Repair of the gearbox vaz 2106 4 do-it-yourself mortar

VAZ 2101 gearbox diagram: 1 - reverse gear fork; 2 - pull-back spring of the gear lever; 3 - guide cup of the lever; 4 - ball bearing of the lever; 5 - gear shift lever; 6 - spherical washer; 7 - lever spring; 8 - retaining ring; 9 - damper locking sleeve; 10 - elastic bushings of the damper; 11 - damper distance sleeve; 12 - persistent damper pad; 13 - rod of the gear shift lever; 14 - plug for engaging the third and fourth gears; 15 - plug for switching on the first and second gears; 16 - rod of the plug for engaging the first and second gears; 17 - rod of the plug for engaging the third and fourth gears; 18 - rod of the reverse gear inclusion fork; 19 - blocking crackers; 20 - retainer cover; 21 - bushing; 22 - retainer spring; 23 - retainer ball; 24 - rear cover of the transmission; 25 - VAZ 2101 reversing light switch; 26 - distance sleeve of the reverse fork rod.

The device of the primary shaft VAZ 2101: 1 - retaining ring; 2 - spring washer; 3 - bearing; 4 - primary shaft; 5 - synchronizer spring; 6 - blocking ring of the synchronizer; 7 - retaining ring; 8 - bearing.

The device of the secondary shaft VAZ 2101: 1 - retaining ring; 2 - spring washer; 3 - synchronizer hub; 4 - synchronizer clutch; 5 - retaining ring; 6 - blocking ring of the synchronizer; 7 - synchronizer spring; 8 - washer; 9 - gear wheel of III transfer; 10 - secondary shaft; 11 - gear wheel of II transfer; 12 - washer; 13 - synchronizer spring; 14 - blocking ring; 15 - retaining ring; 16 - synchronizer hub; 17 - synchronizer clutch; 18 - retaining ring; 19 - blocking ring of the synchronizer; 20 - synchronizer spring; 21 - washer; 22 - gear wheel of 1st transfer; 23 - bushing of the gear wheel of the 1st transfer; 24 - bearing; 25 - reverse gears; 26 - spring washer; 27 - retaining ring; 28 - speedometer drive gear; 29 - rear bearing; 30 - stuffing box; 31 - flexible coupling flange; 32 - nut; 33 - sealant; 34 - centering ring; 35 - retaining ring.

Gear lever device VAZ 2101: 1 - pull-back spring bolt; 2 - washer; 3 - pull-back spring; 4 - gasket; 5 - guiding cup; 6 - gasket; 7 - washer; 8 - a limiting bolt; 9 - gear shift lever; 10 - ball bearing; 11 - spherical washer; 12 - spring; 13 - support washer; 14 - retaining ring; 15 - gasket; 16 - flange; 17 - spring washer; 18 - nut; 19 - cuff; 20 - inner cover; 21 - lever rod; 22 - handle; 23 - persistent pillow; 24 - elastic sleeve; 25 - distance sleeve; 26 - elastic bushing; 27 - locking sleeve.

To replace parts of the VAZ 2101 gearbox, it must be partially or completely disassembled, for this follow these instructions: Wash the gearbox and install it on the stand. Drain the oil and remove the gearbox housing with the gasket. Remove the clutch release drive fork, and from the guide sleeve of the front cover of the gearbox - the clutch assembly with bearing and connecting spring. Remove the clutch housing (bell) with the gasket and the front cover of the transmission together with the oil seal and the spring washer. Remove the VAZ 2101 speedometer drive with a gasket and the reversing lamp switch, being careful not to deform its case. Remove the third and fourth gear shift fork securing bolt. Install the retainer 41.7816.4068 on the input shaft or engage two gears at the same time. This will prevent the input, output and countershaft from turning and allow subsequent disassembly operations to be carried out.

Remove the retaining ring from the end of the output shaft of the transmission

After bending the lock washer, back off the nut a few turns to move the elastic coupling centering ring and re-tighten the nut. With a pusher with a puller, remove from the end of the output shaft the centering ring of the elastic coupling of the propeller shaft

Remove the elastic coupling centering ring seal from the end of the output shaft, unscrew the nut and remove the elastic coupling flange with a puller. Remove the rear cover of the gearbox by unscrewing the nuts of its fastening and the screw for limiting the lateral travel of the lever, and also moving the gearshift lever to the left to free it from the gearshift rods. Remove the rear bearing from the output shaft. Remove the speedometer drive pinion. Remove the fork with a distance sleeve from the reverse gear rod, and remove the intermediate reverse gear from the axle

Remove the retaining ring of the reverse drive gear VAZ 2101 from the intermediate shaft; remove the gear and spring washer. Remove the reverse driven gear retaining ring from the output shaft by pressing the spring washer with a mandrel to relieve stress on the retaining ring. Remove the reverse driven gear and spring washer. Using curly mandrels such as screwdrivers and rod punches, remove the front and rear intermediate shaft bearings from the gearbox housing. On the inner rings of the double-row front bearing, make marks along which these rings are installed in their original places in the outer ring of the bearing

Remove the intermediate shaft from the gearbox housing by tilting it as shown in the illustration. Remove the stem retainer cover along with the gasket, remove the retainer springs and balls. Remove the reverse gear rod, the third and fourth gear shift fork from the gearbox housing. Unscrew the bolt securing the forks of the first and second gears, remove the stem and forks. Pulling out the rods, remove the three locking pieces at the same time.

Unscrew the screws securing the intermediate bearing of the secondary shaft with a drill-screwdriver and remove the locking plate of the intermediate bearing of the secondary shaft and the axis of the intermediate reverse gear

Using mandrels, remove the input shaft together with the bearing and the synchronizer ring and remove the needle bearing from the front end of the output shaft

Knock out the secondary shaft from the VAZ 2101 intermediate bearing, remove the intermediate bearing and, tilting, as shown in the figure, remove the secondary shaft complete with gears, couplings and synchronizer rings from the crankcase. Remove the third and fourth gear synchroniser sleeve from the shaft.

For disassembling the input shaft VAZ 2101 proceed as follows: Remove the circlip, the circlip and the synchroniser spring. Install the shaft on the press and, squeezing the spring washer with a mandrel, remove the retaining ring, then the spring washer and bearing.

For disassembling the secondary shaft of the VAZ 2101 gearbox Proceed as follows: Remove the first gear with a sleeve from the rear side of the shaft, the hub with the sliding clutch for switching the first and second gears, the second gear together with the synchronizer blocking ring

Install the secondary shaft with the mandrel on the press, place the support half rings under the third gear gear, and, pressing the mandrel on the spring washer, remove the circlip 2, then the spring washer, the hub of the sliding clutch of the third and fourth gears and the third gear.

For disassembling the gear lever VAZ 2101 and the rear cover, remove the collar, lever cover, then the retaining ring, washer, spring and spherical washer. Unscrew the nuts securing the flange, disconnect the arm pull-back spring from the bolt eyelet and remove the arm together with the flange, support and cup.

Repair and assembly of the VAZ 2101 gearbox is carried out in the reverse order of dismantling, taking into account the replacement of old defective parts with new ones. After installing the gearbox on the VAZ 2101, be sure to fill in the gear oil!

ATTENTION! The gearbox consists of a large number of parts, many of them are similar, therefore, to facilitate assembly, the parts should be laid out on sheets of paper in order and be sure to sign each one.

We drain the oil from the gearbox (see.Checking the level and changing the oil in the gearbox).
Remove the gearbox (see Replacing the gearbox).
Remove the clutch release drive plug and the clutch release bearing (see Replacing the pressure plate assembly and the clutch release bearing).
We thoroughly clean it from dirt, wash the gearbox housing with a brush and hot water and detergent from the outside and put it on the workbench with the clutch housing down.

Use two screwdrivers to separate the sectors of the spacer sleeve and.

... remove it and the rubber bushing of the damper.

Remove the elastic coupling and the flange from the secondary shaft of the gearbox (see Replacing the secondary shaft seal).

Using the "13" head, unscrew the two support fastening nuts.

Using the "10" head, unscrew the nut that secures the speedometer drive.

... and remove the speedometer drive.

Using the "22" key, turn off the reverse light switch.

Using the "13" key, turn off the stop for shifting the gear shift lever.

Using the "13" head, unscrew the two nuts securing the bracket.

Remove the bracket and take out the square head bolt.

Using the "13" head, unscrew the remaining nuts securing the rear cover of the gearbox.

Remove the rear cover by moving the shift lever to the right to free it from the gearshift rods.

Carefully, trying not to damage, remove the back cover gasket.

We remove the drive gear of the speedometer drive and its retainer - a steel ball.

Using the "10" head, unscrew the bolt securing the reverse gear shift fork.

Remove the reverse gear fork and reverse intermediate gear.

Remove the remote sleeve from the reverse gear rod.

Remove the retaining ring from the intermediate shaft with a puller.

Remove the reverse drive gear and spring washer.

With a puller, remove the retaining ring from the secondary shaft.

Remove the reverse driven gear and spring washer.

Using an impact screwdriver, unscrew the four screws securing the bearing lock plate and the axis of the intermediate reverse gear.

Remove the locking plate.

We take out the axis of the intermediate reverse gear.

Using the "10" head, unscrew ten nuts securing the bottom cover.

We put the gearbox on its side.

Using the "13" head, unscrew one nut.

... and the head "17" - six nuts securing the clutch housing to the gearbox.

Disconnect the crankcases and remove the gasket.

Using the "13" head, unscrew the two bolts securing the cover of the rod clamps.

Remove the cover and remove three springs and three balls from the holes.

We take out the rod of the reverse switch.

Using the "10" head, unscrew the bolt securing the plug for engaging 1st and 2nd gears.

We take out the rods, at the same time removing the locking crackers.

We take out the rod of the plug of inclusion of the 1st and 2nd gears.

Using the "10" head, unscrew the bolt securing the plug for engaging the III and IV gears.

We take out the rod of the plug for engaging the III and IV gears.

By clicking on the couplings, we turn on two gears at once and with the key "19" unscrew the bolt securing the front bearing of the intermediate shaft.

Prying the retaining ring with two screwdrivers, take out the front intermediate shaft bearing.

We push out the rear bearing of the intermediate shaft.

Tilting, remove the intermediate shaft from the gearbox housing.

We take out two gear shift forks.

Prying off with a screwdriver, take out the input shaft assembly with the bearing and the synchronizer ring.

Remove the needle bearing from the secondary shaft.

Prying with a screwdriver, remove the key from the back of the secondary shaft.

Prying off with two screwdrivers, remove the rear bearing of the output shaft.

We take out the secondary shaft from the gearbox housing.

We install the secondary shaft vertically by clamping it in a vice through cardboard spacers.

Remove the synchronizer sleeve for III and IV gears.

Remove the retaining ring with a puller.

... and remove the synchronizer hub and spring washer.

Prying off with a screwdriver, remove the retaining ring, as well as the locking ring and the synchronizer spring.

We remove the gear wheel of the III transfer.

Leaning the gear wheel of the 1st gear on a hard base, knock out the secondary shaft with a hammer through a spacer made of soft metal.

... and remove from it the 2nd gear gear assembly, the synchronizer clutch for 1st and 2nd gears, the synchronizer hub, the 1st gear gear assembly and the 1st gear gear sleeve.

The elements of the synchronizers I, II and IV (on the input shaft) of the gears are disassembled in the same way as the synchronizer for the III gear.
To remove the input shaft bearing.

... unclench the retaining ring with a puller.

... and remove it together with the spring washer.

Leaning the bearing on a rigid base, knock out the input shaft with a hammer through a drift from soft metal.

To remove the shift lever from the rear transmission housing cover.

... disconnect the return spring from the lever.

Using the "10" wrench, unscrew the three nuts securing the ball joint of the lever and.

To replace the cuff of the drive (primary) shaft, we knock out the cuff with a punch through the hole in the front cover of the gearbox and.

When there are problems with the gearbox, it must be addressed immediately. If you start this process, you can lose the possibility of repairing the gearbox, and you will need to directly replace it.

DIY VAZ 2106 gearbox repair

Attention. The gearbox consists of a large number of parts, many of them are similar, therefore, to facilitate assembly, the parts should be laid out on sheets of paper in order and be sure to sign each one.

1. Drain the oil from the gearbox.

2. Remove the gearbox.

3. Remove the clutch release drive plug and the clutch release bearing.

4. Thoroughly clean it from dirt, wash the gearbox housing with a brush and hot water and detergent from the outside and place it on the workbench with the clutch housing down.

5. Use two screwdrivers to separate the sectors of the spacer sleeve and ...

6.… remove it and the rubber bushing of the damper.

7. Remove the flexible coupling and flange from the gearbox output shaft.

8. Using the "13" head, unscrew the two support fastening nuts.

10. Using the "10" head, unscrew the nut that secures the speedometer drive ...

11. ... and remove the speedometer drive.

12. Using the "22" key, turn off the reverse light switch ...

14. Using the "13" key, turn off the stop for shifting the gear shift lever.

15. Using the "13" head, unscrew the two nuts securing the bracket.

16. Remove the bracket and take out the square head bolt.

17. Using the "13" head, unscrew the remaining nuts securing the rear cover of the gearbox.

18. Remove the rear cover by moving the shift lever to the right to free it from the gear shift rods.

19. Carefully, trying not to damage, remove the back cover gasket.

20. Remove the rear bearing.

21. Remove the drive gear of the speedometer and its retainer - a steel ball.

22. Remove the reverse gear and reverse intermediate gear.

23. Remove the distance sleeve from the reverse gear rod.

24. With a puller, remove the retaining ring from the intermediate shaft.

25. Remove the reverse drive gear and spring washer.

26. With a puller, remove the retaining ring from the secondary shaft.

27. Remove the driven reverse gear and spring washer.

28. Using an impact screwdriver, unscrew the four screws securing the bearing lock plate and the axis of the intermediate reverse gear.

29. Remove the locking plate.

30. Take out the axis of the intermediate reverse gear.

31. Using the “10” head, unscrew ten nuts securing the bottom cover.

32. Remove the cover. We put the gearbox on its side.

33. Using the "13" head, unscrew one nut, ...

34. ... and the head "17" - six nuts securing the clutch housing to the gearbox.

35. Disconnect the crankcases and remove the gasket.

36. Using the "13" head, unscrew the two bolts securing the cover of the rod retainers.

37. Remove the cover and remove three springs and three balls from the holes.

38. Take out the rod of the reverse engagement fork.

39.Using the "10" head, unscrew the bolt securing the plug for engaging 1st and 2nd gears.

40. We take out the rods, at the same time removing the blocking crackers.

41. We take out the rod of the plug of inclusion of the 1st and 2nd gears.

42. Using the “10” head, unscrew the bolt securing the plug for engaging the III and IV gears.

43. We take out the rod of the plug of inclusion of III and IV gears.

44. By clicking on the couplings, we turn on two gears at once and with the key "19" unscrew the bolt securing the front bearing of the intermediate shaft.

45. Prying the retaining ring with two screwdrivers, take out the front bearing of the intermediate shaft.

46. ​​We push out the rear bearing of the intermediate shaft.

47. Having tilted, take out the intermediate shaft from the gearbox housing.

48. We take out two gear shift forks.

49. Prying with a screwdriver, take out the input shaft assembly with the bearing and the synchronizer ring.

50. Remove the needle bearing from the secondary shaft.

51. Prying with a screwdriver, remove the key from the back of the secondary shaft.

52. Prying off with two screwdrivers, remove the secondary shaft rear bearing.

53. We take out the secondary shaft from the gearbox housing.

54. Vertically install the secondary shaft, clamping it in a vice through cardboard spacers. Remove the synchronizer sleeve for III and IV gears.

55. Remove the retaining ring with a puller ...

56. ... and remove the synchronizer hub and spring washer.

57. Prying off with a screwdriver, remove the retaining ring, as well as the locking ring and the synchronizer spring.

58. We remove the gear wheel of the III transfer.

59. Leaning the gear wheel of the 1st gear on a hard base, knock out the secondary shaft with a hammer through a spacer made of soft metal ...

60. ... and remove from it the II gear assembly, the synchronizer coupling for the 1st and 2nd gears, the synchronizer hub, the 1st gear assembly and the 1st gear sleeve.

61. Elements of synchronizers I, II and IV (on the input shaft) gears are disassembled similarly to the synchronizer of III gear.

62. To remove the input shaft bearing with a puller, unclench the retaining ring ...

63. ... and remove it together with the spring washer.

64. Leaning the bearing on a rigid base, knock out the input shaft with a hammer through a drift from soft metal.

65. To remove the gear shift lever from the rear cover of the gearbox housing, disconnect the return spring from the lever.

66. Using the "10" wrench, unscrew the three nuts securing the ball joint of the lever and ...

67.… remove the lever from the studs.

68. To replace the cuff of the drive (primary) shaft, we knock out the cuff with a punch through the hole in the front cover of the gearbox and ...

We thoroughly wash all parts in kerosene or diesel fuel and inspect them. The teeth of gears and couplings should be free of chips, scoring, fatigue chipping and noticeable wear. The surfaces of shafts, axles and shift rods must be completely smooth, free from scoring, pits and severe wear. There should be no cracks or nicks on the crankcase, and there should be no wear or traces of turning in the bearing bores. Corrosion and traces of crushing and galling are unacceptable on the shaft splines. Minor damage can be repaired with fine sandpaper followed by polishing, but it is better to replace damaged parts with new ones.

All rolling bearings, both ball and roller, must be in perfect condition, their radial play must not exceed 0.05 mm, any defects on the tracks and rolling elements are unacceptable. Separators should not have breaks, touching rings and melting (for plastic ones). In general, if the "mileage" of the box exceeds 120 thousand km and the unit is being repaired with disassembly, it is better to replace all bearings with new ones, regardless of their condition, especially if severe damage to gears and gear clutches was noticed. We replace the cuffs with new ones in any case. When assembling, we lubricate all the parts of the box, incl. the bearing seats and the bearings themselves with transmission oil, the joints of the crankcase and covers are covered with a thin layer of oil-resistant sealant, and the parts of the switching mechanism are coated with SHRUS-4 grease.

We assemble the gearbox in the reverse order of disassembly. The spring of the reversing fork rod retainer is different from others in stiffness and has a black coating. Before installation, the working surface of the cuffs is coated with a thin layer of Litol-24 grease. We tighten the bolt of the intermediate shaft bearing clamping washer with a torque of 8.1–10.0 kgf.m. We tighten the nut of the rear end of the secondary shaft with a torque of 6.8–8.4 kgf.m.

On the VAZ 2106, four and five-speed gearboxes are installed (hereinafter referred to as gearbox). The five-speed box is made on the basis of a four-speed box, both units are interchangeable, the main parts are the same.
Our manual will clearly show you how a five-speed VAZ 2106 gearbox is repaired - we begin the repair with a fault diagnosis.

Malfunctions in which box repair is necessary.

• Worn bearings;
• Worn gear teeth or synchronizer teeth;
• The shafts in the housing loosened; during operation, their axial displacement occurs.

• The spherical hinge of the lever is worn out, there is no lubricant in the switching unit;
• The shift lever is deformed;
• (rods) burrs, deflections have arisen, rod seats are dirty, blocking crackers are jammed;
• The splines of the coupling or the splines of the hub are clogged;
  damaged shift forks.

• The holes for the balls or the balls themselves on the rods were worn out, the springs of the retainers broke;
• The blocking ring on the synchronizer is worn out;
• The synchronizer springs have broken;
• Worn teeth of synchronizer couplings or ring gear.

• The shaft seals of the box are worn out;
• The fastening of the gearbox covers to the body is loose, the sealing gaskets are damaged;
• The fastening of the clutch housing to the box body is loose.

Warning: The listed malfunctions are caused by other reasons, for the elimination of which it is not necessary to remove and disassemble the gearbox. Since the removal and disassembly of the gearbox are very laborious processes, be careful when diagnosing faults, be sure to make sure that such a repair is necessary.

• Two screwdrivers;
• Heads 17, 13;
• Extension with a knob (ratchet);
• A set of keys 10-27 plus a second key for 13;
• Impact screwdriver;
• Special puller for removing retaining (fixing) rings;
• Medium hammer;
• Universal pullers.

• We unscrew the bolts securing the front pipe and remove it;
• Unscrew the starter mounting nuts;
• We substitute the container (bucket) under the box, open the drain plug with a hexagon, drain the oil from the gearbox;

Note: It is not recommended to remove the gearbox without draining the oil. It is very likely to spill when you remove the box.
Then the price of the issue will increase by the cost of a new oil and a new robe for you, besides, it is easy to slip on spilled oil.

• detach the muffler mounts, take out the front exhaust pipe;
• We unscrew the propeller shaft bracket, the box flange coupling;

Unscrew the safety bracket, flange coupling

• Disconnect the reverse sensor wires, unscrew the speedometer cable;
• Remove the clutch slave cylinder;
• We install an emphasis under the cross member, unscrew the bolts securing the clutch housing cover, remove the spring washers;
• We unscrew the nuts securing the cross member, remove the stop, smoothly lower the gearbox to the bottom, in order to do this you need the help of a partner who will hold the box, then we rearrange the stop in front of the engine to fix it;
• We remove the nuts securing the clutch housing to the engine, remove the washers, then carefully together remove the gearbox from the engine.

We set the stop under the cross member, unscrew the nuts, remove the stop, unscrew the nuts securing the crankcase to the engine

We install in the reverse order. Now you know how the gearbox is removed from the VAZ 2106, repair is the next step.
To disassemble the checkpoint with your own hands is also not tricky.

• We remove from the guide the clutch release clutch with the bearing and the spring.
• We remove, prying with a screwdriver, the clutch fork cover from the crankcase, and then remove the fork together with the cover by turning it ninety degrees.
• We unscrew the nuts (there are seven of them) securing the clutch housing, remove the spring washers.

Nuts securing the clutch housing

Disconnect the clutch housing from the gearbox

• We take out the gasket between them and the spring washer.
• We unscrew the nuts securing the bottom cover to the body (there are ten of them), take out the washers.
• Remove the cover.

• Carefully separate the gasket from the gearbox housing, remove it from the studs.
• We unscrew the nuts securing the rear suspension pillow to the crankcase (there are two of them), remove the washers and the pillow together with the cross member.

Unscrew and take out the speedometer drive

• We turn over the gearbox, unscrew the reverse sensor.
• We unscrew the bolt securing the shift fork of the third - fourth gear.

We unscrew the bolt securing the plug

Note: Synchronous engagement of two gears at once is necessary to prevent the shafts from scrolling during further steps to disassemble the gearbox.

• We take out the retaining ring from the edge of the secondary shaft.
• We unbend the lock plate that fixes the nut that secures the flange of the elastic coupling.

Unbend the locking plate

• We unscrew the nut a couple of turns to move the centering ring of the coupling, then we wrap the nut.
• Press the coupling centering ring with a puller.
• We take out the seal of the centering ring.
• We unscrew the nut that secures the flange of the elastic coupling.
• Using a puller, we move the coupling flange, remove it.

We use a puller to remove the flange

• We set the shift lever to the “neutral” position, remove the collar from the flange to facilitate access to the nuts securing the lever.
• We unscrew the nuts securing the flange to the gearbox housing (there are three of them), remove the washers, the drive, the shifting gear, the gasket from the flange.

Turn off the gear shift drive

• We unscrew the nuts securing the intake pipe bracket (there are two of them), remove the washers with the bracket.
• We take out the mortgage bolt.
• We unscrew the nuts from the outside that secure the rear cover of the gearbox (there are five of them), remove the washers.

Attention: The rear cover of the gearbox is secured with five nuts on the outside and one on the inside (the nut is located under the bracket for the muffler pipe). The top right nut cannot be completely unscrewed at the initial position of the cover.

Outer nuts securing the back cover

• We unscrew the nut securing the back cover, which is located on the inside of the case, and remove the washer.

• Disconnect the back cover from the case, for this we move the cover as far as possible, then unscrew the upper right nut to the end, remove the washer.
• We take the lid back and, turning it clockwise, remove it from the box body.

Remove the back cover of the box

Note: It is necessary to rotate the gearbox cover so that it does not get caught on the gear block for reverse gear and 5th gear.

Tip: To facilitate the removal of the rear cover of the gearbox, we move the rear cover, and we get access to the rods that shift the gears, and turn on the 2nd gear.

• We take out the inner race of the secondary shaft roller bearing and then the speedometer gear.
• We unscrew the bolts securing the retainer cover, take out the cover with fasteners and a gasket.

• We take out the springs of the clips.
  We turn over the gearbox, take out the balls of the retainers.
• We remove the ball-retainer of the speedometer gear and the oil deflector washer.

We take out the ball, take out the oil deflector washer

Unscrew the bolt securing the gear block

• We pull the reverse and 5th gear shift rod towards ourselves, take it out of the crankcase, freeing it from the shutdown fork.
• We take out the reverse gears and 5th gear, then the fork to switch them.
• Then, from the secondary shaft, we pull off the 5th gear sleeve, the gear, the locking ring, the toothed ring, the 5th gear synchronizer sleeve, followed by the synchronizer sleeve mounting hub.

We take out the synchronizer sleeve

We pull off the main reverse gear from the shaft

• We press out the rear roller bearing of the intermediate shaft, lightly tapping on the outer ring.
• Then remove the sleeve from the shaft, the outer ring of the roller bearing and the inner ring of the roller bearing.
• We unscrew the bolt securing the front roller bearing of the intermediate shaft, simultaneously engage two gears (I-IV).
• Now we remove the front bearing.
• It is enough to pick up the retaining ring with a screwdriver, then the roller bearing will come out.
• Sometimes it gets stuck, then we twist the bolt a few turns into the shaft, create a stop with a screwdriver, tap it lightly with a hammer on the bolt head to rip the roller bearing from its place... Sometimes the roller bearing is disassembled, do not be alarmed, it can be easily assembled.

We knock with a hammer, while creating an emphasis with a screwdriver

Tip: Be sure to mark the inner rings of the intermediate shaft roller bearing; it is important to put them in their original places when assembling the gearbox.

• Now that the bearings have been removed, remove the shaft from the crankcase.

We take out the intermediate shaft

• We turn the gearbox over, take out the blocking cracker of the shift rod of III-IV gears (Photo Crackers-2).
• We extend the shift rod of III-IV gears to remove (using a screwdriver) the intermediate blocking cracker.

We take out the intermediate biscuit

Note: This is how blocking crackers look like: 1 - shift rod of I-II gears (it is longer); 2 - shift rod of III - IV gears (shorter).

• We remove the shift rod of III - IV gears, we take out the shift fork III - IV
  gear.

Unscrew the bolt securing the shift fork

• We take out the I-II gear shift rod from the housing.
• Turn the gearbox over and take out the blocking cracker of the shift rod I - II
  programs (Photo Crackers-1).
• Remove the shift fork for 1st - 2nd gears.
• Then the entire input shaft and take out the needle bearing.

• Using an impact screwdriver, we loosen the tightening of the screws securing the locking plate of the intermediate ball bearing of the secondary shaft, as well as the reverse gear axle, then unscrew the screws.

We loosen the tightening of the screws with an impact screwdriver

• We unfold the locking plate to pull it out of the groove on the axle on which the intermediate reverse gear sits.
• Remove the axle on which the intermediate reverse gear is attached.
• Unclench the circlip securing the secondary shaft intermediate ball bearing with a circlip puller and remove it.
• We take out the key from the secondary shaft.
• Remove the intermediate bearing using a screwdriver as a lever.
• We give the shaft (secondary) back and take it up with the front end.
• We press out the rear bearing of the same shaft from the gearbox cover, lightly hitting the outer bearing race with a hammer.

We press out the rear bearing from the cover

Warning: Do not lose the spacer ring fitted between the roller bearing and the oil seal.

• We remove the secondary shaft roller bearing oil seal from the gearbox cover.
• We install the entire block of reverse gears and 5th gear in a vice, press the ball bearing using a large screwdriver, applying force to the inner ring.

Press the bearing with a screwdriver

• Now that the box has been taken apart We thoroughly wash all the parts in kerosene or diesel fuel, then carefully inspect them.
• The teeth of gears and couplings do not contain chips, cracks, burrs and scoring, surface chipping and visible wear.
• All surfaces of shafts, rods and shift shafts are smooth, without pits, scoring, obvious wear.
• Look on the housing for cracks, nicks (they should not be), and in the bearing seats - traces of cranking and wear.
• The presence of corrosion, traces of jamming and crushing on the shaft splines is unacceptable.
• We eliminate minor damage with fine sandpaper, then polish, but ideally replace all damaged parts with new ones.
• Roller and ball bearings are installed back only in perfect condition, small defects are unacceptable on tracks, balls and rollers, radial play is allowed no higher than 0.05 millimeters.
• Separators do not contain breaks, contact rings or melted fragments (for plastic).
• For a box with a mileage exceeding 120 thousand kilometers, repair with disassembly is carried out,
• Bearings are completely replaced with new ones, regardless of their condition, especially in case of severe damage to gears or shift clutches.
• New cuffs are also installed.
• When assembling, we lubricate the parts, including the bearing seats, the bearings themselves with the help of transmission oil, the joints of the housing and covers are smeared with a thin layer of automotive sealant, all parts of the switching mechanism are SHRUS-4.
• The stem spring on the reverse fork is stiffer and blacker in appearance.
• Before installation, the working surface of all cuffs is smeared with a thin layer of Litol-24 grease.

After all defects have been identified, we replace the parts with new ones. We assemble in the reverse order.
For the VAZ 2106, the gearbox repair has been completed. Additionally, we recommend that you watch the video.

To complete the work, you will need fixing glue, an impact screwdriver, oil seals for the primary and secondary shafts, a set of gaskets, and a torque wrench.

1. Drain the oil from the gearbox (see “Gearbox - Checking the Oil Level and Changing the Oil”).

2. Remove the gearbox (see "Gearbox - removal and installation").

3. We clean with a brush and rinse the outer surface of the box with kerosene or white spirit.

4. Remove the release bearing clutch and the clutch release fork from the gearbox (see "Clutch parts - removal and installation").

5. Disconnect the flexible coupling of the propeller shaft from the flange on the output shaft of the box (see "Propeller drive - disassembly and assembly").

6. Remove the flange of the flexible coupling from the output shaft of the gearbox (see "Output shaft oil seal - replacement").

7. Disconnect the support of the power unit with a cross member from the rear cover of the gearbox (see “Power unit mounts - replacement”).

8. Remove the speedometer drive (see “Speedometer drive - replacement”).

9. Remove the reversing light switch (see “Reversing light switch - check and replacement”).

10. Remove the cuff from the ball joint of the gear lever.

11. Key by 10 mm unscrew the three nuts securing the gear lever housing to the rear crankcase cover.

12. Remove the lever housing and the sealing gasket from the studs A under him.

13. Socket wrench by 13 mm we unscrew the two nuts securing the bracket for the exhaust pipe of the exhaust system.

14. Remove the bracket and take out the square head bolt underneath.

15. Socket and box wrenches by 13 mm unscrew the five nuts securing the back cover.

16. Socket wrench by 10 mm unscrew ten nuts securing the bottom cover.

17. Remove the cover and the gasket underneath.

18. Some nuts will come loose with the studs. In this case, after washing the threaded holes and studs with a solvent, apply fixing glue according to the instructions and install the studs in place.

19. Key by 13 mm unscrew the remaining rear cover retaining nut located inside the crankcase.

20. To facilitate the removal of the rear cover, use a screwdriver to recess the 1st and 2nd gear engagement rod. This engages second gear.

21. Tapping the cover with a hammer with a rubber or wooden striker along the perimeter of the mounting plane, disconnect it from the box crankcase.

22. Remove the rear cover from the studs, and then, turning it clockwise, remove it from the crankcase. A gasket between the cover and the crankcase could break. When assembling, we install a new gasket.

23. We remove from the back cover the plastic plug of the block of gears of the 5th and reverse gears, squeezing it out with a suitable tool through the hole in the bearing.

24. Using pliers, remove the thrust ring of the bearing of the V-th gear block and reverse gear from the groove in the cover.

25.In order not to damage the back cover, we install it on two wooden blocks and with a hammer (through a mandrel suitable in diameter) we press out the bearing of the gear block of the V-th gear and reverse gear. The inner ring of the bearing usually remains on the block shaft.

27. Remove the secondary shaft oil seal from the hole in the rear cover (see "Output shaft oil seal - replacement").

28. Take out the thrust washer of the inner ring of the rear bearing of the secondary shaft.

29. Press out the rear bearing of the output shaft with a mandrel suitable for the diameter and take it out.

30. Remove the inner ring of the rear bearing from the secondary shaft.

We assemble the bearing by tying its parts with wire or twine.

31. Remove the speedometer drive gear and the ball - retainer A gears located in the groove of the shaft.

32. Remove the slinger washer.

33. The key by 10 mm unscrew the bolt securing the V-th gear and reverse gear.

34. To block the rotation of the shafts, we shift the intermediate gear A reverse, including reverse gear. The second gear was engaged earlier when removing the rear cover. If it turns off, press the stock B... Socket wrench by 17 mm we loosen the tightening of the bolt securing the block of gears of the 5th gear and reverse gear, without completely unscrewing the bolt.

35. Socket wrench by 13 mm unscrew one nut securing the clutch housing to the gearbox and a socket wrench by 17 mm unscrew the remaining six nuts.

36. Having wrung out with a screwdriver, disconnect the clutch housing from the box and remove the gasket.

37. To replace the input shaft oil seal, press it out with a punch through the hole in the flange of the front cover of the gearbox.

38. Using the pliers, remove the oil seal from the front cover of the gearbox.

39. Remove the spring ring from the input shaft of the gearbox. The ring has a tapered shape and is installed with a smaller diameter towards the bearing.

40. Socket wrench by 19 mm we unscrew the bolt securing the front bearing of the intermediate shaft and take out the bolt together with the spring and clamping washers.

41. Socket wrench by 17 mm finally unscrew and remove the bolt securing the gear block.

42. Moving the V-th gear shift fork along the rod, remove the gear block from the intermediate shaft.

43. Install the gear block in a vice and press the inner ring of the intermediate shaft rear bearing with two large screwdrivers.

We assemble the bearing and tie its parts with wire or twine.

44. Remove the spacer washer from the secondary shaft.

45. Socket wrench by 13 mm we unscrew the two bolts securing the cover of the rod retainers.

46. ​​Remove the cover with the gasket.

47. From the holes in the crankcase, remove the springs of the rod retainers. Spring A the locking rod for engaging the V-th gear and reverse gear differs from others in rigidity. To distinguish it, it has a dark color and during assembly it must be installed in its place.

48. It is more convenient to remove the retaining balls with a rubber bulb, creating a vacuum.

49. Remove the V-th gear gear assembly with a synchronizer from the secondary shaft.

50. Remove the spacer ring.

51. Having moved the gear selection fork, remove the V-gear synchronizer sleeve.

52. Holding the fork, remove the intermediate reverse gear from the axle.

53. Remove the rod of inclusion of the V-th gear and reverse gear together with the shift fork and the remote bushing A stock. Remove the bushing and plug from the stem.

54. Socket wrench by 10 mm unscrew the bolt securing the stem head and remove it.

55. Using a magnetic screwdriver or using a rubber bulb, remove from the hole A in the crankcase wall a blocking cracker.

56. Using pliers, unclench the V-gear synchronizer hub retaining ring and remove it.

57. Remove the hub from the shaft.

58. Remove the spring washer.

59. Remove the reverse gear.

60. Having pushed out from the inside, we take out the rear bearing of the intermediate shaft.

61.Using two screwdrivers on the locating ring, we take out the front bearing of the intermediate shaft.

62. We take out the intermediate shaft from the crankcase.

63. Prying with two screwdrivers, remove a part of the inner ring of the rear bearing from the intermediate shaft and assemble the bearing.

64. Socket wrench by 10 mm with an extension cord, unscrew the bolt securing the 3rd and 4th gear shift fork to the rod.

65. We take out the engagement rod of the III and IV gears from the hole, at the same time removing the plug from it.

66. From the hole in the rod, remove the blocking cracker.

67. With a powerful magnet or with the help of a rubber bulb, we extract the blocking cracker from the hole in the crankcase.

68. Socket wrench by 10 mm unscrew the bolt fastening the forks of the 1st and 2nd gears.

69. We take out the stem from the hole, at the same time removing the plug from it.

70. Using an impact screwdriver, unscrew the three screws securing the retaining plate of the intermediate bearing of the secondary shaft and remove it.

71. Prying with two large screwdrivers for the bearing mounting ring, we push the bearing out of the crankcase.

72. Remove the input shaft assembly.

73. Take out the front roller bearing from the shaft bore. The bearing can also remain at the end of the output shaft.

74. Prying with two screwdrivers on the locating ring of the intermediate bearing of the secondary shaft, we pull the bearing off the shaft.

75. We take out the secondary shaft from the crankcase.

76. Holding with a key by 24 mm axle of the intermediate gear wheel of reverse gear from turning, with a socket wrench by 19 mm unscrew the axle nut.

77. Clamping the secondary shaft vertically in a vice through soft pads, remove the synchronization clutch of the III and IV gears from the shaft.

78. Using pliers, unclench and remove the hub retaining ring from the shaft.

79. Remove the spring washer.

80. Remove the synchronization clutch hub.

81. We remove the gear wheel with the synchronizer of the III-rd transfer.

82. We support the edges of the 1st gear gear on a rigid base (for example, two keys), up to 5 mm thick. We press out the secondary shaft from the gear sleeve through a drift from soft metal.

84. Remove the gear with the 1st gear synchronizer.

85. We take out the hub of the synchronization clutch of the 1st and 2nd gears.

86. Remove the synchronization clutch.

87. Remove the gear with a synchronizer of the 2nd gear from the shaft.

88. Having fastened the input shaft in a vice through soft lining, we push apart and remove the bearing retaining ring with pliers.

89. Remove the spring washer.

90. Leaning the edges of the bearing on a rigid base, press out the input shaft from the inner ring of the bearing through a drift made of soft metal.

91. Holding the blocking ring of the synchronization clutch of the 4th gear by hand, use the pliers to push apart and remove the retaining ring.

92. Gradually releasing the locking ring, remove it and the synchronizer spring of the 4th gear.

93. Similarly, we analyze the mechanisms of synchronization of other transmissions.

The tightening torques of critical threaded connections of parts are given in the appendices (see “Tightening torques for threaded connections”).

Before assembly, we rinse all parts with white spirit or kerosene and blow with compressed air. We wash and blow through the bearings with compressed air. We inspect and replace worn parts. The parts should be free of damage and traces of excessive wear, and on the mating surfaces of the parts there should be no scuff marks.

The crankcase walls must be free of cracks, and the bearing seats must be free of signs of wear or damage. The contact surfaces of the connectors of the gearbox housing, clutch housing and rear cover must not be damaged, causing divergence of the shaft axes and insufficient tightness.

Damage or excessive wear of sliding surfaces and splines is not allowed on the shafts. Minor surface irregularities may be removed with fine-grained emery paper; if there are large damages or deformations, the shaft must be replaced with a new one.

The bearings should show no signs of destruction of the tracks, cages, balls or rollers; when the bearing rings are turned, the rolling should be smooth.When repairing gearboxes with significant mileage (100 thousand km or more), it is advisable to replace all bearings with new ones, regardless of their current condition.

Excessive wear and chipping of gear teeth and synchronizers are not allowed, the working surface of the teeth must be smooth.

Also, deformation of the forks for engaging gears is not allowed, the rods of the forks must slide freely without a significant gap in the holes in the crankcase.

There should be no traces of binding on the hubs of the gear clutches.

The friction surfaces of the locking rings must be notched. In case of wear of the notch, replace the locking ring with a new one.

1. All gaskets and seals are replaced with new ones.

2. Before installation, the working surfaces of the oil seals are lubricated with a thin layer of grease.

3. When assembling the gearbox, lubricate all parts with gear oil.

4. When assembling the gear blocks on the shafts, installing the retaining rings, we seat them with a screwdriver until the rings are completely fixed.

5. When installing bearings on shafts, we apply force to the inner rings, and when installing in the holes of the crankcases, to the outer ones.

6. Press the input shaft oil seal into the front cover with a mandrel of a suitable diameter.

7. Further assembly of the transmission is carried out in reverse order. Before installing the box on the car, we check the clarity of the inclusion of all gears.