In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a Daewoo boiler from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Heating systems for country and country houses. Boilers, gas water heaters, water heaters - Repair, service, operation. Recommendations for assembly and installation.
Question: Where can I find a complete description of the trouble codes? (boiler Daewoo DGB160). Not all codes are described in the passport.
Answer: Here are the main error codes.
Indicators on the room controller / Check function / Check points
E1 - There is no water in the boiler - Pressure switch, cold water pipes, main board.
E3 - Boiling - Pump, temperature sensor, main PCB.
E5 - Excessive ignition voltage - Infrared sensor, printed circuit board.
E6 - Communication errors - Gas detector, printed circuit board.
E7 - Gas leak - Room console, pipes and connection wires, board.
E8 - Temperature sensor failure - Sensor shorted or permanently interrupted, printed circuit board.
EE - Fan Failure - Fan, PCB.
Question: Daewoo gasboiler 130 boiler. The E1 error is constantly displayed, the pressure on the sensor very often drops to 0, and the boiler turns off, but usually the water pressure in the system is normal (there are overshoots, but quite rarely). Can you please tell me what the problem might be?
Answer: If the pressure on the pressure gauge on the front wall of the boiler drops to zero, this usually happens on a cold heating system, then this is most likely insufficient pressure in the air chamber of the expansion tank.
To pump it, you need to remove the front cover, unscrew the 3 screws of the expansion tank mounting bracket, without this it is difficult to get close to the pumped-in nipple, and pump up the pressure with a car pump to 1.5 atmospheres. But before that, you need to relieve the water pressure in the heating system through the relief valve located at the bottom of the boiler. Then again pump up the water pressure to 1-2 atmospheres according to the index.
Video (click to play). |
Question: The Daewoo 130 boiler on the automatic air vent sits with a brass butt, on it there is a red thing with a thread (some kind of regulator, probably), there is no way to get an active leak from under it. What to do?
Answer: The first is to put a fine water filter on the return line (judging by the presence of debris that has blocked the shutter needle). The auto air vent of this line of boilers is easy to clean.
- We turn off the taps under the boiler and discharge water from it through the safety valve;
- Between the rubber hose and the combustion chamber we put pliers with a curved grip and, holding the air-vent directly behind the body, - weaken it (the stroke of the pliers is 5-7 mm, and then it is unscrewed by hand);
- Already holding the air vent in our hands, unscrew the lid with an adjustable wrench and the same pliers, clean - rinse the cavity, gently unclench the plastic hooks and release the float in order to clean the nose of the plastic needle under it. If necessary, you can adjust the needle spring by stretching it slightly.
- After we assemble everything in the reverse order, the only thing that needs to be changed is a gasket made of technical cardboard under the airplane.
Question: The Daewoo gasboiler DGB-160 ICH 19 kW boiler has been in operation for 5 years. This summer, the heating suddenly started to turn on for 20-30 minutes. What can be done?
Answer: Five years ago there was a series of ICH, where flow switching was set by a ball in the pump. There can be three options: development of a rubber seat in the pump, where the aforementioned ball sits (there may be an obstacle in the form of debris); problems with the board or with the remote control. If you made a mistake with the service life (3 years), and the MSC series boiler, then, most likely, the three-way valve has failed.
Question: The Daewoo DGB-250 ICH boiler suddenly began to turn off on its own. After shutdown, the control lamp on the control panel lights up. To restart it, you have to turn off and turn on the remote control, and also hit the boiler itself in the lower right part. What is the problem?
Answer: This error indicates a problem with the gas supply to the burner. It is possible that the gas valve needs to be replaced (first check the presence of gas, the pressure in the speaker and the terminals on the coils).
Question: I have a daewoo gasboiler dgb-200Ich boiler. Recently, I have been faced with the following problem: air comes out of the expansion tank. The nipple was replaced, but no changes occurred. Can you please tell me what to do in a specific situation?
Answer: Replace the tank or plug it, but put another one on the return line that matches your system.
Question: the daewoo gasboiler DGB-130 MSC boiler constantly turns on and off the temperature on the display, rises quickly and cools down quickly. What could be the reason?
Answer: Bad coolant flow. Checking the filters. In the case of hard water, the pipes clogged with scale and the primary heat exchanger. Loss of capacity of the pump condenser is possible.
Question: Daewoo DGB 160ICH boiler - the pressure began to drop when the boiler stopped by 2-3 points and it turns off. What is the reason and is an additional expansion tank needed in the water system of 200-250 liters?
Answer: The tank is needed, and the pressure drop depends on that. As an additional tank, 8l is enough, but 12-18l is better (before installing, do not forget to release the pressure in the tank to 1 atm).
Question: The daewoo gasboiler dgb 300 kfc boiler does not want to turn on for heating, but it works for hot water without problems. What could be the reason?
Answer: First - Pump (breakage of the heating winding). The second is the board (knocked out the pump control key for heating). The third is the control panel. In the first two cases, it is preceded by boiling and shutdown by the E3 error code.
Question: Daewoo boiler DGB 350 MSC gas boiler has been operating for the second year. It gives out hot water normally. When the heating was turned on this year, it began to work strangely: the preset temperature is 53, it picks up temperature 60 in 1 minute and turns off, the burner goes out, the pump is running. The temperature drops to 41 within 1 minute and the process repeats continuously. Gas pressure is normal, water pressure in the system is 1.2. There is an additional pump on the return line for warm floors. Heating area 270 sq.m, 2 floors. What is the problem?
Answer: Check the filters on the return - you have a jammed system.
Question: Daewoo gasboiler dgb-200msc boiler dbr-d21 remote control. The temperature setting is at 54 degrees, the pump is running, the water temperature drops to 42 degrees, the burner turns on, the temperature rises smoothly to 61 degrees, the burner turns off, the pump continues to work, then at 51 degrees the pump turns off and stands idle for 5 to 10 minutes.
Then the pump turns on, the water temperature drops to 42, the burner turns on and everything repeats. Worries about this periodic shutdown of the pump - is it a malfunction, am I mistaken somewhere in the settings, or is this the way it should be? If this is normal, then why is the pump shutting down?
Answer: This is the factory setting, but a different pump overrun mode can be selected if desired.
The following parameters can be set:
P0 - standard factory setting; within the range of the heater operation time set on the timer, when the burner is turned off, the pump is also turned off.
P5 - continuous operation of the pump, regardless of the burner operation.
P9 - within the range of the heater operation time set on the timer, the pump operates throughout this time.
Question: The problem with the daewoo OGB-200 ICH boiler has been in operation for half a year, at first everything was normal, now sometimes it turns itself off and there is no hot water or heating. After 2-3 hours it turns on itself and everything works again.
Answer: It is necessary to check the pressure in the heating system: sometimes a clogged manometer tube fixes the value and is misleading, a microswitch fails a little less often.
Question: I have a Daewoo DGB-130 ich boiler - a sound signal is given and an error E8 / E10 is displayed.
Answer: E8 - Temperature sensor failure. Temperature sensor shorted or open circuit, printed circuit board.A periodic defect can be calculated only if the NTC sensor or board is tossed for a while.
Question: I have a daewoo gasboiler DGB-200 ICH boiler, installed in 2007. There was a problem: error E4 (the chimney was checked - clean, there is draft). He wants to work only with the lid open and then it starts 3-4 times! What can you see besides the chimney?
Answer: There is a problem with the air-gas mixture. It is necessary to start by checking the gas inlet pressure in statics / dynamics and min./max. on the burner. In the combustion cycle, if the flame is yellow due to the closure of the exhaust (overpressure), then the ignition voltage becomes less than 0.3V (check E2). If the number of revolutions in min. If the fan becomes more than 2780 (check E4), then the state is interpreted by the system as closing the exhaust.
After that, the system immediately switches to the blanking cycle and the fan switches to the highest speed for 10 seconds (2860 rpm). Also, when checking E2, if the flame voltage is more than 4.7 or when checking E4, the fan speed is below 2780, then an automatic retreat is performed and the ignition cycle is set.
Question: Daewoo DGB-100 MSC boiler. The problem is this: the infrared sensor does not detect the presence of a flame in the chamber. Apparently the sensitivity has decreased. The boiler works only when I point the sensor at the lamp. Is it possible to adjust the sensor sensitivity on the board? Or will you have to change it?
Answer: Symptoms: the boiler tries to ignite three times, after which the remote control starts beeping and the temperature indicator flashes (top right).
Diagnosis: the inside of the chamber is lined with heat-insulating plates, on the right side (where the window for the sensor is) the plate slid down 2-3mm and half-covered the window.
Diagnostics: the sensor rotates in the socket 90 degrees (the lower part from itself), is pulled out. look with a mirror.
Repair: remove the front cover of the camera (unscrew the lower screw on the front window, without this it cannot be removed) and replace the heat-insulating plate. In order not to move out again, put plates on the lower stops to increase the support area.
Many malfunctions of a gas boiler can be eliminated with your own hands, without resorting to expensive services of the gas service or no less expensive private specialists for the maintenance and adjustment of gas equipment. The only rule that we will immediately make a reservation about is that you need to understand what you are doing and for what purpose.
Seasonal maintenance of a gas boiler consists in cleaning it from contamination and checking its functionality. To access the boiler elements, it is necessary to dismantle the casing or casing. To do this, we decide on the method of its fastening, for different models of boilers this can be done in different ways. Most often these are several self-tapping screws and several latches in the upper part of the casing.
Having gained access to the internal parts of the boiler, we do not remove anything else when performing seasonal maintenance. Using a soft metal brush, a toothbrush and fine-grained sandpaper, we proceed to remove carbon deposits from all parts of the boiler:
- heat exchanger;
- burners;
- igniter, if available.
We use the aforementioned tool wherever it is convenient, without particularly leaning on the brush for metal. Next, blow out the collected dust with a compressor. You can use a rubber tube or a tube from a medical dropper by simply blowing into it and guiding the other end of it into the boiler.
Important! Any work on the boiler is carried out with the gas valve closed.
Using a thin awl or a strong needle, you need to clean all the holes on the burner and igniter, and then, after cleaning them again, for example, with a toothbrush, blow again. If there are overhead sensors, the places where they fit to the parts of the boiler should be lightly cleaned with emery paper and then wiped with a soft woolen cloth.
The ignition and flame control electrodes are well cleaned only with a woolen cloth, without the use of cleaning agents.If there are immersion temperature sensors, it is necessary to remove them from the sleeves, select the liquid present there from the sleeve, thoroughly clean the sleeve inside using a small metal brush or a loose piece of steel cable of a suitable size. After rough cleaning, the sleeve is cleaned with a cloth wound on a screwdriver, then the sleeve is filled two-thirds with machine oil and the sensor is installed.
After completing these works, the boiler is thoroughly vacuumed. In accessible places, dust and dirt are cleaned with a damp cloth. We put the trim in place. We check the presence of draft in the chimney by attaching a sheet the size of a notebook to the chimney opening, or by throwing a stream of smoke into the ignition ignition hole, the gas valve at the lowering to the boiler must be closed.
We check the seals and possible gas leaks using the soaping method. In the presence of normal draft, a test run of the boiler is carried out, which must be filled with a coolant. In parallel with the work on cleaning the boiler, it is visually inspected for mechanical damage and coolant leaks. At this point, the seasonal service can be considered complete.
It is produced with a solution of hydrochloric acid, purchased in the trade network and designed specifically for this purpose. Cleaning is carried out for the main heat exchangers of wall-mounted gas boilers and heat exchangers for hot water preparation. The channel cross-section of such heat exchangers is small, which is why they are susceptible to contamination with salt deposits.
Cleaning of the water jacket of floor-standing gas boilers, as a rule, is not performed. The heat exchanger must be removed for cleaning. To do this, remove the boiler casing, unscrew the supply pipes to the heat exchanger, after draining the water from the boiler.
We take out the heat exchanger from the boiler. Wear rubber gloves and use a plastic container to collect the used acid. The method is not complicated. Carefully pour the acid solution inside the heat exchanger until it is completely filled. In the event that the heat exchanger is clogged with scale, active foam will be released. Let us leave the heat exchanger for 10-15 minutes.
We drain the spent acid into a container and re-fill the heat exchanger with a new portion. We are waiting for the same ten minutes. We drain the solution and rinse the heat exchanger with running water. We put on a piece of hose on the nearest water tap and spill the heat exchanger with water. Let's fill the heat exchanger with the acid solution again. If there is no active foam generation, and when the heat exchanger is spilled with water, no significant resistance to the flow is visible, then the heat exchanger is flushed, and you can reinstall it in the reverse order.
The method of cleaning the burner from carbon deposits has already been described above. However, with strong soot, it is not always possible to cope with only mechanical cleaning. For such cases, special chemicals are used. It makes no sense to recommend anything, all tools are quite effective. The cleaning method is reduced to applying the agent in the form of a solution to the surface to be cleaned, holding it for a certain time and then removing the exfoliated carbon deposits, usually mechanically. In more detail, you must familiarize yourself with the cleaning method by this or that tool when purchasing it.
In especially difficult cases, for example, when a heat carrier gets on the burner, it must be completely removed from the boiler, immersed in a cleaning solution for several hours. Then remove the burner, ignite in the flame of a portable gas burner. After another application of the solution, using a metal brush or a brush, remove the remaining carbon deposits.
The flue gas duct is checked using a mirror. We introduce the mirror into the channel at a slight angle. In the mirror, we should see a light at the end of the chimney.When performing this operation, it is convenient to use the so-called selfie stick, with a mirror attached to it.
To eliminate the leak, it is necessary to unpack the connection, clean the threads from the old tow and paint. Then, using FUM tape, thread sealing or thread lock, seal the connection again. Check the quality of work by filling the pipeline and the boiler with water.
All accessible areas of gas leaks must be washed with a soap solution or a special gas leak checker. The solution for soaping is prepared from laundry soap by shaving it into a container with warm water and stirring until a thick foam is obtained. If gas leaks, a soap bubble will blow out on the foam. The leak can be repaired in the same way as the water leak through the threaded connections.
Replacing a gas boiler burner will require more attention and care. The purchase of a new burner should be exactly the same model as the one installed on your boiler. Never install a burner not designed for your boiler model.
The beginning is the same - we remove the boiler casing. Having gained access to the burner, we carefully inspect the tubes and sensors connected to the burner. Their location should be remembered so that when assembling a new burner you do not confuse which one to connect to.
How to remove a gas burner. 1. Fixing the burner to the combustion chamber housing. 2. Wires for electrode igniter and flame sensor. 3. A branch pipe for supplying a gas-air mixture
Due to the wide variety of boiler models, it is impossible to give specific recommendations, but in any case, there will be:
- a tube for supplying gas to the burner;
- gas pressure sensor to the burner;
- gas valve.
It is possible that there is a control tube from the draft sensor or electrical connection (wires) from the same draft sensor or temperature sensor. When using a burner of the same model as yours, remembering and connecting all the wires and tubes will not be difficult.
Replacing a horn burner installed in a wood-burning stove is even easier to cope with. We unscrew the screws of its fastening to the plate and two tubes: gas supply and gas supply to the igniter. We take out the old burner, insert a new one, screw on the tubes, tighten the burner mounting bolts.
It is not worth repairing the primitive automation of such a burner, the result may lead to unsafe operation of the boiler. The most difficult thing is to replace the burner of a wall-mounted gas boiler, stuffed with electronics and a large number of sensors. But do not panic here, the principle is the same: it is good to remember the location of all connections to the burner.
Trying to increase their importance, gas specialists say that such a burner should be "tied" to the boiler by flashing the electronic unit or by adjusting the boiler. The burner is just iron, which cannot be adjusted in any way. The settings may require combustion as such, but this is no longer relevant to the replacement of the burner itself. If the burner is made for the model of the boiler on which it is installed, then the combustion will be correct, however, provided that they did not try to regulate it on the old burner.
The need to replace the temperature sensor arises when, when setting a specific temperature mode of operation, the boiler either does not comply with it, or, even worse, goes into boiling mode, which can lead to rupture of the water jacket of the boiler or its heat exchanger.
Temperature sensors, according to the method of installation in the boiler, can be overhead and submersible. Clamp-on sensors are installed on the boiler pipes with clips that press the sensor against this pipe. Replacing them is very simple. Disconnect the old one - put the new one. We put the chip (electrical contact) in place of the old one.
Immersion sensors can be of two types: direct immersion and located in a well filled with oil. When replacing the first, it is necessary to drain the water from the boiler, unscrew the sensor.Pay attention to how the threads were sealed at the sensor mount. This can be simply a tapered thread, using a thread lock (adhesive), gaskets, or O-rings. Sealing with flax and other materials is not used. Install a new sensor using the same sealing method.
When replacing the sensors installed in the sleeves, there is no need to drain the water from the boiler. After loosening the fixing nut, pull out the sensor, check for the presence of oil in the sleeve, install a new sensor, fixing it with a nut. The simplest version of such a sensor is an alcohol thermometer installed in the sleeve for visual monitoring of the temperature in the boiler.
Modern gas boilers are quite sophisticated technological equipment. With proper care and proper handling, the gas boiler will serve for a long time without any interruptions. However, even the most expensive and functional equipment has its own resource, after the exhaustion of which all sorts of malfunctions begin to appear.
DIY gas boiler repair
Knowing the main causes of malfunctions and the procedure for eliminating them, you can repair your gas boiler with your own hands. This is a very painstaking, responsible, but in most cases relatively easy job.
Contents of step-by-step instructions:
First of all, it is necessary to establish why any malfunctions may occur in the operation of gas heating boilers. A number of different factors can lead to problems.
Modern gas boilers are equipped with various automation equipment. These funds, in turn, are powered by electricity. And, despite the fact that the 21st century is already in the yard and systems for the use of alternative energy sources are being actively developed around the world, the problem of stability of power grids remains relevant for many regions, especially for remote villages and all kinds of summer cottages.
A sudden power outage or a strong surge in electricity is one of the main enemies of any modern gas boiler.
To avoid all the accompanying troubles, buy a quality stabilizer in advance. Do not spare money to buy this device - there is little sense from cheap models, so it is better to immediately allocate funds to purchase a good stabilizer from a well-known manufacturer. Be sure that in the event of a breakdown of the automation, you will spend much more money on its repair and replacement.
At home, wall-mounted models of gas boilers are often used. Such devices are simultaneously responsible for both space heating and hot water preparation.
The design of wall-hung boilers includes a flow-through heat exchanger. Low-quality hard water with various impurities is the main enemy of the heat exchanger of a gas boiler. At the same time, under the influence of low-quality water, the heat exchanger can fail in just one season.
Install special filters to prevent such damage. The best option is a complete water purification system. With it, your boiler will work as long as possible, and using purified water is much safer for health.
Any knowledgeable person will tell you: only qualified specialists should be engaged in the installation and piping of gas heating equipment.
Even the slightest mistakes at the stages of installation and connection of equipment can lead to irreversible consequences. For example, an incorrectly executed piping in the case of a cast-iron gas boiler more powerful than 50 kW will lead to the fact that at low temperatures the unit will simply split.
If you are not an experienced gas operator, entrust the boiler installation to professionals.
Therefore, if you are not an experienced gas operator, entrust the installation of the boiler to professionals - this way you will save yourself from many problems in the future.
Unfavorable weather conditions can also lead to the appearance of many different problems. In frosty winters, people turn on the heating at almost full capacity. This leads to a significant decrease in pressure in the gas pipeline system. As a result, boilers cannot fully realize their potential.
You will not be able to solve this problem on your own - you still cannot explain to your neighbors that by their actions they only aggravate the situation. As a solution to the problem, you can install an additional boiler that runs on a different fuel.
Automatic solid fuel coal-fired boiler with hopper
A modern gas boiler is a complex and potentially dangerous system. The main danger of such units is the risk of a gas explosion in the event of improper handling of the equipment or untimely elimination of various malfunctions.
Various kinds of automation are responsible for maintaining the operation of the gas boiler at an optimal level. An inexperienced user is often unable to understand its device. Therefore, it is better to immediately invite specialists to troubleshoot serious problems.
On your own, you can try to eliminate only visible damage and various contaminants that have led to the failure of the pipe, chimney and other parts of the boiler.
Typical malfunctions of gas boilers
There are a number of typical problems that you can fix yourself in most cases. Problems will also be listed, in the event of which you can only protect yourself before the arrival of a specialist.
If a distinct smell of gas or smoke appears in the room, immediately turn off the boiler and leave the room, opening it for ventilation.
Gas boiler functionality diagram
Call a professional immediately. Trying to solve the gas leak problem on your own without the necessary skills is extremely dangerous and unreasonable.
If the flame sensor or the gas supply pipe breaks down, turn off the boiler, close all gas valves and let the unit cool down completely.
Return to the area after a while to check for the smell of gas. If everything is in order with the draft, try to turn on the boiler again. If there is no thrust, immediately call a repairman.
Overheating is one of the most common problems in modern gas boilers. The reason for this may be a malfunction of the automation equipment or a clogged heat exchanger.
It is impossible to cope with the repair of automation without the appropriate knowledge.
You can also clean the heat exchanger with your own hands. The most common materials for the manufacture of heat exchangers are copper and stainless steel. There is usually no problem cleaning them, but be extremely careful anyway.
Primary heat exchanger for wall mounted gas boiler Beretta
According to the recommendations of manufacturers, heat exchangers should be cleaned of soot every few years (each manufacturer indicates a specific interval in the instructions for their equipment).
Primary heat exchanger (heating circuit) of the gas boiler Rinnai SMF
To clean the heat exchanger, simply remove it and clean it thoroughly with a metal brush. In the case of a copper heat exchanger, it is best to replace the brush with a metal sponge used for washing dishes.
The problematic place of fans is their bearings. If the fan of your boiler stops developing the set number of revolutions, try to eliminate the problem as soon as possible.
Fan (3311806000) for Daewoo gas boiler
To do this, remove the back of the fan, take out the stator and lubricate the bearings.Machine oil is fine for lubrication, but it is best to use a higher quality carbon compound with heat-resistant properties if possible.
Fan RLA97 (Aa10020004) for gas boiler Electrolux
Also, an interturn short circuit can lead to problems with the fan. Only a specialist can cope with the elimination of this malfunction. Return the stator for repair to replace the winding, or immediately replace the faulty unit with a new device.
Gas boiler chimney diagram
Often, excessive clogging of the coaxial chimney leads to the appearance of various malfunctions in the operation of a gas heating boiler.
Remove the chimney and thoroughly clean all of its components from soot. So you will not only return the previous level of efficiency of the unit, but also significantly increase the efficiency of the boiler.
The boiler can shut down spontaneously for several reasons. This usually happens due to a malfunction of the combustion sensor. This problem, in turn, most often leads to contamination of the gas pipe.
Draft sensor 87 ° C for Thermona boiler
Remove the branch pipe, rinse it thoroughly with water, clean it with a cotton swab and blow it off the remaining moisture. Put the pipe back in place and try to turn on the boiler. If it doesn't help, call the wizard.
No wonder they say: the best repair is prevention. Gas boilers require annual preventive maintenance, which must be carried out before the start of the heating season.
Whenever possible, maintenance should be carried out twice a year, before and after the heating season.
Check all the previously discussed boiler elements for their serviceability. Follow the preventive maintenance recommendations given by the manufacturer in the instructions specific to your boiler. Eliminate any malfunctions that arise in time, if possible.
Remember! A gas boiler is a potentially hazardous equipment. Incorrect use and untimely troubleshooting can lead to irreparable consequences. Therefore, be careful and do not engage in any repair work if you doubt your ability and correctness of action. Otherwise, follow the instructions provided.