DIY headlight corrector repair

In detail: do-it-yourself headlamp corrector repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Understanding the principle of operation of the headlight range control allows not only to diagnose a breakdown, due to which the adjustment of the level of the cut-off line of the dipped beam does not work, but also to restore it yourself. Let's consider how to repair an electromechanical headlight corrector and a hydrocorrector.

In the article "Why the headlight range control does not work" we examined the main malfunctions of the system, as well as the repair method by completely replacing all the components of the system. Nevertheless, the hydrocorrector in most cases lends itself well to repair. In order for the hydraulic corrector to stop working normally, the loss of even a small amount of working fluid is sufficient. You can replenish the loss with ordinary antifreeze.

It is not necessary to fill the system with antifreeze liquid for windshield washer. At negative temperatures, the liquid decreases in volume, which subsequently leads to airing of the system.

6 - handle for adjusting the light beam; 1 - the main adjusting mechanism; 2 - working cylinders with a rod acting on the headlight reflector.

Many drivers do not burden themselves with either repair or replacement of the hydraulic corrector. When the headlights begin to shine down, they simply screw in self-tapping screws from the back of the slave cylinder. Adjustment of the position of the rod and the level of inclination of the headlights is carried out by twisting and unscrewing the self-tapping screws.

After such a repair, the concept of headlight range control is no longer applicable to the system, since the possibility of quickly adjusting the angle of inclination of the headlight reflector from the passenger compartment disappears. But such a repair has the right to life if a malfunction caught you on the road and there is simply no other way to raise the headlights.

Pull the actuators out of the headlight assembly.
Remove the tubes from the seats, then fix the tubes so that the remaining working fluid does not flow out of them. It is better to preheat the landing site, but you can simply cut the tubes at the edge of the seats. Check the stroke of the actuator cylinders by sliding them by the stem with pliers. The pistons must move without wedging.
Each actuator has a plug for bleeding the system, which must first be pulled out.
Turn the switch on the dashboard to position O. Fill the tubes with antifreeze so that a small drop remains on top, and then put them on the fittings of the actuators.
Position the slave casings with the bleed port at the highest point.
While holding the stem in the maximum retracted position, fill the slave cylinder with liquid until a small “hill” forms over the pumping hole.
Close the cover.

Video (click to play).

The system should work, but since there was no troubleshooting of the tightness of the connections at the master cylinder, the regulator at the dashboard and the seals of the working cylinders, one cannot be sure of the long service life of the hydraulic corrector after such a repair. This method of restoration will not work if the system is airy at the master cylinder in the passenger compartment.

You need to know where it is located and how to remove the headlight hydrocorrector, since for a full-fledged troubleshooting it will be necessary to dismantle the working cylinders and the main adjusting mechanism. Take 2 small pieces of tube to connect the working cylinders with the main mechanism after removal, fill the system with water.If the device is operational, turn the switch to the maximum headlamp leveling mode and leave the mechanisms in this position for several hours. If no leaks have appeared during this time, the system can be filled with antifreeze and installed on the vehicle. If the leak does not appear in the pipe connections, it is better to replace the hydraulic corrector with a new one or install an electrical corrector instead.

Use only new coolant so that dirt particles do not interfere with the normal piston stroke. Remember that the system must be completely filled with working fluid. To recover, you will need a syringe and a blunt needle to avoid damaging the cylinder seals. DIY repair, the assembly and disassembly process are perfectly shown in the video.

If, using the methods of searching for defects in the power wiring, it was not possible to solve the problem of a faulty electromechanical corrector, you should start with diagnosing the geared motor. Image - DIY headlight corrector repair

Having assembled the circuit shown in the figure, you can check the smoothness of the servo drive. If the geared motor does not respond to the power supply, you can safely proceed to its replacement or disassembly. In most cases, the case is secured with plastic clips. If the latches cannot be snapped off, they can be carefully cut off, and when installing part of the case, they can be connected with dichloroethane (special glue for plastic). The motors themselves fail extremely rarely, but they are sold separately.

The control board inside the case will also snap into place. Armed with a magnifying glass, carefully examine the board for micro cracks in the solder - this is the most common cause of a malfunction. To eliminate the defect, you will need a soldering iron, rosin and some solder. Abrasion of the resistive layer of the stem position sensor is also possible. Due to the appearance of a permanent mismatch error, the electronic control unit overheats and fails. If desired, the microcircuit can be replaced separately. For example, the tda3619 microcircuit is the basis for controlling the headlight corrector on a Daewoo Lanos car. It is worth looking for it separately on eBay or just buying a used spare part for disassembly - it's up to you.

On systems with automatic headlight range control, the body position sensor most often fails. Typical malfunctions: broken off points of attachment of rods, souring of rods inside silent blocks, oxidation of connector contacts, sensor internals.

To characterize the dipped headlights (ECE and DOT rules regulate the adjustment of dipped beam only), the concept of a cut-off line is used. It means a conditional line where the headlight beam ends with a transition in front of the road into almost complete darkness. It is one of the main characteristics of vehicle lighting in accordance with the regulations of most countries. Here is a video of what it is, look, and everything will become clear:

The cut-off line should provide an optimal balance between sufficient road illumination for safe driving and a minimum level of glare for oncoming vehicle drivers. Its position is determined by the level of the body - the consequence of raising the border is a strong blinding of other drivers, and lowering it leads to a deterioration in road lighting.

A device designed to maintain a given position of the optical axis of the headlights relative to the road surface, regardless of the driving conditions (speed, modes) and vehicle load, is the headlight range control. Since 1999, its presence has become mandatory for all cars produced in Europe.

Depending on the principle of operation, the correctors can be:

with manual control (forced action);
automatic action.

As the name implies, the manual headlight range control is controlled directly by the driver.This is done using one of the various actuators:

Electromechanical headlight range control is the most high-tech, which makes it more widespread and in demand. It consists of a headlamp position switch, a gear motor and an electrical connection wiring.

The rotary switch (regulator) of the headlight position is installed in a convenient place on the instrument panel (usually to the left of the steering column). With its help, the driver sets the cut-off line that is optimal for driving (headlight level). The switch allows you to raise or lower them to one of the fixed positions.

With the help of a gear motor (photo above), consisting of a DC electric motor, a worm gear, an electronic control circuit, the rotary motion from the electric motor is converted into a translational one. Under its influence, a rod with a ball tip that fits into the latch of the lower part of the headlight (its top is hinged) makes it change the angle of inclination, which leads to a correction in the vertical plane of the cut-off line.

Video of how the manual headlight range control works:

A fairly reliable manual headlight range control is still inferior to the automatic one, which provides better performance and is more convenient in operation. In addition, due to the emission of high intensity light by xenon headlights, the use of automatic correction is mandatory for them. With the help of the automatic corrector, the light beam is maintained in accordance with the driving conditions (road irregularities, acceleration, turning, lifting, braking) and the load at the same level.

The automatic headlight range is also used with halogen headlights. Its design is simpler than the version with xenon headlights and allows automatic adjustment of the cut-off line depending on the position of the body.

The automatic headlight range control consists of ride height sensors (usually 2-3 sensors are used, front and rear), an electronic control unit, and actuators. The control unit, through sensors, monitors the ground clearance on the front and rear axles (that is, determines the angle of inclination of the body) and, based on this data and the speed of movement, adjusts the angle of inclination of the headlights.

The operation of the sensors is based on the use of the Hall effect (a certain potential difference arises on a conductor with a direct current passing through it, injected into a magnetic field). The magnetic field in the sensors is created by permanent magnets built into the rotor, connected to the suspension by a rod. The stator is a kind of Hall sensor, the change in potentials on which determines the value of the angle of inclination of the body.

The use of only one ultrasonic sensor, which is fixed in the back of the case with the help of a hinged suspension, significantly reduces the cost of the design. This makes such correction systems available for self-installation. In this case, the manufacturer indicates the minimum permissible distance between the sensor and the road. So, for most Hella correctors it is 250 mm.

Duplication of the work of the automatic headlight range control is carried out using a traditional electromechanical headlight range control.

1. Remove the headlight and remove the old manual corrector (I had it on Logan).

2. To enlarge the hole where the old headlight range control was.

3. Attach the new device socket to the sealant (outside and inside the headlight).

4. Next, install the new Hella headlight range control into this socket.

5. The vehicle ride height sensor is mounted at the rear from below. The headlights will adjust themselves depending on the load of the car (set at 26 cm).

6. The sensor wire pulled in the tunnel where the tubes go.

That's all, the installation cost 0 rubles, and the set of the Hella universal automatic headlight range control now costs about 14,000 rubles. Powered by a 12 Volt battery.

Headlight correctors can be a standard system, or they can be installed independently. Also, the driver, if desired, can replace the corrector on his car with a more advanced one. Today, commercial enterprises offer their customers these devices from various manufacturers of various classes.

The prices for headlight correctors fluctuate, depending on their type, in a very wide range. So, a VAZ driver can purchase a hydrocorrector at a very reasonable price - from 280 rubles. up to 450 rubles An electromechanical corrector will cost 1,700 - 1,900 rubles.

As for the Hella universal auto-corrector of headlights, which can be installed on almost any car, then 13,900 - 14,200 rubles will have to be paid for it. Devices of the same class from other manufacturers differ in cost, both downward and upward.

A headlight corrector for GEELY CK can be purchased, for example, for an average of 1,000 rubles; prices for this device for Lanos fluctuate in the same range.

Video - installation of an electric headlight corrector for an Opel Omega A car with xenon:

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Lancer IX sedan 1.6 MT

Haven't written anything for a long time. There is still no time. But then I did it once, I have to describe it.

The crux of the problem is that the right (passenger) electric headlight corrector has stopped buzzing. It was decided to quickly take Bushny from the disassembly and put it on, which I did with the help of a trip to EuroAuto (2750 rubles at the time of writing the post) and to the St. Petersburg club service (500 rubles and a pleasant conversation with the guys).

The old proofreader took it to gut.

So, gut it. To remove the cover, pry off 5 ears with a fingernail or a flat screwdriver, and remove the part opposite to the metal rod with a ball. We see that the reason for the failure of the corrector is the leakage of its body. Slurry poured into the corner and the paths rotted. The board is single-layer (on the getinax CEM1 it looks like), the holes are ess-but not metallized, so it is rather delicate and does not like soldering, two-layer ones are stronger:

Now attention. To remove the board, it is necessary to unhook the copper plate from the axis, which helps the potentiometer turn, which is needed for feedback to the corrector controller microcircuit. Do this very carefully. Plastic is fragile, it can become as it was for me:

On the FTM there is a report on the autopsy of the proofreader from one of our comrades. From there I learned that the microcircuit is there - something like this: thanks to the maniacs.

What it is? This is a special microcircuit. In fact (now there will be information for those who understand in electronics) - a two-threshold comparator that compares two voltages. One comes from a potentiometer in the passenger compartment. The second comes from a potentiometer, which is installed in the corrector itself. You turn the potentiometer in the cabin, the microcircuit sees a mismatch of more than a nth, and turns on the motor in the right direction. The motor drives, the headlight rises or falls, the potentiometer built into the corrector creeps until the voltage from it is equal to the voltage from the control potentiometer in the passenger compartment. Naturally, there are built-in hysteresis, motor control keys (collector 12V) and so on. In addition to the microcircuit, there are also a couple of resistors, capacitors (one for 1 nF has collapsed, I replaced it with a ceramic output), a protective diode at the power input so as not to be hit with a polarity reversal and some other nonsense, I did not even delve into it.

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I did not pay the fee, tk. it was not known whether it would be fixed or not. There are good photos on the MTF.

Not really including the brain, we clean the board, connectors, change the collapsed condender, duplicate rotten roads with our feet from the resistors, clean the contacts, we get this:

Without looking for information on the internet, we figure out the topology, where there is +, where -, where is the control signal. We connect + 12V from the desktop PSU, taking into account the polarity. Between the ground and +12 we put a couple of kOhm variable, its sliding contact is in the center of the corrector connector.We spin the changer, we hear that the engine is running. Vin! For the test, you do not need to climb into Lancer.

In the last photo: ground on the left, 12 V supply on the right, control in the center.

Then we recall that we broke half of the ears that hold the lever that pulls the slider of the built-in potentiometer (copper garbage around the axis in the photo). In order to somehow support the remaining 2 ears in their difficult task, we attach a spring to the axis and close the case. At the same time, I smeared everything with plumbing smelly silicone so that it would not leak anymore (the standard rubber seal did not save). Do not forget to put rubber washers-bushings on the plastic pins (3 pcs. In the first photo). I forgot, I had to disassemble and silicone again!

Now I have a spare proofreader and satisfied curiosity, and you have my report.

Video, as it buzzes (there is also the polarity of the inclusion again):

Pay attention to the nuance of the design: upward (towards the camera) the slider of the potentiometer built inside is pushed by a healthy white gear, but downward (away from the camera) is just a copper spring, the fixing ears of which break so easily.

I hope my information will be useful to someone. By the way, the detail is German, Hella, made in Germany. Brakodels

Faults in the headlight range control reduce the level of safety when driving in the dark. Before starting the search and elimination of a breakdown due to which the headlight range control does not work, familiarize yourself with the principle of operation of the cut-off level control system.

Among the most probable reasons for the inoperative headlight hydrocorrector, one can single out the depressurization of the joints of the pipes, sealing cuffs. The consequence of loose connections is the loss of working fluid, air suction into the system. For proper movement of the working pistons, the system must be completely filled with liquid. The manufacturer does not intend to repair the hydrocorrector, therefore, in the event of a system failure, the assembly is replaced as an assembly. Nevertheless, the article "Hydrocorrector repair" shows that the system is amenable to troubleshooting and restoration.

Where is the lamp hydrocorrector located? Each of the headlights has an actuator that acts on a reflector, from which 2 tubes go into the passenger compartment. Through the technological hole in the engine panel, the pipes go to the master cylinder and the switch on the dashboard.

All works will be shown on the example of VAZ cars, in particular, Lada Granta, but on other models the design will not have much difference.

dismantle the lower decorative panel to the left of the steering column (held by clips);
remove the handle of the hydraulic corrector switch. To dismantle, just pull the handle towards you;
the main mechanism is fastened with a 21 nut, which can only be unscrewed using a union head. Since the tightening force of the nut is small, a 22 cap head is also suitable for unscrewing;
pull out the main mechanism from the inside;
each headlight housing has its own slave cylinder. To pull it out, turn the actuator body counterclockwise until the latches are released and pull it towards you;
it is necessary to release the tubes that are attached to the body with special clips with clamps. If you are not going to repair the hydraulic corrector, then the tubes can be cut off, which will greatly simplify their dismantling (they can be simply pulled out by pulling on the section of the tube at the left headlight). It happens that the hydrocorrector does not work, but there is still quite a lot of fluid in the system, so prepare a container in advance to drain it;
remove the negative terminal and dismantle the battery in order to gain access to the technological hole in the engine shield (10 and 13 spanner keys are required);
first drown one of the edges of the sealing gum with a screwdriver, then gradually push it into the interior;
remove the tubes together with the seal by pulling on the main mechanism in the passenger compartment.Most likely, you will have to disconnect the connectors at the pedal assembly, which will block the exit of the seal.

To install from the passenger compartment, pull the actuators and tubes through the hole to the cuffs. Since the space at the pedal assembly is limited, it is advisable to ask someone to pull in the engine compartment for the tubes directed by you from the inside. The sealing rubber must be pulled out of the motor shield, and then installed from the outside into the groove. All you have to do is lay the tubes along the factory circuit. Clips with clamps, if necessary, can be purchased or replaced with conventional clamps.

An electrically driven system is much more reliable than a hydraulic corrector, but it is not without its drawbacks.

breaking, chafing of wires, formation of oxides in connectors;

wear of electric motor elements;

burnout of circuit elements (for example, due to overvoltage in the on-board network of the machine or ingress of moisture into the control unit housing). Malfunctioning resistors can lead to the fact that the corrector will not work correctly or only in a limited range of adjustment. Often the problem is the wear of the resistive tracks, which provokes contact bounce. The ECU will constantly try to equalize the voltage, as a result of which the elements of the microcircuits fail due to overheating.

We will consider the process of diagnosing an electromechanical forced-action headlight range control. Diagnosis of complex malfunctions in automated systems that use ride height sensors requires much more specialized technical training. Image - DIY headlight corrector repair

Before starting diagnostics, you should study the wiring diagram for connecting geared motors on your car.

with 5-wire connector for geared motors. This method of connection can be found not only in standard systems, but also in kits for installing an electric corrector with your own hands (for example, EMKF 11);
with a 3-wire connector for geared motors (most often found on modern cars). Accordingly, one of the contacts will be "ground", the second - a constant "+", the third - a signal wire.

Despite the different pinout, the headlight corrector works on most cars according to a similar principle. The principle of operation is based on a constant comparison of the voltage across two variable resistors. One of the resistors is connected to the headlight range control switch on the dashboard, and the other to the sensor for the actual position of the electrocorrector rod. Comparison of voltages with a differential amplifier allows for voltage equalization in the event of a mismatch error. Thus, turning the switch on the dashboard leads to the extension of the electric drive of the headlight range control by a fixed distance.

Checking the fuse (we recommend that you read how to replace the fuse correctly). If the fuse often blows, there is a bare contact in the circuit, provoking a short circuit.
Visual inspection of the connectors for the presence of contact oxides, you should also inspect the visible circuit of the wiring for chafing, breaks. Oxides can be removed from contacts with a file.
Checking the power supply with a multimeter. If a check with a multimeter showed that the cause of the malfunction is not in the connectors or wiring, to search for a breakdown, disassemble the gearmotor or headlight range control unit. Examine the circuits for burnt, swollen radio components, poorly soldered contacts. If necessary, most of the elements can be easily purchased at a radio parts store.

If you have not previously encountered the diagnosis of electrical appliances, we recommend that you read the instructions for using the multimeter. The first step is to check whether a constant "+" comes to the connector of the geared motor and whether there is a "mass" on it.Also, in the DCV measurement mode, connect the positive probe to the signal wire, and the negative probe to the ground pin.In the off state, the voltage is minimal, while when the switch is turned, it should be from 3 to 10 V. Before checking, the dipped headlights must be turned on.If "-" or "+" does not come to the chip, the same operation should be performed with the connector that connects to the control unit in the passenger compartment. If power leaves the ECU chip, but does not come to the connector, then the matter is in a broken wiring. If there is no power supply to the geared motor at the connector, check the "ground" and "+" of the control unit itself. The situation when power comes to the unit, but the ECU does not react in any way to the change in the switch position, indicates a malfunction inside the headlight range control unit.

Often, motorists are faced with the need to repair the headlight hydrocorrector on the VAZ 2110 with their own hands. There may be several reasons for this. But in any case, they are associated with the impossibility of normal adjustment of the light beams. The system works as follows, with a standard load, the headlights shine on the road.

If you put something heavy back, then the stern of the car will sink, and the front will rise. Accordingly, the headlights will no longer shine on the road, but slightly higher. This reduces visibility and increases the risk of dazzling oncoming drivers. To correct such situations, a hydrocorrector is used.

With an increase in the mass of the car, the headlights go down a little, and the road is normally illuminated. When the load is reduced, the lights rise.

Do-it-yourself repair of a headlight hydrocorrector on a VAZ 2110 has several features. All of them are associated with the structure and location of this device. In general, this device consists of several elements:

The master cylinder, it is located behind the dashboard;
Working cylinders. They can be seen on the headlights;
Pipelines, they connect the master cylinder to the workers;
Special liquid.

This whole structure is not demountable. In the event of a malfunction, the entire element must be replaced. The system works as follows. By turning the corrector knob, you advance the cylinder piston. Accordingly, the fluid pressure increases and the headlight cups are set in motion. They lean forward a little.

Many motorists are tormented by the replacement and installation of a hydraulic corrector. But in reality, this work is not difficult. And if everything is done correctly, then no problems should arise in this case. The replacement consists of the following steps:

First, preparation is done. Remove all clamps securing the tube to the body. It is also advisable to remove the radiator expansion tank. This will make it easier to access the headlamp. In the cabin, they remove the control knob, for this they simply pull it towards themselves;
Next, you should get the cylinder. To do this, grab the switch on the panel and pull it off. In most cases, it can be easily removed. After that, the cylinder is unscrewed from the switch. This is done using a head 22. After that, the cylinder is pulled by the tube under the torpedo. As a result, he must hang on the hoses;
The slave cylinders are disconnected from the headlamp. They are dragged into the salon. This completes the dismantling of the corrector.

Assembly is carried out upside-down. When doing this, pay attention to the seals. They should be level. Otherwise, it will be noisy in the cabin, and in winter it will blow from there. Do not forget to check the operation of the new hydraulic corrector. If it turns out that it does not work, you will have to repeat the procedure.

The hydrocorrector should be replaced only in case of fluid leaks. Also if he cannot push the slave cylinder for some reason. Most often due to malfunction of the tubes.But sometimes the reason for the failure is not the cylinder itself. Then the repair can be made without replacing this part. The correction mechanism itself is located in the headlight block. It consists of:

Metal ball;
Plastic clip;
Bobbins;
Limiting groove on the headlamp housing;
Recoil spring.

The slave cylinder, resting on the bobbin, moves the ball along the groove, thus, the headlight lowers. When the piston of the cylinder moves back to its original position, the spring pushes the cage with the ball back. It often happens that a plastic part cracks or a spring bursts during adjustment. This is easy to fix without replacing the entire system.

To do this, you will have to remove the headlight. Remove the bulbs from it. Dismantle the glass. It is attached with a sealant and 6 metal staples. Then the spring is removed from the reflector and, after unscrewing a couple of screws, it is removed. After that, the damaged parts are replaced. Assemble in reverse order.

The hydrocorrector is not very reliable. Therefore, many motorists replace it with an electrical analogue. This is done as follows:

The battery is disconnected;
Next, the hydrocorrector is dismantled;
A new seal is installed;
Remove the corrector adjustment knob and connect a new electrical appliance to it. To do this, use the key for 22;
Connect the positive wire to the mounting block, you need to connect to socket 20, block Ш2;
The minus is attached to the nearest body stud;
A new actuator is installed in the headlamp;
The wires can be pulled over the location of the old tube;
The pads are connected to the main mechanism. The operation of the device is checked.

An electric corrector costs a little more than usual. But it is more reliable. You do not have to change this part for a new one every few months.

Conclusion... The correct operation of the headlights is extremely important for road safety. Thus, the job of a proofreader is a must. Do-it-yourself repair of a headlight hydrocorrector on a VAZ 2110 is quite within the power of every motorist. Some of the difficulties are more than offset by travel comfort.

The reason for my failure was the leakage of fluid through the seals of the working cylinders (even drops of it were visible in the front of the cylinders).

It is necessary to repair in a warm place, since at low temperatures all plastic parts and tubes are fragile, bend with difficulty, and break easily.

A week later, the second headlight fell. Already having experience, I did the same with her in an hour, along with disassembly-assembly (I spent two hours on the first one with intermediate reflections and tea drinking).

That's all. It's been about four months now - no signs of leakage or dropping headlights. The adjustment margin remained. Much nicer to ride than with plugs.

Update as of 12/23/10 by PROHODIMEC

It is more convenient to put the retaining ring when assembling the hydraulic corrector if the cylinder is installed in its place (the rubber boot is removed from both the retaining ring and the piston). After we take the head at 13 (I have a Force), we collect the retaining ring + spring + piston into it. Now, holding the cylinder under the wing with one hand so that it does not break, rewrite this entire structure with your hand; insert the head + retaining ring + spring + piston into the piston. This is followed by a light press - and the retaining ring is in place. The rubber boot is easier to put on in its place, if you remove the hydrocorrector from the seat again.

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Reason for repair: The EMKF motor (Electra mechanical headlight corrector) is constantly running, screeching and not turning off.

Need to:
Key TORX 20.30
Screwdriver flat and curly
Knife
Hairdryer or bowl of hot water
Cloth, oils, auto-plasticine
Blade from a disposable machine
Matchbox
Tweezers
Small wire cutters
Glass bonding tape ABRO WS-904 or thermo-sealant

1. Unscrew 3 screws (flat screwdriver or TOPX 30)
2. Grasp the corner of the lower outer part of the headlight with your fingers and pull the tops towards you, this we remove the headlight from the side retainer that stands in the area of the wing
3. Now we remove the upper corner of the headlight from the wing mesh
4. We pull the headlight towards ourselves a little and by pressing the latch on the connector, slightly shaking it, remove the connector from the headlight

5. We put the headlight on the fabric "glass" down
6. Remove the rubber cap - cap and remove the three bulbs
7. We unscrew the two screws that hold the turn signal reflector (TOPX 20)

8. To remove the glass of the headlight, you need an industrial hair dryer, but due to its absence, the glass had to be removed in a different way
9. He poured hot water into a wide basin and lowered the headlight into the basin with the glass at the bottom for a while
10. Then we remove the headlamp from the water and, using a flat wide screwdriver, slightly squeeze the glass from the headlamp housing and do not forget to unfasten the side clips.

If possible, put a screwdriver on the edge and so make 2-3 circles, then lower the headlamp in hot water for a while. We remove the headlamp from hot water, squeeze the glass from the headlamp housing and cut the rubber film of the sealant with a knife ……… 15 minutes have not passed since the headlamp was detached from the glass.
11. We put the headlight without glass on the table and take the lower corners of the reflector with our hands and pull the reflector towards ourselves and slightly upward, hear a click, this means that we have docked - disconnected the reflector from the EMCF

12. The reflector did not pull off from the upper adjusting mounts
13. Raised the reflector and placed a matchbox under it
14. We take a long curly screwdriver and unscrew the two screws securing the EMCF

15. We put our fingers in the rear mounting window and, in the course of the headlight, remove the EMKF from the guides and pull the EMKF through the mounting window.
16. We boldly pull out the connector with the EMCF
17. We rewrite the code from the yellow label pasted on the EMCF 0 307 853 319 and go to look for a used EMCF and order a new one.

But, my searches during the day did not lead to anything, although I found similar photos on the network, for example:
Fiesta - code 0 307 853 301,
Octavia - code 0 307 853 303,
Unknown auto - code 20-5319-MA-1, the code 0332993 etc.

By the end of the day, I decided to find out the device and, if possible, repair the EMKF

18. Remove the cover from the EMCF using a knife or a thin flat screwdriver, unfasten 4 clips
19. We take small wire cutters and on a rheostat (potentiometer or variable resistor) we cut or break off one side of the safety bar - partitions and wrap it up (while I was looking for a breakdown and punk experiments, it completely broke off).

20. The rheostat engine is connected to the worm lever. It is necessary to disconnect this connection and for this we make a hook made of wire or with tweezers we take it by the engine and pull it towards ourselves and easily pull it off the lever latch, remove it from the guides of the rheostat
21. We wring out the contacts on the engine

22. We put a cloth soaked in oil on a thin screwdriver and grease the tracks of the rheostat (do not fill in with oil, just wipe it with oil)
23. We insert the blade from a disposable machine into the guides for mounting the rheostat engine

One inconvenience in all work is the absence of an industrial hair dryer, so the melting temperature of the sealant is 90 - 300C, and this temperature is not terrible for the headlight housing.

The cut-off line should provide an optimal balance between sufficient road illumination for safe driving and a minimum level of glare for oncoming vehicle drivers.Its position is determined by the level of the body - the consequence of raising the border is a strong blinding of other drivers, and lowering it leads to a deterioration in road lighting.