In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the Kia Rio gearbox from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
The main malfunctions, for the elimination of which it is necessary to remove the manual transmission from the KIA Rio car:
- increased (compared to the usual) noise;
- Difficult gear shifting;
- spontaneous switching off or fuzzy switching on of gears;
- oil leakage through seals and gaskets.
In addition, the gearbox is removed to replace the clutch, flywheel, and rear oil seal of the engine crankshaft.
USEFUL TIPS:
The work on removing and installing the gearbox is very time consuming, therefore, be sure to first make sure that its malfunctions are not caused by other reasons (insufficient oil level, defects in the clutch release drive, loosening of the gearbox fastening, etc.).
The gearbox is quite heavy and uncomfortable to hold, so it is recommended to remove it with an assistant.
For removing and installing a manual transmission of a KIA Rio car you will need:
- socket heads "10", "12", "14", "17";
1. Disconnect the wire from the negative terminal of the storage battery.
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Fig. 20. M5CF1 gearbox parts of Kia Rio car
1 - back cover; 2 - lock nut, 127–206 Nm; 3 - reverse gear synchronizer clutch; 4 - reverse gear cone bushing; 5 - blocking ring of the synchronizer; 6 - 5th gear synchronizer; 7 - fork of the 5th gear; 8 - a gear wheel of the 5th transfer; 9 - sleeve of the gear wheel of the 5th transfer; 10 - secondary gear wheel of the 5th transfer; 11 - retainer plug, 15–20 Nm, spring and steel ball; 12 - bolt for securing the reverse gear shaft, 18–25 Nm; 13 - gearbox housing; 14 - reverse gear shaft; 15 - intermediate gear wheel of reverse gear; 16 - control unit; 17 - spring setting lever; 18 - 1st / 2nd gear shift rod; 19 - 1st / 2nd gear shift fork; 20 - 5 / reverse gear shift rod; 21 - 5th / reverse gear shift rod lever; 22 - 3rd / 4th gear shift rod; 23 - lever of the shift rod of the 3rd / 4th gear; 24 - 3rd / 4th gear shift fork; 25 - block of gears of the secondary shaft; 26 - block of gears of the input shaft; 27 - differential; 28 - reversing light switch, 18.6–25.5 Nm; 29 - spacer sleeve
Operations for disassembling the Kia Rio gearbox:
- Place the gearbox on the bench. Remove the bearing and the clutch release fork.
- Remove the dipstick for measuring the oil level. Remove the speed sensor.
- Remove the reversing light switch. Remove the back cover.
- To remove the back cover, lightly tap the back cover with a nylon hammer. Do not reuse a loosened locknut.
- Simultaneously engage the gears of the 1st and 2nd gears so that the input shaft of the Kia Rio manual transmission does not turn.
- Bend back the beads of the plate securing the lock nut.
- Unscrew the locknut from the input and output shafts and remove the reverse tapered ring and the synchronizer sleeve from the input shaft.
- Use a fine drift and hammer to knock out the 5th shift fork barrel pin.
- At the same time, remove the synchronizer ring, 5th gear shift fork, 5th gear slip clutch, blocking ring and gear clutch assembly.
- Remove the 5th gear from the pinion shaft. Remove the retainer plug and, using a magnet, remove the spring and steel ball.
- Remove the bolt securing the intermediate shaft of the reverse gear.
- Remove the Kia Rio gearbox housing. Remove the magnet. Remove the intermediate shaft and reverse gear.
- Remove the three screws and remove the control unit. Remove the spring setting lever.
- Disengage the 1st and 2nd gears. Use a fine drift punch and hammer to knock out the 1st / 2nd shift fork cylindrical pin.
- Remove the 1st / 2nd gear stem and fork.
- Use a fine drift punch and hammer to knock out the 3rd / 4th gear cylinder pin, remove the 3rd / 4th gear fork and the 3rd / 4th gear shift lever.
- Remove the 5th / reverse gear rod locking E-ring.
- Use a fine punch and hammer to knock out the 5th / reverse fork barrel pin, remove the 5th / reverse gear fork and the 5th / reverse gear lever.
- Remove the complete input shaft and output shaft at the same time. Remove the differential.
- Before installation, lubricate the outer ring of the differential bearing.
Works on the assembly of the M5CF1 manual transmission for Kia Rio cars:
- Install the differential in the transmission housing.
- Before installation, lubricate the sealing lip of the O-ring.
- Lubricate the second outer bearing ring in the manual transmission housing.
- Assemble the input and output shafts in the gearbox housing.
- Place the 3rd / 4th gear fork on the 3rd / 4th sliding clutch, then insert the 5th / reverse gear stem into the fork and install the 5th / reverse gear stem retaining pin.
- Align the 5th / reverse shift rod lever with the 5th / reverse gear rod and secure with a cylinder pin.
- After installing the 3rd / 4th gear rod into the 3/4 shift fork, install the 3rd / 4th gear fork into the 3/4 shift shaft lever.
- Align the 3rd / 4th gear selector lever with the shaft and secure with a cylinder pin.
- Align the 3rd / 4th gear shift rod with the 3rd / 4th gear shift fork and secure with a cylinder pin.
- Assemble the 1st / 2nd gear shift fork with 1st / 2nd gear slip clutch and install the 1st / 2nd gear stem.
- Align the 1st / 2nd gear shift rod with the 1st / 2nd gear shift fork and secure with a cylinder pin.
- Install the E-ring on the 5th / reverse gear rod of the Kia Rio gearbox.
- Align the reverse gear lever in the projection with the 5th / reverse gear stem lever and install the reverse gear lever on the clutch housing.
- Install a new O-ring on the reverse gear shift shaft.
- Insert the shaft into the reverse gear lever. Insert the pin.
- Install the spring arm and secure with bolts. Install the control box and bolt.
- Fit the intermediate shaft and the reverse gear. Install the magnet.
- Apply a thin layer of sealant to the mating surfaces of the clutch housing and the Kia Rio manual transmission.
- Place the gearbox housing on the clutch housing and secure with bolts.
- Screw in the bolt securing the intermediate shaft of the reverse gear.
- Retainer spring length: 5th / rear year more than 1st / 2nd, 3rd / 4th gear.
- Apply sealant to the thread of the retainer plug. Install the steel ball and spring and screw in the retainer plug. Tightening torque: 15–20 Nm.
- Fit the 5th gear. There are three missing teeth in the reverse gear synchronizer ring.
- Pay attention to the direction of installation of the 5th gear sleeve.
- Install the 5th gear bushing, 5th gear and synchronizer ring
- Install the 5th gear bushing lubrication groove on the 5th gear side.
- Fit the 5th gear fork into the 5th gear synchroniser groove.
- Install the synchroniser ring. Insert the synchroniser sleeve and the reverse cone ring onto the input shaft.
- Secure the 5th gear fork with a cylinder pin.
- Simultaneously engage the 1st and 2nd gears to prevent the transmission input shaft from turning.
- Use the tool to block the input shaft of the Kia Rio gearbox.
- Tighten the lock nut and, to secure it against loosening, bend the collars of the plate fixing the lock nut. Tightening torque: 127-206 Nm
- Use a dial gauge to measure the backlash of the 5th gear and the reverse taper bushing.
- Backlash: 5th gears: 0.07-0.39 mm, Reverse taper sleeve: 0.1-0.25 mm.
- If the backlash exceeds the permissible limits, re-disassemble and assemble the gearbox.
- Clean the sealant from the mating surfaces of the rear cover and the Kia Rio gearbox housing.
- Apply a thin layer of sealant to the mating surfaces of the gearbox housing and rear cover.
- Install the rear cover taking into account the position of the recess for the reverse taper bush and secure with bolts. Tightening torque: 7.8-11.3 Nm
- Insert the washer on the reversing light switch and screw in the switch.
- Install the speed sensor to the speedometer follower. Slide the bushing onto the shift rod.
- Install the bearing and the clutch release fork. Remove the gearbox from the stand.
- Use a screwdriver and a hammer to knock out the outer bearing race of the output shaft from the gearbox housing.
Kia Rio transmission clutch housing
Fig. 21. Kia Rio manual transmission clutch housing and its details
1 - speedometer drive mechanism; 2 - shift lever; 3 - gear shift rod; 4 - plate; 5 - outer ring of the bearing; 6 - bell; 7 - O-ring of the gear shift rod; 8 - a sealing ring of a primary shaft; 9 - the outer ring of the differential bearing; 10 - differential sealing ring; 11 - gasket for adjusting the tightness of the differential bearings; 12 - outer ring of the secondary shaft bearing; 13 - gasket for adjusting the secondary shaft bearing; 14 - gasket for adjusting the input shaft bearing; 15 - connection.
Operations for dismantling the M5CF1 gearbox housing of the Kia Rio car:
- Remove the speedometer drive mechanism.
- Use long jaw pliers to remove the pin.
- Loosen the bolt and remove the lever and the shift rod.
- Loosen the two bolts and remove the bulkhead and gasket.
- Insert a screwdriver into the outer bearing race of the output shaft of the clutch housing.
- Remove the outer bearing ring.
- Use a screwdriver and a hammer to remove the O-ring of the gearshift rod.
- Use a screwdriver to remove the O-ring of the input shaft of the Kia Rio manual transmission.
- Remove the differential seal with a screwdriver.
- Install a puller inside the outer race of the differential bearing.
- Remove the outer bearing ring of the differential.
- After installing the puller in the outer ring of the differential bearing, remove the outer bearing ring and shims from the housing seat.
- Remove the differential seal with a screwdriver.
Work on installing the crankcase of the Kia Rio manual transmission:
Before installing the clutch housing, adjust the bearing preload by selecting and installing shims: input shaft; secondary shaft; differential.
After measuring the preload, use the matched shim as an adjustment.Lubricate the shims and outer bearing races with gearbox oil.
- After installing the shim in the housing of the gearbox, install the outer bearing race of the output shaft.
- Lubricate the outside surface of the oil seal ring with Kia Rio gearbox oil.
- Install the differential oil seal in the gearbox housing.
- Fit the differential oil seal in the clutch housing.
- Install the shim that was taken when adjusting the differential bearing tension.
- After installing the shim in the housing of the gearbox, fit the outer bearing ring of the differential.
- Insert the outer bearing ring into the seat of the clutch housing.
- Install the oil seal.
- Lubricate the output shaft bearing outer ring with oil.
- Fit the socket and the outer ring of the gearbox output shaft bearing of the Kia Rio into the socket of the clutch housing.
- After installing the new gasket, fit the plate and bolt. Tightening torque: 6.8-9.8 Nm.
- Install the protective cover with the vent hole at the bottom.
- Place the cover over the gear shift rod.
- Install the lever and the shift rod into the clutch housing.
- After installing the lever and shift rod, tighten the bolt.
- Install the speedometer drive shaft and gear on the bushing.
- Press a new O-ring onto the bushing of the speedometer.
- Install the speedometer drive mechanism to the clutch housing and secure with the bolt.
Repair of the transmission (gearbox) of the Kia Rio can be major or partial. Repair of the box (manual transmission) Kia Rio must be done only after the initial diagnosis in a car service. Very often, a third-party opinion that the box needs to be repaired turns out to be erroneous. It can also be caused by the clutch, flywheel, and gear selector.
We offer two options for repairing a transmission (manual transmission):
Partial (local) repair of the Kia Rio checkpoint - we remove the box, disassemble it, wash and defect. Troubleshooting a box is determining the cause of its failure, indicating a specific malfunction. A list of spare parts for this malfunction is also provided. After agreement, we make repairs to eliminate the specific malfunction that the client has contacted. We do not touch the rest of the components and spare parts in the gearbox.
Overhaul of the Kia Rio checkpoint - as well as with partial repairs, the box is removed and completely disassembled, washed and defective. In this case, we are not looking for a specific cause of the breakdown, but we are doing a complete defect diagnosis. All units and spare parts with increased wear, all bearings, oil seals and gaskets are determined and changed.
Manual Transmission
1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Remove the coolant expansion tank to access the battery bracket. (Some models)3. Remove the battery holder, battery and battery support.
4. Remove the fresh air intake and air filter assembly.
5. Disconnect the reversing light switch connector.
6. Disconnect the vehicle speed sensor connector located on the right side of the transmission.
7. Remove one bolt and disconnect the ground wire.
8. Disconnect the crankshaft angle sensor connector.
9. After removing the clutch release lever, move the clutch cable to the side. 10. Remove the upper starter mounting bolt. 11. Remove the three bolts securing the clutch housing. 12. Use special tool OK201 170 AA0 to support the engine so that the weight of the engine can be supported by the tool.13. Raise the vehicle and secure it to the stands.
14. Remove both front wheels.
15. Remove the screws and remove both splash guards.
sixteen.Remove the two bolts and four nuts and remove the engine protection plate.
17. Install a pan under the transmission oil drain plug.
18. Remove the oil drain plug and drain the oil from the transmission. 19. Disconnect the gear selection rod and the gear change rod from the transmission.20. Remove the two bolts securing the support No. 1 of the power unit.
21. Remove the three bolts securing the support No. 2 of the power unit.
22. Remove the nuts securing the front longitudinal rods.23. Remove the anti-roll bar and anti-roll bar shackles.
24. Remove the cotter pins and unscrew the nuts securing the ends of the steering rods to the steering knuckles.
25. Using the special tool OK670 321 019, disconnect the left and right ends of the steering rods from the steering knuckles. 26. Remove the tie bolts securing the pivot pins to the steering knuckles on both sides of the car.27. Using a pry bar, press the lower levers down and separate the pivot pins from the steering knuckles on both sides of the car.
Do not damage the protective cover of the front suspension lower arm pivot.
28. Insert a pry bar between the inner CV joint of the drive shaft and the gearbox and lightly hit the mount to remove the drive shaft from the gearbox.When removing the drive shaft from the gearbox, do not apply too much force at once, but increase the applied force gradually.
To prevent damage to the outer CV joint of the drive shaft, tie up the drive shaft with steel wire.29. Unscrew the lower starter mounting bolt and remove the starter.
30. Remove the three lower clutch housing mounting bolts, then support the transmission with a jack and remove the last two clutch housing mounting bolts.31. Carefully separate the transmission from the engine and slowly lower it under the vehicle.
1. Raise the transmission using a jack and place it under the vehicle.
2. Slowly lifting and moving towards the engine, reinstall the transmission. Secure the transmission to the engine with five bolts threaded through the clutch housing.Upper bolts 1, 2, 3, 4 (4ЕА): 64–89 N • m
Bottom bolts 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 (5ЕА): 37–52 N • m
4. Remove the plastic plugs OK201 270 014 from the transmission.
5. Install the starter and install the lower starter mounting bolt.
6. Install the circlip to the inner end of the drive shaft.7. Push the drive shaft into the gearbox with the cutout in the circlip at the top.
8. Install the left and right lower arm ball joints in the knuckles and secure them with the tie bolts.9. Install the pins of the ball joints of the left and right ends of the steering rods in the steering knuckles and secure them with nuts. Tightening torque: 30-44 N • m
10. Use split pins to secure the nuts against loosening.
11. Install the left and right stabilizer shackles and secure.
12. Install the longitudinal rods and secure them with nuts. 13. Install power package support # 2 and secure with bolts and nuts. Torque: 14. Install support # 1 of the power unit.15. Connect a rod of a gear change and a rod of a choice of transfers.
16. Install the oil drain plug into the transmission.
17. Install the engine guard plate and secure with bolts and nuts. Torque:Bolt and nut for fastening the plate: 47-66 N • m
Nuts for fastening supports No. 1 and No. 2: 37–57 N • m
18. Install both mudguards and secure them with screws.
19. Install the front wheels.
21. Remove special tool OK201 170 AA0 that supported the engine.
22. Install the three bolts securing the clutch housing to the engine block.
23. Install the two upper starter mounting bolts.
24. Install the release lever.
25. Connect the crankshaft angle sensor connector.
26. Connect the ground wire and secure with the bolt.
27. Connect the vehicle speed sensor connector.
28. Connect the reversing light switch connector.
29.Install the air filter housing.
30. Connect the engine air temperature sensor connector.
31. Connect the air flow meter sensor connector.
32. Install the fresh air intake and secure it with the bolt and nut.
33. Connect first of all the wire to the positive terminal of the storage battery, then to the negative one.
34. Fill the transmission with oil.
35. Road test the vehicle and check the fluid levels.
Automatic transmission
Automatic transmission
Automatic transmission
Automatic transmission
Disassemble the automatic transmission in a place protected from dust to avoid contamination of the transmission parts.
When disassembling, check the condition of the transmission parts for wear and damage.
Do not use rags when disassembling the transmission, as the fibers of the rags can clog the fluid passages.
Some parts are similar to each other, so when disassembling, arrange them so that they do not get confused.
Remove the control valve block and clean it completely if the clutch or brake band is burnt or the quality of the automatic transmission fluid has deteriorated.
Wear goggles when cleaning parts with compressed air.
17. Remove bolts A, B and C and remove the brackets shown in the figure.
Bolt length (measured from the base of the head):
25. Remove the forward / reverse clutch:
- remove the turbine wheel shaft retaining ring;
- lift the forward / reverse clutch assembly and remove it from the transmission.
26. Remove the small sun gear and clutch # 1.
- squeeze the servo piston and remove the retaining ring;
- remove the servo holder, piston and spring.
31. Remove the # 2 one-way clutch and planetary assembly:
- remove the retaining ring;
- remove the one-way clutch No. 2 together with the planetary assembly;
- remove the friction plate.
32. Remove the inner gear:
- remove the retaining ring;
- remove the inner gear from the output housing.
33. Remove the clutch block 3-4:
- remove the O-ring from the turbine shaft on the side of the converter;
- remove the turbine shaft to remove the clutch block 3-4;
- remove the clutch block 3-4 from the turbine shaft.
34. Remove the bolts (from the converter side - eight bolts and from the gearbox side - seven bolts) and remove the gearbox housing by hitting it with a plastic hammer.
35. Remove the output housing from the output gear.
37. Remove the bearing housing:
- knock out the cylindrical pin with a hammer and a round drift;
- Remove the eleven bolts securing the bearing housing;
- remove the bearing housing by hitting it with a plastic hammer.
39. Remove the bearing cover:
- unscrew the bearing cap fastening bolts;
- remove the converter housing with the special tool OK130 175 011A;
- Press the bearing cover out of the converter housing.
Outside diameter of bearings and rolling surfaces
- Planned work.
- Unscheduled maintenance.
Scheduled work includes the replacement of naturally worn parts. Unscheduled work is a premature failure of parts and units of a car: factory defects, road accidents.
Any car has its own strengths and weaknesses. Despite the fact that Korean manufacturers are constantly working on fixing Rio problems, there are nodes, parts that are more prone to failure than others - they need service.
- Rio gearbox.
- Cooling radiator.
- Rio fuel system.
- Electrician Rio.
- Body problems.
- most often, drivers are faced with slipping when switching;
- it happens that when gaining speed, vibration is felt;
- one of the signs of unstable operation of the KIA RIO car gearbox when picking up speed appears jerks;
- sometimes it is impossible to engage the desired gear.
If you find these "symptoms of a car disease", you need to put the car at a service station. Considering that the maintenance of the checkpoint is a complex, troublesome business that requires knowledge, time, certain practical experience - KIA repair, it is better to entrust its maintenance to the workshop masters.
Signs of a radiator problem are:
- antifreeze leak;
- the power unit of the KIA Rio heats up quickly, while slowly cooling;
- The most common problem faced by Rio owners is radiator contamination.
A spontaneous leak from the fuel tank is a sign of problems in the KIA RIO fuel system. If a puddle of gasoline is noticeable under the gas tank in a parking lot or a car stop, then the tank itself or the filling pipe is damaged. With such a breakdown, the operation of the vehicle is undesirable. It is necessary to carry out repair work - replace the problem tank or fuel pipe.
The KIA Rio's electrical system is protected against possible overloads by fuses. One unit is located near the driver's seat, the other is located in the engine compartment of the car. Bulbs often fail, so having a set of fuses will not be superfluous. Moreover, the replacement of the fuse can be carried out independently, without resorting to the help of the workshop staff.
Be careful - do not confuse the standard fuses with the main one, which is responsible for the high amperage, when replacing the fuses yourself!
Restoring the KIA RIO body deformed in an accident is a separate topic that requires careful consideration. In this case, the complex of measures for the restoration of the body must definitely be entrusted to professionals.
There are two options for resolving this issue. You can carry out maintenance, KIA RIO yourself, saving your "hard-earned money". This requires a place, knowledge and of course time.
It is important to use quality spare parts for repairs. You can go to the site and place an order or find out the address of the nearest car service, where you will be provided with high-quality repairs.
Or go the second way - give your transport to specialists. Then the quality of the work performed will be an order of magnitude higher. Responsibility for the repair of KIA Rio will fall on the shoulders of service station masters who have experience, special tools, practical knowledge, and a good modern base.
The second option for repairing KIA RIO is the most preferable. The fact is that KIA Rio, in terms of its quality indicators, is now rapidly approaching the models of Japanese brands. The popularity of Korean cars is constantly growing in our country. This is evidenced by a steady increase in sales. Korean specialists are constantly improving their cars, bringing them to world standards. They are working on eliminating the shortcomings of the KIA RIO, correcting the weak points of the structure.
Car manufacturer Kia is the second largest in South Korea and the seventh in the world. Part of the Hyundai concern. The brand is quite recently present on the territory of Russia and Sochi, but quickly found demand for its cars and firmly established itself in the market. Cars from Kia are cheap, of high quality and correspond to all modern concepts of how a car should look and behave. The automatic transmission for Kia is produced by the Japanese company Jatco; there are also Hyundai transmissions developed in partnership with the Japanese manufacturer Mitsubishi. Kia transmissions are quite reliable and durable, but demanding on oil quality and sensitive to overheating. Repair of automatic transmission Kia in Russia and Sochi is quite well mastered and will not cause trouble.
Kia Sid cars were equipped with a four-speed modern automatic transmission A4CF1. These automatic transmissions are manufactured by Hyundai and are designed for small front-wheel drive cars with engine volumes up to two liters. The boxes from Hyundai are in many ways similar to their Japanese "teacher" Mitsubishi, but along with them the Hyundai automatic transmissions have outgrown the "teachers" a lot and they have many good and high-quality developments of their own.
The design of this automatic transmission is based on the Japanese F4A42 for budget cars. Initially, she had a number of "childhood diseases", which were corrected in the second modification. The latest generations of these automatic transmissions are quite reliable and their service life is comparable to the service life of the Kia Sid car. The lifespan of the Kia Sid box is about 200,000 kilometers in Sochi.
The first moments of servicing a Kia Sid automatic transmission usually include changing the oil and filters. The Kia Sid filter is disposable, it changes when the oil is changed or any repairs.
Repair kits for the Kia Sid automatic transmission are rarely ordered yet - the boxes are quite new and did not have time to leave more than 200,000 kilometers for most owners, and they just save. The clutches, as elsewhere, change only as a set.
The main weak point of this automatic transmission is in the valve body and solenoids. They are unnecessarily loaded and their resource is small. The line pressure solenoids and the pressure regulator are the first to fail. Solenoids are used cheaply, do not like dirty oil and work no more than seven years.
The solenoid valve or its wiring often breaks. It's easier to replace the solenoids with a set and forget about them for another five years. Poor wiring can also be the subject of increased attention.Any valve body, especially on modern automatic transmissions, does not like overheating and dirty oil. The problem of overheating is relevant for warm regions of Russia, for example, in Sochi.
If the pump is operated with a leaking stuffing box for a long time, it is likely to fail. Forced blocking of the torque converter, poor cooling system of the automatic transmission, setting the electronic control unit to squeeze out all the power of their box does not greatly extend its life. The oil gets dirty very quickly from which all the insides of the box suffer and breakdowns occur.
Watch a video of Kia Sid repair
Kia Spectra cars were equipped with a four-speed automatic transmission A4Af-3, produced by Hyundai. The automatic transmission was developed in 2000 for front-wheel drive middle-class cars (according to Korean manufacturers) with engines up to two liters. The design of the Kia Spectra automatic transmission is a modified Japanese development from Mitsubishi called F4A32.
The main repair kits for the Kia Spectra transmission can be ordered non-original, they are cheaper and of acceptable quality.
The Kia Spectra automatic transmission filter is disposable, closed felt, cannot be washed. The brake band in the Kia Spectra automatic transmission is a consumable and changes at every opportunity. The clutches of the Kia Spectra automatic transmission can only be changed as a set. Most often, the clutch packs responsible for moving forward are lit on the Kia Spectra automatic transmission. Most often, the clutch packs responsible for moving forward are lit on the Kia Spectra automatic transmission. In the wake of them, if not changed, drums may fail, bushings turn, oil starvation begins and the rest of the Kia Spectra automatic transmission mechanisms burn out.
The pump bushing, and the entire set of bushings, often fails on the Kia Spectra automatic transmission and is changed as a set.
A4Af-3 automatic transmission for Kia Spectra
The stator or drum can be damaged in the pump. If the driver did not notice the breakdown, then the Kia Spectra automatic transmission will travel some distance in Sochi without oil, which will lead to dire consequences. When repairing a pump, it is worth replacing the sleeve with a bearing - they are much more reliable.
The entire set of solenoids is often changed along with the wiring. If one of the solenoids is out of order, it means that the rest will soon run out of their short life. Compared to the old generations of Kia Spectra automatic transmissions, the load on the solenoids has increased significantly, and their workmanship, on the contrary, has dropped. Sometimes the problem can be diagnosed by error codes or abnormal operation of third gear (hard shifting).
Of iron on this automatic transmission, the differential, its mounting bracket and plastic bearing quickly fail.
Watch video repair Kia Spectra
The Kia Sorento car is equipped with five-speed gearboxes RE5R05A from the Japanese "daughter" of Nissan Jatco. It has been installed since 2000 on powerful rear-wheel drive cars with an engine capacity of up to six liters.
The Kia Sorento transmission is very reliable and made with a large margin of safety. The first series of Kia Sorento automatic transmissions had an unpleasant feature, in which the transmission fluid was mixed with antifreeze, but later this defect was eliminated.
The big problem with the Kia Sorento automatic transmission was the hydraulic block. Since 2004, it has undergone constant modifications. The last modification of 2007, finally, turned out to be successful, and now these transmissions can compete in terms of fuel efficiency and shift speed with robotic gearboxes popular in Russia and Sochi, ahead of them in terms of resource and shift comfort.
The filter of this automatic transmission is reusable and must be flushed, except for cases related to contamination of the box with products of the decay of clutches.
To extend the life of the Kia Sorento automatic transmission, experts recommend installing a main fine filter.
Kia Sorento with automatic transmission RE5R05A
The valve body in the old version of the Kia Sorento box was and remains a big headache for repair specialists.Too aggressive settings do not spare the gearbox and quickly wear out the torque converter lock, the remains of which get into the oil and wash out the hydraulic plate channels.
DO NOT SPEND MONEY ON REPAINING!
Now you yourself can remove any scratch from the body of your car in just 5 seconds.
Watch a video of the repair of Kia Sorento
Kia Rio cars were equipped with four-speed gearboxes from the Japanese manufacturer Mazda. The beginning of the installation of these automatic transmissions dates back to 1987, however, the automatic transmission has undergone constant improvements and modifications in the following years. The Kia Rio automatic transmission filter has not structurally changed since 1993 and Mazda cars.
Every third repair of the Kia Rio automatic machine ends with the replacement of oil seals and gaskets of the torque converter, pump and valve cover. These are the weak points of the Kia Rio automatic transmission, due to which oil flows out of the box. The clutches of the Kia Rio automatic transmission are traditionally replaced with a set.
Often, due to wear of the solenoids of the Kia Rio automatic transmission, shocks occur when shifting gears, they are changed as a set.
Bushings and seals on older vehicles fail faster due to vibration.
Kia Rio four-speed gearbox
Video (click to play). |
Kia's transmissions are a lot like the sophisticated transmissions from Mitsubishi. Do-it-yourself repairs are possible only if you have knowledge, experience, a warm box with a lift and the necessary set of tools. Therefore, it is better to entrust this business to professionals who can be found in any city of Russia from Vladivostok to Sochi.