In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the nissan terrano 2 gearbox from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
There are a lot of letters. And this is just the beginning.
In the course of writing, I will delete or supplement. I am writing exclusively, as a diary, only here, at the autoforum. There are smart people, maybe they can tell you some useful things, like springs and other little things. “Sell” to the advisers and something like that - you better keep silent.
Long and dreary way became the owner of the brainchild of Japanese engineering and Spanish assembly. The name of this brainchild is Nissan Terrano II r20, in a five-door petrol version. The year is not very terry, but soon this car can buy cigarettes and alcohol. In short, 1997 release.
The history of the car is dark and harsh. Five owners, originally sold in the Ufa car dealership new. I took it after the fifth owner, ours, local.
Repainted in white from green, as the front fenders and tailgate were changed due to through holes in places not specified by the manufacturer. It was painted roughly, with streaks, it was also not pre-processed with high quality, but in general, exactly what you need, so as not to regret driving through the bushes.
Those advantages that prompted the purchase of this trough. I will add as I remember:
- Large salon. No, he, of course, not like a Kruzak or a patriot, but he is really big!
- Frame. Rotten in places, rusty in places, but the frame. What else do you need for an SUV?
- Tosionnaya suspension is not a muzzle.
- Relatively inexpensive maintenance and spare parts. Oha, schaz. Until he poked his head around, I thought so. I compare, however, with a cornfield, but an Oise. Compared to subarik, yes, not expensive.
- A razdatka with a ponzhaykoy, the front end is rigidly connected. Well, as soon as I buy the repair kits, so will the front end.
- Rear limited slip differential. I don’t know in what state, but it works.
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Video (click to play). |
Cons noticed right away:
- Gasoline KA24E does not go. Yes, he is, DOESN'T GO!
- The front anti-roll bar is mounted on very flimsy, seemingly, supports.
- In the presence of a rear anti-roll bar. Interestingly, what if you take it off? In the same field it is not and nothing, it goes. There are bump stops next to the springs, they will not allow the shock absorber to be torn off. Or will they?
– There are a lot of fixes in PTS.
The next item on the list was to change the oil and solve the triple and idle float problem.
In the book and on the forum, I read where, how much and what to pour into the units and went to the store. Upon arrival at the garage, it turned out that the money had become much less. I am glad that not every month these costs will be.
- Polish air filter - 230
- alternator belt, air conditioner, pump - 1350
- oil in the engine 5L. Shell Helix Ultra - 5000
- flushing oil - 300
- some Korean oil filter - 300
- oil in manual transmission (I can't remember which one) 3L - 3300
- oil type Dextron in hand-out box 3l - 3900
- oil in the rear gearbox (I can't remember which one) for gearboxes with LSD 3l - 3600
- oil remained in the front gearbox from the old days 3L - 2100
Total: 20,080 rubles.
Along the way, I bought light bulbs in the front turn signals for 10 rubles a piece.
With separate obscene words and rays of endless diarrhea towards the designers, the process of replacing the oil filter should be mentioned. In short, two hours to change the oil in the engine flew by like a minute. Along the way, I replaced the air filter. The old one was in such a state that fields and grass would grow.
While climbing in the pit, I assessed the condition of the rubber bands at the back. Nothing, I thought it would be much worse. Only silent blocks of shock absorbers, the rest are generally without visible damage. No backlash, squeaks, etc. It was decided to change the shock absorbers and springs.
According to one respected forum member (Advocate 
) it turned out that when installing the springs from the shnivy, we get a small tail lift. - rear suspension springs for VAZ 2123 two-line springs - 1400
- rubber spacers on the spring VAZ 2101 - 200
- rear shock absorbers Plaza (standard, orange) "GAZelle" - 3200
- shock absorbers front Plaza (X-drive, gray) "Sable" - 3200
- pullers for springs (Seryoga152, I remember everything!
) – 600 - a set of bushings, tubes, nuts and bolts - 200
- large cylinder WD40 - 350
Total, 9150 rubles.
Spent half a day with a friend in the garage. The frame at the back, just behind the spring brackets, is rotten through and through. We managed to scald it on the right, but didn't have enough time on the left.
- minor frame repairs - 500.
Installing the rear shocks turned into a key dance for the whole day. The bottom nuts turned off without too much trouble using a socket wrench and extension tube. The upper brackets of the shock absorbers are located in a place that cannot be reached except with a spanner wrench. At the same time, it turned out that someone had already tried to unscrew the right nut with an open-end wrench and the visible two planes were specifically torn off to the "ring" state. I unscrewed the left nut without any problems, immediately took out the spring and put in a new one. Yes, I know the springs shoot. But I didn’t know that they would tear off the brake pipes. I had to go to the store for a new pipe.
- brake pipe from some foreign car - 250
- brake fluid DOT4 Xado - 300
In total, curvature cost 550.
Left spring and shock absorber installed. Yes, I forgot to say. Native Japanese KYB shock absorbers were completely dead. With a hand effortlessly, the stem pushes against the stop. Didn't come back.
For installation, the bracket had to be processed with a grinder, since it was 6mm wider on Gazel shock absorbers.
Remembering the time of study at the school, and especially tight proctology and gynecology, I managed to saw the nut on the upper bracket of the right shock absorber. Along the way, I saw nothing off and did not set fire. The fingers, by the way, are also all in place in the original configuration and are almost intact. Without any torment and excesses, I stuck in the spring and shock absorber. I checked all the nuts and lowered the jack.
Fuck! How to get out of the garage now ?!
When I drove in, the distance from the roof to the gate was
7 cm. The roof is now 2 cm higher. Okay, bullshit, a couple of sandbags and the problem is solved. It remains to change the front shock absorbers and everything in a bunch. Ipat, I would have known what would happen, I would not have thought so.
After reading the forums, I decided on my own, at my own peril and risk, to solve the problem of XX.
Having removed the "pan" from the throttle assembly, I found the cause of the air leak. The native pad fell apart in tatters from old age.
- Air filter box gasket. Delivery from the UAE. The term is 10-12 days. 650
Yeah, here's the throttle. OU. Everything is in the crap, as one of my colleagues says, who loves all kinds of verbal perversion.
- liquid for cleaning the carburetor - 150
- brush 20mm, synthetic - 25
- microfiber cloth - 50.
He sprinkled it on the flap, waddled it with a brush, erased it with a new microfiber. I repeated the procedure until the damper was mirror-clear. I opened it a little, processed all the edges and that's it, wherever I got it. I unscrewed the MAF and did not see the sensor itself under a layer of soot and dirt. With a jet from a distance I washed everything to the state of "new", put everything in place, assembled it, started it up. Here it is, the result, seen instantly. The rpm is 800 and the arrow does not move anywhere, when you press the pedal, the rpm rises instantly and without tension. Rolled. The engine does not dull, does not twitch. Beauty.
The front shock absorber on the left brought a day and a half of agony. The lower bracket is U-shaped, with a nut welded on the right side, which is under the semiaxis. When unscrewing the bolt, with a pitiful creak, the “17” head turned into an opening flower. The last one.
- head "17", 2 pieces - 88.
With a new tool, I tightened up and turned my head off to a bolt. Proctologically, with the help of a grinder, it was possible to cut the shock absorber itself. There is almost no space there at all, on all sides of the piece of iron. It was then that I learned how a millimeter disk flies apart. Wailing splinters from his fingers, he picked out the rest of the day, simultaneously licking up the rest of the abrasions.
The next day, I sawed off the bracket on the shock absorber and, finally, the nut. I must say that Russian automakers copy foreign spare parts without any tricks.Having turned the shock absorber bracket to the required width, two rubber bushings and a tube from some of our brands fit perfectly. The bolt М12х55х1.25, according to all the characteristics, fits into the bracket on the lever, the shock absorber is not without groans put into place. While I was thinking, my hands did everything themselves. I had to take it off, because I remembered two sets of upper arm silent blocks. I removed the right shock absorber without any problems, but I had to cut the same welded nut, since the holes in the bracket were not aligned.
I will not forget this ass with the removal of the axle of the upper levers for a long time. Broke the balloon. With your hands.
- balloon mount "17, 19, 21, adapter", reinforced - 310
- head "21" and "22", 2 pcs - 200
I rolled two ratchet extensions, never bought new ones.
On the right side, changing the silent blocks and putting everything together, there were no problems when the left side gave a surprise. The axle was bent on one side. Not fatal, but it was enough to break the thread.
- used axle of the front upper arm on the left (ISMA, thanks!) - 2000
In the store, while there was an opportunity, I ordered a release bearing. And once the box is removed, at the same time change the clutch. I was horrified by the prices of important pieces of iron. Generator belt tensioning mechanism assembled - 7.5tr. No, I'll take off the old one and pick up the bearing.
- release bearing not original, Japan - 2800
- clutch disc not original, Japan - 2900
- clutch basket not original, Japan - 8900
- clutch replacement, work - 5000
Total grip: 19,600
The total sum of money invested from the first day, excluding gasoline, beer, etc.: 75,153 rubles
Added to this:
-front pads - 2500
-Stretch of the transverse stability lever - 300
- top ball - 800
-lower ball - 900
- exhaust manifold gaskets - 1000
- pendulum arm bushings - a pair of medical clips (chipanddeil, Thank you!
) Total: 9750
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13.07.2015
I came to the store for spare parts. Sat down, won't start. Spins to idle without any sneezes and other paraphernalia of grasping. Thank you gunslinger'Y told me where to look first. I went, bought a short screwdriver, removed the ignition distributor cover. And there is. Nagar. I cleaned it and it worked half a turn.
- ignition distributor cover, original - 1100
In the evening, I wrote an instruction with photographs for cleaning the throttle valve and mass air flow sensor, posted it on the terranoirk. A lot of viewing, no one wrote any comments. I would like to believe that I was not mistaken with the descriptions.
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15.07.2015
Having taken the distributor cover and the input shaft bearing, I ordered both ball ones on the right side.
- top ball - 800
-lower ball - 900
Tired of the sagging driver's door, bought reinforced m10 washers, set everything up. As a result, all doors open on one horizontal plane. Close with a slight push. Cases for 20 minutes.
-reinforced washer, galvanized, m10, 10pcs - 50.
Specifications 5-Speed 012
Do not lubricate the gear lever linkage.
GEAR LEVER LEVER, ADJUSTMENT / CHECK
Installation is carried out in the reverse order of removal.
Please note the following when installing:
- check that the centering sleeves are installed correctly.
- install the clutch slave cylinder in place using the lever so that the bolt can be inserted easily. Warning
The bolt for the clutch slave cylinder has a pointed end to facilitate installation.
Tightening torques for screw connections
FIXING THE TRANSMISSION TO THE ENGINE
1 = bolt M12 x 70
2 = bolt M12 x 85
3 = bolt M12 x 100
4 = bolt M8 x 15
1 = bolt M12 x 70
2 = bolt M12 x 80
3 = bolt M12 x 90
4 = bolt M12 x 100
5 = bolt M11 x 120
6 = bolt M10 x 50
7 = bolt M10 x 40
8 = bolt M8 x 40
Location of centering sleeves: points A and B
Location of centering sleeves: points A and B
If you need to replace the final drive housing or the tapered roller bearing of the pinion gear or hollow shaft and the deviation r is not indicated on the bevel gear, the installation position of the pinion gear must be determined before removing the gearbox housing (it is necessary to measure the actual deviation).
Before installing the transmission case, check that the guide bushings are installed in the transmission case.
Handle the transmitting device of the speedometer very carefully. Do not drop it, otherwise the speedometer reading may be inaccurate.
Final drive mechanism
The speedometer drive1 can be replaced without removing the gearbox.
Differential 2 can be removed without removing the gearbox housing.
Remove O-ring 3 using VW tool 681.
Seal the final drive cover 4 with AMV 188 200 03.
Always replace circlips 6 and 23.
Install the drive shaft flange using VW tool 295.
The side of the concave washer 10 with a smaller diameter faces the guide sleeve (concave side).
Mark the retaining rings 11, 13 after removal.
Drive shaft flange O-ring - Remove with VW tool 681 and install (5mm below the surface of the final drive housing) with tool VW 195.
Final drive housing 15: Drive shaft flange O-ring - remove with VW tool 681. Install (5 mm below the surface of the final drive housing) with tool VW 195. 3rd / 4th gear shift rod bushing - install with tools VW 295 and VW 295А. Seal with AMV 188 200 03.
Gear lever channel cover 18 - tighten the mounting bolt to 20 N.m.
The lock for 5th gear and reverse gear 22 can be replaced without removing the gearbox. The beveled side of the plastic bushing faces the shift shaft. Tightening torque for the mounting bolts: 10 N.m.
1. Internal shift rod
2. Shift rod of 1st, 2nd, 5th gear and reverse gear with a shift fork
3. Hollow shaft drive gear
4. Transmission housing
5. Socket head bolt - 25 N.m.
6. Socket head bolt for reverse gear axis - 35 N.m.
7. Socket head bolt - 25 N.m.
8. Lock
9. Socket head bolt - 40 N.m.
10. Washer
11. Shifting shaft
Remove the O-ring of the inner shift rod 1 using the VW 681 tool and install it flush with the VW 460/2 tool. On the installed gearbox, carefully remove the O-ring with a screwdriver and install with the VW 423 tool. First, remove the exhaust pipes and the shift rod gear to get free space.
1st, 2nd, 5th and reverse gear shift rod with shift fork 2 - for disassembly / assembly, remove / install spring pins. 1st / 2nd gear shift forks can be replaced individually. Replace the 5th / reverse shift fork only with the shift ring and shift rod.
Socket head bolt for reverse gear axle 6 - 35 N.m. The reverse gear axle does not need to be removed to remove the reverse gear.
Socket head bolt 7-25 N.m. The inside of the head faces the spring / lock safety mechanism.
Install the lock 8 after installing the selector shaft 11 and the inner selector rod.
3rd / 4th gear shift rod and shift fork: The shift rod or shift fork can be individually replaced. Replace the shift rod bearing if worn.
Removing the shift shaft bolts
Let's try to figure out the FS5W71C Nissan Terrano manual transmission with the Z24i engine
I bring to your kind attention the procedure for removing a manual five-speed transmission from a Nissan Terrano with a Z24i engine. In the future, if I have the strength and time, I will tell you how to sort it out.
To remove the checkpoint, you will definitely need a lift or a pit. You just need a jack and two or three strong-build friends at the very moment of taking the checkpoint out of the car.
Now the gearbox with the transfer case hangs on one single beam and on the input shaft.
- We slightly support the transfer case with a jack and unscrew the two nuts securing the gearbox housing to the cross member on the frame.
- Having poured over the WD40, unscrew the four bolts (two on each side) securing the cross member to the frame and remove the cross member.
- We unscrew the two nuts securing the gearbox rubber cushion and remove the cushion.
- The place where the cross member stood is the center of gravity of the gearbox.If it is possible to rest the jack on it, then there should be no further problems.
Now is the time to invite your friends. If you decide to do with human efforts, then now you need to raise the gearbox, remove the jack from under the distributor and gently shake the box, pull it back. The clutch skirt sits on the guides, the input shaft is located in the clutch disc splines. If for some reason the gearbox does not move away from the engine, make sure that you unscrew all the bolts securing the skirt to the engine. When you move the box back, pay attention to the position of the gear shift levers and transfer modes. Please be careful. Your broken heads and crippled bodies will be on my conscience. The transfer case is very heavy.
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Video (click to play). |
The torque converter is an integral part of the automatic transmission, therefore, when repairing the gearbox
its repair is also necessary. In a torque converter, as in an automatic transmission, it can
many breakdowns occur, for example:
If you are interested in selling a used torque converter Nissan Terrano ii (R20) Diesel - do not rush to make a mistake! The automatic transmission fluid coupling BU is a pig in a poke, moreover, at the same price as a quality repair. We recommend that you consider replacing (exchanging) a torque converter with one that has already been restored from our warehouse or a high-quality overhaul in our company.
Installing a diesel torque converter that has not been repaired on a newly repaired automatic transmission Nissan (Nissan) Terrano ii (R20), you risk immediately disabling the gearbox again, because it will get all the dirt and wear products of the torque converter, and in the worst case, metal pieces of bearings or blades.
The cost of repairing a torque converter usually varies from 2,500 (disassembly, flushing and assembly) to 12,000 rubles (in case of severe damage), depending on the complexity of the work, the number and cost of broken parts, which in any case is cheaper than re-repairing a Nissan Terrano automatic transmission ii (R20) Diesel.
The average cost of repairs, together with work and spare parts, is in the region of 4-6 thousand rubles.
We offer a quick repair of your torque converter within 1-2 hours right in front of you. You will be able to see with your own eyes all its breakdowns. At the same time, we do not take any additional money for the urgency.
1) Cutting the torque converter.
You need to carefully cut the weld seam that connects the two halves, trying to leave as much metal as possible. With proper cutting, the torque converter can be easily disassembled and reassembled 2-3 more times if necessary. Unfortunately, many who are engaged in the repair of Nissan Terrano ii (R20) Diesel transformers, approach their work carelessly, cutting off all the metal from the body at the very first cut.
2) After washing all parts from oil and wear products, the repair itself begins.
If necessary, sticker of a new clutch for blocking the hydraulic clutch of automatic transmission Nissan (Nissan) Terrano ii (R20) Diesel, leveling the surface of the body under the new clutch. At this stage, unscrupulous craftsmen again have difficulties out of the blue. They grind the case for a new friction clutch so that they remove almost all the metal through and through, which leads to further through cracks. A normal craftsman does this carefully, without removing excess metal. Further, all other necessary parts are changed - bearings, O-rings, oil seal, etc.
If necessary, a new neck is welded into the bagel cover of the automatic transmission Nissan (Nissan) Terrano ii (R20) Diesel. This requires accuracy and precision, since usually, unskilled workers cannot even cut a hole in the lid to fit the new neck, but make it half a millimeter larger, which then leads to runout and imbalance.
2) Assembly.
It is necessary to weld the two halves of the torque converter back as in the factory, while it is very important to achieve a minimum axial runout between the two halves (balancing), tightness of the seam. For a good craftsman, even the aesthetic component is important, which is why, after repair in GIDROTOR, the torque converter looks the same as a new one made at the factory.
In the video, the usual average result of our repair is a runout of 6 hundredths of a millimeter with an allowable runout of 3 tenths.
Nissan (Nissan) Terrano ii (R20) Diesel 2700 TDI 99hp, 125hp BOSCH EDC15C2
Nissan Terrano II / Nissan Mistral with petrol engines: KA24E 2.4 l (2389 cc) 143 hp / 105 kW and diesel TD27T 2.7 l (2664 cc) 100 hp / 74 kW; Operation manual, device, maintenance, repair, wiring diagrams, diagnostics, design features. Illustrated practical guide car Nissan Terrano and Nissan Mistral SUV with bodies five-door station wagon of increased capacity all-wheel drive R20 models of the second generation from 1993 to 1998
Nissan Terrano II model LR50 Operation manual, maintenance, device, repair, wiring diagrams here
Nissan Terrano II / Mistral video replacement suspension repair and how to eliminate front bearing play (Nissan Terrano and Mistral 93-98)
