time, some recommendations are taken into account:

The installation of the primary and secondary shafts in the crankcase must be done after the teeth of their gears are engaged.

Gear shift forks must be installed as follows:

on the first rod - a fork for shifting the fifth gear;

on the second - a fork that switches the third and fourth gears;

on the third - a fork for engaging the first and second gears.

All rubbing parts are abundantly lubricated with gear oil.

A magnet is installed in place.

Before installing the gearbox housing on the clutch housing, sealant is applied on a plane along the entire perimeter of the parts. The same solution is used when installing the back cover.