DIY gearbox repair

We remove the gearbox from the car (see "Removing and installing the gearbox on a car with the UMPO-331 engine"). If the gearbox is removed from the car together with the clutch housing, we disconnect them (see "Removing and installing the gearbox on a car with the UMPO-331 engine") or disconnect the spacer from the gearbox housing (see. "Replacing the gearbox input shaft oil seal on a car with the VAZ-2106 engine "). We clean the gearbox from oil and dirt and set it on a workbench.

Remove the reversing light switch (see "Replacing the reversing light switch").

Using the "12" head, unscrew the two bolts securing the rear support of the power unit to the gearbox bracket.

Remove the cross member assembly with the rear support of the power unit.

Using the "14" head, unscrew the two bolts securing the bracket to the rear cover of the gearbox.

Using a 12 spanner spanner, unscrew the six M8 bolts securing the top cover to the gearbox housing.

The rear left bolt is shorter than the others.

Using a 13 spanner spanner, unscrew two more M10 bolts centering the top cover relative to the gearbox housing.

Remove the top cover together with the gearshift mechanism.

For removing the rear transmission cover.

... with a spanner wrench "17", unscrew the four nuts securing the cover to the gearbox housing.

We remove the drive gear of the speedometer drive from the splines of the secondary shaft.

... and a tapered spacer sleeve.

So that the output and intermediate shafts do not rotate relative to each other.

... by moving the clutches, turn on two gears (the photo shows the inclusion of the 1st and 4th gears).

On a car with a VAZ 2106 engine, the thrust rings of the rear bearing of the input shaft and the front bearing of the intermediate shaft are fixed with a special bolt and washer (this bolt is not installed in the gearbox of a car with a UMPO-331 engine).

We unscrew this bolt with a “12” head with an outer diameter of not more than 17 mm.

... and take out the bolt together with the washer.

Using the "22" head, unscrew the bolt of the front roller bearing of the intermediate shaft of the gearbox.

The gearbox countershaft rear bearing bolt has a left-hand thread.

... therefore, use the "22" head to turn it clockwise.

Disengage gears by moving the clutches.

Remove the front thrust washer of the front intermediate shaft bearing.

Prying the front bearing of the intermediate shaft with two screwdrivers on the thrust ring.

... take out the outer bearing ring.

We take out the separator with rollers.

Prying off with a screwdriver, we move the inner ring of the bearing along the shaft.

Using tweezers, remove the rear thrust washer of the bearing from the shaft.

Prying the rear double-row ball bearing of the intermediate shaft with two screwdrivers on the thrust ring.

... remove the bearing from the gearbox housing without its inner front ring.

Prying off with a screwdriver, we move the inner ring of the bearing along the shaft.

For the removed thrust washer of the bearing.

... unclench the thrust ring with pliers.

We pry the rear bearing of the input shaft with two screwdrivers on the thrust ring.

... and, holding the intermediate shaft, remove the input shaft together with the bearing from the gearbox housing.

To replace the rear bearing of the input shaft, we clamp the shaft shank in a vice with soft metal jaw pads.

Use two screwdrivers to open the retaining ring.

... and take it out of the shaft groove.

Using a puller, we press the bearing off the input shaft.

Use round nose pliers to open the bearing thrust ring.

Using two mounting blades, we pry the rear bearing of the output shaft by the thrust ring.

Insert the puller paws into the gap formed between the end of the thrust ring and the plane of the gearbox housing.

... and press the bearing from the secondary shaft with a puller.

By sliding the output shaft back.

... we remove the front end of the shaft from the gearbox housing.

By sliding the intermediate shaft back.

... we take it out of the gearbox housing.

For pressing out the idler reverse gear axle.

... we unscrew the stud securing the rear cover of the gearbox, located next to the axle.

We screw an M10 bolt into the threaded hole of the axle (you can use the bolt securing the upper gearbox cover) threaded into the hole of the cup puller.

Turning the bolt, we partially press out the axis of the intermediate gear.

... and remove the retainer from the side hole of the axle (the cup remover has been removed for clarity).

Finally, we press out the intermediate gear axle, hitting the bolt head with a puller cup (while holding the reverse intermediate gear).

Remove the reverse gear lever from the axle.

To replace the needle bearing of the intermediate gear, lightly clamp the gear in a vice with soft metal jaw pads.

Prying with a screwdriver, remove the bearing retaining ring from the ring groove of the gear.

When disassembling the secondary shaft, we mark the removed parts with that. so that during subsequent assembly, unrejected parts can be put in place. Remove the output shaft from the front cone.

... front needle bearing.

... and a blocking ring of the IV gear synchronizer.

We remove from the rear end of the secondary shaft.

... driven gear wheel of 1st transfer.

... gear bearing for 1st gear.

... blocking ring of the 1st gear synchronizer.

... reverse gear clutch.

... split spring ring of the 1st gear synchronizer.

Unclenching with two screwdrivers, remove from the shaft groove and remove the rear retaining ring of the synchronizer hub for I-II gears.

Remove the synchronizer hub for 1st - 2nd gears.

... a snap ring of the 2nd gear synchronizer.

... blocking ring of the 2nd gear synchronizer.

... and a driven gear wheel of II transfer.

From the keyway of the shaft, take out the segmented key of the synchronizer hub for I-II gears.

Unclenching the front retaining ring of the synchronizer hub for I-II gears with two screwdrivers, we remove the ring from the shaft groove.

Remove the bearing of the 2nd gear gear.

We remove from the front end of the secondary shaft.

... a snap ring of the 4th gear synchronizer.

... and a synchronizer clutch for III - IV gears.

Use two screwdrivers to open the front retaining ring of the III-IV gear synchronizer hub.

Remove the III-IV gear synchronizer hub together with the III gear synchronizer spring ring.

We take out the snap ring from the hub.

Remove the 3rd gear synchronizer blocking ring.

Use two screwdrivers to open the rear locking ring of the III-IV gear synchronizer hub.

... and a driven gear wheel of III transfer.

Remove the V gear synchronizer sleeve.

Use two screwdrivers to open the front locking ring of the V-gear synchronizer hub.

... and a V-gear synchronizer hub with a snap ring.

We take out the spring ring from the hub.

Remove the V gear synchronizer blocking ring.

Use two screwdrivers to open the rear locking ring of the V-gear synchronizer hub.

... and the driven gear of the V transfer.

For disassembling the mechanism and the gear shift drive.

... Using a slotted screwdriver, unscrew the four screws securing the protective cover to the upper cover of the gearbox.

Set the rods to the neutral position with the gear shift lever.

We remove the bracket for the gear lever retractor spring from the hole in the top cover (on the right side) and disconnect the spring from the bracket.

Using the "10" wrench, unscrew the three nuts of the studs securing the ball joint of the gear lever.

... and take out the lever assembly with a cover, a flange, a ball joint and a retractor spring from the upper cover of the gearbox.

Remove the flange gaskets and supports.

Pressing on the support washer, squeeze the spring of the lever and unclench the retaining ring with pliers.

Remove the retaining ring from the lever.

Remove the guide cup.

Using a slotted screwdriver, unscrew the four plugs of the gear shift rods on the rear wall of the top cover.

Using a spanner wrench "10", unscrew the four locking bolts of the heads of the gear selection rods.

The bolts are secured with spring washers.

Using a 10 spanner spanner, unscrew the four locking bolts of the gear shift forks (these bolts do not differ from the locking bolts of the heads).

Remove the plug for engaging III-IV gears from the rod.

Use a slotted screwdriver to unscrew the stopper of the III-IV gear selector rod.

... and remove the spring and the ball from the cover channel.

Likewise, we unscrew the plugs and take out the clamps of the engagement rods for I - II, V gears and reverse.

Moving forward the engagement rod of III-IV gears, remove the rod head.

Through the hole in the rear wall of the cover, we take out the III-IV gearshift rod.

We take out the pusher of the locking device from the hole in the rod.

By moving the engagement rods of I-II and V gears.

... from the socket of the rod of inclusion of III-IV gears we remove two balls of the locking device.

We remove the head of the inclusion rod of the 1st - 2nd gears.

We take out the rod of inclusion of the I-II gears.

Remove the head of the V gear engaging rod.

We take out the V gear inclusion rod and remove the plug.

By moving the reverse gear engagement rod.

... remove the third ball of the locking device from the socket of the V gear shift rod.

We take out the second pusher of the locking device from the hole in the V gear shift rod.

Remove the stem head from the reverse gear engaging rod.

We take out the rod for engaging the reverse gear and remove the plug.

Before inspecting the parts of the box, we thoroughly rinse with gasoline or kerosene.

There should be no cracks on the crankcase and gearbox covers, and there should be no damage or signs of wear in the bearing seats and rods. On the working surfaces of the output shaft, the axis of the intermediate reverse gear, in the groove of the input shaft for the needle bearing, there should be no damage, roughness, scoring or wear marks.

The intermediate shaft is not allowed to damage and excessive wear of the teeth and bearing surfaces.

We remove minor damage with a fine emery cloth or a velvet file.

The gears and rims of the synchronizers must be free of damage or excessive tooth wear.

Particular attention should be paid to the condition of the ends of the teeth of the synchromesh rims. The contact patch in the meshing of the gear teeth should be located over the entire surface of the teeth. The mounting axial clearance between the collar of the output shaft and the ends of the gears of the III and V gears must be within 0.05-0.10 mm (the maximum allowable is 0.15 mm).

Shaft ball, roller and needle bearings must be free of scuff marks and wear.

The shift rods should slide freely in the seats on the top cover. Deformation of the gear shift forks is not allowed. Pushers and balls of the locking device must not jam in the channels of the top cover. In case of loss of elasticity, replace the springs of the clips with new ones.

There should be no scoring on the sliding surfaces of the hubs and clutches of the gear shifting synchronizers. The ends of the teeth of couplings and locking rings, as well as the working tapered surfaces of the locking rings, must not be damaged or excessively worn.

We assemble the gearbox in reverse order. When assembling, we lubricate the parts of the box with gear oil.

When assembling the gearshift mechanism, it is necessary to ensure that when installing the engaging rods, the pushers of the locking device do not fall out of the rods, and the balls do not fall out of the cover channels. Forks of inclusion of I - II, III - IV and V gears are interchangeable. But when assembling, we install them in their places.We wrap the four plugs of the gear shift rods on the rear wall of the upper cover, having previously lubricated their threaded part with a sealant. Lubricate the ball joint of the gear lever and the grooves of the rod heads with Litol-24 grease.

When assembling the secondary shaft, we install the hub assembly with split spring rings. The three bent lugs of each ring should point towards the driven gear of the respective gear and pass through the grooves in the hub. When installing the synchronizer couplings on the hubs, the projections of the spring rings must match the sheared teeth of the couplings. We replace the deformed retaining rings of the hubs with new ones.

Press on the rear bearing of the input shaft with a suitable piece of pipe.

In the same way, after installing the intermediate and secondary shafts in the gearbox housing, press the front and rear bearings of the intermediate shaft, the rear bearing of the secondary shaft onto the shafts.

Tighten the bolts of the intermediate shaft bearings to the prescribed torque (see "Appendices").

When installing the input shaft assembly with the bearing in the gearbox housing, care must be taken.

... so that the thrust ring of the input shaft bearing does not overlap on the thrust ring of the front bearing of the intermediate shaft, but enters the slot in the ring.

On a car with a VAZ-2106 engine, the thrust rings of the bearings are additionally fixed with the bolt shown in photos 16 and 17.

It is advisable to apply a thin layer of silicone sealant to all gaskets.

When installing the top cover assembly with the gearshift mechanism, all the forks for engaging the forward gears must go into the grooves of the synchronizer couplings, and the slot of the reverse gear fork must go into the finger of the reverse gear lever.

After assembly, we check the ease of rotation of the shafts and the clarity of the gears.

We remove the gearbox from the car (see. "Removing the transmission", and drain the oil from it (see. "Change of oil"). Remove the fork and clutch release bearing (see. "Removing the clutch release drive mechanism on a car with a VAZ-2106 engine" ).

Remove the flange of the elastic coupling from the toe of the output shaft (see. "Replacing the secondary shaft oil seal" ).

... and reversing light switch (see. "Replacing the reversing light switch" ).

Remove the speedometer drive reducer (see. "Removing the speedometer drive" ).

Set the gear lever to neutral.

Using the "10" head, unscrew the three nuts securing the gear lever housing.

... and take out the gear selection mechanism.

The connection is sealed with a gasket.

With a marker, we mark the relative position of the washers and the guide plate of the mechanism.

Using the "10" head, unscrew the two nuts securing the reverse locking plate, holding the bolts with a wrench of the same dimension.

... and remove the blocking plate.

... remove the bottom washer of the guide plate.

Taking out one guide bar with two springs.

... remove the guide plate from the lower end of the arm.

Remove the top washer of the guide plate.

Remove the gear lever housing.

We take out the rubber sealing rings of the bolts from the grooves of the body.

Remove the bottom gasket of the ball joint housing.

Remove the flange with a protective cover.

... and the upper body gasket.

Remove the retaining ring with pliers.

Remove the spherical washer.

... and disconnect the lever and the ball joint housing.

We install the gearbox with the clutch housing on the workbench.

Using the "10" head, unscrew ten nuts securing the lower gearbox cover.

... and its gasket.

Using a screwdriver, through the hole of the gear selection mechanism, move down the plug of the I-II gear engagement fork (in this case, the II gear is engaged).

Using the "13" key, unscrew the rear cover fastening nut located inside the box body.

Using the "13" wrench, unscrew the five nuts securing the back cover located outside the case.

To remove the lid, tap with a hammer with a plastic striker on its tides.In this case, the rear bearing of the output shaft must remain in place, for which we hold it with a screwdriver (or a suitable piece of pipe with the oil seal removed) on the shaft through the hole in the cover.

Remove the cover from the studs and turn it clockwise (looking from the side of the secondary shaft shank) so as not to touch the rods and the gear block of the V gear and reverse. The connection is sealed with a gasket.

For replacing the bearing of the V and reverse gear block.

... pry on the bearing rollers with a screwdriver and take them out of the cage.

Hook up the outer ring of the bearing.

... take it out of the back cover slot.

Remove the outer ring of the secondary shaft rear bearing with a cage, rollers and a thrust washer.

Remove the inner bearing ring.

We remove the drive gear of the speedometer drive (do not lose its retainer - a metal ball installed in the socket of the secondary shaft).

Remove the slinger washer.

To lock the shafts from turning, it is necessary to engage two gears. 2nd gear was engaged when the rear cover was removed (see photo 24). Before engaging reverse or V gear, release the fork for engaging these gears. For this.

... with a key "10" unscrew the bolt fastening the plug to the rod.

By moving the plug down with a screwdriver, turn on the reverse gear.

Using a spanner wrench or a "17" head, unscrew the bolt securing the gear block for the V gear and reverse gear.

... and remove the gear block from the intermediate shaft splines.

Clamp the V gear and reverse gear block in a vice with soft metal jaw pads.

Using two screwdrivers, press the inner ring of the bearing of the gear block of the V gear and reverse.

... and remove the inner ring.

Remove the 5th gear bushing.

... the gear itself with a synchronizer blocking ring.

Turning the V gear and reverse gear fork on the rod to the output shaft.

... remove the reverse gear.

Using a spanner wrench "13", unscrew the two bolts securing the retainer cover.

Remove the cover and gasket.

We take out the springs of the retainers (the spring of the retainer of the V gear and reverse gear is longer than the other two and has a dark coating color).

With a magnetized screwdriver, remove all three clips.

We take out the V gear and reverse gear with a fork.

With a magnetized screwdriver, remove the blocking cracker from the hole in the gearbox housing, which is located between the sockets of the crankcase for the rods of the 5th gear and reverse gears and III-IV gears.

We remove the driven gear wheel of the reverse gear from the secondary shaft.

We take out the key from the shaft hole.

Using the "10" head, unscrew the bolt fastening to the rod of the 3rd-4th gear shift fork.

A blocking cracker is inserted into the stem hole.

With a magnetized screwdriver, we extract the blocking cracker from the hole in the gearbox housing, which is located between the crankcase sockets for the rods of I - II and III and IV gears (this cracker is noticeably longer than the cracker located between the rods of the V gear - reverse gear and III-IV gears).

Using the "10" head, we unscrew the bolt fastening to the rod of the forks for engaging 1st-2nd gears.

Using an impact screwdriver with a Phillips tip, unscrew the three screws securing the locking plate of the intermediate bearing of the secondary shaft.

The screws are locked with special washers.

Remove the locking plate.

Using a 19 spanner wrench, unscrew the nut securing the axle of the intermediate reverse gear, keeping the axle from turning with the “24” wrench.

We take out the axis of the intermediate reverse gear.

Unscrewing the clutch housing speckled nuts (see. "Replacing the oil seal of the input shaft of the gearbox" ).

... we separate the clutch housing and gearbox.

We remove the spring washer with a tapered surface from the input shaft (with the convex side facing the bearing).

We clamp the spline part of the input shaft in a vice with soft metal jaws.

With the key "19", unscrew the bolt of the clamping washer of the front bearing of the intermediate shaft.

We take out the bolt and remove the bearing clamp washer.

Using two screwdrivers, we pry the front double-row bearing of the intermediate shaft by the locating ring.

When the bearing is removed, its rear inner ring may remain on the shaft.

Using two screwdrivers, press the rear inner ring of the bearing from the toe of the shaft.

We remove the thrust ring of the rear bearing of the intermediate shaft.

By inserting a screwdriver between the ends of the bearing and the gears of the 1st gear of the intermediate shaft, we shift the rear bearing.

We take out the outer bearing ring with a cage and rollers.

Remove the inner bearing ring from the toe of the shaft.

By sliding the intermediate shaft back.

... we take it out of the gearbox housing.

Prying the bearing by the locating ring with two screwdrivers.

... we take out the input shaft assembly with the bearing and the synchronizer blocking ring.

Use pliers to open the retaining ring.

We support the end of the outer ring of the bearing on the vise jaws.

With a hammer with a plastic striker, we strike at the end of the input shaft.

... and press the bearing.

Use pliers to open the adjusting ring.

Slide the locking ring of the synchronizer and use the pliers to open the locking ring.

Remove the locking ring.

Locking rings of synchronizers of other gears are removed in the same way.

Remove the needle bearing from the toe of the output shaft.

We remove the forks of inclusion of I and II, III and IV gears.

Using two screwdrivers, we pry the intermediate bearing of the secondary shaft by the locating ring.

Having tilted, we remove from the gearbox housing the secondary shaft complete with gears, couplings, hubs and synchronizer blocking rings.

Remove the bushing and the 1st gear gear assembly with the locking ring from the rear of the shaft.

We take out the bushing from the gear.

Remove the synchronizer sleeve for engaging 1st and 2nd gears.

Remove the synchronizer hub.

Remove the 2nd gear gear assembly with a locking ring.

From the front end of the secondary shaft, remove the synchronizer sleeve for III and IV gears.

Clamping the output shaft in a vice with soft metal jaw pads.

... remove the retaining ring with pliers.

Remove the spring washer (it is installed with the convex side to the front toe of the shaft).

Remove the synchronizer hub for III and IV gears.

... and a gear wheel of the III transfer assembly with a blocking ring of the synchronizer.

We carry out the assembly of the gearbox in the reverse order.

If, when removing the front double-row bearing of the intermediate shaft, its rear inner ring remains on the shaft (see photo 74-77), then the bearing must be assembled before installation. For this.

... carefully remove the separator with balls with a screwdriver.

... and put it on the inner ring (removed from the shaft).

Insert the cage with balls and an inner ring into the outer ring of the bearing.

When assembling the input shaft.

... press on the bearing with a suitable piece of pipe (leaning on its inner ring).

In the same way, after installing the secondary and intermediate shafts into the gearbox housing, we press in the front and rear bearings of the intermediate shaft, the intermediate bearing of the secondary shaft and the inner bearing ring of the gear block.

Outer ring of the bearing of the block of gears of the V and reverse gear.

... press it with a suitable piece of pipe into the socket of the back cover.

We insert a separator and rollers into the outer ring of the bearing. To prevent the bolt of fastening the gear block of the 5th gear and reverse gear from loosening, apply a thread sealant to the thread of the bolt.

For the convenience of installing the rear cover, we install the rear bearing assembly on the output shaft.

It is advisable to lubricate all gaskets of the gearbox with a thin layer of silicone sealant.

When assembling the gear selection mechanism, we apply Litol-24 grease to the ball joint.

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On cars Izh 2126 ode and modifications were installed 2 different engines "UZAM" and "VAZ", respectively, two different five-speed gearboxes are installed: IZH126-1700010-80 and VAZ-21074-1700010.

Synchronizers for gears are installed in the design of all gearboxes. the synchronizer device usually includes spring-loaded couplings located in two spline hubs. When the gear is engaged, the cones brake the gears until they fully engage, as a result of which the gear is smoothly engaged. Gearbox parts have a long service life, but when they wear out, gear shifting is difficult and is accompanied by noise during the operation of the gearbox.

Repair of the gearbox is necessary when an increased effort appears when shifting gears, noise during the operation of the gearbox, arbitrary knocking out of the gear.

Knocks when shifting gears occur when the locking rings are worn, when, even when installing a new synchronizer ring, the gap between the ends of this ring and the gear rim of the gear is less than 0.5 mm. In the gearbox, when individual parts are broken, characteristic knocks appear. Metal particles in the drained oil indicate breakage of parts in the absence of knocking.

Gearbox noise is more likely to occur due to worn shaft bearings or lack of oil. A grinding noise when a gear is engaged is a sign of heavy wear of the corresponding gear or its breakage.

Arbitrary disengagement of gears on the move often occurs due to wear of the spring retainers and their seats, wear or breakage of gear teeth, wear of bearings, misalignment of the gearbox housing, clutch housing and crankshaft.

The installation of the box is carried out in the reverse order.

Due to the fact that the gearbox is a complex element in the design of the car, it is recommended to repair it in a specialized service center.

At our auto dismantling site, you can buy a used gearbox or spare parts for it. All products sold are guaranteed. A sales receipt is issued. Delivery is possible.

You can clarify the availability of goods by calling 8-905-211-64-23

The gearbox from a car equipped with a UMPO-331 engine can be removed in two ways: with a clutch housing and without a crankcase. (For removal of the gearbox assembly with the clutch housing, see subsection "Replacing the casing and the clutch disc on a car with an UMPO-331 engine" ).

We remove the gearbox without the clutch housing - this does not require dismantling the starter, the clutch slave cylinder, the clutch housing cover, the intake pipe. Remove the floor cover (see. "Removing the floor cover") and the air supply duct to the rear of the passenger compartment (see. "Removing the air supply duct to the rear of the passenger compartment" ).

In the passenger compartment, pushing the shift lever rod downward.

... use a screwdriver to pry on the petals of the locking sleeve.

... and remove them from the annular groove of the rod.

Remove the gear lever rod.

Use a screwdriver to open the petals of the spacer sleeve.

Remove the rubber elastic from the lever.

Levers are located in the hole in the rod.

The operations shown in photo 1-9 were carried out on the removed gearbox for clarity.

Using the "8" key, unscrew the five self-tapping screws for securing the protective cover of the gearshift drive to the floor.

Further operations are performed under the car.

We drain the oil from the gearbox (see. "Change of oil"). Disconnect the wires from the reversing light switch (see. "Replacing the reversing light switch" ).

We remove the cardan transmission (see. "Removing the cardan transmission" ).

Disconnect the flexible shaft from the speedometer drive (see. "Removing the flexible shaft of the speedometer drive" ).

Remove the intake pipe bracket (see. "Removing the intake pipe on a car with an UMPO-331 engine" )

With the head "17" (with a cardan joint), we unscrew the six bolts securing the gearbox to the clutch housing.

... and three on the right (two of them attach the bracket to which the bracket for the intake pipe is attached).

We substitute an adjustable stop (or jack) under the gearbox housing.

Using the "14" head, unscrew the two bolts securing the cross member to the floor brackets.

Gently slide the gearbox back, removing its input shaft from the clutch housing.

... and remove the gearbox.

A spring ring is installed in the groove of the clutch housing (with the convex side towards the bearing).

Remove the gasket.

When removing or installing the gearbox, do not support the input shaft of the gearbox on the oil seal installed in the clutch housing and on the clutch pressure plate petals, so as not to damage them.

Before installing the gearbox, we apply a thin layer of SHRUS-4 grease to the spline end of the input shaft.

We include the IV transfer. For the convenience of mounting the box.

... screw two M12 studs 130-140 mm long into the lower threaded holes of the clutch housing.

Using the studs as guides, we install the gearbox. Turning the shafts of the box by the flange of the elastic coupling, we insert the input shaft into the splines of the hub of the driven clutch disc and into the bearing of the crankshaft flange.

We fasten the box, which is transferred to the clutch housing with two bolts.

After unscrewing the mounting pins, the further installation of the box is transferred in the reverse order.

Inside, before installing the rod on the gear lever.

... insert the pillow and bushings into the hole of the rod (upper elastic, distance, lower elastic and locking).

Having installed the rod on the lever, we press on the rod until the petals of the spacer sleeve enter the annular groove of the lever.

A distinctive feature of Izh ODA is that you buy a car for a low price, and you get high quality for it. I would like to pay special attention to the gearbox. Izh ODA box can be of two options:

- Izh-2126 - can be installed with two types of engines (UMPO-331 and VAZ-2106);

- VAZ-21074 - installed mainly on VAZ-2106 engines.

Both transmission options have five gears, each equipped with a synchronizer. In general, the characteristics of both boxes are identical, the only difference is in the design.

Gearbox Izh-2126 and VAZ-21074

The gearshift mechanism is installed on the top cover. The body parts are made of aluminum alloy. Made by casting. The surface of the crankcase is ribbed. This design assumes improved heat dissipation. The filler hole is on the left side of the crankcase. It is recommended to use a gear oil that has a viscosity between 75W80 and 85W90.

Description of the structure

The Izh-2126 gearbox can be aggregated both with the UMPO-331 engine, and I with the VAZ-2106 engine. The gearbox, designed for installation complete with the UMPO-331 engine, in comparison with the gearbox installed with the VAZ-2106 engine, has a shorter input shaft and large splines under the stupa of the driven clutch face.

The gearbox is attached directly to the clutch housing of the UMPO-331 engine, and to the clutch housing of the VAZ-2106 engine through a spacer (the assembly of the unit is shown in the subsection "Replacing the input shaft oil seal"). The joint between the spacer and the gearbox housing is sealed with a gasket, and the joint between the spacer and the clutch housing has no gasket. An oil seal and a snap ring are installed in the hole of the spacer for the input shaft of the gearbox. The thrust rings of the front bearing of the intermediate and rear bearing of the input shafts of the gearbox, aggregated with the VAZ engine, are additionally fixed with a bolt and washer. In this regard, gearboxes for different modifications of the Izh-2126 car are not interchangeable. If it is necessary to install one box instead of another, you will have to completely disassemble it to replace the input shaft. The rest of the gearbox designs are similar.

Gear shift mechanism and drive:

1 - retainer plug; 2 - spring; 3 - the top cover of the gearbox; 4 - ball; 5 - ball bearing; 6 - spherical washer; 7 - lever spring; 8 - support washer; 9 - retaining ring; 10 - cover mounting flange; 11 - washer; 12 - nut; 13 - lever cover; 14 - pull-back spring bracket; 15 - pull-back spring; 16.18 - ball joint gaskets; 17 - guide cup; 19 - gear shift lever; 20 - locking sleeve; 21, 23 - damping bushings; 22 - distance sleeve; 24 - persistent pillow; 25 - lever handle; 26 - lever rod; 27 - insulating cover; 28 - protective cover; 29 - gasket for the protective cover; 30 - ball; 31 - pusher; 32 - stem plug; 33 - stem head III-IV transferred; 34, 37 - stocks; 35 - head of the backing rod; 36 - locking bolt; 3B - reverse gear plug; 39 - gear shift fork; 40 - bottom cover; 41 - bottom cover gasket; 42 - reverse light switch.

The gearbox is mechanical, three-shaft, five-speed (has five forward gears and one reverse). All forward gears are synchronized. The gearshift mechanism is mounted in the upper gearbox cover. The body parts of the box - the crankcase, the rear and top covers - are cast from an aluminum alloy and tightened together by bolts and studs with nuts. The connections are sealed with gaskets (sealant can be used for repairs). To improve heat dissipation, the surface of the gearbox housing is ribbed.

To ensure the alignment of the engine crankshaft and the gearbox input shaft, the clutch housings of the UMPO-331 and VAZ-2106 engines are centered relative to the cylinder block with two bushings (grooves are made for them in the two lower mounting holes of the cylinder block and the clutch housing).

The clutch housing of the VAZ-2106 engine is also centered with the gearbox through a cylindrical protrusion of the spacer, coaxial with the input shaft and entering the groove of the clutch housing

The rear support of the power unit is installed on the rear cover of the transmission. It is attached to the cross member and the cross member to the body floor brackets.

There is a filler (inspection) hole in the gearbox housing on the left side, and a drain hole at the bottom. The holes are sealed with tapered plugs. Transmission oil with a viscosity of 75W80 to 85W90 and a quality class of at least GL-4 is poured into the gearbox. Its level should be at the lower edge of the filler hole (first make sure that the car is horizontal).

Gearbox parts are splash lubricated. The outputs of the input and output shafts are sealed with oil seals. The primary shaft oil seal is installed in the clutch housing (box with the UZAM-331 engine) or in the affixed (box with the VAZ-2106 engine), and the secondary shaft is in the rear cover of the gearbox.

Read about the assembly of the Izh ode 2126 gearbox - come in. Techniques and techniques for car repair in garage conditions.

How to repair a car with your own hands at home. We will help ourselves to repair and repair the car ourselves. We know how to restore a car with minimal investment. I attach a video instruction.

Category: DIY repair

Laughter in the subject: If you come across an ad like: “Buy a car now. Benefit 100 thousand rubles. " Remember, this is not about your benefit.

Posted by Admin: at Farid's request

The car owner's reasoning: Separately adjustable seats for six people are a song. (The seventh also fits, but then the back is cramped.) The table between the front seats is a nice addition. The second doors sliding back are very convenient in tight parking lots, it happens that the whole family goes out through the right second door. This compensates for the only inconvenience of its width, which has already ceased to be noticed. A sufficiently high ground clearance makes it possible to slide down onto the grass for a picnic. Glove compartments and cells are just a sea, cup holders are everywhere. With the removal of two rows of seats, it turns into a truck.Lengths up to 2.1 m in this case easily fall on the floor. The seats can be removed and installed very easily, but they are heavy on their own. There are only four pots of 2.9 liters of the engine, which means - if the injectors die - change only four (in the new - already six)! Noise is acceptable inside, slightly noisy at idle outside. Oil does not eat at all, despite the turbine. Thank God, there is no particulate filter (expensive pribluda). Spare parts are inexpensive. Ha route goes up to 178 by satellite navigation. There is simply nowhere to overclock faster, and gibbons do not sleep. It creates the impression of a general problemlessness, you generally cease to feel it as a mechanism. Unobtrusive, patient and helpful.

The IZH-2126 gearbox can be aggregated with both the UMPO-3Z1 engine and the VAZ-2106 engine. The gearbox, designed for installation complete with the UMPO-3Z1 engine, in comparison with the gearbox installed with the VAZ-2106 engine, has a shorter input shaft and large splines for the hub of the clutch disc.

Rice. ___. Izh-2126 gearbox: 1 - input shaft; 2 - clutch housing; 3 - rear bearing of the input shaft; 4 - bolt of fastening of the top cover; 5 - top cover; 6 - front bearing of the secondary shaft; 7 - blocking ring of the gear engagement synchronizer; 8 - hub of III -I V gears; 9 - clutch of III-I V gears; 10 - gear wheel; 11 - retaining ring; 12 - hub of the V transfer;

13 - V gear clutch; 14 - gear wheel of V transfer; 15 - gear wheel of II transfer;

16 - roller bearing; 17 - key; 18 - reverse gear clutch; 19 - blocking ring of the synchronizer for switching on the 1st gear; 20 - hub of I - II gears; 21 - gear wheel of 1st transfer; 22 - rod of the gear shift lever; 23 - lever cover; 24 - gear shift lever; 25 - rear bearing of the secondary shaft;

26 - flange of the flexible coupling of the cardan transmission; 27 - the leading gear wheel of the speedometer drive; 28 - secondary shaft oil seal; 29 - elastic coupling flange nut; 30 - centering ring; 31 - secondary shaft; 32 — sealant; 33 - dirt reflector; 34 - washer; 35 - rear bolt of the intermediate shaft; 36 - bolt of fastening of the bracket of the rear support of the power unit; 37 - nut of the rear cover fastening stud; 38 - rear bearing of the intermediate shaft; 39 - rear cover of the transmission; 40 - rear cover gasket; 41 - needle bearing; 42 - intermediate reverse gear; 43 - the axis of the intermediate gear; 44 - intermediate shaft; 45 - gearbox housing; 46 - front bearing of the intermediate shaft; 47 - front bolt

intermediate shaft bearing.

Rice. ___. Gear shift mechanism and drive: 1 - retainer plug; 2 — spring; 3 - the upper cover of the gearbox; 4 - ball; 5 - ball bearing; 6 - spherical washer; 7 - lever spring; 8 - support washer; 9 - retaining ring; 10 - cover mounting flange; 11 - washer; 12 - nut; 13 - lever cover; 14 - tension spring bracket; 15 — retraction spring; 16, 18 - ball joint gaskets; 17 - guide cup; 19 - gear shift lever; 20 - locking sleeve; 21, 23 - damping bushings; 22 - distance sleeve; 24 - persistent pillow; 25 - lever handle; 26 - lever rod; 27 - insulating cover; 28 - protective cover; 29 - gasket for the protective cover; 30 - ball; 31 - pusher; 32 — stem plug; 33 — head of the rod 1II — P / gear; 34, 37 - stocks; 35 — head of the backing rod; 36 - locking bolt; 38 - reverse gear fork; 39 - gear shift fork; 40 - bottom cover; 41 - bottom cover gasket; 42 - reverse light switch.

The gearbox is attached directly to the clutch housing of the UMGIO-331 engine, and to the clutch housing of the VAZ-2106 engine through a spacer. The joint between the spacer and the gearbox housing is sealed with a gasket, and the joint between the spacer and the clutch housing has no gasket. An oil seal and a snap ring are installed in the hole of the spacer for the input shaft of the gearbox. The thrust rings of the front bearing of the intermediate and rear bearing of the input shafts of the gearbox, aggregated with the VAZ engine, are additionally fixed with a bolt and washer. In this regard, gearboxes for different modifications of the Izh-2126 car are not interchangeable. If it is necessary to install one box instead of another, you will have to completely disassemble it to replace the input shaft. The rest of the gearbox designs are similar.

The gearbox is mechanical, three-shaft, five-speed (has five forward gears and one reverse). All forward gears are synchronized. The gearshift mechanism is mounted in the upper gearbox cover. The body parts of the box - the crankcase, the rear and top covers - are cast from an aluminum alloy and tightened together by bolts and studs with nuts. The connections are sealed with gaskets (sealant can be used for repairs). To improve heat dissipation, the surface of the gearbox housing is ribbed.

To ensure the alignment of the engine crankshaft and the gearbox input shaft, the clutch housings of the UMPO-3Z1 and VAZ-2106 engines are centered relative to the cylinder block with two bushings (grooves are made for them in the two lower mounting holes of the cylinder block and the clutch housing).

The clutch housing of the VAZ - 2106 engine is also centered with the gearbox through a cylindrical protrusion of the spacer, coaxial with the input shaft and entering the groove of the clutch housing.

The rear support of the power unit is installed on the rear cover of the gearbox. It is attached to the cross member and the cross member to the body floor brackets.

There is a filler (inspection) hole in the gearbox housing on the left side, and a drain hole at the bottom. The holes are sealed with tapered plugs. Transmission oil with a viscosity of 75% W 80 to 85 W 90 and a quality class of at least GL -4 is poured into the gearbox. Its level should be at the lower edge of the filler hole (first make sure that the car is horizontal).

Gearbox parts are splash lubricated. The outputs of the input and output shafts are sealed with oil seals. The primary shaft oil seal is installed in the clutch housing (box with the UZAM-33I engine) or in a spacer (box with the VAZ-2 106 engine), and the secondary shaft in the rear cover of the gearbox.

Rice. ___. A hole in the input shaft serves for ventilation of the gearbox.

The gearbox has three shafts: primary, secondary and intermediate.

The input shaft rests on two ball bearings - in the rear end of the crankshaft and in the front wall of the gearbox housing (the latter takes the bulk of the load). A needle bearing is installed in the hole of the rear end of the input shaft, which is the front support of the output shaft and ensures the alignment of the shafts. The resilient end of the output shaft rests on a ball bearing installed in the rear wall of the gearbox housing.

The intermediate shaft rotates in two bearings located in the walls of the gearbox housing: front - roller, rear - double-row ball. The inner rings of the bearings are fixed to the shaft by bolts and washers. The rear bearing bolt has a left-hand thread.

The axle of the reverse idler gear is pressed with the front end in the tide of the lower part of the gearbox housing, with the rear end in the crankcase wall. The idler reverse gear rotates on a two in-line needle bearing.

The input shaft has two toothed rims. The helical ring is in constant mesh with the front pinion of the countershaft (so these shafts always rotate together). The spur of the primary shaft is the crown of the synchronizer of the I V transmission (when it is turned on, the torque is transmitted directly from the primary shaft to the secondary, bypassing the intermediate one, therefore this transmission is often called "direct").

The intermediate shaft is a block of five helical gears and one spur reverse gear. When any forward gear is engaged, except I V, the torque is transmitted to the secondary shaft through the intermediate shaft. To engage the reverse gear, the intermediate gear must be engaged with the reverse gear clutch on the secondary shaft and with the intermediate shaft drive gear.The countershaft gears are located in the following order (from the front side): constant mesh gear with the input shaft, gears III V, I I, reverse and 1 gear.

On the secondary shaft there are driven gears of III, V, II gears, a reverse gear clutch, a driven gear of 1st gear and synchronizers. The driven gears of the forward gears rotate freely on the shaft and are in constant mesh with the corresponding gears of the intermediate shaft. Gears of 1st and 2nd gears rotate on double-row needle bearings, gears of 3rd and 5th gears - on shaft journals. The reverse gear is made integral with the synchronizer clutch for 1st and 1st gears, the hub of which is rigidly fixed to the shaft by a key. For one with the helical gears of the forward gears, the crowns of their synchronizers are made - spur gears of a smaller diameter. They are directed towards the corresponding synchronizer (II, V - forward, II back). At the rear end of the output shaft, the flange of the elastic coupling is fastened with a nut.

The synchronizer consists of a hub rigidly fixed to the output shaft, a sliding sleeve of a split spring ring and a blocking ring. Synchronizer hubs for III - and V gears enter with three internal protrusions in longitudinal vases on the output shaft, and the hub for synchronizers for 1st - II gears is held by a key. On the outer surface of the hubs there are slots along which the sliding couplings move. There are grooves on the couplings, which include the forks of the gear shift rods. The hub has three protrusions that fit into the grooves of the gear rim of the blocking ring. A split spring ring is installed between the locking ring and the synchronizer hub. With its three protrusions passing through the grooves on the hub, the ring interacts with the sliding sleeve.

The transmission control drive consists of a gear lever and a ball joint.

The gearshift mechanism is located in the upper cover of the gearbox and consists of four rods with forks. The forks for engaging the forward gears enter the grooves of the sliding clutches of the synchronizers, and the forks for engaging the reverse gear into the lever finger, which with its cracker enters the groove on the intermediate gear.

In the channels of the upper cover of the gearbox there are retainers consisting of balls and springs. Under the action of the springs, the balls enter the wells of the rods, preventing spontaneous disengagement of the gears. The locking device, which protects the gearbox from simultaneously engaging two gears, consists of two pushers and three balls. The pushers are located in the holes of the engaging rods of III-IV and V gears, and the balls are in the channels of the cover between the sockets for the rods.

In the left rear part of the upper gearbox cover, the reversing light switch is screwed in.