Do-it-yourself gazelle 5-speed gearbox repair what to look for

In detail: do-it-yourself gazelle 5-speed gearbox repair what to look for from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Noise in the gearbox is usually the result of bearing wear, chipping of the working surface of the gear teeth, and even their breakage. Disassembly of the gearbox and replacement of damaged parts is required.

Another reason even a new gearbox can make noise is the low oil level in the crankcase. This malfunction is a consequence of an oil leak from the gearbox.

A misalignment of the crankshaft and clutch housing is also possible. Using an indicator mounted on a stand attached to the rear end of the engine crankshaft (gearbox and clutch removed), while rotating the shaft, check the runout of the bore for the gearbox in the clutch housing (db 0.3 max) and the non-perpendicularity of the rear end clutch housing (d. b. 0.15 max).

How to remove the gearbox can be read in many printed and electronic publications, such as the repair and maintenance manual, so this operation will not be described in this article.

The next step is to thoroughly wash and rinse all parts of the gearbox, including the crankcase of the gearbox itself. Next, conduct a close inspection of all gearbox parts for damage and excessive wear.

chipping of the working surface of the inner ring of the input shaft bearing (for clarity, the bearing is cut)

Image - Do-it-yourself gazelle 5-speed gearbox repair what to look for

slight wear of the secondary shaft roller bearing,
output shaft bearing play,
play in the bearing of the toe of the input shaft of the gearbox (pressed into the crankshaft),
the absence of one of the contacts of the reverse sensor (broke off when dismantling the gearbox)

Video (click to play).

input shaft bearing V6-50307АКШ1,
secondary shaft roller bearing 20-1701182,
bearing of the secondary shaft V6-50706USH1,
primary toe bearing 402.1701031,
reverse gear sensor LSH.609.016,
gearbox shank oil seal (2 pcs.) 24-1701210-07,
set of paronite gaskets.

I will not describe the assembly itself either, but I will point out its subtleties.

For ease of assembly, it is better to screw the rear part of the gearbox housing with self-tapping screws to the bar (see below in the photo). In this state, it is easier to insert the shafts, the crankcase does not fall anywhere and does not collapse.

For this, a similar block is taken as for the rear of the crankcase and a hole is drilled with an 18 mm feather drill, then the output shaft is inserted into the drilled hole (see photo). Now the work on pressing will be much easier, and will not spoil the shaft itself when it stops.

In the same block, next to the previously drilled hole, a new hole is drilled with a 16 mm nib drill. Then the input shaft is inserted into the drilled hole (see photo) and 14 rollers are installed. Without removing the shaft from the bar, we connect the primary and secondary shafts. Now this node is ready for further assembly.

The resulting device in the course of work.

We install the primary, secondary and intermediate shafts in the gearbox housing. If the plunger jumped out during the parsing of the checkpoint, then questions may arise: how did they still stand? Schematically it looks like this:

If all the parts located inside the crankcase are installed, then you can connect the two halves of the gearbox housing and tighten 10 bolts.

It remains to install the gear lever and check the engagement of each of the gears, scrolling the input shaft, controlling the speed and direction of rotation of the output shaft. We unscrew the block previously screwed to the rear half of the gearbox housing. Screw in the reverse sensor after installing the gearbox on the vehicle.

Lubricate with paste (included in the kit with the ZMZ clutch disc): the seat on the input shaft for the crankshaft bearing, the input shaft splines and the sliding surface of the release bearing of the gearbox front cover.

... installation of the reverse sensor in the gearbox.

The oil should still be poured through the hole for the gear lever, because in this case, it will partially lubricate the gearbox elements, and conduct additional control through the filler hole.

Hang up the rear wheels of the car (jack up and place the rear axle of the car on the stops), start the engine and slowly turn on the gears one by one (create an imitation of the car's movement). Performance test of each transmission for about one minute. WHAT WILL IT GIVE!? Firstly, since the gearbox parts have been thoroughly washed, then the initial operation of the gearbox will be dry, despite the fact that the oil is already filled in As a result, the operation of the primary and secondary shafts goes dry, although where the gears and bearings were lubricated during the assembly process), and when the vehicle is operating without load, it will painlessly distribute the oil inside the gearbox system, and secondly, in case of unforeseen circumstances (sudden exit failure of any element, breakdown, etc.) the operation of components and assemblies will be without load, which will avoid more serious breakdowns.

Repair of the Gazelle checkpoint is a difficult event for which you need to prepare in advance. The gearbox functions by transmitting torque to the wheels from the motor shaft. It should be understood that the slightest failure in the functioning of the transfer case can threaten your safety. If there is no service station nearby, you can repair the malfunction yourself. If you strictly follow the step-by-step instructions, even a novice motorist can carry out this procedure without any problems.

The Gazelle checkpoint is rightfully considered one of the most reliable and durable, but even they can become unusable due to high loads. In order for the replacement of the Gazelle gearbox to go without a hitch, you must know the materiel of the car, study the diagrams, be careful and patient, and also follow the safety rules and understand the principle of operation in the Gazelle 4x4 gearbox.

Repair of the Gazelle may be required in some cases:

Difficulty shifting gears. Such a snag occurs due to the lack of fluid in the cylinder or due to the presence of air in the hydraulic actuator. In addition, you can check the locking bolts, which often require additional tightening, as well as the intermediate shaft of the gearbox. You can observe how the device jerks in neutral and the box howls. Another sign - in 4th gear, the fifth or second device makes a howl, a lot of noise;

the inclusion of the gearbox occurs with noise and crackling at startup. In this case, the synchronizer block ring on the transfer case could be worn out or deformed. Also check the power take-off. It is advisable to replace the locking ring or the power take-off, and in order for the new element to rub in without problems, use lapping paste. In addition, check the condition of the input shaft, how the mortar works, whether the car was noisy in neutral;

arbitrary shutdown of the manual transmission. If you noticed such a problem, first of all check the fastening nuts to the clutch housing, as well as in what condition the gearbox gazelle is in. In addition, the couplings (worn out teeth), as well as the retaining springs (they can both wear out and weaken), could wear out. You may also need to adjust the intermediate shaft and input shaft;

Do not think that repairing a Gazelle checkpoint with your own hands is easy. The gearbox is a complex mechanism that transfers torque from the engine shaft to the drive wheels. Your safety depends on it and the slightest deviations in the operation of the checkpoint signal the need for diagnostics. You should not be afraid of difficulties - after all, the service station may not be nearby, and step-by-step instructions will help to successfully cope with the matter even for a novice car enthusiast.

The Gazelle checkpoint is reliable and durable. But constant loads sometimes lead to its breakdown. Repair of the Gazelle gearbox will require from the driver:

knowledge of the materiel of the car;
the ability to remove the checkpoint, disassemble, and then assemble and put in place;
strict adherence to safety regulations;
attention, accuracy and patience.

Transmission - mechanical, five-speed. Consists of:

two aluminum crankcases (connected with 10 bolts);
primary and secondary shafts (connected to the crankshaft and cardan);
an intermediate shaft with cut teeth of the 1st gear and reverse gear, a pressed gear block and a speedometer drive gear;
inertial synchronizers;
spring balls for gear fixing;
blocking the inclusion of gears at the same time;
a damper lever device;

The signal for urgent repair of the Gazelle gearbox is:

Inability to change gear or if it is difficult to do so.
When you try to turn on the gear while driving, a loud crack is heard.
Self-inclusion of the transfer (threatens the danger of an accident).
Any extraneous noise, crunching, tapping at the checkpoint.
Scheduled diagnostics of the Gazelle checkpoint should be carried out every 300,000 km.

Long-term operation of Gazelle cars made it possible to make a list of the main faults of the Gazelle gearbox and their possible reasons:

Cause of humming noise during operation - destruction of worn parts or loosening of fastening bolts;
Crunch at the checkpoint - destruction of bearings;
Crackle when switching - the synchronizer rings are worn out;
Difficulty shifting speeds - jamming in the gearbox drive, wear of gears, burrs, etc. (you need to disassemble and look);
Self-switching off speeds - misalignment of gear teeth, wear of rods and forks, loosening of gearbox and driven shaft fasteners;
Oil loss - a crack in the crankcases, loosening of fasteners, wear of the gasket, oil seal, etc.

A breakdown was found, the reasons were found out - it remains to start repairing. To do this, it is necessary to remove and disassemble the checkpoint.

For repairs, you will need an inspection pit or overpass, as well as tools:

a set of keys (for 10, 12, 13, 14, 17, 19);
Screwdriver Set;
beard;
wooden blocks;
pliers (pliers);
mount;
strippers;
hammer;
file, sandpaper;
brass lining or copper hammer;
mandrel for old oil seals.
container for draining oil;
rags;
SHRUS-4, gear oil, GOI paste.

When repairing a Gazelle checkpoint with your own hands, first of all, you need to drive the car onto an overpass or inspection pit. After that, proceed to remove the box:

Step 1 - free the crankcase from oil;

Step 2 - remove the gimbal:

using a file, mark the position of the cardan joint and the gearbox extension, as well as the cardan and rear axle flanges;
using keys 12 and 13, remove the fasteners for the intermediate support;
using keys 14 and 17, remove the cardan fasteners to the flange of the main gear drive gear;
remove the shank from the gearbox (pull it back and pull it out);
Plug the hole with a rag.

Step 3 - get the lever:

from inside the cab, remove the cover and the upper part of the lever;
unclench the spacer sleeve, remove the rubber pad and locking sleeve;

remove the floor seal and the protective cover, unscrew the cover and remove the lever.

Step 4 - disconnect the speedometer and reversing light switch from the checkpoint.

Step 5 - remove the checkpoint:

unscrew the fasteners of the intake pipes and the bracket to the gearbox (keys 12 and 14);
disconnect the gearbox from the clutch housing (4 nuts);
protect the block head with a wooden block;
remove the cross member of the gearbox mounting and shaking, giving back the box itself.

Troubleshooting requires overhauling the Gazelle gearbox. Disassembly of the checkpoint must be done in stages:

Remove the bearing cover, change the oil seal (key 12, screwdriver, mandrel).
Remove the reversing axle bushing fasteners (spanner 13).
Remove the input shaft bearing circlip (thin screwdriver).
Remove breather.
Disconnect the crankcases (12 wrench, hammer and brass mandrel).
Engage reverse gear (by turning the input shaft).
Remove the gear fork mount (spanner 10).
Remove the lever bodies and the plate with the gasket (key 12).
Remove the springs and balls (3 each) of the retainers (magnetic screwdriver).
Remove the rods in order - 1, 2, 5, reverse, 3 and 4 gears and the locking pin.
Using a wrench 13, unscrew the fastening of the reverse gear axle and remove the circlip of the rear bearing of the output shaft.
Remove the shafts (using a copper hammer) and disassemble them.When disassembling, carefully lay out the parts in order, mark their relative position.

Assembling the Gazelle gearbox after repair is carried out in the reverse order. The shafts should be installed at the same time (tie with twine). Before assembly, you should carefully inspect the crankcase (for cracks, notches, bumps). Wash all parts (in kerosene, diesel fuel), inspect (bearings, shafts, gaskets, gear teeth, etc.). Any traces of corrosion, grind the faces. Replace all broken or suspicious parts with new ones, lubricate with transmission oil, SHRUS-4 (cuffs, splines, etc.). Treat the crankcase fasteners with sealant. Do-it-yourself Gazelle gearbox bearings should be replaced every 100,000 km.

Installing the gearbox The gearbox is installed in the reverse order. The slots must be lubricated with SHRUS-4. Next, a cardan is placed (you need to make sure that the marks match). After installing the gearbox, pour in 1.2 liters. oil into the crankcase (up to the filler hole). As you have seen, the work on the checkpoint repair is large and preparation for it must be serious.

We remove the gearbox.
We wrap the filler and drain plugs in place.

We remove the clutch with the bearing and the foam rubber rings of the front cover.

Remove the power unit support.
Remove the reversing light switch (see Replacing the reversing light switch).
Remove the speedometer drive (see Replacing the speedometer drive).

Using a 12 key, unscrew the three bolts securing the bearing cover (the bolts are installed on the sealant).

Remove the cover with the gasket.

When installing it later, pay attention to the coincidence of the oil drainage channel in the cover and the holes in the crankcase.

Prying off with a screwdriver, remove the input shaft seal from the cover (when disassembling the gearbox, we replace all the cuffs, regardless of their condition).

Press in a new cuff with a mandrel or a head of a suitable diameter.

Using the "13" key, unscrew and remove the bolt securing the bushing of the reverse gear axle to the front crankcase.

Use a thin screwdriver to pry and remove the input shaft bearing retaining ring.

Turn the key "12" and remove the breather.

Using a 12 key, unscrew ten bolts connecting the front and rear crankcases (two bolts passing through the dowel sleeves are longer than the others).

By gently tapping the brass mandrel with a hammer, undo the front and rear crankcases.

ATTENTION
In this case, do not strike at the end of the input shaft, as the synchronizers will be damaged.

Disconnect the gearbox housings.

Carefully, trying not to damage, remove the gasket.

We take out the adjusting shims from the bore under the intermediate shaft bearing in the front crankcase (they may not be there). In this case, the axial clearance in the bearings is set only by the crankcase seal.

Turning the input shaft, we turn on the reverse gear (we move the V gear and reverse gear forward).

Using the "10" key, unscrew the bolts of the three gear shift forks.

Using the "12" key, unscrew the four bolts securing the gear lever housing.

Remove the lever housing with a gasket.

Using the "12" wrench, unscrew the bolts of the rod retainer plate.

Remove the plate with the gasket.

We take out three springs and three balls of gearshift clamps (they can be removed with a magnetized screwdriver or by turning the box over).

We take out the rod of the 1st – 2nd gear (so as not to confuse it during assembly, we immediately put the plug on the rod and fasten it with a bolt).

We take out the rod of the V gear and reverse gear by putting the appropriate plug on it.

We take out the rod of III-IV gears. Remove the blocker pin from the stem.

To prevent the plungers of the blocker from falling out, we insert tubes rolled from thick paper into the holes of the rods.

Using the "13" key, unscrew the bolt securing the reverse gear axle to the rear crankcase.

With pliers we push apart the tendrils of the circlip of the secondary shaft rear bearing and, tapping with a copper hammer on the rear end of the secondary shaft, ...

… We take out the set of shafts together with the axle and reverse gear.

Disconnect the primary and secondary shafts.

We remove the IV gear synchronizer and take out 14 rollers of the front support of the secondary shaft.
Gears, synchronizers and other parts located on the input and output shafts are similar to each other, therefore, to facilitate subsequent assembly, they should be carefully laid out in the order of removal.

Using two thin screwdrivers or special pliers, we unclench and remove the locking ...

With a beard (with two mounting blades or a special puller) we press the input shaft bearing.

Similarly, remove both intermediate shaft bearings.

Installing the output shaft vertically in a vice through soft shims.

… And a snap ring of the III – IV clutch hub.

Remove the clutch assembly with breadcrumbs and synchronizer springs.

It is better not to disassemble this kit, but if such a need arises, mark the relative position of the parts.

ATTENTION
The gear clutches are not symmetrical, so they only fit in one position.

Removing the synchronizer ring ...

... and a gear wheel for 3rd gear with a plastic cage and rollers.

Use a screwdriver to pry on and remove the retaining ring ...

With a magnetized screwdriver, take out the locking ball of the half rings.

We remove the gear wheel of the 2nd gear with the bearing.

Remove the 2nd gear synchronizer ring.

Removing the clutch for engaging 1st-2nd gears ...

... and the 1st gear synchronizer ring.

Remove the 1st gear with the bearing.
We carry out further disassembly of the secondary shaft from the other end.

Prying off with a thin screwdriver, remove the locking ...

We remove the drive gear of the speedometer drive ...

... and take out its locking ball.

Using two mounting blades or a special puller, we remove the rear bearing of the secondary shaft.

We take out the pin with pliers.

Remove the V gear with bearing ...

Remove the spacer ring.

We remove the spring ring with special pliers and screwdrivers and then ...

… The clutch for engaging the 5th gear and reverse gear.

Remove the synchronizer ring.

Remove the reverse gear with bearing.

ATTENTION
The thickness of the spacer between the gearbox housings determines the axial clearance in the intermediate shaft bearings. Therefore, we must install it, lubricating it with a thin layer of sealant for reliability. Sealant should also be applied to all other cardboard gaskets of the transmission.

When assembling, the bolts connecting the crankcase parts should be degreased and the threads covered with sealant. After installing the unit on the car, do not forget to fill the box with 1.2 liters of transmission oil (up to the level of the filler hole).

The cost of repairing boxes:
RUB 3000, including removal and installation without spare parts.
6000 rubles, including spare parts and remove / deliver, if the entire shafts and housing.
The cost of repairs is fixed and cannot be changed.
Taking into account the removal of the box, the price of the gearbox repair on the Gazelle: RUB 3000, including removal and installation on a car.

Repair of a GAZelle box involves the following work:
free car diagnostics to accurately determine the breakdown; removal from the car;
complete disassembly of the checkpoint is mandatory;
troubleshooting of internal spare parts;
replacement of necessary (worn out) spare parts - parts;
Assembly and installation back to the car.

The cost for the repair is one and cannot change, from an internal fault.
The warranty for our work performed and spare parts is from 90 days to one year with no mileage limitation.
Our work is paid only after checking and accepting the car.
Time for gearbox repair including removal - installation takes approximately 2-3 hours.
To repair the checkpoint, we do not take Chinese ones, but install only the original GAZ spare parts.
All that is needed for the repair of oil seals, sealant, gaskets, assembled and bare shafts, housings, bearings, wings are always with us at a cost lower than in ordinary chain stores.

The service is called - checkpoint exchange gazelle... Our fund has already sorted boxes and you can use the service to save time. All gearboxes for exchange are subject to complete disassembly → overhaul → assembly. All such boxes are guaranteed for up to one year. If the average repair time is about 3 hours, then the exchange takes about 1.5 - 2 hours.

Exchange of a gazelle checkpoint without installation - 5000 rubles. Provided that your box has a whole body and shafts. If the body or shaft is broken, then 1500 is added to the cost if the gazelle is gasoline with a motor 405, 405, ZMZ, 4216. Installing the box during the exchange costs 1000 rubles.

If your box is almost completely broken (shafts and housing are damaged), then the repair will be expensive and it will not be profitable for an exchange either. Then in this case you can buy used KPP-5 Art. for gazelle, Volga, sable with a guarantee up to a year... To avoid damage to the box, you should not start the gazelle from the tug at reverse speed, with a loaded car, do not abruptly drive in reverse, otherwise it threatens to break the body and two shafts. Also, watch the oil level, in the absence of oil, gears and bearings overheat, after which all iron parts must be replaced, which can be very expensive!

Usually, there is a strong noise of the gearbox operation at all speeds, except for the straight 4th, this occurs due to bearings on the primary and secondary shafts, less often noise occurs due to the operation of the shafts. To find out which bearing is making noise - it is possible only after complete disassembly and troubleshooting of the box shafts. We use GAZ and Korean-made bearings for repairs, which allow us to give a guarantee from one month to one year.
Another common malfunction is when the speed “knocks out” or the gearbox “does not keep” the gear. This happens due to breakage or the development of teeth on the gearshift clutch and its other part is the crown on the gear. The need to replace spare parts is determined after a detailed, thorough inspection and troubleshooting.

Other most common problems in the operation of the Gazelle, Volga and sable gearboxes are oil leaks from under the oil seals and gaskets. Gearbox repair is as follows:
- Replacement of the gasket;
- Replacing the oil seal on the input shaft;
- Replacing the rear oil seal - shank
- Replacing the entire gearbox shank (if necessary)
- Replacement of other worn parts

On Gazelle Next, frequent problems:
- 5 gear is noisy
- rumble in 5th gear
In the first case, there is a large output and bearings are noisy. And in the second in the box, the fifth gear is broken.

The photo shows typical breakdowns of a fifth gear gear. When driving on such a box, there is a characteristic rumble. This is the first sign of 5th gear repair. Replacing the gear, the fungus changes quite often, since the teeth break on it.
Moreover, this breakdown of the box is typical for the next, both the old model and the new one. True, the new sample is less susceptible than the old one. Therefore, we do not recommend driving in fifth gear at a speed of less than 80-90 km per hour.
If there is a rumble in the box, you should immediately contact a workshop for manual transmission repair. Longer driving will lead to more breakdowns and more expensive repairs.

– Change oil after 25,000 km if using mineral oil.
- Check the oil level at least every 10,000 km.
- You cannot operate the gearbox with an oil leak, a low oil level, otherwise the gearbox will "burn out", overheating of the bearings and gears will occur, and after that the repair will become even more expensive. Therefore, check the oil level and inspect the box for leaks in the morning before leaving.
- Smoothly switch gears of the box, after the clutch is completely disengaged.
- You cannot operate the machine with an incompletely disengaged clutch, because in this case the synchronizers will quickly fail and the gears will engage with a “crunch” and then the gears will start to fly out.

If your box has a broken case or a crack, or you drove without oil in the box, then most likely there is no point in repairing it - it will not be profitable. When driving without oil, all gears and bearings become unusable - it turns out scrap metal! In such cases, you can simply buy a used checkpoint for a gazelle and Volga after a major overhaul with a guarantee.In the presence of boxes for all gazelles (cummins, steyer, chrysler, next, business).
If you have a diesel engine Cummins, Cummins, Chrysler, Stayer - the cost of the checkpoint is 15,000 rubles.
If the engine on the gazelle is gasoline 402, 405, 406, 4216, ZMZ - the price of the checkpoint is 10,000 rubles.

Commercial transport also requires attention, so do-it-yourself repair of a checkpoint on a Gazelle is not uncommon in garages. This work is quite difficult, but if you do everything according to the instructions, then almost everyone can cope with it. The quality of work depends not least on the parts used. Purchase spare parts only in trusted places. This will save you from the problems of premature failure of the repaired box. It is advisable to be able to consult with an experienced mechanic in case of difficulties with the repair. Remember that all work must be done carefully and in full compliance with safety regulations.

Do-it-yourself checkpoint repair on a Gazelle, necessary for visible problems with this node. Signs of a malfunction are difficulties with shifting gears, jumping out of speeds, noise in the gearbox. If any of these signs appear, it is simply necessary to repair the box. In some cases, this should be done immediately.

Ensure the integrity of the parts before the assembly process. Cracks, as well as the consequences of visible wear, are considered unacceptable. The bearings should slide into place with little effort. If there are small seizures on the surface of the shafts, you need to grind them with GOI paste. Mating parts should rotate without any interference.

All ball bearings must be replaced. Before assembling, you need to rinse the parts in kerosene or diesel fuel. It is advisable to install gaskets together with a sealant, this will avoid transmission oil leaks.

Conclusion... The transmission is constantly under load, so the wear of its parts is quite high. In this regard, people are often interested in whether it is possible to repair the checkpoint on the Gazelle with their own hands. In fact, there is nothing particularly scary in this node, if everything is done carefully, then you will not have any problems. For repairs, you do not need special tools, everything you need is already in any garage.

Where to send your message - mail.

Gazelle. When the speed is set to 4 and 5, there is no noise in the box, but as I release the throttle without switching off the gear, noise appears in the box. I went through the box, according to your video instructions. I changed the bearing of the secondary shaft and all the needle ones, the rest is normal, there is no play on the secondary shaft on the roller bearings. Is there clutch noise? I have a reinforced one with 6 springs, native 5 springs. Thank you.

Please tell me Vasily, what is the minimum distance between the gear and the synchronizer?

normally the uncle explains everything in great detail, now I think to try my box myself, thanks)).

Thank you very much needed video.

rings are not corkscrews, but retaining rings

do the ball bearings of the shaft need to be adjusted?

Yes, everything is correct, thanks. I'll disassemble mine in a couple of days Only with this video.

Stumbled upon a video. In principle, everything is fine, but I will allow myself a few comments. If you do a complete troubleshooting, then you need to pay attention not only to the gap between the synchronous gear and the gear, but also to the condition of the synchronous teeth. It also does not hurt to disassemble the clutches, the gear is usually very worn out by the hub and the clutch itself. And it is not at all worth knocking with a hammer on the outer bearing race, it will turn out (work hardening) the bearing life is reduced.

Thank you . Very good videos, I myself watched everything about the 5-speed box to the Volga (406). Disassembled, one of these days I will collect, too, according to your videos (the 3rd did not turn on and the 4th did not turn off, it turned out that the wear of the plug was so great that there was hardly a millimeter left at the ends). I will recommend it to everyone. We are waiting for new videos about the Volga) (especially 406)

well done, thanks . very handy.more such

I assembled a gearbox, the reverse speed and the fifth one do not turn on, is this possible due to the replacement of barrels?

Hello, kind person, you have GOLDEN HANDS. But I had a question: WHY DOES THE REAR GEAR BREAK ON THE GAZELS IN THE PPC: from LOAD or from SPEED? Please write under the video or shoot a short clip in VK “how to fix. ”Or something like that? Thank you very much.

And that the bolts of the forks are not fixed as they are. I saw somewhere that on the wires or at least on the latch ??

How to determine which bearings should stand on the intermediate shaft, roller or ball bearings may have been set incorrectly before

Hello Vasily, we had such a problem on the Volgovskaya box 3110, 5 did not turn on and turned on it by force, after that, when rolling on a neutral, a noise appeared then it disappeared, and sometimes while driving in neutral and when the throttle is pressed, the car continues to move and speeds other than 4 do not turn on, after that you need to stop turning on 1st gear and on it the car starts jerkily and after that you can change gears. When driving with this problem, the smell of transmission oil is heard but no drips are observed. Thank you!

After assembling the Gazelle NEXT gearbox, the bearing of the extension cord was replaced with the one with the plastic carriage, 2nd gear is switched on with re-gasification. What can be the jamb.

Hello, the fifth gear is moving along the shaft with a clearance of 0.50 and the bearing on the output shaft turns, tell me how to solve the problem. Thank you.

Hello, tell me how to install the front oil seal thanks

dear Vasily, please tell me how to eliminate the gap between the reverse gear and the synchronizer clutch

Greetings. Lost the cotter pin that you put in the secondary at 2:01 without it, will there be any consequences? And also a cotter pin in the stock 3.4 where you put it at 9:30 minutes, what is it for?

Vasily everything is clear, but the question is that I put a 5th gear thrust washer without a cotter pin, what will this lead to? Although the essence of my problem is - there was an incomprehensible buzz of the checkpoint - when accelerating to 3000 everything is quiet, when the engine is braking from 3000 to 2000. It is especially audible on the 4th. The sound is as if the gearshift knob is buzzing, but if you hold it down, the sound does not disappear, and on the 5th light noise when accelerating with engine braking, the noise disappears, what could be the reason? I changed all the bearings in the gearbox, everything remained the same.

Hello Vasily. I changed the input shaft on the box, the engine is kamins. On the secondary shaft I removed only the clutch 3-4 gears. After assembly, 3 began to turn on only after 4 and on a non-working engine the same thing, it happens to turn on after 2. But very rarely. Tell me. what could be the reason, could I put the clutch incorrectly, the synchromes are new.

Good day! Yesterday we sorted out the box. All bearings were changed, except for the roller on the input shaft. It seemed like the rollers were perfect and there was no backlash. The gearbox works perfectly, but there is still a little noise in the neutral. When I squeeze the clutch, silence. Can you please tell me if I think correctly that the noise is from this roller bearing on the input shaft?

Good afternoon, did not put the speedometer gear correctly, what could be the consequences besides the inoperative speedometer?

Good afternoon, at 10 minutes, you are talking about the pin with the lock, we did not notice how it fell out and inserted it without a shterechka and now we cannot pull this stick back out to insert the pin how to do it? Thank you

And the whole question disappears, pulled out

thanks for the info, it helped a lot, the car mechanic himself, but it takes longer to understand the book, and there are not enough details))

Hello Vasily !! I need your verbal help !! Things are such a box the gazelle sings at idle !! after a trip of about 500 km, it began to rattle 4th gear to load when you give it !! and after the gas was released, the same sound !! removed the box, replaced all bearings even worse !! visually everything is intact syncs in the transmission rate are turned on perfectly. I broke my head, what could it be !! And now, when we put the stopper on the input shaft, we pull it out a little out of the box, it means there is a backlash? Where are the rollers sitting?

Thank you! They helped a lot, I did how you did it for me, though I had to tinker with three ball-cylinders that fell out, but then I used plain paper instead of a washcloth and collected everything as expected.

There are several comments.It is better to remove the plunger between the rods and inspect they are raw meat and are badly crumpled. It is better to hammer the bearings not with a beard or chisel, but with a pipe, ideally with a press. Any blow to the bearing reduces its resource. And you cannot hit the outer cage of the bearing with a hammer. In the video, after such actions, he almost stopped spinning)))

Good evening. How is it regulated, or rather how is the axial play of the intermediate shaft measured with ball bearings?

are you fixing the forks fastening bolts? Basil ? happened to be untwisted. there are bolts for fixing, with holes.

Good evening, Vasily. video very detailed thank you. tell me more from what you can put the retaining ring of the speedometer drive gear. mine broke in half and the gear went into the shank, now disassembled and it is broken. in the store only repair kits without rings.

kharchishin vasily i am from dagestan me zavut karim tell me why the third gear does not switch when you switch from first to fourth then to third and switch normally what is the reason.

I have a Volga 3110, 5-speed gearbox. 4th gear is engaged only with re-gasification and double clutch release, at about 2000 engine rpm. I have been driving this way for a very long time, my hands still could not reach. Now my wife got behind the wheel and the problem became an edge. I will do it myself. tell me what you are preparing for. As I understand it, the synchronization flew.

Good afternoon. I am going through the five-speed gearbox from the Volga (the same as in the video). The output shaft needs to be replaced. In an auto parts store and in online stores, shafts of a NEW SAMPLE are sold, and I have, as I understand it, the old one. Will the new shaft fit and how is it different? Tell me, I’m already completely worn out. I do not want to buy the wrong thing, tk. it is very expensive.

Is it possible to grind a synchro of the old model to the external synchro of a new model. The dimensions allow? How will the brass go then instead of the steel?

Doriy a day when such a problem howls the Gazelle box on central and at 1235 gears on 4 nevoet INTO IT can beat please tell me

why are the persistent crescents of the secondary shaft locked with a ball when I was taking apart my hole, but there is no pin

Nice corkscrew, thanks.

Video (click to play).

good night. on a gazelle, the rear speed jumps off if you hold the lever a little while you start moving and then holds it. does this sync need to be changed or what?

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