DIY boiler repair

Here is a complete description of the gas valve bulkhead. Economy for the gas boiler AOGV Zhukovsky. And in all our subsequent work with you, regarding the diagnosis of unit malfunctions, we will constantly refer to this article in order to get to the true cause of the boiler malfunctioning and quickly defeat the cold making its way into the house.

So! To begin with, consider the insides of the valve in the first small diagram, by the way, kindly provided to us by the Zhukovsky plant. It is not very comfortable, but nonetheless.

How does a gas valve work?

1. Starting the igniter. Push the button of the solenoid valve (22). When pressed, the valve needle will push down through the sealed diaphragm (25) onto the stem of the upper valve (24) and the gas, through the slots in the seat (the seat is not shown in the diagram) of the upper valve (24) will rush into the hole leading to the pilot. It should be noted right away that the position of the top valve (24) is normally closed. If the button is released, the spring will push it back. And the position of the bottom valve is normally open. Another spring opens it until it is closed when the boiler is heated by the “accordion” expansion of the temperature of the bellows-thermocylinder. The O-ring (28) is a sealed gasket between the top valve seat and the body of the block. After the igniter has lit up, the thermocouple has heated up, and we have released the valve button (22), which has remained in the pressed position, you can proceed to start the main burner.

On gas boilers AOGV Econom, a gas valve is cut into the gas pipeline between the gas block and the burner. When starting the igniter on a cold boiler, this gas cock must be closed. This is to ensure that the gas does not split between the igniter and the burner. To ignite the igniter confidently. We open the tap, the burner lights up. If the boiler starts up hot, then the lower valve of the block can be closed. It is kept in this state by a warmed-up thermowell-bellows. In this case, the main burner will start when the temperature control knob is turned in the direction of increasing the temperature.

2. Setting and adjusting the operating temperature. After the burner has lit up and the boiler has started to work, the question arises, what will happen next? Then the following happens. The lower valve (23) on a cold boiler is always initially normally open, because it is squeezed out by a spring. This valve will close only when the “accordion” of the bellows-thermo bulb, expanding when the set temperature is set, presses with its stem, which goes inside the valve body, through the seal (27) on the lever, which will begin to close and close the lower valve (23), and the burner will go out. By turning the knob of the temperature regulator of the bellows-thermal bulb, you are able to set any temperature within the permitted range, i.e. to enable the bellows-thermo-balloon “accordion” to press on the stem and close the lower valve both at + 35C and + 90C.

3. Idling. When the lower valve (23) is closed, gas access to the boiler burner is closed, and the boiler remains operating only on the igniter. Transferring heat to the heat carrier of the heating system, the boiler gradually cools down. The "accordion" of the thermal bellows gradually shrinks. The spring of the lower valve (23) tends to push it down, to the open position, and when the spring force is higher than the force of the “accordion” of the bellows-thermal bulb, the valve will move and open the gas access to the burner, which will “light up” from the igniter flame. With the scheme finished.

Now so. Everything that you will see here now represents the foundation on which the correct diagnosis of any malfunction can only be built.associated with the operation of the gas valve AOGV Econom. All other assumptions not based on this knowledge are usually wrong. They either entail absolutely useless waste of time and money, and if successfully implemented, they still do not provide reliability. And the Econom valve is a great and extremely reliable thing. Make sure now.

Functionally, the block consists of two parts. Top and bottom. The first part, the top one, is the hardest part. We need two things: attention and accuracy. There is no rush.

Top part. Remove the solenoid valve from above. When separating the valve, we hold the needle sticking out downward so that it does not fall out. (More details here.)

We take out the rubber membrane. She sits pretty tightly. We are not afraid! Carefully, so as not to damage, we pick it out from there.

Under the membrane we see a plastic cap, into which, when pressed, the needle of the solenoid valve rests. We take out the cap.

Next, we see the upper inner sleeve. The sleeve sits loosely. We take it out. When we take it out, we see that the bushing has a hole for the passage of gas inside our gas block.

This is the hole. When reassembling, these holes, of course, must be aligned. Next, we see a sealing rubber ring between the block body and the upper valve seat. The top valve, when pressed, allows gas to the pilot. The saddle has slots. It is through these slots that the gas goes down, and with the upper valve open, it goes to the igniter. We take a screwdriver and pry this thing right behind the slots.

The top valve seat and the top valve itself are in our hands. If the gas goes down through the slots in the seat, we understand that the working surface of the upper valve is in contact with the seat from below. After that, calmly take out the lower sleeve and see a hole in it. Where does it lead to? Right. To the igniter. This hole is located clearly opposite the fitting, onto which we then screw the boiler igniter nut.

If we look inside the block after all the above manipulations, we will see the bottom valve seat with holes for gas passage to the main burner.

For a more complete understanding, we give a small layout of the elements in the next photo.

1. Bottom valve seat O-ring. Should be between block body and bottom valve seat.

2. Hole through which gas initially enters the unit. This hole should be aligned with the hole in the top bushing. otherwise, the gas simply will not enter the block.

3. These are the holes in the bottom valve seat for the gas to pass to the main burner.

5. Fitting leading gas to the igniter.

6. A hole allowing gas to pass to the igniter. It must be aligned with the hole in the lower bushing of the block.

It should also be noted that at the gas inlet to the block, in the place where the entire block is attached to our boiler, a mesh filter is installed at the inlet.

Now let's move on to the second half of our block.

Bottom part. Remove the valve cover by unscrewing 6 screws.

An amazing picture arises before our eyes that answers the question "What is an Economy gas valve?" Answer: Nothing! The word "Nothing" is meant in an exclusively joyful and positive aspect. I mean its simplicity, accessibility to understanding, even if you like - the beauty of the solution. And most importantly, the independence of the operation of this device from anything. We prove our words.

1. This is a gas pipe through which gas flows to the main burner of the boiler when the lower valve is opened.

2. This is the bottom valve itself. Moreover, it is worth noting that its working surface is on top. That is, when closed, the valve is firmly pressed against the upper seat. The bottom valve is now open, as we filmed it all on a cold boiler.

3. Lever. We call this the bottom valve rocker.

4.A very important thing. A pin resembling an ordinary nail.

5. Sylphion-thermocylinder stem.

Now let's get back to the question of how our gas valve works.

1. Starting the igniter. The start and operation of the igniter belongs entirely to the upper part of the gas block. Pressing the button, starting the gas, igniting the igniter, heating the thermocouple and, as a result of this, fixing the button in the pressed position refers to the operation of the upper valve, thermocouple, solenoid valve and that's it.

2. Setting and adjusting the operating temperature. As we can see from the photo taken on a cold boiler, the bottom valve is always open. Those. when you press the button and start the gas to the igniter, part of the gas will go to the burner. To prevent this from happening, there is a gas cock between the gas block and the burner. By the way, this tap is present only at the boilers of the Zhukovsky plant. And then so. See that the stem of the thermal bellows (5) is missing to the rocker arm (3)? When the boiler reaches the set temperature, the bellows-thermo-bulb “accordion” will begin to move apart, pressing on the rocker arm, it will displace the lower valve (2) until it is completely closed. When gas access to the burner is completely closed by the lower valve, the boiler remains at idle speed. Only the igniter works. When the boiler cools down, the “accordion” is compressed, and the lower valve is slightly opened by a spring installed on the valve stem. The burner starts up.

Let's continue. We take the pliers and easily remove the rocker pin. By the way, over time, it starts to jam. Lubricate it or replace with any nail that fits the diameter. We remove the rocker with a screwdriver towards ourselves. As soon as we release the rocker arm, the bottom valve will fall down.

We take the lower valve in our hands. It is no different from the top, except for the length of the stem. Want to change your aperture? It's easy. We pull off the ring that fixes and at the same time tightens the diaphragm.

In this photo, you can clearly see the trail of castor oil to see where the working surface of the valve is in order to evenly tighten the diaphragm with the ring.

So. There is still one thing left. Replacing the stem seal of the thermal bellows assembly. We take out the stock with pliers. We pick out the gum of the seal with a thin screwdriver. We just take it out. We see the place where it lies. We put a new one.
See also here what to do if the temperature regulator knob is jammed in the Economy ZhMZ block

When reassembling, do not forget to align the holes on the bushings with the working holes of the igniter and gas inlet to the block.

Prologue. There is no device in the world that is simpler and more reliable than this thing. It is a pity when we are forced to bring and sell assembled gas valves, instead of unscrewing 10 screws (4 for the magnetic box and 6 for the valve cover), go over, find and see the malfunction and do everything 10 times cheaper than it costs in a new form at the factory.

Golden Rule. In gas technology, problems are not shut up only with money! They are also solved with the head. You can spend money, and the effect of this will be ZERO. It is clear that it is difficult to adapt to this. Well, actually, the article was written for this. )))))

Promise. We personally with you, with our own hands, a little later, will definitely pick (and there is no doubt about that) a couple of imported valves. So that someone does not yell at us about how this valve is more reliable than the valve that we just disassembled.

Floor standing gas boilers AOGV-11.6-3 are single-circuit units with a rated power of 11.6 kW. The device is capable of operating from both natural and liquefied gas at a very economical consumption. Today it is the best option for heating a house with an area of ​​up to 110 sq. m. At the same time, the unit has acceptable dimensions (850x310x412 mm), which makes it easy to find a place for it in the house and facilitates the installation of the boiler.

In general, AOGV-11.6-3 are distinguished by their reliability and practicality; these heating devices are time-tested and ideally suited for operation in Russia. AOGV boilers do not require any special conditions for operation. However, after several years of operation, it may be necessary to clean the unit with all accessories from soot and other contaminants.

How quickly soot will accumulate in your AOGV depends on several reasons, including the initially correct installation of the device. The process of cleaning AOGV is not so complicated, so it is advisable to carry it out regularly, at least for prophylaxis, before the start of each heating season.

When starting the procedure for cleaning a gas boiler, be more careful about the details of any design in the unit. Everything has its purpose, and ill-considered actions can lead to emergency situations.

Before proceeding with any action, shut off the gas supply from the household wiring. To clean the AOGV-11.6-3, you will have to disassemble the unit:

• dismantle the burner block in order to mechanically clean the igniter nozzle;
• remove the top cover of the boiler to clean it from soot.

To remove the burner block, you need to turn the boiler pan and disconnect the pilot tube, gas tube and thermocouple contact tube from the automation unit. Then carefully unscrew the nuts on the fittings of the automation unit.

Remove the paronite gasket on the main gas pipe and check its condition. Check the gasket for wear and on the flare tube it will most likely remain on the tee fitting.

After disassembling this unit, the pallet can be easily rotated and through the groove closest to the pipes the holder is removed from engagement with the casing. While supporting the pallet underneath, push it slightly towards you and disengage the other two holders. Lower the entire unit to the floor and carefully pull it out between the boiler legs.

1. Check the condition of the main burner, clean if necessary. Then inspect the pilot flame nozzle.
2. Unscrew the two screws (wick and thermocouple) holding this assembly in position. For easier loosening, process the WD-40 screws, the process will go much easier.
3. Remove the canopy from the pilot burner to gain access to the nozzle. If necessary, remove any plaque from the brass nozzle effortlessly with fine sandpaper.
4. Clean the nozzle itself with a thin copper wire and blow it under pressure with a pump from the side where the tube is connected to the tee.
5. While there is free access, very carefully clean the bend of the thermocouple tube with fine sandpaper, there may be a small layer of oxide.

Reassemble all assemblies carefully in reverse order. Lift the entire assembly up slowly without skewing so that the burner goes into the housing and the igniter and thermocouple assembly does not snag on the casing flange. Standing on the side of the pipes, slightly push the entire assembly towards you with a slight downward slope so that the opposite edge of the pallet rises slightly.

While feeding the pallet forward, simultaneously put on the two far hooks so that they go over the flange of the casing. Direct the hook closest to you into the cut-out groove, and when it enters it, turn the entire pallet counterclockwise. The gas pipe should be directly under its branch pipe of the automation unit.

Check the presence and proper fit of the gaskets and reinstall all tubes. Use a wrench to tighten the nuts on the ignition tube and on the gas supply tube. Before reinstalling the thermocouple tube, very carefully clean the pads of the thermocouple tube. It is recommended to tighten this nut not with a wrench, but with your fingers.

Check the tightness of the connections for possible gas leaks and start the boiler.

First of all, to clean the AOGV boiler, remove the umbrella that goes into the metal part of the chimney. When the umbrella connecting the boiler to the chimney is removed, already under the umbrella itself you will see deposits of soot, which must also be cleaned off.

Then remove the top cover of the boiler. To do this, first disconnect and dismantle the draft sensor, if the retaining screws cannot be unscrewed, remove the cover together with the sensor. To do this, use a 14 wrench to unscrew the nut connecting the tube to the tee of the automation unit.

Check the paronite gasket for wear. Disconnect the draft sensor tube. Unscrew the self-tapping screws securing the cover to the boiler casing. Clean the back of the cover.

Remove the boiler water heat exchanger cover. Its fasteners - metal wedges - are easily reduced to the center and the wedge is removed from the slot. Remove all stoppers in the same way and remove the cover. A small gap that opens between the heat exchanger and the cover can be tightly clogged with soot.

Remove the gas flow turbulators from the heat exchanger channels. Remove the boiler pan with the burner block. Now you can proceed directly to cleaning all the components of the AOGV boiler.

For this operation, you will need a regular plastic bottle brush. It is available at your local hardware store and is great for cleaning vertical ducts. Tie it to a wooden stick with duct tape so that you can easily pass the channels along their entire height. In order not to dissolve excess dirt in the boiler room, take out everything that can be transferred to the yard for cleaning.

1. Begin cleaning from the top of the heat exchanger, scrubbing and sweeping down all the soot.
2. Then comes the turn of cleaning the channels.Soot from the walls will move away easily enough if it has not yet hardened, otherwise you will have to make some effort.
3. After completing the cleaning process of the boiler itself, go to the removed assemblies and parts. Clean the top cover of the heat exchanger. After that, remove the soot deposits on the top cover of the boiler itself and from the bell.
4. With the last brush, brush away the soot attacking from above from the burner block, the burner itself is already clean.

Immediately lightly clean the tube with fine sandpaper. This completes the cleaning process of the boiler and its parts. Go to the reassembly of the AOGV boiler.

To reassemble the boiler, first replace the burner block, as described above. Immediately connect all the pipes as expected, check the gaskets that they are all in place and not worn out, tighten the screws and nuts.

Replace the turbulators. The heat exchanger channel is now clean and the edge of the gas burner is clearly visible from below. It is simply impossible to make a mistake with the installation of turbulators. Simply insert them into the channels, they are held in them by the expansion of the central metal plate located on top. Insert so that the plate is oriented along the radius of the cylindrical heat exchanger, that is, the blades will be positioned approximately tangentially to the circle.

In the next step, replace the heat exchanger cover. In this case, the lugs for the latches must go into the slots of the cover. Insert metal cotter pins into the slots of the lugs and tap them slightly from the back. The cover should fit as tightly as possible to the heat exchanger. In conclusion, use pliers to part the antennae - and that's it, the lid will be securely fixed.

Then replace the top cover of the boiler. With its correct position, you will be helped to orient the holes from the self-tapping screws that came out normally. If the draft sensor has not been removed from you and is already in its place, you will only have to connect its tube to the tee and tighten the nut to fix it.

Complete the boiler assembly by installing the hood. Slip it under the pipe, put it on its socket, it should fit very tightly, then carefully put it in place. Make sure that the three projections on the cap fit into the corresponding holes in the boiler cap. In this case, the cut out semicircular window will be above the passing tube of the temperature sensor.

After that, of course, check all connections for leaks and proceed to starting the boiler. If the wick lights up immediately, and after 15 seconds the solenoid valve works, then the start went well.

Open the gas supply valve. The burner should ignite easily, and the fire should burn evenly, with the same height of the flames. Moreover, it is important that the tongues of flame are directed exactly upwards, and not to the sides. This means that the automation has worked perfectly, the cleaned boiler is working as expected.

Telephones for communication:

Operator: 8 (495) 506 81 52

Master: 8 (903) 297 35 57

Didn't get through?

8 (909) 240 90 51

127224 Moscow

st. Severodvinskaya 13

Repair of the automatic system of the gas boiler AOGV-17.4-3

Gasification of Russian settlements has been going on at a rather intensive rate recently.The main element of the equipment that is installed in every rural house is a gas boiler. The author of this material shares his experience in repairing the automation of the popular in rural areas gas boiler AOGV - 17.4-3 produced by the Zhukovsky Mechanical Plant.

Purpose and description of the main units of AOGV - 17.3-3.

The appearance of the heating gas boiler AOGV - 17.3-3 is shown on rice. one , and its main parameters are given in the table.

Its main elements are shown in rice. 2 ... The numbers in the figure indicate: 1-type breaker; 2- thrust sensor; 3-wire of the traction sensor; 4-start button; 5-door; 6- gas solenoid valve; 7-adjusting nut; 8-tap; 9-storage tank; 10-burner; 11-thermocouple; 12- igniter; 13-thermorigulator; 14-base; 15- water supply pipe; 16-heat exchanger; 17-turbulator; 18- bellows assembly; 19-water drainage pipe; 20-door traction interrupter; 21-thermometer; 22-filter; 23-cap.

The boiler is made in the form of a cylindrical tank. On the front side there are controls, which are covered with a protective cover. Gas valve 6 (fig. 2) consists of an electromagnet and a valve. The valve is used to control the gas supply to the igniter and burner. In the event of an emergency, the valve automatically shuts off the gas. Traction breaker 1 serves to automatically maintain the vacuum value in the boiler furnace when measuring the draft in the chimney. For its normal operation, the door 20 should freely, without jamming, rotate on the axis. Thermostat 13 designed to maintain a constant water temperature in the tank.

The automation device is shown in rice. 3 ... Let us dwell in more detail on the meaning of its elements. Gas passing through a purification filter 2, 9 (fig. 3) enters the solenoid gas valve 1... To valve using union nuts 3, 5 traction temperature sensors are connected. The ignition is ignited when the start button is pressed 4... On the body of the thermostat 6 there is a setting scale 9... Its divisions are graduated in degrees Celsius.

The value of the desired water temperature in the boiler is set by the user using the adjusting nut 10... Rotation of the nut leads to linear movement of the bellows. 11 and stock 7... The thermostat consists of a bellows-thermoballoon assembly installed inside the tank, as well as a system of levers and a valve located in the thermostat housing. When the water heats up to the temperature indicated on the dial, the thermostat is triggered, and the gas supply to the burner stops, while the igniter continues to work. When the water in the boiler has cooled down for 10 . 15 degrees, gas supply will resume. The burner ignites from the pilot flame. During the operation of the boiler, it is strictly forbidden to adjust (reduce) the temperature with a nut. 10 - this could damage the bellows. It is possible to reduce the temperature at the setpoint only after the water in the tank has cooled down to 30 degrees. It is forbidden to set the temperature on the sensor above 90 degrees - this will trigger the automatic device and turn off the gas supply. The appearance of the thermostat is shown in (fig. 4) .

Actually, the procedure for turning on the device is quite simple, and besides, it is described in the operating instructions. And yet, consider a similar operation with a few comments:

- open the inlet gas supply valve (the valve handle should be directed along the pipe);

- press and hold the start button. At the bottom of the boiler, a hiss of escaping gas will be heard from the pilot nozzle. Then ignite the igniter and after 40. 60 and release the button. This time delay is necessary to warm up the thermocouple. If the boiler has not been in operation for a long time, the igniter should be ignited 20.30 s after pressing the start button. During this time, the igniter will be filled with gas, displacing the air.

After releasing the start button, the igniter goes out. A similar defect is associated with a malfunction of the boiler automation system. Note that it is strictly forbidden to operate the boiler with the automatics turned off (for example, if you forcibly jam the start button in the pressed state). This can lead to tragic consequences, since with a short-term interruption of the gas supply or when the flame is extinguished by a strong stream of air, gas will begin to flow into the room.

To understand the causes of such a defect, let's take a closer look at the operation of the automation system. In fig. 5 shows a simplified diagram of this system.

The circuit consists of an electromagnet, a valve, a draft sensor and a thermocouple. To turn on the igniter, press the start button. The stem connected to the button presses on the valve membrane, and the gas begins to flow to the igniter. After that, the igniter is ignited.

The pilot flame touches the temperature sensor housing (thermocouple). After some time (30.40 s), the thermocouple heats up and an EMF appears at its terminals, which is sufficient for the electromagnet to operate. The latter, in turn, fixes the stem in the lower (as in Fig. 5) position. The trigger can now be released.

The thrust sensor consists of a bimetallic plate and a contact (fig. 6). The sensor is located in the upper part of the boiler, near the flue gas outlet pipe to the atmosphere. In the event of a pipe blockage, its temperature rises sharply. The bimetallic plate heats up and breaks the voltage supply circuit to the electromagnet - the rod is no longer held by the electromagnet, the valve closes and the gas supply stops.

The arrangement of the elements of the automation device is shown in Fig. 7. It shows that the electromagnet is covered with a protective cap. The wires from the sensors are located inside the thin-walled tubes. The tubes are attached to the electromagnet using union nuts. The body terminals of the sensors are connected to the electromagnet through the body of the tubes themselves.

The check during the repair of a gas boiler begins with the "weakest link" of the automation device - the draft sensor. The sensor is not protected by a casing, therefore, after 6.12 months of operation, it becomes "overgrown" with a thick layer of dust. Bimetal plate (see fig. 6) quickly oxidizes, which leads to poor contact.

Remove the dust coat with a soft brush. Then the plate is pulled away from the contact and cleaned with fine emery paper. It should not be forgotten that the contact itself must be cleared.Good results are obtained by cleaning these elements with a special spray "Contact". It contains substances that actively destroy the oxide film. After cleaning, a thin layer of liquid lubricant is applied to the plate and contact.

The next step is to check the integrity of the thermocouple. It operates in a severe thermal mode, since it is constantly in the igniter flame, naturally, its service life is much less than the rest of the boiler elements.

The main defect of a thermocouple is burnout (destruction) of its body. In this case, the transient resistance at the place of welding (junction) sharply increases. As a result, the current in the Thermocouple - Electromagnet circuit.

The bimetallic plate will be below the nominal value, which leads to the fact that the electromagnet can no longer fix the rod (fig. 5) .

A low value of thermo-EMF generated by a thermocouple can be caused by the following reasons:

- clogging of the ignition nozzle (as a result, the heating temperature of the thermocouple may be lower than the nominal). "Treat" a similar defect by cleaning the pilot hole with any soft wire of a suitable diameter;

- by shifting the position of the thermocouple (naturally, it may not heat up enough either). Eliminate the defect as follows - loosen the screw that secures the liner near the igniter and adjust the position of the thermocouple (Figure 10);

- low gas pressure at the boiler inlet.

If the EMF at the terminals of the thermocouple is normal (while maintaining the signs of malfunction indicated above), then the following elements are checked:

- the integrity of the contacts at the connection points of the thermocouple and the draft sensor.

Oxidized contacts must be cleaned. The union nuts are tightened, as they say, "by hand". In this case, it is undesirable to use a wrench, since you can easily break the wires suitable for the contacts;

- the integrity of the electromagnet winding and, if necessary, solder its conclusions.

The performance of the electromagnet can be checked as follows. Disconnect the thermocouple lead. Press and hold the start button, then ignite the igniter. From a separate source of constant voltage to the vacated contact of the electromagnet (from the thermocouple), a voltage of about 1 V is applied relative to the case (at a current of up to 2 A). To do this, you can also use a regular battery (1.5 V), the main thing is that it provides the required operating current. The button can now be released. If the igniter is not extinguished, the electromagnet and the thrust sensor are in good working order;

First, the force of pressing the contact to the bimetallic plate is checked (with the indicated signs of malfunction, it is often insufficient). To increase the clamping force, release the lock nut and move the contact closer to the plate, then tighten the nut. In this case, no additional adjustments are required - the pressure force does not affect the sensor response temperature. The sensor has a large margin for the angle of deflection of the plate, ensuring reliable breaking of the electrical circuit in the event of an accident.

It is not possible to ignite the igniter - the flame flares up and immediately goes out.

There may be the following possible reasons for such a defect:

- closed or faulty gas valve at the boiler inlet,
- the hole in the ignition nozzle is clogged, in this case it is enough to clean the nozzle hole with a soft wire;
- the pilot flame is blown out due to the strong air draft;
- low gas pressure at the boiler inlet.

The gas supply is cut off when the boiler is in operation:

- actuation of the draft sensor due to blockage of the chimney, in this case it is necessary to check and clean the chimney;
- the electromagnet is faulty, in this case the electromagnet is checked according to the above method;
- low gas pressure at the boiler inlet.

0:30 Attempt to fix the valve before repair
1:05 Measure the voltage of the thermocouple
1:35 Dismantling the automatic equipment AOGV
3:25 Repair (spring compression)
3:55 Assembly of AOGV automation
5:44 Checking the contact between valve coil and thermocouple
6:06 The result of the repair of AOGV automation and summing up

After filming the first video about the automation of the AOGV boiler, which you can see by clicking on the link below, I started restoring it. The most common problem in the AOGV automation is the poor operation of the solenoid valve and its false triggering and damping of the boiler. I had a similar situation and I solved it by soldering the coil itself, which I am talking about in the first video. During the repair of the AOGV automation unit, I accidentally rubbed shavings into the inside, which interfered with the tight fit of the gas valve, which led to a gas leak and I began to disassemble. After examining the insides of the AOGV automatics, I realized that if you have a working solenoid valve and a thermocouple but still do not properly hold the gas valve by the solenoid valve, then you can try to compress the gas valve spring, which in my case was a success. See how I did it.

Be sure to check out the first video: <>

Video Boiler automation AOGV DIY repair of Samodelkin Uman channel

Malfunctions of the Zhukovsky boiler AOGV-23 and their elimination

Pressing the start button fails to ignite the igniter, the flame on the igniter goes out, comes off

- The gas valve in front of the device is closed - Open the gas valve.

- The hole in the pilot nozzle is clogged - Clean the hole with a 0.3 mm diameter wire.

- The gas pressure is below 635 Pa (65 mm H2O) - Notify the gas utility.

- The presence of strong drafts in the room, leading to the separation of the flame at the igniter - Eliminate or reduce the drafts.

There is no spark between the spark plug electrode and the igniter

- Large gap between electrode and igniter - Adjust gap.

- Piezo ignition does not work - Replace piezo ignition.

When the start button is released (after holding it for at least a minute with the igniter on), the igniter flame goes out

- Oxidation of solder on the contacts at the junction of the electromagnet with the contact wire, weak pressing of the pins in the sockets - Unscrew the contact wire from the gas magnetic valve body, clean the contact with a needle file until it shines (remove the oxide film).

Screw the union back into the body. Remove the sockets from the pins, lightly squeeze the sockets with pliers. Place the sockets on the pins.

To avoid the destruction of the soldering of the contacts of the electromagnet and the wire of the contact, do not tighten the fitting of the wire when screwing it into the valve body of the gas magnetic valve.

- Traction sensor microswitch does not work - Replace microswitch.

- The thermocouple does not generate EMF, the end of the thermocouple has burned out (the value of the EMF of the thermocouple must be at least 20 mV) - Replace the thermocouple.

- The pilot flame does not touch the thermocouple - Position (bend) the thermocouple so that the flame washes over the end of the thermocouple (see Fig. 3).

- The safety thermostat is out of order - Replace the safety thermostat.

The flame of the burner and pilot is extinguished. Automatic shutdown of the gas supply during the operation of the gas boiler AOGV-23 ZhMZ. The thrust sensor is triggered

- Complete or partial obstruction of the chimney - Clean the chimney.

- The presence of strong drafts in the room, leading to the blowout of the flame at the igniter - Eliminate or reduce the drafts.

- The pressure has dropped below 635 Pa (65 mm H2O) - Notify the gas utility.

- To measure the gas pressure in the network, disconnect the pilot tube from the fitting on the valve body. Connect a measuring device to the nipple.

- Turn the adjusting knob, setting it to 50 - 60 ° C. Press the start button all the way, then release it 2 - 3 mm and after 8 - 12 seconds. take readings of the device.

The response time of the automatic equipment of the gas Zhukovsky boiler AOGV-23 in terms of thrust is less than 10 seconds. in the absence of draft in the chimney.

The response time of the automatic traction is more than 60 sec. in the absence of draft in the chimney.

- The draft sensor is not adjusted - Adjust the sensor, for which: unlock, unscrew (or tighten) the adjusting screw by 1-2 mm and re-lock it. Check the response time. Repeat the operation if necessary.

- The response time depends on the gap between the adjusting screw and the microswitch button. As the gap increases, the response time increases and vice versa.

The main burner does not turn off

- The "bellows-thermal bulb" is unpressurized - Replace the "bellows-thermal bulb"

- Thermostat is out of alignment - Adjust the thermostat to the response ranges of 50-90 ° C.

After shutdown, the burner does not turn on for a long time. The water in the tank is hot, the batteries are cold

- No circulation in the heating system - Eliminate reverse slopes in the heating system. Eliminate air cushions in the heating system.

The presence of a flame on the firing holes of the main burner when the thermostat is turned off

- Leakage of the thermostat valve due to dirt - Remove the front thermostat cover. Clean the valve plug and apply sealing grease.

Traction chopper door does not rotate or does not rotate

- Presence of dirt on the door axle - Remove dirt from the door axle and the seat for installing the axle into the traction chopper body.

Do-it-yourself gas boiler cleaning. AOGV Rostov
For many, over time, the heating of the house begins to warm up poorly. And people start to put the pump on. They don’t think that the heating of the house used to work normally. The pump will certainly give something, but not much. If the water is not heated enough, it will be cold at home. They think that the water pipes are clogged. This is not true. Imagine, let's say, 57 pipe by how many mm. will there be a plaque on it? This could be because the burner is soot and needs to be cleaned. And the jets of the gas boiler clogged. Gas does not flow well and does not heat well. This applies to any gas boiler. After a few years, the burner must be cleaned. The boiler has been standing for 20 years and no one has cleaned the AOGV burner. Below is a photo of how to clean, repair the burner with your own hands using the example of 23 Rostov AOGV.
At the very beginning, we close the gas with a common tap and the tap on the boiler must also be closed.

You don't need a lot of keys to repair a heating boiler. It is necessary to unscrew the two nuts, pictured below. Unscrew the nozzles for 5 or 6 keys. Prepare keys of different sizes. Nozzles can be of different sizes.Screwdriver, unscrew the igniter and ignition bolts. Naturally, at the beginning it is necessary to unscrew the cover fastening bolts, two side ones (in the back of the aogv). Use a screwdriver to unscrew the bolts in the back of the boiler, remove the top cover, there are clips, pull it up. You can pry off the top cover of the heating boiler with a screwdriver. Also, the front cover is attached with latches, we pry it with a screwdriver.
The ignition and thermocouple tubes of the gas boiler can be unscrewed. Or you don't have to unscrew it. If you will remove the igniter tube. This must be done carefully so as not to damage the gasket. Better to prepare a new gasket, I think I won't be able to buy it. You need to do it yourself. Paronite must be prepared in advance. The gasket can be cut by picking up, such as two die cut sizes. Outer, according to the inner size of the nut. And punch a hole in the middle. You can cut the gasket with scissors. If the gasket on the ignition tube is damaged, the heating will not work, the gas will poison.

There should be no flame near the square.
Before installing the burner in place, it is necessary to bend the plate towards the top. So that the burner goes back in better.
To remove the block with nozzles for cleaning soot, unscrew two bolts on each side. Remember how the block stood. When assembling, the thread for the square should be on the right side.
First, we remove the burners themselves for cleaning by unscrewing eight pins, four on each side. They do not need to be unscrewed to the end. They can be weakened a little. After installing the burner in place, these bolts must be tightened. Do not overtighten, the threads may be ripped off.

When assembling, it is necessary to check that the burner fits well into the stamping. So that there is no bias.
We unscrew the nozzles and clean them from soot. Blowing everything with air under pressure. The nozzles do not need to be unscrewed, they can be cleaned in place. It is better to remove and blow through everything with air separately. The nozzles can be cleaned carefully with a needle. My gas pressure is small, I did not widen the holes a lot with a needle.
If the heating was done not long ago, the plates can be removed. There is a spring. Clean everything.

If the boiler is many years old, there is nothing to remove. Plates break very often, from a simple touch. We just very carefully clean the grooves with a needle and blow it with compressed air. We blow and clean the burner itself from the back side. Where does the gas go.
We clean the guides and assemble the burner. Putting everything in place
We put a square, reeling in a gas tape fum. We collect everything, check with soapy water for leaks. Turning on the gas on the tap. We light it up and watch the flame burn. It should burn up. The next day we tighten the lock nut on the elbow and check everything for leaks again. Now you have cleaned the soot with your own hands, and your heating will work better. If you are not confident in your abilities and strengths, it is better to call a specialist. Gas is not a toy.