DIY Aveo gearbox repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the Aveo gearbox from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

You will need: keys "for 10", "for 13", "for 19", "for 24", a set of hex keys, flat-blade screwdrivers (two), round-nose pliers, circlip remover, bearing remover, hammer, barbs, chisel.

1. Remove the transmission from the car (see Removing and installing the transmission). Remove any dirt from it and wash the outside.

2. Remove the speedometer drive together with the vehicle speed sensor, if any (see Checking and replacing sensors in the engine management system).

3. Loosen the reversing light switch ...

5. After unscrewing the bolts securing the body of the gearshift mechanism, remove the mechanism ...

The three bolts of the gearshift housing are not visible in the photo.

6. ... and the gasket underneath.

7. Using a screwdriver to pry the spring clip of the driver of the V-th gear shift fork ...

10. Remove the clutch slave cylinder assembly with the clutch release bearing (see Replacing the clutch slave cylinder with the release bearing) and the rubber O-ring installed under the cylinder.

11. Remove the adapter of the hydraulic clutch release (see Replacement of the pipeline of the hydraulic clutch release).

12. Remove the intermediate tube of the hydraulic drive of the clutch release (see Replacement of the pipeline of the hydraulic drive of the release of the clutch).

13. Remove the nine bolts securing the rear transmission cover.

14. Using a screwdriver, pry off the edge of the cover in the area of ​​the specially designed lug, separate the cover from the gasket and remove the cover.

15. Remove the cover gasket.

Video (click to play).

Replace the gasket of the rear cover of the transmission with a new one each time the connection is disassembled, as a used crimped gasket may not ensure the tightness of the seal during reassembly.

16. Remove the 5th gear synchronizer retaining ring.

17. Remove the two bolts securing the bracket for the 5th gear shift fork ...

18. ... and remove the bracket assembly with the fork.

19. Remove the crackers from the fork.

Replace worn-out crackers during assembly with new ones.

20. Install a universal puller on the V gear synchronizer sleeve ...

21. ... and press the coupling assembly with the hub off the shaft.

22. Remove the synchronizer blocking ring ...

23. ... the driven gear of the V transfer ...

24. ... and needle bearing.

25. Remove the V transfer pinion retaining ring.

26. Install the universal puller on the drive pinion of the V transfer ...

27. ... and press the gear off the shaft.

28. Remove the locking ring from the output shaft ...

29. ... and remove the two persistent half rings.

30. Remove the five bolts securing the intermediate casing to the gearbox housing ...

31. ... separate the intermediate crankcase from the crankcase by hammer blows through a wooden spacer supported on a special crankcase lug ...

32. ... and remove the intermediate casing together with the shafts.

33. Remove the crankcase gasket by separating it with a sharp knife.

Replace the intermediate casing gasket with a new one each time the connection is disassembled, as a used crimp gasket may not provide a tight seal when reassembled.

34. Unscrew ten bolts securing the lower gearbox cover and remove the cover together with the gasket.

35. Separate the gasket from the cover.

Replace the gasket of the lower cover of the transmission with a new one each time the connection is disassembled, as a used crimped gasket may not ensure the tightness of the seal during reassembly.

36. Mark the position of the differential bearing adjusting nut in relation to the transmission case.

37. Remove the adjusting nut retainer bolt ...

39.... push the adjusting nut out of place with the mounting paddle as shown in the photo ...

40. ... and, having counted the number of revolutions, unscrew the nut.

41. Remove the O-ring from the nut.

Replace a heavily crimped, hardened or frayed ring.

42. Press out the axle shaft oil seal from the nut.

43. If it is necessary to replace the differential bearings, turn the adjusting nut, place a pair of wooden blocks and press out the outer ring of the differential bearing from the nut.

44. Remove the five bolts securing the right differential bearing cover ...

45. ... remove the cover and the O-ring from it, press out the oil seal and, if necessary, the outer ring of the bearing from the cover, in the same way as they were pressed out of the adjusting nut.

46. ​​Remove the differential assembly from the transmission case.

47. Remove the magnet from the crankcase ...

48. ... and clean it from wear debris.

49. Remove the spacer washer from the intermediate reverse gear axle.

The spacer washer of the reverse idler gear may remain in the gearbox housing when the gearbox housing and the intermediate housing are separated. Take it out from there.

50. Remove the two bolts securing the pawl bracket ...

51. ... set the rods of the forks in sequence to positions II, V and III gears and remove the bracket assembly with the pawl.

52. Using a hammer through a chisel with a blunt sting, knock out the plugs of the retainers of the gear shift forks ...

54. Remove the two screws securing the locking pin ...

56. ... and remove the pin from the bracket.

57. Leaning the free end of the rod on a wooden block, knock out the pin securing the fork for engaging the intermediate reverse gear with a beard ...

58. ... and remove the stem and plug.

59. From the holes in the intermediate case, remove the locking pin for simultaneous engagement of two gears.

60. Knock out the pin securing the shift fork of III and IV gears ...

61.… pull out the stem and remove the plug.

When removing the fork, the gearshift clutches must be in the neutral position.

62. Lift the leash of the V gear engagement fork and remove the III and IV gear engagement fork.

63. Pull the rod out of the crankcase and remove the drive of the V gear engagement fork.

64. With a puller for internal circlips (working in compression), squeeze the circlip of the output shaft bearing ...

65. ... and fix it in this position.

66. Knock out the pin securing the forks of gears I and II ...

67.… remove the stem and remove the plug.

68. Using a puller for outer circlips (working for expansion), unclip the circlip of the input shaft bearing ...

69. ... and remove the input and output shafts, taking their shanks out of the intermediate crankcase.

70. Remove the reverse idler gear.

71. With a puller, remove the input shaft bearing retaining ring from the intermediate casing groove.

72. Before inspection and troubleshooting, thoroughly wash and dry the transmission parts.

73. Inspect the transmission case, intermediate case and rear cover. They should not be chipped. There should be no nicks, marks, dents, etc. on the mating surfaces. Remove minor damage with fine-grained emery paper. Replace defective parts if severely damaged.

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74. Check the bearing seats. These surfaces should not show signs of wear or damage. If damaged, replace the crankcases.

75. Check the condition of the gear shift rods. If the rods are bent or there are seizures, burrs, or dents under the retainers, replace the rods.

76. Check the condition of the gear shift forks. If they are bent or the tabs are worn out, replace these parts.

77. If oil leaks through the oil seals are detected during operation and when their working edges are worn, the oil seals must be replaced.

78. Check the condition of the bearings.If cavities are found on the treadmills and rolling elements, traces of indentation of the rolling elements on the treadmills, or if the cages are damaged, the bearings must be replaced.

79. Replace the gaskets of the intermediate case, the rear cover of the transmission and the gear shifting mechanism.

80. Clean the magnet from wear particles. If the magnet appears cracked or its magnetic properties are weakened, replace the magnet.

Assemble the gearbox in the reverse order of disassembly, taking into account the following.

1. Before assembly, liberally lubricate all rubbing parts with gear oil.

2. Assemble all threaded connections using an anaerobic thread lock.

3. Before installing the output shaft in the intermediate crankcase, squeeze the retaining ring with round-nose pliers and secure with a wire in a compressed state. Remove the wire after installing the shaft in the crankcase, making sure that the ring fits into the grooves of the crankcase without distortions.

4. When installing the differential, if its bearings have not been changed, turn the adjusting nut of its bearings by the same number of revolutions as when unscrewing, until the marks applied during disassembly are aligned.

5. If you changed the bearings of the differential, after installing it, adjust the preload of the bearings to the value of the moment of resistance to rotation of the bearings by tightening or unscrewing the adjusting nut. For new bearings, the moment of resistance should be 2 Nm (0.2 kgf If the bearings have not been changed, then the moment of resistance should be 1 Nm (0.1 kgfm).

6. Before installing the lower transmission cover, lubricate the gasket with grease.

Chevrolet Aveo (T-250) - Replacement of manual transmission bearings.