Repair of the transmission (gearbox) Hyundai Santa Fe can be major or partial. Repair of the box (manual transmission) Hyundai Santa Fe should be done only after initial diagnostics in a car service. Very often, a third-party opinion that the box needs to be repaired turns out to be erroneous. It can also be caused by the clutch, flywheel, and gear selector.
It has been almost two years of operation of the Hyundai Santa Fe Classic car, after I wrote my review about it. The mileage during this time was 12,500 km. The only serious breakdown during this time was the replacement of both covers for the outer CV joints of the front axle shafts, which occurred 2600 km after their replacement during the repair of the clutch. As you can see in the photo of the semi-axle, the covers looked very cool, they were made of rubber with a thickness of about 2 mm. Japanparts KB-283, KB-252
Further two years practically did not do anything with the car, only consumables (oil, filters, etc.) were changed.
First impressions, after replacing the discs, the brakes became softer, the effort on the pedals decreased, in order to brake, you just need to put your foot on the brake pedal and the car starts to noticeably slow down. It used to be worse. Taking this opportunity, I adjusted the parking brake, the pads of which are located in the drums of the rear discs and the spread of which is regulated by turning the nut, pushing apart the two rods with left and right threads, screwed into the specified nut. The parking brake during operation is adjusted with a screwdriver through the window of the parking brake drum, closed with a rubber plug. Since the discs were changing, I spread the parking brake pads, controlling the amount of divorce by putting on the disc and turning the wheel hub. One may get the impression that I am confusing something, speaking of the drums of the rear brake discs, no, indeed, the rear brake discs structurally contain a small drum in which the parking brake mechanism is located, on which the service brake disc is "put on".
When replacing the brake discs and pads, I found that the covers of the upper pins of the front stabilizer struts were torn. This malfunction occurred due to the backlash of the front stabilizer link in the worn bushings. The knock of the traction was for a long time, the bushings were bought and had been waiting in the wings for more than two years, one stopped, a pit or a lift was needed to replace it. I have neither one nor the other in my garage. Pits, because the "permafrost" and the garage are on the dumping rock from the quarry, the size of the quarries of which reached one and a half to two meters, in which it is practically impossible to gouge a hole. The lift is installed when using the garage premises for commercial purposes for car repairs, it is expensive to repair one car! Also, during the last toe adjustment, the locksmith performing the work drew my attention to the knock coming when the steering wheel was swinging from the place where the right steering rod was attached to the steering cylinder. That is, it was necessary to change the traction due to wear on the inner hinge. Again I ordered all the necessary parts via the Internet, everything cost me 2,740 rubles, taking into account the fact that the stabilizer bushings had already been purchased earlier and the price includes an oil and cabin filter.
In mid-October 2014, I changed the oil, filled in Shell Helix Ultra 5W40 synthetics, oil, fuel, cabin filters. I change the oil after 10,000 km or once a year.
The mileage of the car in October 2014 exceeded 100,000 km. The cost of spare parts (without oil and fuel) was, for almost two years of operation, 20,969 rubles, why is it so accurate? I order everything via the Internet, the price is from the order history on the store's website. The cost of fuel is about 55,000 rubles a year, with the price of diesel fuel 37-42 rubles per liter, depending on the brand, by the way, I collect receipts from refueling, they have been in the car for the last 4 years, on each I write the odometer readings at the time of refueling. In summer, fuel consumption, in the city, is 10-11 liters per 100 km, in winter, the consumption for the operation of the internal combustion engine at idle speed is added, about 1 hour every day, and the operation of the Webasta heater, about 2 hours on a working day (three times for 40 minutes , in the morning, at lunchtime and in the evening), total consumption in winter is about 15 liters per 100 km. Fuel consumption on the highway is 6 liters per 100 km. This year, every week in the summer I went to Dudinka, this is 100 km along a disgusting road in one direction, so I had the opportunity to measure it more than once.Also, the car stands on the street down to -25 ° C, only after the temperature drops it moves to the garage, it gets a little warmer - again on the street. The garage is located far from the house, 20 minutes by bus.
The cost of operating a 6-year-old Santa Fe Classic car in Norilsk, according to my calculations, is about 80 thousand rubles a year (taking into account the cost of fuel, oils, electricity, garage fees).
Summary: I still like the car, for a calm and unhurried drive, at the same time, you can accelerate if necessary. A lot of things can be taken away in the trunk, if you fold out the rear seats, then the refrigerator will fit. The costs of maintenance and repair are not large, you can still reduce if you restore faulty spare parts or operate them until they are completely out of order. In general, while I drive it, I have no plans to sell it, it suits me. In the future I will try to add information about the Santa Fe Classic car when operating in Norilsk.
The Hyundai Santa Fe car came to the liking of Russian drivers. A fairly simple, unpretentious and at a very reasonable price, an SUV, whose appearance pleases the eye, has won the hearts of our compatriots. Like any other car, it needs proper maintenance and quality repairs.
Only taking into account all the requirements of the manufacturer, the car will last a long time and will never let you down. Replacing the clutch should be carried out after the first hundred thousand kilometers. In fact, this figure can change both up and down.
Drivers in large cities are rather tired of eternal traffic jams, because of which the clutch wears out a lot. Constant acceleration and deceleration leads to the fact that the clutch has to be repaired early enough, after the first hundred kilometers. During normal driving, the service life of the driven disc may be longer.
During operation, it is not required to service the disc, which is based on linings without the slightest asbestos content, since the worn areas are leveled while driving. But there are also Hyundai Santa Fe cars with automatic transmission, which includes a hydraulic multi-plate clutch.
The clutch design can have various configurations. It all depends on both the type of gearbox and the ICE model. Even the year of production plays a significant role: early cars were equipped with single-mass flywheels, later they began to use dual-mass ones.
But in general, even if you compare the Hyundai Santa Fe with the domestic classics or the Hyundai Accent, then there are not so many elements responsible for the correct operation. The main element is the flywheel, which is mounted on the engine's crankshaft.
The advantage of a dual-mass flywheel is immediately apparent, since it is able to damp torsional vibrations almost completely due to its system of dampers and springs. Directly onto the flywheel, the drive disc is screwed, popularly called the basket because of some similarities.
The clutch basket is covered with a special anticorrosive material, and in order to increase its lifetime, it is necessary to process only the surface that is in contact with the driven disc with high quality. Most of the time when driving, the basket firmly presses the driven disc to the flywheel, and when the clutch pedal is pressed, these elements are disconnected and the gearbox with the internal combustion engine operate separately from each other.
It helps to do this with a simple release bearing, which, like the driven disc, is located on the input shaft of the box. When you press the pedal, the clutch on the Hyundai Santa Fe starts working. The force from the pedal is transmitted to the clutch master cylinder.
The piston of this cylinder creates pressure in the tube, driving the piston in the slave cylinder, which pushes the rod, which acts on the clutch fork. But this fork moves the release bearing along the axis of the input shaft, pressing on the petals of the pressure plate.The principle of operation of the clutch on Hyundai is in many ways similar to a similar process on domestic classic cars.
The adjustment is not very difficult, but some nuances must be taken into account. Your goal is to remove all air from the Hyundai clutch system (slave and master cylinders with a connecting pipe). This is the only way to achieve efficient hydraulic drive operation.
During pumping, make sure that drops of liquid do not fall on the paint. If this happens, then immediately rinse the area with water. Be extremely careful with yourself, because exposure to the liquid on the skin is undesirable, and if it gets into your eyes, it is better to consult a doctor, after rinsing them with water.
If you purchased a car, be it a Hyundai Accent or Santa Fe, then be sure to ask the seller what fluids were filled in the systems. It is not recommended to mix fluids from different manufacturers, as they may contain additives that, when interacting with each other, can change the viscosity in either direction.
And this will affect the operation of the mechanism as a whole. It is forbidden to use liquid that was previously drained from the system, because small debris can get into it. The result is coking of the tube or even rapid wear of the cylinders. If liquids from different manufacturers accidentally enter the tank, you will need:
drain all liquid from the system;
flush with a clean fluid recommended by the car manufacturer;
disassemble the cylinders in order to replace all O-rings.
Bleeding and adjusting the system is necessary after replacing elements, flushing or eliminating leaks. First, remove the cover from the hydraulic drive reservoir and top up the fluid according to the level. After that, find the bleeder on the working cylinder, remove the cap from it and put on a thin transparent hose.
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Then it is necessary to slowly press the clutch pedal several times and fix it in the extreme position. You will need an assistant, or you can use a stop that will hold the pedal in the depressed position. Lower the other end of the transparent hose into the jar. To release the liquid, it is necessary to unscrew the union with a special key. For convenience, pour a little liquid into the jar so that the edge of the tube is in it.
So you can visually monitor the air outlet from the hydraulic clutch system of the Hyundai car. If air has escaped, then it is necessary to screw in the fitting and make a few more strokes with the pedal. These steps are repeated until all the air is gone. When the adjustment takes place, you need to monitor the fluid level in the tank, top up if necessary.
The removal of the box begins on Hyundai Santa Fe in the same way as on any other car. First of all, the battery is turned off and removed to the side so as not to interfere. Then you need to turn off the air filter air duct. After that, the filter itself is dismantled.
The next step is to disconnect the connector from the toggle switch of the lights signaling reverse movement. Further, the pipelines of the hydraulic drive of the clutch system are disconnected together with the stoppers. And only now can the slave cylinder be removed.
Then the speedometer cable turns off and you can proceed to the selection and gear shift cables. Next, the starter is removed and retracted to the side, after which the upper bolts connecting the gearbox to the internal combustion engine are unscrewed. Now the most important point is fixing the engine.
A traverse is required with which the Hyundai Santa Fe motor will be held in one position. The support bracket is removed from the gearbox and the support.
Now the oil is drained from the box and the steering rods, ball and grenades are separated. The universal joint of the steering shaft is separated by unscrewing the fixing bolt, and the front exhaust pipe is removed. And after removing the two brackets from the box, you can begin to dismantle it.
For convenience, you need to install a support under it and separate it from the engine with a crowbar. The main thing is that the support has a large area of contact with the gearbox housing.Otherwise, the transmission may be damaged. Now only clutch replacement is possible. To do this, you will need to evenly unscrew all the bolts that secure the basket to the flywheel.
You must twist them 1-1.5 turns at a time in a crisscross pattern to avoid deformation of the basket. It is advisable to outline the position of the pressure plate relative to the flywheel, otherwise it is unlikely that it will be possible to adjust the mechanism later. But if you change the basket too, then these rules can be neglected.
The new clutch kit includes a plastic guide. It will be useful to you during installation, you need to put it on the driven disk, after which the basket is placed on top and aligned with the guides on the flywheel.
The pressure plate is tightened in the same way as unscrewing, evenly, 1-1.5 turns at a time. Now change the release bearing and put the box back. All further adjustment consists in choosing the optimal pedal free travel.
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