In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the aton boiler from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Maintenance of the gas boiler Aton Model AOGV 16E. It's time to clean the gas boiler. Subscribe to the channel: See also: Maintenance of the gas boiler Aton Model AOGV 16E <>
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Video Do-it-yourself maintenance of the gas boiler Aton Model AOGV 16E channel
The Ukrainian-made Aton gas boiler is a high-quality heating and water heater at an affordable price. The myths that the devices of this manufacturer are not of high quality and fail have no basis. The manufacturer equipped the gas appliance with a valve from a German, Italian, English manufacturer and other reliable elements. The repair of the Aton gas boiler is facilitated by a weak water pressure, improper operation, etc.
The device of the Ukrainian manufacturer (Fig. 1) meets every European requirement. It is healthy competition in all parameters and characteristics of manufacturers in Europe.
Rice. one Ukrainian-made device
smokeless with a wide choice of power;
compact with 8-12.5 kW of power;
chimney with 16-50 kW of power.
The parapet boiler (Fig. 2) has a power of 7-12.5 kW, which allows heating rooms without using a chimney. The unit has a sealed combustion chamber, with or without a hot supply circuit.
Video (click to play).
Distinctive features of devices:
three-way motor;
environmental Safety;
stainless burner.
Nitric oxide is reduced many times due to the presence of a three-way engine of combustion products. And the stainless steel from which the burner is made is very resistant to high temperatures. It promotes injection preparation of primary air-gas mixtures in the required proportion, as a result, the gas is maximally oxidized in the combustion chamber. The design of the gas appliance allows you to install it in any convenient place.
Rice. 2 Parapet gas appliance
To understand why the Aton boiler goes out, you need to familiarize yourself with the main reasons, of which there may be several. The gas boiler of the Ukrainian manufacturer has excellent European protection, which automatically stops the operation of the entire system in the event of the slightest malfunction. The fault that the wick goes out is more likely to lie on the gas pipeline, smoke exhaust system, hot water supply or electrical network, rather than on the heating device itself.
The main and most common problems associated with:
with a chimney;
with low gas pressure.
Many factors can cause the igniter to damp. But why? The device and its operation are influenced not only by external, but also by internal factors.
The problem may lie in the network, in the voltage drop. Therefore, a stabilizer is the best solution to this problem.
The igniter of a gas boiler can go out due to clogged nozzles, air duct filter, which can be cleaned. During prolonged use, in the igniter and the gap may be violated, and the wire contacts. Ignitor clearance problem needs a specialist call. But cleaning the filter, checking the current conductor is possible with your own hands.
The flame can be extinguished by coming off the burner. At the same time, the nozzle whistles and makes noise. The heating boiler goes out due to a breakdown in the draft sensor. If the contacts are oxidized, they must be cleaned.
The reasons why the boiler wick goes out:
The thermocouple is burnt out or dirty. Better to replace it.
Malfunction of the contacts of the automatic block. It is necessary to check, clean up.
The above situations can lead to the fact that the automation does not receive a notification from the thermocouple, the valve does not allow gas to pass through. This malfunction is also a preface to why the wick goes out or the burner of the unit goes out. Possible problems not only need to be eliminated, but it is also important to know how to turn on the Aton boiler after they have been eliminated.
If the boiler goes out, it is always scary and unpleasant. In severe frost, this malfunction will freeze the entire heating system and have serious consequences. The cause of the breakdown may lie in the banal wind blowing from the street through the chimney (reverse draft). This leads to the fact that the Aton gas boiler goes out, as the security system is triggered and turns off all the operation of the device.
Situations provoking a shutdown of the unit with an igniter can be associated with:
insufficient traction. The triggering of a certain sensor leads to its heating, the boiler turns off, and after the sensor cools down, the device starts working again.
excessive traction;
reverse thrust.
When designing the location of the unit, it is necessary to take into account whether the wind is blowing from the back of the house, whether it is strong. If the construction of the chimney was rejected from the project, then it should be modified, changed. The flue gas pipe must be insulated, 50 cm higher from the ridge of the roof (Fig. 3) with a diameter that is suitable for the specific capacity of the unit.
Rice. 3 Heater and correct chimney diagram
To prevent and eliminate the problem that the gas boiler goes out, it is blown out by the wind, it is worth creating a large traction:
Clean the flue gas pipe. Soot and soot could clog chimneys and masonry.
Increase the supply air as much as possible. In the boiler room, the air intake must be close to the floor and close to the appliance.
Before using the device, you should familiarize yourself with how to turn on the Aton boiler correctly:
The control handle is placed in the counterclockwise position.
Having pressed the control handle all the way, without releasing it, you need to press the ignition button.
After the appearance of a flame on the igniter, the control handle is held for up to 10 seconds.
The control handle is released and the presence of a flame on the igniter is checked.
If there is no flame, repeat steps 2-4.
The main burner is started by turning the control knob clockwise to the counter-sign position.
Complete shutdown of the gas supply to the burner and to the igniter requires turning the control handle clockwise to the position opposite to the sign.
The temperature of the device is adjusted clockwise (decrease) and counterclockwise (increase).
When the flame of the igniter and the burner is extinguished, the thermocouple cools down, the magnetic block does not hold the valve shutting off the gas supply.
When the gas valve is turned off and after eliminating the reasons that caused the unit to shut down, the device is ignited again according to points 2-5.
Many malfunctions of a gas boiler can be eliminated with your own hands, without resorting to expensive services of the gas service or no less expensive private specialists for the maintenance and adjustment of gas equipment. The only rule that we will immediately make a reservation about is that you need to understand what you are doing and for what purpose.
Seasonal maintenance of a gas boiler consists in cleaning it from contamination and checking its functionality. To access the boiler elements, it is necessary to dismantle the casing or casing. To do this, we decide on the method of its fastening, for different models of boilers this can be done in different ways. Most often these are several self-tapping screws and several latches in the upper part of the casing.
Having gained access to the internal parts of the boiler, we do not remove anything else when performing seasonal maintenance.Using a soft metal brush, a toothbrush and fine-grained sandpaper, we proceed to remove carbon deposits from all parts of the boiler:
heat exchanger;
burners;
igniter, if available.
We use the aforementioned tool wherever it is convenient, without especially leaning on the brush for metal. Next, blow out the collected dust with a compressor. You can use a rubber tube or a medical dropper tube by simply blowing into it and guiding the other end into the boiler.
Important! Any work on the boiler is carried out with the gas valve closed.
Using a thin awl or a strong needle, you need to clean all the holes on the burner and igniter, and then, after cleaning them again, for example, with a toothbrush, blow again. If there are overhead sensors, the places where they fit to the parts of the boiler should be lightly cleaned with emery paper and then wiped with a soft woolen cloth.
The ignition and flame control electrodes are well cleaned only with a woolen cloth, without the use of cleaning agents. If there are immersion temperature sensors, it is necessary to remove them from the sleeves, select the liquid present there from the sleeve, thoroughly clean the sleeve inside using a small metal brush or a loose piece of steel cable of a suitable size. After rough cleaning, the sleeve is cleaned with a cloth wound on a screwdriver, then the sleeve is filled two-thirds with machine oil and the sensor is installed.
After completing these works, the boiler is thoroughly vacuumed. In accessible places, dust and dirt are cleaned with a damp cloth. We put the trim in place. We check the presence of draft in the chimney by attaching a sheet the size of a notebook to the chimney opening, or by throwing a stream of smoke into the ignition ignition hole, the gas valve at the lowering to the boiler must be closed.
We check the seals and possible gas leaks using the soaping method. In the presence of normal draft, a test run of the boiler is carried out, which must be filled with a coolant. In parallel with the work on cleaning the boiler, it is visually inspected for mechanical damage and coolant leaks. At this point, the seasonal service can be considered complete.
It is produced with a solution of hydrochloric acid, purchased in the trade network and designed specifically for this purpose. Cleaning is carried out for the main heat exchangers of wall-mounted gas boilers and heat exchangers for hot water preparation. The channel cross-section of such heat exchangers is small, which is why they are susceptible to contamination with salt deposits.
Cleaning of the water jacket of floor-standing gas boilers, as a rule, is not performed. The heat exchanger must be removed for cleaning. To do this, remove the boiler casing, unscrew the supply pipes to the heat exchanger, after draining the water from the boiler.
We take out the heat exchanger from the boiler. Wear rubber gloves and use a plastic container to collect the used acid. The method is not complicated. Carefully pour the acid solution inside the heat exchanger until it is completely filled. In the event that the heat exchanger is clogged with scale, active foam will be released. Let us leave the heat exchanger for 10-15 minutes.
We drain the spent acid into a container and re-fill the heat exchanger with a new portion. We are waiting for the same ten minutes. We drain the solution and rinse the heat exchanger with running water. We put on a piece of hose on the nearest water tap and spill the heat exchanger with water. Let's fill the heat exchanger with the acid solution again. If there is no active foam generation, and when the heat exchanger is spilled with water, no significant resistance to the flow is visible, then the heat exchanger is flushed and you can reinstall it in the reverse order.
The method of cleaning the burner from carbon deposits has already been described above. However, with strong soot, it is not always possible to cope with only mechanical cleaning. For such cases, special chemicals are used.It makes no sense to recommend anything, all tools are quite effective. The cleaning method is reduced to applying the agent in the form of a solution to the surface to be cleaned, holding it for a certain time and then removing the exfoliated carbon deposits, usually mechanically. In more detail, you must familiarize yourself with the cleaning method by this or that tool when purchasing it.
In especially difficult cases, for example, when a heat carrier gets on the burner, it must be completely removed from the boiler, immersed in a cleaning solution for several hours. Then remove the burner, ignite in the flame of a portable gas burner. After another application of the solution, using a metal brush or a brush, remove the remaining carbon deposits.
The flue gas duct is checked using a mirror. We introduce the mirror into the channel at a slight angle. In the mirror, we should see a light at the end of the chimney. When performing this operation, it is convenient to use the so-called selfie stick, with a mirror attached to it.
To eliminate the leak, it is necessary to unpack the connection, clean the threads from the old tow and paint. Then, using FUM tape, thread sealing or thread lock, seal the connection again. Check the quality of work by filling the pipeline and the boiler with water.
All accessible areas of gas leaks must be washed with a soap solution or a special gas leak checker. The solution for soaping is prepared from laundry soap by shaving it into a container with warm water and stirring until a thick foam is obtained. If gas leaks, a soap bubble will blow out on the foam. The leak can be repaired in the same way as the water leak through the threaded connections.
Replacing a gas boiler burner will require more attention and care. The purchase of a new burner should be exactly the same model as the one installed on your boiler. Never install a burner not designed for your boiler model.
The beginning is the same - we remove the boiler casing. Having gained access to the burner, we carefully inspect the tubes and sensors connected to the burner. Their location should be remembered so that when assembling a new burner you do not confuse which one to connect to.
How to remove a gas burner. 1. Fixing the burner to the combustion chamber housing. 2. Wires for electrode igniter and flame sensor. 3. A branch pipe for supplying a gas-air mixture
Due to the wide variety of boiler models, it is impossible to give specific recommendations, but in any case, there will be:
a tube for supplying gas to the burner;
gas pressure sensor to the burner;
gas valve.
It is possible that there is a control tube from the draft sensor or electrical connection (wires) from the same draft sensor or temperature sensor. When using a burner of the same model as yours, remembering and connecting all the wires and tubes will not be difficult.
Replacing a horn burner installed in a wood-burning stove is even easier to cope with. We unscrew the screws of its fastening to the plate and two tubes: gas supply and gas supply to the igniter. We take out the old burner, insert a new one, screw on the tubes, tighten the burner mounting bolts.
It is not worth repairing the primitive automation of such a burner, the result may lead to unsafe operation of the boiler. The most difficult thing is to replace the burner of a wall-mounted gas boiler, stuffed with electronics and a large number of sensors. But do not panic here, the principle is the same: it is good to remember the location of all connections to the burner.
Trying to increase their importance, gas specialists say that such a burner should be "tied" to the boiler by flashing the electronic unit or by adjusting the boiler. The burner is just iron, which cannot be adjusted in any way. The settings may require combustion as such, but this is no longer relevant to the replacement of the burner itself.If the burner is made for the model of the boiler on which it is installed, then the combustion will be correct, however, provided that they did not try to regulate it on the old burner.
The need to replace the temperature sensor arises when, when setting a specific temperature mode of operation, the boiler either does not comply with it, or, even worse, goes into boiling mode, which can lead to rupture of the water jacket of the boiler or its heat exchanger.
Temperature sensors, according to the method of installation in the boiler, can be overhead and submersible. Clamp-on sensors are installed on the boiler pipes with clips that press the sensor against this pipe. Replacing them is quite simple. Disconnect the old one - put the new one. We put the chip (electrical contact) in place of the old one.
Immersion sensors can be of two types: direct immersion and located in a well filled with oil. When replacing the first, it is necessary to drain the water from the boiler, unscrew the sensor. Pay attention to how the threads were sealed at the sensor mount. This can be simply a tapered thread, using a thread lock (adhesive), gaskets, or O-rings. Sealing with flax and other materials is not used. Install a new sensor using the same sealing method.
