Do-it-yourself gaz 31105 chrysler gearbox repair

The Chrysler gearbox in the store on Putilkovskoe highway is available for Volga and GAZelle cars. Chrysler engines are powerful and reliable units. Their installation on GAZ vehicles increased their prestige.

The engines themselves have increased reliability, but the quality of the Russian gearbox does not catch up with the imported manufacturer. All acquired prestige is lost due to emerging problems with the device. But not only the manufacturer of the device is to blame, but also the poor maintenance of the drivetrain. In this case, you will have to replace the gearbox along with the clutch.

The 31105 Chrysler gearbox in our store is available at the most economical price and this is the only option for the Volga.

On a warm Saturday evening, returning from a country trip, when switching from third to fourth gear, the gearshift lever began to move in all planes. Terrible thoughts began to float in the air - the gear shift forks broke, the shaft in the gearbox wings broke off. But in my heart there was still hope that the nut that secures the gear lever to the crankcase had simply turned off. Having reached a bright spot, we stopped. Our hopes did not come true - the lever was securely attached to the gearbox housing. So we have in stock one forward gear, a five-ton cable and a Zhiguli of the seventh model with which we walked in tandem. There were three event options to choose from:

Disassemble the transmission by the side of the road.

Try to drive, pulling away from third gear, since a new clutch kit is installed on the car.

We have chosen the third option. But the new cable, designed for five tons, immediately broke. There was no choice but to drive on its own. It must be said that the popular joke "The Volga has such a torque that the Earth rotates under its wheels" is not a joke at all. Thus, we got to the parking lot. After examining the gearbox drive, it became clear that most likely the cause of the breakdown is a screwed out bolt fixing the two halves of the slider in the gearbox slide.

It's Sunday morning. This time the owner of the "Zhiguli" stocked up on a cable for 12 tons, we decided to go in tow, because there is a steep hill on the way to the garage, right after turning 90 degrees, we were simply afraid that the engine would not "pull out" in third gear ... It should be noted that the electric fan of the Zhiguli cooling system almost did not turn off, but the engine temperature arrow stood rooted to the spot, despite almost two tons of the so-called "trailer". Thus, we got to the place of repair. Now there was a new task - to roll the car into the box up a rather steep hill. We almost immediately abandoned this idea, we decided to repair the car on the road, lifting it with the help of available means. So, for such a repair you will need:

• Ratchet socket set. Desirable from 8 mm to 17 mm.
• Open-end wrench on "8", "10" "12", "13", "14".
• Thread lock.
• Wire.
• Strong plastic bag.
• Insulating tape.
• Two 6mm growers.
• Container for removed fasteners.
• Wish.

• Two spare wheels (or support comparable in size to the spare wheel).
• Jack.
• Several boards.
• Four wheel chocks.
• Litter for a loved one, we used a carpet from the trunk, barbarism, but the back does not hurt.

There are two problematic bolts in the wings - one will be visible immediately, and the second is covered with a black plastic cover.

• 1. Remove the cover on the rocker, the key to "10".
  2. Place grovers under the screwed-out bolts and screw the bolts onto the thread lock.Two ill-fated bolts, what are they? Miscalculation of designers or an assembly flaw without washers and thread lock?
  3. Engage neutral in the gearbox. The photo shows the position of the mechanism corresponding to neutral gear. It is convenient to do such an operation using a key on "10", by hooking the slider with the key horn. This position of the mechanism corresponds to "Neutral":
  4. Assemble the stage cover using a sealant.
  5. When reinstalling the rocker arm, also seal the gearbox mating plane with sealant. When installing the backstage, it is convenient to work with an assistant - the assistant must position the backstage mechanism from the car using a long screwdriver or a removed shift lever.
  6. Reassemble in reverse order. Also lift the power unit using a jack.
  7. After everything is assembled, do not forget to see if there is an antifreeze leak at the junction of the upper radiator pipe and the thermostat pipe. We have such a leak, which is why our repair did not end on the assembly of the gearbox. Do not repeat our mistakes - the upper radiator pipe must be freed from the rigid attachment to the body.
  8. Do not forget to display the clock in the salon.

The editorial staff of Bibka.Ru would like to express their deep gratitude to the owner of the Zhiguli, Vladimir, and his father, Alexander, for their irrevocable help in repairing the Volga.

In this video you will see:
-Detailed analysis of the five-speed gearbox of the GAZ family (Volga, Gazelle)
-Quick removal of the checkpoint from the car
-Inspection of all parts of the checkpoint (troubleshooting)
- Disassembly of the secondary shaft of the gearbox
-How to quickly install a checkpoint on a car

Do-it-yourself car repair of any complexity. The channel is based on real car repairs coming for repairs to the Parusinka LLC car service, located in the city of Seversk, Tomsk region. A visual guide for everyone who wants to repair their car independently and free of charge.

# car repair # Volga # gas # repair # gearbox # removal # gears # remove # parsing # auto # disassembly # stepped # gearbox # box # 3110 # 31105 # 5ti

Video Volga 3110 - repair of the transmission of the AUTO MANUAL channel

Tools:

• screwdriver flat medium
• open end wrench 14 mm
• open-end wrench 19 mm

We carry out the work on removing the gearbox from the Volga GAZ 31105 car on a viewing ditch or overpass. The gearbox is heavy (about 32 kg), therefore it is recommended to remove, and especially install the gearbox with an assistant.

1. In the passenger compartment of the GAZ 31105 car, use a screwdriver to pry and remove the front insert of the floor tunnel lining.

2. Having lifted the cover of the gear lever with sliding pliers, we unscrew the cover of the lever.

3. We take out the gear shift lever from the case.

4. We take out the rubber seal.

Note:
To prevent the engine from tilting back when removing the gearbox, insert a block of wood of a suitable size between the cylinder block and the bulkhead.
5. We drain the oil from the gearbox and remove the speed sensor. Disconnect the wires from the reversing light switch.

6. We remove the cardan transmission. We remove the front pipe. Remove the clutch release fork.

7. If there is no assistant, we install a hydraulic jack or an adjustable support for safety net under the gearbox.

8. Using the "19" key, unscrew the four nuts securing the gearbox to the clutch housing.

9. Holding the gearbox, use the "14" key to unscrew the four bolts securing the rear support of the power unit to the body of the GAZ 31105 car.

10. Supporting the gearbox, remove the stop and tilt the engine back.

11... We move the gearbox back and remove it from the GAZ 31105 car.
12. Install the gearbox in reverse order.

We recommend assembling the gearbox with an assistant, since, while holding it in weight, it is necessary to align the input shaft with the holes in the clutch driven disc and the flywheel bearing, and the holes in the gearbox flange with the clutch housing studs.
Only after achieving the alignment of the input shaft with the engine crankshaft can the gearbox be screwed onto the clutch housing studs.
To simplify this process, you must first turn on the gear and, when installing the gearbox, rotate the secondary shaft (from the shank side) until the splines of the input shaft engage with the clutch disc.

Disassembly and repair of the gearbox is required for the following malfunctions.

1. Increased noise in the gearbox:

- wear of gear teeth and synchronizers;

2. Difficult gear shifting:

- wear of the spherical hinge of the gear lever, lack of lubrication in the unit;

- deformation of the gear lever;

- burrs, curvatures, contamination of the stem seats, jamming of blocking nuts;

- contamination of the splines of the sliding sleeve and hub;

- deformation of the gear shift forks.

3. Spontaneous switching off or fuzzy switching on of gears:

- wear of the clips, breakage of the springs of the clips;

- wear of the blocking ring of the synchronizer;

- breakage of the synchronizer spring;

- wear of the teeth of the synchronizer clutch or the synchronizer ring gear.

4. Low oil level or oil leak:

- wear of the seals of the primary and secondary shafts;

- loosening of the gearbox housing covers, damage to the gaskets.

The listed malfunctions can be caused by other reasons, the elimination of which does not require the removal and disassembly of the gearbox. Since the work on removing and disassembling the gearbox is very laborious, pay close attention to the diagnosis of malfunctions and make sure that such repairs are absolutely necessary.

You will need: keys ”for 10”, ”for 12”, ”for 13”, ”for 24”, a screwdriver, a hammer, a drift from soft metal.

1. Remove dirt and wash the outside of the transmission.

2. Unscrew the oil filler plug and oil drain plug and drain the oil from the transmission if not previously done.

3. Remove the clutch release bearing and foam ring 1 from the guide sleeve.

4. Unscrew the bolts and remove the rear engine support with the bracket, if not done when removing the transmission from the vehicle.

5. Unscrew the reversing light switch with gasket.

6. Unscrew the bolt 1 fastening the stopper of the speedometer drive, remove the stopper 2 and the speedometer drive together with the speed sensor 3.

8. Unscrew the four bolts 1 and remove the housing 2 of the gear lever with a gasket.

9. Remove the three bolts 1 and remove the input shaft bearing cover with the guide sleeve 2 of the clutch release bearing with the gasket.

10. Remove the bolt securing the idler reverse gear axle on the front transmission case.

11. Remove the bearing retaining ring from the input shaft if you need to replace it.

12. Remove the ten bolts securing the front transmission case to the rear case.

13. Disconnect the front and rear transmission housings. To do this, clamp the extension in a vice with soft pads on the jaws and hit with a copper hammer on the lugs with holes for attaching the gearbox to the clutch housing or through a soft metal drift on the protruding edges of the front housing flange. In doing so, be careful not to damage the gasket.

Do not separate the crankcases by hitting the input shaft. This will inevitably damage the synchronizer.

14. Unscrew the two bolts 1 of the fastening and remove the plate 2 of the rod retainers with a gasket.

15. Remove the three retainer springs.

16. Move the 5th and reverse shift rod to the reverse position.

17. Remove the locking bolts securing the shift forks to the rods.

18. Mark the gear shift forks (rod type and orientation). Knock out the rods with a drift from a soft material and remove them. The first to remove the rod 3 for engaging the 5th gear and reverse, the second - the rod 1 for engaging the 1st and 2nd gears, and the last - the rod 2 for engaging the 3rd and 4th gears.When removing the 3rd and 4th gear selector rod, be careful not to lose the retaining pin. Remove the 1st and 2nd, 3rd and 4th shift forks from the sliding synchroniser clutches.

Disassembly and repair of the gearbox is required for the following malfunctions.

1. Increased noise in the gearbox:

- wear of gear teeth and synchronizers;

2. Difficult gear shifting:

- wear of the spherical hinge of the gear lever, lack of lubrication in the unit;

- deformation of the gear lever;

- burrs, curvatures, contamination of the stem seats, jamming of blocking nuts;

- contamination of the splines of the sliding sleeve and hub;

- deformation of the gear shift forks.

3. Spontaneous switching off or fuzzy switching on of gears:

- wear of the clips, breakage of the springs of the clips;

- wear of the blocking ring of the synchronizer;

- breakage of the synchronizer spring;

- wear of the teeth of the synchronizer clutch or the synchronizer ring gear.

4. Low oil level or oil leak:

- wear of the seals of the primary and secondary shafts;

- loosening of the gearbox housing covers, damage to the gaskets.

The listed malfunctions can be caused by other reasons, the elimination of which does not require the removal and disassembly of the gearbox. Since the work on removing and disassembling the gearbox is very laborious, pay close attention to the diagnosis of malfunctions and make sure that such repairs are absolutely necessary.

To disassemble the gearbox of the Volga 31105 car, you will need:

keys "10", "12", "13", "24", screwdriver, hammer, punch from soft metal.

1. Remove dirt and wash the outside of the transmission.

2. Unscrew the oil filler plug and oil drain plug and drain the oil from the transmission if not previously done.

3. Remove the clutch release bearing and foam ring 1 from the guide sleeve.

4. Unscrew the bolts and remove the rear engine support with the bracket, if not done when removing the transmission from the vehicle.

5. Unscrew the reversing light switch with gasket.

6. Unscrew the bolt 1 fastening the stopper of the speedometer drive, remove the stopper 2 and the speedometer drive together with the speed sensor 3.

8. Unscrew the four bolts 1 and remove the housing 2 of the gear lever with a gasket.

9. Remove the three bolts 1 and remove the input shaft bearing cover with the guide sleeve 2 of the clutch release bearing with the gasket.

10. Remove the bolt securing the idler reverse gear axle on the front transmission case.

11. Remove the bearing retaining ring from the input shaft if you need to replace it.

12. Remove the ten bolts securing the front transmission case to the rear case.

13. Disconnect the front and rear transmission housings. To do this, clamp the extension in a vice with soft pads on the jaws and hit with a copper hammer on the lugs with holes for attaching the gearbox to the clutch housing or through a soft metal drift on the protruding edges of the front housing flange. In doing so, be careful not to damage the gasket.

Do not separate the crankcases by hitting the input shaft. This will inevitably damage the synchronizer.

14. Unscrew the two bolts 1 of the fastening and remove the plate 2 of the rod retainers with a gasket.

15. Remove the three retainer springs.

16. Move the 5th and reverse shift rod to the reverse position.

17. Remove the locking bolts securing the shift forks to the rods.

18. Mark the gear shift forks (rod type and orientation). Knock out the rods with a drift from a soft material and remove them. The first to remove the rod 3 for engaging the 5th gear and reverse, the second - the rod 1 for engaging the 1st and 2nd gears, and the last - the rod 2 for engaging the 3rd and 4th gears. When removing the 3rd and 4th gear selector rod, be careful not to lose the retaining pin.Remove the 1st and 2nd, 3rd and 4th shift forks from the sliding synchroniser clutches.

Please note that the intermediate pin for locking the simultaneous engagement of gears is inserted into the hole in the stem. Don't lose it.

19. Remove the retainer balls by using your hand to push them through the holes into the crankcase with a screwdriver.

20. Remove the two retaining plungers with a special tool or hook from the wire.

21. If it is necessary to disassemble the rod for engaging the 5th gear and reverse, first unscrew the locking bolt 1, and then remove the head 2, the locking sleeve 3 and the spring 4 from the rod.

22. Remove the bolt securing the intermediate reverse gear axle on the rear gearbox housing.

23. Unclench the secondary shaft rear bearing retaining ring with pliers and press out the secondary shaft with a punch from a soft material on the end.

24. At the same time, remove from the rear gearbox housing the output shaft assembly with the primary, the intermediate shaft and the axle of the reverse idler gear.

25. Make sure the 3rd and 4th gear synchroniser is in neutral.

26. Carefully separate the input and output shafts, not forgetting that the loose rollers (14 pcs.) Of the input shaft front bearing may fall out of the input shaft seat.

27. If, during operation, oil is found to leak from the gearbox through the oil seals, the defective oil seals must be replaced.

Dismantling the gear lever

You need two screwdrivers.

1. Unscrew the gear shift knob.

2. Remove the gear lever cover.

3. Remove the rod from the gear lever.

4. Remove the plastic locking sleeve 1, the cap 2 of the lever with a seal, the seat 3 of the spring and the spring 4.

5. Assemble the gear lever in the reverse order of disassembly. In this case, first insert the spacer, elastic and locking bushings into the upper part of the lever.

GAZ-31105 - rear-wheel drive, its rear axle is the leading one.

It consists of a beam, inside which all the main nodes are located.

It looks like the rear axle from GAZ 31105

The axle of the driving gear of the axle is located 4.2 cm below the driven one, the gear ratio of the main gear is 4.556, such a gear is called hypoid. The satellite box contains 2 axles, 4 satellites and 2 bevel gears. The body is made of two halves, bolted together.

Drawing of the device of the rear axle of the Volga 31105

The correct position is set by the adjusting ring located next to it and the bearing. The bearing is preloaded with a spacer ring.

The tips of the axle shafts are inserted into the spline holes of the gears. On the front side of which there are flanges connected to the hub by ten pins. The hub is located directly on the rear axle shaft housing. The wheel is hung and tightened on it.

1. The pinion bearing is defective or simply collapsed. This is treated by buying and installing a new one.
2. The bearing rings are loose in their niche. Repair or replacement of worn out elements is required.
3. Erasing the teeth of the main gear gear - replacing the gear.
4. The lateral distance between the teeth of the main gear is broken - repair with the restoration of the previous distance.
5. The preload on the pinion bearing has been knocked down. Restore the previous pretension. In case of high output, install a new bearing.
6. The driven gear is loose in its lock - tighten the nuts securing the driven gear of the Volga 31105.
7. The integrity of the teeth of the main drive gears is broken. Occurs due to a lost gap or poor-quality lubrication of the mechanism. In this case, replacement of both gears of the main gear is required.

It looks like a brake drum for GAZ 31105

In the gearbox of the GAZ-31105 car, it is advisable to change the oil every 30-40 thousand kilometers. This will require an old container with a volume of at least one and a half liters, a flat screwdriver, a 12 hexagon and a 30 wrench.
Useful advice! It is recommended to drive 5-10 km before replacing. The bridge oil should warm up to help it drain better.
It is more convenient to perform these actions on a lift or overpass:

• a container for old oil is installed under the gearbox;
• the drain hole is located at the lower rear of the gearbox. A rubber protective seal is removed from it with a flat screwdriver;
• the plug of the drain hole of the bridge is unscrewed with a hexagon by 12, it can stick and get clogged with dirt, so you have to make a certain effort;

1. Remove dirt and wash the outside of the gearbox.
2. Unscrew the oil filler and oil drain plugs and drain the oil from the transmission if not previously done.

3. Remove the clutch release bearing and foam ring 1 from the guide sleeve.

4. Unscrew the bolts and remove the rear engine support with the bracket, if this was not done when removing the gearbox from the vehicle.

5. Unscrew the reversing light switch with gasket.

6. Unscrew the bolt 1 securing the speedometer drive stopper, remove the stopper 2 and the speedometer drive 3.

8. Unscrew four bolts 1 and remove housing 2 of the gear lever with a gasket.

9. Unscrew three bolts 1 and remove the bearing cover of the input shaft with the guide sleeve 2 of the clutch release bearing with a gasket.

10. Remove the bolt securing the intermediate reverse gear axle on the front gearbox housing.

11. Remove the input shaft bearing retaining ring if it needs to be replaced.

Be sure to remove the large retaining ring, otherwise do not open the box.

We turn off the speedometer sensor (see the corresponding section).

Using the “12” key, unscrew the four bolts securing the gearshift mechanism cover.

Remove the cover with a gasket.

Using the “12” wrench, unscrew the three bolts securing the bearing cap.

... and remove the cover along with the gasket.

Use two screwdrivers to remove the input shaft bearing retaining ring.

Using the “13” key, unscrew the bolt securing the intermediate reverse gear axle to the gearbox housing.

Using the “10” wrench, unscrew the ten bolts connecting the front and rear gearbox housings.

Disconnect the crankcases by tapping with light hammer blows through a wooden mandrel on the lugs of the gearbox to the clutch housing.

ATTENTION! Do not hit the input shaft as this will damage the synchronizer. Also, do not lose the shims located in the crankcase bore under the output shaft bearing.

Using the “13” wrench, unscrew the two bolts securing the rod retainer plate.

After removing the plate, use tweezers to remove the retainer springs.

Using the “10” wrench, loosen the three bolts securing the forks to the rods.

To unscrew the bolt securing the last fork, move the fifth gear and reverse gear forward.

Using a copper hammer, knock out the rods of the I-II and V gears. The last is to knock out the rod of III-IV gears.

Having taken out the rods from the holes of the crankcase, we remove the gear shift forks from the grooves of the clutches. It is recommended to immediately put the forks on the rods of the corresponding gears so as not to confuse them during subsequent assembly.

In order not to lose the balls of the retainers, use a screwdriver to push them into the crankcase, placing the palm first.

To prevent the rod locks from falling out, we fix them with any grease.

Using the “13” key, unscrew the second bolt securing the intermediate reverse gear axle to the gearbox housing.

Using pliers, unclench the retaining ring of the outer bearing of the secondary shaft and, applying light blows with a brass hammer to the end, press out the secondary shaft.

... simultaneously removing the shaft and the axle of the reverse idler gear from the rear gearbox housing.

Disconnect the primary and secondary shafts. When doing this, be careful not to lose the 14 rollers of the output shaft front bearing.

Having installed the output shaft vertically in a vice, we unclench the locking ring of the III-IV gear hub with pliers.

Remove the retaining ring and snap ring.

Prying up with two screwdrivers, we move up the third gear gear together with the clutch and hub of the fourth gear.

Remove the III-IV gear clutch together with the hub from the shaft.

Remove the blocking ring and the 3rd gear gear.

Remove the needle bearing.

We remove the retaining ring of the two thrust half-rings of the secondary shaft.

... and remove both persistent half rings.

Prying off with a thin screwdriver, remove the locking ball from the output shaft.

We remove the gear wheel of the II transfer.

In the same sequence, we continue to disassemble the entire set of gears and couplings of the secondary shaft until the first gear is removed, inclusive.
We continue further disassembly of the secondary shaft from the other end.

Press the intermediate shaft bearing with two large screwdrivers.

When assembling, we install all the shafts in the rear gearbox housing at the same time. To facilitate this operation, the shafts can be tightened with a belt.

ATTENTION! The thickness of the spacer between the gearbox housings determines the value of the axial clearance in the intermediate shaft bearings. Therefore, we must install it, lubricating it with a thin layer of sealant for reliability. All other gaskets between the crankcase parts should be lubricated with sealant.

When assembling the crankcase connection bolts, degrease and cover the threads with sealant. After installing the unit on the car, do not forget to fill the box with 1.2 liters of transmission oil (up to the level of the filler hole).

So why are you clever if you are not a reference book and you cannot tell a person?

The primary shaft of the gearbox 406 is 19 centimeters, and in Chrysler it is 24.
Also different intermediate Shafts.

Bearings are different on Chrysler, the seat for the crankshaft bearing is larger, the clutch disc is the same.
But the gear ratios in Chrysler are almost the same as on the gazelle.

then it turns out not only the input shaft needs to be changed, but also the intermediate ones?

and will the primary and secondary shafts still fit together?

In this video you will see:
-Detailed analysis of the five-speed gearbox of the GAZ family (Volga, Gazelle)
-Quick removal of the checkpoint from the car
-Inspection of all parts of the checkpoint (troubleshooting)
- Disassembly of the secondary shaft of the gearbox
-How to quickly install a checkpoint on a car

Do-it-yourself car repair of any complexity. The channel is based on real car repairs coming for repairs to the Parusinka LLC car service, located in the city of Seversk, Tomsk region. A visual guide for everyone who wants to repair their car independently and free of charge.

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Damn it, I didn't know that! Thank you dear!

He fled urgently to repair gaps in education.

Yes. Because I read a lot and remember as much. There were not two boxes, and that's a fact. What is written above. So far, that from you only naked statements and nothing more.
Can we talk about different input shafts? Desire to eat?

Following your logic about the gear ratios, we can conclude that the Volga 24-2410-3102-31029-3110-31105 families are just the same car because built on the same platform

oh, let's talk.
there are only two primary shafts, if we are talking about a five-speed gearbox.
Volga - 26 teeth
gazelle 25 teeth
farther.
Volgovskaya primary organization, there was a side on the early primary organizations, then it was gone, it does not carry any semantic load, but some pray to it.
farther.
The primary for the rat and for the 406 differs in length and in the seat for the flywheel bearing.
farther.
about the box.
oh well, yes, there were several types of them.
transfer.
the first gearboxes were on ball bearings, the gear shift forks were cast.
the next modification is the installation of roller bearings on the industrial shaft.
and the last generation, these are double synchronizers in 1st and 2nd gear, engagement forks with breadcrumbs, well, roller bearings on the industrial shaft.

gazelle box has undergone the same changes.

drove on.
the engine of the fireplaces and umz appeared, and you will not believe it, the box remained the same, only under the fireplaces they strengthened the gearbox housing.

now let's talk about the GP.
GP 4.1 was installed on 2410, 31029 and on the first 3110, and on 3102.
with the installation of the 406 motor, they began to install the GP 3.9.
with the installation of a rat, they began to install GP 3.58.

Well, and most importantly, as there were gear ratios in the checkpoint, they remained, they have not changed since 95.

ps
no offense is said, continue reading, and I will go through a couple more boxes of Volgovskih.

It is unlikely that anyone will be surprised by the fact that in almost any car the gearbox is a very important unit, without which the functioning of the vehicle will simply become impossible. Therefore, at the first sign of breakdown, it is necessary to carry out repair work. In this case, it will be possible to protect yourself from more serious problems in the future and ensure the normal operation of the car. Currently, the repair of the gas 31105 gearbox is often required, because a considerable number of people use this model.

Today, you can get quite qualified assistance in repairing the gearbox without any problems. At the same time, it is important to use high-quality tools and equipment. An important role is also played by the professionalism of the masters who will repair the gas 31105 gearbox. If the problems are insignificant and there is some experience in eliminating them, then you can try to repair them yourself, but if the problems with the box are significant, then it is better to contact the masters.

Due to improper or too long-term operation of the box, some problems may occur in this car model. There are several main reasons why repairs are required. One of the most common problems is wear on bearings and other gearbox components. This is a natural problem in the case of intensive use. Also, sometimes the box can fail due to malfunctions in the clutch, untimely oil change, and insufficient amount. Because of this, not only the box can fail, but also the transmission system and the engine. Repair of the gas 31105 gearbox may also be necessary when the operating conditions of the machine are violated, associated with the wrong order of gear shifting, as well as the choice of the desired speed.

A truly high-quality repair of the gearbox can only be carried out by an experienced master who has at hand all the equipment and high-precision tools necessary for this. The cost of repairing a box depends on a fairly large number of factors, which is why it is not easy to determine it after an initial inspection. The master can assess the technical condition of the box and the approximate scope of work only after inspection and diagnostics.

Timely repair of the box allows you to eliminate damage in the shortest possible time, as well as prevent other transmission elements from becoming unusable. To repair the gas box, you will most likely need to dismantle this unit. But some faults can be eliminated without removing the box. The overall condition of the transmission system can be dependent on quality repairs. It is necessary to periodically change the clutch disc, oil seals and other similar components.The final success of the entire repair depends on the competence of the master and the availability of special equipment. It is important to correctly disassemble the box, detect the malfunction, fix it and reassemble the assembly.

Operation and repair manual for GAZ-31105 with Chrysler DOHC 2.4L engine, Euro 2 and Euro 3

Step by step repair in photos
Complete specifications
Features of operation and repair
Troubleshooting along the way
More than 2000 thousand photos
Wiring diagrams
Body control dimensions

Year of issue: 2008

Hi all! I have such a situation Volga 31105 Chrysler when shifting the gearbox, you have to add force to turn on the gear and this is when the clutch is released, the clutch pedal does not dangle a lot. tell me what's the matter thanks in advance!

• Posts: 48
• Location: Orenburg region

is the inclusion of a transmission accompanied by any sounds? or does the car jerk? the clutch pedal began to dangle when there were signs of difficult gear engagement? perhaps the fact is that the grip has weakened and the cable should be tightened and the backlash removed from the pedal.

geka, 4 April 2012, 11:33, # 2

is the inclusion of a transmission accompanied by any sounds? or does the car jerk? the clutch pedal began to dangle when there were signs of difficult gear engagement? perhaps the fact is that the grip has weakened and the cable should be tightened and the backlash removed from the pedal.

turns on without any sounds! signs appeared about two weeks ago!

• Posts: 95
• Location: Yekaterinburg

there was something like that there the disc itself was worn out, change the clutch disc, but it is better to take everything assembled by CRAFT and everything will be like clockwork.

• Posts: 33
• Location: Nizhny Novgorod region
• GAZ 31105 Chrysler 2.4L DOHC

gas stink 31105 on the go from the checkpoint oil. Putting dense material under the gearshift lever cover does not help. Can someone tell me

gas stink 31105 on the go from the checkpoint oil. It is necessary to top up a glass of oil through the throat where the lever is inserted - the amount necessary for sufficient lubrication of the 5th speed and upper levers-forks. But not much. Otherwise, the excess will go through the rear oil seal. Note that the oil is poured over the level determined by the holes in the box. There was the same problem. GAZ 31105 Chrysler 2.4L DOHC

• Posts: 15
• GAZ 31105 Volga

You definitely need to tighten the cable.

• Messages: 3060
• Location: Novosibirsk
• ZIL 5301 Goby

On the wings, the bolt is most likely unscrewed! Since the plastic pallet, the sound is not audible

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