The VAZ 2107 gearbox is a rather complex device, so its repair is usually entrusted to professional car mechanics. However, this is a feasible task for those who already have experience in repairing complex units. Therefore, knowledge about the device and methods of repairing the VAZ 2107 gearbox will not be superfluous for the owners of the "seven".
The gearbox is designed to transfer torque from the engine to the transmission. Depending on the position of the lever, it changes the crankshaft torque in magnitude and direction of rotation. The "five-speed" box VAZ 2107, formally speaking, has six speeds - 5 forward and reverse.
In the event of a gearbox malfunction, it must be dismantled and disassembled for repair.
To dismantle the VAZ 2107 manual transmission, you must perform the following steps:
After that, you can start checking and repairing the VAZ 2107 gearbox (“5-mortar”).
After repair, the box is installed in the reverse order.
Before starting work, the outer surface of the gearbox should be thoroughly cleaned and washed with kerosene.
Important: before repairing the VAZ 2107 gearbox, it is necessary to drain the transmission oil from it. It is easier to do this before removing from the car.
[tip] Important: the repair of the VAZ 2107 gearbox implies the obligatory replacement of all gaskets with new ones. Therefore, before starting work, you should stock up on a set of gaskets. [/ Tip]
VIDEO
Message IVR »Apr 21, 2010 11:08 am
Message andrew_ap »06 May 2010, 19:33
heavy and unsightly. the life of the fifth gear there, behind the partition, but without checking the oil level, which is not enough there
the only happiness is that almost everything related to the fifth gear can be repaired without even removing the gearbox
Message IVR »06 May 2010, 19:58
andrew_ap wrote: heavy and ugly. the life of the fifth gear there, behind the partition, but without checking the oil level, which is not enough there
the only happiness is that almost everything related to the fifth gear can be repaired without even removing the gearbox
In order to access the fifth gear in classic
The blocking ring of the synchronizer should not have a circular groove at the end where the teeth are (the presence of this fact indicates that the clutch with its teeth reaches the blocking ring of the synchronizer, which means that the pair does not work in cones). Yellow dusting should be present on the forks.
In the photo, the secondary shaft with the clutch hub and the third-fourth gear clutch installed on it, insert the third gear gear (all parts must be lubricated with gear oil during installation).
First and second gear clutch.
Output shaft bearing
There should be no pits in the seating area of the needle bearing.
Bearing rollers - must have a mirror appearance, if dark matt - replace!
There must be washers.
We insert the wings of the first and second gear.
We insert a long keg.
In a horizontal position, we insert the slider into the slide of the third and fourth gear, insert the slide into the fork, and only then unfold until the holes on the fork coincide, and then fix it.
Insert a small keg.
We fix the intermediate shaft.
Insert the front bearing. After fixing.
Install the clutch housing.
We collect the rear part of the gearbox. Slide the reverse driven gear and washer onto the shaft.
We put on the hub of the fifth gear clutch and the retaining ring.
We insert a fork with a rocker, a fifth clutch and an intermediate gear of the reverse gear.
Thrust washer (also called sleeve bearing).
Reverse and fifth gear block - secure.
Put on an oil deflector washer, a bushing and a bearing (by the way, on classic models, instead of a bushing, a speedometer drive gear is installed).
Then put the bearing on the gear block.
Install the balls and springs (the fifth gear spring is black and is the longest), then screw the cover.
Install the gearbox on the clutch housing, then install the rear cover.
We fasten the cover, fix the gearbox shank flange.
And also an elastic coupling with a countershaft.
We fasten the gearbox housing and tighten the plug.
Put the gear lever, then shift all gears.
We put the fork and the pressure bearing.
The gearbox is ready! Can be installed.
In this photo report, a detailed description of the assembly is presented to your attention. mechanical 5-speed gearbox a new VAZ car (Niva).
A description of the troubleshooting will not be carried out, since after a detailed inspection of the gears and bearings, everything will be clear anyway. The focus will be on the synchronizer blocking ring (popularly synchro), as well as the gear shift forks.
It is unlikely that anyone will have a special stand at hand for repairing the checkpoint, in principle, you can sort it out on the table, and you can also gently clamp it in a vice.
Although the oil is drained, there is still a little oil left in the gearbox, so we take this fact into account when disassembling it.
We remove the rubber boot of the coupling from the secondary shaft, the stopper from the secondary shaft, use a suitable punch to knock out the centering sleeve of the coupling. If it is not possible to “pick up” the sleeve, then unscrew the nut of the secondary shaft as far as possible and wrap it back.
If there is no retainer for the input shaft at hand, then you can use an aluminum spoon by inserting its handle between the gears of the input and intermediate shafts. Do not be afraid for the gears, the lumin will not harm them.
We turn off the switch for the reversing lights. Do not lose the copper sealing washer.
We unscrew the nut and take out the speedometer drive
We turn on the second gear and remove the gear lever housing by unscrewing three nuts along the outer radius.
We unscrew the two nuts securing the bracket of the pants to the gearbox
Remove the bracket and remove the square head bolt underneath.
We unscrew the five nuts securing the rear cover on the outside and one on the inside.
Remove the back cover, sometimes you have to hit it with a hammer slightly, the bearings may come loose.
Remove the inner bearing ring from the secondary shaft (hereinafter referred to as P.), then remove the speedometer drive gear.
We remove the slinger washer and examine it, there was a case when the washer came off the bushing.
Using a screwdriver, set the 1-2 gear shift rod to neutral.
Now you need to remove the clutch cover (aka bell). Unscrew one nut at “13” and six nuts at “17”.
Remove, set aside. A spring cone washer remains on the input shaft, or in the bell.
Holding the input shaft with a retainer, unscrew the front intermediate shaft bolt (hereinafter referred to as the washer shaft) with the head on “19”.
We unscrew the two bolts of the plate holding the springs of the clamps of the gear shift rods.
There are three springs under the plate, two of the same length (for rods of 1-2 and 3-4 gears) and one longer (for the 5th gear and reverse gear).
There are three balls under the springs, they are in oil, they do not fall out by themselves, but still keep an eye on them
Now we unscrew the bolt of the gear block and take it out. Now take out the block of gears. Move back and sideways.
A spacer ring is installed between the gear block and the rear shaft of the shaft; it sometimes sticks to the gear block.
We remove the 5th gear gear assembly from the secondary shaft with the 5th gear shift rod, with the gear Z.H., the clutch.
Remove the spacer ring.
Using a suitable thin object, push the ball of the retainer out of the socket. I use a tube from VD 40, it is flexible.
Now with pliers we open the locking ring of the V-gear synchronizer coupling hub and remove it.
Remove the hub from the secondary shaft of the gearbox.
Remove the spring washer. It is facing the gear Z.Kh.
Remove the reverse gear
Now you need to remove the washer shaft. To do this, you need to remove the front bearing.
Sometimes he does not want to slide, then he has to screw the bolt several turns into the hole and, creating an emphasis with a screwdriver, slightly
Now we remove the rear P. of the scrubber by pushing it out of the housing with a screwdriver.
We unscrew the bolt securing the 3-4 gears fork to the 3-4 gear shift rod with the head on “10”.
We take out the stem and at the same time pull out the plug.
AHTUNG! There is a small lock block in the selector rod which may fall out when the rod is pulled out.
Then we remove the blocking cracker from the gearbox housing.
We take out the ball of the retainer.
We unscrew the bolt securing the 1-2 gear fork to the 1-2 gear shift rod with the head on “10”.
We take out the stem and at the same time pull out the plug.
Then we remove the blocking cracker from the gearbox housing.
We take out the ball of the retainer.
Remove the needle bearing and examine the friction surfaces of the needle bearing inside the input shaft and on the output shaft.
We wash the bearing and carefully inspect it, the treadmill and balls should not have traces of chipping, pitting
If it becomes necessary to replace the bearing, then:
Using a puller, we remove the retaining ring, if it does not slide out of its place, then we knock it down with a punch,
We press out the bearing and press on a new one.
Using an impact screwdriver and a hammer, pull off and unscrew the three screws of the locking plate.
The screws can be reused in the absence of damage, but we always install new castellated washers during assembly.
We remove the bearing from the gearbox housing assembly with a lock washer.
Holding the gears on the shaft, pull out the secondary shaft assembly from the gearbox housing.
This is what the removed output shaft assembly looks like.
Remove the 3-4 gears clutch from the shaft, inspect the clutch; there should be no dents on the teeth.
If you need to get access to the 3rd gear gear and the locking ring, then we disassemble the shaft in the following order:
It will not work to unclench the stopper, we knock it out of place with a punch, the ring will pop out by itself.
Remove the 3rd gear assembly.
We put in place the gear, hub, spring ring.
Using a circlip remover, we put the circlip as close as possible to its place on the shaft.
Using a punch with a blow from above and around the perimeter of the ring, we plant the retaining ring in place.
We inspect the gears, the teeth should not have nicks, the edges should be sharp
We inspect the gears; chipped teeth are not allowed.
To replace the locking ring, press the ring against the gear (compressing the spring)
Remove the stopper and locking ring
We put a new ring, put it back, check the ease of movement, it should not jam.
We inspect the clutch-nicks on the teeth, there should be no signs of wear in the groove under the fork
We inspect the shift forks; wear on the working surface of the fork is not allowed.
We change the input shaft oil seal.
We thoroughly clean, degrease, lubricate with a thin layer of sealant,
Examining the clutch fork support "soldier" for wear.
Put some lithol on the washer seat and put it in place. With lithol, the washer is “glued” and will not fall out during assembly.
Let's now deal with the back cover.
We knock out the oil seal with a screwdriver.
Using a screwdriver and a hammer, knock the bearings out of the back cover housing. sit without tension, so they knock out easily.
We wash the body, degrease the gland seats and plugs.
When designing the Vaz-2105, the designers slightly reworked the gearbox, changing the gear ratios of each gear in it. But in general, the design of the gearbox of this car did not differ much from the previous modifications.
The first gearboxes were four-speed, three-shaft, constant-mesh gearboxes with synchronizers in all forward gears. Later, this box was modified by adding an additional 5th speed. Moreover, a 4-speed modification was taken as a basis for the creation, therefore, the 4th speed remained in the five-stage direct transmission.
Subsequently, the gearbox developed for the VAZ-2105 became the main gearbox and it was equipped with all cars of the classic family until the end of their production. In the future, we will consider the maintenance of a 5-speed gearbox, since the repair of a 4-speed VAZ-2105 gearbox is done basically in the same way as for a five-step gearbox, due to the fact that the design of these gearbox versions is largely similar, then maintenance and repair operations - are identical. We will also find out how the conversion of a 4-stage modification into a five-stage is performed.
The main advantage of such a checkpoint was the high reliability of the unit and unpretentious operation, therefore, the repair of the VAZ-2105 box is not required very often, it is able to work out a significant resource without any special intervention and with minimal maintenance. Another positive quality is the maintainability and availability of spare parts and repair kits, so the 2105 gearbox can be repaired even in a garage with a basic set of tools.
But first, you should consider the maintenance that needs to be done with this node. It is just one thing - checking the level of the lubricant and, if necessary, adding it to the required level.
A manual transmission is not in itself demanding, therefore the lubricant used in it performs only one function - it lubricates the component parts of the unit. Therefore, the oil change in the box must be carried out every 60 thousand kilometers.
Before servicing the gearbox, you should know what kind of oil to fill in the VAZ-2105 box. The transmission of this car requires a gear oil with an API quality level of GL-5 or higher and a viscosity of 75W-90 or 85W-90 according to SAE classification. The volume of oil in the gearbox is 1.35 liters. - more details about transmission oil.
It is not difficult to check the oil in the box, but for this the car should be placed on a viewing hole or overpass.
On the left side of the gearbox housing (in the direction of the car), we find the control filler plug (located just above the bottom cover of the box);
Remove the dirt around the cork with a rag;
Unscrew the plug with a wrench of the required size;
You can find out the level using a small mirror and a flashlight, a screwdriver or even your finger, in general, which is convenient. A normal lubricant level is considered if oil reaches the bottom edge of the hole;
If the oil is less than the level, we bring it to normal using a technical syringe (as soon as the oil begins to flow out of the hole, we twist the plug);
Checking and adding lubricant in the gearbox should be "cold". If de maintenance is carried out immediately after the trip, it is necessary to give time (10-15 minutes) for the oil to completely drain, otherwise the level will be incorrect when checking.
If it's time to change the oil, then first drain the used lubricant - clean the bottom cover from dirt, substitute a plastic container and unscrew the drain plug.
Then we wait until the oil is completely drained and tighten the plug.
And then everything is done in the same way as when checking and replenishing the level, only the required amount of oil has to be pumped into the box with a syringe.
After replacement, you should not immediately dispose of the waste; it is better to check it before that. To do this, take a magnet, tie a thread and lower it into a container with old oil. Next, you should move the magnet along the bottom. Then we take it out and examine it.If a large amount of metal shavings are found on the magnet, this may indicate the appearance of intense wear, and in this case, the gearbox bulkhead and the troubleshooting of the component parts will not be superfluous, since it will help identify and eliminate the malfunction at an early stage.
Now let's go through the main malfunctions that can occur with the gearbox. There are not many of them, but the elimination of the majority is carried out at the checkpoint removed from the car.
So, the main faults of the VAZ-2105 gearbox are:
Increased noise during the operation of the checkpoint (at a certain speed or at all);
Difficult transition to another speed;
Fuzzy switching on, knocking out speed;
Lubricant leaks;
In turn, each malfunction can give several reasons.
The noise of the VAZ-2105 gearbox can occur due to bearing wear, wear of gear teeth and gear wheels, as well as synchronizers, axial displacement of shafts relative to each other.
With such a problem, you will definitely need to remove the box from the car, since there is no other way to repair it. Note that it is precisely the elimination of noise that is one of the most difficult to perform operations, since a complete disassembly and overhaul of the gearbox with the replacement of worn-out elements is required.
In addition to the standard set of keys and screwdrivers, you will additionally need a universal puller. Next, we will consider how the complete disassembly of the VAZ-2105 5-speed gearbox is carried out.
So, all work is done on the removed checkpoint:
Well, then the identification of the constituent elements is already carried out, the worn out and damaged units are replaced and assembled.
Note that the indicated disassembly scheme is general and does not cover such nuances as the removal of retaining rings, sealing washers, engravers and other small elements.
Now let's briefly go over other faults. Difficult gear shifting is next.
Wear of the switching mechanism or its deformation (wings);
Wear, the appearance of burrs on the gear shift axles or on their seats, jamming of crackers;
Damage or wear of the splines of the sliding sleeves of the synchronizers;
Damage and bending of the shift forks;
In the first case, to restore operability, it is not even necessary to remove the box from the car, since the replacement of the VAZ-2105 gearbox backstage is possible without dismantling the transmission unit.
To do this, it is enough to remove the lever, boot, plastic protective strip in order to provide access to the fasteners of the switching mechanism, which must be unscrewed in order to remove the entire mechanism. And then it is already being replaced or repaired.
Important! In a 4-speed gearbox, a recoil spring is attached to the stem from the inside of the crankcase, which ensures a constant position of the lever opposite to the 3rd-4th gear and prevents its vibration. Therefore, when removing the mechanism, first raise it slightly, and then pry the spring with a steel wire hook, remove it from the rod eyelet and hold it in a slightly taut position so that it does not fall into the crankcase. Before installing the new stage, we hook the spring with the same hook and put everything in place.
As for other breakdowns, due to which the speeds turn on poorly, you will have to remove the gearbox, disassemble it, identify the worn or damaged element and replace it.
Fuzzy switching on or knocking out speed occurs due to:
Wear of the retainer holes in the axis, damage to its springs;
Wear of the locking rings of synchronizers, damage to its springs or wear of the teeth;
In this case, it will not be possible to eliminate the malfunction without removing the gearbox. But, it is not always necessary to completely disassemble it. For example, if 4th gear flies out, you should immediately check the condition of the spring and the axle lock of this speed. It is with checking the clamps that the search should begin. And then, disassembling the box, we identify the true cause and eliminate it.
The last common cause is a lubricant leak. This can happen through unsecured plugs, damaged bottom cover gasket. But most often it is the input shaft oil seal that leaks.
In the first case, the problem can be eliminated simply by pulling the plugs or replacing the gasket. And for this you do not need to dismantle the checkpoint from the car. But in the case of a leak in the input shaft seal, the box will have to be removed, but you will not need to disassemble it to replace the damaged rubber element as a whole.
Replacing the gearbox oil seal, if it concerns the input shaft, is not difficult. It is located in the clutch housing, but on the inside, that is, it will have to be disconnected from the gearbox housing. And then the damaged oil seal is removed and a new one is installed.
Then everything is put back together. In the case of damage to other oil seals, the gearbox is disassembled and the damaged element is replaced.
Finally, we will consider such a question as altering the gearbox from 4 degrees to 5 VAZ-2105. Such a refinement is quite possible, since the 4-speed version was the basis for it when creating the five-stage. But at the same time it will be necessary to replace part of the constituent components taken from the 5-speed gearbox, namely:
Back cover;
Intermediate shaft (with a hole for fastening the 5th gear block);
Output shaft (slightly shorter in the 5-speed version);
5th speed gear block;
Axle of the intermediate reverse gear;
A set of rods with a fork for engaging 5th and reverse gears;
Gear shifting mechanism (rocker);
Reversing light switch;
Power unit mounting bracket;
Further, it is enough to completely disassemble the 4-speed gearbox, and assemble it as a 5-speed gearbox using the specified components.
VIDEO
Before removing the rear cover, set the gear lever to neutral, unscrew the nuts securing the gear selection mechanism and remove the gear lever assembly with the mechanism. Then detach the nuts securing the rear cover and remove it. One of the nuts securing the cover is unscrewed from the inside of the gearbox housing of the fret classic with the bottom cover removed. When removing the rear cover, it must be fed not only back, but also rotated to prevent it from catching on the reverse gear and fifth gear block.
Rear of the five-speed gearbox
1 - secondary shaft
2 - a driven reverse gear
3 - the hub of the V-gear synchronizer clutch
4 - synchronizer clutch
5 - washer
6 - gear shift lever
7 - the blocking ring of the synchronizer
8 - gear wheel and ring gear of the V gear synchronizer
9 - slinger washer
10 - sleeve of the gear wheel of the V transfer
11 - the leading gear wheel of the speedometer drive
12 - rear bearing of a secondary shaft
13 - stuffing box
14 - flexible coupling flange
15 - nut
16 - centering ring seal
17 - centering ring
18 - retaining ring
19 - lock washer
20 - a driven gear wheel of a drive of a speedometer
21 - bearing of the gear block
22 - the bolt of the gear block
23 - block of gears of V transfer and reverse
24 - the rear cover of the transmission
25 - intermediate shaft
Unscrewing the bolts of the gear block and the fork for engaging the 5th gear and reverse
1 - intermediate reverse gear
2 - the bolt of the gear block
3 - fork rod
4 - a bolt of fastening of a fork
5 - retainer cover
Removing the sleeve of the gear wheel of the V transfer
1 - bushing
Removing the rod of the V gear and reverse gear fork and the gear block
1 - rod of the fork for engaging the V gear and reverse
2 - the fork of inclusion of the V transfer and reverse
3 - distance sleeve
4 - a block of gears
After removing the inner ring of the rear bearing 12 and the driving gear of the speedometer drive from the secondary shaft, loosen the bolts of the cover 5 of the retainers and unscrew the bolts 2 and 4 of the gear block and the fork for engaging the fifth gear and reverse. Remove the oil deflector washer 9, and then the sleeve 1 of the fifth gear and remove the rod 1 from the fork 2. In this case, the distance sleeve 3 is removed from the rod 3. Then remove the gear block 4 from the slot of the intermediate shaft.
Removing the intermediate reverse gear, V gear assembly with a synchronizer and a fork
1 - intermediate reverse gear
2 - V transfer clutch
3 - a gear wheel of the V transfer, assembled with a synchronizer
4 - the fork of inclusion of the V transfer and reverse
Removing the driven reverse gear and the hub of the V-gear synchronizer clutch
1 - intermediate shaft
2 - a driven reverse gear
3 - the axis of the intermediate reverse gear
4 - the hub of the V-gear synchronizer clutch
5 - secondary shaft
6 - rod of the plug of inclusion of the 1st and 2nd gears
7 - rod of the plug of inclusion of III and IV gears
At the same time, dismount the intermediate gear 1 of the reverse gear from the axle, the gear 3 assembled with the clutch 2 and the fork 4 from the output shaft.
Remove the washer 5 from the output shaft, and then, using curly mandrels such as screwdrivers, remove the 5th gear synchronizer hub 4 and the reverse driven gear 2 from the key.
Installing the piston pin on the A.60325 tool for pressing it into the piston and the connecting rod head
1 - device roller
2 - piston pin
3 - guide
4 - stop screw
Since 1992, washer 5 on the secondary shaft was canceled and the configuration of the secondary shaft 1 and the hub 3 of the synchronizer coupling of the V gear was changed (on the secondary shaft, the diameter for the hub was 28 mm, became 25 mm; the width of the seat of the hub became larger by the thickness of the washer and the bore diameter was reduced from 28 mm to 25 mm). The specified parts are not interchangeable with previously produced ones, therefore, when repairing a gearbox of an “old” design, observe the following rules:
- if the washer 5 is changed, then the output shaft and the hub are set to the “old” design;
- if instead of the secondary shaft or the hub, parts of the same name of a “new” design are installed, then they must be changed in full, that is, when replacing the hub, the secondary shaft also changes and vice versa. In this case, the washer is not installed.
Carry out further disassembly of the gearbox in the order described for the four-speed gearbox.
If necessary, disassemble the lever and the gear selection mechanism, for which:
Gear selection mechanism
1 - washer of the guide plate
2 - guide plate
3 - gear lever housing
4 - ball joint
5 - spherical washer
6 - spring
7 - thrust ring
8 - retaining ring
9 - gear shift lever
10 - protective cover
11 - flange
12 - reverse blocking plate
13 - spring
14 - guide bar
15 - sealing ring
A - risk
- remove the protective cover 10, the locking and thrust rings 8 and 7, the spring and the spherical washer 5 from the gear lever of the VAZ 2105;
- visually mark the location of the parts relative to the marks A, marked on the guide plate, in order to connect the parts in the same position during assembly;
- having unscrewed the nuts from the mounting bolts, separate the parts of the gear selection mechanism and remove the lever 9, its ball joint 4 and rubber sealing rings 15.
Video (click to play).
The assembly of the fifth stage, reverse gear and gear selection mechanism is carried out in the reverse sequence to disassembly, taking into account the following:
- fasten the axle of the intermediate reverse gear wheel before installing the shafts in the gearbox housing of the VAZ 2107 with a torque of 78 Nm (8 kgfm);
- before installing the fifth gear and reverse gear fork rod into the crankcase, install the spacer sleeve on it;
- Press the inner ring of the bearing onto the fifth gear and reverse gear block, and the outer ring into the socket of the rear cover;
- press the rear bearing of the output shaft onto the shaft to facilitate the installation of the rear cover;
- install intermediate gear 1 of reverse, gear 3 and fork 4 at the same time;
- install the bolt 4 on the TB-1324 thread sealant;
- when assembling the gear shift lever of the VAZ 2104, coat the ball head or the sphere of the ball joint with LSC-15 grease;
- tighten the gear block mounting bolt to 78 Nm (8 kgfm);
- before installing flange 14 on the secondary shaft, apply UG-9 sealant to the splines
