DIY repair of the Mitsubishi Karisma gearbox

1. Drain the transmission oil.

2. Remove the lower guard.

3. Remove the air filter assembly.

4. Remove the battery and battery tray.

5. Remove the fuel vapor canister.

6. Remove the shift rods assembly.

7. Remove the charge air aftercooler air tube (1997 models).

Rice. 11.13. Gearbox mounting elements: A - only F5MR3 gearbox; B - only gearbox F5MV1; 1 - nut (48 N • m); 2 - bolt (30 N • m); 3 - ground wire; 4 - clutch slave cylinder; 5 - transmission control cables (F5MV1); 6 - bolt (10 N • m); 7 - engine crankshaft position sensor (F5MV1); 8 - bolt (56 N • m); 9 - nut (118 N • m); 10 - locking flange of the gearbox; 11 - gearbox support bracket; 12 - nut (62 N • m); 13 - the lower bracket of the transmission support; 14 - upper gearbox mounting bolts (50 N • m); 15 - vehicle speed sensor (F5MR3); 16 - starter; 17 - speedometer cable connection; 18 - O-ring gasket; 19 - cotter pin; 20 - bolt (49 N • m); 21 - connector for reversing light switch; 22 - complete fuel filter (F5MR3); 23 - nut (25 N • m)

8. Remove the cotter pin 19 (Fig. 11.13), disconnect the speedometer drive cable 17 from the gearbox and remove the O-ring 18.

9. Disconnect the electrical connector 21 of the reversing light switch.

10. Disconnect the transmission control cables 5 (F5MV1 transmission).

11. Remove the bolt and disconnect wire 3 "weight" (gearbox F5MV1).

12. Unscrew the bolt and remove the engine crankshaft position sensor 7 (transmission F5MV1).

13. Unscrew the bolts, remove the starter 16 together with the wires attached to it and fix it inside the engine compartment.

14. Remove the clutch slave cylinder 4 without disconnecting the tubes and hoses of the hydraulic drive, and tie it to the chassis of the car.

15. Disconnect the vehicle speed sensor electrical connector (F5MR3 transmission).

16. Remove the upper connecting bolts 14 of the gearbox assembly.

17. Remove the bolts and disconnect the fuel filter assembly from the vehicle body, but do not disconnect the fuel hoses from it (transmission F5MR3).

18. Carefully lift the gearbox with a hydraulic jack, then unscrew the nut, remove the bolt, remove the gearbox retaining flanges and disconnect the gearbox support bracket 11.

19. Install a special tool (engine lifter with hand hoist and traverse) on the vehicle to support the engine.

20. Remove the bolts of the lower bracket 13 of the transmission support.

21. Raise the car on a lift.

22. Unscrew the nuts and disconnect the rods of the anti-roll bar 6 (Fig. 11.14).

23. Remove the retainer 3 fastening the brake hose.

24. Disconnect the wheel speed sensor connector 9 (vehicles with ABS).

25. Using a special tool, loosen the nut fastening the ball joint pin and, using a puller, disconnect the tie rod end from the steering knuckle, then finally unscrew the nut.

Hang the puller from a wire or cord to prevent it from bouncing.

26. Using a special tool, loosen the nut 1 of the ball joint of the lower suspension arm and, using a puller, disconnect the lower suspension arm from the steering knuckle, then finally unscrew the nut.

27. Unscrew the nuts and remove the anti-roll bar 2 (F5MV1 gearbox).

28. Unscrew the bolts and remove the longitudinal beam 35 assembly.

29. Disconnect the wheel drive shaft together with the hub and steering knuckle.

30. Unscrew the bolts and remove the heat shield (transmission F5MR3).

31.Suspend the removed wheel drive shaft inside the wheel arch with a wire so as to prevent strong bending in the constant velocity joints.

32. Remove the sealant and use a drift to drive out the split pin 14.

33. Disconnect the drive shaft 15 together with the hub and steering knuckle.

34. Hang the removed wheel drive shaft inside the wheel arch with a wire so as not to allow strong bending in the CV joints.

Rice. 11.15. Removing the drive shaft of the right wheel: A - location of the gearbox; 1 - mount

35. To disconnect the drive shaft, insert a pry bar between the gearbox housing and the shaft as shown in fig. 11.15 (gearbox F5MV1).

Do not disconnect the drive shaft from the steering knuckle and hub. Always use a pry bar, otherwise the CV joint tripod (T.J.) of the drive shaft will be damaged.

36. Hang the removed wheel drive shaft with a wire so as not to allow strong bending in the CV joints (gearbox F5MV1).

37. Cover the gearbox with a rag to prevent foreign particles and objects from getting inside the gearbox.

38. Carefully lift the transmission with a hydraulic jack and remove the transmission support bracket (F5MV1 transmission).

39. Unscrew the bolts and remove the bolts of the bracket 17 (see Fig. 11.14) (F5MV1 gearbox).

40. Unscrew the nuts and disconnect the front exhaust pipe 24 (F5MV1 gearbox).

41. Unscrew the bolts and remove the bent spacer (F5MR3 gearbox).

42. Unscrew the bolts and remove the rear support 31 of the power unit (gearbox F5MV1).

43. Unscrew the bolts and remove the gearbox mounting bracket 20 (SOHC engine).

44. Unscrew the bolts and remove the front cover 21 of the clutch housing (SOHC engine).

45. Remove the lower gearbox connecting bolts 13.

46. ​​Remove the gearbox 12 assembly.

Installation is carried out in the reverse order of removal, taking into account the following.

1. After applying multipurpose grease to the spline of the drive shaft, align the split pin hole on the shaft end with the split pin hole on the gearbox end of the shaft, and then install the drive shaft.

2. If the split pin hole is slightly misaligned, rotate the drive shaft 180 ° and then try to install it again.

Due to the fact that the drive shaft has an odd number of splines, the pin hole will be offset by half the diameter if the shaft is rotated 180 °.

3. Apply Mitsubishi genuine part MD970389 or similar to the split pin and then insert it into the drive shaft.

4. After installing the pin, apply sealant to both sides of the pin hole to completely cover them.

Rice. 11.16. Installation of the gearbox locking flange: A - engine location; 1 - transmission support stopper; 2 - transmission support bracket; 3 - arrow

5. Install the gearbox support stop so that the arrow on the flange points in the direction shown in fig. 11.16.

Rice. 11.17. Projection distance of the stabilizer bolt: A = 22 mm

6. Tighten the self-locking nut so that the stabilizer bolt protrudes above the nut as shown in fig. 11.17 (gearbox F5MV1).

7. Install the shift rod assembly.

9. Install the battery.

10. Install the air filter assembly.

11. Install the lower guard.

12. Fill with gear oil.

13. Check the operation of the gear lever.

Upstairs. Mitsubishi Carisma ›Logbook› Adjustment of the wings of the checkpoint. That owner assured that everything is in order with the box, you just need to adjust the wings. At that time, I still did not have a special idea of ​​this backstage, I myself have never studied.

Mitsubishi Carisma “Type 59” ›Logbook› Backstage repair at renoshnoy gearbox. I asked what the problem was, he said that this was a feature of these gearboxes, and he asked to adjust it this way, they say, here either the 5th gear is normally stuck, or.

Manuals ￫ Mitsubishi ￫ Carisma. one.Loosen the bolt 24 of the terminal connection of the shift rod with the rocker 22. 2. Remove the gear lever handle and the cover.

It often happens that the indistinct switching on of speeds occurs due to the fault of the bushings on the gearshift rods, I explained to him the essence of the problem, said that they wrote about this on the forum. The original boot is very expensive. Judging by the photo, this is a boot from the Volga. The curtain corroded and bent, after its repair and installation in place.

Another malfunction fix from the old master. When we looked at the car before buying it on the first trip, I did not like how the gears were turned on. That owner assured that everything is in order with the box, you just need to adjust the wings.

Then I did not yet have a special idea about this stage, I myself have never been involved in the repair of the transmission. After the purchase, after the repair of the central lock, I decided to take up the wings. Previously rummaged on the Internet in search of similar problems on the club forums. Everyone repeats one thing - change the bushings of the wings and you will be happy! I drove my Karya into the pit. Climbed under it ... took apart the wings from the side of the lever.

I did not see anything critical there, but for myself I sketched a polyurethane sleeve with dimensions to try to find one in city stores. The search was unsuccessful. A similar search was carried out a week later in Almaty. Upon arrival home, in Kostanay, I decided to order a familiar turner to grind such a sleeve. When parsing the wings from the side of the checkpoint, an interesting fact was discovered - there was only one bushing there should be two.

Following the example of the existing sleeve, they turned another one to match it. However, I was embarrassed by the fact that in the free position the gearbox lever was slightly tilted to the right. I went to test my "new" transmission. It turned out that if you pull the gearshift lever all the way to the left and forward without lifting a special stop on the lever rod, which is responsible for turning on the reverse speed, the reverse speed turns on!

Arriving neatly to the house, having a bite to eat and playing "Taxi", it was necessary to pick up my sister and my mother from work again went to the pit. I adjusted the position of the lever by rotating the stage itself around its axis, having previously released the adjusting bolt.

Everything fell into place and now I have a normal transmission again. Unfortunately, there are no photos. But a description of all the operations performed with photo reports can be easily found on the Internet at specialized forums.

It would be nice, of course, to describe all the operations performed with photo reports, or at least a link to these forums.

Not a nail, not a rod for you guys! Further Problems with turnover!

Mitsubishi Carisma ** ›Logbook› Gearbox repair. Vladmesh last online more than a month ago. Yes, the car is Mitsuba Karisma.

I am repairing gearboxes for the 3rd time I meet with a defect, all gears are turned on but the car does not go. I know the defect in the gearbox in the differential on the left.

Mitsubishi Carisma eared :) ›Logbook› Gearbox repair, hello Renault! Two differential bearings: ABS06 AB Two output shaft bearings RNUS01 AB.

Posted 28 January - Unscrew the bolts and remove the front cover of the 21 clutch housing SOHC engine .. Dujnikov last online 1 day ago. When turning on the 4th and 5th in the box, knocks can be heard and no more .. The main gear housing O-ring of the drive shaft flange - remove with a VW tool

Posted on January 28 - Please tell me where it is better to go for the diagnosis of manual transmission restyled Karizma 1.6? There are many places on the Internet, but I would like to come to understanding people. Problems began in the box, first in 5th gear - stopping to press on the gas, the box began to howl, pressing on the gas, the howl died down, releasing the gas again - the gear took off.

When trying to insert the 5th back, releasing the clutch, the gear flew out immediately. If you return the 4th, then from it the transition to the 5th was carried out, but the story of howling repeated .. With such a problem I drove a car a couple of times, the total distance was not more than km, while trying not to switch to the 5th ..

But further more I stopped at an intersection and realized that all the transmissions had disappeared, except for the 3rd.The handle is like a stone, it is inserted only into the third, the rest are not at all. I drove to see the car for my acquaintances, not experts in the boxes, they raised it, manually switched gears, directly behind the curtain from below - everything except the 4th and 5th began to turn on.

When you turn on the 4th and 5th, knocks can be heard in the box and nothing more .. I would be grateful for advice on how best to be and where to go and diagnose.