DIY repair of the VAZ 2105 gearbox

Repair of the gearbox is carried out in the event of failure of its constituent elements. Some work is performed after dismantling the VAZ gearbox. This will require screwdrivers, keys, a jack. Before removing this unit, it is necessary to drive the vehicle onto an inspection pit or overpass.

Repair of the VAZ 2105 gearbox is carried out after disconnecting the minus terminal from the battery. In this case, the manual transmission scheme is used. Then they shoot:

To dismantle the last unit, you will need to lift it and use a screwdriver to unscrew the latch. The spring is removed from the lever with tweezers. Next, the damper bushing is removed. To remove the last element, flat screwdrivers are used, which open the locking tabs.

Self-tapping screws are unscrewed along the perimeter, the cover and the protective rubber casing are dismantled. After that, the starter, intake manifold and propeller shaft are removed. The speedometer drive cable is disconnected from the VAZ 2105 gearbox. Next, the cylinder is dismantled from the clutch housing and the bolts that secure the rear support of the power unit are loosened.

The next step is to remove the clutch housing inspection cover and place a secure support under the gearbox. With the help of a large flat screwdriver, the gearbox is removed from the studs. After removing the input shaft from the driven disc, the gearbox is dismantled. When carrying out this procedure, much attention is paid to the input shaft. It should not hang on the disc, otherwise the part will be damaged. Upon completion of the repair work, the gearbox is mounted in its original place, taking into account the reverse sequence of actions.

An important point is the gearbox oil change. This procedure should be carried out every 35 thousand km of run or after 3 years of operation of the VAZ 2105.

If you are buying a used car, you need to check the condition and oil level in the gearbox. The grease change is carried out in the following situations:

• the level of the substance is below the required,
• presence of silvery dust,
• black grease.

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It is recommended to change the oil in the gearbox and gearbox at the same time. To do this, it is enough to purchase 3 liters of 80w90 grease. The procedure is carried out on the flyover. The process of filling the gearbox and gearbox with oil creates many problems. For its implementation, an oil pump or a large syringe and an elastic tube, previously put on it, are used. A rubber hose and a watering can also be used. The last element is inserted into a hose, the end of which is brought out into the engine compartment. The negative point of this method is the heating of the oil.

To carry out the work, you will need the following tools:

The oil change in the VAZ 2105 gearbox is carried out as follows.

1. Unscrewing the drain plug - a hex wrench is used for this.
2. Draining the oil into a container prepared in advance.
3. Unscrewing the drain plug with a key "17".
4. Fluid dripping.
5. Tightening the drain plug.
6. Filling the substance by any method - using a blower, syringe, filler funnel and rubber hose - up to the lower limit of the filler hole.
7. Twisting the plug.

The process of changing the oil in the rear axle gearbox of this vehicle is carried out in a similar way. First, the drain plug is removed, then a similar gearbox part is unscrewed. The transmission oil is poured to the lower level.

If the fluid in the gearbox or in the gearbox is dirty, flush the gearbox or gearbox housing. For these purposes, the oil is mixed with a diesel analogue, while the diesel fuel must be at least 30%.Grease is poured into the gearbox or gearbox. Further, the rear wheel of the VAZ 2105 is lifted onto a jack. The engine starts, the first gear is engaged. In this position, the car runs for 3-4 minutes. The oil is then drained and fresh transmission fluid is added. The crankcase flushing process is carried out both independently and with the help of professionals. In any case, you must adhere to the above recommendations.

I bring to your attention an article on repairing a 5-speed gearbox of a new design (the so-called "torn package")
Some of the photos of the process will be repeated, please do not kick too much, the photos were mainly taken during assembly, since the checkpoint and parts were washed, and the camera remained clean :).
What additional tool is required? Input shaft retainer (I made from an old clutch disc hub), a high “30” head for loosening the output shaft nut, a pair of powerful screwdrivers, a circlip remover, an impact screwdriver with a hammer, and ideally a torque wrench.

It is unlikely that anyone will have a special stand for repairing the checkpoint at hand, in principle, you can sort it out on the table, and you can also gently clamp it in a vice.
So, we drain the oil from the gearbox, remove the gearbox from the car, remove the elastic coupling, the rear cushion of the gearbox along with the traverse and take out the clutch fork with the boot and the clutch release.
Thoroughly clean the gearbox from dirt using a metal brush, a suitable tool such as a screwdriver, ideally blow it through with a compressor.

Although the oil is drained, there is still a little oil left in the gearbox, so we take this fact into account when disassembling it.
Remove the lower gearbox cover.

We remove the rubber boot of the coupling from the secondary shaft, the stopper from the secondary shaft, use a suitable punch to knock out the centering sleeve of the coupling. If it is not possible to “pick up” the sleeve, then unscrew the nut of the secondary shaft as far as possible and wrap it back.
At the same time, the bushing will almost come off its habitat. We turn on any gear, fix the input shaft, and unscrew the nut of the output shaft by “30”. Remove the conical spring washer.

If there is no retainer for the input shaft at hand, then you can use an aluminum spoon by inserting its handle between the gears of the input and intermediate shafts. Do not be afraid for the gears, the lumin will not harm them.
Remove the flange of the flexible coupling.

We turn off the switch for the reversing lights. Do not lose the copper sealing washer.

We unscrew the nut and take out the speedometer drive

We turn on the second gear and remove the gear lever housing by unscrewing three nuts along the outer radius.

We unscrew the two nuts securing the bracket of the pants to the gearbox

Remove the bracket and remove the square head bolt underneath.

We unscrew the five nuts securing the rear cover on the outside and one on the inside.

Remove the back cover, sometimes you have to hit it with a hammer slightly, the bearings may come loose.
part of the bearing remains on the shaft, part in the back cover, no big deal.

Remove the inner bearing ring from the secondary shaft (hereinafter referred to as P.), then remove the speedometer drive gear.
AHTUNG! There is a small ball under the drive gear, don’t lose it!

We remove the slinger washer and examine it, there was a case when the washer came off the bushing.

Using a screwdriver, set the 1-2 gear shift rod to neutral.
We fix the input shaft and move the head on the “17” bolt of the gear block. Then it will go by hand,
but do not turn it away yet.

Now you need to remove the clutch cover (aka bell). Unscrew one nut at “13” and six nuts at “17”.

Remove, set aside. A spring cone washer remains on the input shaft, or in the bell.
We examine it for chafing, cracks; sometimes, instead of a conical washer, there may be a thick ring.

Holding the input shaft with a retainer, unscrew the front intermediate shaft bolt (hereinafter referred to as the washer shaft) with the head on “19”.

We unscrew the two bolts of the plate holding the springs of the clamps of the gear shift rods.

There are three springs under the plate, two of the same length (for rods of 1-2 and 3-4 gears) and one longer (for the 5th gear and reverse gear).
We take out the springs.

There are three balls under the springs, they are in oil, they do not fall out by themselves, but still keep an eye on them
in the process of further disassembly.

Now we unscrew the bolt of the gear block and take it out. Now take out the block of gears. Move back and sideways.
The gears of the 5th gear move back a little.

A spacer ring is installed between the gear block and the rear shaft of the shaft; it sometimes sticks to the gear block.
and disappears at the most inopportune moment.

We remove the 5th gear gear assembly from the secondary shaft with the 5th gear shift rod, with the gear Z.H., the clutch.

Remove the spacer ring.

Using a suitable thin object, push the ball of the retainer out of the socket. I use a tube from VD 40, it is flexible.

Now with pliers we open the locking ring of the V-gear synchronizer coupling hub and remove it.

Remove the hub from the secondary shaft of the gearbox.

Remove the spring washer. It is facing the gear Z.Kh.

Remove the reverse gear

Now you need to remove the washer shaft. To do this, you need to remove the front bearing.
Sometimes it is enough to hook onto the retaining ring with screwdrivers and the P. will come out.

Sometimes he does not want to slide, then he has to screw the bolt several turns into the hole and, creating an emphasis with a screwdriver, slightly
knock on the bolt with a hammer and move the bearing.

Now we remove the rear P. of the scrubber by pushing it out of the housing with a screwdriver.

We unscrew the bolt securing the 3-4 gears fork to the 3-4 gear shift rod with the head on “10”.

We take out the stem and at the same time pull out the plug.

AHTUNG! There is a small lock block in the selector rod which may fall out when the rod is pulled out.

Then we remove the blocking cracker from the gearbox housing.

We take out the ball of the retainer.

We unscrew the bolt securing the 1-2 gear fork to the 1-2 gear shift rod with the head on “10”.

We take out the stem and at the same time pull out the plug.

Then we remove the blocking cracker from the gearbox housing.

We take out the ball of the retainer.

Remove the needle bearing and examine the friction surfaces of the needle bearing inside the input shaft and on the output shaft.
If there are traces of chipping, then the shaft will have to be changed.

We wash the bearing and carefully inspect it, the treadmill and balls should not have traces of chipping, pitting
The oil lubricated bearing should run quietly, without jamming or noise.
This is what a worn-out treadmill looks like - the cause of the noise

If it becomes necessary to replace the bearing, then:
Remove the retaining ring from the outer bearing race

Using a puller, we remove the retaining ring, if it does not slide out of its place, then we knock it down with a punch,
remove the spring washer

We press out the bearing and press on a new one.
blow along the shaft

Using an impact screwdriver and a hammer, pull off and unscrew the three screws of the locking plate.

The screws can be reused in the absence of damage, but we always install new castellated washers during assembly.
Remove the locking plate.

We remove the bearing from the gearbox housing assembly with a lock washer.

Holding the gears on the shaft, pull out the secondary shaft assembly from the gearbox housing.

This is what the removed output shaft assembly looks like.

Remove the 3-4 gears clutch from the shaft, inspect the clutch; there should be no dents on the teeth.
Now we disassemble the output shaft for inspection of 1st and 2nd gears. All parts are simply removed from the shaft.
Sometimes the 1-2 gear hub can sit tight enough, a couple of light blows to the 2nd gear gear and the hub will come off.
This is how the 1st and 2nd gear parts removed from the secondary shaft look.

If you need to get access to the 3rd gear gear and the locking ring, then we disassemble the shaft in the following order:
We clamp the shaft in a vice through a rag.

It will not work to unclench the stopper, we knock it out of place with a punch, the ring will pop out by itself.

Remove the 3rd gear assembly.

We put in place the gear, hub, spring ring.

Using a circlip remover, we put the circlip as close as possible to its place on the shaft.

Using a punch with a blow from above and around the perimeter of the ring, we plant the retaining ring in place.

We inspect the gears, the teeth should not have nicks, the edges should be sharp

We inspect the gears; chipped teeth are not allowed.
When buying a new gear, pay attention to the teeth of the gear itself - there should be no nicks or other defects.
There were new gears with nicks, as a result of which the noise was provided.
We inspect the synchronizer blocking ring, it should not have marks from the coupling (notches along the ring or an annular groove)
In the photo on the left is a worn ring, on the right is a new one

To replace the locking ring, press the ring against the gear (compressing the spring)
and unclench the locking ring with a puller

Remove the stopper and locking ring

We put a new ring, put it back, check the ease of movement, it should not jam.

We inspect the clutch-nicks on the teeth, there should be no signs of wear in the groove under the fork
Worn coupling

We inspect the shift forks; wear on the working surface of the fork is not allowed.
For comparison, a new and worn fork

We change the input shaft oil seal.
From the clutch side, through a hole in the guide sleeve of the release bearing with a suitable diameter punch
knock out the oil seal.

We thoroughly clean, degrease, lubricate with a thin layer of sealant,
we put the oil seal in place using the head on “32”.

Examining the clutch fork support "soldier" for wear.
We inspect the spring thrust washer (wear of the bearing surfaces, cracks are not allowed).

Put some lithol on the washer seat and put it in place. With lithol, the washer is “glued” and will not fall out during assembly.

Let's now deal with the back cover.
As a rule, a cage of one or two bearings remains in it, and the oil seal also needs to be changed.
We knock out the plug with an extension cord.

We knock out the oil seal with a screwdriver.

Using a screwdriver and a hammer, knock the bearings out of the back cover housing. sit without tension, so they knock out easily.

We wash the body, degrease the gland seats and plugs.
Apply sealant to the gland seats and plugs.
We press in the oil seal and the plug.

Flush the gearbox and install it on the bench. Drain the oil and remove the bottom cover with gasket.

Remove the clutch release drive plug, and from the guide sleeve of the front cover of the gearbox - the clutch assembly with the bearing and the connecting spring.

• Internal view of the clutch housing. Red arrows indicate the nuts securing the clutch housing to the gearbox
• a white arrow indicates a hole in the front cover for draining oil from the gearbox housing to prevent oiling of the clutch discs

Remove the clutch housing with gasket and gearbox front cover (complete with oil seal and spring washer).

Remove the speedometer drive with gasket and reversing light switch, being careful not to deform its housing.

Remove the bolt securing the forks of III and IV gears. Install the retainer 41.7816.4068 on the input shaft or engage two gears at the same time. This will prevent the primary, secondary and intermediate shafts from turning and will allow subsequent operations to disassemble the box of the VAZ 2107.

Disconnect the retaining ring from the end of the output shaft of the VAZ 2105 gearbox.

• Removing the centering ring of the elastic coupling of the propeller shaft using a pusher А.40006 / 1 and a puller А.40005 / 4

With the lock washer open, back off the nut a few turns to move the elastic coupling centering ring and re-tighten the nut. Using a pusher А.40006 / 1 with a puller А.40005 / 4, remove the centering ring of the elastic coupling of the propeller shaft from the end of the output shaft.

• Removing the flange of the elastic coupling with a stripper A..40005 / 3 / 9B / 9C
• 1 - flexible coupling flange
• 2 - bolts of fastening of the device to the flange
• 3 - strip 9C of the stripper А.40005 / 3
• 4 - stripper А.40005 / 3

Pull out the seal of the centering ring of the elastic coupling from the end of the output shaft, unscrew the nut and remove the flange of the elastic coupling with a puller А.40005 / 3 / 9B / 9C.

• Interior view of the rear gearbox cover
• 1 - a screw with an eyelet for fastening the recoil spring of the gear lever
• 2 - lever pull-back spring
• 3 - gear shift lever
• 4 - screw for limiting the lateral stroke of the lever. The arrow indicates the direction in which you need to move the lever to disengage it with the heads of the gear shift rods and remove the rear cover of the gearbox

• - Remove the rear cover of the gearbox by unscrewing the nuts of its fastening and the screw 4 for limiting the lateral travel of the lever and moving the VAZ 2107 gearshift lever to the left to free it from the gearshift rods.
• - Remove the rear bearing from the output shaft. Remove the drive gear of the speedometer drive
• - Remove the fork with the distance sleeve from the reverse gear rod. Remove the intermediate reverse gear of the VAZ 2105 from the axle.

• Removing the reverse gear circlip from the intermediate shaft

• - Remove the circlip of the reverse drive gear from the intermediate shaft; remove the gear and spring washer.
• - Remove the circulating reverse gear retaining ring from the output shaft, pressing the spring washer with a mandrel 41.7816.4069 to relieve the load on the retaining ring. Remove the reverse driven gear and spring washer.
• - Using curly mandrels (such as screwdrivers) and rod punches, remove the front and rear countershaft bearings from the gearbox housing. On the inner rings of the double-row front bearing, make marks along which these rings are installed in their original places in the outer ring of the bearing.

• Removing the intermediate shaft from the gearbox housing

Remove the intermediate shaft of the VAZ 2104 from the gearbox housing by tilting it.

• Gear shift drive VAZ 2104
• 1 - reverse gear fork
• 2 - pull-back spring of the gear lever
• 3 - the guiding cup of the lever
• 4 - ball bearing of the lever
• 5 - gear shift lever
• 6 - spherical washer
• 7 - lever spring
• 8 - retaining ring
• 9 - damper locking sleeve
• 10 - elastic bushings of the damper
• 11 - damper distance sleeve
• 12 - persistent damper pad
• 13 - rod of the gear lever
• 14 - plug of switching off of III and IV transfers
• 15 - plug of inclusion of I and II transfers
• 16 - rod of the plug of inclusion of I and II gears
• 17 - rod of the plug of inclusion of III and IV transfers
• 18 - rod of a fork of inclusion of a backing
• 19 - blocking crackers
• 20 - retainer cover
• 21 - bushing
• 22 - retainer spring
• 23 - retainer ball
• 24 - the rear cover of the transmission
• 25 - reversing light switch
• 26 - distance sleeve of the reverse fork rod

Remove the cover of the 20 stem retainers along with the gasket, remove the retainer springs and balls. Remove from the gearbox housing the reverse rod 18, the rod 17 of the shift forks of III and IV gears. Unscrew the bolt securing the forks of the 1st and 2nd gears, remove the rod and forks. Pulling out the rods, simultaneously remove the three locking pieces 19.

• Loosen the screws securing the locking plate of the intermediate bearing of the secondary shaft with a drill-screwdriver. The arrow shows the direction of the shock stroke of the screwdriver holder; use a hammer

Remove the pinion shaft intermediate bearing retaining plate and reverse idler pinion axle.

• Removing the input shaft from the gearbox housing

Using mandrels (such as screwdrivers), remove the input shaft together with the bearing and synchronizer ring and remove the needle bearing from the front end of the output shaft.

• Removing the output shaft from the gearbox housing

Knock out the secondary shaft from the intermediate bearing, remove the intermediate bearing and, tilting, remove the secondary shaft complete with gears, couplings and synchronizer rings from the crankcase. Remove the synchronizer sleeve for III and IV gears from the shaft

• Input shaft parts
• 1 - retaining ring
• 2 - spring washer
• 3 - bearing
• 4 - primary shaft
• 5 - synchronizer spring
• 6 - the blocking ring of the synchronizer
• 7 - retaining ring
• 8 - bearing

• - remove the locking ring 7, the locking ring 6 and the spring 5 of the synchronizer;
• - install the shaft on the press and, pressing the spring washer 2 with a mandrel 41.7816.4069, remove the circlip 1, then the spring washer and bearing 3.

• Output shaft parts
• 1 - retaining ring
• 2 - spring washer
• 3 - synchronizer hub
• 4 - synchronizer clutch
• 5 - retaining ring
• 6 - the blocking ring of the synchronizer
• 7 - synchronizer spring
• 8 - washer
• 9 - gear wheel of III transfer
• 10 - secondary shaft
• 11 - gear wheel of II transfer
• 12 - washer
• 13 - synchronizer spring
• 14 - blocking ring
• 15 - retaining ring
• 16 - synchronizer hub
• 17 - synchronizer clutch
• 18 - retaining ring
• 19 - blocking ring of the synchronizer
• 20 - synchronizer spring
• 21 - washer
• 22 - gear wheel of I transfer
• 23 - bushing of the gear wheel of the 1st transfer
• 24 - bearing
• 25 - reverse gear
• 26 - spring washer
• 27 - retaining ring
• 28 - speedometer drive gear
• 29 - rear bearing
• 30 - stuffing box
• 31 - flexible coupling flange
• 32 - nut
• 33 - seal
• 34 - centering ring
• 35 - retaining ring

• - remove from the rear side of the shaft the gear wheel 22 of the 1st gear with the bushing 23, the hub 16 with the sliding clutch for switching the 1st and 2nd gears, the gear wheel 11 of the 2nd gear together with the blocking ring 14 of the synchronizer;

• Retaining ring on the output shaft
• 1 - mandrel 41.7816.4069
• 2 - retaining ring
• 3 - support half-ring
• 4 - spring washer
• 5 - press rod

• - install the secondary shaft with the mandrel 41.7816.4069 on the press, place the support half rings 3 under the gear wheel of the III transfer, and, pressing the mandrel on the spring washer, remove the circlip 2, then the spring washer 4, the hub of the sliding clutch of the III and IV gears and gear III transmission.

Disassemble the gear lever and rear cover:

• Gear Lever Parts
• 1 - pull-back spring bolt
• 2 - washer
• 3 - return spring
• 4 - gasket
• 5 - guide cup
• 6 - gasket
• 7 - washer
• 8 - limiting bolt
• 9 - gear shift lever
• 10 - ball joint
• 11 - spherical washer
• 12 - spring
• 13 - support washer
• 14 - retaining ring
• 15 - gasket
• 16 - flange
• 17 - spring washer
• 18 - nut
• 19 - cuff
• 20 - inner cover
• 21 - lever rod
• 22 - handle
• 23 - persistent pad
• 24 - elastic bushing
• 25 - distance sleeve
• 26 - elastic bushing
• 27 - locking sleeve

• - remove the cover 20 of the lever, then the retaining ring 14, washer 13, spring 12 and spherical washer 11;
• - disconnect the pull-back spring 3 of the lever from the eyelet of the bolt 1;
• - remove the collar 19, unscrew the nuts securing the flange 16 and remove the lever together with the flange, support 10 and cup 5.

• Assembling the gearbox

is carried out in the reverse order of disassembly. Please note that:

• - the spring 22 of the ball of the reversing fork rod retainer differs from others in elasticity, it is painted green or has a cadmium coating;
• - when installing the clutch housing with the front cover of the Lada classic gearbox, the hole in the front cover should be located like this;
• - before installation, cover the working surface of the oil seals with LITOL-24 grease;
• - when assembling the secondary and intermediate shafts, use mandrels 41.7853.4028, 41.7853.4032, 41.7853.4039;

• Installation on the secondary shaft of the circlip of the reverse gear
• 1 - spring washer
• 2 - mandrel 41.7816.4069
• 3 - locking ring
• 4 - a gear wheel of a reverse gear of a secondary shaft

• - when installing the reverse gear retaining ring, use the mandrel 41.7816.4069.

When designing the Vaz-2105, the designers slightly reworked the gearbox, changing the gear ratios of each gear in it. But in general, the design of the gearbox of this car did not differ much from the previous modifications.

The first gearboxes were four-speed, three-shaft, constant-mesh gearboxes with synchronizers in all forward gears. Later, this box was modified by adding an additional 5th speed. Moreover, a 4-speed modification was taken as a basis for the creation, therefore, the 4th speed remained in the five-stage direct transmission.

Subsequently, the gearbox developed for the VAZ-2105 became the main gearbox and it was equipped with all cars of the classic family until the end of their production. In the future, we will consider the maintenance of a 5-speed gearbox, since the repair of a 4-speed VAZ-2105 gearbox is done basically in the same way as for a five-step gearbox, due to the fact that the design of these gearbox versions is largely similar, then maintenance and repair operations - are identical. We will also find out how the conversion of a 4-stage modification into a five-stage is performed.

The main advantage of such a checkpoint was the high reliability of the unit and unpretentious operation, therefore, the repair of the VAZ-2105 box is not required very often, it is able to work out a significant resource without any special intervention and with minimal maintenance. Another positive quality is the maintainability and availability of spare parts and repair kits, so the 2105 gearbox can be repaired even in a garage with a basic set of tools.

But first, you should consider the maintenance that needs to be done with this node. It is just one thing - checking the level of the lubricant and, if necessary, adding it to the required level.

A manual transmission is not in itself demanding, therefore the lubricant used in it performs only one function - it lubricates the component parts of the unit. Therefore, the oil change in the box must be carried out every 60 thousand kilometers.

Before servicing the gearbox, you should know what kind of oil to fill in the VAZ-2105 box. The transmission of this car requires a gear oil with an API quality level of GL-5 or higher and a viscosity of 75W-90 or 85W-90 according to SAE classification. The volume of oil in the gearbox is 1.35 liters. - more about transmission oil.

It is not difficult to check the oil in the box, but for this the car should be placed on a viewing hole or overpass.

• On the left side of the gearbox housing (in the direction of the car), we find the control filler plug (located just above the bottom cover of the box);
• Remove the dirt around the cork with a rag;
• Unscrew the plug with a wrench of the required size;
• You can find out the level using a small mirror and a flashlight, a screwdriver or even your finger, in general, which is convenient. A normal lubricant level is considered if oil reaches the bottom edge of the hole;
• If the oil is less than the level, we bring it to normal using a technical syringe (as soon as the oil begins to flow out of the hole, we twist the plug);

Checking and adding lubricant in the gearbox should be "cold". If de maintenance is carried out immediately after the trip, it is necessary to give time (10-15 minutes) for the oil to completely drain, otherwise the level will be incorrect when checking.

If it's time to change the oil, then first drain the used lubricant - clean the bottom cover from dirt, substitute a plastic container and unscrew the drain plug.

Then we wait until the oil is completely drained and tighten the plug.

And then everything is done in the same way as when checking and replenishing the level, only the required amount of oil has to be pumped into the box with a syringe.

After replacement, you should not immediately dispose of the waste; it is better to check it before that. To do this, take a magnet, tie a thread and lower it into a container with old oil. Next, you should move the magnet along the bottom. Then we take it out and examine it. If a large amount of metal shavings are found on the magnet, this may indicate the appearance of intense wear, and in this case, the gearbox bulkhead and the troubleshooting of the component parts will not be superfluous, since it will help identify and eliminate the malfunction at an early stage.

Now let's go through the main malfunctions that can occur with the gearbox. There are not many of them, but the elimination of the majority is carried out at the checkpoint removed from the car.

So, the main faults of the VAZ-2105 gearbox are:

• Increased noise during the operation of the checkpoint (at a certain speed or at all);
• Difficult transition to another speed;
• Fuzzy switching on, knocking out speed;
• Lubricant leaks;

In turn, each malfunction can give several reasons.

The noise of the VAZ-2105 gearbox can occur due to bearing wear, wear of gear teeth and gear wheels, as well as synchronizers, axial displacement of shafts relative to each other.

With such a problem, you will definitely need to remove the box from the car, since there is no other way to repair it. Note that it is precisely the elimination of noise that is one of the most difficult to perform operations, since a complete disassembly and overhaul of the gearbox with the replacement of worn-out elements is required.

In addition to the standard set of keys and screwdrivers, you will additionally need a universal puller. Next, we will consider how the complete disassembly of the VAZ-2105 5-speed gearbox is carried out.

So, all work is done on the removed checkpoint:

Well, then the identification of the constituent elements is already carried out, the worn out and damaged units are replaced and assembled.

Note that the indicated disassembly scheme is general and does not cover such nuances as the removal of retaining rings, sealing washers, engravers and other small elements.

Now let's briefly go over other faults. Difficult gear shifting is next.

• Wear of the switching mechanism or its deformation (wings);
• Wear, the appearance of burrs on the gear shift axles or on their seats, jamming of crackers;
• Damage or wear of the splines of the sliding sleeves of the synchronizers;
• Damage and bending of the shift forks;

In the first case, to restore operability, it is not even necessary to remove the box from the car, since replacing the VAZ-2105 gearbox backstage is possible without dismantling the transmission unit.

To do this, it is enough to remove the lever, boot, plastic protective strip in order to provide access to the fasteners of the switching mechanism, which must be unscrewed in order to remove the entire mechanism. And then it is already being replaced or repaired.

Important! In a 4-speed gearbox, a recoil spring is attached to the stem from the inside of the crankcase, which ensures a constant position of the lever opposite to the 3rd-4th gear and prevents its vibration. Therefore, when removing the mechanism, first raise it slightly, and then pry the spring with a steel wire hook, remove it from the rod eyelet and hold it in a slightly taut position so that it does not fall into the crankcase. Before installing the new stage, we hook the spring with the same hook and put everything in place.

As for other breakdowns, due to which the speeds turn on poorly, you will have to remove the gearbox, disassemble it, identify the worn or damaged element and replace it.

Fuzzy switching on or knocking out speed occurs due to:

• Wear of the retainer holes in the axis, damage to its springs;
• Wear of the locking rings of synchronizers, damage to its springs or wear of the teeth;

In this case, it will not be possible to eliminate the malfunction without removing the gearbox. But, it is not always necessary to completely disassemble it.For example, if 4th gear flies out, you should immediately check the condition of the spring and the axle lock of this speed. It is with checking the clamps that the search should begin. And then, disassembling the box, we identify the true cause and eliminate it.

The last common cause is a lubricant leak. This can happen through unsecured plugs, damaged bottom cover gasket. But most often it is the input shaft oil seal that leaks.

In the first case, the problem can be eliminated simply by pulling the plugs or replacing the gasket. And for this you do not need to dismantle the checkpoint from the car. But in the case of a leak in the input shaft seal, the box will have to be removed, but you will not need to disassemble it to replace the damaged rubber element as a whole.

Replacing the gearbox oil seal, if it concerns the input shaft, is not difficult. It is located in the clutch housing, but on the inside, that is, it will have to be disconnected from the gearbox housing. And then the damaged oil seal is removed and a new one is installed.

Then everything is put back together. In the case of damage to other oil seals, the gearbox is disassembled and the damaged element is replaced.

Finally, we will consider such a question as altering the gearbox from 4 degrees to 5 VAZ-2105. Such a refinement is quite possible, since the 4-speed version was the basis for it when creating the five-stage. But at the same time it will be necessary to replace part of the constituent components taken from the 5-speed gearbox, namely:

• Back cover;
• Intermediate shaft (with a hole for fastening the 5th gear block);
• Output shaft (slightly shorter in the 5-speed version);
• 5th speed gear block;
• Axle of the intermediate reverse gear;
• A set of rods with a fork for engaging 5th and reverse gears;
• Gear shifting mechanism (rocker);
• Reversing light switch;
• Power unit mounting bracket;

Further, it is enough to completely disassemble the 4-speed gearbox, and assemble it as a 5-speed gearbox using the specified components.