DIY repair of the vaz 07 gearbox

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the VAZ 07 gearbox from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The VAZ 2107 gearbox is a rather complex device, so its repair is usually entrusted to professional car mechanics. However, this is a feasible task for those who already have experience in repairing complex units. Therefore, knowledge about the device and methods of repairing the VAZ 2107 gearbox will not be superfluous for the owners of the "seven".

The gearbox is designed to transfer torque from the engine to the transmission. Depending on the position of the lever, it changes the crankshaft torque in magnitude and direction of rotation. The "five-speed" box VAZ 2107, formally speaking, has six speeds - 5 forward and reverse.

The VAZ 2107 gearbox (“5 mortar”) has a housing, inside of which there are:

input shaft with 4 gears;
secondary shaft with 10 gears;
intermediate shaft.
forks, joints and gear levers.

In the event of a gearbox malfunction, it must be dismantled and disassembled for repair.

To dismantle the VAZ 2107 manual transmission, you must perform the following steps:

After that, you can start checking and repairing the VAZ 2107 gearbox (“5-mortar”).

After repair, the box is installed in the reverse order.

Before starting work, the outer surface of the gearbox should be thoroughly cleaned and washed with kerosene.

Important: before repairing the VAZ 2107 gearbox, it is necessary to drain the transmission oil from it. It is easier to do this before removing from the car.

Further actions are performed in the following sequence:

[tip] Important: the repair of the VAZ 2107 gearbox implies the obligatory replacement of all gaskets with new ones. Therefore, before starting work, you should stock up on a set of gaskets. [/ Tip]

Video (click to play).

I bring to your attention an article on repairing a 5-speed gearbox of a new design (the so-called "torn package")
Some of the photos of the process will be repeated, please do not kick too much, the photos were mainly taken during assembly, since the checkpoint and parts were washed, and the camera remained clean :).
What additional tool is required? Input shaft retainer (I made from an old clutch disc hub), a high “30” head for loosening the output shaft nut, a pair of powerful screwdrivers, a circlip remover, an impact screwdriver with a hammer, and ideally a torque wrench.

It is unlikely that anyone will have a special stand for repairing the checkpoint at hand, in principle, you can sort it out on the table, and you can also gently clamp it in a vice.
So, we drain the oil from the gearbox, remove the gearbox from the car, remove the elastic coupling, the rear cushion of the gearbox along with the traverse and take out the clutch fork with the boot and the clutch release.
Thoroughly clean the gearbox from dirt using a metal brush, a suitable tool such as a screwdriver, ideally blow it through with a compressor.

Although the oil is drained, there is still a little oil left in the gearbox, so we take this fact into account when disassembling it.
Remove the lower gearbox cover.

We remove the rubber boot of the coupling from the secondary shaft, the stopper from the secondary shaft, use a suitable punch to knock out the centering sleeve of the coupling. If it is not possible to “pick up” the sleeve, then unscrew the nut of the secondary shaft as far as possible and wrap it back.
At the same time, the bushing will almost come off its habitat. We turn on any gear, fix the input shaft, and unscrew the nut of the output shaft by “30”. Remove the conical spring washer.

If there is no retainer for the input shaft at hand, then you can use an aluminum spoon by inserting its handle between the gears of the input and intermediate shafts. Do not be afraid for the gears, the lumin will not harm them.
Remove the flange of the flexible coupling.

We turn off the switch for the reversing lights.Do not lose the copper sealing washer.

We unscrew the nut and take out the speedometer drive

We turn on the second gear and remove the gear lever housing by unscrewing three nuts along the outer radius.

We unscrew the two nuts securing the bracket of the pants to the gearbox

Remove the bracket and remove the square head bolt underneath.

We unscrew the five nuts securing the rear cover on the outside and one on the inside.

Remove the back cover, sometimes you have to hit it with a hammer slightly, the bearings may come loose.
part of the bearing remains on the shaft, part in the back cover, no big deal.

Remove the inner bearing ring from the secondary shaft (hereinafter referred to as P.), then remove the speedometer drive gear.
AHTUNG! There is a small ball under the drive gear, don’t lose it!

We remove the slinger washer and examine it, there was a case when the washer came off the bushing.

Using a screwdriver, set the 1-2 gear shift rod to neutral.
We fix the input shaft and move the head on the “17” bolt of the gear block. Then it will go by hand,
but do not turn it away yet.

Now you need to remove the clutch cover (aka bell). Unscrew one nut at “13” and six nuts at “17”.

Remove, set aside. A spring cone washer remains on the input shaft, or in the bell.
We examine it for chafing, cracks; sometimes, instead of a conical washer, there may be a thick ring.

Holding the input shaft with a retainer, unscrew the front intermediate shaft bolt (hereinafter referred to as the washer shaft) with the head on “19”.

We unscrew the two bolts of the plate holding the springs of the clamps of the gear shift rods.

There are three springs under the plate, two of the same length (for rods of 1-2 and 3-4 gears) and one longer (for the 5th gear and reverse gear).
We take out the springs.

There are three balls under the springs, they are in oil, they do not fall out by themselves, but still keep an eye on them
in the process of further disassembly.

Now we unscrew the bolt of the gear block and take it out. Now take out the block of gears. Move back and sideways.
The gears of the 5th gear move back a little.

A spacer ring is installed between the gear block and the rear shaft of the shaft; it sometimes sticks to the gear block.
and disappears at the most inopportune moment.

We remove the 5th gear gear assembly from the secondary shaft with the 5th gear shift rod, with the gear Z.H., the clutch.

Remove the spacer ring.

Using a suitable thin object, push the ball of the retainer out of the socket. I use a tube from VD 40, it is flexible.

Now with pliers we open the locking ring of the V-gear synchronizer coupling hub and remove it.

Remove the hub from the secondary shaft of the gearbox.

Remove the spring washer. It is facing the gear Z.Kh.

Remove the reverse gear

Now you need to remove the washer shaft. To do this, you need to remove the front bearing.
Sometimes it is enough to hook onto the retaining ring with screwdrivers and the P. will come out.

Sometimes he does not want to slide, then he has to screw the bolt several turns into the hole and, creating an emphasis with a screwdriver, slightly
knock on the bolt with a hammer and move the bearing.

Now we remove the rear P. of the scrubber by pushing it out of the housing with a screwdriver.

We unscrew the bolt securing the 3-4 gears fork to the 3-4 gear shift rod with the head on “10”.

We take out the stem and at the same time pull out the plug.

AHTUNG! There is a small lock block in the selector rod which may fall out when the rod is pulled out.

Then we remove the blocking cracker from the gearbox housing.

We take out the ball of the retainer.

We unscrew the bolt securing the 1-2 gear fork to the 1-2 gear shift rod with the head on “10”.

We take out the stem and at the same time pull out the plug.

Then we remove the blocking cracker from the gearbox housing.

We take out the ball of the retainer.

Remove the needle bearing and examine the friction surfaces of the needle bearing inside the input shaft and on the output shaft.
If there are traces of chipping, then the shaft will have to be changed.

We wash the bearing and carefully inspect it, the treadmill and balls should not have traces of chipping, pitting
The oil lubricated bearing should run quietly, without jamming or noise.
This is what a worn-out treadmill looks like - the cause of the noise

If it becomes necessary to replace the bearing, then:
Remove the retaining ring from the outer bearing race

Using a puller, we remove the retaining ring, if it does not slide out of its place, then we knock it down with a punch,
remove the spring washer

We press out the bearing and press on a new one.
blow along the shaft

Using an impact screwdriver and a hammer, pull off and unscrew the three screws of the locking plate.

The screws can be reused in the absence of damage, but we always install new castellated washers during assembly.
Remove the locking plate.

We remove the bearing from the gearbox housing assembly with a lock washer.

Holding the gears on the shaft, pull out the secondary shaft assembly from the gearbox housing.

This is what the removed output shaft assembly looks like.

Remove the 3-4 gears clutch from the shaft, inspect the clutch; there should be no dents on the teeth.
Now we disassemble the output shaft for inspection of 1st and 2nd gears. All parts are simply removed from the shaft.
Sometimes the 1-2 gear hub can sit tight enough, a couple of light blows to the 2nd gear gear and the hub will come off.
This is how the 1st and 2nd gear parts removed from the secondary shaft look.

If you need to get access to the 3rd gear gear and the locking ring, then we disassemble the shaft in the following order:
We clamp the shaft in a vice through a rag.

It will not work to unclench the stopper, we knock it out of place with a punch, the ring will pop out by itself.

Remove the 3rd gear assembly.

We put in place the gear, hub, spring ring.

Using a circlip remover, we put the circlip as close as possible to its place on the shaft.

Using a punch with a blow from above and around the perimeter of the ring, we plant the retaining ring in place.

We inspect the gears, the teeth should not have nicks, the edges should be sharp

We inspect the gears; chipped teeth are not allowed.
When buying a new gear, pay attention to the teeth of the gear itself - there should be no nicks or other defects.
There were new gears with nicks, as a result of which the noise was provided.
We inspect the synchronizer blocking ring, it should not have marks from the coupling (notches along the ring or an annular groove)
In the photo on the left is a worn ring, on the right is a new one

To replace the locking ring, press the ring against the gear (compressing the spring)
and unclench the locking ring with a puller

Remove the stopper and locking ring

We put a new ring, put it back, check the ease of movement, it should not jam.

We inspect the clutch-nicks on the teeth, there should be no signs of wear in the groove under the fork
Worn coupling

We inspect the shift forks; wear on the working surface of the fork is not allowed.
For comparison, a new and worn fork

We change the input shaft oil seal.
From the clutch side, through a hole in the guide sleeve of the release bearing with a suitable diameter punch
knock out the oil seal.

We thoroughly clean, degrease, lubricate with a thin layer of sealant,
we put the oil seal in place using the head on “32”.

Examining the clutch fork support "soldier" for wear.
We inspect the spring thrust washer (wear of the bearing surfaces, cracks are not allowed).

Put some lithol on the washer seat and put it in place. With lithol, the washer is “glued” and will not fall out during assembly.

Let's now deal with the back cover.
As a rule, a cage of one or two bearings remains in it, and the oil seal also needs to be changed.
We knock out the plug with an extension cord.

We knock out the oil seal with a screwdriver.

Using a screwdriver and a hammer, knock the bearings out of the back cover housing. sit without tension, so they knock out easily.

We wash the body, degrease the gland seats and plugs.
Apply sealant to the gland seats and plugs.
We press in the oil seal and the plug.

Of course, everyone knows that it is better to trust professionals to repair the engine or gearbox of a car. But for every owner of a VAZ 2107, it will not be superfluous to know how to remove the box and repair it yourself.

The five-speed gearbox of the VAZ 2107 needs repair when the following signs appear:

the appearance of a hum or an increase in the usual noises;
Difficulty shifting gears;
spontaneous shutdown while driving;

Disassembled gearbox for VAZ 2107.

The gearbox has 5 forward and one reverse gears. The gearshift scheme completely coincides with the transmissions of the previous classic Zhiguli models. The principle of operation of the box is classic.

Gear shifting is carried out using a handle that goes directly into the gearbox. Another advantage is the presence of five gears that are longer. But unlike front-wheel drive, there is no way to mount a sixth gear.

If the following malfunctions appear, a complete repair must be carried out:

oil leakage from under oil seals and gaskets;
increased noise in the box;
transmission departure;
does not stick in and does not turn on the transfer;
vibration in 5th gear;
crunch of box synchronizers.

To carry out installation and dismantling work, and repair the gearbox, you must have a minimum set of automotive locksmith (keys, screwdrivers, hammer, etc.).

The big advantage of the VAZ 2107 gearbox is that you do not need to look for expensive equipment for repairs.

The first thing to do before starting to dismantle the box is to get the repair manual. It is important to carry out the repair work in the correct sequence.

Before dismantling work, it is necessary to completely wash the gearbox from dirt and oil so that dirt particles do not get inside the gearbox, and also take the following tool: torque wrench, puller, impact screwdriver, sealant.

Torque wrench for dismantling the gearbox.

Removal of the checkpoint is carried out according to the following scheme:

Place the car on the overpass.
Disconnect earth from battery.
Press the 5-mortar lever and insert a screwdriver into the hole in the locking sleeve, slide it down and out of the plane.
Remove the rod installed on the gearshift knob.
Clear the floor of the cabin near the backstage.
Go under the car and drain the oil. Then you need to loosen the 4 bolts on the cover.
Remove the downstream exhaust pipe, then open the hood and remove the starter from the engine.
Dismantle the propeller shaft to disconnect it from the final drive (differential).
Disconnect transmission from clutch. To disconnect the drive shaft from the clutch, you need to squeeze it and pull the box towards you.

In the clutch bell, remove the release bearing sleeve and fork.
Unscrew the box cushion and the speedometer drive.
Disconnect the output shaft and universal joint and pull out the flexible coupling flange.
Loosen the bolts of the lower box cover and remove it.

Removing the gearbox cover of the VAZ-2107.

After removing the gearbox cover, there is full access to the insides, so that an external review of the defects can be carried out.

Further disassembly steps must be carried out very carefully so as not to damage the teeth of the gears and synchronizers.

In order to accurately press out the shaft and bearings, you must have a few pieces of wood with you.

Press out the bearings.
Remove the output shaft oil seals.
Remove the washer on the bearing inner race.
Take a block and press out the rear shaft bearing, then remove the ring from the shaft.

This completes the dismantling work. Next, you need to conduct a thorough troubleshooting and replace parts subject to wear. It is advisable to buy a set of gearbox bearings, gaskets and replace the oil seals, regardless of their condition.

Installation of a gearbox on a VAZ 2107.

Installation of the gearbox must be carried out in the reverse order.Before installation, the main thing is not to forget to lubricate the universal joint and the cross-piece so that the transmission is completely serviceable.

The defects listed below are most often found on VAZ 2107 cars. It is important to diagnose the malfunction in time and try to repair it.

Generates increased noise or howling of the gearbox, bearings and synchronizers, which are suitable for replacement. To find out whether it is necessary to change the bearing, it is enough to visually look at it and twist it. Synchronizers often lick the teeth, which entails a crunchy gear change.

After making sure that the clutch is in working order, you need to look for the reasons in the following:

the hinge of the gearshift lever is clogged (it can be treated with ordinary cleaning);
the shift fork is deformed (if the deformation is insignificant, then it can be straightened);
the sliding clutch and the shift fork rod are tight.

After a complete disassembly of the gearbox, it will be clear why the gear was knocked out.

Search for the reasons for knocking out the transfer.

wear of the blocking ring, clutch and synchronizer ring gear;
loss of elasticity of the retainer spring;
breakage of the synchronizer spring.

In these cases, only a complete replacement of parts helps.

Again, there are 3 reasons for the appearance of this defect:

skip oil seals;
the tightening of the cover bolts has been loosened;
damaged gasket.

Tips for the correct operation of the VAZ 2107 gearbox.

The gearbox, thanks to its simple design, is reliable, but at the same time has minor flaws and constant micro-breakages.

In order for the gearbox to serve for a long time, you need to follow the instructions:

do not start from slipping, as this leads to a quick response of the surface of the teeth of the synchronizer gears;
when shifting gears, survive the clutch until it stops;
it is necessary to switch gears sequentially, without jumping over one or several;
change the oil on time and of a certain brand, following the operating instructions.

If a sports box is going to be assembled, for example, the R1 sports series, then you need to buy reinforced synchronizers for better gearbox performance. The sports row differs in the number of teeth and workmanship. When assembling, check the cuffs for oil leaks.

The filling volume of the crater is 1.9 liters. After filling, check the oil level in the box.

Along with the engine, the gearbox is one of the most important components of any car. With its help, the torque of the motor is changed and transmitted to the wheels, so that the speed of the machine can be adjusted.

The design of the VAZ-2107 car uses the so-called 5th mortar, or five-speed transmission. In case of its breakdowns, the manufacturer strongly recommends contacting specialists, however, if all our recommendations are followed, you can easily cope with the repair of this complex unit on your own. The main thing is to correctly determine this or that malfunction and find the reasons for its occurrence.

Repair of the VAZ-2107 gearbox may be required if the following symptoms of incorrect operation are detected:

difficulties arise with shifting gears, the lever is very tight and requires considerable physical effort from the driver;
gears change by themselves;
there is extraneous noise from the box while the car is moving;
transmission fluid leaks.

As you can see, there are not so many common gearbox breakdowns, despite its rather complex design and a large number of parts. At the same time, to eliminate them, it is imperative to remove and disassemble the transmission.

This process is quite complicated, so if you intend to carry out dismantling yourself, we recommend using the help of your friends or acquaintances who have an idea of \ u200b \ u200bthe design of a car.

Disassembly and assembly of the gearbox when any malfunction is detected should be carried out in the following sequence:

we de-energize the system by removing the negative contact from the battery;
dismantle the radio panel;
slightly move down the locking sleeve and remove it from the rod cavity;
with a sharp movement, pull the rod out of the gearshift lever;
remove the upper and lower bushings from the lever;
dismantle the gearbox cover, which is fixed with four screws;
we remove the cover that protects the handbrake from dirt, and then unscrew all the fasteners located on the floor of the car;
dismantle the hoses through which warm air is supplied to the air filter;
move the starter forward a little, then unscrew the gearbox crankcase plug and drain the transmission oil;
dismantle the muffler and turn off the cardan clutch, reverse switch and speedometer cable, which connects the part to the gearbox;
disassemble the clutch housing cover and cardan transmission;
disconnect the last gearbox mounts, move it back a little and remove it outside.

First of all, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the box of dirt and oil, and also blow through all bearings and rubbing parts with a compressor. After that, we carefully examine the transmission for cracks, chips and other defects. In most cases, damaged parts need to be replaced with new ones in order to ensure smooth operation of the gearbox.

In addition, it is important to check the oil seals that act as seals - often it is their wear that leads to leakage and transmission oil leakage.

After replacing failed or worn-out elements, the transmission is assembled in the following sequence:

placement in the housing of the secondary shaft box, installation of the bearing and its fixation;
installation of gear shifting forks. This is the most critical stage, since it is necessary to place the parts in a strictly defined sequence by the manufacturer. First, the stock of the first and second gears is laid, then a long cracker, and after it - a fork of the third and fourth speeds with a short cracker;
installation of the intermediate shaft;
installation of the fifth gear and reverse switch.

The gearbox is mounted in the reverse order to that described above. If you are not sure that you can cope with a rather complicated procedure of disassembly, repair and assembly, it is better to use the help of a specialist, which will eliminate the occurrence of any problems and ensure the normal operation of the transmission on your car.

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Video (click to play).