DIY Siberia boiler repair

In detail: do-it-yourself Siberium boiler repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The Siberia 11 gas floor boiler with Euroset 630 automation is in operation. Recently there was such a malfunction in its operation: if I turn off the main burner, then the pilot burner turns off simultaneously with it. I checked the thermocouple and the solenoid valve - everything is in order with them. I have not installed a draft sensor. Observing the problem, I found out that when the main burner goes out, the pilot just blows off the fire. The gas supply is not interrupted at this moment - I checked (if, immediately after extinction, the gas is ignited manually, the burner starts to work quietly). The flame itself on both burners is blue. I spent three days troubleshooting this problem and finally succeeded. It turned out that a lot of water (about 10 liters) had accumulated in the chimney.
After I poured it out, everything began to work fine. The chimney itself goes out of the house onto the loggia, and then it leads to the street.

You need to insulate the chimney.

In the floor-standing boiler Siberia 17 with eurosit 630 automation, from the moment of connection, there were problems with the automation. The bottom line is as follows. When firing up, when the valve is open, the wick lights up, but if you just put it in the "work" position, the fire disappears. Experts could not fix the problem and came up with the following. A spoon was placed under the valve, thereby fixing it in a permanently open position. This is how the unit works, but another problem remains. Gas constantly seeps through the two holes located under the burners. Its scent is strongly felt throughout the house. Is it possible to somehow fix it without changing all the automation?

Video (click to play).

Basically, gas shouldn't get into the vents if your machine has good draft, so check it first. It is also worth checking if the flame of the pilot burner reaches the thermocouple. Perhaps she should come under fire more.

Installed a Siberia model with automatic 630 evrosit, for some unknown reason, it turns off arbitrarily. Installed by my parents, and when I came to help, I saw the following. The wick ignites normally. Then, after I set mode 1, it works as it should for about half an hour, and then it dies.

In this mode, the main burner should not go out at all. You should clean the igniter of any dirt.

My gas boiler Siberia (euroset 630) is malfunctioning in mode 4, because after reaching 65C, it turns off completely.

Your pilot burner turns off the main burner, and this is the essence of the problem. In this case, the position of the regulator does not affect anything.

The work of the burner, for some reason I do not understand, depends on the direction of the wind. At certain points, the flame begins to burn unevenly, and, sometimes, goes out. The problem needs to be urgently resolved, since in the winter, constant work on the "candle" is wrong. I tried to protect the chimney myself, even installed a special fungus, but it did not help. I am already thinking about increasing the gas flow to the burner, but I do not know how to do it. The device operates on automatic 630 eurosit.

If your flame is blown out through the sight glass, then you should increase the air supply to the boiler.

The automation of the gas floor boiler Siberia 23 (eurosit 630) began to malfunction. If we compare the temperature of the water in the device at the moment when the automation turned it off with the thermometer readings on the handle, there will be a strong difference (up to 10 degrees). The device heats water above 55C in only one mode (if you set position 7). It is in this mode that a significant increase in the burner flame is observed, and it gives rise to heating. Cannot set the maximum gas flow.Changes can only be seen in mode 7. How can this be fixed?

Repair or change automation.

Two years ago, a Siberia TopLine 24 double-circuit boiler was installed in our private house. The first winter it worked in a gentle mode, as construction continued and the temperature in it did not rise above 50C. In the spring, the renovation was completed, and we began to live in the house permanently. When the second heating season came, I noticed an instability in the pressure in the heating system. It is constantly required to either dump the surplus, then tighten up the missing. Is there any way to fix this? It is better to configure everything once, or can install additional equipment, than to constantly tweak something in the system. Pressure problems occur like this. The pressure starts to drop when the hot water flow is high. Respectively
the machine stops. Pressure pumping required. You set it to the required value, the device starts working, and the pressure continues to rise until it stops again. Then you need to bleed off the surplus. After normalization of pressure at the level of 1.5 - 1.8, the unit starts to work stably. A similar thing happens if you want to increase the water temperature, for example, up to 70C. Prolonged power outages also cause a similar problem. I would like to understand how this can be fixed.

You have an expansion tank in your system. Its cavity is divided into two parts by a special membrane. One holds excess pressure, and the second is filled with water (also under pressure). With proper operation, this membrane divides the device into equal parts, then there are no problems in operation, since it is the membrane that compensates for all pressure drops. Excess air is removed automatically through a special valve. Please note that if water flows from this valve, the expansion tank is no longer usable and needs to be replaced. In your case, the expansion tank, for some reason, does not extinguish pressure changes when the water temperature changes. All the cases you described are connected with this. It is possible that your expansion tank is simply too small for your needs and an additional, or new, larger volume is required.

Currently, my house is heated using a natural circulation system, a KChM boiler of 5-21 kW. I use coal, but I plan to switch to gas by winter. In this regard, the question arose which is more rational. Upgrade to KChM by installing a burner in it. Or purchase and install a gas boiler Siberia 23. In any case, I plan to supply DHW through an indirect boiler.

Siberia is identical to AOGV, only designed to operate on gas. If we compare KChM, it is more economical. Although there were cases when old steel units consumed less or as much gas as modern ones. But more often than not, the money gain is noticeable. But you must take into account that for the correct operation of Siberia 23, a very good chimney must be installed. And KChM, if required, can be used again on coal. You will have to evaluate all the pros and cons and choose something yourself. Personally, I would install a modern appliance with the necessary modernization of the chimney.

I want to install a system from a Siberia 17 floor-standing boiler with forced circulation of the coolant. Interested in such a moment, what will happen to him if for some reason a failure occurs (for example, there is no electricity) and the pump that provides circulation turns off? Will there be a regular shutdown when the temperature in it reaches the set one? Or is it possible some kind of emergency way of stopping its operation and the shutdown will only be due to overheating? Is it possible to connect a pump via a thermostat, as an option, Valtec VT. AC601.0? After all, if the device is turned off in a non-emergency mode, then you can stop its operation by turning off the pump. The temperature sensor sends a signal to the pump, which turns off when the room is warm enough.Which in turn turns off the device. Or will this method of connection lead to inevitable damage to the equipment? What happens to the unit if the automation stops working as expected? Is it possible to install any redundant circuits so that the gas is
guaranteed to be turned off in case of breakdown?

Will the Siberia 11 gas boiler be able to provide heat for a 100 sq. m.? Can an indirect heating boiler be installed in the system? Will it stand up normally, or is it a violation of the operating conditions?

This model has enough power to adequately heat a given volume. But there are nuances with the boiler. The device itself does not care what equipment is installed in the system. Moreover, your main water consumption will go to the DHW system. Simply, if you can find a suitable boiler for the size. Your unit is not very powerful and the boiler is 100 sq. m. it will heat up for a very long time (for example, 30 kW heats from 10C to 60 for about 10 minutes, and in your case, only 11 kW). If 100 liters is enough for all your needs, then you can try to install a boiler, otherwise you need to think about other options.

I have a Siberia 17 floor-standing boiler installed. Is it possible to replace the Eurosit 630 automation installed on it with a 710 minisit? Reading the instructions, I came across the burner flame modulation function, and I was very interested in it. Will this work in my case? And I also have a question about gas consumption. Heated area 150 sq. m. (100 sq. m. the house itself and 50 sq. m. insulated attic). The heating system is not yet permanent. So far, 4 aluminum batteries have been installed in the premises of the house and an additional one is in the attic. The weather outside is a slight minus (up to 04), and the house heats up no higher than 15C, with a gas consumption of 60 cubic meters in 4 days. Is this normal, or can something be changed?

To optimize gas consumption, you need to carry out the correct insulation of the house, and calculate and install exactly as many radiators as required. An improperly mounted system can also be affected. Feel all batteries to determine the problem. If uneven heating is observed, especially if they are hotter closer to the unit, then look for an error. Also, your current automation also has a modulation function.

What kind of automation should be installed on Siberia for its most correct operation?

Usually on Siberia, 630 eurosit (up to 23 kW), 710 Minisit (up to 35 kW) and 820 Nova (up to 50 kW) are installed. Nova has one more useful function, a room thermostat can be connected to it. All of them can modulate the combustion process. Good value for money is also an important advantage. Eurosit 630 is operated by only one control handle, which can be used to activate the control solenoid valve and adjust the temperature mode. It also allows you to turn off the device, if required.

To provide the house, I installed a Siberia 17 model with a water heater. The heating system is well implemented, all rooms are warming up, there are no problems. With DHW, things are much worse. We have installed a heater for 80 liters and this amount was enough. In winter, we set the temperature on the unit to 65-70C, and everything was fine. There was enough water. In the summer, the temperature on it had to be reduced, and now it does not have time to heat the water in the boiler - there is a catastrophic lack of water. How can problems be solved? Will installing an additional tank help?

To solve this problem, a tap is required in the heating system. Shut it off and heat the water in the boiler before actively using the water in the hot water supply. If you cannot connect a speaker, then using it is the most optimal solution. The pump and the supply valve itself are closed. 20 minutes of operation of the device only for heating and you can take hot water.

Do you think Siberia Top Line 24 requires an inventory generator or can you use a regular one? And another question: are there any nuances of grounding?

We would recommend installing a regular one, as when installing an inventory, some difficulties may arise.

Good afternoon. I can not find in Siberia 23 the function of setting the upper limit for heating water. My device gives out a maximum of 70C (temperature of the supplied water is 7C). The instructions say that it should give 85-90C.

Check that the gas supply pressure is correct. Also check the gas valve, it tends to get clogged. There is also such a technique: you need to turn off the water supply to the heating system and wait until the unit heats up to the required temperature. In the future, already with an open heating system, it must maintain the set temperature.

I can't figure out how the modulation mode works on the minisit 710 automatics. What is the relationship between the set temperature (on the thermostat) and the temperature at which the gas supply starts to decrease? Does changing the maximum temperature setting affect the modulation range itself?

The preset range from modulation start to throttle off is 13C.

To heat the house, a Siberia 17 boiler was installed. Now we have built a bathhouse and we want to make an additional circuit from it for heating it. Will this project work? I do not want to connect the bath to the main circuit, since it will require significant reconstruction of all pipes in the house. The size of the residential building is 100 sq. m (mounted open two-pipe heating system with steel pipes and cast-iron radiators). To it I add a bath with an attic with a total area of ​​70 sq. m.

Your machine is not capable of supporting this area. A more powerful apparatus is required.

Image - DIY Siberia boiler repair

According to safety rules, the repair of all equipment dangerous in operation, which includes gas heating units, must be carried out by specially trained qualified specialists. However, in remote areas, the arrival of a specialized repair team can be expected for a very long time. Therefore, in case of emergency, if the matter does not concern automation and the gas pipe, you can do it yourself and repair the gas boiler yourself.

Modern gas heating systems are complex systems. Control of their work is carried out using a whole range of automatic devices, which must be familiarized with before starting an independent repair of gas boilers.

The main elements of the security group:

  • Draft sensors designed for 75 0 C. This device makes it possible to monitor the state of the chimney. If the normal flue gas discharge fails, the temperature rises and the sensor is triggered. Optimally, in addition to the traction sensor, a gas alarm is acquired.
  • The monostat protects turbocharged gas units from impaired removal of combustion products due to a clogged chimney or heat exchanger.
  • The limit thermostat is designed to control the temperature of the heating medium in the heating system. When the water boils, the overheating sensor turns off the device.
  • When the flame is detected, the flame control electrode switches off the operation of the heating unit.
  • A blast valve is used to control pressure. With an increase in pressure above the critical value, a portioned discharge of excess coolant occurs.

Image - DIY Siberia boiler repair

Attention! The wear of the stuffing box leads to a constant flow of the coolant from the valve. The remedy is to replace the valve.

Various components of the heating system can fail and for various reasons. It can be - low-quality parts, violation of the requirements for operation, sharp blows to the component parts of the unit.

  • The most common reason for the failure of volatile devices is a configuration failure. Do-it-yourself gas boiler repair should begin by checking that the settings are correctly installed and the presence of open contacts. When troubleshooting, the unit is set to the "Winter" mode and the setting is set to the maximum heating temperature.
  • If the pump does not work, then either you just need to replace the cable, or you will have to change the pump itself.
  • If the burner is not supplied with gas, then it is necessary to make sure that the gas valve is open, the gas line is not clogged, the voltage supply is in order.If the problem persists, after all these steps, you will most likely have to change the electronic board.

The shutdown of parapet boilers in severe frosts can be caused by the appearance of ice on the chimney. The formation of an ice crust is explained by the content of water vapor in the exhaust combustion products. As a result of freezing of ice build-up and obstruction of the exit of flue gases, the device is automatically turned off and attempts to turn it on again will be unsuccessful.

Advice! In this case, the automation of the boiler equipment does not fail, and to resume the operation of the heating equipment, it is enough to remove the ice from the smoke grate. In order to avoid such stoppages of the units, it is necessary to periodically inspect the chimney in severe frosts.

Do-it-yourself gas boiler repair is not always possible and only in cases of visible and simple malfunctions. Complex breakdowns can be corrected efficiently and reliably only by specialists with the necessary knowledge and equipment.